Southern Vancouver Island’s Cowichan Valley is It is also very easy to add in a quick trip to Salt Spring an undiscovered gem with lots of quiet back road Island without having to backtrack. Summer time is and trail biking combined with taste worthy stops the best time to visit. e weather is reliably sunny at any one of the approximately dozen wineries. and warm (though there are always exceptions), all Rolling, pastoral landscapes with mountainous the wineries are open and the area is particularly backdrops to the west are what you’ll encounter pretty. e shoulder season of May/June and Sep - every day on your bike. Evenings can be spent in tember /October is also a worthwhile time for a trip wonderful B&B’s including a lavender farm, 5 star though in early May and late October some of the hotels, a culinary farmhouse retreat or any number wineries have more restricted hours. of lower budget options with some camping possi - bilities too. You’ll encounter small towns like Outside of biking, eating and wine tasting you could Cowichan Bay, a foodie’s paradise with offerings look forward to a diverse range of activities includ - such as delicious homemade cheeses, baked goods, ing whale watching, Cowichan River kayaking, ice cream and more. cooking lessons or a half day to full day interactive raptor experience. Plan on a minimum of three days but allow more time if you want to discover the charms of Victoria. Trestle on the Trans Canada Trail Victoria to the Cowichan Valley Cycle, sip and taste your way through the Cowichan Valley
PHOTOGRAPHY BY GUSTAVE PELLERIN 1 CLOTHES BIKE EQUIPMENT OTHER __ Prescription and non prescription drugs __ Underwear and socks, biking and otherwise __ Pump, tire irons & patch kit plus spare inner __ Cycling glasses/sunglasses __ Sunscreen and toiletries tubes __ Leg and arm warmers depending on the __ Camera + extra batteries __ Energy bars season __ Cycle odometer __ Cell phone or phone card __ Booties for rain protection __ Bike lock __ Cash + debit card __ Cycling gloves __ Repair tools with Allen wrenches __ Ziploc bags + large plastic bags for panniers __ Bike shorts and short and long sleeved bike __ Bungee cord __ Panniers and a handlebar bag if not sup - jerseys depending on the season __ Your own pedals and bike shoes (optional) plied __ Long biking pants depending on the season __ Helmet and helmet cover for rain __ Nylon bags for dirty clothes __ Rain gear for top and bottom __ Water bottles __ Map, guide and itinerary __ Windproof fleece jacket __ Swiss army style of knife + spoon and fork __ Jeans and/or shorts (optional) __ After biking tops – long and short sleeved __ Headlamp + extra batteries or a bike light in __ Shoes and/or sandals case you’re on the road when it gets dark __ Bandana __ First aid kit 2 HIIGHLIIGHTS Itinerary Overview Day 5 Presented below is a quick overview of the itinerary Aer breakfast consider one of the following op - • Foodie paradise tions. Option A would entail cycling 23 kms from followed in later sections with the full details of the • Great fun wine tasting trip. Cowichan Bay north to Croon followed by a ferry ride over to Salt Spring Island for a quick tour • Pretty back road and trail cycling there. en consider a night in either Vesuvius or Day 1 • Good mixture of city and country stays Arrive in Victoria and spend the rest of the day at Ganges on Salt Spring Island. Option B involves a leisure. loop on the Cowichan Valley portion of the Trans • Interesting accommodation choices Canada Trail (TCT) with perhaps another night • A long car-free stretch of the Trans at Fairburn Farm. Day 2 Canada trail to ride Victoria tourist day - take advantage of whale watching, sightseeing, shopping etc. Pick up your Day 6 • Diverse activities for the non biking hours bike or have it delivered at the end of the day. If you elected to go to Salt Spring Island and have the time then the possibilities of adding up to a Coastal CyCle and Water Day 3 week on the other Gulf Islands exist. (See the Gulf sports Cycle the Lochside Trail part way up the Saanich Islands eguide) Otherwise cycle to Fulford Har - www.coastalwatersports.com Peninsula. Visit wineries and the Butchart Gardens bour and take the ferry to Swartz Bay. Look for the #1-1610 Island Highway, Victoria before arriving in Brentwood Bay, your home for Lochside Trail and ride it all the way back to Vic - ph: 888-391-1980 or 250-391-1980 the night. Choose the 5 star hotel or a local B&B. toria. You can also join the Lochside Trail in Sidney eir rates are $25/day or $100/week and include Total kms -21 + additional mileage possible with if you had elected to spend the night there. If you a rack if requested but not panniers, helmet, lock side trips did the TCT on Day 5 then in all likelihood the or patch kit. ey are just off the Galloping Goose best thing to do is to make your way back to the Trail but a ways out from downtown, though they Day 4 Mill Bay ferry and onwards to Victoria. will deliver to you. Take the Brentwood Bay to Mill Bay ferry and cycle to Merridale Cider where you can partake of Bike Rentals - Victoria sports rent BC a self guided tour and tasting. Continue to Damali If you haven’t brought a bike with you, then of www.sportsrentbc.com Lavender Farm, Cherry Point Winery and then course you need to rent one. I travel with my own #3- 1950 Government street, Victoria into Cowichan Bay. Either stay in the vicinity of detachable rack and waterproof panniers which ph: 250-385-7368 Cowichan Bay for the night or con - you might also want to consider doing. ere are a eir rates are $25/ day or $79/week with a $200 tinue another 9 kilometres to Fair - number of bike rental places in Victoria. security deposit. Panniers and a rack are an addi - burn Farm and a great meal. Total tional $45/week plus a security deposit of $100. kms – 27 to Cowichan Bay and 36 if you stay at Fairburn Farm
PHOTOGRAPHY BY GUSTAVE PELLERIN 3 N I R E
L VIA PASSENGER AND CAR FERRIES
L DETAILED ROUTE ACCOUNT
E FROM WASHINGTON STATE P
E • For foot passengers only from Seattle: V A
T Day 1 — Get to Victoria www.clippervacations.com/ferry/ferryschedule S
U Get to Victoria by any one of the following G
Y methods. • Car ferry from Anacortes to Sidney: B Y
H www.wsdot.wa.gov/ferries/ P
A VIA BC FERRIES R Take a ferry to either Swartz Bay or Nanaimo but G • Foot passengers only from Port Angeles: O T keep in mind that Nanaimo is a 1 ½ hour drive O www.victoriaexpress.com (May through Sep - H P from Victoria. Visit www.bcferries.com for tember) Tea at the Empress Hotel schedules and pricing. • Car ferry from Port Angeles: selkIrk statIon VIA PLANE www.cohoferry.com www.switchbridgetours.com Victoria International Airport services flights from #16- 80 regatta landing, Victoria all over Canada as well as Seattle. It is only 30 min - • Foot passengers from Bellingham ph: 866-383-1466 utes to downtown Victoria by bus or taxi. Cana - www.whales.com (May through October) One day rates are $25 and weekly rates are $85. dian airlines that fly into Victoria include Air ey rent panniers too. Canada, Westjet Airlines and Pacific Coastal Air - Accommodation in Victoria lines. Alaska Airlines and United Airlines fly in ere is a wide range of accommodation for every You will also need a place to leave your surplus lug - from the US. budget. Certainly a central location is helpful to see gage. Sometimes the bike store will be kind enough the sights and to access the start of the Galloping to store it but if not, most hotels, B&B’s or wher - VIA SEA PLANE Goose Trail. is is not an exhaustive list but will ever you stay will provide that service. Inquire when ere are multiple flights everyday from down - give you a sense of what to expect. you rent your bike. town Vancouver, Nanaimo, Richmond (near the Vancouver airport) and Seattle. laurel poInt Inn Visit www.westcoastair.com/ , www.harbour-air.com / www.laurelpoint.com and www.kenmoreair.com/ for more information. 680 Montreal street, Victoria ph: 250-386-8721 e rooms at the inn are well appointed and the inn conveniently located near the seawall and inner
PHOTOGRAPHY BY GUSTAVE PELLERIN 4 harbour. Rates in the summer start at about $224 spInnakers Gastro BreWpuB & per night but are much less in the off season. Guest Houses www.spinnakers.com/ aBIGaIl’s Hotel 308 Catherine street, Victoria www.abigailshotel.com ph: 250-384-2739 906 McClure st.,Victoria ey have rooms in a restored heritage guesthouse ph: 800-561-6565 as well as more contemporary garden suites and a is is a 5 star boutique hotel providing a luxuri - bungalow. Rates are $149 to $249 and come with ous room, gourmet breakfast and 5pm hors d’oeu - a gourmet breakfast. ey are also close to the inner vres. Rates vary from $139-$450 per night harbour. depending on the season and the room. ey are only 3 blocks to Victoria’s inner harbour. Restaurants in Victoria aMetHyst Inn at reGents park e following restaurants come highly recom - www.amethyst-inn.com mended by the Globe and Mail and a former food 1501 Fort street, Victoria critic. Eclectic signage in Cowichan Bay ph:888-265-6499 red FIsH, Blue FIsH is is a 5 star B&B in a fully restored 1885 man - www.redfish-bluefish.com Blue CraB Bar and GrIll sion. Rates range from $119-$399 per night de - 1006 Wharf street on the pier www.bluecrab.ca pending on the room and season. Prices include a ph: 250-298-6877 146 kingston street full breakfast. ey have a sustainable ocean wise menu specializ - ph: 250-480-1999 roseWood Inn ing in fish & chips, fish tortillas and sandwiches for Overlooks the inner harbour and serves excel - www.rosewoodvictoria.com takeout. Open from 11:30am to 7pm. lent food. 595 Michigan street, Victoria ZaMBrI’s Il terraZZo ph: 866-986-2222 www.zambris.ca www.ilterrazzo.com is English style B&B has 17 well appointed 110-911 yates street 537 Johnson in Waddington alley rooms starting from $145 per night in the summer. ph: 250-360-1171 ph: 250-361-0028 ey are a two block walk from the inner harbour. No reservations, an open kitchen and 40 minute A perennial Italian favourite with both lunch and line ups for stellar local, organic food. dinner served.
PHOTOGRAPHY BY GUSTAVE PELLERIN 5 CaFe BrIo Take a trip to the world famous 55 acre Butchart could hop on a train in Victoria and head north for www.cafe-brio.com Gardens though you can also do this by bike on the the day to see the offshore Gulf Islands, the Strait of 944 Fort street way to the ferries if you allow enough time. Georgia and a spectacular gorge. e train heads as ph: 250-383-0009 www.butchartgardens.com far north as Courtenay but has stops in Cowichan, Serves West Coast contemporary food. Duncan, Chemainus, Nanaimo and Qualicum Walk through the 1 acre garden created by Beach along the way. You could get off and wander reBar Modern Food Prince and Princess Abkhazi which is a superb around a particular town, have lunch and take the www.rebarmodernfood.com example of West Coast garden design. return train back to Victoria all in one day. Visit 50 Bastion square www.conservancy.bc.ca/ www.viarail.ca/en/trains/rockies-and- ph: 250-361-9223 Enjoy a Harbour Ferry Cruise. pacific/victoria-courtenay for pricing and sched - Serves funky, healthy food for breakfast, lunch and ules. dinner. Extensive juice bar and smoothie list. www.victoriaharbourferry.com CaFé BlIss Plan to indulge in a typical British aernoon Day 3 — Cycle from Victoria to www.cafebliss.ca high tea at the Fairmont Empress hotel complete Brentwood Bay with scones, preserves, jersey cream, teas, sweets 556 pandora avenue OVERNIGHT IN BRENTWOOD BAY ph: 250-590-5733 and finger sandwiches. HIGHLIGHTS is restaurant’s focus is on local, RAW, and or - www.fairmont.com/empress/Guestservices/ Winery, Butchart Gardens, quiet cycling on the ganic and reputed to be excellent. Go on a whale watching tour where the probability Lochside Trail, Sidney Spit of sighting whales, especially Orcas, is high. TOTAL MILEAGE Day 2 — Victoria www.orcaspirit.com/ or www.princeofwhales.com Victoria – Brentwood Bay 21kms SIGHTSEEING AND RELAXATION Use the dedicated walkway along the inner harbour Greater Victoria is a bustling center of about ADDITIONAL MILEAGE OPTION of Victoria. Take in the views of the floating docks Lochside Trail (from the Sayward intersection) to 330,000 people, many of whom have come to retire and boats plus interesting old buildings including the Sidney and back: 27kms because of the climate. e city itself is worth at least BC Parliament Buildings. Follow your walk up with a full day so consider doing some of the following: some window shopping, people watching from a Route Combine a trip to view the outdoor collection of cafe, gallery hopping or try a You can pick up the beginning of the Galloping totem poles in underbird Park with a visit to the local brew at one of the brew - Goose trail right in downtown Victoria. Access the Royal BC Museum. www.royalbcmuseum.bc.ca pubs including the Canoe, trail aer crossing the Johnston Street Bridge at the Swan or Hugo Brewpubs. north end of the inner harbour at the intersection Enjoy the sights of the Art Gallery of Greater Vic - with Esquimalt Road. It will be well signed. Aer toria especially the works of world renown west If you only have a limited the initial 3.8 kilometres head right at the Switch coast artist Emily Carr. www.aggv.bc.ca amount of time for Vancouver Bridge onto the Lochside Trail which actually con - Island, but you’d like a better tinues all the way to the ferry terminal at Swartz Bay. sense of the place then you
PHOTOGRAPHY BY GUSTAVE PELLERIN 6 e easiest way to access the Butchart Gardens and It’s a short day if you only ride to Brentwood Bay Brentwood Bay Accommodation the Church and State Winery is to follow the but there are lots of other things to do. Continue Lochside trail north from Victoria until you reach onto Sidney and explore the waterfront of that BrentWood Bay lodGe Sayward Road. Turn le and cross Highway 17 town. Browse their bookstores and even consider www.brentwoodbaylodge.com/ onto Brookleigh Road. Make a le at Oldefield, a short boat ride to Sidney Spit Marine Park, a great 849 Verdier avenue, Victoria right on Brookhaven and then a right on Old West bird watching spot. You can also sea kayak out of ph: 250-544-2079 or 888-544-2079 Saanich. Old West Saanich ends at Highway 17A Brentwood Bay, enjoy spa services at the Brent - is is a five star oceanfront resort situated beside which you will want to take until you reach the in - wood Bay Lodge, leisurely stroll through the the Brentwood Bay – Mill Bay ferry and a short tersection of Keating Cross Road and Benvenuto Butchart Gardens and take a prolonged lunch. bike ride away from the Butchart Gardens. Prices Road. Turn le on Benvenuto Road and the vary seasonally and range from $179 to $549 per Church and State Winery will be on your le just Another worthwhile side trip is a visit to Sea Cider night. past the butterfly gardens. See their website at Farm and Ciderhouse, www.seacider.ca/ . e fruit from their more than 1000 organic apple trees BenVenuto B&B www.churchandstatewines.com/ . ey have wine www.benvenutobandb.com/ tastings seven days a week starting in May. is used for various cider products. You can visit them on a year round basis though in spring and 1130 Benvenuto avenue If you continue le on Benvenuto Road aer exit - summer it is possible to relax on a deck overlooking ph: 250-544-1088 ing the winery you will run into the Butchart Gar - the orchards and the ocean, while sipping ciders Rates are $115-$140 per night. ey are very close dens shortly aer crossing Wallace Drive. e matched with organic cheeses. to the Butchart Gardens. gardens are open every day at 9am except Christ - BrentWood Bay HerItaGe mas. Summer ticket prices for adults are $28. ere To reach the Ciderhouse continue north on the Lochside Trail for another 5 kms from the Sayward House are three restaurants on the property and lots to see www.bcheritagehouse.com but be prepared to battle with busloads of tourists Road intersection. Make a le turn at Mount New - ton Cross Road and then take the first right on to 7247 West saanich road in the summer. For more information you can visit ph: 250-652-2012 www.butchartgardens.com . Central Saanich Road. Follow it for 1.1 kms and then turn right on Mt. St. Michael Road. e Rates are $75-$215 per night. Ciderhouse is just up the road half a kilometre on your right.
PHOTOGRAPHY BY GUSTAVE PELLERIN 7 BRENTWOOD BAY – M IILL BAY FERRY SCHEDULE Blue Bayou CaFe of May and the rest of June it only runs on week - www.bluesbayoucafe.com/ ends. Visit www.alpinegroup.ca/companies/sid - The 25 minute crossing schedule is in effect year round. 899 Marchant road neyspitferry.php for more ferry information. ph: 250-544-1194 LEAVE BRENTWOOD BAY LEAVE MILL BAY A fun little cafe with a New Orleans theme, located e park has a famous sandbar which at low tide allows for miles of beach walking. You can also hike 7:30 am 8:05am right on the water. (except Sunday) (except Sunday) on a trail around the saltwater lagoon. e park is BrentWood seaGrIlle also a notable bird watching destination especially 8:40 am 9:15am and puB in July and August when Rhinoceros Auklets and www.brentwoodbaylodge.com/dine Heerman’s Gulls visit by the hundreds. 9:50 am 10:25 am e restaurant is located in the lodge. Oceanfront 11:00am 11:35am dining with a seafood themed menu. Day 4 — Ferry from Brentwood Bay 1:15pm 1:50pm CHurCH and state WInery to Mill Bay www.churchandstatewines.com/ CYCLE TO MERRIDALE CIDER, DAMALI 2:25pm 3:00pm LAVENDER FARM, CHERRY POINT WINERY 1445 Benvenuto ave. AND INTO COWICHAN BAY. NIGHT OVER IN 3:35pm 4:10pm A vineyard lunch is available from Wednesdays to COWICHAN BAY OR AT FAIRBURN FARM. Sundays only. HIGHLIGHTS 4:45pm 5:20pm Ferry ride, Merridale Cider tour, Damali Lavender 5:55pm 6:30pm Additional Activities – Day 3 Farm, wine tasting, Cowichan Bay food, Fairburn SEA KAYAKING Farm meals and atmosphere Adult fares are $6 each way and bikes are free. You can rent kayaks at the Marina at Brentwood Bay Lodge without being a guest at the lodge. Con - TOTAL MILEAGE tact them at 250-652-3151 to make a reservation. Brentwood Bay to Cowichan Bay via Merridale A two hour rental of a double kayak is $35. Cider - 27 kilometres Brentwood Bay Area Restaurants ere are a number of small cafes and a Chinese OPTIONAL SIDNEY SPIT PROVINCIAL PARK restaurant in the village of Brentwood Bay. You can Access this marine park by a 25 minute passenger Brentwood Bay to Fairburn Farm, via Merridale also dine at either of the two restaurants in the only ferry for $18. It runs 7 days a week from late Cider and Cowichan Bay – 36 kms Butchart Gardens or at one of the restaurants June until Labour Day weekend. For the last half below.
PHOTOGRAPHY BY GUSTAVE PELLERIN 8 ROUTE self guided tour and follow it up with a tasting of Decide what time you want to take the ferry and the many different styles of cider. Lunch and dinner plan on being there about 15 minutes before de - are also available on certain days. It would be wise parture. See the ferry schedule on page 8. A ferry to visit their website at www.merridalecider.com employee wanders around selling tickets – there is to confirm their hours. no formal office. You do not need exact change but be aware that they don’t accept credit cards. It is Aer your visit to Merridale Cider turn right only a 25 minute crossing to Mill Bay. When you (northwest) on Cameron-Taggart Road. Continue reach the Mill Bay ferry terminal, exit and continue for 1.0 kms to Shawnigan Lake Road and turn right along the water on Mill Bay Road for 5.4 kms. right. Stay on Shawnigan Lake Road for 1.2 kms Kayak om the doors of the Brentwood Bay Hotel ere are some nice views over the water in this sec - and take the third right onto Hutchison Road. tion. Turn le on Deloume Road and then unfor - Continue 3.8 kms to Telegraph Road and be very Exit Cherry Point Winery and turn le to continue tunately right onto the highway, though you will careful crossing Highway 1. Turn le at Telegraph along Cherry Point Road. is is an area with only need to ride it for half a kilometre. ere is a Road and the Damali Lavender Farm is immedi - lovely quiet cycling. Continue 3.9 kms and turn le decent sized shoulder but it can be noisy. Take the ately there. e lavender farm is open 7 days a week again. You will still be on Cherry Point Road, even first le onto the Shawnigan – Mill Bay Road and in the summer from 10am until 4pm. e distance aer the 90 degree turn. Cycle for 1.4 kms to the stay on it for 2.3 kms. Turn right on Cameron-Tag - between Merridale Cider and the lavender farm is junction of Koksilah Road and Cowichan Bay gart Road and follow it for a rolling 1.9 kms. Turn 6 kms. Road and turn right onto Cowichan Bay Road. right again onto Merridale Road and follow it to Aer the lavender farm exit le on Telegraph Road Now you’re in for a great downhill ride. Cycle the end. You can’t miss the turnoff for Merridale and continue for 3.6 kms. en turn right on Cherry down the road 1.4 kms into the village of Cider. Point Road and the winery is down half a kilometre Cowichan Bay. In the middle of town you can buy great bread at True Grain, cheeses from Hilary and Merridale Cider is a beautifully appointed prop - on the le. It is a friendly spot to enjoy a visit and in the summer there is a bistro open from Wednesday ice cream from e Udder Guys. It’s a lovely little erty with a 13 acre apple orchard, working cider town to poke about in. mill, tasting room and gi shop. You can try their to Sunday. Visit www.cherrypointvineyards.com for more information .
9 Cowichan Valley Accommodation FaIrBurn FarM Choices www.fairburnfarm.bc.ca/ ere is no shortage of accommodation in the 3310 Jackson road, duncan Cowichan Valley though if you are travelling self ph: 250-746-4637 supported you will need to give some thought to Rooms vary quite a bit. It is a creaky old house with where you might find an evening meal. Restaurants a definite charm. Rates are between $120 and $160 can be found in Mill Bay, Shawnigan Lake, and the cottage is more. A delicious breakfast is in - Cowichan Bay, Cobble Hill and Duncan. e fol - cluded as is free internet and water buffalo view - lowing wineries also offer meals in the summer on ing! You can time your visit to coincide with limited days. cooking classes. During the summer there are oen all day Saturday classes using the freshest of local • Merridale Estate Cider (lunch and dinners ingredients. only Friday to Sunday) Forest reFleCtIons B&B • Cherry Point Vineyards (lunch only till 4pm) www.forestreflections.ca • Zanatta Winery (lunch only until 4pm) 3401 kingburne drive, Cobble Hill ph: 250-743-7689 e Udder Guys - a great place for ice cream in Cowichan Bay e issue will be how far you are willing to cycle for Rates are $149-$169 per night. e B&B sits on 5 your evening meal, keeping in mind that not every acres on a large pond. If you are heading to Fairburn Farm this unfortu - day is a sunny day. nately requires a steep climb out of Cowichan Bay. peBBled sHores B&B From the center of Cowichan Bay head east and daMalI Bed & BreakFast www.pebbledshores.com/ take the first right onto Wilmot Road. You’ll be www.damali.ca 4620 lanes road, Cowichan Bay climbing right away. Take the second right to stay 3500 telegraph road, Cobble Hill ph: 250-701-0847 on Wilmot Road and then the first le and con - ph: 250-743-4100 or 877-743-5170 Rooms are $150-$175 with internet and views to tinue another 1.4 kms to reach Koksilah Road. Rooms are $175-$200 per night. ere is an onsite the water. Cross the highway and continue on Koksilah for lavender shop. Dinner can be eaten across the street 4.8 kms. Turn le on Jackson Road and aer just at the Arbutus Ridge Golf Course. e two hotels listed below would be terrific if you half a kilometre take the first right though you will had a car and were not self supported. Check with remain on Jackson. en it is only 1.7 kms of pretty them beforehand as they may be able to arrange a biking on dirt roads to get to the Farm. e dis - taxi service. Otherwise both places require a con - tance from Cowichan Bay to Fairburn Farm is just siderable distance of cycling on a busy highway. over 9 kms.
PHOTOGRAPHY BY GUSTAVE PELLERIN 10 aerIe resort You can expect nice views of the marina and Salt - www.aerie.bc.ca spring Island, solidly prepared food and a casual 600 ebedora lane dining experience. ph: 250-743-4766 or 800-518-1933 e hotel is a member of the Relais and Chateau la poMMeraIe BIstro at group so you can count on a special experience. MerrIdale CIder ey are located just off of the Malahat Highway www.merridalecider.com and would be better accessed via a vehicle. ey are ph: 250-743-4293 located 27 kilometres south of Cowichan Bay. e restaurant is open daily for lunch but only Fri - Prices are $225 and up per night. day to Sunday for dinner. MalaHat MountaIn Inn BIstro 161 www.malahatmountaininn.com www.bistro161.com/ 265 trans Canada Highway 161 kenneth street, duncan ph: 800-913-1944 ph: 250-746-6466 is is a boutique hotel with great views over the ey offer lunch and dinner and try to incorporate Strait of Georgia. ey are situated 28 kms south a lot of local ingredients. of Cowichan Bay. Rates are $245 and up. All meals rIVerWalk CaFe are available onsite. www.quwutsun.ca/riverwalk.html Saltspring Island Farm and Cheese Shop Quw’utsun’ Cultural Center 200 Cowichan Restaurants in the Cowichan Area Way, duncan OR You will be pleasantly surprised at the depth and ph: 250-746-8119 OPTION B – Cycle from Fairburn Farm to quality of the restaurants in the area. Below is a list - Look for a lunch showcasing contemporary native wineries, to the Cowichan section of the Trans ing of some of the better ones, garnered from Eat cuisine. Canada Trail and back to Fairburn Farm (55 kms) Magazine and word of mouth. tHe aerIe HIGHLIGHTS aMuse BIstro www.aerie.ca OPTION A – pretty back road cycling, wine www.amusebistro.com/ 600 ebedora lane tasting, raptor center, ferry ride, Saltspring Island 1753 shawnigan Mill Bay road, Cobble Hill ph: 250-743-4766 or 800-518-1933 ph: 250-743-3667 OPTION B – wine tasting, quiet, non motorized Reputed to have an excellent restaurant though it trail, river swim ey were recently awarded a silver medal for ‘Best may be out of the way for some. ey received an Vancouver Island Restaurant’ by Vancouver Maga - ‘Award of Excellence’ for their wine list from Wine TOTAL DISTANCE zine. Spectator magazine. OPTION A – Cowichan Bay to Ganges via Croon - 31 kms tHe MastHead restaurant www.themastheadrestaurant.com/ Day 5 OPTION B – Fairburn Farm-wineries-TCT-Lake 1705 Cowichan Bay road, Cowichan Bay OPTION A – Cycle from Cowichan Bay to Cowichan- Duncan-Fairburn Farm - 55 kms ph: 250-748-3714 Croon and over to Saltspring Island (31 kms)
11 Queen Street. Stay on Queen for 0.7 kms and turn turn le and continue on Rainbow Road for 3.1 right at Chaplin. e ferry terminal is just ahead. kms to reach Lower Ganges Road. Turn right and Total mileage from Cowichan Bay to the ferry ter - in a few hundred metres you’ll be in the center of minal is 22 kms. town. e distance from Vesuvius to Ganges is roughly 9 kms. It is only a 20 minute sail across to Vesuvius on Salt Spring Island but you will want to check the ferry Ganges Accommodation schedule ahead of time. Visit www.bcferries.com ere is one luxurious and extremely pricey inn on for up to date schedule information. e ferries the island as well as many B& B’s running the full Welcome to Cherry Point Vineyards leave about every hour but on weekdays they have gamut on the quality scale. Staying close to Ganges the odd dangerous cargo sailing which interrupts ROUTE — OPTION A on an unsupported bike tour will make mealtimes Leave Cowichan Bay on Cowichan Bay Road by the schedule. Fares are $2 per bike and $9.45 per much easier. ere are some lovely B&B’s outside of heading west. Continue for 3.6 kms and then it be - person though you won’t have to pay to leave the the Ganges area but count on either biking to your comes Tzouhalem Road. Stay on Tzouhalem for a island. meal or using a taxi which outside of the immedi - total of 4 kms. Make a right at Donnay Road and The small hamlet of Vesuvius on Salt Spring Is - ate Ganges area is an expensive alternative. stay on it for 0.9 kms. Take the first le onto Stone - land is mostly a residential area though clustered house Way followed by a quick right onto Maple HastInGs Country House around the ferry terminal is the Vesuvius Cafe, a Bay Road. Stay on Maple Bay Road for 4.7 kms and Hotel pub and a grocery store. There are B&B’s in the turn le when you reach Herd Street. It is just over www.hastingshouse.com area if you don’t want to ride the 9 kms to 4 kms to the Pacific Northwest Raptor Center at 160 upper Ganges road Ganges. You could try the Vesuvius Beach B&B 1877 Herd Road. If you are interested in spending ph: 250-537-2362 www.saltspringbeachfront.com at 120 Langley some time with these birds then see page 18 for is luxurious hotel comes well recommended for Road. Ph: 250-538-1601. Room rates vary be - more information. You are also close to the Alder - its accommodation, food and service. It is a mem - tween $229 and $249 per night. lea Vineyards which are 3.7 kms from the intersec - ber of Small Luxury Hotels of the World and even tion of Herd and Osbourne Bay Road. (Continue To reach Ganges leave the Vesuvius ferry terminal makes it into the book ‘1000 Best Places to See Be - on Herd Road to Lakes and make a le, followed and head out on Vesuvius Bay Road, staying on it fore you Die”. You’ll just need the money to do it as by a le onto Stamps Road.) for 3.6 kms. Turn right on Lower Ganges Road and its rooms start at $395 in low season and $495 in follow it for 1.0 km to the intersection with Canal the summer. Walking distance to the town of To continue to Croon stay on Herd Road for 2.6 Road, which offers a quieter, more pleasant alter - Ganges. kilometres and then turn right onto Osbourne Bay native to the remaining 2.5 kms of Lower Ganges Road. Stay on it for 4.5 kilometres. Turn right on Road. At Canal Road turn right and continue on it Adelaide Street and then take the first le onto for just over a kilometre to Rainbow Road. en
12 tHe HarBour House on West coast inspired suites in a beautiful garden set - BarB’s Buns saltsprInG ting and walking distance to Ganges. A choice of 121 Mc phillips avenue, Ganges www.saltspringharbourhouse.com delicious breakfasts is offered daily. Prices range ph: 250-537-4491 121 upper Ganges road from $159 to $169 per night. Great baked goods especially their cinnamon rolls. ph: 250-537-5571 A basic but clean, comfortable and affordable hotel WIsterIa Guest House tree House CaFe which also has a restaurant onsite. Rooms range www.wisteriaguesthouse.com Beside Mouat’s in Ganges from $159-$259 in the summer. 268 park drive ph: 250-537-5379 ph: 250-537-5899 Offers light meals outdoors under a tree. Nice am - saltsprInG Inn ere are 6 B&B rooms to choose from and it is a bience. www.saltspringinn.com short walk into Ganges. Prices are $119 to $159 132 lower Ganges road per night. House pICColo ph: 250-537-9339 www.housepiccolo.com Seven rooms, some with shared bathrooms are BlooM orGanIC B&B 108 Hereford avenue, Ganges available ranging from $70-$160 in price. Conve - www.bloomorganicbandb.blogspot.com/ ph: 250-537-1844 niently located close to restaurants. 175 north View drive European style menu with west coast influences. ph: 250-537-0754 Pricier but very good. anCHor poInt B&B e B&B is in the northern part of the island and www.anchorpointbb.com run by the owners of Blue Horse Gallery. It’s a bit la CuCIna ItalIan GrIll 150 Beddis road out of the way but the room is beautifully done. Mouat’s landing, Ganges ph: 250-538-0110 Rates are $130 per night with a 2 night minimum. ph: 250-537-5747 is is a Cape Cod style home which has two well e restaurant serves breakfast, lunch and dinner with an Italian emphasis. appointed rooms and is given the Canada Select Salt Spring Island Restaurants four star rating. It is walking distance ( about 1.5 ere are many eating choices ranging from pub kms) to Ganges and prices range from $165 to type food to Chinese, Mexican, Italian, fine dining, $195 per night. casual dining and everything in between. Here are a few to choose from with the bulk of the restau - MonIVea B&B rants found in the Ganges area. www.moniveasaltspring.com 420 Fulford-Ganges road ph: 250-537-5856
13 oysterCatCHer seaFood Bar Brownell and Zanatta Winery are on this road. a distance of about 30 kilometres with only one lit - and GrIll ey are well signed. e Zanatta Winery also has tle problem!! e Kinsol Trestle is closed so there Mouat’s landing, Ganges a respected restaurant with lunch served from is a circuitous route through the woods to regain ph: 250-537-5041 Wednesday to Sunday. the trail on the other side of the trestle. Most peo - Dine on well priced fresh seafood and enjoy great ple are probably going to want to avoid this as it re - harbour views. If wine tasting is not on the agenda, then continue quires hiking with your bike up and down some on towards the intersection with the TCT by con - slopes. e section north of the Kinsol Trestle is roCk salt CaFe tinuing on Glenora Road for another 1.3 kms. lovely and is a good compromise destination. e www.rocksaltrestaurant.com Turn le onto Waters Road and follow it for a few southern portion of this trail is also poorly signed 2921 Fulford-Ganges road, Fulford Harbour hundred metres past Cavin Road and then take the and chances of getting turned around (or lost to ph: 250-653-4833 next right down to the TCT. ere should be signs put it bluntly) are reasonably high. Steps from the ferry in Fulford Harbour. ere is a for the TCT in the immediate vicinity. e trail is cafe attached to the informal but reasonably priced a dirt path, about ten feet wide. If you are enjoying So back to the recommended route. Turn right on restaurant. the wine tasting then just before getting onto the the TCT and follow the well marked trail through trail you could consider one more stop. Echo Val - the woods and over trestles. On a hot summer day ROUTE — OPTION B Cowichan Section of the Trans Canada Trail ley Winery is just down the road on Waters Street. the river below will beckon you for a swim or a pic - (TCT) or more if you’re feeling energetic! Once at the TCT you have a choice. To do the rec - nic. It is 18 mostly flat kilometres to the town of ommended loop turn right (northwest) on the Lake Cowichan where there are plenty of places to Leave Fairburn Farm by cycling back down Jack - TCT and head in the direction of Lake Cowichan. grab a cold drink and a snack before returning to son Road for 2.5 kms to the intersection with Kok - Fairburn Farm. silah Road. Turn le and follow Koksilah Road for However, if you are feeling energetic you can add 2.9 kms and turn le when you reach Miller Road. some miles by turning le on the TCT and head To return to Fairburn Farm you can rejoin the gravel Stay on Miller Road for about half a kilometre and southeast. is section of the Trans Canada Trail TCT or you can ride on pavement by leaving Lake then bend le onto Glenora Road. Stay on Glenora uses old abandoned rail lines, restored trestle Cowichan on Lake Cowichan Road, not Road for 3.5 kms and turn le onto Marshall Road bridges and can take you to the Cowichan Valley Highway. if you are interested in wine tasting. Both Godfrey just south of Shawnigan Lake,
PHOTOGRAPHY BY GUSTAVE PELLERIN 14 Parallel and down from Lake Cowichan Road lies OPTION 2 — time for meandering back to Mill few of the well known cheese shops and several the TCT trail but it continues through trees so you Bay, lunch at a winery, Lochside Trail of the artist venues that are on the studio tour. miss the views. We preferred to stay on the road and There are maps available all over the island of the enjoy the scenery plus the pavement allows for faster DISTANCE tour or you could visit them beforehand at OPTION 1 — Ganges to Victoria via the Fulford cycling and it wasn’t too busy, even on a sunny, sum - Harbour ferry - 46 kms www.saltspringstudiotour.com/ . mer Saturday. Stay on Cowichan Lake Road for 27 To take advantage of this quieter route, ride the kms until it becomes Government Road at the in - OPTION 2 — Fairburn Farm – Cowichan Bay- tersection with Gibbins Road in Duncan. Continue Mill Bay ferry – Victoria- 56 kms Fulford Ganges Road for 1.1 kms from Ganges. on Government Street for 1.4 kms and then turn Turn le on Beddis Road and continue for a rolling ROUTE 5 kms. Turn right onto Cusheon Lake Road and right on Allenby Road. Allenby does a major jog le Leave Ganges on the Fulford once you cross the river. Stay on Allenby for a total OPTION 1 — follow it for 0.8 kms to Stewart Road and turn le. Ganges Road. is can be a busy road and it Stay on Stewart Road for a total of 3.5 kms. Turn of 2.1 kms and then take a right onto Koksilah Av - doesn’t have a very wide shoulder. However, it is enue. Now it is a short retrace of your steps from the right on Beaver Point Road and continue 2.5 kms very doable and by cycling on it, you can visit the to reach the intersection with the Fulford Ganges morning. Continue 3.5 kms on Koksilah and turn two Saltspring Island wineries – Garry Oaks right onto Jackson. Follow Jackson until you reach Road. Turn le and ride down the hill to the ferry Winery and Saltspring Vineyards. ey are right terminal. the farm. e distance from Lake Cowichan back beside each other and impossible to miss. ey to the farm is around 36 kms. are about 8 kms from Ganges. irteen kms is the A popular side trip for out of town visitors is a visit total distance to the ferry terminal in Fulford to the Salt Spring Island Cheese Farm Shop. Here Day 6 Harbour. Once at the terminal there are several you can wander the farm , take a self guided tour of cheese making, sample an astonishing number OPTION 1 — Cycle from Ganges to Fulford cafes and shops in case you have to wait for a Harbour, ferry to Swartz Bay and cycle the ferry. You can check the ferry schedule at of goat’s cheeses and pick up supplies for a picnic at Lochside Trail back to Victoria www.bcferries.com and it will cost you nothing nearby Ruckle Park. To reach the farm turn le to leave the island. onto Beaver Point Road at the intersection of Stew - OR art and Beaver Point Road. en take the first right There is another route to the Fulford Harbour onto Reynolds Road. e Farm is down less than a OPTION 2 — Cycle from Fairburn Farm to Mill Bay, ferry to Brentwood Bay and return to ferry which you could consider if you have time kilometre on the le hand side. A picnic and some Victoria to poke about. It would also allow you to visit a
HIGHLIGHTS OPTION 1 — Wineries on Saltspring Island, ferry ride and the full Lochside Trail
PHOTOGRAPHY BY GUSTAVE PELLERIN 15 beach time at Ruckle Park is an excellent way to Plan in advance as it is very close to the Swartz Bay ROUTE spend a few hours. To get to Ruckle Park simply re - ferry terminal on generally quiet back roads. OPTION 2 — Leave Fairburn Farm and continue trace your steps to Beaver Point Road, turn right down Jackson Road to Koksilah Road. Turn right and follow it about 6.5 kilometres to the end. Mattick’s Farm is right on the Lochside Trail, about and continue for 4.8 kms across the highway to When you are ready to head to the ferry, return to halfway to Victoria and is also a good place for eat - Wilmot Road and turn le. Before you get to the Beaver Point Road and continue about 9 kms to ing and resting. ere are a number of shops and a highway you could consider a quick trip to Blue the Fulford Ganges Road. Turn le and in a matter very good gallery too. Grouse Winery which is less than a kilometre off of seconds you will be in Fulford Harbour. e town of Sidney is just 5 kms from the ferry. If you of Koksilah Road. It is a 35 minute sailing from Fulford Harbour to didn’t have time to visit it and the Sidney Spit before Stay on Wilmot Road for about 2 kms. You’ll see Swartz Bay. ere are about 7 sailings a day. Once then perhaps take a half day to enjoy the beach and the business section of Cowichan Bay just ahead. you reach the ferry terminal simply cycle off the the water. ere is also the option to night over in Turn right on Cowichan Bay Road to head in the ferry and head up the road leading to the highway Sidney. ere are lots of low budget chain hotels and direction of the Mill Bay ferry. Stay on it for 1.8 kms for about 150 metres. Look for the Lochside Trail two more upscale ones listed below. e town itself is and then turn le onto Telegraph Road. Continue signs which will have you turning right and head - lovely for wondering and exploring bookstores with on Telegraph Road for about 8.5 kms until you ing towards the ocean on a bridge over the high - more per capita than anywhere else in Canada. reach Kilmalu Road. Take it to the highway. Once way. e signs are very visible. Simply stay on the MIraloMa on tHe CoVe again there is an unavoidable highway section but trail all the way into Victoria for a total distance of www.miraloma.ca it’s a short one. Cross the highway and ride about 33 kms which includes an additional 4 kms on the 2326 Harbour road, sidney 1.5 kms to Deloume Road. Turn le and then right Galloping Goose Trail to get you right downtown. ph: 250-656-6622 or 877-956-6622 onto Mill Bay Road and follow it for 5.4 kms until Rates are $195 and up depending on the season. you reach the terminal. e mileage to the Mill Bay If you would like lunch in a park like setting then ferry from Fairburn Farm is about 27 kms. try: sIdney pIer Hotel and spa www.sidneypier.com Refer to the ferry schedule to try and optimize your tHe deep CoVe CHalet day. (See page 8). It is a quick ferry ride back to www.deepcovechalet.com 9805 seaport place, sidney ph: 250-655-9445 Brentwood Bay and you can visit anything you 11190 Chalet, sidney missed on the way over. e direct route to the ph: 250-544-1475 Rooms are about $170 and up. It sits on the water with nice views and a good restaurant. Lochside Trail is as follows.
16 Take Verdier Avenue 1.2 kms to West Saanich Blue Grouse estate WInery VenturI sCHulZe VIneyards Road. Turn right and follow it for 2 blocks and 4365 Blue Grouse road, duncan 4235 Vineyard road, Cobble Hill then make a le on Wallace Drive. Follow it for 3.4 ph: 250-743-3834 ph: 250-743-5630 kms to Mount Newton Cross Road and go le. ey also make superb balsamic vinegar. Continue 1.6 kms to the highway. Cross it and just CHerry poInt VIneyards on the other side of the highway is the Lochside 840 Cherry point road, Cobble Hill FaIrBurn FarM Trail. Turn right (south) and follow it for 22 kms to ph: 250-743-1272 www.fairburnfarm.bc.ca reach downtown Victoria, but note the last 4 kms 3310 Jackson road, duncan will be on the Galloping Goose Trail. Return your eCHo Valley VIneyards ph: 250-746-4637 bikes and take time to savour the experience. 4651 Waters road, Glenora, duncan Plan ahead for next year as Mara offers a full day ph: 250-748-1477 cooking class every Saturday throughout the sum - mer. Fall culinary boot camps also occur. e farm Additional Side Trips Glenterra VIneyards is included in Gourmet Magazine as one of the top WINERIES 3897 Cobble Hill road, Cobble Hill 45 culinary vacations around the world. Sunset ere are at least 10 Cowichan Valley wineries ph: 250-743-2330 Magazine has also recognized her farm as a place making several varieties of wines, depending on the to stay (especially the private cottage) and to dine. soil type and micro climate of each vineyard. ey GodFrey-BroWnell VIneyards I can personally recommend the four course din - are all listed on the following website 4911 Marshall road, duncan ner. Breakfast was also excellent. www.cowichanvalleywineries.ca/ . Hours vary ph: 250-715-0504 from place to place so check ahead, especially in the shoulder season. ere are good winery maps that roCky Creek WInery RIVER KAYAKING WarM rapIds Inn you can pick up at any tourist information center, 1854 Myhrest road, Cowichan Bay www.warmrapidsinn.com on the ferry, at B&B’s and in hotels. ph: 250-748-5622 ph: 250-709-5543 alderlea VIneyards Zanatta WInery e Inn offers a 2 hour kayak rolling clinic on the 1751 stamps road, duncan 5039 Marshall road, duncan Cowichan River or a full day introduction to ph: 250-746-7122 ph: 250-748-2338 whitewater kayaking. ey are located 7 kms east of Lake Cowichan or 19 kms west of Duncan on aVerIll Creek VIneyard Cowichan Lake Road. Bed and breakfast is also 6552 north duncan road, duncan available at rates varying from $60-$100 in the ph: 250-709-9986 summer.
PHOTOGRAPHY BY GUSTAVE PELLERIN 17 WHALE WATCHING making your bike that much lighter. ere are only CoWICHan Valley Grape oCean eCoVentures a few companies that have tours in the Cowichan esCape www.oceanecoventures.com area. Listed below are their websites and approxi - www.cowichanvalleygrapeescape.com/ 1745 Cowichan Bay road, Cowichan Bay mate 2009 prices. is is actually a 2 day fund raiser for Multiple Scle - ph: 250-748-3800 rosis that takes place every year in August. You can sWItCH BrIdGe tours ey are Cowichan Valley’s only company offering enjoy many of the area highlights, fully supported, www.switchbridgetours.com whale watching tours. Trips usually take 3 to 4 providing you are willing to raise some money. Add ey offer a one day biking trip which also includes hours and depending on the season you may see on a few extra days of your own for a reasonably a scenic train ride up the Malahat for $Cdn139. Orcas, Humpback, Grey or Minke whales as well priced vacation that aids a good cause! Also offered are 3 and 5 day tours of the Cowichan as porpoises, seals, sea lions and many types of Valley and Saltspring Island for $Cdn850 and seabirds. Contact them for rates. $Cdn1850 respectively. Helpful Websites/Phone Numbers BC FERRIES RAPTOR EXPERIENCE CyCle treks www.bcferries.com/ paCIFIC nortHWest raptors www.cycletreks.com ph: 888-BC Ferry or 888-223-3779 in north www.pnwraptors.com/ is Victoria based company offers a 5 day itiner - america 1877 Herd road, duncan ary which includes a bit of the Cowichan Valley. A or 250-386-3431 from outside north america ph: 250-746-0372 five day/four night combination is $Cdn1299 per For something different consider a half or full day person. COWICHAN VALLEY TOURISM raptor program. Learn the basics of picking up and www.cvrd.bc.ca/index.aspx?nId=260 handling raptors. Shorter demonstrations are also scheduled a few times a day. COWICHAN VALLEY WINE COUNTRY B&B GUIDE www.southvanislebnb.com Tour Companies Despite laying it all out in this guide, some of you might still be interested in having a touring com - VICTORIA, BC WEATHER www.theweathernetwork.com/weather/cabc0313 pany handle all the reservations and detailed plan - ning. ey would also be able to move your luggage CURRENCY CONVERTER www.xe.com Mileage Converter: 1 kilometre = 0.621371192 miles or visit www.metric-conversions.org
PHOTOGRAPHY BY GUSTAVE PELLERIN 18