In the Lands of the Basque Universe

"This great calm, this silence everywhere, this untouchable tranquility in the air, a stillness of light and shade, make me feel as if time has stopped its race through the centuries for just one moment of reflection, of waiting, or perhaps to look with melancholy to the past, to what has come before, races, ONDARRIBIA religions..." H Pierre Lotti. Echoes of . 1916. And Its Parador

T he first documents on the origin of indicate that the town was founded in 1500, as is recorded in the so-called Libro Grande, or Big Book, in the town hall archives. However, one of Felipe II's chroniclers claimed that the true origins "must date back more than two thousand years, its gates and walls, and some of its houses are evidence of its ancient origins...."

The prehistoric caves near the town of Rentería provide other, unwritten, evidence that people were already hunting, gathering, and fishing in this area some 35,000 years ago.

Not a few historians and chroniclers place the arrival of Vasconia's first settlers at around the time of the Great Flood. Tubal, son of Japheth and grandson of Noah, is said to have been the first to arrive in , just a century and a half after the Flood, settling with his people "in the , eventually expanding and spreading down into the valleys, into and other Basque areas..."

Although geographers, historians, and ethnographic experts - from ancient to modern, from Ptolemy and Pliny to Caro Baroja –are not always in agreement, what they do agree on is that this area has had a significant and intense impact on the history of the peninsula. It has absorbed, rather than exported, cultures and civilizations; conquests and reconquests; heresies, prophecies, and other miracles from the nearby hills, from the pilgrims' Route of Saint James; from witchcraft and other (gatherings of witches). And for centuries, there were always frontier wars.

The chronicles also show that Hondarribia has not always been in Guipuzcoa. At certain times in the past it formed part of Navarre, and it was not until the early 19th century that it joined Guipuzcoa again.

In the middle of all this activity, its identity was established at the beginning of the 13th century, when King Alfonso VIII granted it town status and the Charter of San Sebastian gave it jurisdiction over Irún, Lezo, and Pasajes de San Juan.

Since then the town has been awarded considerable privileges by the monarchs of Castile, sometimes in the form of tax exemptions and sometimes "granting safe passage to the traders who come to this port to buy fish for Navarre, or to ensure that no boats were favored more than those of Fuenterrabía..."

Other significant privileges and tax concessions would be granted by King Alfonso X, the Wise: "so that today's inhabitants and those of the future may better populate this town, we hereby remove all taxes and contributions forever..."

HONDARRINBIA AND ITS PARADOR 1 Other monarchs, such as Sancho the In the middle of the last century, Queen Brave, and the Isabel chose Donostia as her location of Catholic Monarchs, who unified Spain, choice to take the waters. And so San took similar measures. Felipe V granted Sebastian became a summer resort for the Hondarribia "permission to export up to aristocracy. Much later, Queen María a thousand tons of goods from the fleet Cristina was also an avid summer visitor. and galleons of the Indies free of charge, This may have contributed to attracting so that the profits may be used to repair another type of court, this one financial, buildings destroyed by the last as the wealthy of and Germany bombardment, while the town was sought rest and relaxation here. besieged by French forces in 1719..." And so for many reasons today's town of Since then, the history of this small, San Sebastian was born, reborn and has crowded region has sped into the modern flourished. era, with the coming of the Enlightenment, and progress.

Castle of Heroes and Spirits Sancho Abarca of Navarre, and was extended and fortified by King "I am a small river, but I have great charm and I am Sancho the Wise around the 12th century. However, its austere, more famous than many of my larger cousins. Strabo, though noble and elegant, façade, which still displays the scars of Ptolemy and Pliny have all spoken of me... I hold some many a battle, was built on the orders of Emperor Carlos V. of the severity of Navarre; some of the gentleness of Guipúzcoa and some of the courtesy of France..." The first historic document in existence concerning the castle (1802) states: "The royal palace is worthy of note. It has a square in Pío Baroja. El front where the troops drill. The building, which contains a vault, a platform and barracks for 850 beds, is attributed to Don Sancho T he ancient castle which houses today's Parador has seen Abarca, King of Navarre; its fortifying to Don Sancho the Strong and many changes during the course of its unnatural frontier the beautiful façade to Emperor Carlos V." history. It was due precisely to its location that it began life as a shelter and fortress between this peninsula, which is Spain, and Apparently, the part of the castle that was used as a palace was neighboring France. lower down, and was destroyed by French troops in 1794. Very little of it remains today. Some of the peninsula's most difficult However, this palace has received times have been experienced in this many illustrious visitors during the fortress –previously a walled compound course of its history: Admiral and subsequently a palace. Even the Oquendo, who served his sentence here Moorish invasion extended this far, as punishment for an irreverent reply although not with any strength. The given to the Council; the Duke of Alba, Route of Saint James passed through governor of the castle at the age of 18; here. Rights and privileges were won Garcilaso de la Vega; Beltrán de la here and the area has been visited by Cueva; the Marquis of Villena; the cultures and superstitions, tastes, styles Marquis of Spínola, conqueror of and refinements, all much more Breda, depicted by Velázquez in his European than Spanish. But it also painting "The Lances". suffered invasions. So the frontier brings a tension to Hondarribia; but it also This palace would also serve as a provides a balance. royal stopping place and accommodation for even more The old castle was built by King powerful figures. Thus it was the

2 HONDARRIBIA AND ITS PARADOR friendly and welcoming refuge of Carlos V, Felipe III and Felipe IV, in 1929 with the installation of an elevator (at a cost of 25,000 and Queen Isabel de Valois, Felipe II's third wife. pesetas). It was finally inaugurated as a Parador by General Franco himself in 1968. The passing of time eventually turned this fortress into beautiful but costly ruins, to such an extent that the local council renounced its Modernization has respected the numerous memories of a turbulent rights of usufruct and put it up for public auction. It remained in and splendid past filled with ghosts and legends. Not in vain has private hands until 1928, when the visiting Queen María Cristina was Hondarribia been known for centuries as the cradle of witches and horrified to discover that the castle was for sale, and expressed her akelarres. desire that it return to the control of the local council. And so this was done. The historic building's ransom totaled 145,000 pesetas. Should the visitor desire, in Reception you can find out more about "the numerous passages Soon afterwards, Miguel beneath the castle, which Primo de Rivera, President of some have entered, never to the Council of Ministers, had be seen again..." a plaque put up stating: "This castle, witness to the "The walls here creak at greatness of Spain at such a night." Among those who time as the sun never set over can bear witness to this fact its domains, will be one of the are the Parador's many archives of Spanish famous guests: civilization, whose light Sophia Loren, Paco Camino, continues to shine throughout Natalia Figueroa, Camilo the world." José Cela, and even A long and laborious Pompidou. restoration process was begun

A Walk along Seas, Mountains, and Frontiers

1. Church of Nuestra Señora de la Asunción. Gothic. 2. Stately homes and palaces in Nagusía Street. 3. La Marina area, with typical arratzale houses. 4. Pampinot, Mayor, San Nicolás and Tiendas Streets.

5. Sanctuary of Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe on 5 Mount Jaizkibel. 6 6. The beach. 7. Fishing port. 8. Santa María Gate.

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HONDARRINBIA AND ITS PARADOR 3 The Glorious of ways.

Sin of Gluttony As for fish and shellfish, there are all that you could possibly imagine (hake, bonito tuna, cod, baby cuttlefish, elvers, spider crabs, Halibut comes from the sea, and txangurro crabs. And there are other less common foods such as mutton from the land, eels, garfish, barnacles, pandora, sea snails, frogs' legs, and crabs. and chefs from Donostia. Popular Saying There are steaks and stews, especially oxtail, from the cattle that graze in the Pyrenees, and lamb is more common than pork.

ven for those with little Desserts abound, made with E interest in gastronomy, a visit walnuts, apples, and chestnuts, and to these parts will inevitably include such enticing choices as rice result in a foray into the indulgent sin pudding, tarts, and sponge cakes such of gluttony. Not without reason has as Panchineta, the Basque cake. Basque cuisine won over the world's Visitors will find any type of cheese the most discerning palates. However, they may desire, both local and as the Basques point out, their dishes French. are simple, made with what they have To drink, there are wines from the on hand: good, abundant, varied, high Álava region of the Rioja, local quality ingredients. "And everything Guipuzcoan txakolí, and cider. here is made with love." As visitors will already be aware, These strategic frontier lands also this Parador does not have a enjoy a strategic position in culinary restaurant. However, rather than terms: valleys and mountains, seas and being a disadvantage for the pilgrim, rivers, and a generous and mild climate. this is a blessing. Man does not live on museums, stones, and views Tender fruits and vegetables grow alone. here in abundance: white beans, broad beans, cardoons and cabbage...and potatoes, without which there would be no There are an abundance of shrines to gastronomy, virtually one Marmitako stew. around every corner. Look especially in port areas and in the old quarter of any town, in Donostia-San Sebastián, of course, but also in There are peppers, chestnuts, and apples for stews, desserts, Orio, Getaria, , Pasajes, and Saint Jean de Luz. ciders, and other sweet things. A wide range of restaurants and places to sample tapas and varied The wide variety of wild mushrooms deserve their excellent dishes is to be found just a few minutes from the Parador. Wild boar reputation. There are Perretxikos in the spring, Black and tenderloin, cod, sea bream, bonito tuna, hake, txangurro, spider Mushrooms, and Russulas, all of which are prepared in a variety crab, mushrooms, and other delicacies are all on offer. Ask for recommendations in Reception. You will not be disappointed.

Journey to the Heart of Guipúzcoa

Along the coast to the west of San Sebastián (Usúrbil, Aginaga, Orio, , Zumaia)

Usúrbil: (12 km. from San Sebastián): This is the heart of cider- making country. The town is located at the foot of Mount Irimo. Places to visit include the Church of San Salvador and Atxega Palace.

Aginaga: Famous for its eels.

Orio: Fishing harbor with interesting architectures. San Juan Beach and the Church of San Nicolás.

Zarautz: Important holiday resort with some of the best beaches

4 HONDARRIBIA AND ITS PARADOR in Guipuzcoa and interesting buildings: Narros Palace, Church of such as the Church of San Esteban (15th century), the Town Hall Nuestra Señora of Luzea... and the Itzea Mansion, owned by the Baroja family, where the writer Don Pío and his nephew, the academic Julio Caro, lived. Getaria: Famous fishing harbor where Juan Sebastián Elcano was born. : Traditional village. Church of San Martín de Tours.

Zumaia: House and museum of the painter Ignacio : The town is well worth a wander. The transept of the Zuloaga. Church of San Pedro with a magnificent altarpiece. Two Church of La Asunción is especially beautiful. beautiful beaches: Itzurun and Santiago. Narvarte and Lesaka: Fine examples of local rural architecture. Return to the Parador either by the motorway or, even better, continue to Itziar and its famous Shrine; to Deba with its Oieregi: Reaparecea Palace and nearby, the Bértiz Estate, Gothic church, declared a national monument; then on to , a now a Nature Reserve. typical , located on the border with Bizkaia. Bértiz Nature Reserve has more than two thousand hectares of A visit to the French Basque Country: (, Saint beech, oaks, and chestnuts populated by foxes, martens, deer, wild Jean de Luz, Biarritz) boar, mountain cats, blackbirds, goldfinches, and robins. There is also an exotic garden with waterfalls and 120 different species of trees Saint Jean de Luz: A maritime and shrubs. A Baztán mansion was built town. Visit the fishing port, the here in the last century, boasting a church where King Louis XIV of modernist style chapel. France was married, and the Casa del Rey (King's House). Zugarramurdi: and its satanic caves. Here, according to tradition, witches hold Biarritz: The Rock of the their akelarres. Forty local women were Virgin and the Lighthouse. This accused of witchcraft in 1611 and burned is a good place to walk, to enjoy at the stake. During the 16th and 17th the beach, and to eat. The Hotel centuries, the Inquisition sentenced many du Palais retains its turn-of-the- supposed witches and warlocks in this area century charm. of the Pyrenees.

The Bidasoa and A day trip to Lourdes (300 km. regatta route: (Bera de Bidasoa, round trip) is also possible from the Etxalar, Señoría de Bértiz, Zugarramurdi) Parador at Hondarribia, taking the route Hondarribia, , Pau, Lourdes. The Bidasoa is a trout-fishing river. The popular Bidasoa regattas are held on the river near Hondarribia (in Navarre).

Bera del Bidasoa: A beautiful village with remarkable buildings,

Parador de Hondarribia El Emperador Plaza de Armas, 14. 20280 Hondarribia (Guipúzcoa) Tel.: +34 943 64 55 00 - Fax: +34 943 64 21 53 e-mail: [email protected] Reservation Center Requena, 3. 28013 Madrid (España) Tel.: 902 54 79 79 - Fax: 902 52 54 32 www.parador.es / e-mail: [email protected] wap.parador.es/wap/

Text: Miguel García Sánchez Design: Fernando Aznar

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