1 The Best of

Until recently, July and August in Croatia belonged to Germans and Italians, who clogged border crossings in their annual migration to the country’s endless beaches and clear blue sea. Finally, the rest of the world has discovered Croatia’s charms: its wealth of Roman ruins, medieval hilltop castles, and staggering cache of natural won- ders. Even though the summer crowds are now larger and more diverse, it still is possible to find a secluded cove or patch of beach where it seems you’re the only person on Earth. When all the name-brand hotels are filled, there always is a room waiting in a private home where the landlord welcomes you like a long-lost friend. Every town and village has at least one restaurant where the locals hang out and where the slice of life you get with your meal is the best dessert there is. In Croatia, each build- ing has a story that adds another facet to this gem of a country. This chapter is a “road map,” directing you to some of our favorites. We know you’ll add to the list when you find some of your own.

1 THE BEST TRAVEL EXPERIENCES

• Listening to the Sea Organ (): piped-in commentary make the experi- Waves create music as they move water ence creepy but riveting. See p. 237. through this organ’s undersea pipes. • Watching the Sunrise over Town Add a set of white stone steps leading Harbor (Vis): Vis Town and its harbor into the crystal water above the sub- were the view from our balcony at the merged organ and shooting beams of Bellevue Apartments in the hills above. light from sister installation Greeting It was a perfect vantage point for wit- to the Sun on Zadar’s Riva. The result nessing a kaleidoscope of color washing is a matchless venue to enjoy a multi- over the landscape as the sun moved media symphony courtesy of the sea above the horizon each morning. At and sky. See p. 171. night everything was black and gray, • Viewing Mummies (Vodjnan): They then just before dawn, the scene was look a little like skeletons shrink- painted in liquid gold. Pinks and blues wrapped in leather, and they are billed were next, and finally the buildings and as the mortal coils of holy people who sea came into focus in silver, turquoise, died centuries ago but miraculously and red. It was such a glorious sight that never decomposed.COPYRIGHTED You can’t get too we wereMATERIAL up before dawn every day just close to these relics because viewing to catch the show. distance is restricted. You can, however, • Exploring the Village of Hum (): recognize these mummies as former It calls itself the smallest town in the human beings even in the dimly lighted world, and population-wise, it might area behind the altar of St. Blaise be. But so many people visit this village Church in Vodjnan. Soulful back- high in the Istrian interior that it always ground music and overly dramatic seems crowded. The village fathers have

004_541289-ch01.indd4_541289-ch01.indd 1 33/29/10/29/10 77:50:50 PMPM 2 done a wonderful job of restoring the or the sculpture-rich arcades on either buildings in town to make it tourist- side of the entrance. See p. 285. friendly. See p. 269. • Descending into Iločki Podrumi • Strolling Through Mirogoj Cemetery (Ilok): You’ll get the chills from two (Zagreb): As much sculpture garden as sources in this second-oldest wine cellar burial ground, this 19th-century ceme- in Croatia: the temperature and the his- tery was designed by architect Hermann tory. The cellar was looted by the Serbs Bollé. It is home to Croatian patriots, during the Homeland War, but not common folk, and people of all faiths before the owners concealed bottles of and nationalities. The tombstones range the best vintages behind a false wall. from small and simple to enormous and Today those bottles are out of hiding elaborate, but each is a story in itself. and on display along with the barrels Don’t miss the black granite slab at the and vats used to store the winery’s new- grave of former president Franjo Tuđman est vintages. See p. 361.

2 THE BEST NATURAL WONDERS

• Plitvice Lakes National Park Kornati’s offshore underwater land- THE BEST OF CROATIA OF BEST THE (145km/90 miles southwest of Zagreb): scape. Its rock formations support 1 Plitvice is Croatia’s best-known natural flourishing flora and fauna. See p. 183. wonder. The park’s 16 crystal-clear, • National Park (btw. Zadar turquoise lakes and countless waterfalls and Karlobag): Paklenica’s raw beauty is put on a great show. The lakes flow into best appreciated by hikers and nature one another and tumble over deposits lovers. But even motorists respect the of travertine, creating waterfalls that imposing Velebit peaks because the drop a few feet or plunge as much as limestone cliffs that soar above deep 64m (210 ft.). All this beauty is set in a gorges and dense vegetation are visible dense forest accessed via footpaths and for miles from nearby highways. Even populated by bears and wild boar. See from afar you can see cave openings and p. 315. imagine what’s inside. See p. 177. • Kornati National Park (part of the • Krka National Park (less than half an Zadar Archipelago): Kornati’s 140 hour from Šibenik): The park was THE BEST NATURAL WONDERS NATURAL BEST THE islands are really the tops of mountains formed to protect the Krka River, that were above sea level 20,000 years which runs from its source near Knin to ago but now are mostly submerged. the sea near Šibenik. The river has cre- One side of each island is rocky and ated a series of spectacular gorges, lightly blanketed with vegetation (a few waterfalls, lakes, and rapids on its trip grapevines and olive trees). The side through the mountains. The jaw-drop- facing the sea is a sheer rock wall known pingly steep Skradinski Buk and Roški as a “crown” that plunges almost 76m Slapovi are the most impressive. (250 ft.) straight into the water. Sixty- Between the two are Lake Visovac and nine species of butterflies live here. Visovac Island, home to a Franciscan Perhaps the most interesting part is monastery. See p. 186.

004_541289-ch01.indd4_541289-ch01.indd 2 33/29/10/29/10 77:50:50 PMPM 3 3 THE BEST OPENAIR MARKETS

• Dolac (Zagreb): The urban market is wall of ’s Palace from the Riva above the main square at the foot of to the Silver Gate. Pazarin has the usual Old Town, but it is more than just a assortment of produce plus a variety of place to buy fruits and veggies. Dolac is textiles and the country’s most persua- a crossroads where people come to see sive vendors. See p. 109. and be seen; to trade gossip; and to • Bjelovar (Bjelovar): This market is relax with a cup of coffee. Morning is quite civilized and partially covered. It the best time to visit because that’s is noteworthy as the place where farm- when the bread is freshest, the displays ers from Croatia’s agricultural belt bring THE BEST OF CROATIA the prettiest, and the people the most their best produce, dairy products, fish, interesting. See p. 278. and meat every day. The market is at its • Pazarin (Split): Pazarin is reminiscent busiest from 7am to noon, but a few of a Turkish bazaar in looks, sounds, vendors stay open until 6pm or so. The and smells. Booths and tables line both later it gets, the lower the prices go. See sides of Hrvojeva Street outside the east p. 343.

4 THE BEST SMALL HOTELS & INNS 1

• Hotel San Rocco (Brtonigla): San Roc- the person of Kukuljica’s owners. It’s a THE BEST SMALL HOTELS & INNS co’s location deep in Istria adds to the revelation of culture, food, and hospi- romance in its lovingly restored stone tality. See p. 82. buildings and grounds. Flowers, olive • Hotel Waldinger (Osijek): Waldinger groves, and an assortment of ruins com- packs a lot of elegance into its 18 prise the hotel’s sensual “curb appeal.” rooms, each of which drips with period But it’s really the beautifully put elegance in the heart of a city that has together guest rooms with their mélange not altogether recovered from the of antique and modern touches, the Homeland War. From here you easily inviting pool, and the magnificent can walk to the banks of the Drava, gourmet restaurant that seal the deal. shop the city market, and explore medi- See p. 254. eval Tvrđa. See p. 353. • Lešič Dimitri Palace (Korčula): Each • Hotel Boškinac (Novalja, Pag Island): of the six pied-à-terre in this lavishly Boškinac is in the middle of nowhere renovated urban palace has a personal- even for Pag, but that’s part of its ity of its own and each is drenched in charm. The country-chic hotel is sur- luxury. Privacy, elegance, and whimsy rounded by gardens, olive groves, vine- are built into each unit, any of which yards, and forest, far from the madding would be a fitting home for royalty in weekenders who descend on nearby Manhattan or Marrakesh. See p. 146. Novalja all summer long. Boškinac’s • Villa Kukuljica (Zaton Mali): Villa K restaurant is one of most food-forward is a modest inn compared to most of in Croatia, and the wines from its vine- the splashy accommodations in the yards are prized all over the country. See area, but in a single night its p. 163. authenticity made a lasting impression. • Hotel Palazzo (Poreč): When the Hotel Experience real Croatian hospitality in Riviera opened a century ago, it was

004_541289-ch01.indd4_541289-ch01.indd 3 33/29/10/29/10 77:50:50 PMPM 4 standing on Istria’s first landfill. Today personality of its own, complete with the Riviera has been reincarnated in the cleverly designed windows carved into same spot with all its original charm the stone walls to reveal views of various and elegance. It’s the Palazzo now, with aspects of Old Town. See p. 112. the soul of 1910 in a 2010 body, a • Valsabbion (Pula): This hedonistic heady combination of history, romance, experience is not to be missed. The and comfort. See p. 249. hotel’s seven rooms, three suites, and • Hotel Vestibul Palace (Split): The spa are decorated with flair in a breezy, Roman Empire meets the 21st century romantic style that carries over to its at the Palace, where most rooms share exquisite restaurant, one of the best in at least part of a wall built by Diocle- Croatia. You might come here for the tian. History and gourmet delights beach, but you’ll stay for the food and align to make this one of the best hotel the pampering. See p. 233. experiences in Croatia. Each room has a

5 THE BEST BIG LUXURY HOTELS

• The Regent Esplanade (Zagreb): The rooms, spa, casino, and high-design

THE BEST OF CROATIA OF BEST THE most gracious hotel in Croatia com- public areas contribute luxury, and its pares favorably with luxury hotels in marina, tennis courts, and pools make 1 New York and Paris for a fraction of the it a destination hotel. If you are looking cost. From rich furnishings in the guest for a place you don’t have to leave to rooms to a concierge who is a gallant have fun, this is it. See p. 112. repository of Croatian history, a stay at • Monte Mulini (Rovinj): The Monte the Esplanade is an experience you’ll Mulini is Rovinj’s first true luxury never forget. See p. 290. hotel. Even the lowest priced room has • Hilton Imperial (Dubrovnik): This is a huge glamour bathroom with a the U.S. chain’s first foray into Croatia. shower that is separate from the tub and Rather than build a hotel from scratch, an array of designer toiletries. MM’s Hilton had the wisdom to restore what world class restaurants, services, and a was salvageable from Dubrovnik’s historic people-centric staff cater to guests’ 19th-century Imperial and graft a mod- every whim. The spa is the ultimate in

THE BEST BIG LUXURY HOTELS LUXURY BIG BEST THE ern hotel onto the base. Every detail has decadence with a floating bath filled been taken care of, and you’ll be treated as with water that has such a high concen- an honored guest here. See p. 76. tration of salt that you stay suspended • Excelsior (Dubrovnik): We love the in water no matter how hard you try to Excelsior for its understated profile and touch bottom. See p. 241. for the way it channels the graceful ele- • Radisson BLU (Orašac): Orašac is 1 gance of the 1930s in style and attitude. 12km (7 ⁄2 miles) from Dubrovnik and an Every service is personalized and every idyllic spot for getting away from it all visitor is treated as if he or she is the without going too far. The nice thing hotel’s guest of honor. In Dubrovnik’s about the BLU is that you never have to frenetic tourism environment, that is leave its lavishly landscaped grounds. You no small feat. See p. 77. can veg out right there and still experience • Le Meridien Lav (Split): Le Meridien’s Dalmatia’s natural beauty, fine food, and seaside location in Podstrana, 20 min- hospitality. Even better, the BLU provides utes from Split’s Old Town, gives it a all the above while being environmentally resort feel. Its spacious, well-appointed responsible. See p. 78.

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• Pula Amphitheater (Pula): Smaller into the Earth for a couple of centu- than Rome’s coliseum but in much bet- ries. Do not approach without sturdy ter shape, the amphitheater is more walking shoes, sunscreen, and a full accessible to tourists than its Rome water bottle. See p. 118. counterpart. Don’t miss the restored • Diocletian’s Palace (Split): Diocletian underground chambers and their exhib- built his estate on a scale so grand it was its featuring Istrian history. And if converted into a city after he died, but you’re in town when a concert is sched- its landscape has been tinkered with so uled, get a ticket no matter who is much during the last 15 centuries that THE BEST OF CROATIA headlining. See p. 230. the character of the original complex • Salona (): The grandeur that was has been all but obliterated. What Rome still is evident in the crumbling remains of the palace and what has been buildings and foundations of this for- built on its footprint is now Split’s Old mer outpost of the empire. It isn’t dif- Town. If you walk around it, through ficult to imagine what Salona looked it, and under it enough, you’ll begin to like in its prime, but it is tough to understand Diocletian’s enormous ego. imagine why Salona was left to sink See p. 107. 1

7 THE BEST BEACHES THE MOST CHARMING RUSTIC VILLAGES

• Baška (Krk Island): This is a sun-lover’s the Croatia ads, usually in an aerial paradise, with more than 30 beaches of view. From above, Zlatni Rat resembles varying size and a promenade that skirts a green finger rimmed with sand and most of them. Baška’s beaches once tipped with a curling tendril extending were sand, but now the sand is covered into the sapphire sea. From ground with pebbles that extend a few feet into level, it is a sun-blasted, pebbled land- the water. See p. 210. scape covered with a huge international • Novalja (Pag Island): Any cove off crowd soaking up the rays and the local Novalja can be a private beach. The culture. See p. 129. water offshore is so clear you can see the • Orebić (Pelješac Peninsula): Orebić is a white, sandy bottom 6m (20 ft.) below. civilized place where families linger If you have a boat, drop anchor for a together and, at the end of the day, Mom while, take a dip, and let your stress brings covered bowls full of fruit down float away. See p. 161. to kids who don’t want to leave their • Zlatni Rat (Brač Island): Visit this sand castles and snorkels. The water is beach just so you can say you did. This warm, the sun constant, and the people is the famous strip that appears in all as nice as they come. See p. 94.

8 THE MOST CHARMING RUSTIC VILLAGES

• Kumrovec in the Zagorje region is like famous son, Josip Broz Tito, was born a Croatian Williamsburg, Virginia, in the late 19th century. Some of the with restored cabins and barns fur- rustic buildings in this open-air nished as they were when Croatia’s most museum contain photos and displays,

004_541289-ch01.indd4_541289-ch01.indd 5 33/29/10/29/10 77:50:50 PMPM 6 while others feature docents in tradi- the surrounding Međimurje region. tional costumes who explain weaving, From Štrigova, you can explore the roll- candle making, and some of the crafts ing vineyards and wineries of northern of the times. See p. 320. Croatia. See chapter 11. • Čigoć is known as the “Stork Place” • Hlebine, in the north-central part of because of the long-legged birds that inland Croatia, is home to a colony of perch atop roofs in this Lonjsko Polje nearly 200 painters and sculptors, the village. The storks are the hook that country’s naive art movement, and the gets tourists to stop in the middle of the ateliers of Josip and Ivan Generalić. It is marsh, but the historic cabins and natu- the cradle of the naive art movement in ral surroundings keep them there for Croatia. Many works from these artists hours. See p. 336. are on display in the town’s galleries, • Štrigova isn’t exceptionally rustic, but it one of which is the Generalić home. See is a quaint launching pad for a visit to p. 340.

9 THE BEST CATHEDRALS & CHURCHES

• Holy Cross Church (Nin): Holy Cross • St. Donatus (Zadar): Notable for its THE BEST OF CROATIA OF BEST THE is the oldest church in Croatia and also unusual shape (circular inside), St. 1 the world’s smallest cathedral, accord- Donatus is void of decoration. The ing to posted signs. According to one church is no longer used for Mass, but scientist, the little white stone church is its great acoustics make it a hot venue also a giant sun dial and was con- for classical concerts. Like other structed according to mathematical cal- churches of its time (9th c.), Donatus is culations. See p. 179. one of several buildings in a clerical • Euphrasian Complex (Poreč): complex. See p. 171. A must-see sight in this city of superla- • Church of St. Mary (Beram): This tives, the UNESCO World Heritage chapel in the woods is so small and so THE BEST CASTLES BEST THE church is the last of four that were built remote that you would never notice it if on top of each other. One of the basili- it weren’t in a guidebook. But St. Mary’s ca’s premier attractions is the collection remoteness is what protected the eye- of Byzantine on display. popping frescoes that dance on its walls. Euphrasius is not just one church, but a You’ll need to pick up one of the series of church buildings, each with its church’s keepers in Beram and drive her own story. See p. 247. to the chapel in the woods so she can unlock it. See p. 260.

10 THE BEST CASTLES

• Pazin Kaštel (Istria): One of the best- controlled the castle at the time. What preserved castles in Istria, this is a sur- may be Croatia’s best ethnographic prising “must-see” in the Istrian interior. museum is inside. See p. 261. Pazin Kaštel is next to one of the scari- • Stari Grad (Varaždin): The Gothic est-looking gorges ever, a feature that defensive complex includes was conveniently utilized as a dumping a castle and the Varaždin Town ground (literally) for enemies of whoever Museum. As a whole, Stari Grad is this

004_541289-ch01.indd4_541289-ch01.indd 6 33/29/10/29/10 77:50:50 PMPM town’s best attraction. The • Trakoščan Castle (near Varaždin): 7 museum is an excellent showcase for North of Zagreb is one of Croatia’s artwork and historical items. Multilin- most visited sites and one of its most gual docents are happy to help visitors. impressive castles—from the outside. See p. 328. The grounds are extensive and the • Veliki Tabor (Zagorje Region): North structure itself is everything you’d of Zagreb is an imposing, solid brick expect a storybook castle to be—stone fortress that looks like the place Rapun- walls, turrets, a drawbridge—but inside, zel let down her hair. Veliki Tabor has renovations have been less than meticu- its own legends, including murder, lous and sometimes border on tacky. mayhem, and a ghost. While the exte- However, Trakoščan is worth the trip if rior of the 12th-century structure looks for no other reason than to ponder the THE BEST OF CROATIA like it could withstand a nuclear attack, plastic deer mounted on the walls out- the inside is still in the process of reno- side the entrance. See p. 326. vation. See p. 322.

11 THE BEST RESTAURANTS

• Valsabbion (Pula): Valsabbion is so wowed) with every bite (and every sip avant-garde that it defies categorization. of IQ wine). See p. 297. It is innovative yet traditional; stylish yet • Zinfandel’s (Regent Esplanade, Zagreb): 1

not overly so; a mecca of haute cuisine We dined at Zinfandel’s on several occa- THE BEST RESTAURANTS but not intimidating. This is a temple to sions over the years and found it to be a Istrian ingredients and dishes that are a solid, traditional choice. This time perfect match for its talented chef. (2009), we were blown away by its new Together they make magic. See p. 233. attitude, menu, and the deftness of its • Mala Hiza (Mačkovec): Mala Hiza is chef. The old school elegance of the one of the finest restaurants in the room and impeccable service still are country. The building was constructed there, but the food is lighter, more con- in 1887 and once stood outside temporary, and the preparations and Zagreb—it later was taken apart, presentations are as creative as any we plopped in the middle of a gorgeous encountered. This is a special occasion 1 garden, and reassembled 4km (2 ⁄2 miles) place and a don’t-miss-it for anyone outside Čakovic. The menu is full of who cares about gourmet dining. See creative interpretations of regional Croa- p. 296. tian cuisine, and the chef will prepare • Zigante (Livade): Behold truffle king any old-time recipe if you call ahead Giancarlo Zigante’s gourmet palace. with your request. See p. 333. Almost everything on the extensive • Klub Gastronomada (Zagreb): Dining menu here utilizes the truffle, the pre- at this upstairs room off Jelačića cious fungus with which Zigante made Square awakened taste buds we didn’t his fortune. The restaurant is not a gim- know we had. The restaurant’s bent mick: Everything on the menu is clearly is locavore, but its soul is expertly prepared and even flirts with experimental theater. From clear creativity. See p. 267. tomato soup to nettle sauce to Istrian • Boškinac (Novalja, Pag Island): beef to a dessert made with black Boškinac has a knack for turning fresh olive jam, we were surprised (and produce and local ingredients like Pag

004_541289-ch01.indd4_541289-ch01.indd 7 33/29/10/29/10 77:50:50 PMPM 8 lamb and Pag cheese into dishes that an open fire (peka), Bitoraj utilizes the surprise the palate. Whether it’s a Satur- best ingredients the surrounding woods day lunch on the sunny terrace or a gala can offer. See p. 191. dinner in the elegant dining room, • Riblji Restaurant Foša (Zadar): Foša Boškinac’s creations are sublime. We has one of the best locations in Croatia. don’t know how the chef did it, but the It is at the water outside the Zadar wall, four cuts of lamb in a single sauce each and it has a view and sea breeze that had a personality all its own. Go out of make the food taste that much better. your way for Boškinac and take home a The restaurant is a favorite hangout for bottle of its boutique wine. See p. 164. locals. See p. 174. • Bitoraj (Fužine): Bitoraj is a 75-year- • Palača Paladini ( Town): This old restaurant in a new setting, which restaurant appeals to all five senses: It is only enhances the dining experience. set in a beautiful garden with blooming Game dishes available nowhere else are lavender and orange trees frequented by on the menu in company with tradi- songbirds. It has a great list of wines, tional delicacies. From bear steak and and it offers superb Dalmatian cuisine deer ham to Bitoraj’s signature dish of that tastes as good as it smells and young wild boars baked under a lid on looks. See p. 142. THE BEST OF CROATIA OF BEST THE

1 THE BEST RESTAURANTS BEST THE

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