DEAR GEMüTLICHKEIT SUBSCRIBER The Travel Letter for Germany, Austria, Switzerland & the New Europe

On our best behavior When it first became a regular feature in August of 1990, Dear Sub- : The Swiss Capital scriber was envisioned as a place to expound some sort of “Gemütlichkeit From museums to gardens to—bears? —Switzerland’s underrated capital philosophy” where lofty ideas about offers an appealing blend of medieval roots and modern culture. the more cerebral and spiritual as- pects of travel could be explored. ern ranks among the most beau- that hurtle down some of the other- Though a conscious decision was tiful and unique capital cities in wise car-free streets). The architec- never made not to, the notion never B the World. Indeed, in 1983 its ture also has a strikingly unified became reality. The result of this Altstadt was selected as a UNESCO feeling: The city’s arcades (covered aimless policy is that we have left the World Heritage Site for its “positive walkways) are framed by tall arches; deep stuff to those who beat the example of how a medieval urban elaborate fountains built in the six- structure can be adapt- drum for politically correct travel; by Ben Raphael teenth century depict men, women, the ones who use terms such as “sus- ed to fulfill functions and animals wearing bright colors; tainability” and sometimes go so far which are increasingly complex, nota- and stone building facades, sharing as to question whether ordinary bly the function of a capital city of a the same shade of soft brownish Americans are even culturally so- modern State.” While the Altstadt’s (old gray, are distinguished only by slight phisticated enough to travel abroad. town) low-key atmosphere, cobble- differences in their ornate, gold-ac- The 60 Minutes reporter, Morley stone streets, and many shops, are cented window grates. Squeezed Safer, once suggested too many typical of other Swiss towns, Bern man- inside a tight, horseshoe bend of the American visitors are a factor in the ages to set itself apart in myriad ways. Aare River, the Altstadt is also home rapid decay of Europe’s ancient trea- Its straight, wide, arcade-lined to several impressive bridges that sures. His solution? Stay home. streets—first laid-out in the 12th cen- not only offer views of the fast-mov- ing, crystal-clear river, but of the Given year after year of record tury—are different from Switzer- surrounding hills. travel numbers to Europe, we’ve land’s more typical narrow, winding obviously rejected Morley’s silly lanes. (Watch out for trams and buses Continued on page 3… suggestion. Nonetheless, I suppose keeping us clueless, shorts-clad Great Black Forest Eats American tourists on our best be- havior overseas is a job somebody This review of Baiersbronn’s two most ded polenta with a creamy chive has to do. (Don’t misunderstand, celebrated restaurants is the second and sauce. Next was an oddly pink Bre- Gemütlichkeit is all for good man- final installment of Lydia Itoi’s report ton lobster, probably marinated and ners abroad: please don’t take pic- on the Black Forest resort. served cold on avocado-basil puree tures in the cathedral when the with a second cantaloupe sauce. I Restaurant Bareiss sign says “please don’t take pic- couldn’t decide if this combo was tures;” wear appropriate clothing; The dining room is small and successful, but the marriage with a don’t use the hotel’s buffet break- feels very old school formal. Tall Baden 2003 Myophorium was bril- fast to build your picnic lunch; do silver candlesticks flicker over the liant. Mr. Fendt, the sommelier, was white marble fire- try to speak a little of the language; by Lydia Itoi a wonderful guide to the local wines, be observant of local customs, and place, and the rich explaining that the area was full of so on.) Though there are times I’ve silk curtains and paneled walls shut sea fossils and that this particular cringed in the presence of fellow out the rest of the world. We got off wine had spent a year and a half in Americans acting foolishly, I wish I to a predictable start with solemn oak grown not 200 yards from the could say I was without sin. As an little canapés and the now required vineyards. The long barreling had invited dinner guest to private spoonfuls of chopped raw tuna tar- created a marvelous creamy com- homes, I took gifts of wine until I tare and tiny nibbles of cured salm- plexity that did not overwhelm the discovered that some European on prepared three ways. The first fruit. The kitchen then sent out a hosts interpret this gesture of call to attention was the rosy slice of Continued on page 7… goodwill as indicating their own veal raised right here at the Bareiss’ Exchange rates as of 7/3/2007 wine isn’t good enough. In my Morlokhof farm. It was draped over 1 euro = $1.36 a square of tomato and olive-stud- Continued on page 2… 1 Swiss franc = $0.82 www.gemut.com July 2007 www.gemut.com

DEAR SUBSCRIBER car. After a few seconds she looked at me. Thinking perhaps she spoke a little English, and that this could still Continued from page 1 directly at him and, while slowly shaking her head, waved one long be amicably worked out, I left my ignorance I have no doubt commit- index finger from side to side like a chair and approached her with my ted many gaffes of which I was total- metronome. Message delivered: get best pasted on smile. She took a cou- ly unaware. Others have been quick- that hog washed. ple of steps toward me and we both ly brought to my attention. Once driv- stopped, facing each other about 15 ing between Munich and Salzburg on My greatest travel humiliation came on our first trip to Germany feet apart. By now, of course, we had the Autobahn, I passed a man in a the full attention of the entire dining $100,000 Mercedes sports coupe go- many years ago in a restaurant where no English was spoken...whatsoever. room. I’ve never seen an angrier Ger- ing at precisely the 80 kmph speed man. She pointed a bratwurst of a To someone with zero German, the limit marked for that section. As I finger at me and in German said, menu item Matjesfilet “Hamburger eased by him at about 100 kmph, he “When in Germany, speak German.” Art” might sound vaguely like meat. chastised my disregard for the law by At that she turned and marched back Wrong. It is several small whole, cold flashing at me from his car’s window to the kitchen, leaving me like Ralph herring; heads, eyes, tails, fins, gills, a small replica of the 80 kmph speed Kramden, mouth moving but no scales, skin, the works. As appetizing limit sign. No doubt he had more sound. I rejoined Liz, the waitress as those dead fish were lying there on signs at the ready for other scofflaws. brought us some perfectly good lamb that bed of lettuce, they just weren’t (By now you’ve spotted the cultural chops, we ate quickly, paid and left. going to work as my dinner. I would difference; Teutonic advance plan- There was no charge for the fish. ning vs. the New World’s spur-of-the- pay for them, of course, willingly, but moment single digit.) I needed something else, something So we’ll leave the travel preach- hot, something, say, in a pig or a heif- ments to others and just keep A Navy friend told me this story: er or a duck or maybe a sheep. I pumping out the usual, where to On a Christmas Day sometime in the would even take vital organs, but no sleep, eat, sightsee, and how to get ‘70s he and his family drove from his cold fish, thank you. My attempt to around info—all the while trying to base in Italy to Garmisch-Partenkirch- communicate an apology to our most stay on our best behavior. — RHB en. During the trip they ran into pleasant waitress for being an igno- snowstorms and passed through Using Gemütlichkeit rant American, happy to consume highway construction zones. At the • Hotel prices listed are for one night. Discounts are one dinner but pay for two (I figured often available for longer stays. end of the trip, his car was a muddy since I never touched the fish they • All hotel prices include breakfast unless otherwise mess. In Garmisch, however, roads noted. could be re-sold as low-mileage, pre- were covered in fresh, packed snow • Local European telephone area codes carry the “0” owned Matjes), failed miserably. The required for in-country dialing. To phone establish- and the sky was a deep, cloudless good woman naturally assumed it ments from outside the country, such as from the USA, blue; in other words a glorious day. do not dial the first “0”. Pausing at a red light in the center of was all her fault for not speaking En- town he looked over at the car glish. The cook, a broad-shouldered, Logging on to Our Website stopped in the lane next to him, a NFL linebacker-sized woman, saw it Back issues in PDF format from January 1993, except for the most recent 10, are available free to subscribers only at gleaming BMW, obviously washed differently. As the waitress related the sad story to our cook at the kitchen www.gemut.com (click on “Members”). To access the that very morning. Its driver, a 60ish issues, enter the user name and password published in woman, passed her steely eyes slowly entrance, Frau Butkus’ face darkened this space each month. The new codes are: over the length of my friend’s filthy and her eyes blazed across the room User Name: bbrn Password: 6924

Vol. 21, No. 6 HOTEL RESTAURANT RATING KEY July 2007 GEMüTLICHKEIT The Travel Letter for Germany, Austria, Switzerland & the New Europe Rating Scale Scale Restaurant Criteria Excellent 16 - 20 Food 65% Publishers:Publishers:Robert Robert H. H.& Elizabeth& Elizabeth S. S. Bestor Bestor Above Average 12 - 15 Service 20% Editor:Executive Editor:Robert Nikki H. Goth Bestor Itoi Average 8 - 11 Atmosphere 15% Contributors:Contributors:Doug Linton, C. Fischer, R. Holliday, Jim Tom Johnson Bross Web Master: Paul T. MerschdorfLydia Itoi Adequate 4 - 7 ConsultingConsulting Editor: Editor: Thomas Thomas P. P. Bestor Bestor Unacceptable 0 - 3 SubscriptionOnline Services: Dept: Kurt Kurt Steffans Steffans SubscriberSubscriber Travel Travel Services: Services: Andy Andy Bestor, Bestor, Laura Laura Riedel Riedel Hotel Rating Criteria Value Rating Scale Gemütlichkeit (ISSN 10431756) is published 10 times each year by UpCountry Publishing, 288 Ridge Road, Ashland OR 97520. TOLL FREE: 1-800/521- People/Service 30% Outstanding Value 17 - 20 6722 or 541/488-8462, fax: 541/488-8468, e-mail [email protected]. Web Location/Setting 15% Very Good Value 12 - 16 site: www.gemut.com. Subscriptions are $67 per year for 10 issues. While every effort is made to provide correct information, the publishers can make Guestrooms 30% Average Value 9 - 11 no guarantees regarding accuracy. Public rooms 5% Below Average Value 5 - 8 POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO: Facilities/Restaurant 20% A Rip-Off 0 - 4 Gemütlichkeit, 288 Ridge Road., Ashland OR 97520

Gemütlichkeit 2 July 2007 www.gemut.com

BERN Bern Basics Bern’s Tuesday and Saturday street markets are lively and diverse. Continued from page 1 Population: 130,000 Locals and tourists meandering Elevation: 542 meters (1,778 ft.) A good way to get a sense of the among the Bärenplatz vendor stalls Visitor information: Railway Station, CH- city is to stroll up to the Rosegarten, can purchase everything from fruit to on a hill across the Aare. Walk down 3001 Bern, tel. +41/031/311 6611, fax 312 1233, [email protected], jewelry to stuffed animals. Nydeggbrücke street, past the Bear www.berninfo.com/en/welcome.cfm Perhaps the best time to visit Bern Pits (see below), and then follow the Driving distances from Bern to: signs uphill to the garden. In spring is in the summer, when the many Basel 101 km 63 miles cafés have outdoor seating. But any- and summer, you’ll pass fields of Geneva 156 km 97 miles yellow, purple, and white wildflow- Interlaken 58 km 36 miles time is good for exploring the Altstadt ers before entering the manicured Lausanne 106 km 66 miles and walking by the Aare. grounds. Bounded by a stone wall, Lucerne 118 km 73 miles Zürich 125 km 78 miles Bern Hotels the garden has shrub-lined pathways, The Altstadt is packed with hotels, subtle fountains, delicately designed Rail/bus times to: but even in quieter digs on the out- flower beds, trellises and, of course, Zurich 0:58 many roses, (depending on the sea- Lucerne 1:05 skirts of town, you’re never far from Basel 0:54 the city’s lively culture and attractions. son). There are big grassy areas, shad- Lausanne 1:06 ed by large birches and pines, where Interlaken 0:54 Hotel Belle Epoque in good weather locals sprawl on Geneva 1:41 Since this hotel was last reviewed blankets and kick soccer balls. There’s Closest airports: in 1998 there have been a few ’S also a café tucked in one corner. Zurich, Geneva, Basel/Mulhouse changes. Most notably, new EDITOR But the best part of the garden is Events: owners took over in 2003 and, CHOICE the view back down to Bern. In this Bern Dance Days, mid-June though they leased some of the won- single panorama, one gets a sense of Gurten Festival: music festival on Gurten derful turn-of-the-century/Art Nou- all that makes Switzerland a unique hill in Bern, July 19-22, 2007 veau art and furniture from the previ- destination: the Altstadt’s red-hued Bern Onion Market: 4th Sunday in Nov. ous owners, much of it is gone. Each roof shingles clustered within the Carnival in Bern: February 2008 room now holds roughly 10 pieces of curve of the Aare, steeples rising from the pits a few years ago (by adding original art—down from about 50. the mass of more modern buildings some dead trees and boulders) appar- Still there, however, is the original beyond, all backdropped by a slice of ently animal laws prevent them from Toulouse Lautrec poster hanging the Alps. It’s easy to spend an entire replacing Urs. Thus fundraising for a across from the bar and pieces by afternoon up here, admiring the view, new bear park is underway. Guimard, the architect who designed smelling the flowers, or just lying in several Paris metro entrances. Fur- the lush grass watching the clouds. Great Museums nishings and wall hangings through- In a country known for the ho- Notable museums are another out have been carefully chosen to mogeny of its people, another note- Bern asset. Topping the list is the coordinate with wallpaper and car- worthy aspect of Bern is its cultural prestigious Museum of Fine Arts pets, making each room its own work diversity. From drum-playing Afri- with the world’s largest Paul Klee of art. cans to dreadlocked hippies to finely collection plus works by Picasso, Fra Number 52, on the top floor (one dressed politicos, the people-watch- Angelico, Kandinsky, Chagall, and flight of stairs required—the lift stops a ing is never dull. others (www.kunstmuseumbern.ch). floor below) under the old building’s The Einstein House is where the sci- The Pits sloping roof line, is on two levels. En- entist lived and developed the theory try at the upper level is into a cozy And then there are the Bear Pits, of relativity (www.einstein-bern.ch). sitting area. A few steps down a an unlikely attraction, sure to spark The Swiss Rifle Museum offers a queen-sized bed lies directly beneath a debates about the humane treatment comprehensive collection of firearms skylight. A painted amoire is tucked of animals. The two stone-lined pits at since 1817. The Museum of Natural into a corner, and a small but sparkling the end of the main drag in the Alts- History contains Europe’s largest bathroom holds another skylight. tadt until recently housed three Euro- diorama of mammals and birds pre- pean Brown Bears. The last descen- sented in natural habitat, as well as Numbers 31 and 32, near mirror dent of a long line of Bern-born bears, the original “Barry,” the fabled Saint images of each other, are decked out Urs, was euthanized in March 2007— Bernard rescue dog. Exhibits at the in green and red. Both showcase qual- by the looks of this scrappy fellow in Swiss Alpine Museum include 27 ity paintings with ornate, gold frames, November 2006, it seemed it was alpine topographical models. The windows that overlook the street, and probably his time to go. Remaining Museum of Communication displays two comfy, antique armchairs. now are two playful Pyrenees Brown a huge stamp collection and traces the Other highlights of the 17-room Bears born in the Zoo of Barcelona. history of the Swiss postal system and hotel (14 standard rooms and three Despite the city’s efforts to spruce up telecommunications. Continued on page 5… Gemütlichkeit 3 July 2007 www.gemut.com 15 Summer Festivals: Good Food, Wine, Music and Art Europe turns on the charm each summer. event, though like a sky dive or a mud- Steckborer-Oktoberfest From art and antique cars to music, wine, and bath, once may be enough for this world- Location: Steckborn adventure sports, Germany, Austria, and famous beer bash. Dates: Oct. 4-6, 2007 Switzerland stage events for every pastime. Hotels: Vier Jarhrezeiten, Exquisit, This town in eastern Switzerland We’ve scanned the calendars and tapped our Kraft, Acanthus serves up its own rendition of the in- own travel experiences to find the best of the Contact: www.oktoberfest.de/en/ ternational celebration of beer. bunch. Have you attended any of these events Hotel: Frohsinn in years past? Send us your review or post it SWITZERLAND Contact: www.oktoberfest- at our new travel forum online at Montreux Jazz Festival steckborn.ch www.gemut.com. Location: Montreux Dates: July 6–21, 2007 AUSTRIA GERMANY Description: Enjoy a world-class musi- Öblarn Festival 2007 Documenta cal event in an equally spectacular Location: Öblarn Location: Kassel lakeside setting. This summer’s lineup Dates: July 14–Aug. 15, 2007 Dates: June 16 – Sept. 23, 2007 includes John Legend, Norah Jones The largest open-air theater in the Alps Description: The prestigious interna- and Wu-Tang Clan. happens only once every five years. tional art exhibition Documenta comes Hotel: Masson Hotels: Gasthof Bäck ‘n Hansl around only once every five years. This Contact: www.montreuxjazz.com Contact: www.oeticket.com/portal/ year’s event is the 12th since 1955. Locarno Film Festival en/culture/opera_operetta/ Hotel: Residenz Domus johann_strauss_walzerkonzerte/241/ Contact: www.documenta12.de Location: Locarno Dates: Aug. 1–11, 2007 Salzburg Festival Richard Wagner Festival Each summer thousands of movie Location: Salzburg Location: Bayreuth buffs head to Ticino to see debut films Dates: July 27–Aug. 31, 2007 Dates: July 25 – Aug. 28 of both new and established directors. Austria’s most popular arts festival Enthusiasts of Wagnerian opera know all Films are shown nightly on a giant includes operas, plays, and concerts. about this summer festival in Wagner’s outdoor screen in Locarno’s Piazza Hotels: Hotel Altstadt, Jedermann very own town and opera house. The Grande. Contact: www.salzburgfestival.at event, which has taken on the aura of a Hotels: Orselina, Mirafiori, Citadella pilgrimage, draws thousands of devotees Contact: www.pardo.ch Festival of 1000 Wines annually and has consistently been sold- Lucerne Festival Location: Eisenstadt out since its inauguration in 1876. You’ll Location: Lucerne Dates: Aug. 23–Sept. 2, 2007 have to apply far in advance to get tickets. Dates: Aug. 10–Sept. 16, 2007 Seldom-visited Burgenland is emerging Hotel: Lohmühle Since moving to its new home in Jean as Austria’s top wine producing region. Contact: www.bayreuther-festspiele.de Nouvelle’s architecturally stunning The Esterházy Palace Park provides a scenic backdrop for this event. Maritime Festival and acoustically near-perfect concert hall in Lucerne’s magnificent lakeside Hotels: Hotel Burgenland Location: Bremen Culture & Congress Center, this gath- Contact: www.austria.info Dates: Aug. 3-5, 2007 ering of the world’s top conductors, An international lineup of musicians 20th Red Bull Dolomitenmann musicians, and symphony orchestras performs on island stages around the Location: Lienz has increasingly garnered a worldwide city’s Vegesack harbor. Dates: Sept. 9, 2007 reputation that places it on a level with Hotels: Lichtsinn, Hockzeithaus, Zur Post This town in the Dolomites hosts numer- Salzburg. Contact: www.city-marketing- ous summer sporting events. Athletes Hotels: The Hotel, Wilden Mann, Cascada vegesack.de battle mountains, winds, and whitewater Contact: www.lucernefestival.ch in a quest to become a “Dolomitenmann.” Stuttgart Wine Festival Grand Raid Critalp Hotels: Gästehaus Masnata, Haidenhof Location: Stuttgart Location: Verbier Gasthof Hotel Dates: Aug. 29 – Sept. 9, 2007 Dates: Aug. 18, 2007 Contact: www.austria.info Now in its 31st year, the Stuttgart Wine A grueling bike race through the Swiss Festival celebrates fine wines and re- Eddy Merckx Classic Alps provides an excellent opportunity gional cuisine. Location: Salzburg for curious spectators. Camp out in Hotels: Graf Zeppelin, Relexa Waldho- Dates: Sept. 23, 2007 Verbier, Heremennces, or Grimentz to tel Schatten get a view of the action. And stop by the Description: If you’re not up for riding Contact: www.prostuttgart.de bike festival in nearby Sion the Friday with the legendary Belgian bike racer, Oktoberfest before the race. you can view the action from the side- lines in Thalgau, where the two cours- Location: Munich Hotels: Rosalp, La Rotonde es (140km and 108km) diverge. Dates: Sept. 22 – Oct. 7, 2007 Contact: www.grand-raid-cristalp.ch Hotels: Hotel Struber, Markus Sitticus, Description: Carnival tents and Oomp- Trumer Stube pah-pah bands, and many rounds of More events online at www.gemut.com Contact: www.eddy-merckx-classic.com “Ein Prosit” make this an unforgettable

Gemütlichkeit 4 July 2007 www.gemut.com

BERN Contact: Innere Enge, Engestrasse 54, comes with one narrow bed, small Continued from page 3 CH-3012, Bern, tel. +41/031/309 6111, window, built-in desk, and spotless fax 309 6112, [email protected], bathroom. On one wall hangs a small junior suites) include live jazz every www.zghotels.ch abstract print. Sunday, Bern’s best old town location Daily Rates: Singles CHF 220-255, deep among shops and restaurants, a You get the same wall art in Num- doubles CHF 250-290. Breakfast buf- breakfast buffet featuring smoked salm- ber 322 but more space and twin fet CHF 25 per person. on and champagne (not included in beds. A kidney-shaped desk occupies Rating: QUALITY 16/20, VALUE 11/20 room price), and caring, personable one corner, and a full tub in the bath- owners, Jürg and Bice Musfeld-Brugnoli. Hotel Bern room is an added feature (most rooms just have showers). Contact: Hotel Belle Epoque, Gere- With a distinct retro décor, this chtigkeitsgasse 18, CH-3011 Bern, tel. upscale property, directed by Peter Each floor has a small glass-en- +41/031/311 4336, fax 311 3936, Schiltknecht, has a friendly staff, spa- closed room with a different commu- [email protected], www.belle- cious guestrooms, and two restau- nity purpose. One harbors a game epoque.ch. rants. The entire hotel, including its 95 room with a tiny billiards table and a foosball table; another has computers Daily Rates: Singles CHF 195-245, rooms, were renovated five years ago with free Internet access (there is also doubles CHF 280-340, not including in a minimalist, modern style. A free wireless throughout the hotel), breakfast raised lobby seating area sports or- ange, purple, and lime-green bucket and yet another has a self-service Rating: QUALITY 16/20, VALUE 12/20 seats around small metal tables. Fresh tearoom. Innere Enge apples are offered on each floor. The The second floor restaurant often An easy favorite when last ’S fifth floor is nonsmoking. Deluxe hosts large lunch groups from Parlia- reviewed in 1998, this four-star, EDITOR rooms occupy the quiet backside of ment. The space is bright and open, HOICE jazz-themed hotel still shines. C the building, while standard rooms with hardwood floors and high ceilings. The public rooms, elegant and warm, overlook the busy street below. On the top floor is a small fitness include a lounge with a fireplace sur- Number 301’s furnishings include room and sauna, but the rooftop deck rounded by red leather armchairs. two full-sized beds, a futon that co- is the building’s best asset. From it The restaurant beyond features large verts to a bed, a quirky blue chair you can see all the city’s major land- picture windows looking over the city shaped somewhat like an orange- marks and beyond, including, on and, on clear days, the Alps. Adding peel, a round glass coffee table, and a clear days, Alpine peaks. to the hotel’s special appeal are a rich, multicolored checkered carpet. A ornately carved wood bar and jazz small, private balcony overlooks the Key Websites for the Traveler memorabilia everywhere. The base- Altstadt’s shingled roofs. • www.gemut.com Gateway site for travelers to ment jazz club features professional Germanic Europe, including car rental, rail passes, lighting and sound, and accom- Number 321, an average-sized sin- hotel bookings, traveler feedback, travel tips, and plished musicians. gle, has a double bed with wood head- past issues (free access to back issues for subscrib- board, tile floor and a lime-green, vel- ers; see log-on info on page 2). About half the 26 guestrooms bear vet-covered stool beside a metallic • www.viamichelin.com The Michelin database of the names and memorabilia of jazz desk. There is no view; windows open hotels and restaurants, plus great interactive trip planning tools. greats. Number 26, the Eddie Condon to the center of the building. room, displays signed records and • www.travelessentials.com Guidebooks, maps, photos, and is equipped with twin Breakfast is from an ample buffet travel accessories, luggage, all at 10 percent off for subscribers. Use discount code gemut2006. beds, two wicker chairs, and a and, as of May 2007, is included in the room rate, though that may change • www.webflyer.com Informative frequent-flyer flatscreen TV. forums make this a must for air travelers. within the next year. Number 29, on a corner, lacks a • bahn.hafas.de/bin/query.exe/en German rail Contact: Hotel Bern, website, with train schedules throughout Europe, jazz theme, but engenders a spacious as well as Germany. and cohesive feel. There is an antique 9, CH-3011 Bern, tel. +41(0)31 329 2222, fax +41/031 329 2299, • www.sbb.ch/index_e.htm Swiss and European desk and TV cabinet, love seat, wicker rail schedules. chair, and a dark wood coffee table. [email protected], • www.ski-europe.com Top Web resource for Bright flowery curtains frame the www.hotelbern.ch. skiers with much data on Alpine resorts. windows, and the luxurious bath- Daily Rates: Singles CHF 170-230, • www.myswitzerland.com Website of Switzer- land’s national tourist authority. room has a separate tub and shower, doubles CHF 195-340. • www.germany-tourism.de Germany’s national Rating: QUALITY 11/20, VALUE 10/20 and two washbasins. tourist authority. Innere Enge’s lone drawback is its Hotel Kreuz • www.austria.info/us Austria’s national tourist authority. location; a short bus ride, but long Though efficient and a good val- walk, from the city center. For travel- • www.historicgermany.com Website for an ue, this clean but spare business hotel alliance of historic German cities. ers with cars, parking is free, and the lacks personality. • www.thetravelinsider.info Info on electronic de- atmosphere is decidedly quieter than Number 310, a typical single, vices used by travelers — cell phones, computers, etc. at hotels in the busy Altstadt. Gemütlichkeit 5 July 2007 www.gemut.com

Contact: Hotel Kreuz, Zeughausgasse Among the dessert offerings are from the French theme and also offers 41, CH-3000 Bern 7, tel. +41/031 329 several flavors of gelato and, of sweets from Italy and Spain. A choco- 9595, fax +41(0)31 329 9596, course, a top-notch version of the late mousse, served in a glass resem- [email protected], Italian staple, Tiramisu. bling a votive candleholder, was ex- www.hotelkreuz-bern.ch. On a recent visit for lunch we tremely rich, thick, and satisfying. Daily Rates: Singles CHF 120-145, ignored the extensive wine list and The presentation here is simple doubles CHF 170-210. drank a serviceable house rosé. and straightforward, with little em- Rating: QUALITY 8/20, VALUE 9/20 White, custom-made “Lorenzini” bellishment, but—much more impor- Bern Restaurants china adds to an overall classy, ele- tant— the food tastes great. As one of Switzerland’s most cul- gant vibe. Postprandial, gift-of-the- Prices may be on the expensive turally rich and diverse cities, Bern house chocolates have customized side, with entrees from CHF 35 to 58, has many fine dining options to wrappers with the restaurant’s name. but the quiet atmosphere, excellent choose from. The friendly staff gladly explains service, and first-rate food make Zim- mermania a top pick. Ristorante Lorenzini the menu and offers suggestions. Prices are moderate to expensive, Contact: Restaurant Zimmermania, This compound, for lack of a bet- with entrees in the CHF 15-50 range. Brunngasse 19, CH-3011 Bern, tel. ter word (the place is huge), provides +41/031/311 1542, fax 312 2822 several sleek, elegant spaces in which Contact: Lorenzini, Theaterplatz 5, Rating: QUALITY 15/20, VALUE 10/20 to enjoy fine Italian cuisine or just a CH-3011, tel. +41/031/311 7850 beverage or two. Rating: QUALITY 16/20, VALUE 14/20 Schmiedstube At street level, are two separate Zimmermania Offering traditional Swiss fare at bar rooms, each with a slightly differ- On a quiet side street in the Alts- reasonable prices, Schmiedstube fills ent ambience. In one, an oval bar tadt, this French-style bistro isn’t as up patrons with bratwurst, Rösti, dominates the center of the room. In good as the best of its kind in Paris, braised beef, and lamb stew —among the next space, the bar is placed but it’s close. White lace curtains and other hefty dishes. Inside, the décor is against the wall and black leather wood-paneled walls hung with old sleek and modern with large win- couches create a relaxed, comfortable drawings, photos, and an antique dows, a small marble bar, marble ambience. An outdoor terrace under clock, create a cozy atmosphere in the tabletops, red leather chairs, and a the arcade shelters several round met- two small dining rooms. Outside, red visually interesting ceiling of slanting al tables, and a few wooden-slatted shutters and window flower boxes metal grates. tables sit beneath umbrellas on the add to the decidedly quaint feel. The Outside, Schmiedstube shares a cobblestone street. four outdoor tables set close against large cobblestone square with several The first-floor (our second) Gran the building leave just enough space other restaurants. Blue and white Ristorante has a clubby atmosphere, for passing motorists—if you sit here stripes on the tablecloths and umbrel- with white linens, black banquettes be careful you don’t plunge a leg of las give the outdoor seating area and bistro chairs, tall ceilings and your chair into one of the holes in the somewhat of a seaside feel. windows, and parquet floors. Sus- cobblestone. A refreshing Märít Salat consisted pended halogen lights illuminate The menu offers a selection of clas- of spring greens, radish, cucumber, walls lined with contemporary prints, sic brasserie-style dishes. To start, the and tomato wedges in a zesty vinai- drawings, and old photos. friendly staff brought sliced baguette grette dressing. Alpenmagrone, a Swiss rendition of macaroni and cheese, The menu is traditional northern accompanied by a rich, olive tapenade came in a modest serving size with Italian, featuring a full page of pasta spread. The very freshest ingredients applesauce on the side. The creamy (housemade) and risotto dishes, plus highlighted a Salad du Marché of let- cheese sauce with parsley flakes was Tuscan antipasti, fresh salads and the tuces, lentils, and sliced radishes in the a little runny, but delicious. A topping usual veal and other meat dishes. traditional, creamy French dressing. Escalope Viennoise, a delicious version of crisp, battered and fried onions, A fresh seafood salad of cool, crisp of Wiener Schnitzel, veal pounded very nicely complemented the creamy lettuce, calamari, shrimp, olives, and thin, breaded and fried, was served noodles. peppers in a subtle oil and vinegar with a mound of extremely thin, crisp The staff is prompt, if a little rigid, dressing with a lemon wedge was a French fries. and prices are reasonable with entrees fine sharable appetizer. Another winner was grilled around CHF 15 to 25. A speciality of the house, cappel- shrimp with Mediterranean noodles Contact: Schmiedstube, Schmieden- letti, was essentially a ravioli/tortelli- tossed with sun-dried tomatoes, black platz 5, CH-3000 Bern 7, tel. +41/031 ni-style cheese-stuffed pasta, served olives, onions, capers, and cherry /311 3461, fax +41/031/311 5244, in a rich coating of sage-infused but- tomatoes in a light tomato sauce. [email protected], ter and cream or, if you choose, a www.schmiedstube.com. The dessert menu veers away much lighter fresh tomato sauce. Rating: QUALITY 9/20, VALUE 10/20

Gemütlichkeit 6 July 2007 www.gemut.com € BLACK FOREST EATS 42-52, six- course tasting menu bi flying fish eggs, and a dollop of €106 per person, seven-course menu Continued from page 1 horseradish mousse mixed with an- €128 per person other wonderfully fresh, crunchy fish blandly classic Continental fine- Contact: Restaurant Bareiss in the roe. The intrigue continued with four dining staple, cod in creamy mus- Hotel Bareiss, Gärtenbühlweg 14 elaborate preparations of tuna and tard champagne sauce, garnished D-72270 Baiersbronn-Mitteltal, tel. five preparations of crab, including an with clams and diced zucchini. Mr. +49/074/42 47 0, fax +49/074/42 47 eye-catching roll of striped gelatin of Fendt stopped by to pour a 2002 Zie 320, [email protected], seafood consomm and crab bisque Reisen, a light-bodied red with a lot www.bareiss.com stuffed with creamy crabmeat. De- of tobacco and leather and a bit too spite the fact that all of the ingredients Rating: QUALITY 16/20, VALUE 12/20 much wood. This time, the wine had been brought from far away, I took backstage to the main course, Restaurant Schwarzwaldstube could tell I was in a German, as op- two beautifully cooked red venison Hotel Traube Tonbach posed to French, restaurant. The fla- medallions with tiny chanterelles Three stars for Michelin mean vors were lively, the combinations and a mini pastry stuffed with diced “worth a special journey,” which bold, the execution careful. organ meat. This was exactly the would indicate it’s worth getting on Then the seduction seemed to kind of only-in-the-Black-Forest dish a plane from London to Stuttgart, lose steam. The foamy asparagus we were hoping to find, and we ap- then driving over an hour through velouté on foie gras cream with sum- preciated the effort to use special the Black Forest to spend enormous mer truffle was tasty but seemed local products. sums for one four-and-a-half hour heavy and fattening for summer. The The cheese cart featured a good- lunch. Was it worth it? That de- rosette of sliced scallops spiked with quality selection of mainly French pends. Yes, this is definitely the best chili and floating in a sea of coconut cheeses served with lovely jams and restaurant for miles and one of the milk, macadamia and pineapple gingered pears. Then we were nearly best in Germany. Yes, the service is brought to mind tropical beaches killed with an onslaught of gorgeous wall to wall with German tourists. desserts: a frozen snowball of ba- The octopus risotto was soggy, with nana ice covered in coconut with Then they were evil enough no discernible octopus flavor, while pineapple sauce, a strawberry me- to bring around a jeweled the combination with grilled red ringue tart with chopped pistachio, a mullet, artichokes, red wine sauce, vanilla custard cream with more cart of mignardises. and onion marmalade seemed busy strawberries, Rote Grütze (red berry and contrived. perfect, the surroundings sumptu- pudding), and a fabulous minimalist The delicious Bresse pigeon breast ous, and the wine cellar well Black Forest Napoleon made of perched on a paté of its own organ stocked. But what I really want at home-canned cherries on a thin meats and a thin crouton had an ex- this level is to be thrilled. I want the cookie with whipped cream, kirsch, tremely peppery pine honey crust. It taste bud equivalent of shivering and a curl of chocolate. Then they was served with some sliced root goose bumps. The meal was indeed were evil enough to bring around a vegetables and three enormous, excellent. But instead of that blissful jeweled cart of mignardises, the love- mealy gnocchi instead of the custom- feeling of wanting it never to end, I ly cookies, candies, and cakes that ary Spätzle. The chef, I was informed, found I kept looking at my watch. provide one last temptation with believes only professional old women Dining is no different from dating— coffee. Mr. Fendt sends us one last can make Spätzle properly, and he is and watches aren’t a good sign. And treat, his own 2003 dessert wine not an old woman. You won’t find I can’t put my finger on any real from his Mosel vineyard. He makes Spätzle at the Schwarzwaldstube, and reason, except that there just wasn’t one wine a year, and given the heat I think that’s a shame. I think gnocchi any chemistry between us. wave in 2003, he had decided to turn are also best left to specialists. it into a crisp, firm, yet sweet de- The scene was set for romance. Instead of cheese, we had an ex- light. What I couldn’t figure out is Panoramic windows provided a back- cellent hot Parmesan mousse with how people around here eat like this drop of sunshine and a sweeping sliced summer truffle and crunchy and still fit into those lovely slim- view of the hills. Majestic carved ceil- fleur de sel (sea salt). I correctly sus- waisted dirndl dresses. When I ings, chandeliers and manorial chairs pected the chef of using a gas siphon, asked our friendly waitress why were offset by whimsical animal a famous technique by Spanish avant- only the female staff wear traditional sculptures made of Christofl cutlery gardist, Ferran Adria, to create the uniforms, she glanced around care- on every table. The meal started with foamy hot mousse. fully before answering, “Actually, I some of the most interesting nibbles don’t think you’d want to see the we’d had in a long time. Three spoons The pace of the restaurant had manager in lederhosen!” held salmon eggs with smoky liquid been perfect thus far, but it started to Menu Prices: Appetizers €36-56, eel fat, a clear seafood gelatin with flag around the desserts. Finally, a soups €22, fish and meat courses Japanese baby shiso leaves and wasa- fantastic Black Forest “torte” arrived, Gemütlichkeit 7 July 2007 www.gemut.com BLACK FOREST EATS next course, so we can’t recommend We Recommend Continued from page 7 the restaurant, although it is appar- ently quite popular with the locals. This listing of good value, mid-priced hotels in popular three perfect, preserved black cherries destination cities is intended for fast reference. Additional with gilded stems on the thinnest of We also stayed two nights at the hotels and links to hotel websites is in the Hotel Review sections at www.gemut.com. Hotels are arranged in price spiced gingerbread crusts, sprinkled Hotel Petrisberg in Trier, where we order, higher to lower. with crushed pistachio and hazelnut. had a corner suite for $180. The Pan- Berlin tenberg brother who tends the hotel Hotel Art Nouveau, Leibnizstr. 59, tel. +49/030/327 7440, fax 327 It was accompanied by a mysterious 744 40, [email protected], www.hotelartnouveau.de frozen granite that might have been directed us to a new downtown res- Hotel Domus, Uhlandstrasse 49, Germany D-10719, tel. +49/030/ an elderberry ice. Next up was a mys- taurant that was a winner. CUMVI- 882041, fax 882 0410, [email protected] Bern terious modern dessert consisting of a NO is owned by Friedrich-Wilhelm- Hotel Bristol, Schauplatzgasse 10, CH-3011, tel. +41/31/311 0101, frosty glass of flower-infused liquid, Gymnasium, which if memory fax 311 9479, email [email protected] which I presume was marigold, ac- serves is a Jesuit school/winery that Hotel Kreuz, Zeughausgasse 41, CH-3000, tel. +41/031/329 9595, fax 329 95 96, [email protected] companied by a strong saffron sorbet. has been bequeathed a lot of vine- Lucerne After the mignardises with coffee came yards over the years. Highly recom- Hotel Wilden Mann, Bahnhofstrasse 30, CH-6000 Luzern, tel. a fun pink popsicle of champagne +41/041/2101666, fax 2101629, [email protected] mended for good food at moderate Hotel Cascada, 18, CH-6003 Lucerne, tel: +41/041/ encased in white chocolate. prices and free parking. 226 80 88, fax 226 80 00, [email protected] Munich I suppose I was a bit disappointed BILL BOHNHOFF Hotel Exquisit, Pettenkoferstr. 3, tel. +49/089/ 551 99 0, fax 551 99 by certain attempts at fusion cooking VIA E-MAIL 499, [email protected]. that were neither innovative nor well Hotel Acanthus, An Der Hauptfeuerwache 14, D- 80331 Vacation Rentals conceived. There was a distinct rejec- München, tel. +49/089 / 23 18 80, fax: 2 60 73 64, e-mail: Please don’t discourage readers [email protected] tion of local ingredients and regional Hotel Kraft, Schillerstr. 49, tel. +49/089/594823-24, fax 550 3856, traditions, which made me think that from searching out their own Ferien- [email protected] this was the cooking of a native son wohnung in Germany. Anyone with Rothenburg ob der Tauber Reichs-Küchenmeister, Kirchplatz 8, Rothenburg o.d. Tauber, who wishes he were somewhere a computer and a small knowledge Germany D-91541, tel. +49/09861/97 00, fax 97 04 09, more exotic. Maybe the of German will have a marvelous [email protected] time looking at dozens of properties Hotel Hornburg, Hornburgweg 28, D-91541, tel. +049/09861/ Schwarzwaldstube provides a cosmo- 8480, fax 5570, [email protected], politan window into international complete with color pictures, floor www.hotelhornburg.de culinary trends in the Black Forest plans and often a history of the fami- Salzburg & Environs Schloss Haunsperg , A-5411 Oberalm bei Hallein, Hammerstrasse backwater, but it seems hardly worth ly that owns it. When they contact 32, tel. +43/06245/80662, fax 85680, [email protected] it to me to journey all this way to eat the owner directly they will find that Hotel Struber, Nonntaler Hauptstrasse 35, Austria A-5020 tel. essentially a Teutonic Thai seafood they get first class treatment because +43/0662/843 728, fax 843 728 8, [email protected] Hotel Jedermann, Rupertgasse 25, Austria A-5020, tel. +43/0662/ curry or a French pigeon. Germans have an inborn sense of 873241-0, fax 873241-9, [email protected] Menu Prices: Appetizers: €37-55, thrift that makes them prefer not Vienna Hotel Römischer Kaiser, Annagasse 16, A-1010, tel +43/01/512 soups €18-20, main courses €42-52, sharing with a middleman. 77 51 0, fax 512 77 51 13, [email protected]. € € cheese 16-20, desserts 20, degusta- I prefer the Garmisch area be- Altstadt Vienna, Kirchengasse 41, tel. +43/01/526 3399-0, fax 523 € 4901, [email protected], web: www.altstadt.at tion menu 140 per person cause it offers such splendid day Pension Aviano, Marco-D’Aviano-Gasse 1, tel. +43/01/512 8330, Contact: Restaurant Schwarzwald- trips in every direction. A friendly fax 512 8330 6, [email protected] stube-Hotel Traube Tonbach, D-72270 Zürich landlord on the premises will always Hotel Florhof, Florhofgasse 4, Switzerland CH-8001, tel. 41/01/ Baiersbronn im Schwarzwald, tel. be willing to offer tips on where to 261 4470, fax 261 4611, [email protected] +49/0744/2 492 0, fax +49/0744/2 4 go, what to see, and where to eat Hotel Arlette, Stampfenbachstrasse 26, Switzerland CH-8001, tel. 92 692, [email protected], +41/01/25 20 032, fax 25 20 932, [email protected] and shop, and probably deliver Frankfurt Airport www.traube-tonbach.de breakfast rolls and wine if you are Steigenberger Esprix Hotel Frankfurt Airport, CargoCity Süd, D- Rating: QUALITY 17/20, VALUE 10/20 60549 , tel. +49/069/69 70 99, fax 69 70 94 44, frankfurt@esprix- lucky. A much more gemütlich expe- hotels.de rience than dealing with an agent Hotel Birkenhof, von-Eiff-Str 37, Hanau-Steinheim, D-63456, tel. +49/06181/648 80, fax 64 88 39, [email protected] (25- Readers’ Forum who hands you the key and says minute drive from airport) goodbye. The Garmisch site is excel- Hotel Dreieich, Frankfurter Str. 49, Langen , D-63225, tel. +49/ Münster and Trier 06103/91 50, fax 52 030. [email protected] lently organized, as are many areas Munich Airport The Hof Zur Linde, just outside of the Black Forest. Münster is set in the woods, on a Daniel’s Hotel, Haupstrasse 11, Halbergmoos-Goldach, D-85399, MARY ELLEN HUNTER tel. +49/0811/55120, fax 551213, [email protected], stream. We had a roomy junior suite www.hotel-daniels.de VIA E-MAIL Hotel Hoyacker Hof, Freisinger Landstrasse 9a, D-85748 Garch- with a large covered balcony over- ing b. München, tel. +49/089/326 9900, fax 320 7243, looking the water for about $180 and Do You Have a Question or [email protected] we highly recommend it. However, Zürich Airport Want to Share a Travel Tip? Mövenpick Zürich Airport, Walter-Mittelholzerstrasse 8, CH- the dining room was excessively Try our new online reader 8152 Glattbrugg, tel. +41/01/808 88 88, fax 808 88 77, warm and we waited one hour be- [email protected] forum at www.gemut.com. Hotel Fly Away, 19, Zürich-Kloten, CH-8302, tel. tween a gratuitous appetizer and the +41/01/804 4455, fax 804 44 50, [email protected]

Gemütlichkeit 8 July 2007