Sunday Business Post-Magazine Circulation: 44529 Sunday, 2 March 2014 Area of Clip: 807300mm² Page: 12,13,14,15,16.... Page 1 of 10

TRAVELSPECIAL

Springis here, so it's time to getout thereand enjoy the best of what the countryhas to offer.Find inspiration in ourten-page Irish travel special. Witheverything from country houses to spabreaks, family holidays and food-focusedtrips on offer, there's no excusefor not hitting the road.

amazinghow little known it seemsin the CatherineO'Mahony got Republiccompared to, say,west or Connemara. downand dirty on the Fanad Wehave picked Donegal for a Valentine's peninsulain Donegal weekendbreak, in a movesome of ourfriends seem to regardas surprising. In February,it's a muckyscramble Butwe have been on this peninsula for FanadLighthouse in Donegal:given acrossfields to reachthe Great Arch on a holidaybefore so we know it's lessthan the lush gorgeousnessof this part of Donegal'sFanad Peninsula. It's worth fourhours drive from Dublin, and we are Donegal'scoastline, it's amazinghow theeffort though, when below you rears wellaware of whatit hasto offer. little knownit seems JimFoley/Getty Ireland'slargest natural stone arch, a hollowed-outFurthermore, our hotel, an utterlyrelaxing seastack-set against a backdrop countryhouse hotel called Rathmullan of craggyrocks, startling blue pools and a House,has the distinction of beinglocated foamysea. moreor lesson a goldenbeach. This provides Carryon drivingnorthward up thecoast an easyanswer to themost frequent towardFanad Head and you hit a panorama questionthat arises when one is on holiday: of greenfields that ends in a jaggedrocky whatwill we donow? A trip to the beach coastlinebattered by crashingAtlantic especiallyone that's a 100yards from the waves.This is Ireland'snorthernmost coast. breakfasttable — will generally please anyone, Nextlandfall: the North Pole. andin mostseasons too. Giventhe lushgorgeousness of this easternpart of Donegal'scoastline, it's i Sunday Business Post-Magazine Circulation: 44529 Sunday, 2 March 2014 Area of Clip: 807300mm² Page: 12,13,14,15,16.... Page 2 of 10 Sunday Business Post-Magazine Circulation: 44529 Sunday, 2 March 2014 Area of Clip: 807300mm² Page: 12,13,14,15,16.... Page 3 of 10

RathmullanHouse in Donegal:this is the sort of hotel where kids can come to breakfast wearing pyjamas and where adults have ample space to relax

frompage 12 Rathmullanis a smallcoastal village on the shoreof LoughSwilly, across which youcan spot the holidaymakers'favourite townof Buncranaon the Inishowenpeninsula (youcan get a ferrythere in summer). Localofferings include tennis and horse ridingon the beach,while there are sea sportsin highseason and a smatteringof restaurantswhich mostly open when the weathergets warmer. If youdon't require poshnosh, the moreishfish and chips at Saltn' Batteron PierRoad are not to be missed. Rathmullan'schief appeal probably liesin the factthat it's an excellentbase for golfers,anglers, surfers or just fansof beautifullandscape and beaches to explore Donegal.It's a shortdrive to the pretty townof Portsalonwith its lovelybeach. GlenveaghNational Park, one of Ireland's largest,is alsoclose by. RathmullanHouse is runby the Wheeler family,who discovered it just over50 years Castle Durrowin Co Laois:the luxuriouscountry house is one of Ireland's most popularwedding venues ago,fell in lovewith it anddecided to run it as a business.The originalhouse dates backto the early1800s and was a summer fastbuffet extends to top-notchhomemade homefor manyyears to the Battfamily, muesliand fresh berries. CherylO'Sullivan took a whowere prominent businesspeople from Manyof the bedroomsare in a modern romanticbreak at historic Belfast. extensionwing. Ours was largeand comfortable, Thesedays, Mark and Mary, a second withits owngas fire and rounded CastleDurrow in CoLaois generationof Wheelers,are in charge, Frenchdoors that lead on to the garden. whileBob Wheeler continues to workon Thebathroom - neatlybalancing the modern Castle Durrowstands in a commanding the estateand make his signature(and withthe traditional- featuredblue panelled positionoverlooking its award-winning)marmalade. walls,a freestandingcast-iron bath realmin the Co Laoiscountryside. Thehotel has beenextended over time anda pleasinglyeffective power shower. Duringsome of the worststorms andnow has 34bedrooms, a swimming Doglovers should note that there is a the countryhad seenin recentyears, my pooland a spa. "doggieroom" in thisbit of the hotelfeaturing husband and I werelooking forward to a rooms.There are plansto openthe former Butthe originalGeorgian building provides hardwoodfloors that make it easyfor peacefulgetaway. gardener'slodge as a tea roomfor dayvisitors the atmosphericcore of thishotel; it's canineguests to bunkin withtheir human A littleover an hourfrom Dublin, the whowish to enjoythe gardens. simplyan exceptionallycomfortable spot to owners,instead of beingconsigned to external castleis perfectfor a shorttrip andits central Ourroom, accessed via a rathergrand relaxover tea andscones, or a glassof red kennels. locationmeans it is easilyreached from stonestaircase, was the MissLeyah, named wine.There are fourdifferent lounge areas, Thisa generoustouch which would be mostparts of the country.Out of the gloom afterone of the Stokes'sfive daughters. eachwith a differentlook, but all boasting niceto seereplicated elsewhere, and it reflects andinto the entrancehall, we weregreeted Theroom was enormous,with antique furniture openfires and squishy sofas. Couples snuggle a notablyeasy-going and accommodating with plush settees, fresh flowers, high ceilings anda hugefour-poster bed complete up withnewspapers and books here atmosphereat Rathmullan.This andelaborate stained glass windows withcanopy. The large adjoining bathroom whilefamilies play Scrabble. is the sortof hotelwhere kids can come featuringShakespearian scenes. featuredMolton Brown toiletries and fluffy Thedining room is quirkilyarranged to breakfastwearing pyjamas, and where Builtin the early18th century by Colonel bathrobeswhile the windows,with their withmismatched antique tables and twinkly adults- anddogs - haveample space to WilliamFlower, the castleis now heavyfloor to ceilingdrapes, overlooked lightsoverhead, like a nightsky. The relax. ownedby Peterand ShellyStokes, who the extensivegardens which even on a winter's foodis excellentand unpretentious - a delicious Standardrooms cost from €80 per person boughtit in 1998and who have completely daywere a delightto see. baconand cabbage featured on the per nightfor bed andbreakfast, with superior renovatedit. Wewere told the groundsare magnificent eveningmenu while we werethere. In the roomsfrom €95. As wellas decoratingthe mainhouse in the warmermonths when the rose morning,there are kippers and pancakes as rathmullanhouse.com, irelands-bluebook.ie and rooms in lavishstyle, the Stokesconverted gardens are in fullbloom - a goodexcuse wellas the traditionalfry, while the break¬ the old stablesto courtyardfamily to returnif everthere was one.Within the Sunday Business Post-Magazine Circulation: 44529 Sunday, 2 March 2014 Area of Clip: 807300mm² Page: 12,13,14,15,16.... Page 4 of 10

SPECIAL

The AghadoeHeights in Kiilarney,Co Kerry:a supremelycomfortable five-star hotel whichoverlooks the lakes and boasts a top-class spa inexpensivetouch which he, andwe, really despiteour almost comically grumpy boat ing- keepan eyeout for this year's programme, GillianNelis acclimatised appreciated. driver. becauseif it's halfas goodas last to somegood weather in Thespa is oneof Aghadoe's main attractions, Thewelcome couldn't have been more year's,it's wellworth the trip. andafter the drivefrom Wicklow I differentat Kennedy'sPet Farmoff the Ourhome for the weekendwas Sheen Kiilarneyand Kenmare wasready for someone to workthe knots CorkRoad, which was packedwith families FallsLodge, which like many Irish hotels outof myback and shoulders (although we enjoyingthe sunshineand the chanceto has changedhands in recenttimes, and On a scorchinghot July day, I am didstop off at LaCucina in Limerickcity hand-feedthe animals. wheremanager Patrick Hanley - a local doingsomething I have never for a fantasticlunch -1 tried,and failed, to It's a littleon the priceyside (a two whogrew up in his family'shotel in Kenmare donebefore -1 am sunbathing resistchef Bruno Coppola's authentic Italian adult,three kid pass is €35),but if yougot - is bringingit to the attentionof a outsidean Irish hotel. It is an odd carbonara). the weather,you could easily pass an entire wholenew audience. feeling,and I findmyself almost apologising Forme, there's no point in havinga massageafternoon here. Thedinner cooked by chefPhilip Brazil to myfellow guests for having the temerity unlessit's a firmone, and I hadspecifically Dinner that night was in the LakeRoom whichwe ate on our secondnight at Sheen to appearin publicin a bikini.This requesteda therapistwith thumbs restaurantat Aghadoe, where we wereimpressed Falls was the bestmeal we hadon ourtrip: is Irelandfor goodness sake; we don'tdo of steel.I gotit in the shapeof RitaBonn, withthe food,the numberof local contemporarywithout being gimmicky, thatkind of thinground here. whothe spamanager tells me has a loyal suppliersname checked on the menu,and confidentand packed with flavour, his Notthat most of the otherguests are one followingof clientswho return to herregularly. the facilitatingof differentdiets. If youare cookingis reasonenough to visiteven before bit bothered.A mixof Germansand English I canunderstand why - it wasone of a coeliac,for example, you will be spoiled you throwin the location,the service (anda coupleof fellowawkward-looking the bestmassages I have ever had. for choicehere. andthe scenery. Irishpeople), they are sipping white Therewas just time for a quicksnooze in I wasa littlenervous the nextmorning Thiswas my firstholiday in the Kingdom. wineand planning their next round of golf the relaxationroom before our early dinner aboutthe drive to Kenmarevia Moll'sGap, Admittedlywe couldn'thave timed it or spatreatment. in the bar:fish and chips, some great local but I needn'thave worried. Yes it's a bit betterfrom a weatherperspective, but we'd Weare stayingat Aghadoe Heights, a seafood,and a top-notchCaesar salad. Top hairy,and yes you have to takeyour time, stillventure back even without the guarantee modernfive-star hotel a shortdrive from markstoo to the staff,who served my son's butmy goodness are the viewsworth it. of sunshine.But I'll stillpack the bikini, thecentre of Kiilarney,which is supremely dinnerin doublequick time and couldn't Webroke the journey at TheStrawberry just in case. comfortable. havebeen friendlier to him. Field,where we ate pancakesin the sun Twonights bed and breakfast and one I amtravelling with my mum and threeyear-old After breakfast the nextmorning (don't whileSam played in the sandpit. dinnerat Aghaode Heights starts from €210 son,and our studio suite overlooking leave without tasting the homemadebrown Wewere heading for Kenmare,where per personsharing. A twonight B&B break the lakesis morethan generously-sized bread),we droveto RossCastle on the edge the annualFood Carnival was in fullswing. withone dinner at SheenFalls Lodge is forthe threeof us.A magazineand teddy of the lowerlake to takea boattrip to InnisfallenThe organisers couldn't have been luckier availablefrom €350 per room. arewaiting on thebed for my son, a lovely, Island,a tripwe enjoyedgreatly withthe weather,and the townwas buzz¬ aghadoeheights.com, sheenfallslodge. ie

estateyou can find a tenniscourt with its pampering.The salon's style is prettyand roastguinea fowl and a deliciouscardamom-roasted tographs -1 feltquite envious of the stunning ownpavilion, while the riverErkina, which feminine,although men are well catered for butternutsquash risotto. bridewho arrived with her party that runsthrough the grounds,provides an opportunitytoo with specialist treatments on offer. Headchef Graham Gallagher sources afternoon. forfishing. Golfers can visit the Suitablyrelaxed, we foundour spot for manyof the restaurant'svegetables from Butalthough there was a weddingin the nearbySeve Ballesteros-designed championship the nextcouple of hoursin the librarybar the castle'sown organic kitchen gardens, castlethat night, the celebrationswere contained courseat TheHeritage, and walkers forpre-dinner drinks. One of the castle's andthe menu changes with the seasons. in the banquetinghall and we slept canenjoy the SlieveBloom mountains and residentcats was curled up on a chairin Thewine list offereda goodselection without completelyundisturbed. Despite the age followthe heritage trails of Laois. frontof thefire and we, like him, began to beingunnecessarily lengthy. of the building,and the stormoutside, the Youcan even download an appto help feelquite at home,imagining what it would CastleDurrow is one of Ireland'smost roomwas warm and comfortable. younavigate the estateand surrounding havebeen like to liveas landedgentry in popularcastle wedding venues, and it's If you seekpure indulgence, or youthink area— as wellas a walker'sguide it features bygonetimes. easyto seewhy. Not onlydoes the castle you oughtto havebeen born with blue localstorytellers telling colourful Therestaurant is dividedbetween two exudeluxury and romance,it alsofeels blood,Castle Durrow should satisfy your tales. rooms,giving the dining experience an intimatevery much like a home.The banqueting needs.A one-nightweekend break for two Giventhe weather, we decidedto stay atmosphere.A privatedining room hall is locatedin a separatewing and there sharinga masteror deluxeroom, with dinner indoorsand having settled made our way whichcan accommodate up to 16guests areterraces where wedding guests can enjoy andbreakfast, costs €210. to thehair and beauty salon, The Powder is alsoavailable. The food was excellent: drinksbefore the meal.There is a dedicated castledurrow.com, irelands-blue-book. ie Room,where the friendlyand knowledgeable a lightand delicate starter of lemonsole banquetingchef andthe grounds stafftreated us to somemuch needed withcurried creme fraiche, and mains of wouldmake the perfectbackdrop for pho¬ to page16 Sunday Business Post-Magazine Circulation: 44529 Sunday, 2 March 2014 Area of Clip: 807300mm² Page: 12,13,14,15,16.... Page 5 of 10

iVELSPECIAL

The Castlemartyrresort in :luxurious surrounds, great foodand friendlystaff

casualsurroundings of Castlemartyr'sother restaurant,the Italian-themedFranchinis. LisaBrady focused on food Therewere no complaintshere either - it doesexactly what it sayson the tin, andoffers andspa treatments ineast informal,tasty fare. Cork Thenext morning, breakfast was skipped strategically- well, a lie-onwas needed after SiobhanBrett brushed up With summerseemingly an eternity allthat chillaxing, and we wereabout to onher history — and ate like a away,any excuse to get away visita placewhich required a goodappetites fromit allis mostwelcome - Ballymaloe.That's the thing about lord— in Belfast evenif it involvesa two-anda-half thislocation; it's a greatone for foodies. n a recentSaturday morning in hourcar journey to a placemore It's alsoa goodoption for families,as Belfast,my friend Olga and I took charmingthan exotic. We arrived at the evidencedby themany little ones we saw partin a two-hourwalking tour, Castlemartyrresort in eastCork on a blustery on ourstay. Castlemartyr prides itself on "to visitand discuss the scenesof Sundayevening after a gameof hide beingfamily friendly, with nice touches for the mostviolent incidents of theTroubles andseek with our satnav. childrenlike their own splash times in the in Belfast".It was,as Olgasaid immediately Evenbefore we setfoot in the hotelwe indoorpool, a kidsmenu in the BellTower, afterwards,something we feltlike we wereimpressed: there's a longand winding andmini bathrobes, slippers and arrival 0ncededto have done our whole lives. drivethrough rolling parkland and the treatsas partof theirVIK (very important Thetour, 'A Historyof Terrorin Belfast' dramaticruins of an 800-year-oldcastle, kids)programme. (£10,deadcentretours.com) departed from beyondwhich the hotelitself twinkled in Wesaw plenty of anotherof thisarea's CityHall after 10.30am. It's trickyto put the dark. heatin the sauna.For those who fancy it, attractions,Blue Flag beaches, en routeto wordson howmuch thinking it mademe Aftermeeting the resident pooches, Earl thereis a fully-equippedgym with a daily Ballymaloein Shanagarry,about a 20-minute do,how objective, accurate and clear it felt. andCountess, we werepromptly shown programmesof classes. drivefrom the resort.We were greeted Coldwinds whipped our faces at the end to oursuite, one of 11in the 17thcentury Wewere after a laidbackexperience and withopen arms by ColmMcCann, the sommelieras we stoodat the siteof OxfordStreet bus manorhouse (there is alsoa contemporary a restfulweekend, but the resort also has andhighly enthusiastic events coordinator station, the sceneof BloodyFriday in 1972. wing,built in 2007,which house 92 new lotsto offerthose looking for a moreactive of the houseand cookery school rooms).The room was plush and comfortable, break - there'sarchery, croquet, clay pigeon - if you'replanning a tripdown this way, andwhat you would expect from fivestar shootingand even hurling, or youcan checkthe websiteto seeif oneof theregular accommodation. get a caninefix by bringing Earl and Countess, filmnights, wine tastings and other Ourdinner that evening was in theBell whoare Irish setters, for a walkin the eventsthat McCann regularly organises Towerrestaurant, one of twoeateries onsite, grounds. are on. andit wassuperb. All ingredients are And,of course,there's the golf.It's a Butback to Castlemartyr.I was expecting locallysourced where possible - the Ballycottonlinks-style golf course with 18 holes designed greatthings from this particular resort — smokedsalmon with crab beignet by RobKirby, who also created a posterchild for the boom,it openedwith waslight and delicate, and we both agreed coursesat DromolandCastle, the OldHead greatfanfare in 2008as Ireland'sonly sixstar thatthe filletof Herefordbeef supplied by in Kinsaleand Mount Juliet. The weather resort.Then it all wentwrong, both for RoyKington from Bandon, was cooked to wasnot golf-friendlyunfortunately, so the hoteland the country,and Castlemartyr perfection. myhusband had to dothe nextbest thing shutand reopened, albeit with a moremodest Afterdinner we decidedto checkout - accompanyme to lunchat Pat Shortt'sin five-starrating. Knight'sBar, where a coupleof Jamesons Castlemartyrvillage (yes, it is ownedby So didit liveup to thehype? Luxurious madefor the perfect nightcap (well we thecomic and actor). it certainlyis, andthe foodis great,but for werenear - moreof whichlater). Aftersome impressive and hearty pub me,no matterwhere you go, how the staff Thenext morning I openedthe curtains grub,we droveten minutes down the road treattheir customers speaks volumes. At to sunshineand some beautiful views of to Midleton,where the JamesonExperience Castlemartyr,they are warm, friendly without the swanlake and parterre gardens. After a tourawaited. Whether you're a whiskey beingoverbearing^ are clearly proud of breakfastof smokedkippers, eggs Benedict drinkeror not,it's a reallyinteresting insight whatthey do andstrive to makeyou feel at andfresh fruit, it wasoff for a morningof intoone of Ireland'soldest and most home.And that is whatreally makes a resort pamperingat the spa. reveredbrands, and a veryclever tourism standout. Thespa is locatedwithin a 24,000square concept. Twonights accommodation with two footwellness and fitness area with wraparound It's alsofree, and you get to do a whiskey breakfastsand dinner one evening start at floorto ceilingwindows overlooking tastingat the end,after which you are €220per room per night,based on twopeople the gardens.After treatments, we chilled rewardedfor your efforts with a certificate sharing. outin therelaxation room before taking a anda Jamesonon the house. castlemartyrresort.ieie, jamesanwhiskey. swim,a soakin thejet pooland a blastof Dinnerthat evening was in the more com,ballymaloe.ie Sunday Business Post-Magazine Circulation: 44529 Sunday, 2 March 2014 Area of Clip: 807300mm² Page: 12,13,14,15,16.... Page 6 of 10

TRAVELSPECIAL TheTitanic Experience in Belfastwill appealto anybodyhungry for detail aboutthe sinkingof the Titanicin 1912, the years beforeit and the years after a bottleof sauvignonblanc (which, we discovered later,was from an estatein New Zealandestablished by Belfastman Ernie Hunter),came to £95. Wewalked approximately 250 metres to the GrandOpera House - the seemingadjacency of everythingin thissurprisingly compactcity heightened by night- theoldest theatrein Belfast,for Northern Ireland Opera'sproduction of Verdi'sMacbeth. I settledinto my seat,feeling overindulged, morethan privileged, more than twice my age,male (for some reason) and wondering aboutfast-onset gout. Afterwards,in a whatwas perhaps a confused bidto shakethe senseof old,bloated theatre-goer,we continueddrinking cocktails. Onto the multi-awardwinning bar of the five-starMerchant Hotel, where the cocktail menuwas a fatpaperback book. The Merchantwas a beautifulplace to sit fora OOOESS whilewatching the streets,while chiselled blocksof icemelted into our drinks. Thefollowing morning, Sunday, we left ourhotel, the Europa(famous for being themost bombed in Europe,it wasbusy, cleanand the staffwere very attentive) and crossedthe Lagan to visitTitanic Belfast, thetowering, silvery monument to the ship, builtto its exactheight. TheTitanic Experience (£14.75 for an adult,£7.25 for a child)has that slick, stillnew feel:nine noisy, variously lit andanimated galleriesheaving with information. Thenearness of thehistory of ninesites ding,a carafeof verdicchioand two coffees, attractionswas its floggingrack. Holding It willappeal to anybodyhungry for detail acrosstwo miles - eventhough we thought accompaniedby piecesof stand-up celldivisions designed for men and women aboutthe sinkingof theTitanic in 1912,the ourselvesinformed and aware - wasa challengebiscotti, came to £65.25. wereeventually used to separateloyalists yearsbefore it andthe years after. It's a bit to confront.I cannot recommend it Wefloated from St Anne's Square in andrepublicans. of a thrillto be at the oldyard of Harland enough. the directionof theCrumlin Road Gaol, or Thatevening, we dinedin a restaurant andWolff, the initialsH andW stillemblazoned It wasshortly time for lunch. We went "theCrum". Built 160 years ago, it's onthe in thecity, James Street South. Initially I on cranes. to Coppion StAnne's Square, where, our westernedge of the city,up a slowclimb. A feltsorry for the place.What could follow Thena quicklunch in the charmingSt walkingtour guide had informed us, a lonetricolour was visible on top of a highrise thegolden dessert at Coppithat almost reduced George's Market (Fridays and weekends), smallbomb exploded shortly before Christmas. buildingnearby. meto tears?The duck ragu with porcini wherewe lolledabout, picking up trinkets Farfrom setting the tone, the tour GerryAdams, Ian Paisley, Peter Robinson, ravioli,practically cased in Parmesan andeating an arrayof stuffout of paper gaveus respectfor the city. Eamonde Valera and thousands of andtruffle, a mealthat mademe feellike I bagsand aluminum boxes. Wewere smitten with Coppi, especially othersdid time on CrumlinRoad, which needn'tever eat again? Twoand a halfhours later, we wereback withdessert: panettone bread and butter closedas a workingprison in 1996.The Thesympathy, it emerged,was grossly in Dublin,struggling to cometo termswith puddingwith white chocolate ice cream guidedtour (80 minutes, £7.50 for an adult, misplaced.James Street South was a the richnessand many facets of Belfast,a andcandied pistachios. This interpretation £5.50for a child)was informative but light, knock-out.We ate grilledcod on risotto and citywe hadhurriedly acquainted ourselves wasa sensation.Fine slices of fineloaf and in themain - wewere in the companyof first-ratebeef in reverentsilence. withand prior to that,wrongly overlooked. perfectcrusts, a high-styletake on a classic childrenas youngas six.One small boy, It suddenlymade sense to haveanother Beforelong it hadbeen decided: we have thatmade the classic seem flat, bland and whokept to the frontof thepack, had a pair course,and so, withcare, we picked our to go back. incapableof shakingits stale,one-pot beginnings. of plastic handcuffs proudly affixed to a waythrough petits fours and took gulps TheEuropa Hotel, from € 110per night beltloop. fromlemon meringue and tiramisu cocktails. for a doubleroom. A charcuterieboard, two extremely good Still,parts were dark. Seventeen people hastingshotels.com, coppi. co.uk, raviolidishes, the bread and butter pud¬ wereexecuted at thejail, andone of the Thebill, which included side dishes and jamesstreetsouth.co.uk

ButI digress.The golfand spa combination PatLeahy enjoyed a family is ubiquitousfor a reason- menlike golfand women like spas,or at leastmany break— and a fullyintegrated of themdo. Neither golfing nor spa-ing, fireprevention system —at the however,is designedfor children,or small onesat anyrate, though Fota has a range FotaIsland Resort in Cork of kids'activities so thatyou can - let'sbe frankhere - offloadyour kids, or at least The FotaIsland Resort is at thevery thoseover four years of age,to someone highend of theapparently thousands elsewhile you enjoy yourself. of "golfand spa" hotels that Fota,of course,has anothertrump attraction havebeen built in Irelandover the thatmums and dads and kids can visit lasttwo decades - thehotel is five-starand together:the adjacentFota Wildlife Park, the 27-holegolf course will host the Irish wherethe animals roam with near-savannah Openthis year. It hasrecently been sold freedom,presumably wondering what to a Chinesebillionaire for a reported€20 strokeof fatehas them freezing their tails million.It costsome €90 million to build. offin themiddle of the Irishwinter. It's all Welcometo theeconomics of theIrish hotel, walkableand loud and mucky and real, and post-crash. ourkids loved it. So didwe. Westayed there for a two-nightmidweek Weneither golfed nor spa-edthough we breakrecently, accompanied by our didswim a fewtimes in thevery pleasant threechildren, aged two, five and seven. pool;the spaarea is separatefrom the pool, Youthink Christmas isjust over? No, no. andcharged extra for somereason, so no It's alreadytime for the mid-term break. loungingin whitefluffy robes for us. Left:the Fota IslandResort in Cork Theyhad been back at schoolfor a fullfive and, above,the Fota WildlifePark weeksyou know. to page18 Sunday Business Post-Magazine Circulation: 44529 Sunday, 2 March 2014 Area of Clip: 807300mm² Page: 12,13,14,15,16.... Page 7 of 10

Kelly'sResort Hotelin Rosslare Strand: the hotel has perfected the balance between familyfun and grown-uprelaxation

A biggerexample: The Beaches, the resort's Themost potentially jarring part of the WhatI didn'tneed during all thiswas BarryJ Whyteenjoyed mainrestaurant, is builtas a self-containedwhole Kellys experience, though, is the the soundof kidshooting and screaming a breakof two halves in areawithin the resort complex. Not twinemphasis on adultrelaxation and kids' whileI wastrying to bask,and thankfully just an enclosedroom, but an entirelyseparate playtime.Those two elements should sit (andpresumably by design)they were far Rosslare entity:glass-walled, insulated from the comfortablytogether no betterthan a stag downthe otherend of the complex. rest of the resort,a placewith high quality partyshould fit neatlyinto a museumtour. By contrast,the followingday when I Kelly's ResortHotel in Rosslare foodand a maitred' in bowtie and tuxedo Butthe staffof Kellysmake it workby wentfor a swimwith my wife and daughter Strandis a well-knownIrish holiday overseeinga quiet,relaxed establishment acting,almost invisibly, as shepherdsherding I wantedto be sureI couldsplash about and destination,having started which- at leastnominally - has a no-jackets-no-entryonegroup away from the otherwhen raisemy voiceas muchas necessarywithout out in 1895as a tea roomrun by policy(not rigorously policed necessary. disturbingthose in the SeaSpa. the great-grandfatherof the currentboss, on the nightsI ate there). Sinceone group is, in mostcases, the Evenin the poolcomplex, there's a nod BillKelly. Aroundthe cornerand up a mildincline, legalguardian of the other,that's a neater to thatseparation, with a smallerpool for Butwhat isn't alwaysapparent is quite kids arerunning around, there's a trickthan it wouldimmediately appear. But splashingabout with babies, and which is whata difficultbalance of somevery different bar,a chips-and-sausagesstyle buffet and it works:at night,there's a reliablebabysitting only four feet at its deepest,and a larger ingredientsthe hotelconstitutes. It's a smalldance floor. It's brighterthan The serviceto let parentstake advantage of poolbeside it for the moreserious swimmers. a potentiallyjarring juxtaposition, but its Beachesand has better views, but it's also an houror twofor dinner. successcomes from not blending the elementslouder and clearly and obviously designed It's probablyno accidentthat the SeaSpa Kellysreputation is wellestablished, so at all,but keepingthem very separate. to be the placewhere you let the kidsrun andthe swimmingpool complex — which it's not cheap.But the foodis excellent,the a bit wild(since they're banned from The logicallyought to be sideby side- are at spa is relaxing,and the excellentstaff manages An example:just insidethe main door, Beaches).Despite the twobeing so close oppositeends of the complex. to jugglea lot of differentballs without there'sa quietreading room with a roaring together,and so obviouslyin contrast,it all My twohours in the SeaSpa were exceptionally letting too manydrop. And - mostimportant fireand comfortable lounging chairs to workswell. relaxingwith various Jacuzzis, of all - whensomething does drop, readbooks or newspapersunder the gazeof It prettymuch encapsulates the two plungepools, seawater baths and outdoor theyare on it immediatelyto sortit out. someof the betterlooking artwork (to my worldsthat Kellys is tryingto combine: poolsto prepareyou for the massage(or In the summer,when the sunnysouth east untrainedeye). It's mostdefinitely a childfree the familyfun resort with splash pools and whateverother treatment you got). After it livesup to its nickname,it'll be wellworth zone. swingsand slides, and the grown-uprelaxation all, I was usheredinto a relaxationroom to a visit. Just aroundthe corner,but entirelyhidden, hotelcomplex with a high-endrestaurant let the previoustwo hours' treatments sink Pricesvary depending on whatpackage childrenthunder past fromthe swimming anda relaxingspa with saunas and in whileI drankgreen tea andwater and youopt for;most packages include afternoon poolto theirrooms, followed usually massages,all the whilesurrounded by fine staredout at a sensationalview of the sea tea andlunch or dinner. by bedraggled-lookingparents. art. rollingin towardsthe Wexfordcoast. kellys.ie

frompage 17 evenin the bathrooms,I am pleased to report. intoFota that no expensehas beenspared marvellous.Even more impressively, in the on luxuryand attention to detail.Also, it's earlyevening the restauranthosts a children's Thedesignated kids' activitiesare based in Also,kids rise early, ours especially so. goodto knowthat the fireprevention system buffet. the self-cateringvillas, about ten minutes' Thepeople in the roomsaround must have is fullyintegrated, no? Howthey manage to cleanup the mess walkfrom the hotel.Relatives stay regularly beencursing us. Thebeds are fantastic, The"luxurious" foyer often hosted small so quicklyand thoroughly for fine dining at the lodges,and rave about them. Besides, though. childrencareering across it in fullflight. laterremains beyond me. yourown space in a houseis reallya Fotais obviouslyposh, but it's neither Nobodyseemed to mind,even when candles Eatingin Fota- likemuch else there - is betteroption for anyoneon a familybreak. stuffynor offputting. As the websitesays: wereknocked flying. The staffwere not cheap(even by the standardsof Chinese Westayed in adjoiningrooms, which "Fromthe momentyou enter the luxurious uniformlywarm, helpful and good humoured. billionaires),but it's brilliant.One necessitateda gooddeal of FawltyTowers-esque foyerand witness the exquisitedecor, I can't speakhighly enough of question:why like so manyother Irish hotels shufflingbetween rooms at bedtime,you will know that a combinationof luxury, them of the samevintage, are the viewsfrom culminatingin me sittingin the bathroom hospitalityand sheer quality combined Thefood in the Fotarestaurant, where the hotel'sprimary public spaces, like the in the darkwaiting for the kids(at witha fullyintegrated fire prevention system, we dinedformally one night, is absolutely bar andthe restaurant,of the carparks? It's thispoint spread across the twobedrooms) sit at the veryheart of thisexceptional of five-starquality, with local produce baffling. to fallasleep, while reading the day'sDail residence." prominentin the chef'sinventive treatment Bed andbreakfast rates are from€158 debateson mytelephone. "Daddy, what Evenby the standardsof thesethings, of classicdishes. per roomper night,depending on howfar are youdoing?" "Never mind, just goback this is impressivemarketing guff, but it was I hadthe Skeaghanoreduck washed aheadyou book. to bed."The hotel has excellentfree wifi, entirelytrue; it's obviouswhen you walk downwith a brilliantSt Emilion,and it was fotaisland.ie Sunday Business Post-Magazine Circulation: 44529 Sunday, 2 March 2014 Area of Clip: 807300mm² Page: 12,13,14,15,16.... Page 8 of 10

DeirdreO'Shaughnessy waswowed by the food in westWaterford Over thepast few years, a number of hospitalitydestinations have sprungup fromDungarvan to Ardmore thatmake west a muston anyfoodie map of Ireland.From themulti-award winning Tannery (whose chefPaul Flynn will be wellknown to fans of RTE'sToday Show) to themuch-lamented O'BrienChophouse in Lismore,the area haspunched above its weight where food is concernedover the past few years. Thejewel in thecrown of thisfood trail isArdmore's Cliff House Hotel. With a restaurant thatboasts Munster's only Michelin star,the boutique hotel has become well knownas a mustfor those looking to delight theirpalates. It's alsoa greatdestination for a weekend break,with a boutiquespa overlooking the seaboasting Ireland's best organic products,Sligo brand Voya. Therooms at thehotel are unlike those in anyIrish hotel I've previouslyvisited, The CliffHouse Hotel in Ardmore,west Waterford:the comfortable roomsall have large luxuriousbathrooms and sea views butreminded me a littleof anAmsterdam Getty hotel.They are not large - thehotel is built intoa cliff- butthe layoutis clever,with immenselycomfortable couches in deep shadesof blue,cosy cushions, and reading nooksoverlooking the bay. Everyroom has a seaview, and all are equippedwith large luxurious bathrooms. There'sa realfeel of the marine,with beautiful glassartworks above the bed giving an almost'under the sea' vibe. TheCliff House kitchen also boasts a Dutchinfluence - thatof thecelebrated headchef Martijn Kajuiter, who uses the bestlocal ingredients in incrediblyimaginative ways. Ourmeal was a pieceof theatre,with finishto themeal. productsand the spa alsooffers Voya's famous bird life than any beach I've beenon in eachdish presented by a separateserver Descriptionsare essential, for in many seaweedbaths, in outdoorbaths on Ireland- is a greataddition to yourstay in anddescribed in detail. casesthe artworkon the plate is unrecognisablethe water- definitelya winnerif youare the hotel.If you'reinto history, or evenif Dishessuch as 'GardenCarrots 2013'; as a foodsubstance you've previously lookingfor a gift for someonewho could you'renot, a walkup to the famousround Texturesand Structures, Cashel Blue, encountered.Gels, foams and shavings dowith unwinding. toweris essential. BronzeTapioca, Herbs, Morels, Arbequina of carefullybalanced ingredients make Thehotel is exceptionallycomfortable It's an incrediblemonument to early OliveOil' were an adventurein tasteand eachdish entirely unique - it's a dreamfor andthe cocktails, food and spa treatments ChristianIreland, and a reminderof how texture,but the winner among our group foodies,but if you'rethe meat and two veg areexcellent, but therecould be morecommunication exposedcoastal towns like Ardmore were of fouron the nightwe werethere was the type,this would not be foryou. betweendepartments in sucha to invasionby maraudingVikings. On the Irishcoffee dessert, described as 'Sphere, TheWell Spa at theCliff House is less smallhotel. Our trip was a littledisturbed beautifulclear day we visited,I couldalmost KilbegganWhiskey, Coffee Puffs, Cream wellknown than the restaurant, but is itself by a mix-upover a spa appointmentthat seethem coming. Jelly,Candy Floss, Toasted Barley and wellworth a visit.I hada veryrelaxing couldhave been easily avoided, while a delivery Bedand breakfast with dinner in the WhiskeyIce Cream'. It wasa realfeat of backmassage provided by a lovelytherapist of Champagne- forthe nextguest Michelin-starredHouse restaurant costs engineeringinvolving a chocolatesphere calledSultanah, and chilled out afterwards to ourroom as we wereabout to checkout, from€305 to €395for two people in a deluxe containingwhiskey ice cream, a separate in thebijou relaxation room overlooking made us feelless than welcome. seaviewroom, depending on the season. Irishcoffee, and all the otherbits and pieces thebay. Ardmoreis a beautifullocation, and a mentioned,and provided an incredible Therapistsuse Anne Semonin and Voya walkon the beach - whichboasts more the clijfhousehotel.com

passthrough those famous revolving doors. GillianNelis spent the A seeminglyendless stream of staffare on handto checkif youneed anything, if nightwith a 190-year-old, youknow the way to yourroom, if you andfound her as stylish and wanta handwith your bags. You're almost temptedto askthem for lifeadvice, strikingas ever becauseyou just knowthey would at least Is thereanything more decadent than havea go at givingit to you. spendinga nightin a hotelin the city TheShelbourne is 190years old this whereyou live? Okay, I actuallylive at year,and remains the quintessentialDublin the endof the Dartline in Wicklow,but hotel.Refurbished at humungouscost in I spendthe vast bulk of my timein Dublin 2007,everything about it feelsluxurious, doinga prettypassable impression of a fromthe elegantLord Mayor's Lounge at blue-bottomedfly. the front(book well in advancefor afternoon SoI wasas giddyas a schoolgirlwhen tea),to the spa(the facials are superb) I leftmy office after work to headto the andthe rooms (uber-comfy beds and highend ShelbourneHotel on St Stephen'sGreen. bathrooms). Thisis howto live,I thought,as I swapped Wewere on a flyingvisit, so we flew thehour-long bus journey home for a downstairsto themain restaurant, the Saddle two-minutestroll round the corner. Room,for dinner.There's a greatoyster Myhusband had alreadychecked in, bar at the frontwhere you could nip in for andwas admiring the viewof the green a quickfishy bite, but weheaded into the fromour room. The Shelbourneis oneof maindining room and perused chef Garry justfive hotels in the countryto havebeen Hughes'smenu. awardedfive red starsby theAA in its hotel Nowfor a warning:don't come here if The ShelbourneHotel: quintessential Dublin guide,and it showsfrom the minute you to page20 Sunday Business Post-Magazine Circulation: 44529 Sunday, 2 March 2014 Area of Clip: 807300mm² Page: 12,13,14,15,16.... Page 9 of 10

TRAVELSPECIAL frompage 19 you're lookingfor a cheapdinner. There's BSASSOUe a goodvalue table d'hote menu priced at €42 for courses,but the a la cartemenu is pricey:€36 for Skeaghanoreduck, €30.95 for a ten ounceribeye, €56 for surfand turf. However,the cookingis top class. My starterof DublinBay prawns with artichokepuree and a shellfishsabayon was oneof the nicestdishes I've tastedin some time:perfectly cooked, fluffy prawns with a saucethat packedan incredibleamount of flavour.I'd returnto eat this alone.For mains,halibut for me and surfand turf for my husbanddisappeared in doublequick time,and the servicethroughout the meal - in particularfrom our reallyhelpful sommelier - was superb. Wemanaged to packa lot in to our quick overnightin the Shelbourne;my husband evenmanaged to fit in a haircutat Jonathan's BarberShop, where the greatand goodmen of the cityhave had their grooming needsmet since1900. If youhad a bit moretime on your hands, you couldexperience the best of Dublin withinten minutesof the door:the National Gallery,shopping at BrownThomas, a quickspin round the LittleMuseum of Dublin,cocktails at the city's newestbar, Peurke& Periwigon DawsonStreet, then backto the Shelbournefor a nightcapin the HorseshoeBar. Not a badway to spend timein our capitalcity. The 190Years of Historyis available at the Shelbourneuntil April 24 and costs from€190 per roomfor onenights accommodation for two in a deluxeroom with Shop street in Galway,where for once it's not raining fullIrish breakfast the nextmorning. TheShelbourne.ie fan of flat-screenTVs andzippy modernist design- but redolentwith an old-world NadineO'Regan braved the charmand brilliant, incredibly nice staff. Beforemy trainback to Dublin,I make rainin Galway a snapdecision to dashinto Brown Thomas on EglintonStreet. Ordinarily I'm not one I learnedto loveGalway through the for spendinga bundleon clothesI can't afford, rain.As a studentsummering in the city but Galwayhas this strangeeffect on in the 1990s,I encounteredall kindsof me.As I handover my creditcard, I know Galwayrain: drizzly rain, teeming rain, I'll lookback on my purchasesand think mistyrain. Rain that stabbedyour face and fondlyof Galway,and be gladof my time leftyour shoes sodden. Rain that caressed there.And then I makea dashfor the train. you so softlyyou onlyrealised later that Whileit rains.Of courseit rains. evenyour belly button had waterin it. Roomsat the MeyrickHotel start at €98 Rainthat whenyou contemplatedthe per night. walkhome was a definitefactor in yourdecision Hotelmeyrick.ie to stayand have another Guinness in the pub withfriends. Rain that madeyou thinkof otherplaces, and abouthow sometimes ElaineO'Regan headed in thoseplaces, it did not, in fact, rain.Not like in Galway,where rain must fora family-runhotel in the be magicrain - becauseit shouldannoy Barrowvalley you,but instead,as witha spectacularlover withone greatflaw, it onlymade you further Our nocturnaltrip to Borrisin Co appreciateGalway's beauty and charm. Carlowbegan with a shortchauffeured Andso it makesperfect sense that, arriving drivefrom nearby Bagnelstown off the Dublintrain for a whistlestop trainstation to the family-run tripto Galway,the rain is spectacular.It's The Step House Hotel in Borris, Co Carlow:classically stylish throughout StepHouse Hotel, a 20-bedroom blindingrain, frantic rain, rain froma noir boutiqueaffair in the heartof the picturesque filmwhere someone has beenmurdered coursesthat includescorn-fed breast of smiles. Barrowvalley. andthe FBIare diggingup the bodyin chicken,duo of confitpork belly and scallops, Galwayis the kindof placewhere you Our chauffeuris localfarmer Terence, the blacknight through the mud.Rain that sirloinsteak and - my choice- a deliciousdrink pints till lateand you makefilms in whohas livedin Borrisall his life andis soaksme through,even though I've worn andperfectly presented sea trout, the morning,albeit possibly a littlelate in onlytoo happyto earna few extrabob ferrying my specialhat for thispurpose - a blue, witha fennel,apple and orangesalad and the morning.Life moves at a slowerclip StepHouse guests to and fromthe floppy,wide-brimmed affair - andwe're spinachand garlicpuree. Like Galway's renowned than in the capital,and that's entirelypart hotel.The work means a lot to him,as do just two minutes'walk from our accommodation Aniarrestaurant, the style,thoughtfulness of the charm.Writers, performers and artists the Coadys,the entrepreneurialfamily behind at the HotelMeyrick, a traditional andelegance evident in the food lovethe city,because the streetsthemselves the StepHouse, who, I am aboutto hotelnext to the station. andthe serviceis remarkableand impressive. echowith a loveof the arts:Charlie learn,are as proficientin businessas they We'realready late for dinner,so the Byrne'sbookshop, The Druid Theatre, are well-versedin the gentleart of old-style friendlyreceptionist, situated near a cheerful Later,in Neachtain'spub, squeezingin muralsof OscarWilde on the windowsof hospitality. fire,hands us an umbrellahe has stowed past a trad session,I run into oneof only pubs,the MacnasParade - the atmosphere It's a beguilingmix - onethat has us behindthe desk.(I'd imaginehe has seventy two peopleI knowin Galway.Olaf is here is intrinsicallycreative. feelingutterly relaxed and more than a little more,lined up like soldiers,in preparation.)with a bunchof musiciansand film-makers. Not to mentionrelaxing: an afternoon pampered.While guests are at the heartof Withgritty determination, and a decision"We're making a filmtomorrow at 9am," tea at the HotelMeyrick, where couples the family'sbusiness, the hotelitself is at notto botherchanging clothes (they'd he announces,introducing me with a sweep haverecently been invitedto takepart in the heartof the community,sourcing local onlyget wet)we set off forArtisan, a bijou of his armto his cohorts.But it's late, theirnew 'engagemint'tea, whichincludes ingredientswhere possible for seasonalrestaurant restaurantlocated above Tigh Neachtain on mindyou, and the pub is nearlyclosing. mintmacaroons and mint tea, allowsyou andbar menus. QuayStreet. "Areyou sureyou'll be up in the morning to watchthe worldgo by. It's a deeply Lambis boughtwhole from neighbouring The stereoplays Fleetwood Mac as we on time?"I wonderaloud. "Oh, we will," old-fashionedhotel, which won't be to farmers,and free-range chicken and choosefrom an enticingselection of main theyannounce with broad, indecipherable everyone'staste - particularlyif you're a Tamworthpigs from Ballon. The Coadys Sunday Business Post-Magazine Circulation: 44529 Sunday, 2 March 2014 Area of Clip: 807300mm² Page: 12,13,14,15,16.... Page 10 of 10

SusanMitchell braved the stormsto reachwest Cork

We arrivedat InchydoneyIsland whenone of the recentferocious III stormswas battering the coastline.We had even considered postponingthe trip after Met Eireann issuedan amberweather warning, but decided to pressahead. As we droveout fromClonakilty towards the 'island'via a narrowroad, we got a glimpseof the stunningcoastal views offeredby thishotel, which sits in between twowide beaches and has fantasticviews of the sea. Weparked the car andsat looking at sissi the wavesthat were crashing down on the beaches.It wasa mesmerisingsight. Thehotel itself is four-starwith a high levelof comfort.We were given a warm welcomeon arrivaland enjoyed a glassof IrishMist in the elegantreception area before beingshown to ourroom. Unsurprisingly,the hotelhas been designed to fullyexploit its stunninglocation. All roomshave balconies with views of the seaand the Gulfstreamrestaurant has panoramic views. Whilethe viewsare impressive,the key to this destination'sreputation lies elsewhere, in thethalassptherapy complex with its mosaicgrottos and salt water pools. This .• facility,which pumps heated water directly fromthe sea,is enormouslypopular. Swimming in waterat thistemperature is saidto allowthe poresof the skinexpand and the av .. bodyto absorbthe nutrientsand goodness fromthe seawater. - Thespa offers a numberof seawater treatments.I enjoyed a marinebody polish andseaweed wrap, followed by a luxurious facial(€110). My therapist was superb. My mother,who can't sit stillfor a nanosecond, wasequally blissed out after her sessionof pampering. Wespent most of theweekend enjoying the hotel'sfacilities, but ventured into Clonakiltyto watchone of the international rugbygames. is wortha visit.It has somegreat bars - De Barra's andScannells are firm favourites of this InchydoneyIsland in west Cork:a perfect place to do nothing In style reviewer- anda numberof topplaces to eat.I knowthis area well and have had a fewmeals in An Sugan;it's alwaysgood. foodand local produce. With main courses by Irishdesigner and furnituremaker Joseph do muchmore than walk along the windswept Deasy'sPub and Fish restaurant, which is a averaging€35, it is expensivebut well Walsh.A numberof Walsh'spieces beach,there is no shortageof activities. fewmiles outside the town,is alsosuperb. worththe treat. If you'relooking for something arealso visible in the lobby.While his Thehotel can arrange surfing, biking, Unfortunately,we decidedto try a new a littleless formal, try the lounge workis particularlyeye-catching, the care whalewatching, kayaking and hiking nearby. Thairestaurant. The food was okay, but menu.This is veryreasonably priced and andattention that has goneinto the decorin Sometimes,though, it's niceto do nothing the wineswere poor and overpriced, and I attractslocals in theirdroves. thishotel is evidentthroughout. You won't in style.And if you'reof thatmindset, won'tbe rushingback. Thelounge itself deserves special mention. walkmore than a few paceswithout spotting InchydoneyIsland Lodge and Spa certainly Thankfully,the hotelitself did deliver Wespent hours relaxing by the open somethingof interest,whether it's a won't disappoint. on the foodfront. We had a fantasticdinner firewith books. photograph,a painting, or a quirkyornament. Twonight bed and breakfasts with dinner in the Gulfstreamrestaurant, which has a It is reallycomfortable and also contains on oneevening is €245per personsharing. menuthat offers an abundanceof freshsea- a numberof fantasticpieces of woodwork Whilethe weatherdidn't allow us to inchydoneyisland.com

haveeven partnered with Goresbridge Theproperty has been in the familyfor calilliof vegetablesand poached pear, and Our staywas rounded off withan invigorating, CommunityGarden to sourceherbs, vegetables, five generations and remains a labourof confitof rabbitserved with smoked bacon sometimesterrifying, canoe tour of seedsand fruits. lovefor its currentowners. andmushrooms cream and parma ham. the Barrow,courtesy of Gowith the Flow Thefour-star hotel is situatedon Borris's At its heartis the 1808,a traditional Forour mains we optedfor the roast RiverAdventures. Barrelling down the Barrow's mainstreet, at "thetop of the town"opposite lounge-styleIrish bar that takes its name monkfish,which was servedwith a delicious weirsand waterfalls at white-knuckle the gatesof the MacMorroughKavanagh fromthe yearit wasestablished. From the duckcroquette, and Roast Kilmore speedsis oneway to workoff the excesses Estate.In its originalincarnation the momentwe arrivedon a chillyFriday night brilland scallop with localescargot - a of the StepHouse's generous menu, and hotelwas the dowerhouse for the MacMorroughuntil our departure on Sunday,it washeaving quirkyculinary experience for the uninitiated. enjoythe beautifulscenery surrounding Kavanaghs,and it servedas a guesthouse withlocal customers. Borris. for manyyears before reopening as Weheaded for The Cellar restaurant Followingrich and sumptuousdesserts If you'reafter something a littlemore sedate, a hotel. to samplethe French-inspiredmenu. The of pralineparfait and chocolatepave we you couldopt insteadto walkthe Barrow Its Georgianfafade and olive-green restaurantis housedin the kitchensof the werejust aboutdone in, andretired gratefully way,following the towpaththat runs frontagemake for a handsomefirst impression original old house, in a seriesof interconnected to ourvery comfortablebed. alongsidethe river,or followthe South andinside, the tastefuldecor continues. roomswith archways, vaulted ceilings TheStep House has 20 spaciousbedrooms Leinsterway, a long-distance64-mile walking Thehotel is comfortableand classically anda plushcocktail bar overhead. in all,with viewsof the neighbouring routerunning from Kildavin in Carlow stylishthroughout, but never too ChefFoley, formerly of ChapterOne and countryside,including Mount Leinster to Tipperary'sCarrick-on-Suir. ostentatiousfor the casualvisitor. PeacockAlley, is somethingof a virtuoso andthe Blackstairs mountains to the east, Overnightstays at the StepHouse Hotel Thedesign is largelydown to Cait in the kitchen,lending the StepHouse undeniable and the BarrowValley to the west. are availablefrom €55 per personmidweek, Coady,who runs the StepHouse with husband appealas a go-todestination on Somehave terraces, and others Juliet includingbreakfast, and €90 per James,sister-in-law Mary and children the culinarytrail. balconies.The hotel alsohas fiveself-catering person midweek with breakfast and one Aisleenand Alan Foley - Alanis also Forstarters, we tuckedinto Tom Salter's cottagesand apartments,and a penthouseevening meal. the hotel'shead chef. freerange pork belly en croutewith pic¬ suite. stephousehotel.ie,gowiththeflow. ie