Croatia Winter Survival Guide-V2.0

Croatia Winter Survival Guide

Every year, around the end of August, people all over Croatia start to get a little twitchy. Then at the end of September, their brow starts to perspire and some start biting their nails. By late October, many are in a full blown panic about the onset of winter.

Panic that they will never see summer ever again and that they have no idea how they will survive the cold and social dead zone of winter. This intense winterphobia is infinitely worse on the coast, where life revolves around sun and sea. Dalmatians are practically ready to lay down and die after the first chilly rain.

Even foreigners suffer from winter dread, claiming that there is absolutely nothing to do in Croatia during winter time. This may have been true 10 years ago, but it is no longer the case.

There are many things to do during winter in Croatia. Some of these things to do can only be done in wintertime or are best in the snow.

Never fear! Do not lay down and give up because it is frosty outside!

Winter is survivable. Perhaps even enjoyable.

1. Advent

Advent, which refers to the run up to Christmas, is celebrated all over the country throughout the month of December (some even run into January). More than 20 cities as well as small villages have Advent festivals filled with concerts, ice skating, outdoor bars, cultural programs, tons of food and drink, Christmas fairs, and general merriment.

Here is a full list of the Advent celebrations for December 2019 and January 2020.

Meet up with some friends (or fetch your kids) and get a heavy does of Christmas cheer, kuhano vino and fritule.

2. See your friends!

During summer, many are busy traveling and working crazy hours and tied up with engagements. So much so, it can be hard to find time to meet up with friends. We constantly say “after season I’ll have more time”.

Well it’s after season! Winter is the perfect time to see all the people you didn’t have time for, or didn’t have time for you, during summer. Meet up at Advent, toss back a few hot wines and reconnect.

3. Ski on Sljeme

Just a 40-minute drive north of Zagreb lies the peak of Sljeme, perfect for winter hiking, skiing, and snowboarding. Sljeme is a second home for the citizens of Zagreb.

Skiing and snowboarding are possible throughout winter. The ski resort is open every day from 9:00 to 16:00. For those who prefer night skiing, there is also a night ski resort. You can ski every Tuesday and Thursday from 19:00 to 22:00. Night skiing is a stunning experience and features a panoramic view of Zagreb’s lights by night.

You can also spend the night on Sljeme at hotel “Tomislavov dom” or “Snježna kraljica” tourist apartments. For those who like adventure more than a hotel comfort, mountain huts are the best choice. Puntijarka is the biggest mountain hut with 35 beds.

4. Film festivals

There are FOUR film festivals on during winter.

If you’ve got kids, check out these two children’s focused film festivals:

▪ KinoKino – International Film Festival for Children o When: Late February o Where: Zagreb o Details: More Info Here

▪ International Children’s Film Showcase o When: Early March o Where: Čakovec

If you’re interested in more adult fare, check out:

▪ Film Mutations: Festival of Invisible Cinema o When: Staggered dates starting end of January and wrapping up early March o Where: Rijeka, Split and Zagreb o Details: More Info Here and Here

▪ ZagrebDox (focused on documentaries) o When: March 15-22, 2020 o Where: Zagreb o Details: More Info Here and Here

5. Choco and Wine Fest in Istria

Focused on the pairing of chocolate and wine. Is there anything else one needs to know?

When: February 15-16, 2020 Where: Brtonigla Details: More Info Here

6. See Plitvice in the snow

Plitvice Lakes is the crown jewel of national parks in Croatia. Most people explore Plitvice during summer when it’s warm. However, visiting it during the dead of winter when it’s covered in a thick layer of snow is a completely different experience.

The forest is frosted white, the waterfalls are frozen into blue- ish icicles, and there is NOBODY else around making it the perfect time to wander this winter wonderland and discover every hidden jewel in the park.

Bundle up and take a trip up to Plitvice this winter. More Info Here

7. Enjoy the emptiness and beauty of where you live

Let’s be honest. Summer in tourist hotbeds is a mess. The city’s core is clogged with gobs of walking tours and aimlessly wandering tourists, staring at the sky.

It can be very hard to enjoy the place you live during summer.

Speaking for myself, I avoid Diocletian’s Palace at all costs during high season. If I must go into the city center, I race through back alleys with head down, practicing my tourist dodging capabilities carefully honed over many years of living in tourist towns.

In the winter, I reacquaint myself with the city I love. I can slowly mosey through Split’s narrow streets at my own pace, I can gaze up at the architecture, and I can visit caffe bars and restaurants that were too packed to deal just a few months ago.

8. Be a tourist

Check out all the sites that you wouldn’t be caught dead visiting during high season.

Climb a tower. Go on a walking tour. Visit some wineries. Take selfies at a stunning lookout with reckless abandon. There won’t be any lines, so do ALL THE THINGS.

BONUS: Prices usually drop during winter or there might be an option to negotiate a lower rate for walking and winery tours.

9. Run a marathon Like to run? While there are many races throughout the year, there are 3 marathons during winter to keep your muscles warm. Only run if chased? Grab a group of friends, beers, and snacks to tailgate and cheer on those who run for pleasure.

▪ Plava Laguna Half Marathon o What: Half Marathon, 10K Run, Family Run, Kids Run o When: March 21-22, 2020 o Where: Poreč o Details: More Info here

▪ Split Marathon o What: Marathon and Half Marathon o When: February 23, 2020 o Where: Split o Details: More Info Here

▪ Winter Half Marathon o What: Half Marathon, 21K Run o When: February 2, 2020 o Where: Varaždin o Details: More Info Here

10. Noć muzeja

On a night in late January or early February, museums across the country open their doors to the public so you can visit them for free on Noć muzeja. Hundreds of museums and galleries participate.

Although some museums may get crowded, everyone comes out and there is an energy in the air. Despite the cold, everybody is in a good mood.

While this year’s date has yet to be set, it is coming. The next one for 2020 will be announced on their Facebook page and their web site.

11. Go to the theater

Croatia has 5 national theaters and all of them work in winter. Get dressed up, grab a friend or significant other, and settle into a red velvet seat to watch a drama, opera, or ballet.

Here is everything you need to see a show:

§ HNK Osijek o Theater info o Winter program

§ HNK Split o Theater info o Winter program § HNK Varaždin o Theater info o Winter program § HNK Zagreb o Theater info o Winter program § HNK Zajc in Rijeka o Theater info o Winter program

12. Winter carnivals

It is common for carnivals to set up shop in a parking lot or on a pitch somewhere during wintertime, when crowds are mostly local and more manageable.

Split has one every year that sets up on Stari Plac for the month of January. The carnivals are great for families and childless adults alike. Go on some rides, play some games, and eat some street food.

13. Karneval and Maškare

Karneval (or “Carneval” in English) is a week of celebrations culminating in a giant party just before the start of Lent, 6 weeks before Easter.

This is celebrated in most Catholic countries. As Croatia is a heavily Catholic country, Karneval is celebrated with a variety of events around the country with the biggest party happening on the Tuesday before Lent, which in Croatia is called Maškare when everyone dresses up like someone else, kinda like Halloween, and goes absolutely nuts.

Kids will make masks in school, then on the day of Maškare will go around the neighborhood masked in small groups knocking on doors. They will sing a song and the host will give them a few kuna, candies or donuts to reward them.

This year, Karneval runs from February 20 to the 25, 2020. The best and most elaborate celebrations in Croatia include:

§ Dubrovnik § Island Pag § Rijeka – This is the most famous and largest Karneval celebration in Croatia § Samobor § Split

Get a costume and party down like a Catholic.

14. See a movie

Baby, it’s cold outside. This is the best time to curl up in chair with some popcorn and catch up on the latest blockbusters.

To sweeten the deal, Cinestar offers a discount on movie tickets every Wednesday at all of its theaters. No promo code needed.

For the non-Croatian speakers in the room, movies in English are only subtitled in Croatian, they are not dubbed. However, if you’re planning on taking your kids to see something animated, kids movies are usually dubbed.

BONUS: If you go see a movie that is at the end of its run or a lesser known movie in the early afternoon, you may get the theater all to yourself.

15. Go on a hike or a bike ride

It’s really easy to stay inside in the warmth and laze the winter away, but you’ve got to get moving! We’re not getting any younger and that metabolism is slowing down.

Croatia does have sunny days during winter and those days should be spent outside. On those beautiful days, bundle up and go on a hike or a bike ride.

There are an endless number of trails all over this country, from the short and easy to the long and advanced. Here are some of the bigger ones to get you started. There are 70 hiking trails on Sljeme alone.

Or hell, just bike ride around your neighborhood…with some caffe bars stops along the way, of course.

16. Take a nap…in the middle of the day

Everyone deserves a pauza, some hot tea, and a blanket, especially in winter when the crap weather and jugo can just pull all of the energy from your body.

There is absolutely nothing to feel guilty about. Sleep is a glorious thing. Be Croatian and take an afternoon nap.