of 2018 The most exciting wines of 2018 ’s experts from around the world named the bottles under £60 that impressed them most this year. After tasting a selection of the nominated wines, our judges compiled the ultimate top 50, across all styles. Tina Gellie reports

Unlike other end-of-year summations Australia and Spain each have six listings in that compile the highest-scoring or ‘best-ever’ our top 50, with France and South Africa close bottles, Decanter’s annual round-up of Most behind, and amazing entries from Greece, Exciting Wines of the Year is exactly that: Georgia, Hungary, England and Canada among wines that really made an impression for their others. And while classic varieties led the way ability to stand out from the crowd, whether – dominant in nine wines and that be through quirkiness or classicism. in five – we were charmed by more ‘It was a deliciously diverse array of wines unusual grapes, including Garganega, Oz Clarke – all different, all memorable,’ enthused Sarah Grecanico, Hárslevelú´, Kisi, , is an award-winning Jane Evans MW. Oz Clarke was equally ‘thrilled’ Schioppettino and Xinomavro. communicator. His latest by the line-up. ‘Each glass forced me to realign For Evans, welcome surprises were from book is Red & White my tastebuds and refocus my expectations. So Greece and Georgia, plus the ‘glamorous’ (Little Brown, £12.99) many different grape varieties, countries and Douro sparkling ‘and the fact I put a and Gusbourne Vértice, Pinot House of Arras, Ferrari, Perlé Brokenwood, styles. This is what our Brave New World a Pinot Gris in my top 10’. She also highlighted Estate, Blanc de Noir Bruto, Grand Zero, Cuvée Indigo of Wine is all about!’ the South African Albariño (‘convincing, for a Blancs, Brut, Douro, Portugal Brut, Tasmania, Zero 11, Trento, Chardonnay, As in the previous two years, we asked lover’), Vasse Felix’s Heytesbury , England 2007 94 OC 92 SJE Australia 2007 93 Trentino-Alto Beechworth, Decanter World Wine Awards Regional Chairs, Chardonnay (repeating the success of the 2014 2013 94 Oz Clarke 95 96 TG 94 OC 95 SJE 90 TG 92 Adige, Italy 2011 Victoria, key contributors and Decanter staff to name vintage in last year’s line-up) and stand-out Sarah Jane Evans 95 £52.56 Portugal £35.65-£50.40 Accolade 93 OC 95 SJE 91 TG 93 Australia 2016 the wines they most enjoyed over the past 12 Pinot Noirs and Garnachas. Tina Gellie 92 OC Very full, leesy style, Wines, Bottle Apostle, Exel, £43.70 Winemust 95 OC 95 SJE 95 TG 95 months – each wine’s ‘champion’ is included Clarke’s honourable mentions went to the Sarah Jane Evans MW £39.99-£50.50 Exel, almost oaky, but still Highbury Vintners, Liberty OC Fresh; proudly dry, £35 Exel at the end of the tasting notes. Even with a , a ‘remarkable’ Bierzo, ‘stunning’ is DWWA co-chair, past Gusbourne Estate, Harvey packed with flavour. For Wines, Oz Wines, The almost austere, but it OC Classic, struck- price limit of £60, there are wines for every South African Cinsault and an ‘astonishing’ chair of the Institute of Nichols, Highbury Vintners, me it is just probably a Australian Cellar, The Old works because the wine match Chardonnay, but budget: 19 at £25 or under, from just £10.40. Canadian . ‘But I’m going back Masters of Wine and an Jeroboams, Museum little heavy and strong Bridge Wine Shop has a deep, nutty this has enough fruit The wines were tasted blind, with only the to the Old World for my favourites: Vassaltis’ award-winning writer Wines, Noble Green, on the phenols. OC Classically aged, dry warmth and good lean, character to match the grape variety and vintage disclosed. They were brilliant Assyrtiko from Santorini; a Vinho Tanners Wines, The Oxford SJE Complex aromatics. chocolate and a hint of but chewy apple fruit. smoke and create a scored out of 100 and also rated for their Verde I’d like to drink all summer, from Wine Co, WoodWinters Finely smoky and cocoa powder mixed SJE Plenty of fizz delightful nutty, complexity, harmony and wow factor, with Soalheiro; and the crunchy red Corbières from OC Full and dry, with a toasty, with developing with hazelnuts. Lovely if retained in glass. Bright balanced style. value being taken into consideration. We Domaine Le Champ des Murailles, the kind of telling streak of mineral maturity adding you like your fizz aged. smoky aroma, lightly SJE Struck-match is the particularly wanted to reward wines with real red I long for in winter.’ stoniness softened by complexity to the SJE Subdued aromas, toasty. The palate key aroma here. The individuality and a great drinking experience. As always, ‘exciting’ can mean different creamy hazelnut which palate. Fine backbone with light herbs. Bright arrives with a buzz of lime and pomelo palate things to different people, but we hope you will increase with age. of acidity, with delicate and fresh in the mouth, sparkles; vivid and racy. develops into a smoky Diversity and intrigue recognise some old favourites and enjoy Tina Gellie SJE Clean, punchy mocha, roasted fruits. but with a defined Creamy richness, but richness, and finishes A remarkable 88% of entries scored an average making a few new discoveries among the is Decanter’s associate delivery, with vibrant Long, considered finish. mushroom undertone. always fresh. An almost with a punch of of 90 points or above (those rated 92 points or following 50 wines. editor, and has worked and thrilling freshness. TG Classic spiced TG Showing its age but metallic, salty sign-off. freshness. Impressive. more are listed here) displaying an impressive in the wine industry for Finely balanced. The honeyed apples and still very classy. Creamy, TG Lovely fine mousse TG Full-frontal aromas, array of styles, with 17 countries and 37 What wines have excited you over the past year? more than 15 years finish is tight, but toasty digestive biscuit yeasty aromas and soft, and a firm, taut, bone- in that lean Australian different grapes represented. Let us know at [email protected] promises well with time. aromas and flavours on buttery red apples on dry palate of tart green Chardonnay style. TG Ripe mango, yellow a creamy palate – this the palate – earthy but apples, a herbal anise Toasty, nutty joins Thank you to the following experts who contributed their recommendations: Jane Anson, Tony Aspler, Tim Atkin MW, Pedro Ballesteros Torres MW, Paolo Basso, apple and floral notes. is very pretty. Great still fresh. Lovely to edge and a steely tang. punchy flavours of Richard Baudains, Jim Budd, James Button, Bob Campbell MW, Tom Cannavan, Ferran Centelles, Ch’ng Poh Tiong, Alistair Cooper MW, Natalie Earl, Zingy and fresh, with acidity and a long, enjoy now but will keep. The acidity is piercing nougat, spiced apples Sarah Jane Evans MW, Simon Field MW, Elizabeth Gabay MW, Michael Garner, Tina Gellie, Rosemary George MW, Rebecca Gibb MW, Caroline Gilby MW, an elegant finish. toasted brioche finish. Drink 2019-2022 – this will age well. and sharp grapefruit. Richard Hemming MW, Michael Hill Smith MW, Huon Hooke, Andy Howard MW, Justin Howard-Sneyd MW, Susan Hulme MW, Jane Hunt, Andrew Jefford, Drink 2019-2024 Drink 2019-2023 Alc 12.5% Drink 2019-2024 Drink 2018-2024 Roger Jones, Richard Juhlin, Panos Kakaviatos, Anne Krebiehl MW, James Lawther MW, Paz Levinson, David Longfield, Nico Manessis, Caro Maurer MW, Richard Mayson, Elin McCoy, Fiona McDonald, Chris Mercer, Thierry Meyer, Michaela Morris, Peter Richards MW, Anthony Rose, Ronan Sayburn MS, Julie Sheppard, Alcohol 12% Nominated Alc 12.5% Julie Sheppard Alc 12.5% Alc 12.5% Joanna Simon, Stephen Skelton MW, Walter Speller, Steven Spurrier, John Stimpfig, Patricio Tapia, Matt Walls, Amy Wislocki, Simon Woolf, Simon Wright by Stephen Skelton MW Tom Cannavan Anne Krebiehl MW Roger Jones ➢

18 | January 2019 • DECANTER DECANTER • January 2019 | 19 wines of 2018

DeMorgenzon, Vassaltis, Ata Rangi, Bosman, Fides Haywire, Free Vasse Felix, Errazuriz, Famille Perrin, Gini, Contrada Kikelet, Kassai Reserve Assyrtiko, Lismore Blanc, Form Sauvignon Heytesbury Las Pizarras Château de Salvarenza Soave Single-Vineyard , Santorini, Pinot Gris, Wellington, Blanc, Okanagan Chardonnay, Chardonnay, Beaucastel, Classico, Veneto, Hárslevel˝u, Stellenbosch, Aegean Islands, Martinborough, South Africa Valley, British Margaret River, Aconcagua Châteauneuf-du- Italy 2014 Tokaj, Hungary South Africa Greece 2016 Wairarapa, New 2016 94 OC 96 SJE Columbia, Western Costa, Chile Pape, Rhône, 93 OC 92 SJE 95 TG 92 2015 93 OC 94 SJE 91 2017 95 OC 95 SJE 95 OC 96 SJE 95 TG 94 Zealand 2017 94 94 TG 92 Canada 2016 94 Australia 2016 2015 93 OC 93 SJE France 2016 £23.40 Justerini & Brooks TG 94 95 TG 95 £25-£31.99 Alliance, OC 94 SJE 94 TG 94 £17.99-£19.99 Bosman OC 96 SJE 92 TG 93 94 OC 93 SJE 96 TG 94 92 TG 94 93 OC 94 SJE 93 TG 92 OC Reasonably bright £18 Wanderlust £28.50-£35 Dunells, Roberson Wine, The Oxford £22.50-£30 Carruthers & Wines, Handford Wines, £38.60-£44 Le Vignoble, £45-£51.40 Christopher £55 Atlas Fine Wine, Farr £48 Jeroboams, Liberty yellow apple and OC Round and soft. Frontier Fine Wines, Harvey Wine Co, Wimbledon Wine Kent, Highbury Vintners, Harvey Nichols Red Squirrel Piper, Fells, Noble Green, Vintners, Goedhuis & Co, Wines, Montrachet Fine golden gage plum fruit, Dusted lightly with Nichols, Martinez Wines, Mr Cellar Liberty Wines, Noel Young, OC Fascinating amber OC A blast of squirted The Australian Cellar Z&B Vintners Wine Merchants, Vinvm now losing a little baking spices and Wheeler Wines, Noel Young, OC Serious, attention- The New Zealand Cellar, wine; rich, chewy, with lemon juice, grapefruit OC Gentle, mellow, OC Pale, green, salty OC Delicious, soft, ripe. freshness but gaining infused with the gentle Seckford Agencies, Slurp seeking wine. Sun- and Vinvm the scent and bitterness pith and greengage nutty and round with a fresh with a delightful Not that aromatic or attractive soft maturity. citrus richness of boiled OC Rich style: oaky, full. wind-blasted fruit; OC Honeysuckle notes; of tamarind and orange skin. Flesh, skin and hint of struck match. yellow peach skin and fruity, but with a warm SJE Alluringly apple on lemons softened with a Nuts, honeysuckle and salty, nutty and rocky full and ripe, with pear pith, and a dusty roast pith; ebullient palate. SJE Beautifully just a little chewiness. nutty core and a streak the nose, with notes of dash of hazelnut cream. syrup. It’s decent now, in a furious embrace. flesh, a little warm dust almond smokiness. SJE Charming, creamy, controlled Chardonnay. SJE Full, broad and of mineral freshness. honey and nutmeg. SJE Ripe, rich, succulent but will be even more SJE Aromatically more and good, savoury, SJE Burnished colour. elderflower florality. The palate is ripe but bursting with flavour. SJE Opulent aromatics Silky entry, luxurious wine. All bruised apple exciting in a few years. than Assyrtiko, nutty creaminess. Tertiary palate of Starts light and fresh, carefully overlaid with A forthright style, with of sweet spice, dried development. Notes of and custard; a fine SJE Aromas of honeyed with its creamy smoky SJE Tempting aromas: roasted and toasted then shows flower fine oak, bright acidity. developing tertiary herbs, wood smoke. pink grapefruit, honeyed blend of ripeness with apples. Palate is ripe notes. Gloriously orange peel, kumquats, flavours, with a tinge of meadow complexity. Gloriously long, juicy characters. Delicate lift Equally plush mouth, lemons – a reminder refreshing acidity. and buttery with a explosive palate, with honey. The palate offers bitter orange zest. Plenty of energy. finish. Notes of lime and of freshness at the end. lifted by bright acidity, that Garganega is well TG Complex mineral, lovely edge of lemon ripe lemons, saltiness the same intensity, Long, Intense finish. TG Cloudy in the glass pineapple highlight. TG Evolving, savoury and wrapped in a coat worth revisiting. spiced yellow apple, zest, plus nutmeg and and full-bodied stone developing a silky TG Clearly an orange but not on the nose: TG A serious, style, boasting flinty of cream and spices. TG Honeyed, ripe and quince and rich honey cinnamon spice. fruit and greengages. richness. Smooth finish. wine on the nose: bright, fresh aromas. Burgundian-style minerality and bold, TG Weighty, peachy friendly nose leads to a characters. Elegant, TG Full-bodied enough TG Wow! Expressive, TG Musky apricot nose toasted nuts, spice and Vibrant palate has Chardonnay with pure apple flavours. and rounded palate – creamy palate of apple savoury and beautifully to carry its alcohol and almost smoky petrol leads to a full, soft burnt orange peel. mouthwatering acidity, toasty, nutty oak that’s Excellent, fresh acidity very Rhône-like, full of and peach, with a spicy made: lemon freshness oak. Apple crumble, nose leads to a lean, jasmine and peach Lean, firm and drying with mandarin, mango balanced by lemon with gentle and nutty, ripe, apricot fruit edge and just enough and a toasty length. lemon and stone fruit savoury palate with palate. The racy acidity on the palate. An and hay. Unlike any acidity and breezy, ripe well-balanced oak. I’d and spicy oak. Plush, acidity. Nice for its age Drink 2019-2022 on the nose and palate. complex oxidative and nutty length makes individual style that Sauvignon Blanc yellow apples. Long and happily have supple and creamy with but one to drink now. Alc 12% Characterful. notes. A diva of a wine. this a lovely food wine. will divide opinion. you’ve tried before. complex; will age well. another glass. a long, oily finish. Drink 2019-2020 Caroline Gilby MW ➢ Drink 2019-2023 Drink 2019-2022 Drink 2019-2023 Drink 2019-2023 Drink 2019-2022 Drink 2019-2023 Drink 2019-2022 Drink 2019-2023 Alc 13% Alc 14.5% Alc 13.5% Alc 13.5% Alc 14% Alc 13% Tina Gellie & Alc 13% Alc 13% Alc 14% Michael Garner Simon Field MW Jim Budd Roger Jones Sarah Jane Evans MW Joanna Simon Michael Hill Smith MW Alistair Cooper MW Matt Walls

20 | January 2019 • DECANTER DECANTER • January 2019 | 21 wines of 2018

Kusuda, Riesling, Newton Johnson, Orgo, Rkatsiteli, Santa Maria Soalheiro, Weingut Arnot-Roberts, Domaine Sandhi, Vita Vinea, Kisi Martinborough, Albariño, Upper Kakheti, Georgia La Nave, Primeiras Bründlmayer, Trout Gulch William Fèvre, Rita’s Crown Amber Dry, Wairarapa, New Hemel-en-Aarde 2016 93 OC 95 SJE Millesumare Vinhas Terrassen Vineyard 1er Cru Montée Chardonnay, Kakheti, Georgia Zealand 2015 Valley, Walker 92 TG 92 Bianco, Sicily, Alvarinho, Grüner Veltliner, Chardonnay, de Tonnerre, Santa Rita Hills, 2016 92 OC 94 SJE 93 OC 93 SJE 92 TG 94 Bay, South Africa £22-£23.40 Clark Foyster Italy 2016 Vinho Verde, Kamptal, Santa Cruz Chablis, California, US 90 TG 92 £35-£38.99 Berry Bros & 2015 93 OC 91 SJE 95 Wines, Hedonism, 93 OC 93 SJE 92 TG 93 Monção Niederösterreich, Mountains, Burgundy, 2014 92 OC 94 SJE 91 £22 Clark Foyster, Oddbins Rudd, Handford Wines, The TG 94 Highbury Vintners, £39.99 Hallgarten e Melgaço, Austria 2016 California, US France 2016 TG 91 OC Pretty full style; New Zealand Cellar £17.95-£19.99 Dreyfus Roberson Wine OC Haughty, solitary Portugal 2017 93 OC 91 SJE 94 TG 92 2016 92 OC 93 SJE 92 OC 92 SJE 92 TG 92 £45 Roberson Wine dusty, clay-scented, OC Citrus, lime zest, Ashby, Handford Wines OC Bitter stone notes; kind of flavours – with 93 OC 96 SJE 93 TG 91 £21.75 Berry Bros & Rudd, 92 TG 91 £43.99 Albany Vintners, OC Round, soft and with a little pale orange almost petrol but with OC Good, full, round. dry and chewy, with an intriguing scent of £27 Highbury Vintners, Fields Morris & Verdin £49 Roberson Wine Berry Bros & Rudd, BI, mellow with a charming and apricot fruit, dried very good, soft texture, Lees-aged and nutty tamarind, peach skin barely ripe lemon and Raymond Reynolds, OC Quite lean, showing OC Full, rich, golden Clarion, Davy’s, Private gentle maturity of out but there, to soften a touch of leather and with ripe fruit and a hint and apple pips. moist blossom rubbed The Good Wine Shop lemon and apple peel style. A big, salty, nutty, Cellar, The Wine Society cream and roasted nuts, the bitter bite. long, lingering, lime of cocoa. Quite rich. SJE Sumptuous auburn on pale linen. Unusual, OC Irresistibly aromatic; fruit, with a fresh flash mineral wine, streaked OC Pale, lean and very freshened up with SJE Brilliant gold with freshness. SJE Subdued on the colour. Subtle aromas of fascinating. curls of lemon zest of green leaf. with lemon zest. Still clear-eyed. Bone-dry lemon zest acidity. yellow lights. Delicately SJE Developing the nose. The palate is roasted fruits and nuts. SJE A touch reduced twined with pear and SJE Slight hint of white young and needs two to with lean lemon fruit, a SJE Lean, clean wine. smoky aromatics. A lovely signs of Riesling memorable, with a fine The palate is driven by on the nose. A smoky white peach fruit. pepper on the nose. three years to develop. hint of blossom and a Smoky reductive notes rasp of tannin gives age on the nose. By blend suggesting sea, texture rather than fruit, edge takes down the Utterly drinkable. From this subdued SJE Roasted peaches flash of struck match. lead to a clean, linear a drying note. The contrast, the palate stones and sunshine. with a slight rasp of overt fruit. Stony SJE Rose petals and beginning blossoms a on the nose; brisk and SJE Singing purity – a palate. Fruit is subdued; freshness lifts the remains youthful. The extra age brings tannin. Notes of mint freshness. Individual, violet aromas. Typically bold and generous punchy in the mouth. Chardonnay that’s all the palate is developing weight of tannin, and Punchy acidity, stony fine complexity, and a and eucalyptus. with a slow burn to Albariño with a balance wine: golden peaches, The palate develops about freshness. Some notes of stony purity. offers light orange impression and a long, bright, fresh ending. TG Amber hue. Mellow, develop its full flavour. of grapefruit and ripe lemons, cream richly and is balanced tropical fruit on the Elegant and refined. notes. Long spicy finish. lean finish. TG Nutty, yeasty and roasted pear and fresh An elegant finish. creamy richness. Long, and a delicate texture. by a note of bitterness, nose and palate. Plenty TG Quite smoky and TG Burnished gold TG Gorgeous, waxy savoury nose. Flavours green apple aromas. TG Definitely more intense finish. Bring on Impressive Grüner. Long, persistent finish. of youthful acidity to reduced on the nose. colour. Aromas and lime and slatey mineral of cooked yellow fruit, More nutty and woody mineral and smoky the razor clams! TG Classic, stone fruit TG Very overt and give energy to the style. The palate is grippy, flavours of smoky aromas. Showing some bright acidity and a on the textured, grippy than fruity, with lots of TG Classic Albariño: sea and white pepper on a concentrated stone TG Bright, light and lean and tight with toasted nuts and tart petrolly signs of age, but saline touch. Complex, palate. Contemplative oyster shell notes. Very spray plus tropical and weighty, textured fruit – almost extracted. fresh in a Chablis style. savoury mineral notes greengages on a grippy still vibrant, pure and rounded mouthfeel and food-friendly, but appealing, fresh and exotic fruit salad notes. palate. Fresh lemon Youthful, tight palate Nutty creaminess and and hints of confit palate with dusty youthful. Super vitality, with a lovely creamy not for everyone. food-friendly with Still young, but a great acidity. Well made with sharp acidity. This tart green apple with peach. A very New tannins and savoury, freshness and length. length. Very tasty. Drink 2019-2024 excellent acid balance. food wine. and drinking nicely. needs time. brisk lemon acidity. World Chardonnay. fresh acidity. Intriguing. Drink 2019-2024 Drink 2019-2021 Alc 13% Drink 2019-2021 Drink 2019-2021 Drink 2019-2022 Drink 2020-2023 Drink 2019-2023 Drink 2019-2021 Drink 2019-2022 Alc 12.5% Alc 13.5% Andrew Jefford Alc 13% Alc 13% Alc 12.5% Alc 13% Alc 13% Alc 13% Alc 13% Elin McCoy Fiona McDonald Julie Sheppard Richard Mayson Jane Anson Ronan Sayburn MS Rosemary George MW Chris Mercer Anthony Rose ➢

22 | January 2019 • DECANTER DECANTER • January 2019 | 23 wines of 2018

Weingut Bodegas Roda, Comando G, Domaine Le Van Knewitz, Riesling Roda I Reserva, Uvas Felices, Champ des Loggerenberg, Trocken, , Spain 2011 El Hombre Bala, Murailles, Grande Geronimo, Rheinhessen, 95 OC 95 SJE 95 TG 95 Madrid, Spain Cuvée, Corbières- Stellenbosch, Germany 2017 £40.50-£56 Cru, Exel, 2015 95 OC 95 SJE Boutenac, South Africa 92 OC 92 SJE 92 TG 92 Farr Vintners, Hedonism, 96 TG 95 Languedoc, 2016 95 OC 95 SJE £10.40 Howard Ripley Le Vignoble, Majestic, £21.59-£23.49 Amps, France 2016 93 TG 96 OC Full, direct orange Mentzendorff D Byrne & Co, Highbury 95 OC 96 SJE 95 TG 95 £25-£26 Define Food & zest and soft apple OC Good: full, ripe and Vintners, Hoults, Kwoff, £19.95 Davy’s Wine, Handford, The Solent core, with a little leather serenely balanced, the Noel Young, OC Deep, full, dense Cellar, Vin Cognito and mineral stones. tannin nips just enough OC Lovely round and and rich, with excellent OC Full style, with SJE Lively aromatics to enliven the rich mellow style. Ripe red cranberry, loganberry mature, rich red fruit. with honey and fennel. strawberry and fruit with sultry cake and red plum, plus a Scented strawberry and Super-clean and vivid cranberry fruit, with and kitchen spice, plus dash of bitter chocolate redcurrant notes with a Riesling. Delicate in hints of spicy scent. a nip of ripe tannin and herbs. flutter of icing sugar weight, but punchy SJE Textbook: fleshy and apple pip acid. SJE Dark chocolate and and a suggestion of and bold nevertheless. blend, with SJE Just right! Silky, red fruits are often a herbs and lemon zest. It would be cradle- Graciano ensuring the generous Garnacha good combination – SJE Lovely to have snatching to drink now. freshness. Aged in oak, lifted by a note of the and so it proves here. Cinsault in this line-up! TG The aromas seem now reaching a fine zippy, blueberry fruit The textured tannins Great to see it restored quite simple – peaches, equilibrium with a of . Complex, add real interest. to the Pantheon of marshmallows and delicate grain of tannin. vibrant and individual. TG Bold, rich and grape varieties. But this honeysuckle – but the TG Classic Rioja: TG Delicious easy- chocolatey palate is a bit too herbaceous palate is more austere: coconut and vanilla oak drinking red made with showing creamy, jammy for a top score. tight and fresh with spice deftly balances a light touch. Juicy and black fruits and herbal TG This tastes like the citrus blossom, stone savoury, leathery red ripe stewed red berries hints of rosemary. Cape: fynbos herbs and fruit and apple. berry fruit. Drinking and sweet spices on a Youthful and not overly crunchy, vital red and Youthful, lively acidity. well now but will age. supple palate enlivened complex but very tasty. blue berries, made in a Drink 2020-2024 Drink 2019-2031 by fresh, crunchy acidity. Drink 2019-2025 pure, hands-off style. Alc 12.5% Alc 14.5% Drink 2019-2024 Alc 14.5% Drink 2019-2024 Anne Krebiehl MW Joanna Simon Alc 14.5% James Lawther MW Alc 13% James Button Roger Jones ➢

DECANTER • January 2019 | 25 wines of 2018 wines of 2018

David Franz, Raúl Pérez, Blank Canvas, Cristom, Mt Frederick Matías Riccitelli, Thymiopoulos Viñedos de Burn Cottage, Cara Sur, Grenache Noir, Ultreia, Bierzo, Pinot Noir, Jefferson Cuvée Stevenson, Dry The Party, Uco Vineyards, Alcohuaz, Pinot Noir, Tinto, Valle de Barossa Valley, Spain 2015 Marlborough, Pinot Noir, Red, Barossa Valley, Mendoza, Jeunes Vignes Tococo , Central Otago, Calingasta, San South Australia 94 OC 95 SJE 93 TG 93 New Zealand Willamette Valley, South Argentina 2017 de Xinomavro, Elqui Valley, New Zealand Juan, Argentina 2016 94 OC 94 £39 Fine & Rare 2015 93 OC 92 Valley, Oregon, Australia 2019 93 OC 93 SJE 93 TG 93 Naoussa, Chile 2015 2015 92 OC 95 2017 92 OC 94 SJE 93 TG 94 OC Good and quirky SJE 94 TG 94 US 2015 93 OC 92 93 OC 95 SJE 90 TG 92 £14 Marks & Spencer Macedonia, 93 OC 91 SJE 94 TG 92 SJE 90 TG 91 SJE 92 TG 90 £25 The Knotted Vine red. Soft strawberry £27.99 Highbury Vintners, SJE 91 TG 94 £24 Bottle Apostle, OC Big and toasted; rich Greece 2016 £29.95 Wine Direct £49.99-£52 Carruthers & £28.50 Christopher Piper, OC Light but very tasty. and raspberry fruit, Liberty Wines, Noel Young, £31.10 Stannary St Wine Co Clapton Craft, The and ripe. Deep, sweet 93 OC 93 SJE 93 TG 92 OC Very pleasant style. Kent, Hedonism, Highbury Field & Fawcett, Grapevine Scented with rosemary shot through with sap, Rude Wines, Vinvm OC Ripe and soft, with Australian Cellar cherry and plum fruit £10.95-£17 Booths, Quite soft, with mild Vintners, Liberty Wines, Rockliffe Hall, The Wine Co and mint, and with some crunchy leafiness OC Full and ripe style. even a hint of raisin, but OC Lovely, bright and with some scent. Fat Roberson Wine, The Wine redcurrant acid, good The New Zealand Cellar, OC Ripe, juicy and delightfully syrupy and grippy tannin. The fruit is a little this works well, as the lively raspberry and and toasty but good. Society, Theatre of Wine raspberry fruit and a The Wine Reserve, Vinvm sweet, with sour strawberry and red SJE Light in colour and skins-dominant and richness is nicely ripe apple, with lemon SJE Aromatically it’s OC Delightful red, veneer of toast. OC Delightful floral raspberry and raw plum fruit on the palate. on palate, with eddying squeezed. Chewy oak. balanced and the zest and a flicker of roasted Victoria plums bursting with blackberry SJE Floral, aromatic, nose, tempered by cherry notes. High acid SJE Super-pale, orange flavours of redcurrants SJE The very model of a oak is mellow. herbs. Good acidity. in vanilla syrup. The and stewed black plum sumptuous Syrah; sappy green notes. but joyful, appetising tinted, strawberry hints, and berries, wrapped in modern Pinot: ethereal SJE Redcurrants and SJE Aromatics are palate overflows with fruit, with high plum- nothing too savoury Beautifully balanced red fruit too. and brightly fresh. Very a rasp of tannin. Loosely balance on the nose wood smoke are the jam-packed with ripe flavour too, alive with skin acid. Lively and here. Instead the exotic rosehip and cherry fruit. SJE Plump, with aromas nicely balanced: the knit, without the usual between promise of red profile of this Pinot, fruits, plum conserve, juicy plumpness appetising. charm of the variety SJE Fine, fresh herb of baked fruits, crushed fruit is ripe but not hard hit of acidity, and fruits and fine oak. The giving a brisk edge to fruit jellies. The palate is and a seasoning of spice. SJE Pale in colour, but shines through. The edge to the red fruited raspberries and mocha. overbearingly sweet, with a long finish. palate has a delightfully the finish. Long and less expressive, but has TG Deliciously vibrant overflowing with richness is lifted by the aromas. Palate is full of A vibrant jab of acidity and there’s a savoury TG Appealingly juicy juicy impression, toned supple sign-off. a fine texture of tannin and juicy black fruit flavour. Cherries, fresh line of acidity. Long generous juice, with a leads into flavours of note at the core. and friendly redcurrant down by delicate spice. TG Vibrant but soft to contrast with the pastille notes, with red berries, some and lively finish. bright lively finish. orange peel and lemon TG Light, tight and and raspberry fruit on TG Dense bramble fruit, cherry and cranberry sweet fruit. Long! vanilla sugar. Brambly chocolate and sweet TG Breezy primary red TG A vibrant New World curd. Tannins add savoury red berry fruit the nose and palate. green apple acidity and fruit with gentle oak TG Full-on primary fruit and plush with a good spice. Very appealing. fruit, mineral hints and Pinot Noir with violet savoury complexity. with fresh herbs and A lovely open style, with gentle spice. Unusually spice and savoury, dusty aromas of summer grip of tannins. A very TG Very ripe, dark soft, grassy, floral lift, sweet and ripe TG Stewed red and earthy notes. Quite fine weight and a nice dark and concentrated tannins. Modern and pudding and fruit moreish Malbec. berries on an inky, notes. Not overly cherry and raspberry black fruit with soft high-toned on the grip of dusty tannins. for a Pinot. Dusty quite complex, with pastilles. A touch Drink 2019-2022 chewy, tannic palate. complex but well made, fruit, and bright acidity tannins, but quite palate with firm acidity. Drink 2019-2024 tannins and some nice some balsamic tones. jammy, but crunchy Alc 14% Deep and rich but with with fresh acidity and to balance. Juicy, firm acidity, giving Long and lean. Alc 13.5% freshenss to finish. A unique wine. acidity refreshes. Andy Howard MW a seam of refreshing fine length. forward and rich. a sweet-and-sour Drink 2019-2021 Justin Howard-Sneyd Modern but good. Drink 2019-2023 Really quaffable. acidity to balance. Drink 2019-2024 Drink 2019-2023 character. Alc 13.5% MW Drink 2019-2024 Alc 13.5% Drink 2019-2024 Drink 2019-2022 Alc 13.5% Alc 14% Drink 2019-2022 Simon Wright Alc 13% John Stimpfig Alc 13% Alc 13% Alistair Cooper MW Richard Mayson Alc 13.5% Bob Campbell MW Tina Gellie ➢ Amy Wislocki Paz Levinson ➢

26 | January 2019 • DECANTER DECANTER • January 2019 | 29 wines of 2018

Domaine Domaine Hickinbotham Le Due Terre, Saurwein, Nom l’Aiguelière, Stéphane Ogier, Clarendon Sacrisassi Rosso, Pinot Noir, Côte Rousse, Réserve, Côte- Vineyard, Colli Orientali, Western Cape, Montpeyroux, Rôtie, Rhône, Trueman Friuli-Venezia South Africa Languedoc, France 2012 Cabernet Giulia, Italy 2016 France 2015 92 92 OC 92 SJE 90 TG 93 Sauvignon, 2015 92 OC 93 SJE 92 TG 90 OC 93 SJE 91 TG 92 £55 Montrachet Fine Wine McLaren Vale, 92 OC 94 SJE 91 TG 91 £40-£43 Handford, £19.95 Ten-Acre Wines OC Ripe, rich and quite South Australia £33 Stannary St Wine Co Harvey Nichols, Swig OC Ripe and deep, with soft, with some black 2016 92 OC 92 SJE OC Big and burly, but OC Pale, delicate and blackberry and black cherry and clean leather 92 TG 91 with good black cherry scented with cool earth plum fruit. Good acidity, notes, as well as an £52.60 Stannary St Wine Co fruit, lively cranberry and soft rosehip. but slightly rasping attractive touch of slate. OC Very unusual mix of acid and a savoury, Mellow strawberry fruit tannin that still needs SJE Rich and fleshy marzipan, dry chocolate mineral streak that ends and a dusting of fresh a bit of bottle age. Syrah, still charmingly and blackcurrant. It is with a hint of cherry summer earth. SJE Bursting with aromatic. The palate is quite tannic, but does blossom scent. SJE Very pale Pinot but baked fruits, and beginning to slow down have some violet scent SJE Brisk, firm and just not in the least pale in layered with toasty oak. but retains fine texture and sap to lift it. a little austere, with flavour. Bursting with This is a burly, warm- and freshness. SJE Textbook aromas: all that classic, crisp cherry juice, enriched hearted creature. TG Lifted violet and blackcurrant with a hint crunchiness. Dark plum with cocoa and fines Needs a few years to mulberry fruit – very of green pepper. This is and black cherry fruit herbs. Long, juicy finish. calm down further. pretty. Great vibrancy a modern and glossy dominates on the A very popular style. TG Savoury, opulent for its age thanks to approach to Cab. Fleshy elegant palate. TG Gentle pomegranate nose full of ripe zesty acidity. blackcurrants and a firm TG Appealingly rustic, aromas. Quite lean and damsons and black Drink 2019-2023 undertone of cedar. high-toned red with tart cranberry and sour berries, leading to a Alc 13% TG Quite a jammy Cab, tart, savoury cranberry cherry fruit on the structured, weighty Simon Field MW but still has that cassis and rosehip flavours. palate, with high acidity palate. The oak is and green pepper note, Firm stewed tea tannins and a leafy edge. Firm, evident but classy and plus soft vanilla oak and and crunchy acidity. subtle and savoury. needs time to integrate. grippy tannins. Drink 2019-2023 Drink 2019-2022 Drink 2020-2025 Drink 2019-2023 Alc 14% Alc 13.5% Alc 14% Alc 14% Richard Baudains Chris Mercer ➢ Tom Cannavan Huon Hooke

30 | January 2019 • DECANTER wines of 2018

Demeter Zoltán, Bodegas Lustau, Cockburn’s, Equipo Navazos, Eszter Tokaji, Callejuela, Almacenista Palo Bicentenary La Bota 71 Tokaj, Hungary Amontillado, Cortado, Jerez, Vintage Port, Manzanilla, 2013 96 OC 95 SJE Jerez, Spain NV Spain NV 96 OC 96 Douro, Portugal Jerez, Spain NV 98 TG 94 96 OC 96 SJE 96 TG 95 SJE 96 TG 95 2015 94 OC 94 93 OC 94 SJE 94 TG 92 £48-£49.95 Grapesmith, £15.83-£28 Decantalo, £23.70-£28 Exel, SJE 94 TG 94 £25-£28.49 Alliance, Savage Selection, Uncorked Iberian Drinks Highbury Vintners, Noble £60 Fareham , Dunell’s, Highbury OC Full and soft, with OC Full, rich and Green, WoodWinters Farr Vintners, Hedonism, Vintners, Virgin Wines notes of pineapple, wax wonderfully deep, with OC Deep amber, with a Justerini & Brooks, Waitrose OC A delightful and lemon pith. Rich notes of Brazil nuts, marvellous mix of nuts. OC Deep and rich; balancing act between and syrupy but with caramel and honey, plus Rich but dry, with peach dense and ripe. Tannic the sweet-sour yeast lemon zest and pith almond skin bitterness skins and piercing acid and powerful – but not and dry but rich notes bite. Very good. and probing acidity. lift. Excellent. that scented. of nut husk and apple SJE Golden colour, Excellent. SJE Gloriously roasted, SJE Youthful blast of core. Very good style. gloriously scented and SJE Intensely roasted honeyed aromatics to Port: jostling with SJE Typically nutty sumptuously fruity, aromas; mahogany, match the sumptuously tannins, young fruits, purity – where else but with cling peach toast, vanilla. Palate is golden, glinting colour of spices and warm ? Very intense aromas. Palate is bright exceptionaly long and the wine. Long, savoury alcohol. Plenty to enjoy! palate. Silk entry, notes and equally peachy with vivid, with bright palate, full of orange TG A powerful and of orange, eucalyptus, lemons, apricots, limes, punchy freshness, marmalade and with a imposing Port with lots salted almonds. Dry, butterscotch, brown memorably so. salty savoury edge. of ripe bramble fruit, punchy palate; long sugar and marmalade. TG Beautifully complex TG Great concentration liquorice tones and finish, unexpectedly Textbook example. notes of peanut brittle and complexity of sweet spice. Young, soft and round. TG Luscious mango, and Scottish tablet, walnut skins, toffee potent and structured. TG Nutty, yeasty and pineapple and barley with a piercing seam of apples, salted caramel Drink 2019-2027 fresh aromas lead to a sugar sweetness. Lifted, balancing acidity and a and furniture polish. Alc 20% bone-dry palate of juicy and unctuous, lingering saline finish. Savoury, saline length Richard Mayson salted almonds and balanced by bright lemon Delicious! and brilliant orange orange blossom. Zesty, curd acidity. Very long. Drink 2019-2025 peel freshness. bright and linear. Drink 2019-2027 Alc 18% Drink 2019-2025 Drink 2019-2023 Alc 9.5% Matt Walls Alc 21% Alc 15% Caroline Gilby MW Peter Richards MW Natalie Earl D

32 | January 2019 • DECANTER