Journal of Fashion Business Vol. 5, No. 5. pp.77~86(2001)
An Analysis and Comparison of the Characteristics of Traditional Hanbok and Everyday(daily) Hanbok Focusing on the Basic Dress+
Shim Hwa-jin Prof., Dept. of Clothing, Sungshin Women’s University
Abstract
The traditional dress of a nation represents that nations organic culture. The traditional Hanbok dress has become our traditional wear through many centuries of history. This paper studies the real world use of daily Hanbok and provide comparative data and compares the traditional and daily Hanbok with focus on the basic Hanbok. It will also present my views on the future of daily Hanbok design with beauty as an emphasis.
I. Forward represents traditional beauty, function, ease of activity and the improvement of the traditional The traditional dress of a nation represents that Hanbok to provide comfort. Modern age Hanbok nation’s organic culture. The traditional Hanbok was called improved Hanbok or changed dress has become our traditional wear through Hanbok but these names had a negative tone many centuries of history. As our way of life has and it became popular to refer Hanbok as Daily changed, the color and design has changed Hanbok, Our clothes or Modern Hanbok. also. But in spite of the change in time and way of These widely worn daily Hanbok inherits its life, the maintenance of our tradition is evidence traditions from the traditional Hanbok. This thesis of our efforts to keep wearing the tradition and tries to provide a comparison and analysis of the roots of our society. Especially with the expansion characteristics of traditional and daily Hanbok for of the modern daily Hanbok, the interest by the use in the design and production of Hanbok in everyday person towards tradition has become the future. This paper sets the following greater and is accepted much more actively. purposes; From the 1990s, widespread use of Hanbok First, I will conduct a study of historic were seen to rapidly expand throughout society documents on traditional Hanbok and a study of and those with fashion and tradition were the real world use of daily Hanbok and provide especially in demand. The daily Hanbok comparatative data.
+ This paper was supported by a Grant from Sungshin Women’s University in 1999.
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Second, I will compare the traditional and daily 1) Length Hanbok focusing on the basic Hanbok. In ancient times, women’s Geogo-ri length went Third, I will present my views on the future of down to the hips but by the time of Koryo until the daily Hanbok design with beauty as an mid-Chosun it only reached the upper hip line. By emphasis. the late Chosun era it was shortened to the breast For this study The Samkuk saki (History of the line showing further diversity in length. But for Three kingdoms), Samkukgi, Weisaw (Wei men’s Hanbok the length of the Geogo-ri saw writings), Dangsaw (Dang writings), Koryosa very little change and maintained its length, to the (History of Koryo), Kukhonjung-rae, Karaedo- waist and upper hip line throughout the ages. The gamui-gib and Chosun wang-jo shillok (the daily Hanbok of today maintains this palace history of Chosun) and present day characteristic and has evolved to a jacket which publications of manufacturers of daily Hanbok is approximately 70 to 79cms in length and is were used. similar to that of the 17th century. For women’s Geogo-ri, which tries to maintain traditional as well as modern characteristics of the Geogo-ri II. Comparison of the characteristics of style, the average length is longer and the back traditional Hanbok and daily Hanbok length is about 8.0cms longer and covers the waist. Analysis of the actual Geogo-ri shows that 1. Goego-ri(top shirt) the length is approximately 51 to 55cms.
The Geogo-ri saw more change during the 2) Sleeve years in comparison with pants and skirt which Sleeves were attached to the body frame and forms Hanbok. Geogo-ri was worn by both men were called Sue, Geo and Yi. and women. According to historical writings, it It can be differentiated by length and width. was called Yu, Boksam, Daesu-sam, Hwang-yu, Length in turn is divided into Dan(short)-su and Jang-yu. Jang(long)-su and width into the narrow version The traditional Hanbok Geogo-ri consists of the called Chack-su or Tong-su or the wider version front and back Gil, Dungsol-ki, Somae called Gwang-su or Dae-su. Since the Three (sleeve),Gut(outer)-sub, Ahn(inner)-sub, Geet Kingdom period, the upper class favored the (collar), Dong-jung and Otgeo-room. Especially, Gwang-su and the average population favored the Dungsol, which is at the middle of the back the Chack-su. For the modern daily Hanbok, Gil, was originally used to connect the back piece Chack-su is widely used and for ceremonial because of the lack of width of the cloth. But even dress Gwang-su is popularly used. As stated, to after widening of the fabric it has not changed this day both Gwang-su and Chack-su are used. and has become an original characteristic of For traditional Hanbok, the width of the sleeve Hanbok. Also by adding pockets or by using was the same as the Jindong line or narrower decorations like Pin-tuk or piping, it became more and the Goksun-bae-rae, which is the type that is useful. wider than the Jindong, was also used. In the
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name type Traditional Hanbok Traditional Daily HanbokHanbok Daily Hanbok Mostly seen at higher class Found in ceremonial dress in Dae- groups. Very wide sleeves the shape of a Hwal-su Su (Tomb Ahnak#3) (’00 Jilkyong-I) A traditional form of sleeve Maintains the same shape from Tong- found from ancient age to the ancient age Gik- su Chosun dynasty Bae- (Gakjeu painting wifes portrait) (’98 Jilkyong-I) G rae Maintained shape with added e Mostly found in ancient practicality o Koguryo Paintings. Lower class Chak- (’98 autumn yeorut-I-hamke) g dress su Maintained shape with added o curved Jindong line r (Mooyong paniting) (’00 spring Dolshil-la-I) i Found from the 19th century to Same in shape as the the present Gokbaerae in traditional Gok- (Sungshin Univ.) hanbok (’98 Fall Jilkyong-I) Bae- Found in the late Chosun Maintains Jindong and Baerae rae dynasty. Curve Jindong line line with Gokbae-rae Geogo-ri. (Dam-in Art museum) (’99 Fall Hanul-so) modern daily Hanbok, nearly all were the same Ban(half)-Mokpan collars were introduced and in width as the Jindong line and was a strait cut to the late Chosun era extended to the Ban-Mokpan the sleeve with the Baerae line of the sleeve collar and Dangko-git and in the late 19th century having a curve. This can be seen as an emphasis transformed to the Doong-dul-lae(round) collar. on practicality and usability seen throughout the Also, the Kal(knife)-Git(collar) were first found in Three Kingdom period to the present day. The the inner Geogo-ri but after the Japanese daily Hanbok shows us that tradition is being invasion of 1592 it was also found in the outer maintained in the design of Hanbok and is Geogo-ri. The present day daily Hanbok puts modified to be comfortable. emphasis on the neck and reflects all of the collar shapes mentioned above and the double collar 3) Collar shape was widely used in the Yosun-chul-lik (a one From the ancient historic period to the Koryo piece type dress) of the Koryu era. New style period the collar of the Geogo-ri was either Ham- collars as well as traditional type collars are being ib (collars meeting at the end) or Jikryung-gyo- developed and the head of the collar is am type (one side of the jacket over the other) combining the western fashion and pattern to and occasionally Gok(curve)-ryung types. During show a natural reflection of the neck’s beauty. the early and mid Chosun era Mokpan and
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name type Traditional Hanbok Traditional Daily HanbokHanbok Daily Hanbok Overlap of strait collar. Found G I Geo from ancient times in Yu and po. (’99 Fall Dalma-j) k im Overlaps both left and right. R (Susan-ri painting) y Mostly found in ancient Koguryo Shortened collars u Hab n Paintings. Lower class dress g im (Samsil chong Hangyul-do) (’98 spring Dolshil-la-I) Rounded neck line Danryung type seen in Gok- Gok ryung and Po. Ryung (Dukhung-ri painting) (’98 spring Dolshil-la-I) Kept at Haein-sa Temple. First Similar to traditional collar but Double G known double Collar shorter collar e (’98 spring Dolshil-la-I) o Mok Pan exists till the late 15~16th Maintained shape of Mok-pan & half g Collar Mok Pan century (Excavated from Kims collar Used tie button o Collar tomb of Soonchon) (’98 spring Dolshil-la-I) r Angle cut and uses Ban-ryung i First found in the 17th century. Bal (’00 spring Dolshil-la-I) Sown at the middle and sown Ryung Not snapped but With an angle again down below the chin. with An outer collar (’99 fall Ha-nul-so) Seen in under garments. Outer Similar Kal collar Tie button Kal garments started to appear in the used Collar 16th century. (Gen Jeon pak tomb) (’99 Fall Yeorut-I Hamge) Popular from mid-Chosun uses Subco of the Dang-co Dang women. Collar Co Continues to 17~18th century. Collar (Gen Jeon pak tomb) (’98 fall Jilkyong-I)
4) Oat-go-roum(Coat string) long coat strings but for daily Hanbok it is often times replaced by a button or a tie button. In In ancient times the Oat-go-roum (Coat string) modern design there seems to be more of an was used as a belt, but from the Koryu period it emphasis for the use of the coat string as a transformed into a short string or a coat button designing point. enhancing practicality. After the mid Chosun era the Go-roum changed in width and after the 19th 5) Dong-jung (white collar covers) century, was sometimes replaced by a broach or Dong-jung made its appearance in the late a tie button. Traditional Hanbok uses wide and Koryu era and is extended to our times in its
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traditional form. It is also an important part of the horses, women of lower classes were the ones beauty of Hanbok. But for modern daily Hanbok the mostly wearing pants. For the peasants, in stead Dong-jung is either the same fabric as the Geogo-ri of the skirt of full length a shorter length skirt itself or is of different shape and color of the Geogo- exposing the pants inside the skirt was worn and ri. Many times Dong-jung is not used at all. the end was tied. This is presumed a custom from the Chak-go(narrow width) culture. The Ba-ji ,which was worn on the outside until the Koryu 2. Ba-ji (pants) era became an under garment from the Chosun Through ancient documents we are able to dynasty. It fashioned a open middle. In modern know that Ba-ji(pants) was worn from ancient times it has closed again and has become an times to the Koryu era by both men and women. outer wear again. In ancient times Ba-ji had many names; a wide Women’s Ba-ji were hard to find after the Koryu Ba-ji was called Daegu-go, narrow Ba-ji was era, but is found in modern daily Hanbok. The called Se-go or Goong-go, long Ba-ji were called shape is similar to that of male Ba-ji and is Jang-go and a short Ba-ji was called Gon. suitable for people of activity. It is also popular Names by fabric are Gal-go and Nung-go, by with kindergarten and young children. color red-yellow go and blue gold go. Wide pants 2) Men’s Ba-ji were tied and narrower pants were not tied but a Sun (a frill) was added. Gon type Ba-ji were worn Male Ba-ji has seen little change from the by wrestlers or men of trade, laborers and other ancient era to modern day today. Only the name active individuals. Men and women all wore Ba-ji. has changed to Ba-ji, Go-ui and Jam-bang and Records concerning Ba-ji are found in the was used as outer and under garments. Ba-ji are Jangwei-cho of the Koryu Do-kyung and Goong- less decorative and is categorized by shape and go of Koryu and Paekjae. Other than these method of wear. The Ba-ji has a structural records there are no other documents. In the characteristic of having at the waist a Maru- Chosun era records show various mention of Ba-ji pok(length of Baji) and Kun (big)sa-pok to finish in the form of E-ui,Mal-gun,Bong-di, Nuryun-baji one side of the pants and then a Maru-pok and and Nubi-baji stated in the Kuk-hon and Sang- Jakun(small) bang Jung-rae documents. sa-pok finished the whole pants. The size of the Ba-ji can be changed with the width of the Maru 1) Women’s pants and the big/small Sa-pok. Once spread out it is Womens pants became a skirt or underwear spread out flat. This simple design allows the Ba- pants by the Chosun dynasty. Women pants ji to be worn with a belt or Dae-nim(ankle tie), overlapped at the crotch and the ends were allowing for all people of different sizes to wear narrow with a curve. The waist was tied. Women Ba-ji without major reconfiguration. This also of upper class wore something called a Mal-gun allows for comfort when sitting on the floor. for riding or in the palanquin. This was a tradition Traditionally Hanbok Ba-ji consists of Maru- from when pants were worn by women on the pok, Kunsa-pok, Jakun sa-pok, waist, waist belt outside. As women of nobility stopped riding and Dae-nim. This basic component is the same
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namename type Traditional Hanbok Traditional Daily HanbokHanbok Daily Hanbok Baji tied at bottom. Wide. Daegu-go from Samsil tom. Daenim at Baji cuff for comfort. (Samsil painting) (’98 spring Dolshil-la-I) Paekje statesmen and Shilla Daenim at Baji cuff. Daegugo envoy uniform. Practical dress. No Daenim at cuff. Daegu-go. (Shilla envoy in Samarkant (’98 spring Dolshil-la-I) afrasiab painting) Narrow/short Baji with Maintains short Length, Gon Jambang-I type. practical. (Samsil tomb) (’98 summer Jilkyong-I) BajI Short half pants. Transformed to Exercise Dangal wear. (Gakjeu tomb) For lower class. Narrow cuff. Sego Did not tie cuff. Narrows towards cuff. (Muyong tomb) (’98 summer Jilkyong-I) Shilla pants. Narrow cuff with wrinkled Goonggo Narrow cuff and not tied. cuff for comfort. (Shilla Toyong) (’98 fall Jilkyong-I) A Sapok with modification of Modified to comfortably Baji Goong-go style. wear. Daenim and at the waist. Tied the ankle With Daenim. (’98 summer Jilkyong-I) for modern daily Hanbok. Only in modern times, not made at all. Sa-pok and Kun sa-pok were cut in the form of western clothing. For the waist, in stead of a belt 3. Chi-ma (skirt) a button, rubber band or a zipper was used. The tip has two trends, the Gwan-go type uses The Chi-ma consists of pok (piece), Chima-pok buttons or ties instead of the Da-nim or by and a waist belt. A huge square cloth affects the maintaining a wide upper part and a narrow lower body and with a natural and simple shape seems part and using wrinkles to adjust the excess to move with rhythm and forms the frill. portion of the dress can be seen. The Se-go type 1) Length of Chi-ma seen in the Koguryo wall paintings is narrow and did not require a Dae-nim. Also a frill was added The Chi-ma changed from a long length skirt to for practicality and comfort. Pockets were inside a shorter skirt exposing the under pants in a the Geogo-ri or added outside and sometimes period from the ancient times to today. The Chi-
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ma evolved with the Goego-ri. In the modern age and is evidence of traditional Hanbok features in the Chi-ma became shorter in length and width modern daily Hanbok. Also the fashion of wearing for women with social positions. Here we saw the the Goego-ri over the Chi-ma during the Koryu short and long skirts co-exist together. In the late era is transformed into the one piece dress of the Chosun dynasty it was popular for people to hold daily Hanbok. Also in the daily Hanbok Chi-ma, their long dress up to the point where their under we can find the Suran-dan to fashion the skirt pants would show. Upper class women stopped during Dae-rae(great ceremonies) and other wearing gold printed and woven skirts and mostly ceremonies. But for the length of the dress we wore short Chi-ma and changed to long Chi-ma find that daily Hanbok is shorter for comfort. at home. Short Chi-ma were worn by wives of 2) Wearing Hanbok preachers and educated women and fashions were affected by number of wrinkles, width of The traditional way of wearing Hanbok is to wrinkles and length of the Chi-ma. wear the Goego-ri over the Chi-ma or to wear the In the daily Hanbok length, was selected Chi-ma and then wear the Goego-ri. The latter is between the arm pit to the ankle and the width an influence from China and is not used as of the was 4~5 wide. It seems to get these features Chosun dynasty. During the Chosun period we from Kun(a sort of skirt) or Sang(a sort of skirt) can observe the simplification of Goego-ri and
time namedivision type TraditionalTraditional Hanbok Hanbok Daily Hanbok Daily Hanbok For ceremony and warmth. Maintains traditional shape. Color chima and an added hem. Ancient Others with different collars. Time Continued to Shilla. (Susan-ri noble women) (’98 fall Yeorut-I Hamge) Two ways to wear Chima. Chima over Geogo-ri. Chima over Geogo-ri or Geogo-ri Modified to one piece type dress. Koryo over Chima. (Munhwa gwehwan-do) (’98 fall Yeorut-I Hamge) Sran Decorative & used during ceremony. Sran type used to improve. chima One or two sran added. Decorative effect. Chosun dynasty (Daeran chima from Han clan) (’98 fall Dolshil-la-I) Shortened skirt length by Comfortable to wear with enlightened women. Shoulder straps. Seamless Waist belt changed to shoulder one piece suspenders. chima (owned by Ehwa Univ. visual Ed institute) (’98 fall Yeorut-I Hamge)
83 Journal of Fashion Business Vol. 5, No. 5. the length of the Chi-ma becoming longer. The
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DivisionDivision Characteristics Characteristics ·Male/female Goego-ri are all longer than traditional Hanbok length ·Male Goego-ri are a jacket type covering the hips ·Female Goego-ri length is to the waist ·Goego-ri sleeves are a strait line w/ Jindong and sleeve line ·Made w/ Chak-su in stead of Gwang-su sleeve ·The Baerae line is round Geo ·Sleeves representing practicality and use go ·Jikryug-gyo-im,Ham-ib, Kok-ryong,double/Mok-pan half Mok-pan, Kal, Dang-ko ri collar ·Shorter in length ·Less folding ·Broach or button or tie button in stead of coat string coat string ·Shorter and narrower coat string ·Same as Goego-ri fabric white collar ·No white collar but with only the original collar ·Reflection of female wearing custom ·Button, tie, rubber band and zipper instead of belt Ba-ji ·Button or tie instead of Da-nim ·Selected length from arm pit to ankle Chima ·Comfort extended by use of shoulder/waist for Chi-ma waist
Korean culture. It would be prudent to find ways to shapes and forms. As Ms. Lee, Kyung-hees inherit the traditional beauty by taking into account study (1997) states the simple and clean and yet the shape, color, fabric and form. stable femininity of the Korean design gave an Therefore, I would like to express the following affirmative effect to Korea’s image. In order to on the future design of Hanbok.(Ref chart #7) bring about the true identity of modern daily The change in the Geogo-ri length and the Chi- Hanbok I believe we need to start from these ma, the maintenance of the original Baerae line similar images. with the added use of color, shape, fabric, decorations are a good way to make future Hanbok. Especially, there is a need to develop IV. Conclusion adequate decorations and accessories to suite the modern daily Hanbok. If these are traditional This study’s purpose is to compare the shapes and meanings to reflect the image and characteristics of traditional and modern daily allure of Korea then all the better. These Hanbok and the application of the advantages of decorations and accessories should have a traditional Hanbok to the daily Hanbok. practical use such as a needle holder or perfume As stated in this study, Hanbok meets our bag to enhance practicality. Also it would be natural environment and the living conditions of prudent to add modern qualities to traditional Korea and has been passed on to us today. It is
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a representation of our identity as well. But 6) Kukhonjungrae [國婚定例]. tradition does not mean the total and unchanged 7) Chosunwangjoshillok [朝鮮王朝實錄]. values of the past. Tradition is to carry on the 8) Susaw [隋書]. spirit and at the same time to re-establish in order 9) Jaekuk Newspaper, 19, Jun, 1907. to meet the needs of the time. Only by creative 10) Yu Hee-kyung. (1975). A study on korean thinking will we be able to capture the true clothing. Ehwa Women’s University. meaning of our heritage and lead to a rightful 11) Lee Kyung-ja. (1987). A thesis on the history inheritance of the Hanbok. of korean clothing. Seoul: ILJI printing. This study looked into ancient documents and 12) Cho Hyo-soon. (1987). A study on the present day daily Hanbok and summarized it in customs or korean clothing history. Seoul: ILJI charts. It also provides comments and printing. recommendations to maintain the true meaning of 13) Cho Hyo-sook. (1998). A study on the our tradition. In conclusion the following points purchasing behavior of saenghwal Hanbok. are made; Society for culture of HanBok, vol.1, No.2, pp. First, the daily Hanbok must be made within the 67~81. frame of traditional Hanbok and its decorations as 14) Choi Sun-hyung. (1997). The conscious ness the basic shape. of korean urban women for wearing HanBok, Second, A variety of fabrics and shapes are the Traditional Dress. The Journal of the required. We must train our designers to korean society of costume, No.35, pp. understand traditional shapes, colors and fabrics 253~264. and establish a structure for industry, government 15) Hong Na-young. (1990). A study of the korean and the educational institutes to cooperate. costume renovation movement. The Journal of Third, We need a pricing structure that will the korean society of costume, No.15, pp. have a variety of prices from low, mid and high 141~148. instead of the mid to low prices that we have now. 16) Jin Mee-hee. (1990). The transition of korean Fourth, We must expand our modern daily clothes since the 1950’s. The Journal of the Hanbok to include various ages and generations korean society of costume, No.15, pp. and continue our study of these matters. 149~166. 17) Chun Jong-suk. (1998). A study on the clothing constructional characteristics of Reference contemporary folk Jogori design. Journal of the korean society of Clothing and Textiles, 1) Samkuksaki [三國史記]. vol.22, No.6, pp. 691~698. 2) Samkukgi [三國志]. 18) Kim Young-ja. (1999). The study of the beauty 3) Dangsaw [唐書]. of Korean Costume early 20th Century. 4) Koryosa [高麗史]. Society of culture of HanBok, vol.2, No.3, pp. 5) Boksa [北史]. 5~16.
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