Poonch Festival a Strategy to Integrate Border Regions in J&K

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IPCS Special Report 64 Poonch Festival A Strategy to Integrate Border Regions in J&K

JANUARY 2009 D. Suba Chandran

Institute of Peace and Conflict Studies

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POONCH FESTIVAL A STRATEGY TO INTEGRATE BORDER REGIONS IN J&K D. SUBA CHANDRAN Deputy Director, IPCS, New Delhi

An Overview

Come September and Ladakh, especially The need for a Poonch festival and its Leh and its immediate surroundings, implications for the society and nation become more colourful and vibrant than cannot be underestimated or overlooked. usual. The reason is the Ladakh festival, which now attracts global attention and How does one pursue the matter further? tourists who visit to enjoy the culture, What needs to be done at the societal people and places of Ladakh. While and state levels? Ladakh has its own set of loyal tourists, mostly with an adventurous streak; the Such a festival needs support from both Ladakh festival has expanded its tourism the state and society. Clearly, the local base, with an ever greater number from society cannot organize such an event on within J&K, elsewhere in India and across its own. The direction and funding the world, especially Europe, interested in support will have to come from the state, visiting the region, particularly during this in the same manner that it has assisted period. For the last two years, there has the organization of the Ladakh and been an increased emphasis on a Jammu Jammu festivals. More than funding festival as well. In 2007, the Jammu festival was celebrated for three days, support to organize the event, for which which subsequently became a fortnightly the budget may not be significant, what festival, starting 2008. Although it is actually needed is for the state to attracted a huge crowd, especially since provide additional infrastructure. the performers at the festival came from all over the world, the fest itself remained From travel to accommodation, there is a confined to Jammu town. need to improve the basic infrastructure of the district. As mentioned above, the There is a need for such festivals, JKSRTC operates only a couple of especially in the border and interior services between Jammu and Poonch. districts of J&K, which seem to have There are hardly any accommodation become relics of an ancient past. While facilities available in Poonch; and given each district of J&K has its own unique history, culture, festivals and traditions (and the current infrastructure, the district in some cases, even language); the politics headquarters, may not be able to of violence and militancy within the state accommodate even a 100 people in the and New Delhi’s obsession with J&K as a government and private hotels and ‘security state’, unfortunately, have isolated bungalows. The roads need to be the people and their proud culture in select developed urgently. . regions.

While the primary focus of this essay is Poonch; the arguments made for a regional festival within J&K, the means/organization and implications of such an initiative, are

1 IPCS SPECIAL REPORT No 64, January 2009 also applicable to other regions such as across religious lines, make this town and Uri, Kupwara, Kargil, Kishtwar, and the entire district a colourful entity, but on Basholi. Bhaderwah, another region in J&K, the flip side, also politically volatile. also had its own festival recently. While none can deny the cultural and tourist While the city and the district are known importance of this beautiful valley; the for its communal harmony and peaceful co- festival seems to have been organized existence, minor tremors of communal here not so much for its beauty, as for the tensions have been felt in recent years. To fact that it is the constituency of the former their credit, Poonch and Rajouri have never Chief Minister, Ghulam Nabi Azad. witnessed the displacement of minority communities on a large scale, unlike what I has happened in the Kashmir valley over POONCH: POLITICAL, RELIGIOUS AND the last two decades. While the Kashmiri STRATEGIC SIGNIFICANCE Pandits felt insecure and were forced to leave the Valley and settle elsewhere as Poonch, like the above mentioned regions, ‘internal refugees’; there has never been a is located in one corner of the district, and large scale displacement of the Hindus and perhaps, the country as well. To get from Sikhs in Poonch and Rajouri. Jammu to Poonch, it takes a back-breaking eight-hour journey in private operator-run Today however, there are clear fault lines vehicles, most of which are tempo travellers – whether these are considered minor or or Tata sumos. Poonch is perhaps, one of major, depends on whose perspective these the few district headquarters in the country, are viewed from. While there have been where the State Road Corporation runs no major communal riots between different only two services from the state capital. In religious communities in recent years, the fact, the JKSRTC does not have depots in tension is palpable. There is an increased many district headquarters. A comparison feeling amongst the Muslim community that with the neighbouring states of Punjab, militant Hindu organizations such as the Himachal and Haryana, would reveal the Bajrang Dal are trying to increase the disastrous state of state-run buses. The communal cleavage in the region. The condition of the roads is relatively better diversion of religious yatris to the Buddha today, with the road between Jammu and Amarnath shrine, situated at Mandi, a few Rajouri being double-laned and metalled. kilometres away from Poonch town, is seen The road between Rajouri and Poonch as a deliberate move to communalize the however, is still under renovation. Here, situation. The recent torching of shops in news papers get delivered only in the Poonch during the Amarnath Shrine land evening, electricity is erratic, and private allotment controversy is also viewed by the mobile operators are yet to make a dent in Muslim community as a Hindutva agenda to the area. The BSNL communication network, polarize the community along regional when it works, is the people’s only link with lines. the rest of world. In short, Poonch has been left to the whims of nature, which also has The dominant perception, shared by the not been kind thus far. Hindus and Sikhs, is that since they are a silent majority; their sentiments are being Despite its several problems, the political, taken for granted by the government, sociological, and strategic importance of which is only interested in appeasing the Poonch cannot be under estimated. majority. Most of the developmental Composed primarily of Muslims, Hindus expenditure, the minority community and Sikhs, the population is diverse; yet this complains, goes into addressing the religious configuration lends a degree of concerns of the majority Muslims in these sensitivity to the district. Further divisions twin districts. One example, that (the Gujjars, Bakerwals, Paharis, PoK repeatedly finds mention is that there is no refugees, and ethnic Kashmiris), cutting degree college along the 40 km stretch of

2 POONCH FESTIVAL road between Nowshera and Rajouri, Poonch have largely gone unnoticed on the which is dotted primarily with Hindu regional and certainly, on the national community settlements, most of them PoK radars; these developments should be refugees. On the other hand, there are two expanded further. At least two degree colleges and a university along the encouraging developments are worth 20 km stretch between Rajouri and Thana mentioning – decline in militancy and Mandi. Besides, the minority community greater cross-LoC movement of divided also believes that the loyalty of the Muslim families. While militancy reached a peak in majority lies across the LoC rather than the late 1990s in this region, in the last few with New Delhi. In a communally sensitive years, it has been gradually dying out, situation, perceptions assume greater even if it is not already dead. There are power and influence than reality. presently, no or very few local recruitments and the number of active militants in this Besides, there is a slow, but strong divide district stands between an estimated taking root between the Paharis and twenty to thirty, most of whom are hiding in Gujjars, especially since the time the latter Surankote and Mendhar sectors. The were granted the status of a ‘scheduled security forces – both the army and local tribe’ (ST). The Paharis, meaning ‘people of police have worked hard to bring the the hills’, comprise a category of people, militancy down - to which the ceasefire and which cuts across religious lines. They feel the construction of fencing all along the LoC that granting the ST status to the Gujjars in Rajouri and Poonch districts have also has undermined their position and undercut contributed significantly. Thanks to these their opportunities, as they believe that factors, the people feel far more secure both, the Gujjars and Paharis come from and relaxed, especially with a decrease in the same geographic, social and economic the regular gun and artillery fire from terrain. The Paharis believe that with such a state and non-state actors – both overt and decision, the future of their forthcoming covert. generations has been put at stake. Hence, they have also started demanding that the The opening of the Poonch-Rawlokot road same status or its equivalent be granted to to enable members of divided families visit them. This simmering divide which is each other, has opened the eyes and becoming more pronounced by the day, hearts of people living across the LoC, by could erupt at any time. breaking the numerous myths and false propaganda unleashed by state Strategically, Poonch shares its borders machineries on either side. People are now with Pakistan occupied Kashmir and has able to see for themselves what is really witnessed the Indo-Pak wars of 1947, happening and can therefore, make their 1965 and 1971. The 1947 war, in fact, own assessments, based on their divided the erstwhile Poonch region into experience of realities at the ground level. two; with most of its districts, including This perhaps, has been the most Rawlakot and Kotli, falling onto the other remarkable development in the region in side of the Line of Control (LoC), under the last six decades. The above-mentioned Pakistan’s occupation. developments need to be built on, and a Poonch festival, as has been explained II subsequently, can prove immensely helpful RATIONALE FOR THE POONCH in this regard. FESTIVAL Second, the rationale for a Poonch festival The rationale for a regional festival in also arises from a need to market this Poonch stems from the following factors. district to the rest of J&K and India. First, there have been a few positive Unfortunately, J&K is largely seen as developments in this region in the last few synonymous either with violence and years. Given the fact that both, Rajouri and conflict, or alternately, tourism in Leh, Dal

3 IPCS SPECIAL REPORT No 64, January 2009 lake and Gulmarg, or the pilgrimage to Ladakh does, bringing in an ever the Amarnath and Vaishno Devi shrines. increasing number of visitors. While undoubtedly, places like Srinagar and Leh deserve the attention they receive; Third, a Poonch festival is equally this should not undermine the capacity of important from the perspective of the other places like Bhaderwah, Kargil, district itself. As shall be seen subsequently, Poonch and Basholi to attract and enthral the Poonch festival will have to include the visitors. With a disproportionate focus on different cultures and religions that are the former, the latter areas seem to have cohabiting in this district. As mentioned been abandoned by the tourists – whether above, there are fault lines within these those visiting for purposes of religion, societies, which have otherwise largely pleasure, or adventure. Poonch and Rajouri been peaceful and kept themselves away abound with places of scenic beauty, and from violence. These fault lines exist most opportunities for trekking and other clearly between the Muslims and non- adventure-related activities, and also Muslims (including Hindus and Sikhs) and shrines and other places of religious import. between the Paharis and Gujjars. A secular Poonch festival is likely to address this It would be pertinent to ask how many of cleavage and remind the people of the tourists who have visited other parts of different faiths and denominations of the J&K for adventurous and religious common history and rich cultural heritage purposes, have toured Rajouri and Poonch their region is endowed with. During the districts? According to a latest news report, maharaja’s rule in the pre-1947 period, there were an additional 67 lakh tourists to secular melas in the united Poonch were the Vaishnodevi shrine, and more than commonplace and helped emphasize the 40,000 visitors to Patnitop and around on cultural diversity of the region and the new year’s eve. How many of them visited need for the people to live together in Rajouri and Poonch? If only these harmony. attractions were marketed well, then this region would not be thought of as a Fourth, such a mela is likely to revive the godforsaken place. historical and cultural ties that undivided Poonch enjoyed before 1947. Much before Besides the tourists from outside J&K, it is becoming the subjects of Poonch unfortunate that there are not many even Maharajas – under independent rulers, or from within the state who have visited these under the influence of Mughal or Sikh rule, regions. Many government employees – the people of Rajouri and Poonch districts from teachers to tourist officials, who have on the Indian side, had frequent and been appointed in these districts, have intense interactions with the people of been candid enough to accept that it was Bagh, Poonch, Sudhanati, Kotli, and their first visit ever to these regions. Even Bhimber districts of Kashmir under Pakistan after their posting however, many of them control. In fact, “Azad Kashmir” and have admitted that till date their own “Pakistan occupied Kashmir” are family members, including spouses and misnomers. Except for a few ethnic children have not visited these places. Kashmiris, mainly in Neelum and Muzaffarabad districts across the LoC, the A regional mela, such as the one being rest of the people and districts have more proposed, will bring to these culturally and in common with the people of Rajouri and religiously diverse and scenically splendid Poonch. The fact, that there are more districts along the LoC, the publicity that divided families in these two districts and they require and deserve. Once people that the Poonch-Rawlakot bus service is from other parts of J&K and the rest of more famous that the Uri-Muzaffarabad India start visiting, they are likely to act as bus, are reflections of the actual reality. brand ambassadors of Poonch and Rajouri, just as every visitor to Dal Lake and

4 POONCH FESTIVAL

Today, although the people of this region III are divided by the LoC; before 1947, they POONCH FESTIVAL: THE INGREDIENTS celebrated their religious and secular festivals together. With the inauguration of What should the proposed Poonch festival the Poonch-Rawlakot bus service there has include? What can be done immediately, been considerable interaction between without investing much, and what can be people on either isde, especially amongst left for later, which might require long-term the divided families. The proposed Poonch planning and greater investment? festival is likely to expand this interaction beyond divided families and attract The proposed Poonch festival could be people even from across the LoC to both secular and religious. In fact, given the celebrate the festival. Already, those who cultural synthesis and history of this region, have been visiting from across the LoC, the divide between the secular and have been taking part in or observing religious appears slim and is likely to be some of the secular events in India, such as appreciated by people belonging to its republic and independence day different faiths. To start with, the Poonch celebrations, and have also been attending festival could be a three-day affair, with some religious festivals that have taken most of the activity concentrated mainly in place in numerous Sufi shrines in Poonch Poonch town, and subsequently, can be and Thana Mandi, near Rajouri. extended to five or seven days covering other towns as well, including Mendhar and Finally, such a mela is likely to attract the Surankot and perhaps even Bafliaz. Poonchi diaspora back to its roots and in the process, provide the much-needed The focus of this festival could be the exposure to the people of Poonch. Before culture of Poonch, its youth and religions. 1947, Poonch was the main center of Clearly, there are two distinct cultures – learning and till date, the Poonchis are Pahari and Gojri, each with its own folk known for their high level of literacy within songs, dances and literature. Even today, in the region. Since 1947, especially since the most of the school and college annual wars in 1965 and 1971 and the festivals – whenever these have been held establishment of the LoC, Poonch has been in the region, one has been witness to the relegated to one corner of India, linked to showcasing of these distinctive cultures by the rest of world by just one road – Poonch the students. Unfortunately, these cultures to Jammu via Rajouri and Akhnoor. Earlier, are declining, as the patronage they the people of Poonch would interact with earlier enjoyed has been withering away. the people of Kashmir through the Poonch- While before 1947, the Mahrajas used to Uri passage and the rest of Punjab mainly be the chief patrons of these cultures, post- through the Poonch-Rawlakot, Mendhar- 1947, thanks to the neglect by the state, Kotli and Nowshera-Bhimber accesses. these cultures no longer have the platform With the erstwhile Mughal road also and space they deserve. There are having gone into complete disrepair, numerous well-meaning people within the external connectivity for the people of this region, who are extremely concerned and region became primitive and extremely enthusiastic about reviving their declining difficult. Additionally, the failure of cultures. successive governments in J&K to provide better governance has resulted in the Second, the proposed festival could decline of the socio-economic standards showcase certain secular events, peculiar to within this region. As a result, many this region, including wrestling, ‘stone Poonchis from across the LoC are settled lifting’ and ‘wrist holding’. Though the state today in the rest of India, Pakistan and has supported some of these events as part abroad. of the region’s rural sports culture, especially among the youth, these activities could become the highlight of the Poonch

5 IPCS SPECIAL REPORT No 64, January 2009 festival. To attract participation from other IV regions of J&K and beyond, more events THE FESTIVAL AHEAD could be included in the fest. For example, a cycle race from Bafliaz to Dera-ki-Ghali Clearly, the need for a Poonch festival and (the highest point on Poonch-Bafliaz- its implications for the society and nation Rajouri) road, or a trekking competition cannot be underestimated or overlooked. from Loran to Gulmarg across the Pir How does one pursue the matter further? Panjal or even a race – cycle or motor – What needs to be done at the societal and along the Mughal road from Bafliaz to state levels? Sophian, could attract people from all over the world. People from all over Europe and Such a festival needs support from both the Canada already come to Leh to cycle to state and society. Clearly, the local society Khardung La, a 40 distance of 40 kms, and cannot organize such an event on its own. if promoted properly, one could expect a The direction and funding support will have decent participation from these countries to to come from the state, in the same manner take part in the proposed Poonch festival. that it has assisted the organization of the Ladakh and Jammu festivals. More than Third, one can also conceive of religious funding support to organize the event, for events as a part of the Poonch festival. A which the budget may not be significant, one-day package tour to the three most what is actually needed is for the state to important shrines of the district – Sain provide additional infrastructure. Baba Miran, Budha Amarnath and Nangali Sahib - belonging to Muslim, Hindu and From travel to accommodation, there is a Sikh faiths, can be organized for visitors. need to improve the basic infrastructure of The most unique aspect of these three the district. As mentioned above, the shrines – though belonging to different JKSRTC operates only a couple of services faiths, attracts everyone. Situated almost in between Jammu and Poonch. There are the same circuitous road, these three hardly any accommodation facilities important shrines are situated close to available in Poonch; and given the current Poonch town, within a radius of 15-25 kms. infrastructure, the district headquarters, Both Sain Miran and Nangali Sahib are may not be able to accommodate even a located along the banks of the Drungali 100 people in the government and private Nallah (rivulet); with Sain Miran perched hotels and bungalows. The roads need to atop a hill, close to the LoC, from where be developed urgently. Unfortunately, one can see the villages across the ???, and despite being a national highway, the Nangali Saheb almost at the confluence of Jammu-Poonch road is perhaps one of the the Drungali Nallah and Poonch river. worst roads in the entire country. Other Besides their religious significance, both access roads also need to be developed these places are also a visual treat for along with proper wayside amenities. tourists. Budha Amarnath, on the other hand, is situated on the Loran Nullah, from It will be an impossible task to attract where one can see the snow-clad Pir Panjal national and international tourists in the - visually, just as pleasurable. absence of such basic infrastructure. Imagine a 200 km plus highway, with a One could start from Poonch town, offering signboard that proudly declares “Welcome early morning prayers at Budha Amarnath, to the Jammu-Poonch national highway”, visit Nangali Sahib in the noon, take part in but is full of potholes and without any the langar (community lunch) and spend the decent roadside restaurants and evening in Sain Miran and return to Poonch washrooms! Providing this basic the same day. infrastructure should be the joint responsibility of both, the state and union governments.

6 POONCH FESTIVAL

Civil society actors can be called upon to help in organizing the events of the festival. Both, religious and secular civil society groups will be extremely interested in being part of the festival and will also have a stake in organizing it. The trusts of Sian Miran, Nangali Sahib and Budha Amarnath, will be more than willing to take part in such a festival. So will the cultural and business groups of the region. In terms of organizing the event, the local administration in Poonch or its tourism department can take the lead. Even the Jammu University, with its new campus in Poonch could become among the primary organizers of the fest. Given the bureaucratic delays and the popular perception relating to corruption within government, it will not be a bad idea to organize this festival, with Jammu University and the Degree College in Poonch as the primary organizers. Such a strategy will make this festival, even more colourful and youthful.