Adventure tour operators, 52–53 Antigua's Gym (Antigua), 131 Index Aero Ruta Maya, 41 Antigua Tours, 125 Agua, Volcán de, 137 Antigüedades lo de Víctor See also Accommodations and Aguateca, 209 (Guatemala City), 105 Restaurant indexes, below. Air travel, 41 Antiques, Guatemala City, 105 Antigua, 113 Aparicio (Guatemala City), 107 Flores and Santa Elena, 204 ARCAS (Asociación de Rescate y Guatemala City, 76–77 Conservación de Vida General Index Tikal, 190–191 Silvestre), 207, 264 A Ak' Tenamit (Livingston), 55, Archaeological museums and 249 exhibits AAdictos (Flores), 212 Aktun Kan (Cave of the Serpent), Cobán, 220 Academia de Español Antigüeña

GENERAL INDEX 207 Museo de Arqueología y (Antigua), 129 Alamo, 39 Etnología (Retalhuleu), 272 Academia de Español Guatemala Guatemala City, 81 Museo Nacional de Etnología (Antigua), 54, 129 Alas Encantadas (Copán), 237 y Arqueología (National Academic trips, 55 Albuhi (Guatemala City), 107 Museum of Ethnology and Acatenango, 137–138 Alegre Pub (San Pedro), 156 Archaeology; Guatemala Accommodations, 60–61. See All Saints' Day, 34 City), 103 also Accommodations Index Alta Vista Golf & Tennis Club Parque Arqueológico Antigua, 117–121 (near Guatemala City), 104 Kaminaljuyú (Kaminaljuyú best, 9–12 Altiplano, 166 Archaeological Park; Chichicastenango, 171–172 Altiplano's Tours, 179 Guatemala City), 101 Cobán, 225–227 Alux, 28–29 Archaeological sites and ruins Copán, 240–241 Alvarado, Pedro de, 17–18 Aktun Kan (Cave of the El Remate, 214–216 American Express, 43 Serpent), 207 Esquipulas, 231–232 Guatemala City, 82 best, 5–6 Flores and Santa Elena, 209– traveler's checks, 42 books about, 27–28 212 Amoebas, 46 Candelaria Caves, 222 Fronteras, 255–256 Antigua, 112–138 Copán, 234–237 Guatemala City, 85–94 accommodations, 117–121 El Ceibal, 208–209 Zona 1, 91–93 arriving in, 113 El Mirador, 209 Zonas 9 & 10, 85, 88–91 babysitters, 116 Iximché, 165 Zona 11, 93 banks, 116 K'umarcaaj, 173–175 Zona 13 (near the bookstores, 116 La Cueva de las Minas airport), 93–94 brief description of, 63 (Esquipulas), 231 Huehuetenango, 187–188 day tour out of Guatemala Los Sapos (near Copán), 238 Livingston, 249–251 City, 110 Mixco Viejo, 111 Monterrico, 265–267 dentists, 116 Pascual Abaj (near northwest shore of Lake doctors, 116 Chichicastenango), 170 Atitlan, 163–164 drugstores, 116 Quiriguá, 259–260 Panajachel, 146–148 emergencies, 116 Sayaxché, 208–209 price categories, 61 express mail services, 116 suggested itinerary, 71–73 Puerto Barrios, 258 eyeglasses, 116 Takalik Abaj (near Puerto San José, 269–270 getting around, 114 Retalhuleu), 271, 273 Quetzaltenango, 182–183 hospitals, 116 Tayasal, 207 Quiché, 175 Internet access, 116 Tecpán, 165 Retalhuleu, 272 laundry and dry cleaning, 116– Uaxactún, 209 Salamá, 229 117 Yaxhá, 208 San Pedro, 154–155 layout of, 114 Zaculeu, 186 Santiago de Atitlán, 159–160 nightlife, 135–136 Architecture, 24–25 Tikal, 200–202 outdoor activities, 130–131 Arco de Santa Catalina Accords for Firm and Lasting photographic needs, 117 (Antigua), 127 Peace, 21 police, 117 Area codes, 277 Acropolis post office, 117 Arjona, Ricardo, 28 Copán, 235 restaurants, 122–125 Art, 25 Quiriguá, 259 restrooms, 117 Art galleries Acul, 175 COPYRIGHTED MATERIAL safety, 117 Antigua, 132 ADN, 253 shopping, 132–135 Guatemala City, 106 Tikal, 191 sights and attractions, 125– Art Workshops in Guatemala, 55 Adoptions, 85 130 Arzú, Alvaro, 21 Adrenalina Tours, 52, 145, 179, suggested itinerary, 73–75 Asistur, 40, 83, 277 180 useful telephone numbers, 117 Antigua, 114 Adventure Life, 52 visitor information, 114 Quetzaltenango, 178 AdventureSmith Explorations, volcanoes near, 136–138 San Pedro, 152 52–53 Santiago de Atitlán, 156

292

118_9780470887691-bindex.indd8_9780470887691-bindex.indd 229292 11/13/11/13/11 11:15:15 PPMM Asociación de Rescate y Banks and ATMs, 42–43 Puerto Barrios, 257 Conservación de Vida Silvestre Antigua, 116 Río Dulce, 253 (ARCAS), 207, 264 Chichicastenango, 168 San Pedro, 151–152

ASOTRANSLALI (Asociación de Cobán, 220 Santiago de Atitlán, 156–157 GENERAL INDEX Lancheros de Livingston), Copán, 234 Bok'atas (Cobán), 227 244–245 Guatemala City, 82 Books, recommended, 26–28 Asturias, Miguel Angel, 26 Huehuetenango, 186 on the Maya, 196, 239 ATI Divers (Panajachel), 145–146 Livingston, 246 Bookstores Atitlán, Lake, 63, 110, 139–165 Panajachel, 142 Antigua, 116 northwest shore of, 162–164 Quetzaltenango, 178 Guatemala City, 82, 106 Atitlan Adventures (San Pedro), Retalhuleu, 271 Quetzaltenango, 182 153 Río Dulce, 253 Botanical Garden (Jardín Atitrans, 38, 62 Santiago de Atitlán, 158 Botánico; Guatemala City), 102 Antigua, 113 Tikal, 193 Breakfast, 30 Cobán, 218 Banquetzal, Tikal, 193 Buddha (San Pedro), 156 Panajachel, 140, 145 Banrural Budget, Guatemala City, 81 Atlantic Lowlands, 64 Río Dulce, 253 Budget car rentals, 39 ATMs and banks, 42–43 San Pedro, 153 Bugs, 46 Antigua, 116 Banrural (Livingston), 246 Business hours, 277 Chichicastenango, 168 Bar Raíces (Flores), 212 Bus travel, 37, 38 Cobán, 220 Basílica (Esquipulas), 230–231 Antigua, 113 Copán, 234 Bat Palace (Tikal), 198 Chichicastenango, 167–168 Guatemala City, 82 Bats, El Zotz, 207 Cobán, 218 Huehuetenango, 186 Beaches Copán, 233 Livingston, 246 Monterrico, 264 Esquipulas, 230 Panajachel, 142 riptides, 46 Flores and Santa Elena, 206 Quetzaltenango, 178 Beer, 31 Guatemala City, 77 Retalhuleu, 271 Bees, 46 Huehuetenango, 185–186 Río Dulce, 253 Beverages, 31 Monterrico, 262 Santiago de Atitlán, 158 Big Foot Tourist Info Center (San Panajachel, 140 Tikal, 193 Pedro), 153 Puerto Barrios, 257 Aurora Zoo (Guatemala City), Bike Hike Adventures, 53 Puerto San José, 268 103 Biking and mountain biking Quetzaltenango, 176 Australia Antigua, 130 Río Dulce, 253 customs regulations, 36 El Remate, 214 San Pedro, 152 passports, 279 Guatemala City, 104 Tikal, 191–192 Autobuses del Norte (ADN), 253 Panajachel, 146 Tikal, 191 Quetzaltenango, 178 C Autohotels, 61 San Pedro, 153 Café 2000 (Antigua), 135 Auto insurance, 37, 39–40 Bilbao Stones (Las Piedras), 275 Café Bar El Bambu Aventuras Turísticas (Cobán), Biotopo Cerro Cahuí (near El (Huehuetenango), 189 224, 225 Remate), 214 Café Bar Los Estribos Avis, 39 Biotopo Chocón Machacas, 248– (Huehuetenango), 189 Guatemala City, 81 249 Café Fantasia (Cobán), 223 Biotopo del Quetzal, 228 Café Internet Antigua Bird-watching B (Retalhuleu), 271 Biotopo del Quetzal, 228 Babysitters Café No Sé (Antigua), 135 Cobán, 225 Antigua, 116 Café Welchez Coffee Plantation Copán, 238 Guatemala City, 82 (Copán), 238 Tikal, 196 Bahía de Amatique, 246 Café Xibalba (Copán), 243 Black & White (Guatemala City), Baja Verapaz, 228–229 Caldo de frutas, 181 109 Ball game and courts, Maya, 202 Calendar, Maya, 18 Black Caribs, 246 Balneario Cecilinda (near Calendar of events, 34 The Black Christ (Esquipulas), Cobán), 223 Calendar Round, 18 230–231 Banco Atlántida, Copán, 234 Campamento Ecológico El Blue Angel Video Cafe Banco G&T Continental Sombrero (Yaxhá), 208 (Quetzaltenango), 185 (Huehuetenango), 186 Camping Boating. See also Canoeing; Banco G&T Continental Laguna de Lachuá National Kayaking; White-water rafting (Retalhuleu), 271 Park, 224 Panajachel, 145 Banco Industrial Tikal, 202 Boat travel and tours Antigua, 116 Canada Lago Izabal, 254 Huehuetenango, 186 customs regulations, 36 Lake Petén Itzá, 206–207 Retalhuleu, 271 embassy, 277 Livingston, 244–245 Río Dulce, 253 health insurance, 278 Monterrico, 262 Banco Reformador, Antigua, 116 passports, 279 Panajachel, 140–142, 145 visas, 35

293

118_9780470887691-bindex.indd8_9780470887691-bindex.indd 293293 11/13/11/13/11 1:151:15 PMPM Candelaria Caves, 222 Caves and caving, 225 Churches, convents and Canoeing Candelaria Caves, 222 monasteries El Remate, 214 Kan' Ba, 223 Antigua Lake Petén Itzá, 207 La Cueva de las Minas Catedral San José, 126 San Pedro, 153 (Esquipulas), 231 Convento de las Canopy Tour Tikal, 201 Lanquin, 223–224 Capuchinas, 127 Capilla del Calvario Celas Maya Spanish School Convento La Merced, 128 (Chichicastenango), 170 (Quetzaltenango), 54, 181 Iglesia La Merced, 128 Caravan Tours, 57 Cellphones, 59 best, 6–7 Car breakdowns, 40 Guatemala City, 82–83 Capilla del Calvario Cardamom, 218 Cemetery, Chichicastenango, 168 (Chichicastenango), 170 Car documents, 37 Central Acropolis (Tikal), 198– Catedral de la Diócesis de los

GENERAL INDEX Carlos Woods Arte Antiguo y 199 Altos (Quetzaltenango), Contemporáneo (Guatemala Central American Federation, 20 178 City), 106 Central Guatemala, 64, 217–243 Catedral de Santo Domingo Car rentals, 39 Centro Comercial Miraflores (Cobán), 220 Guatemala City, 81 (Guatemala City), 105 Guatemala City Car safety, 37 Centro Comercial Tikal Futura Catedral Metropolitana Car travel, 37–40 (Guatemala City), 105 (Metropolitan Antigua, 113, 114 Centro Cultural Comunitario Cathedral), 99 Chichicastenango, 168 Tz'unun Ya' (San Pedro), 154 Iglesia La Merced, 99 Cobán, 218 Centro Cultural de España Iglesia San Francisco, Copán, 233 (Guatemala City), 108 100 El Remate, 213 Centro Cultural La Azotea Iglesia Yurrita, 101 Esquipulas, 230 (Antigua), 128–129 Iglesia de San Antonio de Flores and Santa Elena, 206 Centro Cultural Miguel Angel Padua (Retalhuleu), 272 Guatemala City, 77, 81 Asturias (Miguel Angel Iglesia de San Jacinto Huehuetenango, 186 Asturias Cultural Center; (Salcajá), 180 Monterrico, 262 Guatemala City), 99, 107 Iglesia de Santo Tomás Panajachel, 140 Centro Dental de Especialistas (Chichicastenango), 170 Puerto Barrios, 257 (Guatemala City), 83 La Virgen de la Concepción Puerto San José, 268 Centro de Salud Inmaculada Quetzaltenango, 176, 178 Cobán, 220 (Huehuetenango), 186 Retalhuleu, 271 Panajachel, 142 Panajachel, 144 Río Dulce, 252 Río Dulce, 254 San Andrés Xecul, 181 San Pedro, 152 Centro Lingüístico Maya Cinemas, Guatemala City, 109 Santiago de Atitlán, 157 (Antigua), 54, 129 Cinépolis (Guatemala City), 109 Tikal, 192 Centro Visual G&G (Antigua), 116 Cines Próceres (Guatemala City), Casa D'Acuña (Cobán), 225 Ceramic Museum (Tikal), 199 109 Casa de Artes (Antigua), 132, 133 Cerro de la Cruz (Antigua), 127, Cines Tikal Futura (Guatemala Casa de la Cultura 153 City), 109 (Quetzaltenango), 179 Cerro del Carmen (Guatemala Circus Bar (Panajachel), 150 Casa del Tejido Antiguo City), 99 Clark Tours, 38, 58 (Antigua), 128, 134 Chatun (Esquipulas), 231 Guatemala City, 80, 82, 99, Casa K'inich (Copán), 238 Cheers (Guatemala City), 108 110 Casa Verde Tours (San Pedro), Chichicastenango, 166–175 Tikal, 192 153 accommodations, 171–172 Claro, 59 Casa Xelaju (Quetzaltenango), churches and shrines, 170 Classic Dance (Huehuetenango), 181 getting around, 168 189 Castillo de San Felipe, 249 market, 169–170 Climate, 33 Castillo de San Felipe (Río on market day, 110 Climbing, Antigua, 130 Dulce), 254 nightlife, 173 Clínica Handal (Copán), 234 Catedral de la Diócesis de los orientation, 168 Clínicas Ovalle (Antigua), 116 Altos (Quetzaltenango), 178 restaurants, 172–173 Clothing Catedral de Santo Domingo sights and attractions, 168– Antigua, 133 (Cobán), 220 170 Panajachel, 146 Catedral Metropolitana Children, families with, 49 Cobán, 218–229 (Metropolitan Cathedral; books for, 28 accommodations, 225–227 Guatemala City), 99 suggested itinerary, 69 getting around, 219 Catedral San José (Antigua), 126 Children's Museum (Museo de nightlife, 227 Catherwood, Fredrick, 239 los Niños; Guatemala City), organized tours, 225 CA Tours, 53 103 orientation, 219 Cave of the Serpent (Aktun Cholera, 46 post office, 219 Kan), 207 Chulamar beach, 268 restaurants, 227 shopping, 222 traveling to, 218

294

118_9780470887691-bindex.indd8_9780470887691-bindex.indd 294294 11/13/11/13/11 1:151:15 PMPM Cocop, 175 Dentists Ecoverapaz, 228 Coffee tours Antigua, 116 El Aleph (Panajachel), 150 Antigua, 131 Guatemala City, 83 El Atico (Guatemala City), 106

Cobán, 222 Desserts, 31 El Balcón de Enríquez GENERAL INDEX Copán, 238 Detalles Dry Cleaning & (Quetzaltenango), 185 Cofradías, Chichicastenango, 172 Lavandería (Antigua), 116 El Barrio (San Pedro), 156 Coin Museum (Guatemala City), DHL, 278 El Boquerón, 254 100 Antigua, 116 El Calvario, Templo (Cobán), 220 Colección 21 (Guatemala City), Guatemala City, 83 El Ceibal, 208–209 106 Día de los Muertos, 34 El Chapiteau Discoteque Colibrí (Antigua), 133 Diarrhea, 46 (Panajachel), 150 Colom, Alvaro, 17 Diners Club, 43 El Cristo Negro (Esquipulas), 34, Complejo Cultural y Ecológico Dining, 29–30. See also 230–231 Cuevas de Candelaria, 222 Restaurant Index El Cuartito (Quetzaltenango), Complex N (Tikal), 197 Antigua, 122–125 185 Complex P (Tikal), 197 best, 13–14 Elderhostel, 49 Conexiones (Antigua), 116 Chichicastenango, 172–173 ElderTreks, 49 Connection kit, 60, 277 Cobán, 227 Electricity, 277 Convento de las Capuchinas Copán, 241–243 El Encuentro (Guatemala City), (Antigua), 127 El Remate, 214 109 Convento La Merced (Antigua), Esquipulas, 232 El Estor, 254 128 Flores and Santa Elena, 212 El Florido, border crossing at, 37, Cooking classes, Antigua, 130 Fronteras, 256 233 Cool Beans (Flores), 213 Guatemala City, 94–98 El Frijol Feliz (Antigua), 130 Copán, 233–243 Huehuetenango, 188 El Golfete, 248 accommodations, 240–241 Livingston, 251–252 El Mirador, 207, 209 getting around, 233 Monterrico, 267 El Mundo Perdido (the Lost nightlife, 243 northwestern shore of Lake World; Tikal), 199 orientation, 233–234 Atitlán, 164 El Remate, 213–216 outdoor activities, 238 Panajachel, 149–150 El Telar (Antigua), 135 restaurants, 241–243 price categories, 30 El Zotz, 207 shopping, 239–240 Puerto Barrios, 258–259 Emanuel's Moto & Bike Rental sights and attractions, 234– Puerto San José, 269–270 (Panajachel), 146 238 Quetzaltenango, 184–185 Embassies and consulates, 277 Spanish-language classes, Retalhuleu, 272 Emergencies, 277. See also 240 San Pedro, 155 Hospitals; Police traveling to, 233 Tikal, 202–203 Antigua, 116 visitor information, 235 Disabilities, travelers with, Guatemala City, 83 Copán Guides Association, 235 48–49 Entre Mundos, 55, 182 Copán Museum (Museo Regional Diving, Panajachel, 145–146 Entry requirements, 35–36 de Arqueología), 238 Dnoz.com (San Pedro), 153 Ephebus Bar (Guatemala City), Corazón Maya Spanish School Doctors. See also Hospitals 109 (San Pedro), 154 Antigua, 116 Escorted general-interest tours, Cotzumalguapa Cultural Museum Dollar car rentals, 39 56–58 (Santa Lucía), 275–276 Guatemala City, 81 Escuela de Español San José el Crafts, 25 Doña María Gordillo (Antigua), Viejo (Antigua), 54, 130 Antigua, 133 132–133 Esquipulas, 229–232 Chichicastenango, 169 Don Jerónimo's (San Juan Exotic Travel (Livingston), 246 Cobán, 222 Chamelco), 223 Explicatio Apologetica, 126 Guatemala City, 106 Dos Mundos Spanish Academy Express mail services Credit cards, 43 (Flores), 208 Antigua, 116 car-insurance coverage, 40 Drinking laws, 277 Guatemala City, 83 Cruz Roja, 279 Driving rules, 40 Eyeglasses Cuatro Grados Norte (Guatemala Drugstores Antigua, 116 City), 94 Antigua, 116 Guatemala City, 83 Cuevas de Candelaria, Complejo Guatemala City, 83 Cultural y Ecológico, 222 Drunken horse race (Todos F Currency and currency exchange, Santos Chuchumatán) (Todos Families with children, 49 41–42 Santos Chuchumatán), 189 books for, 28 Guatemala City, 83 Dry season, 33 suggested itinerary, 69 Customs regulations, 35–36 Farmacia Fénix (Antigua), 116 E Fed Ex, 278 D Ecocenter Tours, 228 Guatemala City, 83 Del Paseo (Guatemala City), 108 Eco Escuela de Español (San Dengue fever, 45 Andrés), 54, 207

295

118_9780470887691-bindex.indd8_9780470887691-bindex.indd 295295 11/13/11/13/11 1:151:15 PMPM Fiesta de la Virgen de la Golf Guías Ixiles (Nebaj), 175 Asunción, 34 Antigua, 130 Guitar Island, 206–207 Fiesta de Santo Tomás Guatemala City, 104 Gulf Coast route, 37 (Chichicastenango), 34 Gran Cento Comercial Los Fiesta Nacional Indígena de Próceres (Guatemala City), 105 H Guatemala (National Grand Tikal Futura (Guatemala Haab calendar, 18 Indigenous Folkloric Festival; City), 104 Habitat for Humanity Cobán), 34, 222 spa at, 104 International, 55 Finca el Baúl (near Santa Lucía), tennis, 105 Hacienda Nueva Country Club 275 Great Britain (near Guatemala City), 104 Finca El Paraíso, 254 customs regulations, 36 Handicrafts, 25 Finca Filadelfia (near Antigua), embassy, 277 Antigua, 133

GENERAL INDEX 131 health insurance, 278 Chichicastenango, 169 Finca Ixobel, 214 passports, 279 Cobán, 222 Finca Las Ilusiones, 276 tour operators based in, 57 Guatemala City, 106 Finca Santa Isabel (Copán), 238 visas, 35 Happy Fish (Livingston), 246, Finca Santa Margarita (Cobán), Great Plaza 249 222 Quiriguá, 259 Hawaii Park (Monterrico), 264 Fireworks, 170 Tikal, 198 Healing Hands Therapy Spa Fishing, Panajachel, 145 Great Pyramid (Tikal), 199 (Antigua), 131 5D-33 temple (Tikal), 198 Great Sailfishing Company, 269 Health Canada, 278 Flora, 23 Grutas del Rey Marcos (near Health concerns, 44–48 Flores Airport (near Tikal), 36 Cobán), 222–223 Health insurance, 44, 45, 278 Flores and Santa Elena, 203–213 Guacamaya (Copán), 240 Hedman Alas (Copán), 233 accommodations, 209–212 Guatemala City, 76 Hertz, 39 getting around, 204, 206 accommodations, 85–94 Guatemala City, 81 nightlife, 212–213 Zona 1, 91–93 Hieroglyphic Stairway (Copán), orientation, 206 Zonas 9 & 10, 85, 88–91 237 restaurants, 212 Zona 11, 93 Hiking sights and attractions, 206– Zona 13 (near the Antigua, 130 209 airport), 93–94 San Pedro, 153 traveling to, 204 arriving in, 76–77 Todos Santos Chuchumatán, Food and cuisine, 29–31 average minimum/maximum 189 Foto Angel (Antigua), 117 temperature and History of Guatemala, 16–22 Frida's (Antigua), 135 precipitation for, 33 as banana republic, 20–21 Friday market, San Francisco El babysitters, 82 colonial rule, 19–20 Alto, 181 banks, 82 early history, 17 Fruits, 31 bookstores, 82 independence, 20 Fuego, Volcán, 138 brief description of, 62–63 Spanish conquest, 17–19 Fuentes Georginas (near Zunil), crime and safety, 82, 84 "Ten Years of Spring," 21 180 emergencies, 83 Holidays, 33, 278 Fuji Film (Guatemala City), 82 finding addresses in, 77 Holy Week, 34 Funkey Monkey (Antigua), 116 getting around, 81–82 Antigua, 129 history of, 76 Hondutel (Copán), 234 hospitals, 83 G Horseback riding Internet access, 83 Galería El Túnel (Guatemala Antigua, 130 laundry and dry cleaning, 83 City), 106 San Pedro, 153 layout of, 80 Galería Panza Verde (Antigua), Horse worship, 204 maps, 83–84 132 Hospital Centro Médico neighborhoods in brief, 80–81 GAP Adventures, 50, 53 (Guatemala City), 83, 278 newspapers and magazines, Garífuna, 22, 246 Hospital El Buen Samaritano 84 National Garífuna Day, 34 (Chichicastenango), 168 nightlife, 107–109 Gasoline, 39, 277 Hospital General San Juan de outdoor activities, 104–105 Gay Guatemala, 48, 109 Dios (Guatemala City), 83 police, 84 Gays and lesbians, 48 Hospital Génesis (Puerto San post office, 84 Guatemala City, 109 José), 268 restaurants, 94–98 Gémenis Bookstore (Guatemala Hospital La Democracia restrooms, 84 City), 82 (Quetzaltenango), 178 shopping, 105–107 Genetic (Guatemala City), 109 Hospital Nacional de side trips from, 110–111 Geology and geography, 22–23 Huehuetenango, 186 sights and attractions, 99–104 Gifts and souvenirs Hospital Nacional de Retalhuleu, taxes, 84 Antigua, 133 271 visitor information, 77, 80 Guatemala City, 106 Hospital Nacional Sololá, 142 walking in, 81 Hospital Privado Hermano Pedro weather, 84 (Antigua), 116

296

118_9780470887691-bindex.indd8_9780470887691-bindex.indd 296296 11/13/11/13/11 1:151:15 PMPM Hospital Privado Iglesia La Merced Jades S.A. (Antigua), 133 Quetzaltenango, 178 Antigua, 128 Jaguar Tunnel (Copán), 237 Hospitals, 278 Guatemala City, 99 Jaibalito, 163

Antigua, 116 Iglesia Parroquial Santiago Japan, visas, 35 GENERAL INDEX Chichicastenango, 168 Apóstol (Santiago de Atitlán), Jardín Botánico (Botanical Guatemala City, 83 158 Garden; Guatemala City), 102 Huehuetenango, 186 Iglesia San Francisco (Guatemala Jardín de América Spanish Quetzaltenango, 178 City), 100 School (Panajachel), 54, 144 Retalhuleu, 271 Iglesia Yurrita (Guatemala City), Jewelry Hotel La Posada (Cobán), cafe 101 Antigua, 133 at, 223 Imaginative Traveller, 57 Guatemala City, 107 Hotels, 60–61. See also Immigration Office (Guatemala Jim Cline Photo Tours, 55 Accommodations Index City), 35 Jogging Antigua, 117–121 Incidents of Travel in Central Antigua, 131 best, 9–12 America, Chiapas and Yucatan Guatemala City, 104 Chichicastenango, 171–172 (Stephens), 239 Journey Latin America, 57 Cobán, 225–227 Independence Day, 34 Joyería del Angel (Antigua), 133 Copán, 240–241 INGUAT (Guatemalan Tourism JP's Rumbar (Antigua), 136 El Remate, 214–216 Commission), 34 Esquipulas, 231–232 Antigua, 117 K Flores and Santa Elena, 209– Chichicastenango, 168 Kafka (Antigua), 135 212 Flores and Santa Elena, 206 Kahlua (Guatemala City), 108 Fronteras, 255–256 Guatemala City, 76, 77, 80 Kaminaljuyú Archaeological Park Guatemala City, 85–94 Panajachel, 142 (Parque Arqueológico Zona 1, 91–93 Quetzaltenango, 178 Kaminaljuyú; Guatemala City), Zonas 9 & 10, 85, 88–91 In Nola (Guatemala City), 106 101 Zona 11, 93 Instituto Guatemalteco Kan' Ba, 223 Zona 13 (near the Americano (IGA; Guatemala Kayaking airport), 93–94 City), 107–108 El Remate, 214 Huehuetenango, 187–188 Insurance, 278 Lake Petén Itzá, 207 Livingston, 249–251 auto, 37, 39–40 San Pedro, 153 Monterrico, 265–267 medical, 44, 45 Keops (Cobán), 227 northwest shore of Lake International Gay and Lesbian K'frans (Antigua), 133 Atitlan, 163–164 Travel Association (IGLTA), 48 K'frans (Panajachel), 146 Panajachel, 146–148 International Student Identity Kids, 49 price categories, 61 Card (ISIC), 49 books for, 28 Puerto Barrios, 258 International Student Travel suggested itinerary, 69 Puerto San José, 269–270 Confederation (ISTC), 49 King Smoke Shell (Copán), 237 Quetzaltenango, 182–183 International Travel Maps, 40 Kloster (Guatemala City), 108 Quiché, 175 Internet access, 59–60, 278 Kuero's & Mucho Más (Antigua), Retalhuleu, 272 Antigua, 116 133 Salamá, 229 Copán, 234 K'umarcaaj (Utatlán), 173–175 San Pedro, 154–155 Guatemala City, 83 Santiago de Atitlán, 159–160 Retalhuleu, 271 Tikal, 200–202 San Pedro, 153 L Hotel Villa Caribe (Livingston), Intestinal woes, 46 La Antigua Galería de Arte 252 Ireland, passports, 279 (Antigua), 132 Hot springs, Las Fuentes Itineraries, suggested, 65–75 La Aurora International Airport Georginas (near Zunil), 180 Antigua, 73–75 (Guatemala City), 36, 76 Huehuetenango, 185–189 for families, 69–71 La Bodeguita del Centro Huipiles, 26 Maya ruins, 71–73 (Guatemala City), 108–109 Antigua, 135 in 1 week, 65–67 La Casa del Conde (Antigua), 116 Nebaj, 175 in 2 weeks, 67–69 La Casbah (Antigua), 136 Santiago de Atitlán, 158–159 Ixbalanque (Copán), 240 La Cueva de las Minas Todos Santos Chuchumatán, Ixchel Museum of Indigenous (Esquipulas), 231 189 Dress (Museo Ixchel del Traje La Cueva de la Vaca, 248 Hunab Kú Travel & Adventure Indígena; Guatemala City), 102 La Danta (El Mirador), 209 (Panajachel), 145 Ixil Triangle, 175 Ladinos, 16 Iximché, 164–165 La Esquina (Antigua), 135 La Fábrica Gimnasio (Antigua), I 131 Iglesia de San Antonio de Padua J La Fonda del Che (Retalhuleu), 272 Jade, 134 (Quetzaltenango), 185 Iglesia de San Jacinto (Salcajá), Jades Imperio Maya (Antigua), Lago Izabal, 252, 254 180 133

297

118_9780470887691-bindex.indd8_9780470887691-bindex.indd 297297 11/13/11/13/11 1:151:15 PMPM La Guitarra Island, 206–207 Leather goods M Laguna de Chicabal, 181 Antigua, 133 Macaw Mountain, 238 Laguna de Lachuá National Park, Panajachel, 146 McTours (Copán), 238 224 Legal aid, 278 Magdalena Mall (Cobán), 227 Lake Atitlán, 63, 110, 139–165 LGBT travelers, 48 Mail, 278 northwest shore of, 162–164 Librería del Pensativo (Antigua), Malaria, 45 Lake Petén Itzá, 206–207 116 Mapa en Relieve (Relief Map; Lake Yaxhá, 208 Likin, 268 Guatemala City), 101 La Masheñita buses, 167 Lin Canola (Guatemala City), 106 Maps, 40 La Merced Church Línea Dorada Guatemala City, 83–84 Antigua, 128 Río Dulce, 253 Marimba music, 28 Guatemala City, 99 Tikal, 191–192 Marina Pez Vela (Puerto San GENERAL INDEX La Merced Convent (Antigua), Líneas Dorada, Quetzaltenango, José), 268 128 176 Martsam Tour and Travel, 58, La Nariz del Indio (San Pedro), Liquors, Guatemala City, 107 207–209, 214 153 Litegua, Puerto Barrios, 257 MasterCard, 43 Language, 278 Literature, 26–28 Matison, Jim and Nancy, 158 Language classes, 53–54 Lithic Museum (Tikal), 199 Maximón (Maya god), 157, 179– Antigua, 129–130 Livingston, 244–252 180 Copán, 240 Lodging, 60–61. See also Maya calendar, 18 Flores and Santa Elena, 207– Accommodations Index Maya Children's Museum 208 Antigua, 117–121 (Copán), 238 Monterrico, 264 best, 9–12 Maya Expeditions, 38, 53 Panajachel, 144 Chichicastenango, 171–172 Guatemala City, 80, 110 Quetzaltenango, 181 Cobán, 225–227 Mayan Golf Club (Guatemala San Andrés, 207 Copán, 240–241 City), 104 San Pedro, 154 El Remate, 214–216 Mayan Spa (Antigua), 131 Lanquin, 223–224 Esquipulas, 231–232 Maya people and culture, 17. See La Parranda (Quetzaltenango), Flores and Santa Elena, 209– also Maya ruins 185 212 books on, 196 La Peña de Sol Latino (Antigua), Fronteras, 255–256 caves and, 225 135 Guatemala City, 85–94 Centro Cultural La Azotea La Pintada, 248 Zona 1, 91–93 (Antigua), 128 Lapointe, Roger, 145 Zonas 9 & 10, 85, 88–91 Finca el Baúl (near Santa La Prensa Libre (newspaper), 84 Zona 11, 93 Lucía), 275 La Reunion (Antigua), 130 Zona 13 (near the Iximché, 164 La Rumba Xela airport), 93–94 La Cueva de las Minas (Quetzaltenango), 185 Huehuetenango, 187–188 (Esquipulas), 231 La Sala (Antigua), 135 Livingston, 249–251 Popol Vuh, 26, 171 Las Casas, Bartolomé de, 19, 217 Monterrico, 265–267 Maya ruins Las Escobas (Puerto Barrios), northwest shore of Lake Aktun Kan (Cave of the 257 Atitlan, 163–164 Serpent), 207 Las Fuentes Georginas (near Panajachel, 146–148 best, 5–6 Zunil), 180 price categories, 61 books about, 27–28 La Sin Ventura (Antigua), 136 Puerto Barrios, 258 Candelaria Caves, 222 Las Piedras (Bilbao Stones), 275 Puerto San José, 269–270 Copán, 234–237 Las Pirámides del Ka, 162 Quetzaltenango, 182–183 El Ceibal, 208–209 Las Puertas (Flores), 213 Quiché, 175 El Mirador, 209 Las Sepulturas (Copán), 237 Retalhuleu, 272 Iximché, 165 Las Victorias National Park, 220 Salamá, 229 K'umarcaaj, 173–175 La Torre (near Todos Santos San Pedro, 154–155 La Cueva de las Minas Chuchumatán), 189 Santiago de Atitlán, 159–160 (Esquipulas), 231 Laundry and dry cleaning Tikal, 200–202 Los Sapos (near Copán), 238 Antigua, 116–117 Long Count Calendar, 18 Mixco Viejo, 111 Guatemala City, 83 López, Mario, 178 Pascual Abaj (near Lavanderia Il Bucato Los Halcones buses Chichicastenango), 170 (Panajachel), 142 (Huehuetenango), 185, 186 Quiriguá, 259–260 Lavandería Interdry (Guatemala Los Sapos (near Copán), 238 Sayaxché, 208–209 City), 83 Los Siete Altares (Livingston), suggested itinerary, 71–73 Lavenderia El Siglo (Guatemala 246–248 Takalik Abaj (near City), 83 Los Thermales (San Pedro), 154 Retalhuleu), 271, 273 La Virgen de la Concepción The Lost World (El Mundo Tayasal, 207 Inmaculada (Huehuetenango), Perdido; Tikal), 199 Tecpán, 165 186 Lax Travel Antigua, 114, 125, 136

298

118_9780470887691-bindex.indd8_9780470887691-bindex.indd 298298 11/13/11/13/11 1:151:15 PMPM Uaxactún, 209 Museo del Libro Antiguo New Zealand Yaxhá, 208 (Antigua), 126 customs regulations, 36 Zaculeu, 186 Museo de los Niños (Children's passports, 279

Meat and poultry, 30 Museum; Guatemala City), 103 Nightlife GENERAL INDEX MEDEX Assistance, 278 Museo de Santiago (Antigua), Antigua, 135–136 MedicAlert identification tag, 44 126–127 best, 14–15 Medical insurance, 44, 45, 278 Museo Ixchel del Traje Indígena Chichicastenango, 173 Medical requirements for entry, (Ixchel Museum of Indigenous Cobán, 227 36 Dress; Guatemala City), 102 Copán, 243 MedjetAssist, 47 Museo Lacustre Atitlán El Remate, 216 Menchú, Rigoberta, 21, 27, 174 (Panajachel), 144 Flores and Santa Elena, 212– Mercado Central (Central Market; Museo Nacional de Etnología y 213 Guatemala City), 105, 106 Arqueología (National Guatemala City, 107–109 Mercado de Artesanías (Artisans' Museum of Ethnology and Huehuetenango, 189 Market; Guatemala City), 105– Archaeology; Guatemala City), Livingston, 252 107 103 Monterrico, 267 Mercado de Artesanías y Museo Nacional de Historia Puerto Barrios, 259 Compañía de Jesús (Antigua), Natural (National Museum of San Pedro, 156 134 Natural History; Guatemala Nim Po't (Antigua), 132, 134 Mercado Municipal (Antigua), City), 103–104 North Acropolis (Tikal), 198 134 Museo Nacional de la Historia North & South Bookstore Metropole (Guatemala City), 109 (National History Museum; (Quetzaltenango), 182 Miguel Angel Asturias Cultural Guatemala City), 100 Nuestro Diario (newspaper), 84 Center (Centro Cultural Miguel Museo Numismático Angel Asturias; Guatemala (Numismatic Museum; O City), 27, 99, 107 Guatemala City), 100 Old Town Outfitters Minivans Museo Popol Vuh (Guatemala Antigua, 125, 130, 136 El Remate, 213 City), 102 Guatemala City, 104 Flores and Santa Elena, 204 Museo Rabinal Achí (Rabinal), Old Town (Panajachel), 142 Tikal, 192 229 Optyma (Antigua), 116 Mixco Viejo, 111 Museo Regional Osorio, Arana, 21 Mobile phones, 59 (Chichicastenango), 168 Outdoor activities Money and costs, 41–44 Museo Regional de Arqueología Antigua, 130–131 Monja Blanca (Cobán), 218 (Copán), 238 Guatemala City, 104–105 Monoloco (Antigua), 136 Museum of Maya Sculpture Panajachel, 145–146 Monterrico, 261–267 (Copán), 235 Outdoor adventures, best, 7–8 accommodations, 265–267 Museum of Modern Art (Museo Overseas Adventure Travel, 57 Monterrico Nature Reserve de Arte Moderno; Guatemala (Reserva Natural de City), 103 Monterrico), 264 Music, 28–29 P Morería Santo Tomás Pacaya volcano, 136 (Chichicastenango), 170 N Pacific Coast, 261–276 Motorcycle tours, Panajachel, Pacific Slope, 64 National, Guatemala City, 81 146 Package tours, 56–58 National car rentals, 39 Movies, 29 Pajayub (Panajachel), 146 National Garífuna Day, 34 Movistar, 59 Palacio del Noble Ayuntamiento National History Museum (Museo Municipal Theater (Antigua), 127 Nacional de la Historia; (Quetzaltenango), 179 Palacio de los Capitanes Guatemala City), 100 Museo Cojoyla (Santiago de Generales (Antigua), 127 National Indigenous Folkloric Atitlán), 158 Palacio Nacional (National Festival (Cobán), 222 Museo de Arqueología y Palace; Guatemala City), 100 National Museum of Ethnology Etnología (Retalhuleu), 272 Panajachel, 139–150 and Archaeology (Museo Museo de Arte Colonial accommodations, 146–148 Nacional de Etnología y (Antigua), 128 getting around, 140–142 Arqueología; Guatemala City), Museo de Arte Moderno nightlife, 150 103 (Museum of Modern Art; orientation, 142 National Museum of Natural Guatemala City), 103 outdoor activities, 145–146 History (Museo Nacional de Museo de Cultura restaurants, 149–150 Historia Natural; Guatemala Cotzumalguapa (Santa Lucía), shopping, 146 City), 103–104 275–276 traveling to, 140 National Palace (Palacio Museo de las Máscaras Pana Rock Café (Panajachel), Nacional; Guatemala City), 100 Ceremoniales (near 150 Natural attractions, best, 4–5 Chichicastenango), 170 Papa Chango's (Copán), 243 Nebaj, 175 Museo del Ferrocarril Paragliding, Panajachel, 145 Newspapers and magazines, (Quetzaltenango), 179 Parasites, 46 278–279

299

118_9780470887691-bindex.indd8_9780470887691-bindex.indd 299299 11/13/11/13/11 1:151:15 PMPM Parlama Sport Fishing, 269 Flores and Santa Elena, 206 Recycling, 50 Parque Arqueológico Guatemala City, 84 Red Cross, 279 Kaminaljuyú (Kaminaljuyú Huehuetenango, 186 Regions in brief, 62–64 Archaeological Park; Panajachel, 142 Reilly's (Antigua), 136 Guatemala City), 101 Quetzaltenango, 178 Relief Map (Mapa en Relieve; Parque Centro América Retalhuleu, 271 Guatemala City), 101 (Quetzaltenango), 178–179 San Pedro, 153 Reserva Natural Atitlán, 144–145 Parque Hawaii (Monterrico), 264 Prescription medications, 44 Reserva Natural de Monterrico Parque Nacional Laguna de Príncipe Maya Museum (Cobán), (Monterrico Nature Reserve), Lachuá, 224 220 264 Parque Nacional Las Victorias, Proyecto Ecológico Quetzal Resplendent quetzal, 228 220 (Cobán), 225 Responsible tourism, 50–52

GENERAL INDEX Pascual Abaj (near Proyecto Lingüístico Monterrico, Restaurants, 29–30. See also Chichicastenango), 170 264 Restaurant Index Passports, 35, 279 Proyecto Lingüístico Quezalteco, Antigua, 122–125 Pedro at Gretaxmitur (Puerto 54, 181 best, 13–14 Barrios), 257 Proyecto Mosaico, 55 Chichicastenango, 172–173 The Petén, 190–216 Proyecto Mosaico (Antigua), 130 Cobán, 227 brief description of, 63–64 Puerto Barrios, 256–260 Copán, 241–243 Petencito Zoo, 207 Puerto San José, 267–270 El Remate, 214 Petén Itzá, Lake, 206–207 Pullmantur, 37 Esquipulas, 232 Petexbatún, 209 Punta Manabique (Puerto Flores and Santa Elena, 212 Petrol, 277 Barrios), 257–258 Fronteras, 256 Photographic needs, Antigua, 117 Guatemala City, 94–98 Pirámides del Ka, 162 Q Huehuetenango, 188 Planning your trip, 32–61 Livingston, 251–252 Q'eqchi' women's craft calendar of events, 34 Monterrico, 267 cooperative (Livingston), 249 customs regulations, 35–36 northwestern shore of Lake Quema del Diablo (Burning the entry requirements, 35–36 Atitlán, 164 Devil), 34 getting around, 37–41 Panajachel, 149–150 Quetzal, 228 health concerns, 44–48 price categories, 30 Quetzaltenango (Xela), 176–185 money and costs, 41–44 Puerto Barrios, 258–259 accommodations, 182–183 safety concerns, 47–48 Puerto San José, 269–270 getting around, 178 special interest and escorted Quetzaltenango, 184–185 nightlife, 185 trips, 51–58 Retalhuleu, 272 orientation, 178 specialized travel resources, San Pedro, 155 restaurants, 184–185 48–50 Tikal, 202–203 shopping, 182 staying connected, 58–60 Restrooms, Antigua, 117 sights and attractions, 178– sustainable tourism, 50–52 Retalhuleu, 270–276 179 traveling to Guatemala, 36–37 Reuxtreme (Retalhuleu), 272 Spanish-language classes, 181 when to go, 32–33 Revue Magazine, 84, 108 tours, treks and attractions Playa Blanca (Livingston), 248 Riki's Bar (Antigua), 136 around, 179–182 Plaza Mayor Río Dulce, 248, 252–256 traveling to, 176, 178 Antigua, 114, 126 Ríos Montt, General, 175 Quetzal Trekkers, 179 Guatemala City, 100–101 Riptides, 46 Quiché (Santa Cruz del Quiché), Plaza of the Seven Temples Road conditions, 39 173 (Tikal), 199 Roman Catholic Church, 20 Quick Photo (Guatemala City), Police, 279. See also Tourism Rompopo, 181 82 police Ron Zacapa (Panajachel), 150 Quiriguá, 259–260 Antigua, 117 Rosalia Tunnel (Copán), 237 Chichicastenango, 168 Rother, Father Stanley, 158, 159 Cobán, 220 R Ruins and archaeological sites Flores and Santa Elena, 206 Rabin Ajua, 222 Aktun Kan (Cave of the Guatemala City, 84 Rabinal, 228, 229 Serpent), 207 Livingston, 246 Rainbow Café and Bookstore best, 5–6 Quetzaltenango, 178 (Antigua), 116 books about, 27–28 Río Dulce, 254 Rainbow Travel Center Candelaria Caves, 222 San Pedro, 153 (Antigua), 114, 125, 136 Copán, 234–237 Pool and Beer (Quetzaltenango), Rainy season, 33 El Ceibal, 208–209 185 Rattle 'N' Hum (Guatemala City), El Mirador, 209 Popol Vuh, 26, 171 109 Iximché, 165 Post offices Ratzan, Dolores, 158 K'umarcaaj, 173–175 Antigua, 117 Ravenscroft Riding Stables La Cueva de las Minas Chichicastenango, 168 (Antigua), 130 (Esquipulas), 231 Cobán, 219 Real InterContinental Los Sapos (near Copán), 238 Copán, 234 (Guatemala City), spa at, 104 Mixco Viejo, 111

300

118_9780470887691-bindex.indd8_9780470887691-bindex.indd 300300 11/13/11/13/11 1:151:15 PMPM Pascual Abaj (near Santiago de Atitlán, 156–160 Sustainable tourism, 50–52 Chichicastenango), 170 Santiaguito, 180 Swimming Quiriguá, 259–260 Santo Tomás, Iglesia de Antigua, 131

Sayaxché, 208–209 (Chichicastenango), 170 Guatemala City, 105 GENERAL INDEX suggested itinerary, 71–73 Sayaxché, 208–209 Panajachel, 146 Takalik Abaj (near Scuba diving, Panajachel, 145– Sylvanus G. Morely Museum Retalhuleu), 271, 273 146 (Tikal), 199 Tayasal, 207 Sea kayaking Tecpán, 165 El Remate, 214 T Uaxactún, 209 Lake Petén Itzá, 207 Tabarini Rent A Car, 39 Yaxhá, 208 San Pedro, 153 Antigua, 114 Zaculeu, 186 Seasons, 33 Cobán, 219 Rum, 31 Sea turtles, Tortuguerio Guatemala City, 82 Panajachel, 150 Monterrico, 264–265 Quetzaltenango, 178 Rumba Disco (Panajachel), 150 Semana Santa, Antigua, 129 Tikal, 192 Rutas Orientales (Esquipulas), Semuc Champey, 224 TACA Regional Airline, 41 230 Senior travel, 49 Tikal, 190–191 Shopping and markets, 24 TAG Airlines, 41 Antigua, 132–135 S Tikal, 191 best, 8–9 Safety, Antigua, 117 Taiwan, visas, 35 Chichicastenango, 169–170 Safety concerns, 47–48 Tajumulco volcano, 179 Cobán, 222 Guatemala City, 82, 84 Takalik Abaj (near Retalhuleu), Copán, 239–240 Salamá, 228 271, 273 Guatemala City, 105–107 Salcajá, 180–181 Takalik Maya Lodge (Retalhuleu), Livingston, 249 Salón Tecún (Quetzaltenango), 273 Panajachel, 146 185 Tapado, 251 Quetzaltenango, 182 San Andrés Xecul, 181 Taxes, 279 San Francisco El Alto, 181 San Antonio de Padua, Iglesia de Guatemala City, 84 Santiago de Atitlán, 158–159 (Retalhuleu), 272 Taxi Amarillo Express Sololá, 164 San Antonio Palopó, 160–162 (Guatemala City), 81 Shuttles, 37–38 Sanborn's Insurance Company, Taxi Blanco y Azul (Guatemala Panajachel, 140 37 City), 81 Sin Fronteras (Antigua), 114, 125, Sandwiches and snacks, 30 Taxi Blanco y Azul 136 San Francisco Church (Quetzaltenango), 178 Single travelers, 50 (Guatemala City), 100 Taxis Smoking, 279 San Francisco de Sales, 137 Antigua, 113, 114 Snakes, 46 San Francisco El Alto, 181 El Remate, 213 Sololá, 164 San Juan Atitlán, 189 Flores and Santa Elena, 204 Sophos (Guatemala City), 82, 84, San Juan Travel, 207 Guatemala City, 81 106 San Juan Travel (Tikal), 192 Huehuetenango, 186 South Acropolis. (Tikal), 199 San Marcos La Laguna, 162–164 Puerto Barrios, 257 Spanish conquest, 17–19 San Pedro La Laguna, 150–156 Quetzaltenango, 178 Spanish-language classes, 53–54 San Pedro Spanish School, 54, Tikal, 192 Antigua, 129–130 154 Taxis 2000 (Guatemala City), 81 Copán, 240 San Pedro volcano, 153 Taxis Las Americas (Guatemala Flores and Santa Elena, 207– San Simon, 179–180 City), 81 208 Santa Catalina Arch (Antigua), Taxis Palacios (Huehuetenango), Monterrico, 264 127 186 Panajachel, 144 Santa Catarina Palopó, 160–162 Tayasal, 207 Quetzaltenango, 181 Santa Cruz del Quiché, 173–175 Teatro Municipal San Andrés, 207 Santa Cruz La Laguna, 162–164 (Quetzaltenango), 179 San Pedro, 154 Santa Elena, 203–213 Teatro Roma (Quetzaltenango), Spanish School Jabel Tinamit accommodations, 209–212 179 (Panajachel), 144 getting around, 204, 206 Tecpán, 165 Spas and gyms, Guatemala City, nightlife, 212–213 Telephones, 58–59, 279 104 orientation, 206 Telgua, San Pedro, 153 Spas & Gyms, Antigua, 131 restaurants, 212 Temple III (Temple of the Great STA Travel, 49 sights and attractions, 206– Priest; Tikal), 197 Stelae Museum (Tikal), 199 209 Temple III (Tikal), 198 Stela no. 31 (Tikal), 199 traveling to, 204 Temple II (Tikal), 198 Stephens, John L., 235, 239 Santa Lucía Cotzumalguapa, Temple I (Temple of the Great Stoll, David, 27 274–276 Jaguar; Tikal), 198 Student travel, 49 Santa María volcano, 180 Temple IV (Temple of the Two- Sunrise and sunset viewing, Santiago Apóstol, Iglesia Headed Serpent; Tikal), 197 Tikal, 200 Parroquial (Santiago de Temple of the Great Priest Surfing, 269 Atitlán), 158 (Temple III; Tikal), 197

301

118_9780470887691-bindex.indd8_9780470887691-bindex.indd 301301 11/13/11/13/11 1:151:15 PMPM Temple of the Inscriptions Transportes Galgos Vivero Verapaz (Cobán), 220, (Temple VI; Tikal), 199 (Quetzaltenango), 176 222 Temple of the Two-Headed Transportes Rebuli (Panajachel), Voice-Over Internet Protocol Serpent (Temple IV; Tikal), 197 140 (VoIP), 59 Temple 16 (Copán), 235 Travel Assistance International, Volcán Acatenango, 137–138 Temple 216 (Yaxhá), 208 278 Volcán de Agua, 137 Temple VI (Temple of the Traveler's checks, 42 Volcán Fuego, 138 Inscriptions; Tikal), 199 Traveling to Guatemala, 36–37 Volcanoes. See also specific Temple V (Tikal), 199 Tropical illnesses, 45–46 volcanoes Templo El Calvario (Cobán), 220 Tropicool Disco (Livingston), 252 near Antigua, 136–138 Tennis, Guatemala City, 105 Trovajazz (Guatemala City), 109 Volcán Pacaya, 136–137 "Ten Years of Spring," 21 Tunkul Bar (Copán), 243 Volcán San Pedro, 153

GENERAL INDEX Textiles, 25. See also Huipiles Turansa, 38, 62 Volcán Santa María, 180 Antigua, 134–135 Cobán, 218 Volunteer and working trips, 51, Casa del Tejido Antiguo Guatemala City, 80, 110 55 (Antigua), 128 Panajachel, 140 Quetzaltenango, 182 Guatemala City, 106 Twin Complexes Q & R (Tikal), Vrisa Bookshop Textura (Antigua), 135 197 (Quetzaltenango), 178, 182 Thrifty car rentals, 39 Tzolkin calendar, 18 Guatemala City, 81 Tzul Tacca, 222 W Tica Bus Company, 37 Water, drinking, 84, 280 Tienda Típica Santa María U Websites, best, 15 (Antigua), 135 Uaxactún, 209 Wer (Antigua), 132 Tigo, 59 Ubafu (Livingston), 252 Western Highlands, 166–189 Tijax Express (Fronteras), 254 Ulew Tinimit Spanish School brief description of, 63 Tikal, 190–203 (Quetzaltenango), 54, 181 Western Union, 41 accommodations, 200–202 United Fruit Company, 186 Westin Camino Real (Guatemala books about, 28 United Kingdom City) day tour out of Guatemala customs regulations, 36 spa at, 104 City, 110 embassy, 277 tennis, 105 exploring, 193–200 health insurance, 278 White-water rafting, Cobán, 225 getting around, 192 passports, 279 Wi-Fi access, 60 making the most of your visit, tour operators based in, 57 Wildlife viewing, 23–24 196 visas, 35 William Shakespeare Pub nightlife, 203 United States (Guatemala City), 109 orientation, 193 customs regulations, 36 Wine Barcito (Copán), 243 restaurants, 202 embassy, 277 Women travelers, 49 traveling to, 190–192 passports, 279 Woodcarvings, El Remate, 214 walking tour of the ruins, visas, 35 Worldwide Assistance Services, 196–199 Utatlán (K'umarcaaj), 173–175 278 Tikal Museum (Sylvanus G. Utatlán Spanish School Morely Museum), 199 (Quetzaltenango), 181 Tikal National Park, 193, 196 X Time zone, 84, 280 Xela (Quetzaltenango), 176–185 Tipping, 280 V accommodations, 182–183 Todos Santos Chuchumatán, 179, Valhalla Macadamia Nut Farm, getting around, 178 185, 189 131 nightlife, 185 Toilets, 280 Vegetables, 30–31 orientation, 178 Topoxté, 208 Veloz Quichelense, 167 restaurants, 184–185 Tortuguerio Monterrico, 264–265 Verapaz region, 217 shopping, 182 Tourism police Viajes Don Pedro (Sayaxché), sights and attractions, 178– Antigua, 114, 117 209 179 Panajachel, 142 Via Venture, 38, 58, 114 Spanish-language classes, 181 Tourist information. See also Tikal, 192 tours, treks and attractions INGUAT Vía Vía Cafe (Copán), 243 around, 179–182 Antigua, 114 Villa Sumaya (Santa Cruz La traveling to, 176, 178 Copán, 235 Laguna), 162 Xela Who, 185 Guatemala City, 77, 80 Visa credit card, 43 Xetulul, 274 Train Museum (Quetzaltenango), Visas, 35 Xocomil, 274 179 Visitor information. See also Xocomil wind, 144 Transportes El Chato, 257 INGUAT Xukpi (Copán), 238 Transportes Esmeralda (Puerto Antigua, 114 San José), 268 Copán, 235 Y Guatemala City, 77, 80 Transportes Fortaleza del Sur Yaragua (Copán), 238 Vista Hermosa Book Shop (Retalhuleu), 271 Yaragua Tours (Copán), 238 (Guatemala City), 82

302

118_9780470887691-bindex.indd8_9780470887691-bindex.indd 302302 11/13/11/13/11 1:151:15 PMPM Yaxhá, 208 Dos Mundos Pacific Resort Hotel La Posada (Cobán), 226 Yaxhá, Lake, 208 (Monterrico), 265–266 Hotel La Posada (Copán), 241 Yoga retreat and meditation Dulce y Salado (Monterrico), 266 Hotel Mansión del Lago (San

centers El Convento (Antigua), 117 Pedro), 154–155 ACCOMMODATIONS INDEX Antigua, 131 Finca Tatin (Livingston), 250–251 Hotel Marbrissa (Puerto Barrios), northwest shore of Lake Grand Tikal Futura (Guatemala 258 Atitlan, 162 City), 93 Hotel Marina Copán, 240 Hacienda San Lucas (Copán), Hotel Martita (Puerto San José), Z 240 270 Hacienda Tijax (Fronteras), 255– Hotel Maya Internacional (Santa Zacapa rum, 107 256 Elena), 209 Zaculeu, 186–187 Holiday Inn (Guatemala City), 88 Hotel Modelo (Quetzaltenango), Zona Kokoloko's Hostal Casa Santa Maria 183 (Quetzaltenango), 185 (Retalhuleu), 272 Hotel Mon Ami (El Remate), 216 Zunil, 179 Hostal Doña Victoria (Cobán), Hotel Monja Blanca (Cobán), 226 226 Hotel Nana Juana (Fronteras), Hostal Las Marías (near Semuc 255 Accommodations Champey), 224 Hotel Petén Espléndido (Santa Amatique Bay Resort and Marina Hotel Aaculaax (San Marcos), Elena), 210 (Puerto Barrios), 258 163 Hotel Petén (Flores), 211 Bambú Hotel & Restaurant Hotel Ajau (Guatemala City), 91 Hotel Pez de Oro (Monterrico), (Santiago de Atitlán), 159–160 Hotel Alcazar Doña Victoria 266 Banana Palms (Fronteras), 255 (Cobán), 226–227 Hotel Posada de Don José Barceló Guatemala City, 88 Hotel Astor (Retalhuleu), 272 (Retalhuleu), 272 Best Western Stofella Hotel Atelie del Mar Hotel Posada de Don Rodrigo (Guatemala City), 89 (Monterrico), 266 (Antigua), 120 Biltmore Express (Guatemala Hotel Atitlán (Panajachel), 146– Hotel Posada La Merced City), 88–89 147 (Antigua), 121 Black Cat Hostel (Antigua), 121 Hotel Bonifaz (Quetzaltenango), Hotel Premier (Huehuetenango), Black Cat (Quetzaltenango), 183 182–183 187 Bruno's (Fronteras), 255 Hotel Brisas de Copán, 241 Hotel Primavera (Panajachel), Café del Sol (Monterrico), 266 Hotel Casa Blanca 148 Camino Real Tikal (near El (Huehuetenango), 187–188 Hotel Princess (Guatemala City), Remate), 215 Hotel Casa del Rey 90 Casa Azul (Antigua), 120 (Chichicastenango), 171–172 Hotel Puerto Libre (Puerto Casa Capuchinas (Antigua), 120 Hotel Casa Elena de las Flores, Barrios), 258 Casa Concepcion (Antigua), 119 211 Hotel Real Legendario (Salamá), Casa D'Acuña (Cobán), 226 Hotel Chalet (Chichicastenango), 229 Casa Doña Mercedes 172 Hotel Real Santander (Quetzaltenango), 183 Hotel Ciudad Vieja (Guatemala (Panajachel), 148 Casa Duranta (Cobán), 225 City), 89–90 Hotel Regis (Panajachel), 148 Casa Elena (San Pedro), 154 Hotel Colonial (Guatemala City), Hotel Rey Ki'che (Quiché), 175 Casa Encantada (Antigua), 119 91, 93 Hotel Río Dulce (Livingston), Casa Familiar (Todos Santos), Hotel del Norte (Puerto Barrios), 250 189 258 Hotel Ríos Tropicales Casa Mañen (Quetzaltenango), Hotel Del Patio (Santa Elena), (Livingston), 250 182 210 Hotel Royal (near Quiriguá), 260 Casa Ovalle (Antigua), 120 Hotel Dos Mundos (Panajachel), Hotel Royal Palace (Guatemala Casa Palopó (Santa Catarina 147 City), 91 Palopó), 161 Hotel El Peregrino (Esquipulas), Hotel Salvador Gaviota Casa Perico (Río Dulce), 255 232 (Livingston), 250 Casa Rosada (Copán), 240–241 Hotel El Recreo Lanquin Hotel San Carlos (Guatemala Casa Santo Domingo (Antigua), Champey, 224 City), 90 117–118 Hotel Gil Resort (Livingston), Hotel San Jorge (Antigua), 121 Catamaran Island Hotel 250 Hotel Santana (Flores), 211–212 (Fronteras), 255 Hotel Gran Sueño (San Pedro), Hotel Santiaguito (Santa Lucía), Chalet Suizo (Guatemala City), 154 275 91 Hotel Gringo Perdido (near El Hotel Santo Tomás Chiminos Island Lodge, 209 Remate), 215 (Chichicastenango), 172 Cissus Hotel (Antigua), 117 Hotel Isleta de Gaia (near Hotel Soleil Pacífico (Chulamar), The Cloister (Antigua), 120 Monterrico), 266 269 Crowne Plaza (Guatemala City), Hotelito Sak'cari (San Pedro), Hotel Spring (Guatemala City), 94 154 91 Dos Lunas Guest House Hotelito Todos Santos, 189 Hotel Terrazas del Lago (San (Guatemala City), 94 Hotel Ixil (Nebaj), 175 Antonio Palopó), 162

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118_9780470887691-bindex.indd8_9780470887691-bindex.indd 303303 11/13/11/13/11 1:151:15 PMPM Hotel Utz Tzaba (Monterrico), Posada de los Leones (Antigua), Café Mediterráneo (Antigua), 122 266 119 Café Mi Tierra (Huehuetenango), Hotel Valle Tropical (Puerto Posada de los Volcanes 188 Barrios), 258 (Panajachel), 148 Café Sky (Antigua), 125 Hotel Villa Caribe (Livingston), Posada de Santiago (Santiago Cafeteria Las Palmeras 249–250 de Atitlán), 160 (Huehuetenango), 188 Hotel Villa Maya (Santa Elena), Posada Don Rodrigo Caffé Opera (Antigua), 123 210 (Panajachel), 147 Capitán Tortuga (Flores and Hotel Villa Nebaj, 175 Posada El Delfín (Livingston), Santa Elena), 212 Hotel Villa Real Plaza 250 Carnitas N'ia Lola (Copán), 242 (Quetzaltenango), 183 Posada Montaña de Quetzal, 229 Carpaccio (Guatemala City), 95 Hotel Zaculeu (Huehuetenango), Posada Quetzal (near Puerto San Casa Babylon (Quetzaltenango), 188 José), 269 184 Jaguar Inn (Tikal), 201 Posada San Pedro (Antigua), 121 Casablanca (Panajachel), 149

RESTAURANT INDEX RESTAURANT Johnny's Place (Monterrico), 267 Posada Schumann (San Marcos Casa Chapina (Guatemala City), Jungle Lodge (Tikal), 201 La Laguna), 163–164 96 Jungle Party Hostel (Antigua), Radisson Hotel & Suites Casa D'Acuña (Cobán), 227 121 (Guatemala City), 89 Chile's (San Pedro), 155 Kafka (Antigua), 121 Ram Tzul, 229 Clio's (Guatemala City), 94 La Casa de Café (Copán), 241 Rancho Grande Inn (Panajachel), Club Ven Acá (Jaibalito), 164 La Casa de Don David Hotel (El 148 Como Como (Antigua), 122 Remate), 216 Real InterContinental Crossroads Café (Panajachel), La Casa del Mundo (Jaibalito), (Guatemala City), 88 149 163 Royal Park Hotel Deli Jasmín (Panajachel), 149 La Casa Grande (Guatemala (Huehuetenango), 188 Doña Luisa Xicoteneatl City), 90 Sailfish Bay Lodge (Iztapa), 270 (Antigua), 125 La Casa Rosada (Livingston), 251 Takalik Maya Lodge, 273–274 El Balcón de Enríquez La Casona de la Isla (Flores), Terraza Choi (Santa Catarina (Quetzaltenango), 184 210–211 Palopó), 161 El Bistro (Panajachel), 149 La Casona del Lago (Flores), 211 Tikal Inn, 201–202 El Descanso (Nebaj), 175 Laguna Lodge (Santa Cruz La Turicentro Tiosh Abaj (Santiago El Malecón (Livingston), 251 Laguna), 163 de Atitlán), 160 El Mirador Restaurant (Flores La Iguana Perdida (Santa Cruz), Villa de Don Andrés and Santa Elena), 212 163 (Quetzaltenango), 183 El Muelle (El Remate), 214 La Lancha Resort (El Remate), Villa Santa Catarina, 162 El Pasaje Mediterraneo 214–215 Villas B'alam Ya (Santa Catarina (Quetzaltenango), 184 La Mansión del Pájaro Serpiente Palopó), 161 El Peñascal (Cobán), 227 (El Remate), 216 Villa Sumaya (Santa Cruz La El Sabor del Tiempo (Antigua), Las Cumbres (Quetzaltenango), Laguna), 163 123 183 Westin Camino Real (Guatemala El Sereno (Antigua), 122 Mayan Inn (Chichicastenango), City), 88 Fata Morgana (San Pedro), 155 171 Xamanek Student Inn Frida's (Guatemala City), 96 MediaLuna MedioSol Hostal (Guatemala City), 90–91 Fusion (Antigua), 122 (Nebaj), 175 Yat B'alam (Copán), 241 Gaia (Antigua), 123–124 Mesón Panza Verde (Antigua), Guajimbo's (Panajachel), 149 118 Hacienda Real (Guatemala City), Mikaso Hotel (San Pedro), 155 96 Otelito Casa Santa Clara Restaurants Hacienda San Lucas (Copán), (Guatemala City), 89 Ambia (Guatemala City), 98 241–242 Pacific Fins (Iztapa), 270 Arrin Cuan (Guatemala City), Happy Fish (Livingston), 252 Palacio de Doña Leonor 97–98 Hector's (Antigua), 124 (Antigua), 118 Bahía Azul (Livingston), 251 Hotel Atitlán (Panajachel), 149 Piramide Paraiso (El Remate), Bistrot 5 (Antigua), 123 Hotel Mon Ami (El Remate), 214 215 Blind Lemon's (Santiago de Hotel Puerto Libre (Puerto Plaza Copán Hotel, 241 Atitlán), 164 Barrios), 258 Portahotel Antigua, 118–119 Bruno's (Río Dulce), 256 Isla Verde (Santa Cruz), 164 Porta Hotel del Lago Bugamama (Livingston), 251 Jake's (Guatemala City), 95 (Panajachel), 147 Café Arqueológico Yaxhá (Flores Jarachik (San Pedro), 155 Porta Hotel Legendario and Santa Elena), 212 Kacao (Guatemala City), 95–96 (Esquipulas), 231 Café Bavaria (Quetzaltenango), La Casa Rosada (Livingston), Portal de la Fe (Esquipulas), 232 184 252 Posada Asjemenou (Antigua), Café Bombay (Panajachel), 150 La Fonda de la Calle Real 121 Café Condesa (Antigua), 124 (Antigua), 124 Posada Belén Museum Inn Café Fantasia (Cobán), 227 La Hacienda (Esquipulas), 232 (Guatemala City), 93 Café Flor (Antigua), 124–125 La Luna (Flores and Santa Posada del Angel (Antigua), 119 Café La Luna (Quetzaltenango), Elena), 212 184

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118_9780470887691-bindex.indd8_9780470887691-bindex.indd 304304 11/13/11/13/11 1:151:15 PMPM La Rotunda (Esquipulas), 232 Restaurante & Bar Europa Sabor de la India Las Brasas (Chichicastenango), (Guatemala City), 98 (Quetzaltenango), 184–185 173 Restaurante Cardinali Shanti Shanti (San Pedro), 155

Las Brasas (Huehuetenango), (Quetzaltenango), 184 Sunset Café (Panajachel), 150 RESTAURANT INDEX 188 Restaurante Casa San Juan Sushi-Itto (Guatemala City), 94 Las Chinitas (Panajachel), 149 (Chichicastenango), 173 Taberna El Pelícano Llama del Bosque (Copán), 242 Restaurante Fe (San Marcos), (Monterrico), 267 L'Ostería (Guatemala City), 98 164 Tamarindos (Guatemala City), 95 McTropic (Livingston), 251 Restaurante La Luna Tapas y Cañas (Guatemala City), Mesón Panza Verde (Antigua), (Retalhuleu), 272 96–97 122 Restaurante Los Cofradías Tartines (Antigua), 124 Momo's (Copán), 242 (Chichicastenango), 172 Tocoyal (Panajachel), 150 Nokiate (Antigua), 122–123 Restaurante Río Bravo (Río Trattoria La Genovese da Alfredo Otelito Casa Santa Clara Dulce), 256 (Quetzaltenango), 184 (Guatemala City), 94 Restaurante Safari (Puerto Tre Fratelli (Guatemala City), 97 Panadería San Martin Barrios), 259 Tu Café (Chichicastenango), 173 (Guatemala City), 97 Restaurante Vista Rio Twisted Tanya's (Copán), 242 Pecorino (Guatemala City), 94 (Fronteras), 256 Vamos A Ver (Copán), 242 Pizza Copán (Copán), 242 Restaurante y Cantina Dos Vía Vía Cafe (Copán), 242–243 Pizza Italia (Copán), 242 Tejanos (Quetzaltenango), 184 Welten (Antigua), 123 Pizzeria Picasso (Flores), 212 Royal Paris (Quetzaltenango), X'kape Kob'an (Cobán), 227 Popi's (Nebaj), 175 184 Zoola (San Pedro), 155 Queso y Vino (Antigua), 122 Zumo (Guatemala City), 95 Restaurante Altuna (Guatemala City), 97

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118_9780470887691-bindex.indd8_9780470887691-bindex.indd 305305 11/13/11/13/11 1:151:15 PMPM