Opera Estragon

For Olivier Dupon, author of The New Pâtissiers, this entremet’s seven layers, including two layers of dacquoise and ganache, make for a highly-sophisticated . “The central crunchy croquant layer contrasts well with the other softer layers, which also individually play their part,” Olivier says. The sponge texture of the dacquoise embraces the smooth pink crémeux and tarragon infused ganache, while the incorporated blackcurrants adds a pop of acidity.” Opera Estragon is a favoured recipe of Arnaud Delmontel, a Paris-based pastry chef well-known for his colourful entremets and . The recipe is a re-invention of the traditional French Opera , however, berries, tarragon and pink colouring replace coffee and chocolate. Although the recipe requires patience and care, Olivier says the opera estragon is certainly achievable for bakers. “The main challenge resides in assembling the cake and getting the harmony of the flavours right,” Olivier says. Editor’s note: Some instructions and measurement guides from The New Pâtissiers have been simplified.

Serves

Makes 1

Preparation Time

4 hours (excluding 24 hours infusing time)

WHAT YOU NEED

For the Dacquoise Egg whites: 250g Granulated white sugar: 63g Red food colouring (to achieve desired colour) Icing (confectioner’s) sugar: 63g Plain (all-purpose) flour: 50g Almond meal: 188g

For the almond ‘croquant’ Unsalted butter: 45g Icing (confectioner’s) sugar: 55g Plain (all-purpose) flour: 15g Almond flakes: 60g

For the red berry crémeux Red berry mix purée: 100g Whole egg: 38g Egg yolks: 60g Granulated white sugar: 50g Gelatine (gold): 5g or 2.5 sheets (softened in ice-cold water, with excess water squeezed out) Unsalted butter: 38g

For the tarragon ganache Whipping cream (35 per cent fat): 375g Fresh tarragon: 12g White chocolate couverture (such as Ivoire 35 per cent by Valrhona): 450g

For the opera glazing Ivory pâte à glacer: 50g (white glazing compound, such as Ivory [Ivoire] compound coating by Cacao Barry, or Original White by Carma. If this cannot be obtained, substitute 50g premium white cooking compound and follow the same method). White chocolate couverture: 100g Vegetable oil: 12.5g Red food colouring (to achieve desired colour) Specialty Equipment 20x40cm baking tray digital candy thermometer

WHAT TO DO

Dacquoise 1. Pre-heat the oven to 200°C; 2. Beat the egg whites until soft peaks form, then slowly add the granulated sugar; 3. Continue beating until the sugar has completely dissolved and the mixture is smooth and shiny; 4. Add enough food colouring to make the desired shade of pink; 5. Fold the icing sugar, flour and almond meal into the mixture; 6. Spread out onto the silicone baking paper-lined tray of at least 20 x 40cm, as you will need to cut two 20 x 20cm squares of dacquoise to make the finished cake; and 7. Bake for 10-15 minutes, or until slightly crisp on top.

Almond ‘croquant’ 1. Pre-heat the oven to 180°C; 2. Mix the soft butter with the sugar in the bowl of a stand mixer; 3. Add the flour and combine; 4. Spread out to form a square of at least 20 x 20cm on a silicone baking paper sheet; 5. Sprinkle the almond flakes evenly on top; 6. Bake for 15-17 minutes; and 7. Leave to cool, then cut out the 20 x 20cm square.

Red berry crémeux 1. Bring the red berry mix purée to the boil; 2. Separately blend the whole egg and egg yolks with the sugar; 3. Pour in some of the purée and combine; 4. Pour this mixture back into the remainder of the purée and heat to 87°C, mixing well; 5. Remove from the heat, add in the gelatine and butter, and stir until well combined; and 6. Leave to cool in a container sealed with plastic wrap for 2-4 hours, or until thick.

Tarragon ganache 1. Heat together the cream and the tarragon; 2. Remove from the heat and allow to infuse for 24 hours; After the infusion period, remove the tarragon and bring to the boil; 4. Pour over the chopped chocolate, stir until combined and smooth, then leave to cool.

Opera glazing 1. Melt the pâte and the chocolate together in a bain-marie; and 2. Add in the oil and enough food colouring to make the desired shade of pink, then mix.

Assembling Component blackcurrants (140g/1 cup) Thinly spread some of the tarragon ganache to form a layer of approximately 0.5cm in the bottomed frame or cake tin. Add the first layer of dacquoise. Add the red berry crémeux, which you will need to whisk to make smooth. Carefully add the almond ‘croquant’. Spread out the remainder of the ganache and incorporate the blackcurrants. Finish with the second layer of dacquoise. Freeze, unmould, turn over and top with the opera glazing. Slice before the cake is fully defrosted. You could also garnish each slice with edible silver leaf. SAVE PRINT The New Pâtissiers by Olivier Dupon published by Thames & Hudson. RRP $70.