BOBBINWORK: AND EMBROIDERY Brought to you by: Bobbinwork What do you do with beautiful decorative threads, thin ribbon, or cording that is too thick to fit through the needle of a ?

Turn it upside down, of course! Wind decorative threads, thin ribbon or cording around the and sew your project upside down. The top will the over-sized threads right to the bottom of the fabric. You can use the technique of bobbin work with virtually any kind of stitching your sewing machine can do: • straight • zigzag stitching • open decorative stitching • free-motion stitching • and even machine embroidery (with the right designs). What thread do I use?

• Try using bobbin work with decorative threads, pearl cotton, , ribbon floss, or similar weighted cords and trims. • Pearl Crown Rayon, Pearle Cotton, Superior Razzle Dazzle, Wonderfil cords, Cordonet. • Look for and fibers that are smooth and have minimal texture. Fibers must pass through the bobbin case’s tension area like a regular bobbin thread. Run your fingers across the fiber to feel for any rough spots that might give a sewing machine a hard time. • Wind the bobbin at a slow speed to make sure the thick thread or cording is wound evenly around the bobbin. If using flat ribbon or super chunky yarns, you may need to hand wind a bobbin. • Adjust the bobbin winder’s speed to wind Bobbin Winding slower than normal. Hold the fibers with a little resistance between your fingers and Upper and let the bobbin winder spin it on to the bobbin with a little hand-held Threading resistance. • The top thread should match the bobbin thread color for best results in an appropriate weight and fiber to coordinate with the needle you will be using. What type of bobbin does your machine have?

• CB Hook • Rotary Hook • B9 Hook • Drop in • 8 Series Hook Finding the right bobbin case Many sewing machine manufacturers make a specialty bobbin case for bobbinwork. These bobbin cases are not the same bobbin case that came with the sewing machine. They usually are a different color and have a longer screw to adjust the tension setting depending on the thickness of thread. It is NOT recommended to adjust the bobbin case tension of the bobbin case that came with the machine. That bobbin case has been correctly set for sewing thread. Leave it be.

• Drop in - purchase a second bobbin case • CB Hook - purchase a second bobbin case (black latch bobbin case) • Rotary Hook - purchase a second bobbin case • B9 Hook - purchase a RED bobbin case • 8 Series Hook - special threading process to loosen or bypass tension

Reducing Tension on an 8 Series Hook

• The BERNINA 880 requires a slight adjustment to the bobbin tension using the multi- function tool. • Loosen the bobbin tension 2-4 clicks to the left. Bypassing Tension on an 8 Series Hook

If using threads that are too large for the slot, flat ribbons or yarns, you bypass the slot Machine Preparation • Turn the handwheel so that the needle will pull the bobbin thread to the top, leaving a long thread tail about 6-7” long. • Reduce the sewing speed • Use an open toed foot such as the Open embroidery foot #20 to help you see exactly where you are stitching. • Turn off any Automatic Securing Stitches Fabric Preparation

• If using decorative stitches, a tear away stabilizer will help support the fabric while stitching. You could also lightly starch the fabric or use Best Press for additional support.

• You may also wish to draw the design on the wrong side of the fabric or stabilizer. Choosing the best stitch for bobbin work • Use simple practical or decorative stitches with low density. Do use not satin stitches, as the cord will stack upon itself. • Look for decorative stitches with wide, open looking designs. Avoid decorative stitches with too much back-and-forth stitching or elements that are very close together. • Increase the stitch width or stitch length to allow room for the cords. • Start with a 4mm stitch width and fine-tune from there. Avoid stitches that are too close together that may bunch-up the larger thread or cord

Test-Test-Test • Test sew and adjust top tension until you are happy with the stitch. • Adjust top tension if needed, the bobbin thread should be laying against the fabric without being squeezed too tight or drooping too loosely. • Because the weight of the bobbin thread is heavier than the top thread, the top thread may pull down and end up being visible on the right side of the fabric. You will need to test sew to know if this is happening. If it is, simply increase the top tension until you no longer see the top thread on the right side of the fabric. And yes, sometimes the tension will have to be as high as it will go! • Not all stitches will look great using the bobbinwork process, but that is for you to decide. How to sew:

• Place fabric under the presser foot right side down. • Stabilizer, if needed, should be placed on top of the wrong side of the fabric. • Always bring the bobbin thread tail up through the top thread before starting to stitch to avoid thread nests and machine jams. • Hold on to the bobbin thread/cord as you begin to sew to be sure it does not get tangled under the presser foot. • Once you have finished sewing, do not use the machine thread cutter. Instead, pull the fabric from under the foot, keeping a long bobbin thread tail. • After clipping long thread tails, both thread tails will need to be pulled to the wrong side of the fabric using a large eye or tapestry needle as shown. Machine Embroidered Bobbinwork

• Certain designs are needed to be successful. • They are made up of a simple outline and have no knots or tie off stitches at the beginning or the end of the design. • For bobbin work, the stabilizer is attached to the back of the fabric and the fabric is placed with the right side down in the hoop. The stabilizer is therefore on top of the fabric in the hoop. • Setup tension and threading just like if you were sewing the bobbinwork, Questions?

More Information can be found at: What is Bobbin Work | WeAllSew Bobbinwork for 7 and 8 Series Machines | WeAllSew Bobbin Work with the BERNINA Hook System | WeAllSew Bobbinwork for Beginners