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The United States As the Epicenter of Gastronomy

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The United States As the Epicenter of Gastronomy An Interview With Master Chef George Karousos The United States as the Epicenter of Gastronomy IVY AWARD winning Master Chef George Karousos the 1984 Gold Medal at the International Competition of and his wife Anna, opened the Sea Fare Inn in 1980. Their Head Chefs in Paris; the Gold Medal awarded by the Epicu­ elegant restaurant, located in Portsmouth, Rhode Island, is rean Club in Balcania in 1985; the Award of Excellence from housed in a Victorian mansion surrounded by ten acres of the Chaine des Rotisseurs in 1985; and in 1986, the presti­ manicured grounds. During the past decade Archestratios­ gious "Ivy Award" for Restaurant of the Year as voted by Epicurean Cuisine has been the specialty at the Sea Fare Restaurants & Institutions. Inn. George Karousos, often called the "Ambassador for the Karousos success as innovator has earned the Sea Fare New American Cuisine" talks about the United States as the Inn numerous national and international awards including; epicenter for gastronomy and his unique cuisine. QUEST. As a Culinary archaeologist, what have you discovered about gastronomy? KAROUSOS: I've discovered that the United States is the new epicenter of gastronomy. There are many chefs who disagree with me, but I'm sure that in time, they'll change their minds. I have great respect for European chefs, both past and present. But I feel the time has come for us to spotlight American cooking traditions, styles and innova­ tions. Why should we make pilgrimages to Europe in search of the latest food trends, when we have exceptional cui­ sine right here in the U.S.? QUEST. How did you trace the epicen­ ter of gastronomy to the U.S.? KAROUSOS: By examing my time­ line, you can trace the centers of gas­ tronomy from pre-history to the present. Like many historians and social scientists, I believe food and cul­ ture to be inseparable. Throughout his­ The Sea Fare Inn, Ivy Award Winner in Portsmouth, R.I. tory, each center of culture was also the center of gastronomy. Athens was the KAROUSOS: First I think American tomorrow. So I think cooking schools should dt:vote 40 percent of their time first center, followed by Rome. With the chefs should try to emphasize their own teaching classical cooking and 60 per­ fall of the Roman Empire, the center local cuisine. Seeing that the freshest ingredients taste the best, chefs should cent should be spent teaching the New shifted to the capital of the Byzantine Empire. During the Renaissance, Con­ use ingredients grown in their region of American Cuisine. stantinople gave way to Florence. In the country. For example, New Eng- QUEST. Do you think it is possible for time, Italy was replaced by France. land has excellent seafood, so I am American cooking schools to suddenly Today however, the U.S. has surpassed always thinking of different ways to pre­ change their curriculum? Europe and is the true epicenter of pare lobsters, swordfish and haddock. KAROUSOS: The culinary world gastronomy. Secondly, American cooking schools underwent a drastic change in 1973 should devote more time to teaching when ten European chefs introduced QUEST. The ancient Greeks made their students about the New American Nouvelle Cuisine. Not only did they countless cultural contributions to the Cuisine. Graduates will go on to cook in affect eating habits in France, but they world, did they also influence world American institutions and will be changed eating habits all over the cuisines? expected to prepare this cuisine of world. If ten chefs have such a dramatic MAY, 1991 17 The Epicurios Room of the Sea Fare Inn. impact on the way we eat, why can't the receiving only a paragraph or two chefs from around the world meet in 10,000 graduates of American cooking recognition. So I decided to focus my Germany and compete for gold, silver schools each year have similar persua­ research on Archestratios. Over the and bronze medals. At the last Culinary sion? I would like to see culinary schools years I read hundreds of books and Olympics, American chefs took home divide the map of the U.S. into regions. received permission from the Greek more medals than any other country. Instructors should then teach students government to examine ancient docu­ QUEST. What sets American chefs about the cuisines which have evolved ments. I learned that Archestratios lived apart from European chefs? in New England and Northeastern around 350 BC and was so curious KAROUSOS: American chefs are dif­ states; Louisiana and the South; the about cooking that he travelled land ferent because they are more concerned Mid-West; the Mountains and Plains; and sea in search of the best foods and with nutrition. Recently, 1 attended a the Southwest; the West coast, Hawaii; cooking methods. He stressed th e use of cooking demonstration given by a fam­ and Alaska. Seeing that the U.S. is the fresh, seasonal ingredients and light ous European chef. Someone from the epicenter of gastronomy; shouldn't sauces to enhance food's natural fla­ audience asked theis chef what he does American chefs be authorities on the vors. His methods included slow cook­ to reduce cholesterol and fat in his New American Cuisine? ing, simmering and testinJo?:. cooking. The chef replied, "I am not a QUEST. You have spent years Arhcestratios taught that Nature pro­ doctor, 1 am a chef." This is not the case researching gastronomy, what was it vided all the natural spices, herbs and with American chefs. Weare currently that sparked your interest? seasonings we need to create excep­ in the midst of a "food revolution". KAROUSOS: When I first started tional dishes. His ideas about cooking There is a feeling of excitement and reading about cookery, many writers have influenced all of the cuisines of the change in the air never before witnessed mentioned the Greek philosopher world, and still prevail today. since the Days of Enlightenment. Amer­ Archestratios as the father of gastron­ Lastly, the Olympics has always icans are witnessing a change of con­ omy and author of the world's first determined which countries have the sciousness. We are increasingly cookbook. I found it strange that some­ best athletes; the culinary world shares concerned with fitness, health, and one as important as Archestratios was the same tradition. Every four years, understand the importance of proper 18 GREEK-AMERICAN REVIEW nutrition. The health craze is not a pass­ ing fad, but a way of life for many Americans. As a result, the New Ameri­ can Cuisine has developed an innova­ tive style and character unlike any other. Already we are seeing restaurants updating their menus, fast food restau­ rants are making changes. QUEST. With so many regional and ethnic cuisines found in the U.S., how can you indentify the New American Cuisine? KAROUSOS: If cooking is an art, then I describe the New American Cuisine as a mosaic. Our country of nationalities and backgrounds and each participates in the development of our nation's cui­ sine. The same mosaic exists in France. Centuries ago, the French adopted the world's best recipes and refined them into what is known today as French Cuisine. Some cooking styles imported by the French are: Algerienne from Alg­ iers; Anglaise from England; Arden- The Carousos Family: Teddy, George, Kathy, Alexis and Anna. "Amphitryon Room", 2nd floor. MAY, 1991 19 noise from Belgium and Luxembourg; Catalano from Spain; Florentine from Italy; Gauloise from Germany, Switzer­ land and Holland; Gregue from Greece; Hongroise from Hungary; Indienne A SPECTACULAR OFFER FROM from India; Macedoine from Macedo­ nia; Porto from Portugal; Turgue from Turkey; Viennoise from Austria; and GREEK VIDEO RECORDS & TAPES INC. Zingara from the gypsies of the Byzan­ tine Empire. History repeats itself. What happened in Europe centuries ago, is now taking place in the U.S. We label the cuisines from our melting pot as "ethnic," but in time we will recognize these creations for what they really are, the New American Cuisine. QUEST. What can be done to further develop the New American Cuisine? KAROUSOS: Through the centuries IRecords!: Over 500 Selections, distress prices Greek cookery has lost its identity but LPs & ifM no one can deny its roots. Athenaeus Regular price $8.98 (We'll discontinue entire LP Line) wrote about the seven original sages of the kitchen in his The Deipnosophis. CASSETTES: Over 1000 Selections, as low as Each sage established recipes and tech­ Regular price $8.98 (We'll discontinue hundreds of selections) niques still used today. Orion invented white sauce, Lampriades originated COMPACT DISCS: Hundreds of Selections, as low as brown sauce, Nereus made eel fit for the gods, Agres taught how to fillet fish, Regular price $15.98 to $19.98 Atlantus made the perfect cordial, Euthymus taught how to cook vegeta­ VIDEOS: Hundreds of Selections, as low as bles and Amphicles taught culinary Regular price $29.95 to $15.00 (We'll discontinue hundreds of selections) merit does not lie in extravagant trimmings. NEW RELEASES MONTHLY Many are surprised when they dis­ cover that foods assumed to be created by the French, actually are variations of SPECIAL CONSIGNMENT PACKAGES FOR FESTIVALS ancient Greek dishes. Take bouilla­ AND BAZAARS OF GREEK CHURCHES - CALL US baisse for example. In 600 BC, when the Phocaean Greeks founded Marseilles A unique opportunity to enrich your music and video library. and Nice, they brought along their BUY direct from the SOURCE and $AVE, $AVE Lots of Money recipe for fish stew, called Kaccavia. The French refined the recipe and changed its name to bouillabaisse. The EXCLUSIVE DISTRIBUTORS OF MOST MAJOR French also rennovated ancient Greek GREEK RECORDS & FILM COMPANIES and Roman recipes to create pate.
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