Natural Areas of the Shawnee National Forest “Rare Baltimore checkerspot butterflies sail over rocky barrens; French’s shooting stars bloom under the drip zones of overhanging cliffs; streams flowing through the forest have intact fish and insect communities, sometimes visible only as ripples in the clear water or as adult insects newly emerged from the stream, quietly resting along the shoreline. Swallowtail butterflies find an interesting mix of nutrients along a woodland stream and congregate in numbers not to be believed.”

­­—Michael R. Jeffords Field Notes for Spring, 2011 Natural Areas of the Shawnee National Forest | 3 dry upland forest or water in of land area defined as “an which either ownership public or private to a substan- or has recovered retains its original natural charac- tial degree though it need not be completely ter, undisturbed, or has floral, faunal, or of state significance.” ecological features jargon, the bureaucratic Notwithstanding entered when they have individuals know A further a special place in the forest. is called a designation in the Shawnee Area—permanently Natural Research to maintain biological diversity protected and places for research and to provide monitoring of undisturbed natural areas. names like LaRue-Pine evocative With Hollow, and Panther Pond Hills/Otter locations worth a visit. they are Today, L. William Natural Southern is dramatic, dynamic, and the forest beautiful. special places in the are Areas Natural the habitat, that still reflect Shawnee before present plant, and animal diversity is settlement. A natural area European oak and hickory, primarily dominated by as the diversity tree but supporting great and landforms vary. moisture though the majority of the original Even 1–10 times, has been logged from forest of as noted in a 1931 report and much of it farmed for over Barker, of its designa- with the advent 100 years, 1933, the in Forest tion of a National long recovery. began it’s Shawnee The a mantle of trees Today, occupies an The Shawnee steep-sided ravines are The deep, the Shawnee could define a single word If be most would diversity Forest, National appropriate. - the Il just south of where of Illinois area - stopped during the Pleis linoian Glacier ago). Here (~120,000 years tocene Epoch sandstone, limestone, and shale massive escarpments stand ancient, weathered, and exposed. most of the landscape. Glades, covers is at or near the surface, the rock where ledges rock in the forest; open areas are inhospitable places where windswept, are the edges and in only around grow trees cracks and faults in the the ever-widening rock. jungles of American beech, ma- verdant species. ple, and a host of other tree though, is the forest, factor, overarching

Where Does the Shawnee Fit Into the Biology of Illinois?

boudary of the Shawnee Scientists have divided the terrestrial part National Forest of the earth into large ecological regions called biomes. Examples of worldwide biomes include tropical rainforest, Asian steppes, African savanna, and a host of others. The North American con- tinent also has biomes, such as the Arctic tundra, Sonoran desert, and Appalachian forest. Illinois, too, has had its landscape divided, not into biomes, but into regions called Natural Divi- sions. The natural divisions of Illinois were presented in 1973 in a technical report authored by then state botanist John Schwegman Satellite image of and colleagues. They pro- showing much of the Shawnee National Forest area. posed that Illinois be divided into 14 Natural Divisions based on such characteristics as glacial history, soil type, topography, climate, and the distribution of native plants and animals. These 14 divisions were further subdivided into 33 subdivi-

sions. Over the years, Illinois’ natural Natural Areas of the Shawnee National Forest | 5 divisions have proven very useful to the natural area preservation movement within the state. They help biologists cat- egorize and prioritize Illinois’ 90+ natural habitats for preservation and restora- Natural Division tion efforts. The Shawnee Hills Natural Division encompasses a good portion of southern Illinois, including all of the Shawnee National Forest.

boundary of the Shawnee Left, old growth forest National Forest Importance of Natural Areas

Other than for their beauty and aca- demic interest, why are natural areas important?

• Natural areas are the genetic banks for the area’s biodiversity. They are both reservoirs for the species that should be present and also the templates or reference points we must use for our habitat restoration efforts.

• Natural areas cannot be separated from the organisms that depend on them for survival.

• Natural areas in Illinois are our biological heritage, equally as important as our rich collection of cultural, historic sites.

If one were to pick a single area of Illinois to experience nature at its finest, the Shawnee National Forest would be an excellent place to begin. How Do We Know About the Natural Areas of Illinois? —The First Natural Areas Inventory and the Update Natural Areas In the Shawnee National Forest Illinois’ natural areas were once familiar vation of Illinois’ vanishing, rare habitats only to biologists, certain landowners and the plant and animals they harbor. The Shawnee is significant to the In- who recognized how different that small ventory for a number of reasons: patch of woods or prairie was on their On July 1, 2007, a new project to update land, and a handful of natural resource the Illinois Natural Areas Inventory • the Shawnee is the second largest professionals. These sites were remi- (INAI) began. Its mission was to develop owner of natural areas listed on the niscent of conditions in Illinois before a contemporary list of natural areas of Inventory, encompassing a wide European settlement and ranged in size biological significance, based on current diversity of sites; from several thousand acres of wetlands Illinois landscapes using the best available along the in southern Illinois scientific techniques. The INAI Update • it harbors a considerable percent- to tiny prairie patches existing along rail systematically screened the entire state to age of Illinois’ rarest biological lines or in pioneer cemeteries scattered find, evaluate, classify, and map addition- resources. Almost 10% of all the Il- throughout the state. To determine how al natural areas. Even though Twenty-first linois Natural Areas Inventory sites much of Illinois’ natural lands remained, Century technology—remote sensing, are located in the Shawnee; a statewide Natural Areas Inventory was Geographic Information Systems, and conducted from 1975 to 1978. It docu- digital imaging—is a prominent com- • in nearly a dozen cases, the mented nearly 1,200 sites across Illinois ponent for the update, it is important to Shawnee supports the only known that were biologically significant. This note that all sites were visited by scien- examples of natural community inventory was a remarkable accomplish- tists. On-the-ground experts assessing and types in Illinois, and these sites are ment and a unique undertaking for an making the final judgments on the overall irreplaceable. area of the size and complexity of Illinois. quality of a natural community remain Over the last few decades, the inventory the most important step in the process. has been an important tool in the conser- Natural Areas of the Shawnee National Forest | 7

Far left, eastern tailed blue; left, a dry Shawnee forest; left inset photos, clockwise from upper left, White-breasted Nuthatch, Wood Thrush, gray treefrog, French’s shooting star, elephant stag beetle, milk snake, Azalea in bud, gray squirrel; above, barrens; right, sharp-lobed hepatica Hepatica acutiloba. oak-hickory forest–spring Dutchman’s Breeches Understanding Natural Communities in the Shawnee National Forest

Perhaps the best way to understand the by oaks, the species composition varies natural areas of the Shawnee is with a considerably. Post, blackjack and scarlet list, a brief description, and images of the oaks dominate the driest sites; the some- broad habitat types that are present. what moister sites include post, blackjack, black and white oaks, and various hicko- Upland Forest ries. Further down the moisture slope, moist upland forest Forests are certainly the most wide- we find the typical “oak-hickory” forests spread and diverse natural communities dominated by black, white, northern red in the Shawnee, and upland forests domi- oak, and various hickories—shagbark and nate. Upland forests are, simply, those pignut. This is the most widespread forest that do not flood. Several distinct types type in the region. On the moister sites, occur, however, based on the amount of tree diversity increases and the trees grow moisture available and quality of the soil. straight and tall with few lower branches A gradient from extremely dry (xeric) and a well-developed understory. Tree to moist sites occurs within the forest. species here include American beech, Although all sites are mostly characterized sugar maple, northern red oak, tulip pop-

Indian Pink oaks in winter Dutchman’s Breeches luna moth

lar, river birch, and sycamore. The un- occurs in the understory species: lizard’s derstory and herbaceous layers also vary tail and cardinal flower are two promi- across these forest types with the greatest nent examples. On the wettest sites, the diversity found on the moister sites. canopy trees grow well, but are gener- ally shorter than on better-drained sites. Bottomland Forest Common species are sweetgum, honeylo- Bottomland forests occur along streams cust, black walnut, and silver maple. The that are subject to periodic flooding and shrub layer is sparse, but the herbaceous form distinct communities. Tree diversity layer can be quite thick and includes is much lower as only species that are poison ivy, giant cane, various sedges, and adapted to flooding persist here. greenbriar. moist upland forest Moist floodplain forests occur along major streams in the Shawnee. On land Woodlands that has more rugged topography and Distinguishing woodlands from forests steeper-sided valleys, the flood episodes may seem like “splitting hairs,” but the are short and infrequent. Dominant trees distinction is quite real. Woodland is are white oak, sugar maple, and American a dry community dominated by trees, beech, but also include black walnut, grasses, and forbs. The tree height seldom Natural Areas of the Shawnee National Forest | 9 white ash, bur oak, and pecan. The real exceeds 50 feet and the trees, even though distinction in this forest type, however, they are the same species found in for-

larkspur bottomland forest Red-bellied Woodpecker moss and blackjack oak on sanndstone woodland fire for management

ests, have a very different growth form. Barrens owe their existence to a delicate Woodland trees have a highly branched balance of natural forces that prevent trunk with spreading limbs. Some call them from becoming a typical forest them “wolf trees.” The most prominent community. Unlike forests, where trees species are post and blackjack oak and dominate, in a barrens community the black hickory. The canopy is very open, herbaceous layer is equally as important as the shrub layer is sparse and dominated the trees. The landscape has many vines, by farkleberry, while the herbaceous layer lichens, and mosses scattered about in contains woodland sunflower, little blue- patches of open ground, and surface rocks celandine poppy stem, and various asters. Fire is extremely contribute to the unstable, often poor important in maintaining this commu- soil conditions. Barrens may be located nity type. on sandstone, limestone, or shale. The plant communities, however, remain very Barrens diverse with white, post, and blackjack While the term “barrens” may provide oaks common (although all are scattered, a distinct impression that might deter a stunted, and limby). The herb layer has visitor into thinking the site is not worth farkleberry, little bluestem, Venus’ looking visiting, nothing could be further from glass, purple milkweed, Indian pink, New the truth. Barrens are unique communi- Jersey tea, and a host of other species. ties, rich in life and complex in structure. Animals include Baltimore checkerspot

shaggy mane mushrooms

barrens moist upland forest woodland fire for management long-tailed salamander

butterflies and eastern hognose snakes. Fire mon herbs include American featherfoil, is a critical management tool to restore and copper iris, and kidneyleaf mud plantain. manage these communities. Seep Swamp While wetlands are relatively uncom- Swamps are rare communities, as mon in the Shawnee, seeps and springs might be expected in an area of rolling to do occur in the bottomlands of the Ohio, rugged topography that characterizes the Mississippi, and Cache rivers and scattered Shawnee. In fact, they only occur in the along tributary streams that traverse the LaRue-Pine Hills Research Natural Area. forest. Springs are limited to the LaRue- American featherfoil Two types of swamps are found here: Pine Hills area, but acid seeps are scattered typical freshwater, woody communities through the Cretaceous Hills. These seeps dominated by trees with surface water support sphagnum moss and are acidic for most or all of the year, and shrub in nature, obtained from the Cretaceous swamps, where trees are less evident. gravels the water flows through. These Typical tree species for both types include unique habitats are found along small

bald cypress, water tupelo, pumpkin ash, stream floodplains or flow from the slopes Natural Areas of the Shawnee National Forest | 11 and Drummond’s red maple. Typical of the rolling landscape. Interesting organ- shrub species are Virginia sweetspire, isms found here include cinnamon fern, swamp rose, and buttonbush. Uncom- royal fern, cardinal flower, cranefly orchid,

swamp with water tupelo and bald cypress moist upland forest tiger beetles

Garden of the Gods rock formation

phantom cranefly, red-banded hairstreak cliffs. Typical plants of dry sandstone butterfly, and the uncommon gray petal- sites include alumroots, spleenworts, and tail dragonfly. lichens. The moister sites have walking fern, clubmosses, wild hydrangea, and Cliff partridgeberry. Limestone cliffs along the Vertical rock faces in the Shawnee are Mississippi and Ohio rivers have a some- certainly common and share the follow- what more diverse flora. Frequent species ing characteristic: they have virtually no include red columbine, cleft phlox, and soil, although sand can be found on ledg- various ferns. Where the cliff faces are natural rock arch es and along the bases. They do diverge, hollowed out, ledges overhang the land however, when we consider the type of below to create sheltered microclimates rock—sandstone or limestone—and the that are moister and darker. Here we find degree of wetness they exhibit. The mois- French’s shooting star and large colonies ture gradient is determined by the aspect of antlion larvae with their characteristic (direction in which they face) and the pits. types of surrounding natural communi- ties. The plant communities are relatively Glades uniform across the Shawnee, with the Glades differ from barrens by having north- and east-facing cliffs somewhat more exposed bedrock and a variety of more lush than south- and west-facing mosses and lichens. They may be either

fern-covered cliff face

wolf trees pale purple coneflowers sandstone or limestone. In areas of high The typical animals found in dry caves visitation, the glades are often trampled include cave crickets and various species and little but bare rock remains. Prickly of bats. Wet or aquatic caves have pools, pear cactus is commonly found, as is streams, and waterfalls. Typical inhabit- sedum. Limestone glades can be quite ants include spring cavefish and various spectacular with displays of eastern purple invertebrates (most colorless) adapted for coneflower, wild hyacinth, and New the cave habitat. Jersey tea. Eastern red cedar and blackjack oak may dominate and interesting ani- sandstone overhang mals include the lichen grasshopper, the with small cave entrance rock-loving crane fly, and olive hairstreak butterfly.

Cave Cave communities have two common features—a total absence of light and no green plants. They may be wet or dry, and Natural Areas of the Shawnee National Forest | 13 most have an intact fauna adapted for living in this unique environment. Most are found in limestone in the Shawnee. Baltimore checkerspot cave-dwelling moth Pine Hills limestone cliff

Piney Creek Ravine sandstone ledge The Shawnee—A Haven for Threatened and Endangered Species Protection and Stewardship

The Shawnee National Forest is one of While the Shawnee National Forest the largest contiguous blocks of public is public land and is protected from land in Illinois, and due to the diversity development in many ways, its natural of its habitats and landforms, it comes areas, and the forest itself, needs more as no surprise that a large number of the than just protection. Over eons, the forest state’s threatened and endangered species and its various habitats have developed in live here. We currently know of nearly response to environmental factors such 400 plants and animals that fall either as weather patterns, fire, and grazing. in the state’s threatened (a species that is During the last two centuries, though, likely to become endangered in the near relatively large numbers of humans, future) or endangered (a species in danger mostly of European origin, have moved of extinction) categories. In addition, into and across the Shawnee, often alter- federally listed species, such as Mead’s ing the landscape and its environmental milkweed, occur in the Shawnee. patterns to fit their own needs. Fire patterns within the forest were drastically These plant and animal species whose altered (often eliminated), the land was populations are declining or that have cleared for agriculture, while dozens of become so rare as to put their continued exotic, often invasive species were intro- survival at risk deserve special attention. duced and spread across the land. While These species are important members all three factors can forever change an of our biological heritage and must be ecosystem, active management by forest preserved. As E.O. Wilson so eloquently service and state personnel can ameliorate stated, “They are a magic well of eons old these changes and return portions of the information.” We must remember that landscape to pre-European settlement extinction is forever and is irreversible conditions. Such active management and when it occurs. restoration activities as restoring normal

fire regimes and removing exotic, invasive Natural Areas of the Shawnee National Forest | 15 species (e.g., kudzu, honeysuckle) are far better alternatives than to either lose these habitats forever or to try to recreate them. The Shawnee, its stakeholders, and the state of Illinois must work cooperatively to form a resilient network of natural areas for research and for the sheer enjoy- ment of this resource that we call the Shawnee National Forest. Upper left, Black-crowned Night-Heron, (state endangered); center left, eastern ribbon snake Thamnophis sauritus (state threatened); bottom left, kidney leaf mud plantain Heteranthera reniformis (state endangered). Booklet written and photographed by Michael R. Jeffords and Susan Post, and designed by Carolyn Peet Nixon, of the Illinois Natural History Survey, a division of the Prairie Research Institute of the University of Illinois