’s

Malpelo IslandText and photos by Larry Cohen and Olga Torrey

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LARRY COHEN Malpelo Island (above). PREVIOUS PAGE: Divers with whale shark at the Aquarium dive site

The main reason for div- The reason for all of this large life depending on current and wind. ing Malpelo Island is the is an abundance of food being Leaving Panama in the late brought in by strong ocean cur- afternoon on a Monday, one will sharks. The area is known rents. So diving conditions are not see land until sometime on LARRY COHEN for large schools of ham- not easy. Currents could be very Wednesday. It is not unusual for merheads, silky sharks, strong and visibility clouded by all sea conditions and weather to Galapagos and whitetip the nutrients in the water. But this be rough. So it is nice to be on is the price to pay for hanging a comfortable seaworthy ves- sharks. In the winter there out with the big boys. sel. During the journey, there is is a population of sand Two hundred and thirty miles time to relax, make new friends tigers, and in late summer from Panama and 270 miles from and dream about the wonders and fall, whale sharks call the coast of Columbia is the that will soon be seen below the large rock rising from the Pacific surface. There is plenty of time to these waters their home. Ocean that is Malpelo Island. setup scuba gear and cameras. Other large pelagics can The rock itself is home to a small Before long the rock appears also be viewed. Tuna, Columbian military base, ranger in the distance. As time goes by, station and colony of sea birds. it slowly starts getting larger and jacks and eagle rays are A number of boats from Pan- larger. Before your eyes appears not uncommon, with the ama and Columbia run trips to a magical enchanted land. occasional manta ray Malpelo. Leaving from Panama When Robert Lewis Stevenson LARRY COHEN LARRY COHEN making an appearance. the journey takes 30 hours, wrote Treasure Island, he must Trumpetfish on the rocks at Bajo del Monstruo (above); Spanish grunts Leather bass in swim-through at La Gringa with eagle ray in background (top right)

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OLGA TORREY

LARRY COHEN

School of hammerheads in the distance (above); Scorpionfish at the Aquarium (right)

have been thinking of Malpelo. This looks in to have the parasites, dead skin like the perfect place for pirates to hide and loose scales removed from their treasure. mouths and bodies. The butterflyfish All the diving on Malpelo is done and other cleaners use these parasites around the rock and nearby pinnacles. If as food and don’t get eaten. Diving you removed all the large marine life, this on a cleaning station offers the oppor- would still be a world-class dive site. Sea tunity to observe these animals. fans and other soft coral decorate the Once arriving, divers do a check out rock. There are more moray eels here, dive at El Altar de Virginia. This site is than we have ever seen. Many are free in a protected area and there is not LARRY COHEN swimming even in the daylight hours. much current. Divers do a backward Leatherback grouper and Mexican roll from the small skiff. able staterooms plus crew quarters. hogfish are everywhere. These fish along The diving station is on the lower deck with butterflyfish also perform a useful Diving while the top deck is for dining and service for the big pelagics. The marine Coiba Dive Expeditions goes to Malpelo socializing. Half of the top deck is cov- life on all the rock reefs are cleaning sta- more often than other operations. Their ered while the other half has lounge tions. liveaboard vessel is the 115-foot (35m) chairs for enjoying the sun. There is an LARRY COHEN Sharks and other large animals come Yemaya’ II. The ship has eight comfort- indoor salon with a TV, video and book Manta ray spotted at La Puerta del Cielo; Large numbers of moray eels on the rocks (top left)

43 X-RAY MAG : 65 : 2015 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO Galapagos shark at Bajon dive site (left); Butterflyfish on clean- ing station at Los Tres Malpelo travel Mosqueteros (right)

Conditions In August 2014, El Nino was affect- ing the area. With water temperatures in August being between 76ºF and 87ºF (24-31ºC), it was comfortable to dive in a 3-5mm wetsuit. These warm tem- peratures push the hammerheads and other sharks away from the wall. They seek out cooler waters away from Malpelo. At times we hit a thermocline where the cold water and warm water mixed,

OLGA TORREY creating a hazy look of gauze in the water. library. Two skiffs are towed goes right, the group stays together and the Once on the bot- behind the ship. All diving takes dive guide shoots the surface marker buoy tom, everyone lined place from the skiffs. Nitrox 32 at the end of the dive. If someone gets sep- up looking into the is produced from a membrane arated, they have their own reel and SMB. blue—hoping to get system and whips are used to The boat supplies Nautilus Lifelines to all fill tanks without removing them the divers. This device invented by Nautilus Los Tres Mosqueteros from the skiffs. Explorer owner, Mike Lever, is prefect for this El Acuario All diving is done in groups. The diving environment. It is a combination radio Bajo del Cholo D’Artagnan dive guide counts, “Uno, dos, and GPS. The lifeline has three buttons. The Bajo del Ancla Bajo del tres!” and everyone rolls in at the green button allows a diver to chat with Monstruo same time. Doing this comfort- the boat and skiff. The GPS numbers are dis- La Pared del Náufrago OLGA TORREY ably with a camera housing and played. If you are lost, you can tell the skiff La Cara del Fantasma strobes takes some practice. driver where you are located. a glimpse of a school of hammerheads After seeing the first cleaning The orange button allows a diver to com- El Mirador El Arrecife or other pelagic animals. We felt like we station and a large school of municate on Channel 16. This channel is were at a theatre waiting for the show to hammerheads in the distance, reserved for emergencies and is monitored La Nevera begin. El Arco del Tropic it is time to surface. Everyone is by all vessels. This way divers can tell any If everyone stays close together the bub- La Puerta del Cielo asked to deploy a surface marker nearby ship their location. Vagamares bles will scare away the animals. By spread- buoy (SMB) for practice. The red button will keep transmitting a div- El Sahara La Torta ing out and being observant, divers might From now on, many dives er’s location to all stations, but divers are not get to see a shark or eagle ray. Because Los Gemelos will be in a current, so a nega- able to talk when using this function. Having Los Tres Bajo de of the current, it is important to not get too Reyes tive entry is necessary. With BCs a Nautilus Lifeline on all dives will give one a Junior far away from the dive guide. Also keep an empty everyone rolls in at the warm and fuzzy feeling, but this device is a La Gringa eye out behind you. While everyone is look- same time and frantically swims requirement when diving remote locations ing for the actors to appear on the stage, to the rock before the current in these conditions. Escuba sometimes one might sneak back to per- La Ferreteria OLGA TORREY wipes them away. If everything WIKIMEDIA COMMONS / SHADOWXFOX form in the balcony. Diver inflates a surface marker buoy Map of Malpelo Island

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OLGA TORREY Swim-through at La Gringa (left); Gunieafowl puffer in golden phase (above); Divers with whale shark at the Aquarium dive site (right)

kinds are inside this rocky passageway. On the other side of the swim-through, one might spot a large school of hammer- heads. One of the other dive sites of note was the Aquarium. Cur-

OLGA TORREY

rent varied from strong whom, but the whale sharks did to insane, but at least not have cameras. the dive staff deployed a After the diving days were fin-

LARRY COHEN buoy decent line for refer- ished, it was time for the long ence. ride back to the mainland. There If no sharks appear, the group the face is known as La At the time of our visit, was now time to relax, socialize swims, or drifts in the current, to a Cara de Fantasma, or the a male and pregnant with new friends, pack gear and different area. While looking for ghost face. The skiff ride female whale shark could dream about the incredible won- the large animals, don’t get tun- could be as interesting as be seen on this site. To ders we just experienced under nel vision and forget about the the dive. It is possible to see have a 30-foot (9m) fish the surface. rocks. Spanish grunts, giant hawk- bait balls and humpback swim overhead and block fish, coral hawkfish, puffers and whales breaching close to out the sun, then swim Topside attractions other creatures put on a colorful the tiny boat. down and look you in the When planning a trip to Malpelo, show. La Gringa is a site named eye was a life-changing one should also plan to explore because a dive instructor experience. These gentle Panama. Both the city and the Dive sites from the United States had plankton eaters were as remote areas have much to offer. There are many dive sites around a butt the size and shape curious about the divers the island. There is an area in the of the rock. But the great as the divers were curious Panama City. Panama City is an rock that looks like a face staring feature of this site is a long about them. It was hard important town since the Panama down at you. The dive site below swim-through. Fish of all LARRY COHEN to tell who was watching Canal allows ships quick access Coral hawkfish can be seen at La Cara de Fantasma dive site

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LARRY COHEN

Traditional fishing boats in front of modern Panama City (above); Freighter enters (right) OLGA TORREY

between the Pacific and Atlantic 1979 to 1999, the canal was trast. The new city has modern ground. churches and government build- Oceans. Before the canal was under joint American–Panama- skyscrapers with a variety of Old Town Panama City has the ings. built, ships had to go around nian management. In 1999 the quirky architecture. One build- look and feel of many cities in Visual arts play an important South America to make the trip. canal was handed over to the ing has a twist while another Spain, combined with a flavor of roll in the life of the Panamanian At the ports, trains would trans- Panama Canal Authority, a Pan- is designed to look like a ship, New Orleans in the United States. people. Parades, public events port cargo across the narrow amanian government agency. influenced by the Burj Khalifa sky- Colorful buildings with shops, res- and parties always include a host country to the other side. Then But the U.S. dollar is still the local scraper in Dubai. Many of these taurants and bars line the narrow of decorated floats. On our visit, the containers were distributed currency, and 110v with North buildings are residential. This mod- streets. There are many squares a number of artists could be seen onto ships going to different loca- American outlets are still used for ern skyline can be seen from the and public areas for people to working on these floats into the tions. The first ship entered the power. water with a fleet of traditional gather and enjoy the hot tropical evening through open doorways. canal on 15 August 1914. Panama City is a study of con- fishing boats sitting in the fore- weather. Around the squares are School buses purchased second The influence of the Unit- ed States is everywhere. This is because the United States had complete con- trol of the Panama Canal from 1914 to 1979. From

LARRY COHEN

Old Town has the look and feel of many cities in Spain combined with a bit of New Orleans flavor

LARRY COHEN

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Kayaking where the Chagres River meets the Panama Canal forming Gatun Lake (above); Mono Titi monkeys OLGA TORREY OLGA TORREY are the smallest found in Panama (right inset) THIS PAGE: Wildlife found in the rainforest at Soberania National Park, such as the snail kite (top center) and a family of mantled howler monkeys (top right) hand from needs millions of gallons of water to the United feed its lock system. For this reason Soberania National Park. Hiking in among the largest monkeys in Panama. States were the rainforest has been preserved to Soberania National Park is another way We could see them hanging, climb- used as provide water. The Smithsonian Insti- to observe life in the rainforest. As we ing and leaping on the tree branches. public trans- tute maintains their tropical research walked on the main trail, we heard the Sometimes they walked upside down portation. facility in Gamboa. The institute’s mis- sounds of many different birds. and wrapped their tails around the tree. Artists used sion is to understand the past, present Part of life in the rainforest is hiding, Their prehensile tails are strong enough to the buses as and future of tropical biodiversity and trying not to become a meal. So seeing support their entire body weight. Vocal canvases for its relevance to humankind. these birds needs patience. communication was an important part of their work. This is where the scenic Chagres The way the light filtered through the the howlers’ social behavior. When they Known as River meets the Panama Canal form- trees was mag- barked, we felt like King Kong was com- diablos rojos ing Gatun Lake. A boat tour with nificent. As our ing down from the trees to kidnap us— OLGA TORREY (red devils) kayaking was an excellent way to LARRY COHEN eyes adjusted, just like what happened to Faye Ray. they are explore this area. It was interesting to we began to see now being replaced with modern buses. see the contrast of dredging and other Titi monkey. This is the small- movement in the Guna region. One third of the Carib- But some of these buses are still on the work being done on the canal right next est monkey found in Panama. trees. Magnifying bean side of Panama is the Guna region. road. to a tropical wonderland where a variety Bringing our kayaks close to the spectacle with The population of these indigenous of birds, monkeys and reptiles could be the tress, we could observe Titi binoculars or a people is round 40,000. The name was Gamboa. Gamboa is a town near observed. Snail kites could be seen look- monkeys running, galloping and telephoto lens, we Kuna until 2012, when the spelling was Panama City that was populated by ing out for their prey. leaping from tree branch to tree could spot a com- changed to Guna. The Guna region people from the United States. It is now One of the highlights was being able branch. They did not hang from munity of mantled starts at the Continental Divide and con- an international community with a pris- to get up close to the rufous-naped their tails but used them for bal- howler monkeys. tinues offshore to a chain of about 360 tine rainforest in its backyard. The canal tamarin, also known locally as the Mono ance. Howlers are coral reef islands that stretch along the OLGA TORREY

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OLGA TORREY

CLOCKWISE FROM FAR LEFT: Guna Yala, as it is called by locals, is known as in the tourism industry; Beadwork known as Wini is traditionally worn on the limbs (left inset); Molas are sold as art work and used for clothing; Portrait of a Guna woman; Traditional wooden canoes are used to bring supplies to the island; Guna men are excellent free divers and spearfishers; Guna women own their homes (lower left inset)

LARRY COHEN from the so many unique experiences. Div- of the Yemaya’ II, as well as Yala Guna for ing with a variety of sharks and Tours Panama (www.yalatour- US$30. Tour- other pelagic marine life and spanama.com). ism is now a then having encounters with the big part of wildlife in the rainforest is a well- Larry Cohen and Olga Torrey the Guna rounded trip for which it is well are well-traveled and published LARRY COHEN economy. The worth spending as much time as underwater photographers based tradition of trade and self-deter- possible to enjoy.  in New York City, USA. They offer mination is one of the reasons the underwater photography courses Gunas have been able to suc- The authors wish to thank Coiba and presentations to dive shops, cessfully function independently, Dive Expeditions (www.coibadive- clubs and events. For more infor- OLGA TORREY compared to other indigenous expeditions.com) and the crew mation, visit: Liquidimagesuw.com. omy of the well-functioning The women are the owners of groups. traditional democracy they their houses and many of them maintain. manage businesses. They create Afterthoughts The Guna religion is called the Molas and Wini. Preparing the An adventure to Malpelo Island Baba and is based on fresh food and cooking is a part and a tour through Panama offers nature, involving a Father of their activity. Baba and a Mother Earth. Many Gunas used to work on

OLGA TORREY The governmental process the U.S. bases in the former Canal in the big meetings of the Zone. Having a strong sense of coast down to Columbia. The Guna includes (religious) meta- community, money was sent tourist industries call these islands phors of their view of the world. back home to build schools and the San Blas Islands, but the locals Artwork known as Molas deco- hospitals. Now many are profes- know them as Guna Yala. Yala rate the blouses of the Guna sionals, working in Panama City. translates to mountain and land. women and are used as the base The have a his- In the past, the Panamanian for clothing. The designs replace tory of selling goods through government tried to dominate what used to be body paint. The family-owned venues. They place Guna culture, suppressing tradi- women wear attractive bead- a strong emphasis on economic tional customs in order to con- work on their legs known as Wini. success. Small retail stores owned trol the people. In 1925 the Dule The men farm, collect coconuts by the Guna people sell Molas Revolution resulted in a treaty in and fish. Scuba diving is illegal for throughout Panama and abroad. which the Panamanians agreed both locals and tourists, but many Coconuts and lobster are impor- to recognize the Guna people’s Guna men are excellent freediv- tant exports. Colombian trade cultural freedom and semi-auton- ers and spearfishers. boats buy a hundred coconuts

OLGA TORREY OLGA TORREY

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RIGHT: Global map with location of Malpelo Language Island, Columbia Spanish is the official lan- BELOW: Map of guage, with 14% speak- Panama SOURCES: U.S. CIA WORLD FACTBOOK, XE.COM, ing English, as many OECD.ORG, DATA.WORLDBANK.ORG Panamanians are bilingual.

History In the 16th century, the are primar- Visa Visas are not required Spanish settled in Panama. In ily comprised of Sea El Porvenir for visitors from Europe, 1821, Panama gained indepen- rolling hills and Australia, Great Britain, United Coco Solo Bocas del Cristóbal dence from Spain and—together plains. Lowest Toro Colón States and Canada for visits of up with , Ecuador and point: Pacific PANAMA to 180 days. Lago CITY Venezuela—formed the Republic Ocean 0m. COSTA Golfo de los Gatun Mosquitos Balboa of Gran Colombia. This was dis- Highest point: RICA Panama Travel advisory From the solved in 1830, but Panama Volcan Baru Canal U.S. Department of State, Bureau formed an alliance with Colombia. 3,475m. Note: of Consular Affairs, recommends David ARCHIPELAGO La Palma However, in 1903, Panama sepa- Panama occu- DE LAS Environmental avoiding travel to remote areas off rated, and collaborated with the pies a strategic PERLAS Isla del Yaviza issues Water pollu- the Pan American Highway in the Rey United States for the construction location at the Santiago tion due to agricultural Darién Province. The number of of a canal. The Panama Canal eastern end of Chitré Gulf of runoff, deforestation, incidents remains low, tourist and was opened in August 1914, after an isthmus which Panama siltation due to soil ero- Panamanian citizens are potential- a decade of construction work forms a land sion and land degrada- ly at risk of violent crime in this area. undertaken by the U.S. Army bridge that con- tion, urban air pollution Isla de Isla de Corps of Engineers. In 1977, it was nects North and Cébaco and natural resources Health Routine vaccines should Coiba COLUMBIA agreed that the Canal would be South America. threatened by min- be current, including measles- transferred to Panama by the end The nation con- ing are problems. On mumps-rubella (MMR), diphtheria- of the century. Over the years, trols the Panama NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN the positive side, the tetanus-pertussis, varicella (chick- certain portions and responsibilities Canal, which government is creating enpox), polio, Hepatitis A & B, over the Canal were transferred links the North Pacific Ocean with Canal. This would improve eco- ing partner is the United States. parks and wildlife refuges, passing Typhoid and yearly flu shot. Tourists to Panama. In 1989, the dictator the North Atlantic Ocean, by way nomics of scale, boost the interna- The U.S. Congress approved the environmental laws, and establish- from countries where yellow fever Manuel Noriega was deposed. of the . tional maritime trade and maintain U.S.-Panama Trade Promotion ing conservation agencies. is endemic must be vaccinated A decade later, the Canal, the the Canal’s competitiveness. To Agreement in 2011, and this for yellow fever in order to enter area supporting the Canal and Economy About 75% of date, more than 30,000 jobs had was entered into force on 31 Currency United States Dollar Panama. the remaining U.S. mililtary bases Panama’s GDP comprises the ser- been created as a result of the October 2012. In December 2003, and Panama Balboas (PAB) were turned over to Panama. vices sector, which covers various expansion. As at December 2014, the Organisation for Economic Exchange rates: 1USD= 1PAB; Decompression chamber Government: Constitutional areas such as the Panama Canal, the project was 83% completed. Co-operation and Development 1EUR= 1.13PAB; 1GBP= 1.50PAB; Multiplace Chamber democracy. Capital: Panama City the Colon Free Zone, logistics, Although Panama’s economy has (OECD) listed Panama as one 1AUD= 0.77PAB; 1SGD= 1.74PAB Panama Canal Authority Bldg. banking, insurance, container performed progressively well over of the jurisdictions committed to 706, Balboa Panama City. Geography Panama is located ports, flagship registry and tourism. the years (thanks to its strong trans- improving transparency and estab- Population 3,608,431 (July Telephone (507) 272-8738 in Central America, and borders In 2013, the unemployment rate portation, logistics services sectors lishing effective exchange of infor- 2014 est.) Ethnic groups: mestizo Transportation from Malpelo to the Caribbean Sea and the North dropped to 4.5%. Part of the eco- and infrastructure development), mation in tax matters. (Amerindian and white) 70%, the chamber is not practical. Pacific Ocean, between Costa nomic boost stems from the expan- the income distribution is the sec- Amerindian and mixed (West In-water decompression proce- Rica and Colombia. Coastline: sion of the Panama Canal, which ond-worst in Latin America. In 2013, Climate Panama has a tropi- Indian) 14%, white 10%, Amerindian dures are used. 2,490km. Terrain: Panama’s interior started in September 2007. Costing 25.8% of the population lived in cal maritime climate that is cloudy, 6%. Religions: Roman Catholic comprises mostly of sharp, rugged US$5.25 billion, it sought to double poverty. This figure has been steadi- hot and humid. The rainy season is 85%, Protestant 15%. Internet users: Websites mountains and divided, highland the waterway’s capacity by creat- ly falling, down from 38% in 2006. May to January and the dry season 959,800 (2009) Visit Panama plains. The country’s coastal areas ing a new lane of traffic along the Panama’s most important trad- January to May. www.visitpanama.com 

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