A BEGINNER’S GUIDE TO

www.ethicalconsumer.org 4 8

Contents

4 Who are we and what are we doing here?

6 What do I get as a subscriber?

8 Ethical 14 explained 12 What should I look out for?

14 Rating companies 14 Environment 16 Animals 17 People 18 19 Positive marks 19 The Ethiscore 20 Company tables 22 explained

22 How we got here

24 You’re not alone

25

26 It can be easy being green

27 Our other services 25

A BEGINNER’S GUIDE 2 £4.25 EC163 Nov/Dec 2016 www.ethicalconsumer.org

Plus Boycotting Brexit Animal in Welcome to Ethical Consumer This booklet introduces you to our magazine and websites and to the concept of shopping ethically. It includes a bit about the philosophy behind what we do and some background to the main issues that we look at. It also gives you some guidance on getting started as an ethical consumer and explains the different ways that you can make a difference when you go shopping. We show you how we rate companies and what other services we provide. There’s also an introduction to our product guides and how you can use them to inform you. This booklet should be a helpful and we suggest that you keep it available for future reference.

More detailed information on all the subjects covered here is also available on our website at www.ethicalconsumer.org

Ethical Consumer A BEGINNER’S GUIDE 3 Who are we and what are we doing here? Ethical Consumer is the UK’s leading alternative consumer magazine and website. We’re also behind the online Corporate Critic database www.corporatecritic.org

n the magazine, we tell you to the magazine and databases, everything you need to know, by consultancy work and by Ifrom the social and environmental from ethically vetted impacts of a product to the ethical companies. records of the company behind it. Our subscriber website contains Our core beliefs over 100 reports with daily-updated We exist to promote: ethical scores or ‘ethiscores’ so you • Universal can find the best overall ethical • Environmental product. Our subscriber website • Why look at also contains detailed information …. By providing information on companies? consumer issues which empowers about the ethical records of Some websites or magazines individuals and organisations to act companies. Using one or more of just look at products, but Ethical ethically in the marketplace. these can help you make Consumer is the only organisation a difference when you go shopping What do we cover? which looks at the companies and ensure that you are able to We look at anything and behind the . After all, isn’t it shop in a way that fits in with your everything, from the everyday better to buy a cruelty-free product own values. products that you’ll find in your from a company that doesn’t History shopping basket each week, to the test its other items on animals, or The magazine and databases big purchases like cars, washing recycled toilet paper from a firm are produced by the Ethical machines and fridges. We also that isn’t cutting down virgin forests Consumer Research Association look at financial products such as for its other ranges? A company- (ECRA). We were founded in mortgages and bank accounts. The based approach allows 1987 and the first magazine magazine also includes the latest to influence decisions company came out in 1989. ECRA is a news on campaigns, human rights, wide. It also highlights those firms not-for-profit, multi- environmental and animal welfare that try and promote themselves co-operative. We’re proud to issues and in-depth features on as ethical, while at the same time be an independent organisation ethical talking points and dilemmas. being involved in activities that and are funded by subscriptions might concern many customers.

A BEGINNER’S GUIDE Ethical Consumer 4 Where does our information come from? As we are a very small organisation, Ethical Consumer does not carry out a lot of primary research. Instead, most of our information comes from previously published sources. These sources include publications and reports by campaign groups like Oxfam, and War on Want. We look at the daily newspapers, public records on pollution and health & safety prosecutions and use directories on the arms and nuclear industries. We also request information directly from the companies on their environmental policies and reporting, and other policies, such as their attitude towards and to workers in their supply factories. What gives us the right to tell you what to do? At Ethical Consumer, our aim is to give you the information so that you can make your own decisions when you go shopping and buy products according to your own priorities and principles.

Ethical Consumer A BEGINNER’S GUIDE 5 What do I get as a subscriber?

Your subscription to Ethical Consumer

buys you the following:

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EC160 May/June 2016 May/June EC160 £4.25 Six issues of Ethical Consumer magazine in print or online

Our bi-monthly magazine will help you build up a comprehensive library of the ethics behind a broad range of consumer products. Each year we aim to cover a variety of different, every-day items from coffee This little to chocolate and washing powder to nappies. We also look at some of bigger piggy purchases such as fridges, cars or washing machines. With the most popular and didn’t go common products, we aim to update our to market magazine reports every two years. We name the most ethical As well as our unique reports, we also veggie bangers & burgers publish in-depth features and also have pages covering consumer boycotts and news on all things ethical. You’ll get full access online to an electronic Product guides to: version of the latest magazine, as well Cooking oil, Meat-free burgers & sausages, Rice as our archive of back issues. These also Plus: Supermarkets update & Veg box schemes include live web links. If you prefer not to receive a paper magazine, you can just have an online subscription which gives you access to the electronic version of the magazine in PDF or ‘flip book’ form.

A BEGINNER’S GUIDE Ethical Consumer 6 School & library subscriptions The subscription package is an ideal resource for teachers of citizenship and business studies as well as many other subjects. If you are a teacher and wish to use the site as a resource and would like more than one computer to be logged in at a time, please get in touch. To action your upgrade, we need the name of Access to all the The website also allows you to your school or college and the lesson information on our customise the ratings. For most you plan to use our information of the time in the magazine, in. We can allow a maximum of 30 website all issues are weighted users to access the site at the same equally, giving a product a time. Please give us up to ten days to Our website has special, total ‘ethiscore’ based on the make this change, which we offer simplified score tables for over information from our database. at no extra cost to you. Only one set 150 different product guides. of saved settings is permitted with However, you can change the These are accompanied by the multiple users. This means that if way that this score is calculated original article, Best Buys and one user customises the ratings, the by customising the ratings with direct links to ethical retailers. scores will be changed for all users. our interactive sliders according The score tables are directly For more information give us a call to your own personal ethics. linked to our database so that on 0161 226 2929. when information about a As a subscriber you can also company or product is changed see a detailed ratings table and you can click on a name or added, this is reflected online Gift subscriptions within twenty-four hours. This to see the stories we have used to rate it. You can also explore means that the website holds If you know someone who you details about the company the most up to date information think would be interested in our behind it. on all the products covered in subscription package, then why not our magazine. buy them a year’s gift subscription? Call us on 0161 226 2929 to order.

Ethical Consumer A BEGINNER’S GUIDE 7 Reading beyond the labels An introduction to being an ethical consumer

What is ethical cost us dearly in terms of landfill, consumerism? chemicals leaching into our soil and in their environmentally destructive Put very simply, Ethical production. It could be a human Consumerism means adopting cost. Cheap clothing produced a different perspective on our in East Asia or Central America disposable income. Instead of comes at a cost to those making seeing as a means to the clothes, earning barely enough buying us status, luxury goods or to survive. Factory farmed animals, an improved quality of , we also need to consider our money meanwhile, may make cheap as a vote which we use every meat but it comes at a price of the time we go shopping. Buying quality of life of the animal. When cheap clothes which have been it comes to supermarkets, the cost made in is a vote can be to our high streets and for worker exploitation. Buying local shops. Considering ethical a gas guzzling 4X4, especially if issues when we go shopping you are a city dweller, is a vote means taking impacts like this into for . Even small, account. everyday purchases, such as coffee, Putting the pressure on tea, breakfast cereal, bread or It’s not just the links between the bin-bags are a vote for something. product and its impact that ethical Favouring organic produce is a vote for environmental sustainability consumers need to consider, but and Fairtrade, a vote for human the activities of the company rights. behind the brand. A small number of multinational companies own a Taking other costs large proportion of our favourite into account brands. Many of these companies In the UK, the cheapness of our are involved in a range of unethical food, clothing and electrical activities. By withdrawing our appliances can make headline custom from those companies, news. Yet it’s important to we can let them know that we remember that while we might don’t approve of those activities be saving money, there’s always a – especially if, at the same time, cost somewhere down the line. It we let them know WHY we’re could be an environmental cost - withdrawing our custom. cheap, throwaway electrical goods

A BEGINNER’S GUIDE Ethical Consumer 8 Reading beyond the labels

Using the power in you could make. This is where our wallets Ethical Consumer comes in. By pulling together and evaluating As consumers, we have a great all the different kinds of advice deal of power in our pockets and and information that we get from we’ve already effected change. campaigners and companies, We just need to look at the we can present clear conclusions example of how the supermarkets about the best options. It’s and food companies responded important to remember that small on the issue of genetically steps can lead to bigger ones, modified food. The threat of and it’s better to take a few small withdrawing our custom can, and steps than no steps at all. Every already has, changed company vote counts. Awareness of global policy. poverty, animal welfare and green Yet, even if it doesn’t change issues are at an all time high. If a company’s ways, your choices we can carry this awareness into are no less worthwhile, especially our shopping basket, we can all if you are supporting smaller, work together to help make the more ethical companies at the world a better place, and make same time. And happily, despite sure that companies start treating mergers and takeovers of smaller it, and us, with more respect. brands, there are still plenty While money may make the world of alternatives and a growing go round, deciding how we spend number of smaller companies our money might just save it. which are as concerned with making the world a better place What is ethical? as they are with making profits. There’s no one universal definition This is the positive side of ethical of ‘ethical’, but broadly speaking consumerism. It is just as much when Ethical Consumer talks about supporting the ‘good’ about an ethical product, we companies and products as it is mean something which has not withdrawing our support from the harmed or exploited humans, ‘bad’ ones. animals or the environment. Sometimes, we would go further Making your vote count and say that an ethical product It’s often easy to get overwhelmed or company is one that actively by the scale of the problem and benefits humans, animals or the by the number of changes that environment.

Ethical Consumer A BEGINNER’S GUIDE 9 Four types of ethical buying Positive buying. This means favouring particular What to prioritise ethical products, such as energy when I go shopping? saving lightbulbs. Obviously, we all know that Negative purchasing. price is important when we go This means avoiding products shopping. But to be an Ethical that you disapprove of, such as Consumer, you need to start also important to realise battery eggs or gas-guzzling cars. taking other factors into account that sometimes, there is Company based purchasing when you buy things. There are, no one right answer. This means targeting a business of course, many different issues as a whole and avoiding all the to consider. Just like religion, What issues are products made by one company. ethics aren’t universal, and what important to me? For example, the Nestlé may be important to one person, You want to start to try has targeted all its brands and may not be as important to and shop a bit more subsidiaries in a bid to get the another. ethically, but don’t know company to change the way it where to start? Your first markets its baby milk formula Not black and white step is to decide what across the world. Sometimes the choices aren’t issues you are most concerned Fully screened approach always straightforward – is it about. You might decide that This means looking both at better to buy organic vegetables one area or issue (such as climate companies and at products and flown in from overseas, or non- change or animal welfare) is of evaluating which product is the organic vegetables from a local utmost importance to you, or you most ethical overall. This is exactly farmer? In these cases, you often might decide that all are equally what we do in the magazine and have to decide which is more important. Everyone’s priorities the Best Buys that we recommend important to you right now. are different. You can then use are essentially the most ethical, We often discuss these kinds of our tables to check out which ‘fully-screened’ products that we dilemmas in the magazine, and companies have received criticism can find. where we can, give guidance. It’s in those areas.

A BEGINNER’S GUIDE Ethical Consumer 10 city. In these cases, we’ll also try and recommend a more widely available alternative as well. Very occasionally, you’ll find that companies that score well on our tables from the chaff for those may not be best buys, while consumers who want to those which look like they avoid big companies which have bad ethical records might have dubious ethical records. be recommended. This can This is where the tables in happen for a variety of reasons. the magazine, or our online Sometimes, companies that The difference between databases, come in. You can have made the most progress see which companies own ethically have been under an ethical product and the spotlight more and so an ethical company each brand, and their ethical record across all the different have attracted more criticisms This is where it gets a little categories. To help you find under our categories. This is more complicated. When the most ethical product, most common with clothing Ethical Consumer first we also have special product manufacturers and shops. started, things were a lot sustainability columns on our We can also often find that clearer because, in the main, table. These columns let you companies haven’t attracted companies who made ethical know which products have any criticisms but haven’t really products did so because they positive qualities – such as made any positive steps either. had belief in those issues. being fairtrade, organic or Another time when this might These days, it seems that made from recycled paper. happen is when we consider everyone has jumped on the a product to have been made bandwagon. This isn’t necessarily Best Buys particularly ethically, in which a bad thing. It’s encouraging that We consider all the issues, case we’ll recommend it, even the big companies are making from company behaviour to if a company has criticisms in ethical products and investing in product sustainability, and try our ratings. Once they’ve been ethical brands. Some products to recommend as many best awarded ‘best buy’ status, might be considered ‘ethical’ buys as we can. Sometimes, ECRA may invite them to use – such as an organic t-shirt - but these are made by smaller our ‘Best Buy’ label which is the company that owns the brand companies and their products designed to help you easily might not be. This can make it may not be that easy to identify recommended products a bit harder to sort the wheat find if you don’t live in a big when you’re out shopping.

Ethical Consumer A BEGINNER’S GUIDE 11 What should I look for when I shop? At the moment there isn’t one universal ‘ethical’ label, although companies that receive ‘best buys’ in our magazine may be invited to use our logo on those products. The main labels to look for are becoming more and more widespread. These are:

Organic Fairtrade Fairtrade symbol is found on over 3000 UK products from coffees The jury may The Fairtrade to flowers. Find out more from still be out as mark is an www.fairtrade.org.uk to whether independent organic foods label which Vegetarian Society are demonstrably guarantees better for your health, but that disadvantaged producers organic crops are far superior for in the third world are getting our environment. a better deal than they would improves and is more do otherwise. For a product to beneficial for local wildlife. It display the mark, it must meet isn’t just edible crops that benefit special Fairtrade standards, which This symbol, licensed by the from organic farming. Cotton is are the same all over the world. Vegetarian Society, tells you a major consumer of , These standards are inspected that a product is suitable for using around a quarter of the and independently assessed. vegetarians. It is found on over world’s insecticides and more Those producing Fairtrade 6400 products in the UK. The than 10% of the pesticides. products receive a minimum Ethical Consumer ‘best buy’ logo use isn’t just detrimental price which covers the cost of is only available for products to the environment but also has sustainable production. This is which have received a best buy in serious health implications for because these prices can often our magazine. It was registered as those working with these crops. fluctuate on the open market, a Trade Mark in September 2007. Organic products, including meaning that sometimes, Like other labels it should make organic clothing, are more readily especially with commodities such life easier for people who want to available than ever before. as coffee or chocolate, producers consume more responsibly. Unlike Find out more from the Soil can get paid less for their crop other labels, it’s more holistic. A Association 0117 314 5000 than it costs them to produce it. product displaying the best buy www.soilassociation.org As well as the set minimum, with logo will have been produced the Fairtrade logo, producers also by a company with the best receive an extra premium which environmental, social and animal is invested in social or economic ratings, and the product itself development projects. The should also sustainable too.

A BEGINNER’S GUIDE Ethical Consumer 12 Things to think about • Consume Less Shopping ethically isn’t enough. We also need to reduce the amount of stuff that we buy, use and throw away. Before you go shopping ask yourself a few simple questions – do I need this? Will I use this? What’s going to happen to it when I’ve finished with it? Vegan or buy recycled products. You’ll • Get campaigning find the FSC logo on a range Society It’s important to look at whether of products including garden This symbol campaigning politically is also furniture, shelving and even toilet is licensed by necessary to achieve a particular paper. Visit www.fsc-uk.info for a the Vegan set of goals. In our product reports list of FSC certified products. Society and means that a product we almost always suggest contacts is suitable for vegans. A vegan is The for taking additional political someone who in addition to not Leaping action. This action can include eating any meat, fish or poultry, Bunny signing online petitions, contacting doesn’t eat or use other animal This ‘bunny’ your local MP or other politicians, products, including eggs, dairy logo is awarded attending demonstrations or products, honey, leather and fur. by Cruelty Free International getting involved in more direct Find out more from the Vegan and is found on cosmetics and action campaigns. Society 0121 523 1730 cleaning products www.vegansociety.com which haven’t been tested • Shop locally on animals. In order to be Our local shops are in decline, and approved companies have our high streets are becoming a sea Forest very strict guidelines to follow, of chain stores and supermarkets. rather than just issuing a policy Shopping locally can reduce car use Council statement. The standards require and support local communities too. Old-growth forests companies to prove their claims You might find it harder to find around the world, and to undergo independent more ethical brands – but many from the in Brazil to through the supply chain shopkeepers are responsive to ancient forests in Indonesia, to make sure that the criteria requests and you might find that continue to be logged, often are met throughout. For more you can persuade them to stock illegally. The best way to ensure information visit your favourite ethical products. that a wood or paper product www.gocrueltyfree.org has come from a sustainable • Ethical Money source is to look out for the It’s not just where you spend your Forest Stewardship Council’s logo money that counts, it’s where you put it too, in banks, investments or savings accounts. We cover money issues and products in the magazine. • and second-hand The Ethical Consumer also You don’t always have to buy has a ‘Best Buy’ label which is new. Recycled and second-hand available for products which products save precious resources have received a best buy in and reduce pressure on landfill our magazine. sites.

Ethical Consumer A BEGINNER’S GUIDE 13 Rating Companies in Ethical Consumer

We split all the criticisms we receive into five main headings: Environment, Human Rights, , Politics and Positive marks. Then we further split those areas down into different categories which we look at in this section.

Environment environmental reporting, nuclear There are lots of things you can power, climate change, pollution & do to have a positive impact toxics and habitats & resources. upon the environment, or at Environmental Reporting least to minimise your ‘ecological We’ve been asking companies for footprint’. In our features, we try their environmental policies and to include tips on how you can reports for years. Initially, if they reduce your overall responded at all, they provided as well as guide you to the best us with vague statements about environmental choices out there. ‘minimising impacts’. These days, That can mean favouring an many companies produce much A++ rated electrical appliance, more detailed reports looking or finding a shampoo with the at precise impacts and setting least packaging. Because the goals for reducing them. We The full technical definition for ‘environment’ is a very broad think that all companies need to each category is found on our area, when we look at company be looking ahead and making activities we split up the criticisms realistic reductions across all areas website in the Subscriber Area. into five different categories; of their business. We also think

A BEGINNER’S GUIDE Ethical Consumer 14 low mileage per gallon) will be environmental destruction or criticised here, as will companies exploitation of habitats and making misleading claims about resources – whether it’s pollution climate change. incidents which kill off marine environments or the use of Pollution and Toxics trees which haven’t come from Pollution isn’t just about big sustainable sources. It’s more oil spills or chemical disasters important than ever to conserve like Bhopal. There are tens of existing environments and prevent thousands of synthetic chemicals the further extinction of plants, in regular use in a wide range animals, birds and fish. If you of products from shampoo want to make sure your shopping to computers. Many of these doesn’t threaten environments, chemicals can pollute both the look out for FSC certified wood environment and our bodies. and paper, buy recycled paper, and Some chemicals are known as avoid products with palm oil in bio-accumulative, which means where you can. If you eat fish, only that they can stay stored in our buy fish that has been certified by body fat for years. Some chemicals the Marine Stewardship Council. – like PVC – have a heavy toll on Palm Oil that companies need to have the environment, not just when Palm oil is an ingredient used these targets and reports verified they’re being produced, but during in thousands of products from by independent organisations. their lifetime and then later on, chocolate to shampoo. However, The only time we ‘let companies when they’re disposed of. Many of the mass production of palm oil is off’ is if they are small or medium these chemicals have been singled devastating the world’s rainforests sized enterprises aiming to out by campaigners like WWF as well as being linked to human provide environmental or social and as particularly rights abuses. alternatives, and only if they have a worrying. Ethical Consumer Our palm oil ranking, which we turnover of less than £8 million. therefore includes the use of such developed with the Rainforest chemicals in our pollution column. Foundation, ranks any companies Climate Change Some companies are phasing out operating in the following sectors: Climate change is no longer the use of chemicals but we need theoretical. It’s with us now. We cosmetics, household cleaning to keep the pressure up on those caused it and it’s up to us to do products and food. that are lagging behind. Pesticides something about it. We all need Companies able to demonstrate and herbicides also come under to do our bit for the environment. a fully certified supply chain for this category. Our best buys will Some sectors contribute all palm ingredients used by the always, where possible, be free of particularly heavily to climate whole company group, and who harmful chemicals and so will be change. These include the airline also declare suppliers and volumes the healthier alternative, for our and oil industries. Companies will receive a best rating. bodies, our children and for the making products that have a Companies that are palm oil free higher contribution to climate environment. – using neither palm oil, palm change than other products in Habitats and Resources kernel oil nor palm derivatives - will the sector (such as cars with This category looks to specific also receive a best rating.

Some of the green campaign groups working on these issues: Greenpeace Friends of the Earth WWF Marine Conservation Society www.greenpeace.org.uk www.foe.co.uk www.wwf.org.uk www.mcsuk.org 020 7865 8100 020 7490 1555 01483 426333 01989 566017

Ethical Consumer A BEGINNER’S GUIDE 15 Animals Factory Farming Concern with how animals are Much of modern farming is farmed and slaughtered has industrialised and intensive meant that the farming industry and can often be termed has made some efforts to ‘factory farming’ because of the improve standards over the past philosophy of mass production. two decades. It has also meant With this type of farming, many that more of us have become animals are crammed together vegetarian or vegan. Even if you in the smallest possible space can’t go the whole hog, forgoing and their health and wellbeing one meat meal a week will make suffer as a result. Animal rights a difference. If you can’t, or don’t campaigners argue that if we want to, avoid meat altogether, have to farm animals, then we choose organic meat, as organic should be treating with them with farming has higher animal welfare compassion and respect and that standards. Contact the Vegetarian these values are incompatible or Vegan Society for more with factory farming methods. information about how to make Companies which sell factory changes. Vegetarian Society www. farmed meat, or products with vegsoc.org 0161 925 2000 Vegan battery eggs, will be criticised in Society: www.vegansociety.com this category. Organic farming 0121 523 1730. in general is much better for animals and so companies with Further information on Our animal columns are divided organic meat and dairy products animal issues can be into three main areas. These are: are not criticised in this column. obtained from: Animal Testing Compassion in World Farming is Animal Aid In the 1980s, animal working towards improving the www.animalaid.org.uk experimentation became a ‘hot of farmed animals. Contact 01732 364546 topic’ as cosmetics companies it on www.ciwf.org to find out testing their products on animals more. 01483 521950 Campaign Against suddenly became a big ‘no no’. the Fur Trade Other Animal Rights Even nowadays, the testing of www.caft.org.uk Companies that have been products and ingredients on 0845 330 7955 accused or prosecuted for cruelty animals continues, despite the fact to animals are criticised here. International Fund that it’s outlawed (for cosmetics Farmers or producers of organic for Animal Welfare and cosmetic ingredients) in this meat will also receive marks www.ifaw.org country. Companies that test here to enable those consumers 0207 587 6700 products on animals, or have wishing to avoid any company an inadequate policy on animal involved in animal exploitation PETA testing, are criticised here. Other to be able to make that choice. www.peta.org.uk products that also get tested on Also found here are activities that 020 7357 9229 animals are household products might lead to animal suffering and pet food. We also include – such as zoos and circuses, Uncaged animal testing for medical or using animals to advertise www.uncaged.co.uk products in this column. To find products. It also includes the use 0114 272 2220 out more about the arguments of slaughterhouse by-products, against animal testing, contact such as leather or gelatine.This Viva! the BUAV (British Union for the column therefore brings together www.viva.org.uk Abolition of Vivisection) on animal welfare and animal rights 0117 944 1000 www.buav.org 020 7700 4888 concerns.

A BEGINNER’S GUIDE Ethical Consumer 16 People most criticisms for workers’ rights Many of the products that we abuses. This is of course an extremely buy are manufactured overseas broad area and we’ve split it up Irresponsible Marketing in factories which may not even into five different categories. This column highlights companies be owned by the company that have marketed their products Human Rights itself. Even so, we think that the in a way that has been criticised In this column, we include companies ought to be responsible for causing physical harm, or companies which have subsidiaries for the kinds of conditions those is detrimental to health. The or operations in countries which workers find themselves in, so most famous company that has we call ‘oppressive regimes’. we ask all companies sourcing consistently been criticised in this This list of countries is updated from overseas to supply us with area is Nestle which has been every few years by us, taking a ‘supply chain policy’. This is a condemned for the way that it into account research by a document set out by a company markets its baby milk products. It’s number of different human rights detailing how the workers in their not the only one to use unsavoury organisations. We last updated supply factories must be treated. practices to promote its baby milk the list in 2006 using research Like environmental policies, these products, though it is one of the from Human Rights Watch, War used to be documents with broad most persistent. To find out more on Want, Survival International, statements about “abiding by visit www.babymilkaction.org Amnesty International and the country laws”. Nowadays, the 01223 464420. Other examples International Confederation of supply chain policy can be a of irresponsible marketing include Free Trade Unions. Also in this sophisticated document outlining drug companies which have been column are criticisms relating lots of different conditions and criticised for putting products on directly to human rights abuses may also include results of factory the market even after negative – such as forcing people off . Companies which are results. their land to build a pipeline or members of ‘multi-stakeholder hiring security services which initiatives’, such as the UK’s ETI Armaments have perpetuated human rights (Ethical Trading Initiative) have This column not only includes abuses. Pornography distributors to abide by the ETI’s own code. companies that supply weaponry or publishers also appear in this Companies making certified to the army, but also those column. Fairtrade products will receive a supplying any goods or services to top rating from us in this category. the military (though the severity Workers’ Rights Unfortunately, the existence of of the rating is different!). The In 1911 a fire in a garment factory a good code doesn’t mean that sale of handguns is also included in New York killed 500 workers. it’s being adhered to, and we in this column, which is why you They were working in inhumane, can find huge contradictions, might find a famous US owned unhealthy conditions and poorly so that companies with the best supermarket receiving a bad paid. You’d think, almost 100 policies sometimes receive the rating here. years later, that things might have improved, but workers worldwide are still subject to Campaign groups working on human rights issues include: conditions. In April 2013, the Amnesty International War on Want Rana Plaza factory in Bangladesh www.amnesty.org.uk www.waronwant.org collpased killing 1,132. 020 7033 1500 020 7549 0555 In this category, we include all Christian Aid types of worker abuses – whether World Development www.christian-aid.org.uk it’s being forced to work over 60 Movement 020 7620 4444 hours a week, low wages, cases of www.wdm.org.uk harassment or a company ignoring Oxfam 0207 820 4900 health & safety legislation. www.oxfam.org.uk 0300 200 1300

Ethical Consumer A BEGINNER’S GUIDE 17 Politics Our fourth area is called politics. Controversial Technologies This column covers , Genetic Engineering and nanotechnology. While some argue that all three technologies pose risks to humans and the environment, for others the issues are less of a concern. Boycott Call Subscribers will be able to click Companies may have on the dots on the expanded boycotts called against score tables on the website to them for lots of different read more detail about what reasons. At Ethical a particular company is being Consumer, we report criticised for. on all the boycotts we Under Nuclear Power, companies receive which have a will be marked down for being registered headquarters. involved in managing nuclear We don’t necessarily power plants or providing services endorse all of the to the nuclear power industry. boycotts which we Those energy companies where report. Some campaign more than 5% of their energy groups think that mix comes from nuclear power boycotts aren’t a good will also lose marks under this idea in case a company category. withdraws its business Under Genetic Engineering, from a factory overseas, companies will be marked causing lots of workers down if they are involved in the to lose their livelihoods. manufacture or sale of non- Others believe they medical products likely to contain can be very effective. GMOs (genetically modified We think it’s up to you organisms); lack of a clear where you spend your company wide GMO free policy or money. publicly support the use of GMOs in non-medical products. Those Political Activity involved in the following: the non- We think that companies medical genetic modification of have too much influence over plants or animals; gene patenting; governments through lobby Anti Social Finance and xenotransplantation will groups or donating to political Some companies avoid paying also receive criticism under this parties themselves. This column is , but make huge profits. category. for companies that donate money Others have been criticised for Nanotechnology is controversial to political parties, or to groups fixing prices, insider trading or because it remains unclear what that lobby political parties or to paying bribes. We also include long-term effects many nano- companies involved in persuading ‘excessive director’s pay’ over £1 particles – used in a range of governments and institutions, million under this section. Why? products from suncreams to through international lobbying Well, just because we think it’s tennis balls – will have on humans organisations, to change policy. unfair for directors to receive and the environment. such large payouts.

A BEGINNER’S GUIDE Ethical Consumer 18 Positive marks Product sustainability attributes (up to a maximum of 1). For years, Ethical Consumer This column rates the product Companies cannot score below magazine’s ratings were all about itself. Positive marks are zero. Because of the way that we the negatives. We always figured awarded for a range of different score positive product attributes, that the good news can always sustainability areas including it’s unusual for a product to score be found elsewhere. However, in organic products, fairtrade more than about 16 or 17 points. recent years, we’ve decided that products, good energy efficiency The maximum a company can ratings, or products certified as it’s worth rewarding companies score (not taking into account vegan or vegetarian. for making a positive difference any product details) is 15. Broadly and so we introduced some The Ethiscore speaking the guidelines to reading positive ratings too. The Ethiscore is Ethical ethiscores are as follows: Company Ethos Consumer’s unique numerical Above 15: excellent. This Back in the 1990s, ethical rating system. The rating, out of product is likely to be ethically products tended to be made by 20, means consumers can easily made by an ethical company ethical companies. These days identify the most ethical product 11 – 15: average it’s not so easy to tell what an from a given list. It is a simple ’ethical’ company is, just by the calculation which is based on the 6 – 10: below average products that it makes. This number and types of criticisms 0 – 5: poor column rewards those companies we have received on an individual However, it’s worth bearing in which demonstrate an ethos company. All companies start mind that some companies just committed to sustainability across with 14 points, and have a point their whole business. Included deducted for each full mark they haven’t attracted any criticisms are companies with not-for-profit would receive on the tables that from campaigners and so could trading structures, fully vegan we print in the magazine. We also receive a relatively high ethiscore, companies, and those which add points for positive product without being particularly ‘ethical’ only sell organic or fairly traded attributes (up to a maximum in their outlook or activities. products. of 5) and for positive company

Ethical Consumer A BEGINNER’S GUIDE 19 Company tables explained A unique feature of Ethical Consumer is our Product Guides which give our readers the lowdown on a particular product or service. It could be everyday products such as bread, toothpaste, toilet paper or coffee, or larger purchases like cars or washing machines. The table is intended to show, at a glance, which companies own which brands and what areas they have been criticised in. In order to make it simple for consumers, the brands and companies with the highest scores will be at the top. Those with the lowest will be at the bottom.

Environment Animals People Politics +ve USING THE TABLES USING THE TABLES Ethiscore: the higher Positive ratings (+ve): the score, the better the • Company Ethos: company across the criticism = full mark, categories. e = half mark. H = worst rating, E h = middle rating, • Product Sustainability: empty = best rating Maximum of five positive (no criticisms). marks.

BRAND (out of 20) Ethiscore Environmental Reporting Climate Change Pollution & Toxics Habitats & Resources Palm Oil Animal Testing Factory Farming Animal Rights Human Rights Workers’ Rights Supply Chain Management Irresponsible Marketing Arms & Military Supply Controversial Technologies Boycott Call Political Activity Anti-Social Finance Company Ethos Product Sustainability COMPANY GROUP

Green People [O, V] 15.5 h h E 2 Desford Holdings Kingfisher [V] 15 h e 0.5 Rainbow Wholefoods Logodent, Sante [O, V] 13.5 H h h H e 1.5 Logocos Naturkosmetik AG A.Vogel Dentaforce [V] 12.5 H h H E 0.5 Bioforce AG Urtekram [V, O] 12.5 H h H h H e 1.5 Midsona Weleda [V] 12.5 H h h h E 0.5 Weleda AG A.Vogel Echinacea 12 H h H E Bioforce AG Lavera [O, V] 12 H H h H h 2 Laverana Gmbh & Co KG

Lush tabs & powder [V] 12 H h H h h E 1 Lush Cosmetics Ltd Lavera [O] 11 H H h H h 1 Laverana Gmbh & Co KG Blanx 9 H H H H H Coswell SpA/delta pronatura Arm & Hammer, Pearl Drops 8 H H H H H h h Church & Dwight Co Inc Clinomyn 7.5 h H H h h H H H Li & Fung Ltd JASON [Vg] 7 H h h H H h h H h H 0.5 Hain Celestial Group Inc Theramed 7 h H h H H H h h H Henkel AG & Co KgaA Euthymol, Listerine 6.5 h h h H H h H h H H Johnson & Johnson Aquafresh, Corsodyl 5 h H H H H H H h H H GlaxoSmithKline Plc Macleans, Sensodyne 5 h H H H H H H h H H GlaxoSmithKline Plc Oral-B 4.5 h H h H H H H H h H H Procter & Gamble Co. Tom’s of Maine [Vg] 4 h h h H H H H h H H h H H 0.5 Colgate-Palmolive Colgate 3.5 h h h H H H H h H H h H H Colgate-Palmolive Mentadent, Signal White 3.5 H h H H H H H h h h h H H Unilever Plc Superdrug 2.5 H H H h H H H h H H H h H CK Hutchinson Holdings Ltd Boots 2 h h H h H H H H H H H h H H WBA Investments LLC

O] = organic [V] = vegan [Vg] = vegetarian See all the research behind these ratings together on www.ethicalconsumer.org. Free to subscribers.

Marks Brand names Full circles represent the worst level of involvement in each Within the guides we try to include category. Empty circles represent lesser criticisms and a blank the brands which have the majority space indicates that we haven’t found any criticisms. If you of the market share, plus include want to find out exactly which criticisms are behind the a few of the ethical alternatives. marks, you can click through to these details on the score However, we can’t include every tables on the website or download our in-depth Research brand on the market – there just Reports. All this information is also held in our Corporate isn’t the space. Critic online database (www.corporatecritic.org).

A BEGINNER’S GUIDE Ethical Consumer 20 Companies which we rate differently Most companies are rated on their own records but we rate two sectors slightly differently; retailers and banks/financial m nsu er institutions. Retailers don’t just get rated on their own records, o .o c r l g The brands in this a box are eligible to

but we also look at what products they stock. Consequently, c i

h t apply to use the Best

a retailer which sells non-organic meat will get a mark in e Y Buy Label on their B U the factory farming column, and one that sells animal tested ES T B products. Best Buys are those cosmetics will receive a mark in the animal testing column, even brands that score at least middle for supply chain, are organic though the retailer itself might have a good animal testing policy. and/or vegan or vegetarian and get Similarly when we look at banks and financial institutions, we our best rating for animal testing. Green People toothpastes are all also try and look at where their money goes. So, a bank that organic and vegan (apart from Fennel invests in the oil industry will receive a climate change criticism, and Propolis). Kingfisher and Lush are all vegan. and one that gives money to finance environmentally damaging Some of Weleda’s are vegan. projects will receive criticisms for that. If we know a bank has a If you want fluoride toothpaste, Kingfisher is the best buy, the other financial relationship with another company with criticisms on three brands being fluoride free. our database, it may inherit that company’s criticisms. 15.5 Best Buys

The Best Buy advice is a summary of the report. Best Buy brands 15 have the lowest social and environmental impacts and are made by the companies with the cleanest records. We recommend one or more overall Best Buys, and a ‘best of the widely available brands’ in acknowledgement that the smaller brands are often harder to 12 obtain. 12.5 We may also recommend ‘environmental’ best buys for products that will have the lowest environmental impact. These may not necessarily be made by companies which are the most ethical across ALSO RECOMMENDED all areas. A. Vogel, Logodent, Sante, Urtekram Companies recommended as Best Buys are eligible and Lavera. to apply to use our Best Buy Label on their products. If they are not eligible, their brands may only be listed in the ‘Recommended’ section.

Company group In this column we list the ultimate holding company (UHC), the top level of corporate ownership or ‘parent’ company, Our research which may often be different from the brand owner. For Ethical Consumer has been creating instance, the Nokia brand name is owned by Microsoft a database of ethically-related data Corporation. This is therefore the UHC and appears in on companies since 1989. We now this column. It is important to note that the marks on the have more than 90,000 abstracts table represent those of the company group as a whole, so on nearly 30,000 companies. Our where Nokia is listed on the table the marks refer not just information sources are varied and to Nokia but to Microsoft and/or other companies owned international. We reference reports, by Microsoft Corporation. The exception to this is under campaign group publications, the “Environmental Reporting” category where marks can directories and public records. We refer to the specific subsidiary’s environment report and the also request information directly from “Supply Chain Policy” category. When one company buys companies on a number of issues. another, the new company is deemed to have inherited the Individuals or groups can access a past record of the other, unless there is clear evidence that version of the database online at the take-over has seen a change in policy and practice. www.corporatecritic.org

Ethical Consumer A BEGINNER’S GUIDE 21 , how we got here

By Rob Harrison, editor and co-founder of Ethical Consumer. guides became international best sellers on the wave of environmental consciousness rom a boycott of sugar by West developed increasingly which swept the globe. The fact anti-slavery protesters, to sophisticated that global environmental crises FChinese campaigns against and boycott campaigns against like ozone depletion could be American goods in 1905, calls companies operating in clearly linked to individual acts for consumers to act on political . Coupled with retailer such as a choice of hairspray issues can be found throughout boycotts in South Africa itself, also meant that broader ideas of history. Early trade unionists in the these peaceful but powerful forms consumer responsibility could no USA produced ‘best-buy’ lists of of direct action are now widely longer be ignored. unionised companies, and landless acknowledged to have been It was during this time that peasants in Ireland first coined instrumental in hastening the the Ethical Consumer project the word ‘boycott’ in a campaign regime’s demise. began life. We believed that against oppressive landowners as The late 1980s saw a real Ethical Consumerism addressed far back as 1880. explosion of interest in the political a structural flaw in In the 1970s and 80s, power of consumers choosing which, in a global market driven consumers and investors in the to act ethically. Green consumer by profit, rewarded the least

A BEGINNER’S GUIDE Ethical Consumer 22 ethical producers and punished testing within three years. becoming less and less tenable, the best. This, we believed, was a The most graphic example of making ethical purchasing an even system failure which we wanted consumer power in the 1990s more effective tool for change. to address, and we believed that occurred when the Shell was it was essential to change the forced into a dramatic climbdown A force for change culture of ‘price-only buying’. If the over its decision to dispose of Despite, or perhaps because majority of consumers were asking the Brent Spa oil platform in the of, all the changes that have more questions than just ‘how North Sea. Although it denied taken place since our inception much is it?’, then the tendency to that consumer pressure affected in 1989, our core purpose here reward the most efficient employer its decision, it cannot have been at Ethical Consumer looks like it of simply melted away. coincidental that sales in some will remain as relevant as ever. German outlets had dropped Since issue 1 we have argued Globalisation by 70% during the boycott that for individual citizens to be Since World War II, more of what campaign. we buy has been produced or In the UK, consumers’ effective political actors, they manufactured overseas. At ECRA resounding rejection of genetically need good quality intelligence we argue that this ‘globalisation of modified foods in 1999 resulted in about which corporations are production’ is one of the primary a number of large multinationals really their friends and which causes of the huge growth of also rejecting the technology are their enemies. Whether the ethical . within their UK products, and next ten years brings forth a Globalisation means that people expanding out into organic nuclear era, more biotechnology concerned about social or products instead. and nanotechnology, or simply environmental issues can no Since we first started Ethical continued gross injustice, we longer, in many cases, just lobby Consumer, there has been a real cannot lobby effectively for change their own government. The UK change in public understanding if we are simultaneously funding government simply has no power of the damaging behaviours to ban child labour in Pakistan of big business. This has partly our most pernicious opponents on or prevent whaling by Icelandic emerged through high-profile anti- our trips to the shops. fishing boats. Because of this, globalisation (now better known For as long as markets remain campaign groups concerned about as global justice) protests and globalised, consumers will need such issues have been increasingly from high profile films and books to look beyond price to prevent looking for active consumers to such as “Supersize Me” and “The the most malign corporations help put pressure directly on the Corporation”. from taking the driving seat and companies involved. Pressure from ‘capturing’ democratic groups such as Christian Aid or Greenwash? governments along the way. The Greenpeace have been the key Since the late nineties, many three-quarters of consumers who players in the movement towards companies have begun to market ethical consumerism. their products as ethical and tell pollsters that they care about begun to develop, sometimes ethical issues enough to purchase The growth of consumer power sophisticated, corporate social ethical products wield huge Another reason behind the responsibility (CSR) strategies. amounts of spending power. So growth of ethical consumerism is Often such claims have rightly even though you may think that as that these campaign approaches been pilloried as greenwash and an individual you don’t have much have actually been extraordinarily met with cynicism. Even so, there power over company behaviour, effective. When campaign groups is still a significant difference it’s important to remember opposed to animal testing began between the best and worst to organise consumer boycotts multinationals in relation to ethical that our combined spending is back in the late 1980s, three of issues and there definitely is a core enormous. By making positive the world’s four biggest cosmetics of companies whose intentions are choices when you shop, you can companies were forced to genuine. The old certainty – that bring about lasting change. abandon at least some types of all big business is equally bad – is

Ethical Consumer A BEGINNER’S GUIDE 23 You are not alone (ethical consumerism in numbers)

It’s easy to get the idea that the odds are against us. However, if we look back over the years, we can see that tremendous changes have occurred, from the growth of ethical investment to the shift in company policies on GM foods. We believe that our work at Ethical Consumer has helped to bring out these changes and that there are many other successes worth celebrating.

• £38 billion value of UK • In 2003, Sustainable ethical consumerism in Fish was valued at 2015. This compares to £10.5 million, in 2015 just £13.5 billion in 1999 that figure rose to £507 million. • Green home market ended 2015 with a net • £1.6 billion sales of worth of £8.8 billion. . products carrying the Fairtrade mark in 2015 • Spending on ethical food and drink has • Eco -travel and boycott is normally called increased from over £7 transport showed growth by an organisation or billion in 2011 to over 9 of 17.9% during 2015, A group of individuals, billion in 2015. now valued at £9.4 asking consumers not to buy a billion. specific product, or the products • £1.3 billion the amount of a company, in order to exert that UK consumers spent • Over 20% of UK commercial pressure. This is on ethical personal consumers bought usually done to get the company products in 2015. second-hand clothes for to change its behaviour - to cease an activity or to adopt more ethical reasons during • £710m estimated total ethical practices. According to 2015. the Co-operative Bank’s research, UK vegetarian foods 50% of UK consumers in 2011 market in 2015 avoided a product or service because of a company’s behaviour.

A BEGINNER’S GUIDE Ethical Consumer 24 Consumer Boycotts A powerful tool in persuading companies to act more responsibly, boycotts have a proven track record.

supermarkets to aware of the consequences of its stop stocking cruelly- decisions, not just financially, but produced meat products for people, the environment and such as kangaroo and animals. debeaked duck. Problems with boycotts Ethical Consumer Some types of campaign group publishes a full list of current have problems with boycotts. UK boycotts on its website, and For example, development runs a regular boycott news page charities, such as CAFOD and in each issue of the magazine. At Oxfam have contended that Ethical Consumer, we report on boycotts of companies involved all the boycotts we receive which in workers’ rights abuses could have a registered headquarters put workers’ livelihoods at risk. and let our readers know. We Some organisations also stress don’t necessarily endorse all of that a boycott over such issues the boycotts which we report. must be supported by the Boycott targets workers themselves in order to be Sometimes a company can genuinely democratic. become a boycott target simply For ECRA, however, boycotts Companies are sensitive to because it’s big (and there is offer campaign groups and/ boycotts because they can have a questionable industry-wide or individuals the chance to serious financial implications. In practice) or just because it exert economic pressure for the case of a boycott of Barclays is vulnerable to consumer change and can be particularly Bank for its involvement in pressure. French wine producers appropriate when governments South Africa during the time of were targeted in this way by are unwilling or unable to apartheid, Barclays’ share of the groups opposing the French introduce reforms. They are UK student market dropped from government’s nuclear tests in the therefore a vitally important 27% to 15% by the time it had Pacific. However, companies can extension of our formal pulled out. usually avoid becoming a formal ‘democracy’. They can also Boycotts may also affect a boycott target by anticipating be especially empowering for company’s image. Supermarkets social trends and/or by not being consumers through the process are especially sensitive about this left behind by competitors. A of actively rejecting something - a fact not lost on Viva! which responsible company should be produced or sold in an has had successes in getting able to achieve this by being unethical way.

Ethical Consumer A BEGINNER’S GUIDE 25 It Can be Easy Being Green

If you’re new to environmental issues and want to start reducing your carbon impact then here are a few simple tips to get you started.

3 Make the most of your heating Why do it? Turning your thermostat down by one degree cuts your fuel consumption by up to 10%, so even a small change here can bring serious savings. 1 Eat less meat How to do it: Turn your thermostat Why do it? Livestock production is down to 18C, use the timer on your responsible for a massive amount of 2 Invest in a bicycle boiler, turn off radiators in unused global greenhouse gas emissions. Why do it? The average car rooms, keep the radiators clear of Compassion in World Farming produces three tonnes of CO2 a sofas, curtains and towels. estimate that if an average household year. Cycling, on the other hand, in the UK cut down its consumption does not produce any at all. Bicycles of meat by half, this would cut more are cheap to run (and free to emissions than if they’d cut their car use!) and are an excellent form of use by half. exercise. How do I do it? The Meat How do I do it? If you don’t already Free Monday campaign is trying have a bike, then it’s worth talking to encourage people to go to your employer and getting them vegetarian on just one day a week to sign up to the government’s cycle – www.meatfreemondays.com. The scheme – www.cyclescheme.co.uk Vegetarian Society is a good place to The National Cyclists’ Organisation go for vegetarian inspiration, recipes (CTC) has a website with all you and support – www.vegsoc.org or need to know about cycling: www. the Vegan Society for vegan advice ctc.org.uk including information – www.vegansociety.com about cycling training and a good links section.

A BEGINNER’S GUIDE Ethical Consumer 26 Our other services

Corporate Critic Database Corporate Critic is our main online database which contains detailed information for checking out suppliers and partners. Immediate access is available with the use of a credit card and costs from £25 per day It contains 4 Draught proof your information on more than 30,000 companies, and you can house check free at www.corporatecritic.org whether it holds Why do it? Draught-proofing your any data you might wish to see. house is one of the easiest things you can do to improve the efficiency of Company screening services your home at very little cost. ...are aimed at people who need more detailed, How to do it: Your local DIY or independent and specific research on a company. hardware shop should have plenty They’re particularly useful for charities and NGOs who of materials. Look for easy-to-fix want to screen their sponsors or suppliers, and for seals for exterior doors, letterbox ethical investors. Our screening service helps you ensure covers and sealant to block the that your partners, suppliers, sponsors or potential gaps between your floorboards and investments won’t pose a reputational risk or clash skirting boards. with your own ethics, values and mission. For each screening we’ll verify company ownership and update the full structure of the company group. We’ll check all the abstracts or stories that we unearth for quality and relevance to your specific needs. We’ll also do a bit of further digging to make sure that you’ll have the most up- to-date and comprehensive information on the company. Costs from £69 per company. Bespoke Research We also offer bespoke consultancy and screening services. 5 Stop the junk! We’ve got over twenty years of experience of research Why do it? The average home into: receives 224 items of junk mail every • The ethical performance of companies year. Most of this will end up in • Business sector analysis landfill. Junk mail is a of time, • Opportunity analysis in the ethical marketplace energy and resources. In the UK, 3.5 High-profile clients include Comic Relief, WWF, Amnesty million trees are cut down every year International, International Consumer Research and to produce the masses of junk mail Testing, Christian Aid and the Co-operative Bank. which most of us ignore. We’ve produced extensive reports for clients on a number How to do it: Register your name of topics including: online with the Mailing Preference • Employment standards in the hotel industry Service to stop 95% of your junk mail • Future trends in NGO campaigning – www.mpsonline.org.uk. • Retailers’ stocking policies on Email your name and address to • The environmental impacts of kaolin mining. [email protected] for a form to opt out of receiving unaddressed For more information visit www.ethicalconsumer.org/ mail. ResearchServices or contact us on 0161 226 2929 to discuss your needs.

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