02_922420 ftoc.qxp 8/25/06 10:20 PM Page iii

Contents

List of Maps ix

What’s New in 1 by David Baird & Lynne Bairstow

1 The Best of Mexico 9 by David Baird & Lynne Bairstow

1 The Best Beach Vacations ...... 9 8 The Best Shopping ...... 18 2 The Best Cultural Experiences ...... 12 9 The Best Luxury Hotels ...... 19 3 The Best Archaeological Sites ...... 13 10 The Best Unique Inns ...... 20 4 The Best Active Vacations ...... 14 11 The Best Inexpensive Inns ...... 22 5 The Best of Natural Mexico ...... 15 12 The Best Spa Resorts ...... 23 6 The Best Places to Get Away 13 The Best Mexican Food & Drink . . . .24 from It All ...... 16 7 The Best Art, Architecture & Museums ...... 17

2 Planning Your Trip to Mexico 26 by David Baird & Lynne Bairstow 1The Regions in Brief ...... 26 10 The 21st-Century Traveler ...... 52 2 Visitor Information ...... 28 Online Traveler’s Toolbox ...... 53 Destination Mexico: Red Alert 11 Getting There ...... 54 Checklist ...... 28 Luxury Bus Service from the 3 Entry Requirements & Customs . . . . .29 Mexico City Airport ...... 54 4 Money ...... 31 Getting Through the Airport ...... 55 5 When to Go ...... 34 12 Packages for the Independent Mexico Calendar of Events ...... 35 Traveler ...... 59 6 COPYRIGHTEDTravel Insurance ...... 41 13 MATERIALThe Active Traveler ...... 62 7 Health & Safety ...... 42 14 Getting Around Mexico ...... 65 Treating & Avoiding Digestive 15 Tips on Accommodations ...... 68 Trouble ...... 46 16 Tips on Dining ...... 70 8 Specialized Travel Resources ...... 47 17 Recommended Books & Films ...... 73 9 Planning Your Trip Online ...... 51 Fast Facts: Mexico ...... 74 Frommers.com: The Complete Travel Resource ...... 52 02_922420 ftoc.qxp 8/25/06 10:20 PM Page iv

iv CONTENTS

3 Suggested Mexico Itineraries 81 by David Baird 1 Central Mexico’s Pre-Columbian 4 Los Cabos to Copper Canyon ...... 85 Treasures in a Week ...... 81 5 La Ruta Maya in 2 Weeks ...... 86 2 Mexico’s Best Shopping in a Week . . .83 3 The Best of Western Mexico in a Week ...... 84

4 Mexico City 89 by Lynne Bairstow 1 Orientation ...... 90 ¡Café, Por Favor! ...... 121 Important Taxi Safety Precautions 5 Exploring Mexico City ...... 121 in Mexico City ...... 92 6 Organized Tours ...... 141 The Neighborhoods in Brief ...... 97 7 Shopping ...... 142 2 Getting Around ...... 99 8 Mexico City After Dark ...... 145 Fast Facts: Mexico City ...... 104 9 A Side Trip to the Pyramids of 3 Where to Stay ...... 107 San Juan Teotihuacán ...... 149 4 Where to Dine ...... 115

5 Silver, Spas & Spiritual Centers: From Taxco to Tepoztlán 154 by Lynne Bairstow 1 Taxco: Cobblestones & Silver . . . . .154 4 Cuernavaca: Land of Eternal Spanish & Art Classes in Taxco . . . .158 Spring ...... 169 2 Ixtapan de la Sal: A Thermal Fast Facts: Cuernavaca ...... 172 Spa Town ...... 165 5 Tepoztlán ...... 179 3 Valle de Bravo & Avándaro: Mexico’s Switzerland ...... 167

6 San Miguel de Allende & the Colonial Silver Cities 183 by David Baird 1 San Miguel de Allende ...... 184 3 Santiago de Querétaro ...... 213 Fast Facts: San Miguel de Allende . . .188 Fast Facts: Querétaro ...... 214 Learning at the Source: Going to Shopping for Opals ...... 217 School in San Miguel ...... 190 4 Zacatecas ...... 221 2 Guanajuato ...... 199 Fast Facts: Zacatecas ...... 222 Fast Facts: Guanajuato ...... 202 5 San Luis Potosí ...... 230 The Redolent Mexican Cantina . . . .212 Fast Facts: San Luis Potosí ...... 232 02_922420 ftoc.qxp 8/25/06 10:20 PM Page v

CONTENTS v

7 Michoacán 238 by David Baird 1 Morelia ...... 239 Fast Facts: Pátzcuaro ...... 252 Fast Facts: Morelia ...... 240 3 Uruapan: Handicrafts & Michoacán’s Monarch Migration . . .249 Volcanoes ...... 259 2 Pátzcuaro ...... 250

8 Guadalajara 263 by David Baird

1 Orientation ...... 263 4 Where to Dine ...... 272 The Neighborhoods in Brief ...... 264 5 Exploring Guadalajara ...... 275 2 Getting Around ...... 266 6 Shopping ...... 279 Fast Facts: Guadalajara ...... 267 7 Guadalajara After Dark ...... 282 3 Where to Stay ...... 268 Tequila: The Name Says It All . . . . .283

9 Puerto Vallarta & the Central Pacific Coast 284 by Lynne Bairstow

1 Puerto Vallarta ...... 284 Mazatlán’s Carnaval: A Weeklong Fast Facts: Puerto Vallarta ...... 290 Party ...... 340 A Huichol Art Primer: 3 Costa Alegre: Puerto Vallarta to Shopping Tips ...... 303 Barra de Navidad ...... 348 2 Mazatlán ...... 332 4 Manzanillo ...... 358 Fast Facts: Mazatlán ...... 336 Fast Facts: Manzanillo ...... 361

10 Acapulco & the Southern Pacific Coast 369 by Lynne Bairstow 1 Acapulco ...... 370 Fast Facts: Puerto Escondido . . . . .412 Fast Facts: Acapulco ...... 375 Ecotours & Other Adventurous 2 Northward to Zihuatanejo Explorations ...... 414 & Ixtapa ...... 393 4 Bahías de Huatulco ...... 423 Fast Facts: Zihuatanejo & Ixtapa . . .396 Fast Facts: Bahías de Huatulco . . . .425 3 Puerto Escondido ...... 409 02_922420 ftoc.qxp 8/25/06 10:20 PM Page vi

vi CONTENTS

11 The Southernmost States: Oaxaca & Chiapas 432 by David Baird

1 Oaxaca City ...... 434 3 Palenque ...... 463 Fast Facts: Oaxaca ...... 438 4 San Cristóbal de las Casas ...... 472 Oaxacan Street Food ...... 449 The Zapatista Movement Shopping Splendor: Oaxaca’s & Chiapas ...... 472 Market Villages ...... 454 Fast Facts: San Cristóbal de las 2 Villahermosa ...... 460 Casas ...... 475

12 Veracruz & Puebla: On the Heels of Cortez 488 by David Baird

1 Veracruz City ...... 488 3 Colonial Puebla ...... 504 Fast Facts: Veracruz ...... 490 Fast Facts: Puebla ...... 506 2 Exploring North of Veracruz: Ruins, Cinco de Mayo & the Battle More Ruins & a Great Museum . . .497 of Puebla ...... 509

13 Cancún 518 by Lynne Bairstow 1 Orientation ...... 519 4 Beaches, Watersports & The Best Websites for Cancún . . . .520 Boat Tours ...... 539 Fast Facts: Cancún ...... 523 5 Outdoor Activities & Attractions . . .543 2 Where to Stay ...... 525 6 Shopping ...... 545 3 Where to Dine ...... 534 7 Cancún After Dark ...... 546

14 & 549 by David Baird & Lynne Bairstow

1 Isla Mujeres ...... 549 2 Cozumel ...... 563 The Best Websites for Isla An All-Inclusive Vacation in Mujeres & Cozumel ...... 550 Cozumel ...... 566 Fast Facts: Isla Mujeres ...... 553 Fast Facts: Cozumel ...... 568

The Caribbean Coast: The , Including 15 & the 581 by David Baird

1 Playa del Carmen ...... 583 Choosing an All-Inclusive in Fast Facts: Playa del Carmen . . . . .585 the Riviera Maya ...... 592 02_922420 ftoc.qxp 8/25/06 10:21 PM Page vii

CONTENTS vii 2 North of Playa del Carmen ...... 594 6 Majahual, & the 3 South of Playa del Carmen ...... 600 Chinchorro Reef ...... 614 4 , & Sian Ka’an . . .606 7 Lago ...... 616 5 Cobá Ruins ...... 610 8 ...... 618 The Sian Ka’an Biosphere 9 Side Trips to Maya Ruins from Reserve ...... 611 Chetumal ...... 620

16 Mérida, Chichén Itzá & the Maya Interior 621 by David Baird

The Best Websites for Mérida, Of Haciendas & Hotels ...... 638 Chichén Itzá & the Maya Interior . . .623 2 The Ruins of Uxmal ...... 648 1 Mérida: Gateway to the Maya 3 Campeche ...... 655 Heartland ...... 623 Fast Facts: Campeche ...... 657 Festivals & Special Events in 4 The Ruins of Chichén Itzá ...... 661 Mérida ...... 626 Fast Facts: Mérida ...... 627 5 Valladolid ...... 668

17 The Copper Canyon 673 by David Baird

1 The Copper Canyon Train & Stops 2 Los Mochis: The Western along the Way ...... 675 Terminus ...... 685 Choosing a Package or Tour 3 Chihuahua: The Eastern Terminus . . .687 Operator ...... 676 Fast Facts: Chihuahua ...... 688

18 Los Cabos & Baja California 693 by Lynne Bairstow

1 Los Cabos: Resorts, Watersports Whale-Watching in Baja ...... 745 & Golf ...... 694 5 Tijuana & Rosarito Beach ...... 745 Fast Facts: San José del Cabo . . . . .699 First Crush: The Annual Harvest Fast Facts: Cabo San Lucas ...... 713 Festival ...... 748 Surf & Sleep ...... 718 A Northern Baja Spa Sanctuary . . . .751 2 Todos Santos: A Creative Oasis . . . .725 Surfing, Northern Baja Style ...... 754 3 La Paz: Peaceful Port Town ...... 727 6 Ensenada: Port of Call ...... 754 Fast Facts: La Paz ...... 729 4 Mid-Baja: Loreto, Mulegé & Santa Rosalía ...... 736 02_922420 ftoc.qxp 8/25/06 10:21 PM Page viii

viii CONTENTS

Appendix A: Mexico in Depth 757 by David Baird

1 The Land & Its People ...... 757 2 A Look at the Past ...... 758

Appendix B: Useful Terms & Phrases 764

Index 767 02_922420 ftoc.qxp 8/25/06 10:21 PM Page ix

List of Maps

Mexico 10 Downtown Guadalajara 277 Central Mexico’s Pre-Columbian Puerto Vallarta: Hotel Zone Treasures 82 & Beaches 285 Mexico’s Best Shopping 84 Downtown Puerto Vallarta 301 The Best of Western Mexico 85 Mazatlán Area 333 Los Cabos to Copper Canyon 86 Costa Alegre & Central Pacific La Ruta Maya 87 Coast 349 Mexico City & Environs 91 Barra de Navidad Bay Area 355 Downtown Mexico City 100 Manzanillo Area 359 Polanco/Chapultepec Area 109 Acapulco Bay Area 372 Historic Downtown Zihuatanejo & Ixtapa Area 395 (Centro Histórico) 123 Downtown Zihuatanejo 401 Chapultepec Park 125 Puerto Escondido 411 Coyoacán 127 Oaxaca Area 433 San Angel 129 Downtown Oaxaca 435 Alameda Park Area 131 Monte Albán 453 Teotihuacán 151 Villahermosa Area 461 Side Trips from Mexico City 156 Palenque Archaeological Site 465 Taxco 159 Where to Stay & Dine in Palenque 469 Ixtapan de la Sal 166 San Cristóbal de las Casas 473 Valle de Bravo & Avándaro 168 Chiapas Highlands 487 Cuernavaca 171 Downtown Veracruz 489 The Colonial Silver Cities 185 Xalapa Orientation 499 Where to Stay in San Miguel Puebla 505 de Allende 187 Tlaxcala 515 Guanajuato 201 Downtown Cancún 521 Santiago de Querétaro 215 Isla Cancún (Zona Hotelera) 527 Zacatecas 223 Isla Mujeres 551 San Luis Potosí 231 Cozumel 565 Morelia 241 San Miguel de Cozumel 571 Pátzcuaro 251 Playa del Carmen 585 Uruapan 261 The Yucatán’s Upper Caribbean Greater Guadalajara 265 Coast 595 02_922420 ftoc.qxp 8/25/06 10:21 PM Page x

The Yucatán’s Lower Caribbean San José del Cabo 697 Coast 615 The Two Cabos & the Corridor 708 Where to Stay & Dine in Mérida 635 Cabo San Lucas 711 The Copper Canyon 674 The Lower Baja Peninsula 737 Chihuahua 689 Tijuana 747 The Baja Peninsula 695 The Upper Baja Peninsula 753