MILEAGE PLAN ADVENTURES , STOCK PHOTO STOCK E SIME / / SIME

Goa’s Anjuna Beach is a popular destination along the Arabian Sea. Idyllic India Goa charms with rich natural beauty and a multicultural heritage

By Margot Kahn

“Just how much yoga will I have to do on a yoga retreat?” my husband asked when I Known for its white-sand beaches and proposed my plan for our vacation. He was trying to be open-minded. An all-around its laid-back vibe, 1,429-square-mile Goa can be roughly divided into three regions. good athlete, he knows yoga as a sort of muscle therapy to restore the body after hik- The bustling north, above the Mandovi ing, skiing, rowing or playing soccer, rather than an activity to which he would devote River, features shopping, resorts and a party scene that attracts Indians on holiday 10 days of vacation. But we had been talking about going to India for years, and I had as well as international travelers. The cen- a dream of perfecting my tree pose in the Then I got smart: “Remember when I went tral part of Goa includes its capital, , balmy beach state of Goa. with you to cross-country ski camp last as well as spice plantations, Hindu temples “I think it’s just a little bit of yoga,” I winter? And it was 20 below zero?” and Catholic cathedrals. South Goa is the replied, not really knowing what the In Goa, it is never 20 below zero. most mellow, with peaceful beach-hut schedule would be. “I’m sure there’ll be It is 80 degrees and sunny most days accommodations where one can awaken plenty of time to hang out at the beach.” from November through April. to nothing but the sound of the sea.

106 JANUARY 2012 ALASKA AIRLINES MAGAZINE A R TA In vast India, the tiny state I details S

of Goa spans just 63 miles of EEP Goa’s tourist season runs from mid- India’s west coastline, south of November until early April, with Y: SUND

ES December through February being the

Mumbai. Ruled by the Portuguese T R most pleasant time to travel, weather- OU

for 450 years, Goa is rich not only C in Indian culture, diverse flora wise. (June through September is the monsoon season.) For more information and fauna, jungle waterfalls and about visiting Goa, see www.goa.gov.in. soft stretches of sand, but also the remnants of colonial-era mansions, Stay cathedrals and a unique fusion Lotus Yoga Retreat: Lotus, in south cuisine. Guests at Satsanga Retreat in north Goa, has beach huts with exquisite views. For centuries, Goa’s Hindu merchants Goa have the opportunity to practice At least two yoga classes per day are pranayama (breathing exercises), traded spices, silk, pearls and horses inter- included in the price of a stay but are not meditation and yoga. mandatory; www.lotus-yoga-retreat.com. nationally. In 1510, a Portuguese naval Satsanga Retreat: In north Goa, officer discovered Goa’s natural harbors Europeans vacation and settle here, making Satsanga offers yoga vacations and per- and lucrative spice trade and claimed the for a diverse tourist and local population. sonal yoga retreats throughout the year, region for Portugal, defeating the army taught by teachers from around the world; of the Sultan of Bijapur. From the 16th to Our yoga vacation began on New Year’s www.satsangaretreat.com. 18th centuries, Goa’s population exceeded Eve at the Satsanga Retreat in the northern Siolim House: For a sense of the that of London and of Lisbon, and the village of Verla Canca. Satsanga is located colonial era, stay at this 350-year-old Portuguese empire’s administrative capital, inland, between Anjuna Beach and the Portuguese villa in north Goa. Restored Velha Goa (“”), was called the town of , on a winding road lined in 1999, the villa has suites and rooms Rome of the East. with trees. Dusk was falling as the red with gorgeous furnishings; www.siolim- In 1961, after 14 years of unsuccessful entrance gates opened, and our car roused house.com. negotiations with Portugal over the transi- a dog from the warm dirt drive. Inside, a Dine tion of power in Goa, modern India’s first few of our fellow yogis were lounging on La Plage: This restaurant on Ashwem prime minister, Jawaharlal Nehru, sent daybeds in an open-air courtyard, sipping Beach features excellent French food and in the army and wrested control of the fruit smoothies and talking quietly. We’d a lovely ambiance at night. region from the Portuguese government. missed dinner, but someone pointed us to a Sublime: The Indian chef/owner of this restaurant in the village of Saligao is TURKM.TheUZB. European legacy endured, however: buffet table in a room off the kitchen. TAJIKSTAN The standard of living and literacy rates are While enjoying rice and curry, vegetables, somewhat of a celebrity for his appear- ance on an Indian reality/cooking TV among the highestB_d[e\ in7h[WeYYkf_[Z India. And many pakora (fritters), Indian flatbread and raita 9edjheb Xo9^_dW 8=>?8E@JK8E WdZYbW_c[Z show. Visitors can dine in the outdoor Xo?dZ_W (a dip made of yogurt, cucumber garden setting or enjoy a drink in the and mint), I knew this would be a upstairs lounge. G8B@JK8E good week no matter what hap- :?@E8 Thalassa: This Greek restaurant sits pened in the yoga studio. We D[m:[b^_ on a cliff overlooking the sea in Vagator. EC8;

8iXY`XeJ\X run the retreat, split their time flowers, food, fabrics and souvenirs; open between India and his native daily in Mapusa, but the market is busiest Switzerland. They welcome an on Friday mornings.

SRI LANKA

ALASKA AIRLINES MAGAZINE JANUARY 2012 107 INDONESIA MILEAGE PLAN ADVENTURES Goa, India

Left: Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception church—in Goa’s STOCK PHOTO STOCK

E capital, Panaji—reflects the state’s Portuguese colonial heritage. SIME / / SIME Below: At the daily market in Mapusa, vendors sell spices, food, fabrics and other goods. Y M A AL / ER T ALLIS MC NEIL

international crowd to their quiet refuge in on the east by the moun- us through a series of gentle poses. The this lush paradise. tain range, Goa has great biodiversity. goal was to become more centered, to Early in the morning on New Year’s The coastal plains—with sandy beaches settle into ourselves, to be in the present Day, we curled into a large hanging chair and the salt marshes and mangrove-lined moment. We were asked to think about an on our room’s balcony and drank chai tea estuaries of the Mandovi and Zuari intention for our practice over the course while looking out into the treetops. Bor- rivers—give way to the moist-deciduous of the week together. On the first day, this dered on the west by the Arabian Sea and and semi-evergreen forests of the middle was challenging. My intention for day one plateau, with coconut, teak, cashew and was simply to be open to whatever came mango trees. In the mountains, moist- next. When we finished with yoga, break- Mollem National Park, Cotigao Wild- deciduous, semi-evergreen and evergreen fast was waiting: a long buffet of Indian life Sanctuary and Bondla Wildlife Sanc- forests are interspersed with stands of curries and pancakes; oatmeal; toast; tuary: For birding or hiking, any of these bamboo and cane. cashew nuts; and 20 kinds of fruit, all cut three wildlife sanctuaries are worth the day trip from Panaji. Bird-watching is a popular attraction into bite-size pieces and arranged on tin Savoi Plantation: Take a tour of in Goa, where almost 500 species of plates. I was very open to all of this. After this 200-year-old family-owned tropical birds can be found, including 17 species breakfast, we gathered our beach gear and plantation (located in the village of endemic or near-endemic to the Western set out on our first excursion. Savoi), which grows black pepper, cin- Ghats region. At least a few of them had On Jodi and Olaf’s recommendation, we namon, cardamom, clove and nutmeg. awakened us at dawn. rented a scooter for the equivalent of about It’s also a good spot for bird-watching; At 9 o’clock, we met in the yoga $4 a day. I was apprehensive at first, but we www.savoiplantation.com. studio downstairs. One wall of the figured out how to drive it and navigated Velha Goa (“Old Goa”): The remains studio opened onto a sparkling pool. A our way to Ashwem Beach, about 25 min- of the city, which served as the capital of statue of Ganesha—the Hindu elephant utes to the northwest. A stretch of sand Portuguese India from the 16th to the 18th deity who is the god of new beginnings with beach shacks offering food, Ashwem centuries, is now a UNESCO World Heri- and the remover of obstacles—sat above was quieter than Anjuna Beach, where tage Site, as is the Basilica of Bom Jesus the pool, draped with garlands of mari- India’s 1960 counterculture scene was most in Old Goa. This church, completed in 1605, is an excellent example of Baroque golds. The morning was still, save for the prominent, or Calangute, a beach packed architecture in India. St. Francis Xavier— occasional leftover New Year’s firecracker. with Indians on holiday. a missionary and student of St. Ignatius We took our places on our yoga mats and We chose the restaurant where the Loyola, who founded the Jesuit order—is sat quietly, stretched and breathed. chairs looked the most comfortable and buried here. —M.K. Jodi and her co-instructor, Tami, led devoured lamb vindaloo and fish curry,

ALASKA AIRLINES MAGAZINE JANUARY 2012 109 then sipped bottles of Kingfisher beer with 50 SW Morrison Street Portland, Oregon our feet in the sand. Having eaten, we used HotelFifty.com the lounge chairs in front of the restaurant 877.237.6775 and sipped drinks throughout the afternoon. The sea, when we ventured in, was warm and the waves buoyed us. Beach vendors displayed wares such as silks, kurtas and jewelry. For a few rupees, a young woman painted an intricate henna pattern around my ankle. And, as if we needed a further reminder of where we were, lounging on the beach were a few happy sacred cows. Satsanga proved to be an excellent base for us during our time in Goa, in large part because the retreat’s knowledgeable owners were happy to share their favorite spots. For example, in the nearby village of Morjim, we found Stuart—a British expat massage therapist who charged $20 for an hour’s massage. He worked in a thatched bunga- low, open on three sides to the jungle. We also visited the Wednesday flea market in Anjuna and the Friday market in Mapusa, where the spice merchants sat surrounded by colorful piles of cinnamon, mace, masala and peppercorns. Cottons, silks and linens were piled in other stalls, Affordable and a whole section of each market devoted Comfort! to flowers overflowed with marigolds. Women bought flowers by the bagful to create intricate designs, such as those that graced the courtyards of our retreat. From one stall we bought linen that we would later have fashioned into custom- tailored pants. At the spice merchant, we ANCHORAGE 3501 Minnesota Dr., Anchorage, AK • (907) 276-8884 bought bags of green cardamom pods, cinnamon sticks and three kinds of curry. FAIRBANKS 1909 Airport Way, Fairbanks, AK • (907) 451-8888 The Goan capital of Panaji along the Destination Mandovi estuary is quite charming, JUNEAU Super ® 2295 Trout St., Juneau, AK • (907) 789-4858 with a Baroque church—Our Lady of the KETCHIKAN SUPER8.COM Immaculate Conception—overlooking the 2151 Sea Level Dr., Ketchikan, AK • (907) 225-9088 1.800.800.8000 main square, and Portuguese-era red-tile- SEA-TAC AIRPORT roofed villas lining cobblestone streets. 3100 S. 192nd St., Seattle, WA • (206) 433-8188 Tourists are also drawn to Chandor, PORTLAND Save on Airport Parking at in the south, where many wealthy Indians 11011 N.E. Holman, Portland, OR • (503) 257-8988 GlobalAirportParking.com built beautiful colonial-era mansions. We Serving SeaTac, Spokane, Portland and visited a Hindu shrine, tucked into a cliff * over 70 other airports nationwide. Mention code AKSAVE for a 15% DISCOUNT wall and laden with incense and flowers. Use discount code 89898 NEW Suite rooms in Alaska FREE Wireless Internet at checkout for special savings! A few of our fellow travelers arranged a FREE SuperStart® breakfast FREE Airport shuttle service Customer Services (954) 828-0242 day excursion to a spice plantation and (COURTESY PHONE FOR PICKUP in baggage claim area) rode elephants. We explored several of *Must mention code AKSAVE to receive 15% off regular room rates. Not to be used in conjunction with any other discounts. Only valid at the Super 8 locations listed above. the northern beaches instead, and in the

110 JANUARY 2012 ALASKA AIRLINES MAGAZINE afternoons we returned to Satsanga for a dip in the pool’s cool water, to nap in a THE WEST MAY BE WILD, hammock, to be drizzled with warm oil—a traditional Ayurvedic treatment—and to sip but it’s not uncivilized coconut water through straws punched into the fruit’s thick green husks.

The last day of our trip found us zipping back from a beach on our scooter, navigat- ing by using landmarks, intuition and faith. We were being passed by heavy-duty trucks, makeshift taxis and faster-moving scooters. We were passing bicycles, goats, dogs, cows; carts overloaded with firewood being pulled by men; and carts overloaded RAINBOW RANCH LODGE with fruit drawn by oxen. We rode between rice paddies, past men Experience rugged outdoor adventures by day and savor sitting in plastic chairs and selling fresh the luxurious comforts of the Rainbow Ranch Lodge by night. sugarcane juice that they’d prepare for you by cranking a few canes through a hand- Visit ExperienceRainbowRanch.com operated press. We stopped at villages where for all of our packages and specials we bought postcards and Coca-Colas, silk scarves and ornamental elephants. The sun was brilliant and our arms warm. In all the other places we’d been on vacations, we’d always been ready, by the end of a week (or two or three), to leave. Not this time. I yelled into my husband’s ear, so he could hear me through the wind. “I don’t want to go home!” “Me either!” he shouted back. BOAT LAW That night, we brushed our teeth while watching the two tree frogs who’d taken up residence in our bathroom navigate the "/%&340/$0//&--$"3&: mirror above the sink. We couldn’t imag- ."3*5*.&-"8:&34 ine leaving them. In bed, under a soft cloud of mosquito netting, we expressed an intention: to take the beautiful calm we’d */+63&%"54&" found in this magic place home with us. Know your rights. Margot Kahn writes from Seattle.

CALL 1-800-BOATLAW getting there Use Mileage Plan miles to visit OR VISIT Goa, India, which is accessible BOATLAW.COM through Mumbai via partner airlines Air France, American Airlines, British Airways, Delta and KLM Royal Dutch Airlines. For more information or 4&"55-&t#&--*/()".t1035-"/% to enroll in Mileage Plan, go to Helping Injured Seamen and Their Families for Three Decades alaskaair.com or call 800-654-5669.

112 JANUARY 2012 ALASKA AIRLINES MAGAZINE AndersonConnellCary.indd 1 12/13/11 1:01:13 PM