tools of the trade

selecting and using Japanese When it comes to precise cuts and fi ne joinery, these razor-sharp saws can help you get the job done without breaking the bank.

For most tasks, I for a good Western dovetail or designs are, well, from opposite rely on power tools to do the heavy tenon you’ll know that $100 sides of the world. The fi rst thing work. But when you only need to doesn’t go very far. The good news you’ll notice when you pick up a make a few quick cuts, setting up is that there’s a great alternative. Japanese saw is how light it feels a is more work than just Japanese saws are readily avail- in your hand. That’s because the cutting the part with a . able, and a good-quality saw will is so much thinner than its The trouble is, to make hand- only set you back about $40. Western counterpart. On top of tool work possible, you need to WHAT’S THE DIFFERENCE? You can tell that, rather than a carved hard- start with good-quality tools. And just by looking that the Japanese handle a Japanese saw has a if you’ve shopped around recently and Western approaches to saw long, straight handle. This handle

www.Woodsmith.com Page 2 of 5 copyright 2008 August Home Publishing is made from a very light wood, a pull stroke) rather than compres- usually Japanese cypress or cedar sion (on a push stroke). This is why (not bamboo as is commonly the Japanese can be so made thought), and wrapped in cane. much thinner than Western blades. Dozuki TEETH. The next thing you’ll prob- You may also find it easier to ably discover are the razor sharp guide and control a cut by pulling teeth. Even on inexpensive mod- rather than pushing a blade. Once els, the teeth of a Japanese saw are you’ve learned some basic tech- extremely sharp. And when you niques, you’ll find the combination take a closer look, you’ll see that of super-sharp teeth, light weight, they’re shaped very differently and pull-stroke cutting will have than those on a Western saw. you making more accurate hand The drawings at the bottom of saw cuts than ever before. the page shows the differences QUALITY. But that combination of Ryoba between Western and Japanese features only works if the quality crosscut teeth. Japanese crosscut of the steel and manufacturing are teeth have three beveled edges pretty high. And the tradition of rather than two. The third high quality tool making goes back near the tip of the tooth is ground hundreds of years in Japan. That at a very steep angle, making each tradition set the bar very high for tooth like the blade of a knife. even the factory-made tools com- The rip teeth on a Japanese saw monly available in the U.S. today. are very similar to Western teeth. REPLACEABLE BLADES. One of the nice The big difference here is, Japanese features of today’s factory-made saws are designed specifically for saws is the replaceable blade. either hard or . Softwood You’ll appreciate this as you start teeth have a steeper cutting angle. to “unlearn” the push-stroke habit. Kugihiki But the biggest difference in the A damaged or bent blade can be Japanese teeth is that their cutting easily removed and replaced with edge is pointed toward the handle, a new one. On some saws, you meaning the saw will cut on the can even adjust the blade angle, as pull stroke rather than the push shown Figures 2 and 3 below. stroke like a Western saw. SAW TYPES. There are many differ- WHY A PULL CUT? It may seem strange ent types of Japanese saws. The to pull a saw, but if you stop and four saws you see in the margin at think about it, it really makes a right are the ones I use most often lot of sense. The thin metal used for joinery in my shop. We’ll take for saw blades works much better a look at each of these saws indi- Azebiki when the blade is in tension (as in vidually on the following pages.

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www.Woodsmith.com Page 3 of 5 copyright 2008 August Home Publishing Dozuki If you’re ready to give Japanese the cut with the heel saws a try, then a dozuki is the place of the saw on the to start. The stiff supporting spine waste side of the line. over the blade (like that on a West- Hold your thumb ern ) makes it easier to cut against the side of with and a little more forgiving the blade to guide than some of the other saws. the cut. Now pull Most dozuki have crosscut teeth back slowly, without since cutting tenon shoulders is the applying any down- traditional use for a dozuki. (In fact, ward pressure on the word dozuki means shoulder.) the blade. Just let the But you can still use this saw for teeth pull into the fine rip cuts like cutting dovetails. cut naturally. line (as shown in the photo above). DOZUKI CUTTING TECHNIQUE. To get You may want to try pointing your To cut the shoulders for a tenon, see started with a dozuki , you’ll fi rst index finger down the back or side the box below. You’ll find the saw need to lay out the cut. Then, begin of the saw to help track a straight leaves a very smooth cut.

Ryoba Ryoba means “double,” referring to 9" blade. The com- to the two cutting edges. (A single- bination of crosscut edge saw is called a kataba .) A ryoba and rip teeth give typically has rip teeth on one edge the ryoba a versatil- and crosscut teeth on the other. ity you’ll appreciate. Ryoba saws are available in several Once you get used sizes. The larger saws are used for to using one, you’ll construction, and the smaller ones find yourself reach- for cabinetmaking. ing for it often. The The teeth on a ryoba are sized downside of cutting according to blade length — the with a ryoba is that smaller the saw, the more teeth per the teeth on the opposite edge can the dozuki , pointing your index inch. For most general woodwork- leave scratch marks when they fi nger forward helps keep the ing needs, look for a saw with a 7" enter the kerf of a deep cut. blade running true. CUTTING WITH A RYOBA. The larger But using the saw with one hand ryoba saws are usually used for cut- usually works fine for joinery and ting the joinery for timber-framed other small work. In this case, you construction and are designed for can hold the saw like a dozuki . The two-handed use. Even with the easiest way to get started is by smaller saws, you’ll fi nd that slowly pulling the heel of the saw a two-handed grip can be use- across the cut line. Then you can ful at times. The “golf-style” gradually lengthen the stroke as grip shown in the illustration the cut deepens. The ryoba blade is at left can save your arms some thick enough to resist buckling as fatigue if you’re making a lot of you push it back into the cut, but it’s long cuts. With this grip, as with still a good idea to take it slow. www.Woodsmith.com Page 4 of 5 copyright 2008 August Home Publishing Kugihiki Even if you don’t do much hand- The great thing about this saw the return (push-stroke) of a cut. work, you’ll probably want to check is that the crosscut teeth are not set The key here is to take it slow until out a kugihiki . It makes short work (each alternating tooth bent out- you’re comfortable using it. of flush cutting a dowel (as shown ward). That allows you to lay the You may be tempted to hold below right), or a through tenon blade flat on a workpiece and make the thin blade flat with your other (like the one in the illustration). a cut without marring the surface. hand, but that only pushes the Kugihiki means “to cut nails,” USING THE KUGIHIKI . Because the kugi- teeth into the surface. Instead, flex referring to the bamboo spikes used hiki blade is extremely thin (about the blade (as in the photo), and in Japanese temple construction. But .007" at the tip), it’s probably the it will automatically remain flat. there are plenty of applications in toughest of the Japanese saws to Then just pull through the cut and Western-style woodworking. use without bending the blade on you’ll be pleased with the results.

Azebiki The azebiki is a double-edged used for cutting mor- saw with curved rip and crosscut tises, grooves, and even blades. The azebiki is traditionally sliding dovetail joints. The curve of the blade allows you to start a { You might not cut in the middle of a board. a series of light cuts on the layout use the azebiki , All you need to do is scribe a line. Once you’ve established the every day, but layout line and you’re ready kerf, apply a little more pressure it’s great for to cut. The curved blades also using a rocking motion with your those occasions help clear out the arm to deepen the cut. You’ll soon when the task from the kerf of the cut. cut through the board. Clamping demands it. CUTTING TECHNIQUES. To cut a a straight board next to the line mortise in the middle of the helps keep the cut on the mark workpiece, start by making and the saw vertical. W A Modern Revision

Japanese saw-making techniques and tra- For instance, the saw in the photo below that allow the position of the slotted ditions go back hundreds of years, but that has a traditional dozuki blade. But instead blade to be adjusted. Sliding the blade doesn’t mean there hasn’t been a continual of a spine, this saw has a steel bar fit into up toward the bar limits the depth of cut. adaptation of the various designs. the handle. The bar holds two wing nuts This makes it ideal for cutting dovetails.

Scale on end of blade aids Wing nut adjustment in setting depth of cut

Long slot allows wide range of cutting depth

www.Woodsmith.com Page 5 of 5 copyright 2008 August Home Publishing