An Interview With Master George Karousos The United States as the Epicenter of

IVY AWARD winning Master Chef George Karousos the 1984 Gold Medal at the International Competition of and his wife Anna, opened the Sea Fare Inn in 1980. Their Head Chefs in Paris; the Gold Medal awarded by the Epicu­ elegant restaurant, located in Portsmouth, Rhode Island, is rean Club in Balcania in 1985; the Award of Excellence from housed in a Victorian mansion surrounded by ten acres of the Chaine des Rotisseurs in 1985; and in 1986, the presti­ manicured grounds. During the past decade Archestratios­ gious "Ivy Award" for Restaurant of the Year as voted by Epicurean has been the specialty at the Sea Fare Restaurants & Institutions. Inn. George Karousos, often called the "Ambassador for the Karousos success as innovator has earned the Sea Fare New " talks about the United States as the Inn numerous national and international awards including; epicenter for gastronomy and his unique cuisine.

QUEST. As a Culinary archaeologist, what have you discovered about gastronomy? KAROUSOS: I've discovered that the United States is the new epicenter of gastronomy. There are many chefs who disagree with me, but I'm sure that in time, they'll change their minds. I have great respect for European chefs, both past and present. But I feel the time has come for us to spotlight American traditions, styles and innova­ tions. Why should we make pilgrimages to Europe in search of the latest trends, when we have exceptional cui­ sine right here in the U.S.? QUEST. How did you trace the epicen­ ter of gastronomy to the U.S.? KAROUSOS: By examing my time­ line, you can trace the centers of gas­ tronomy from pre-history to the present. Like many historians and social scientists, I believe food and cul­ ture to be inseparable. Throughout his­ The Sea Fare Inn, Ivy Award Winner in Portsmouth, R.I. tory, each center of culture was also the center of gastronomy. Athens was the KAROUSOS: First I think American tomorrow. So I think cooking schools should dt:vote 40 percent of their time first center, followed by Rome. With the chefs should try to emphasize their own teaching classical cooking and 60 per­ fall of the Roman Empire, the center local cuisine. Seeing that the freshest ingredients taste the best, chefs should cent should be spent teaching the New shifted to the capital of the Byzantine Empire. During the Renaissance, Con­ use ingredients grown in their region of American Cuisine. stantinople gave way to Florence. In the country. For example, New Eng- QUEST. Do you think it is possible for time, Italy was replaced by France. land has excellent seafood, so I am American cooking schools to suddenly Today however, the U.S. has surpassed always thinking of different ways to pre­ change their curriculum? Europe and is the true epicenter of pare lobsters, swordfish and haddock. KAROUSOS: The culinary world gastronomy. Secondly, American cooking schools underwent a drastic change in 1973 should devote more time to teaching when ten European chefs introduced QUEST. The ancient Greeks made their students about the New American . Not only did they countless cultural contributions to the Cuisine. Graduates will go on to cook in affect eating habits in France, but they world, did they also influence world American institutions and will be changed eating habits all over the ? expected to prepare this cuisine of world. If ten chefs have such a dramatic

MAY, 1991 17 The Epicurios Room of the Sea Fare Inn.

impact on the way we eat, why can't the receiving only a paragraph or two chefs from around the world meet in 10,000 graduates of American cooking recognition. So I decided to focus my and compete for gold, silver schools each year have similar persua­ research on Archestratios. Over the and bronze medals. At the last Culinary sion? I would like to see culinary schools years I read hundreds of books and Olympics, American chefs took home divide the map of the U.S. into regions. received permission from the Greek more medals than any other country. Instructors should then teach students government to examine ancient docu­ QUEST. What sets American chefs about the cuisines which have evolved ments. I learned that Archestratios lived apart from European chefs? in New England and Northeastern around 350 BC and was so curious KAROUSOS: American chefs are dif­ states; Louisiana and the South; the about cooking that he travelled land ferent because they are more concerned Mid-West; the Mountains and Plains; and sea in search of the best and with nutrition. Recently, 1 attended a the Southwest; the West coast, Hawaii; cooking methods. He stressed th e use of cooking demonstration given by a fam­ and Alaska. Seeing that the U.S. is the fresh, seasonal ingredients and light ous European chef. Someone from the epicenter of gastronomy; shouldn't to enhance food's natural fla­ audience asked theis chef what he does American chefs be authorities on the vors. His methods included slow cook­ to reduce cholesterol and fat in his ? ing, simmering and testinJo?:. cooking. The chef replied, "I am not a QUEST. You have spent years Arhcestratios taught that Nature pro­ doctor, 1 am a chef." This is not the case researching gastronomy, what was it vided all the natural , herbs and with American chefs. Weare currently that sparked your interest? seasonings we need to create excep­ in the midst of a "food revolution". KAROUSOS: When I first started tional dishes. His ideas about cooking There is a feeling of excitement and reading about cookery, many writers have influenced all of the cuisines of the change in the air never before witnessed mentioned the Greek philosopher world, and still prevail today. since the Days of Enlightenment. Amer­ Archestratios as the father of gastron­ Lastly, the Olympics has always icans are witnessing a change of con­ omy and author of the world's first determined which countries have the sciousness. We are increasingly cookbook. I found it strange that some­ best athletes; the culinary world shares concerned with fitness, health, and one as important as Archestratios was the same tradition. Every four years, understand the importance of proper

18 GREEK-AMERICAN REVIEW nutrition. The health craze is not a pass­ ing fad, but a way of life for many Americans. As a result, the New Ameri­ can Cuisine has developed an innova­ tive style and character unlike any other. Already we are seeing restaurants updating their menus, restau­ rants are making changes.

QUEST. With so many regional and ethnic cuisines found in the U.S., how can you indentify the New American Cuisine? KAROUSOS: If cooking is an art, then I describe the New American Cuisine as a mosaic. Our country of nationalities and backgrounds and each participates in the development of our nation's cui­ sine. The same mosaic exists in France. Centuries ago, the French adopted the world's best recipes and refined them into what is known today as . Some cooking styles imported by the French are: Algerienne from Alg­ iers; Anglaise from England; Arden- The Carousos Family: Teddy, George, Kathy, Alexis and Anna.

"Amphitryon Room", 2nd floor.

MAY, 1991 19 noise from Belgium and Luxembourg; Catalano from Spain; Florentine from Italy; Gauloise from Germany, Switzer­ land and Holland; Gregue from Greece; Hongroise from Hungary; Indienne A SPECTACULAR OFFER FROM from India; Macedoine from Macedo­ nia; Porto from Portugal; Turgue from Turkey; Viennoise from Austria; and GREEK VIDEO RECORDS & TAPES INC. Zingara from the gypsies of the Byzan­ tine Empire. History repeats itself. What happened in Europe centuries ago, is now taking place in the U.S. We label the cuisines from our melting pot as "ethnic," but in time we will recognize these creations for what they really are, the New American Cuisine. QUEST. What can be done to further develop the New American Cuisine? KAROUSOS: Through the centuries IRecords!: Over 500 Selections, distress prices Greek cookery has lost its identity but LPs & ifM no one can deny its roots. Athenaeus Regular price $8.98 (We'll discontinue entire LP Line) wrote about the seven original sages of the in his The Deipnosophis. CASSETTES: Over 1000 Selections, as low as Each sage established recipes and tech­ Regular price $8.98 (We'll discontinue hundreds of selections) niques still used today. Orion invented white , Lampriades originated COMPACT DISCS: Hundreds of Selections, as low as brown sauce, Nereus made eel fit for the gods, Agres taught how to fillet fish, Regular price $15.98 to $19.98 Atlantus made the perfect cordial, Euthymus taught how to cook vegeta­ VIDEOS: Hundreds of Selections, as low as bles and Amphicles taught culinary Regular price $29.95 to $15.00 (We'll discontinue hundreds of selections) merit does not lie in extravagant trimmings. NEW RELEASES MONTHLY Many are surprised when they dis­ cover that foods assumed to be created by the French, actually are variations of SPECIAL CONSIGNMENT PACKAGES FOR FESTIVALS ancient Greek dishes. Take bouilla­ AND BAZAARS OF GREEK CHURCHES - CALL US baisse for example. In 600 BC, when the Phocaean Greeks founded Marseilles A unique opportunity to enrich your music and video library. and Nice, they brought along their BUY direct from the SOURCE and $AVE, $AVE Lots of Money recipe for fish , called Kaccavia. The French refined the recipe and changed its name to bouillabaisse. The EXCLUSIVE DISTRIBUTORS OF MOST MAJOR French also rennovated ancient Greek GREEK RECORDS & FILM COMPANIES and Roman recipes to create pate. QUEST. For centuries, Europe has FREE CATALOG UPON REQUEST CALL TOLL FREE 1-800-453-0013 been a culinary capital, as well as home or Send Coupon below or Fax us your address to the world's most celebrated chefs, why do you think the U.S. is now the GREEK VIDEO RECORDS & TAPES, INC. capital of gastronomy? 394 McGUINESS BLVD, PO BOX 229037, BROOKLYN, N.Y. 11222-9037 FAX: 718/383-5313 - TEL: 718/383-9455 • FOR ORDERS CALL TOLL FREE: 1(800)453-0013 KAROUSOS: To prove this, first let's define gastronomy. Is gastronomy an r------i area where good restaurants are? Is gas­ I Please send me your FREE Catalogs 0 LP 0 Cassettes 0 CDs 0 Video I tronomy where all the good chefs live? Or is gastronomy something else? I NAME ------I think Brillant-Savrain knew the answer. In the Physiology of Taste, he said gas­ ADDRESS ------I tronomy is all that relates to nourish­ I CITY ------STATE ------ZIP ------I ment. He believed gastronomy ruled TELEPHONE ( ______) ______• ______over our whole lives. So you see the NY4/91 I center of gastronomy is not based on a L cluster of 20 good restaurants. Gastron------1

20 MAY, 1991 Sea Fare Inn - "Amphitryon Room", 2nd floor. omy is a whole way of life. This is why I _. Baby food - the largest company to believe Americans are setting the culi­ produce baby food is in the U.S. nary pace for the rest of the world. We • Eating habits - between 1930 and FOTI GONIS can find American superiority by exa­ 1950 and from 1950 to the present, mining various aspects of the food we've changed eating habits. European (EXPRESS) industry, such as: eating habits have remained virtually • High standard of living - working the same for generations. class, middl~ class and upper class Amer­ • High ethical standards - American icans are eating well and concerned with chefs have high ethical standards and nutrition listen to their customers. American • American food products are accepted chefs are preparing superb low in around the world. fat, cholesterol, sugar and salt. • Technology - American manufactur­ • Sanitation - the U.S. enforces the ers are producing state-of-the art food toughest food standards and health reg­ processing equipment. ulations in the world. • Innovation - American based food companies invest millions of dollars QUEST. Does Archestratios influence each year to develop better ways to pre­ the New American Cuisine? serve food, renovate old recipes and KAROUSOS: The principles of The only Greek-American create new ones. Archestratios' Cuisine are already being Orchestra from • Science-food scientists are working practiced throughout the country, how­ BROADWAY to develop food of the future-already ever, most chefs are unaware that they (718) 762-2212 they are feeding astronauts. are disciples of Archestratios. When a ... Agriculture-U.S. farms not only feed chef cares about the well-being of his ErrYHMENH our country, but also serve as a ­ customers and prepares more nutritious EI1I1YXIA basket for other nations. meals with fresh products, natural fla-

MAY, 1991 21 vors and light sauces he is continuing to 400 seats. Over the years, customers mg techniques. In fact the average dish the traditions of Archestratios. would ask their servers how the food can be prepared in a home kitchen in QUEST. If light sauces bring out food's was prepared or they would call the next about 15 minutes. natural flavors, why in the past have day looking for recipes. This tells me Always I am concerned with prepar- chefs used heavy sauces and an abun­ that they enjoy the food. In fact all these ing dietetic dishes. I do not marinate dance of spices in their creations? requests for recipes prompted my son meats and game. Nor do I overs pice any and I to write a cookbook revealing the of my foods. My sauces are light, I do KAROUSOS: To understand this we not try to thicken them with flour. For must picture ourselves as chefs at the secrets of Archestratios-Epicurean Cuisine. the most part, I use about 1/ 2 cup of turn of the century. At that time kit­ light cream in a sauce that will feed four chens did not have electricity, refrigera­ to six people. This averages out to be a tion, ice machines, ventilation, nor QUEST. Do you have to be a master chef to prepare Archestratios­ teaspoon of light cream for each person. air-conditioning. Food did not arrive Epicurean Cuisine? One of the sauces I blend with swordfish daily in refrigerated trucks, it was deli­ is made of olive oil, fresh herbs, diced vered by horse drawn wagons. When KAROUSOS: No. Archestratios­ Epicurean Cuisine is based on simplic­ tomatos and lemon juice no food reached the kitchen it had already cholesterol. started to spoil. Chefs had little choice ity. One does not have to go to a QUEST. Some have called you an but to mask the bad smell and taste. specialty market or shop in Ambassador for the New American With today's modernizations, why search of exotic or expensive ingre­ Cuisine, how do you view yourself? should we continue to destroy fresh dients, I use basic ingredients which can food by over spicing and covering it with be found fresh all over the U.S., like KAROUSOS: I see myself as a mason heavy sauces? Escoffier made heavy Rosemary, Tarragon, tomatos, onions trying to place a small stone in the foun­ sauces famous. But remember from and lemons. Moreover, I do not use dations of the New American Cuisine what period of time his creations came. fancy equipment or complicated cook- the cuisine of the future. ' If he were alive today, I think he would still be a revolutionary in the kitchen, but today he would be inventing lighter sauces. QUEST. You refer to your own style of cooking as Archestratios-Epicurean cuisine, we now understand Archesta­ tios' influence, but what role does Epic­ * REALTORS - Serving the community since 1972 ures play? * BUILDERS - New! Med./ Prof. Suites available KAROUSOS: Around 340 B.c., the * N.Y. STATE REG. - MORTGAGE BROKERS Greek philosopher Epicures taught that the main object of life was pleasure and a serene harmony of mnd and body. He EXOYME on AKINHTO 0EAHl:ETE said that people look for someone to eat rIA rPHrOPH EEynHPETHl:H with before they look for something to (718) 224-4800 eat. So you see, if Archestratios influen­ BOULEVARD PLAZA BUILDING ces the way my food is served. I guess 42-21 Francis Lewis Blvd, (Suite MIOO) you could say Archestratios is the chef Bayside, New York, 11361 and Epicures is the host. When you combine the two philosophies, the end result is extraordinary food served in splendid surroundings. I believe cook­ ery is like the life of a tree. If you cut a ATHENS CENTER HOTEL tree's roots, it will first grow stagnant and then soon die. Rather than disre­ gard the old, we must renovate, polish A MODERN HOTEL in the heart of the business and refine the classical ways of the past. center of Athens, a few minutes from the Acropolis. However, this does not mean we can't 136 fully airconditined rooms - deluxe restaurant and use our imaginations. Quite the con­ bar - roof garden and swimming pool with panoramic trary. We have the right to be creative in view of the Acropolis. our field. However, we do not have the right to destroy our art's foundations. REASONABLE PRICES: We must take great care of our roots and always remember that today's cui­ MARCH to OCTOBER 31st, 1990 sine will become tomorrow's traditions. Single rooms drs. 6.040. Double rooms drs. 8.426. 3-beds drs. 10.545 - including . QUEST. How have people responded For reservations please contact Mr. Arsenis in New to Archestratios-Epicurean Cuisine? York - Tel. (516) 694-9133 or communicate directly KAROUSOS: When we first opened with Athens Center Hotel: 26 Sophocleous Street, the Sea Fare Inn in 1980, we had only 64 Athens. Tel. 524-8511 -7 Telex 221761 ASCO GR. seats. In ten years time, we. have grown CBL: CENTEROTEL.

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