“America’s leading authority”™ Ultimate Miter Stand

• Step by Step construction To download these plans, you will need Adobe Reader instruction. installed on your computer. If you want to get • A complete bill of materials. a free copy, visit: http://adobe.com/reader. • Exploded view and elevation Having trouble downloading the plans? Right click on the download link and select drawings. “Save Target As...” or “Save Link As...” (depending on the web browser you are • How-to photos with instructive using) to download to your local drive. captions.

• Tips to help you complete the project and become a better Copyright Woodworker’s Journal © 2011 woodworker. WJ156 www.woodworkersjournal.com Track and Flip Stop Optional Scrap Bins Dual Dust Collection Ultimate Miter Saw Stand

By Chris Marshall or all sorts of cross- and angle- tasks, a miter saw is a woodworker’s friend. But, to really maximize Fits potential, you need a good home base for your Accuracy, tearout prevention , storage saw — and that’s what this project delivers. It addresses what I feel are a miter saw’s biggest needs. The stand and dust collection are key features is a full 8 ft. long, in order to provide generous support tables on either side of the saw. They’ll help you cut down of this hardworking shop . long stock with ease. I’ve equipped the support table

40 Moveable Saw Platform -activated Switch Heavy-duty Casters

fences with Kreg’s aluminum track system and flip the saw as usual. No versatility lost here. stop, for setting up precise cutoff lengths or carrying While a miter saw’s bag captures some , a shop vacu- out repetitive cutting jobs. You’ll also notice that the saw um works much better, so I’ve sized the stand’s enclosed cabinet is mounted on a center platform that slides back and to fit a vac with up to a 16-gallon capacity. The saw turns it on, forth and locks in place. It enables you to mount a back- thanks to a tool-activated switch inside. And, although you can’t up board directly to the saw’s metal fences for tearout- see it in this large opening photo, a trough behind the saw helps free cutting, then align the saw flush with the project’s collect whatever the shop vac doesn’t. A chamber runs behind fixed fences. When you need to tilt the machine for the left support table, with openings on both ends, so you can cuts, just pull the platform forward of the fences and tip hook up your dust collector and whisk the trough clean.

41 Carcass (Side and Front Views) Shelf dadoes kick off 96" the carcass process. 1 Bore a hole to accomodate 40" Right Side power access to the I-Socket Six fixed shelves give you plenty of Switch (piece 35). room for cutoff storage; I’ve even added two pull-out bins to mine that store those shorter scraps I can’t bear to throw away. Face Frame Plus, heavy-duty casters make the cart (Front View) 6 10 easy to roll around when necessary. 3 12 Ready to build one of these souped-up 6" 26" 9 stations for your shop? Let’s get started! 15 1 10 /2" 32" Assembling the Carcass Note: The back panel 1 is flush to the lower 24 /2" Follow the Material List dimensions on edge of the bottom 10 1 13 the next page to make six panels for the cleat. The skirts are 12 /2" 11 sides and dividers (pieces 1). I cut the applied after assembly. 9 two outer side panels to final size right away, but notice that the dividers are doubled up to form the walls of the inner Sides/Divider Panels Door Stiles and Rails The dust chamber (Inside View) (Top and Front Views) cabinet. So, I cut two dividers to dimen- wall (piece 8) is 3" 1 1 /4 sion, glued them to slightly oversized located 5 ⁄2" from the " Dust channel on left back edge of the 3 mates, and then used a flush-trim bit in /4 dividers and side. 1 6 " side panel. The 3 ⁄2" 3 4" 4" my handheld to bring them to a 3 4 /4" /4 holes for the dust " 3 perfect matched fit. Take these four 1 8 channel are bored 3 /2" Dia. / " components to your to mill 1 3 at both ends of 8 11 /4" 1 / " dadoes for the four fixed shelves, the channel. plus the center panel that supports Hinge cup 3 locations 19 /4" the saw platform. (right door).

Mill dadoes in the sides and 20 4" divider panels to house the cabinet’s fixed shelves. Miter Saw Stand Hardware The following supplies are available from Woodworker’s Journal. 4" Caster (locking) #23030 ...... $37.99 pr 4" Caster (swivel) #22410 ...... $27.99 pr 1/2" Overlay Face Frame Hinges #55910 . . .$6.99 pr 4" Satin Nickel Wire Pulls #23074 ...... $5.29 ea Hanger Bolts (8 pack) #24430 ...... $3.29 pk Knobs #71514 ...... $1.79 ea i-Socket Switch #20890 ...... $36.99 ea Kreg Top Trak (2 required) #26358 ...... $34.99 ea Kreg Flip Stop #21938 ...... $29.99 ea Self-Stick Rule (L to R) #69116 ...... $9.99 ea Self-Stick Rule (R to L) #69124 ...... $9.99 ea Dust Right Combo Port #28666 ...... $5.99 ea To purchase any of these products online, please visit www.woodworkersjournal.com and click on the “WWJ Store” tab. Or, to order by phone, call 800-610-0883 and mention code WE061.

June 2010 Woodworker’s Journal 31

28 25 26 4 34 27

36 24 32 4

2 8 3 4 33 5 32 10 1 7 4 30 2 5 9 12 1 29 4 5 17 1 12 1 11 10 5 23 21 9 18 13 22

19 10 6 13 17 20 Platform Base (Top View) 11 Top Panel — Short 15 5 (Top View) 2 /8" 1 2 /4" 1 2 /2" Dia. 16 3 /8" 5" 14 7 24 1 /2 4" 1 " 3 Exploded View 14 5 /8" 15 2"

MATERIAL LIST T x W x L T x W x L 3 3 1 1 Sides/Divider Panels (6) 3/4" x 23 ⁄ 4" x 32 ⁄ 4" 19 Door Stiles (4) 3/4" x 2" x 25 ⁄ 2" 3 1 1 2 Top Panels — Long (2) 3/4" x 23 ⁄ 4" x 33 ⁄ 2" 20 Door Rails (4) 3/4" x 2" x 10 ⁄ 4" 1 1 3 3 3 Back (1) 3/4" x 34 ⁄ 4" x 94 ⁄ 2" 21 Door Panels (2) 1/4" x 10 ⁄ 16" x 22 ⁄ 16" 1 4 Edging (1) 3/4" x 3/4" x 260 ⁄ 2" 22 Hinges (4) 1/2” Overlay Euro-style 3 1 5 Fixed Shelves (4) 3/4" x 23 ⁄ 4" x 33 ⁄ 2" 23 Door Pulls (2) 4” Wire 3 1 6 Bottom (1) 3/4" x 23 ⁄ 4" x 96" 24 Platform Base (1) 3/4" x 17 ⁄ 4" x 26" 3 3 1 7 Top Panel — Short (1) 3/4" x 23 ⁄ 4" x 26 ⁄ 4" 25 Platform Top (1) 3/4" x 13 ⁄ 4" x 26" 3 3 1 1 8 Dust Chamber Wall (1) 3/4" x 6 ⁄ 4" x 32 ⁄ 4" 26 Platform Back (1) 3/4" x 2 ⁄ 2" x 24 ⁄ 2" 1 1 1 9 Face Frame Long Rails (2) 3/4" x 1 ⁄ 2" x 93" 27 Platform Sides (2) 3/4" x 2 ⁄ 2" x 13 ⁄ 4" 1 10 Face Frame Short Rails (4) 3/4" x 1 ⁄ 2" x 32" 28 Platform Edging (1) 1/4" x 3/4" x 57" 1 11 Face Frame End Stiles (2) 3/4" x 1 ⁄ 2" x 35" 29 Hanger Bolt Backer (1) 3/4" x 6" x 26" 1 1 12 Face Frame Center Stiles — Short (2) 3/4" x 1 ⁄ 2" x 7 ⁄ 2" 30 Hanger Bolts, Washers (2) 5/16" Dia. x 3" 1 1 13 Face Frame Center Stiles — Long (2) 3/4" x 1 ⁄ 2" x 24 ⁄ 2" 31 Knobs (2) T-style 1 14 Long Bottom Cleats (2) 3/4" x 6" x 84" 32 Fences (2) 3/4" x 2 ⁄ 4" x 35" 3 15 Short Bottom Cleats (2) 3/4" x 6" x 23 ⁄ 4" 33 Brackets (2) 3/4" Aluminum Angle 16 Casters (2 locking, 4 swivel) 4" Dia. 34 Tracks (2) and Flip Stop (1) Kreg Fence System 1 17 Side Skirt Boards (2) 3/4" x 1 ⁄ 2" x 26" 35 i-Socket Switch (1) Electrical Outlet 1 18 Back Skirt Board (1) 3/4" x 1 ⁄ 2" x 96" 36 Dust Port (1) 4" Plastic

Woodworker’s Journal June 2010 43 Screw- and brad-reinforced butt joints speed the assembly process along.

Refer to the Drawings to cut two dadoes in the side panel, and set large holes in the left divider and the divider into place. Drive screws side panel for the dust chamber through the divider’s top to 1 openings. A 3 ⁄2"-diameter pin it to the top shelf, and lock the in your press will do it nicely. shelves to the side panel with more Ease the edges of these holes. brads. If you’re starting with the Set these panels aside, and cut left bank of shelves, fit the dust the long top panels and back panel chamber wall into position on the to shape (pieces 2 and 3). Although top shelf; attach it to the divider my buddy Bruce Kieffer favors and top shelf with screws and to thinner edging for his the side panel with brads. Now, projects (see his article on page repeat this whole assembly process 24), I like the durability and look on the other end of the cabinet for of thicker edging. So, I wrapped the side, shelves and divider. the ends of the top panels, as well When all of these components are as the top and ends of the back fastened, slide the short top panel panel, with beefier strips (pieces into place between the dividers. 4). Attach them with glue and #20 Attach the dividers, short top panel biscuits. and shelves to the bottom and/or Attach thick edging strips to the long top and back panels with #20 biscuits (top photo). The author constructed the While the glue dries, you can back panels with screws. Finally, carcass as two subassemblies of shelf banks, building one proceed to cut the cabinet bottom, seal the joints of the dust chamber side at a time (above). fixed shelves, short top panel and with a of caulk before cap- dust chamber wall (pieces 5 ping off the shelf banks with the through 8) to shape. Bore a hole for two top panels. Use countersunk your shop vac hose in the short top screws driven down into the panel near the back right corner. dividers, sides and dust chamber As tempting as it may be to dive wall, as well as through the back, into the big assembly, the smarter to secure these joints. Cover all of approach is to sand all the inside the screw holes with plugs, surfaces of the cabinet panels now and sand them flush when the glue and finish them while the faces are dries. Your project is rolling along still fully accessible. nicely now. The carcass actually goes togeth- er quickly; you can form the joints Adding the Face Frame & with #8 countersunk wood screws Wheels or 2" brad nails. No glue is really The face frame is a straightforward necessary. Here’s the assembly. I built it entirely with process I followed, build- pocket screws. But, before you rip ing one end of the cabinet, and crosscut all of the face frame then the other: Screw the components (pieces 9 through 13), side panel to the bottom let me make a suggestion: while panel, then fasten the the Material List specifies that all 1 back panel to these two of the face frame parts are 1 ⁄2" with more screws. (Note: wide — which on a perfect carcass The back panel extends will work just fine — make the below the bottom panel by short top and long bottom rails 3/4" to allow room for the about 1/16" wider and the end bottom cleats, later.) Slip stiles about this much wider and the shelves into their 1/8" longer than listed. That way,

Fit the face frame parts directly on the cabinet and mark their joints before assembling the frame with pocket screws (third photo from top). the face frame to the cabinet and attach it with 2" brads (bottom photo).

44 June 2010 Woodworker’s Journal you’ll build in some “fudge factor” grooves to fit the panels snugly. to adjust the finished frame on the Make the stub tenon thickness on All of the door joinery can be tackled at the table saw with carcass when it’s assembled. the ends of the rails match the a dado . Here, the author cuts stub tenons on the ends Cabinetmakers do this all the time. width, and mill the tenons of the rails after plowing the panel grooves. Trim and fit your face frame parts 3/8" long. Sand the door parts thor- right on the carcass, holding them oughly before gluing and clamping in place with clamps as needed, so them together. Follow the instruc- you’ll be assured of their exact tions that come with the 1/2" over- placement. Once all of the parts lay Euro hinges (pieces 22) that are created, label every joint care- will mount these doors to the face fully to keep their orientation clear frame. You’ll need to bore pairs of before removing the loose rails and 35mm hinge cup holes into the stiles and boring your pocket door stiles, attach the hinge hard- screw holes. Assemble the face ware and then mount the hinges frame with screws on a large work- and doors to the cabinet. It’s easier surface. Then set and clamp it into to do than you might think. Once position on the cabinet, and it the doors are in position on the home. Remove any overhang on project, adjust the hinges to align the top and sides of the face frame the doors with one another. Go with a trim router, block or ahead and install the door pulls, belt . too (pieces 23). At this point, you’re nearly ready to tip the project upright — and Making the Saw Platform you can leave it that way for the It’s time to outfit your saw for its remainder of the construction new home, and that means building process if you install the long and the moveable platform. Cut the A drill press is the best tool for boring 35mm stopped holes in short bottom cleats (pieces 14 and platform base (piece 24) to size, the door stiles for hinge cup hardware. Use a clamped fence to 15) and the six casters (pieces 16) and mill two slots for hanger bolts secure this operation as well as to index the hole positions. now. I glued and nailed the cleats with a 3/8"-diameter straight or in place and mounted the casters spiral bit in your router table. Now, with 1" lag screws and washers. glue strips of edging (pieces 28) to Grab a buddy to help you right the the base as well as to blanks of stand onto its wheels. Add the side plywood for the platform top and and back skirt boards (pieces 17 sides (pieces 25 and 27). Trim the and 18) to hide the ends and edges edging flush. Before you cut the of the bottom panel and cleats; I sides and back (piece 26) to final rounded the ends of the side skirt width, verify this measurement boards first at my disc sander considering the exact height of before gluing and nailing the skirt- your saw’s base; you want to make ing in place. sure the saw will meet the support tables flush when mounted on the Building and Hanging the platform. Sand and finish the plat- Doors form parts now before screwing or After all this big-panel construc- nailing it together. tion, the doors will probably come Drill holes in the platform to suit as a pleasant reprieve. Cut the your saw’s mounting configuration, stiles, rails and door panels (pieces and bolt the saw to the platform. I 19 through 21) to size, and head to used carriage bolts, washers and your table saw to mill the panel grooves and stub tenons that hold Install a pair of locking swivel the doors together. If your door casters on the front corners of the panel plywood is slightly thinner cabinet with short lag screws and than 1/4" — and these days, it washers. The other four casters do usually is — cut the rail and stile not need to be locking style.

Woodworker’s Journal June 2010 45 The author mounted his saw to the platform with carriage bolts and locking nuts (left). Use the platform’s slots to help determine where to locate and install the hanger bolts (inset). them into place with a pair of nuts tightened against one another.

nylon lock nuts. Now, set the platform into place on the cabinet, Wrapping Things Up and use the slots to reference where to drill pilot holes for the Whether you build scrap bins for your project like I did is up to 1 hanger bolts (pieces 30). Locate the bolts 4 ⁄2" from the front of you; you might want to devote the entire shelf space to longer 3 the cabinet. Before those holes, fasten a backer board cutoffs. If you do build bins, I sized mine to 15 ⁄4" x 18" and (piece 29) up inside the cabinet to give the hanger bolts a used through dovetails for joinery. There are measured drawings thicker mounting substrate. Install the hanger bolts. provided at the end of this plan. As far as electricals go, I think Rockler’s i-Socket (piece 35) Adding the Fences is a great add-on to this stand, because it activates the vacuum The fences consist of three parts: a wooden body (piece 32), a every time you squeeze the saw’s trigger. But, you’ll need to strip of aluminum angle (piece 33) that secures it to the cabinet install a receptacle and long cord inside the cabinet to plug in and, of course, the Kreg aluminum flip-stop track on top (piece the i-Socket, or use a power strip. I chose the former option and 34). Cut and assemble these fence parts with #10-3/4" panhead wired my outlet with a length of 12- extension cord and sheet metal screws to create two long fence units. When mine male plug. It can handle the start-up amperage of both . 1 were ready, I mounted them 9 ⁄2" back from the front edge of the With all of the inside details now completed, give the outside support tables with more panhead screws. That fence placement of your project a thorough sanding, and apply finish to whatever enables my 12"-diameter miter saw to crosscut stock to its full surfaces are still bare. Install the dust port (piece 36) over the capacity. It also allows enough room in the hanger bolt slots to dust chamber hole on the left side of the cabinet with a bead of move the platform backward for attaching backup boards to the caulk to create an air seal, and attach it with four screws. saw fence or forward for opening the saw’s fences to make bevel Whew, this was a big project, but one you won’t regret build- cuts. You may need to adjust the location of these two fixed ing. Now you’ve got a full-duty miter saw station and a fences to suit your saw’s styling and cutting range. handsome shop addition to boot. I hope you enjoy using it!

Chris Marshall is Woodworker’s Journal’s Field Editor.

Assemble the three components of each fence unit with panhead screws (middle photo), then install them on the support tables with more screws. Align them carefully with one another first using a long (left photo).

Install the dust port over the dust chamber opening with a bead of caulk and four screws (right photo).

46 June 2010 Woodworker’s Journal Ultimate Miter Saw Station Scrap Bins

Exploded View

Elevations

3 2

1 7/16" x 7° Pin Slots, 1 1/8" On Center

MATERIAL LIST 1/4" x 1/4" Bottom Panel Groove T x W x L 3 3 1 Front, Back (4) 5/8" x 5 ⁄ 4" x 15 ⁄4" 3 2 Sides (4) 5/8" x 5 ⁄ 4" x 18" 1 3 Bottom (2) 1/4" x 15" x 17 ⁄ 4" 4 3/8 Construction Notes: Bottom panel grooves in front and back panels (pieces 1) must

stop short of the ends of the pins. Start and stop these cuts on 4 /

the router table with a 1/4" straight or spiral bit. , box or 1 /

half-blind joinery could be used as substitutes for through 1 1 dovetail joints shown here. 2 / 1

Woodworker’s Journal June 2010 1 1 1 1

3 14 14 2 2 1 1

27 5 5 15 15

26

24 20 20 5

25

8 1/4-in. 6 Plywood 5

7

Ultimate Miter Saw Station Plywood, Solid Wood Cutting Diagrams

Materials Needed: • 4.5 to 5 sheets 3/4" Maple Plywood • Quarter or half sheet 1/4" Maple Plywood (Doors) • 32 BF Solid Maple