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Member Societies and their Secretaries are responsible for seeing that the correct address for their society is up to date. Please send any change to both the Treasurer and the Editor at the addresses inside the back cover. The Annual Return as at October 31 should include telephone numbers for contact. MEMBERS’ DUES for the current year were paid by the following Societies: Alberni District Historical Society Box 284, Port Alberni, B.C. V9Y 7M7 Arrow Lakes Historical Socety Box 584, Nakusp, B.C. VOB 1RO Atlin Historical Society Box iii, Atlin, B.C. VOW lAO Burnaby Historical Society 6501 Deer Lake Avenue, Burnaby, B.C. V5G 3T6 Chemainus Valley Historical Society Box 172, Chemainus, B.C. VOR 1KO Cowichan Historical Society P.O. Box 1014, Duncan, B.C. V9L3Y2 District 69 Historical Society Box 3014, Parksville, B.C. VOR 2S0 East Kootenay Historical Association P.O. Box 74, Cranbrook, B.C. Vi C 4H6 Gulf Islands Branch, BCHF do Wilma J. Cross, RR #1, Pender Island, B.C. VON2MO Koksilah School Historical Society 5203 Trans Canada Highway, Koksilah, B.C. VOR 2CO Kootenay Lake Historical Society Box 537, Kaslo, B.C. VOG 1MO Kootenay Museum & Historical Society 402 Anderson Street, Nelson, B.C. Vi L 3Y3 Lantzville Historical Society do Box 274, Lantzville, B.C. VOR 2HO Lasqueti Island Historical Society Lasqueti Island, B.C. VOR 2JO Nanaimo Historical Society P.O. Box 933, Station A, Nanaimo, B.C. V9R 5N2 North Shore Historical Society do 333 Chesterfield Avenue, North Vancouver, B.C. V7M 3G9 North Shuswap Historical Society Box 22, Celista, B.C. VOE 1LO Princeton & District Pioneer Museum & Archives Box 687, Princeton, B.C. VOXiWO

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SUBSCRIPTIONS / BACK ISSUES Published winter, spring, summer and fall by the British Columbia Historical Federation P.O. Box 5254, Station B Victoria, B.C. V8R 6N4 A Charitable Society recognized under the Income Tax Act. Institutional subscriptions $16 per year Individual (non-members) $12 per year Members of Member Societies $9 per year For addresses outside Canada, add $5 per year Back issues of the British Columbia Historical News are available in microform from Micromedia Limited, 20 Victoria Street, Toronto, Ontario M5C 2N8, phone (416) 362-5211, fax (416) 362-6161, toll free 1-800-387-2689. Micromediaalso publishes the Canadian Magazine Index and the Canadian Business Index. Indexed in the Canadian Periodical Index. Publications Mail Registration Number 4447.

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Volume 27, No. 1 Journal of B.C. Historical Federation Winter - 1993/94 EDITORIAL CONTENTS My prediction for 1994 is that local museums and FEATURES Page heritage sites will have a busy time with an increased number of visitors. Tourism surveys for the summer Jotting on My Travels 2 of 1993 indicated that attendance was up at virtually by Tom Barnett every heritage attraction except the Royal British Columbia Museum in Victoria. Sites and museums Lorine’s Legacy 5 are drawing young families and it behooves curators, by Pat Koretchuk as told by Lorine Wong Chu staff, and volunteers to welcome the younger genera tion. We can all help to indicate the joys of learning Kootenay Central Railway . 10 the history as well as the geography of our province, compiles from informaiton by the Ashcroft Museum. Your editor was treated to a conducted tour of Famous Potatoes from Ashcroft 12 Point Ellice House — the old O’Reilly home on Pleasant Street in Victoria. This house is unique in by Roy J .V. Pallant that the furnishings and display artifacts are those collected by the O’Reilly family over their 111 years Miracle at Indian Arm . 13 of continuous occupancy. Curator Jenifer Iredale by Valerie Green has read hundreds of pages of letters, diaries, bills and receipts, and other records which date activities The Kwakiutl: A West Coast Nation . 18 such as the planting of a sequoia tree in the front, by Leonard ‘Xi. Meyers purchases of a piece of furniture or clothing, or social events such as a tennis party on the lawn. Further, Two Pioneer Women . 23 Virginia Careless of the RBCM has documented the by Zara Mitchell garments belonging to Miss Katherine O’Reilly in her book Responding To Fashion. (See Book Review on The Cascara Bark Collectors 27 page 39.) The garden at Point Ellice House features by K.W. Broderick a great variety of roses and other lovely flowers. Tea is served on the lawn in good weather. This is indeed Leone Caetani: World TravellerWho Came to Vernon 29 a site where history has been reclaimed with scant by Sveva Caetani “modernization” to be undone. Croquet, lawn tennis, boating, and other English The Akamina-Kishinena . .. 32 pastimes were indulged in before the acceptance of by Leo Gansner baseball, hockey, lacrosse and other American games. NEWS & NOTES ... 36 Is there an author among our readers who could enlighten us on the fine points of croquet? Itis difficult to imagine how active our female ancestors could be BOOK SHELF 38 in their long skirts, yet pictures show ladies on skis or On Track: The Railway Mail Service in Canada 38 skates or playing tennis in that era. It proves that where there is a will there is a way! Living in the Depot: The Two-Storey Railroad Station 38 Naomi Miller Streetcars in the Kootenays 38 Reviews by Edward L. Affleck COVER CREDIT The Nelson Island Story 39 Leonard Meyers did a lot of research in the Royal Briti,sh Columbia Museum before writing the article Lasqueti Island: History and Memory 39 on the Kwakiutl people. He studied a large collection Reviews by Frances Gundry of photographs before finalizing his selection in cluded with his article. The cover picture is of a group Responding to Fashion: The Clothing of the O’Reilly Family .. 39 of Kwakiutl women in woven hats sunning themselves Review by Jean-Ann Debrecini on the beach at Alert Bay. Photo courtesy B.C. Archives and Records Service. #HP 1735. Other Publications Noted 39

Manuscripts and correspondence for the editor are to be sent to P.O. Box 105, Wasa, B.C, VOB 2K0 Correspondence regarding subscriptions is to be directed to the subscription secretary (see inside back cover)

Print Ltd. Printed in Canada by Kootenay Kwik 1 B.C. Historical News - Winter 1993-94 Jottings on My Travels

by Tom Barnett

COMING TO BRITISH COUJMBIA the snow, had had to endure the smoke sound change when the train entered the Through the gathering gloom of a until the train cleared (along with my mountain. I used often to reflect upon the late afternoon in November 1918, the mother who stayed with them). By the miracle of the ventilation system which train rumbled westward. Banif and all the time I was in my seat the windows and produced this transformation. rest of Alberta was now far behind. With doors had all been closed, so the train Train travel in Canada reached its my family I was moving from the Red was warming up. When we were apex in the 1950s. Those spanking new Deer district to coastal British Columbia. underway the porter began making up sleeper, dome and dining cars brought The trainman came through our tourist the berths. My mother and younger sister into service after the war seemed so sleeper, checked all the windows to make were in one lower berth; in the next luxurious. And they were really the most sure they were tightly closed, and lit the lower, my sister and I had our pillows at practical way to get across Canada. The lamps. Following him came the conductor opposite ends; while our father climbed volume of travel had made possible the to tell us we were coming to the Five Mile to the upper berth I would have loved to choice which we had, of four trains a day Tunnel, and that the train would get have had. But soon I was in the Land of between Vancouver and the East. smoky inside. I had heard about the Five Nod as the train rumbled westward. In 1953 I had no idea the heyday of MileTunnel. It was a topic of conversa The next morning my sister and I train travel would be so short, but before tion amongst my elders, so I was looking woke up early. The train still trundled the 1957 election signs of change were forward to it as the highlight of the trip. along unceasingly. At the first glimmer of evident. I will mention two. One was the Soon after the conductor had passed light around the blind we opened it up making of the Trans Canada Highway through, the sound ofthe train’s rumbling enough to peek out. Not much to be seen! Agreement between the federal govern changed dramatically and we could see We sensed there were no more mountains ment and the provinces. The other was vaguely that rock was close outside the close by, but occasional stretches ofwater. Trans Canada Airlines (now Air Canada) window: a bit scary to realize that we As the daylight grew we realized what providing MPs two round trip passes a were actually moving right into the middle was really different: there was no snow. year betweeen Ottawa and the airport of a mountain’ We were in a place where there was no nearest their constituency. Now it took The conductor’s predictions about snow in November! Finally we could see only thirteen hours from Ottawa to Van smoke soon began to be realized. It got green grass. What a wondrous place this couver! (The noise of those four big smokier and smokier and smokier. It was B.C. must be! engines in the Northstar roaring on, hour no ordinary smoke. It was biting acrid Eventually the train arrived at a big after hour, was almost as hard to take as smoke that made everybody cough and station. Everything was so strange and the smoke in the Connaught Tunnel in splutter. Eyes were running. busy. People were rushing every which 1918.) After what seemed an eternity, the way. The worst of all was getting across TRANS CANADA HIGHWAY OPENS change in sound told us we were out of Cordova Street through all those cars. After the 1962 general election, be the tunnel. The smoke didn’t go away, There must have been at least half a fore Parliament met, the newTrans Canada but at least it didn’t get any worse. Why dozen of them in sight! And those tracks Highway was officially opened by the didn’t they stop the train and open all the down the middle of the street, along prime minister, the Rt. Hon. John George doors and windows, even if it was cold which street cars might come dashing! Diefenbaker. This• opening ceremony and dark outside! But the train just kept Vancouver was such a big city. That night could be called the last of his crowning going on and on and on. I slept blissfully in the hotel on the glories; in the Session which followed he Eventually speed did slacken, and southwest corner of Seymour and was defeated on the floor of the House we finally came to a stop. When the Cordova. Tomorrow would be the be and lost the 1963 election. porters opened the doors there was a ginning of a new life. The scene of the opening was the mad rush for the outside. My first landing ROGERS PASS REVISITED summit at Rogers Pass. My wife and I on the “terra firma” of British Columbia Travelling back and forth through decided to accept our invitation to be was into about two feet of fluffy new the five miles of the Connaught Tunnel there and to make it part of a car trip to snow. Everyone stood gulping in fresh became routine after I was elected a B.C. Ottawa with our two teen-age children in air, not minding the snow at all in our MP in 1953. Four days on the train it took, time for the new school year. It seemed relief at being out of that train. About the between my home in Port Alberni and logical to stay in Revelstoke the night time we began to realize it was chilly Ottawa. The contrast between those trips before. Fortunately I thought of how outdoors the calls came for “all aboard.” through the tunnel and my first was limited accommodation for automobile Back in the train, my sisters, being dramatic. No more acrid smoke! No more travellers would be and had made hotel too “little” to have gone dashing out into coughing and weeping eyes! Just the reservations (motels being virtually non-

2 B.C. Historical News - Winter 1993-94 existent) well ahead of time. few officials from the National Parks istry came the National Parks Branch. We all loaded into the car and set out Branch stood around, looking uncom Flanking this trio were the ministers of bright and early from Port Alberni on the fortable, as officials tend to do when the highways from the ten provinces, five on day before the ceremony. I picked what prime minister is about to descend upon each side. (I was pleased to note that Phil looked on the map to be the most direct them. We found good seats in one of the Gaglardi was there.) At a signal we all route to Reveistoke, which had the added rows of folding chairs which were placed stood up, the band played the national attraction of enabling us to travel some in front of the platform, and relaxed to anthem, while we sang along lustily. bits of British Columbia we hadn’t seen gaze at the mountains. Some of us had been invited to be before. What I hadn’t counted on was just There are few more glorious places there; others just happened to come how winding and primitive some of our in Canada than Rogers Pass on a day like driving along while the road was tem ‘highways” still were, so it was close to that one. The sun kept shining, the air porarily closed by the highway patrol. midnight when, finally, we pulled up in was balmy and so clear one felt like These involuntary members of the audi front of the hotel in Revelstoke. plucking a mountain from the landscape. ence seemed quite happy to relax and When I went into the lobby to claim So we were enjoying ourselves! join the show. my reservations, rather to my surprise it But the appointed time came, and I wouldn’t attempt to recap the was full of people. The harried desk clerk nothing happened. We waited, and speeches, even if I could. Suffice it to say seemed relieved when I gave my name. waited, and still nothing happened. No they were suited to the occasion, ex He said he had decided he would hold one seemed to know why. Boredom set pressed warm Canadian sentiments, and the rooms only until the stroke of twelve. in despite the beauty of the mountains. are otherwise best left to the imagination. He had already told the people besieging Finally two large buses appeared from Part of the time I spent ruminating on him they could spend the night in the the east, and from them descended the how it had come about that both the lobby if they wished, which I think most members of a Royal Canadian Air Force federal minister and the B.C. minister of them did. We got some envious glances band. (I learned later a bus had broken responsible for the highway were mem as we carried our bags upstairs! down and nothing could happen until a bers for Kamloops: a lovely subject for If my memory serves me right, we replacement enabled them and their in coffee-cup political gossip, they being were in the King Edward Hotel. It certainly struments to get to the site to play “0 such dramatically different characters, had an Edwardian look and feel: solid, Canada.”) and Davie Fulton having been demoted dignified, built to last, symbol of the Shortly afterwards a cavalcade of not so long before by “Dief The Chief’ importance of a major railway divisional vehicles arrived, bringing what the press from minister of justice to minister of point. Despite the many times I had usually describes on such occasions as public works. When the speeches were travelled through Reveistoke, it felt strange “the dignitaries,” who proceeded to line finished, the band played “The Queen” to actually be “in” the place. If we had themselves up on the long platform. The and traffic resumed on Highway #1. arrived in daylight I’m sure I would have band played incidental music while this It had been a rather unassuming, revisited that station platform where, in was going on, reviving us somewhat somewhat corny, some would say “typi 1918,1 had first set foot in British Columbia. from our ennui. cally Canadian,” affair. Nevertheless, even The next morning we set out for the Finally all was in order, the prime in retrospect, I am moved by it, and am Rogers Pass highway summit. It was a minister at the microphone in the centre, glad that I was there. It may not be on a beautiful, cloudless day. We hadn’t been flanked right and left by the Hon. Davie par in our history with the driving of the travelling long when we spotted a view Fulton, minister of public works, and the last CPR spike, but it did symbolize a point pull-out, with a brand new monu Hon. Walter Dinsdale, within whose mm- great change in the way Canadians live ment at its edge, and discovered that it was to commemorate the “official open ing” that W.A.C. Bennett and Phil Gaglardi had put on a short time before to upstage the Canadian opening. (If this sounds catty, I freely admit I have never quite forgiven them for taking the Trans Canada Highway signs off the Trans Canada Highway, and remember the kidding I got from MPs from other parts of the country in 1972 when the signs went back up, such as: “So B.C. has decided to rejoin Confederation! Welcome back.”) We got to the summit well before the appointed time. A long rustic platform had been set up, decorated, as I recall, with red, white and blue bunting, and The commemorative arch at Rogers Pass. Thefirst railway ran to the left oftbis (and was somewhere above was the Red Ensign blocked by slides down the bill at centre in tbe background). The Connaugbt Tunnel runs with the Canadian coat of arms, flanked beneath this mountain. This is the site of the ribbon-cutting ceremony attended by the on either side by five provincial flags. A author and hisfamily. Photo courtesy of Naomi Miller.

3 B.C. Historical News - Winter 1993-94 and work. Starting from St. John’s and government not being able even to ar east as I could before catching a train travelling to dip one’s toes in the sea off range a ribbon-cutting on time. back to the Coast for some commitment; Mile 0, Victoria, has become part of the Our next stop was on the highway meanwhile, she would go on to Ottawa, Canadian mystique. above the outlet of the spiral tunnels. A find a place for us to live, and get settled We travelled down the road to Park passenger train came through. We waved before school opened and the Parliamen Headquarters where coffee and sand down at the passengers, and the passen tary Session began. I got as far as Fort wiches had been laid on. Walter Dinsdale gers waved up at the motorists. William (now part ofThunder Bay), kissed was our host, and I kidded him about his I had promised my wife to drive as far my wife goodbye, and climbed aboard the CPR train to retrace my steps to Vancouver. Time passed. Presently I realized we were emerging from the spiral tunnels. I looked up towards the highway. There the motorists were, waving down at us. We waved back to them. This time, being a train passen ger, I was travelling the way most Canadians still did when they crossed the country!

Thomas SpeakmanBarnett was taking bonours in his tory at UBC before the De pression cut short his aca demic aspirations His in terestinpublicaffairs took him to Ottawa as MPfor Comox Alberni in 1953 AJ ter his retirement in 1974, be spent four years as mayor of Campbell River. This is one offourplaques hanging within the commemorative arch at the Rogers Pass summiL The Trans His wife, Ruth, is aformer Canada Highway was officially opened September 2, 1962. Photo courtesy of Naomi Miller. president of the ILC His torical Federation

A passenger train in the 1950’s.

4 B.C. Historical News Winter 1993-94 Lorine’s Legacy

by Pat Koretchuk as told by Lorine Wong Chu

My name is Lorine Wong Chu. My In Wang Suey, my name was “Wong tion. My mother had no baby carriage; name tells something about me but, I Sunho,” which in English translates to she carried me on her back in a sling. must caution you, not as much as you “New Peaches Wong.” “Sun” means “new,” (What a contrast later, when we moved to might think. Like the names of some added because, just before I was born, bustling, busy British Columbia.) actresses, mine has changed many times, my father had paid for a new Wong Sisters moved when they married, in ways not always to my liking. Of family house. My grandmother added a but brothers stayed. As the numbers in course, my name tells offamily affiliations sound to my name to “tether me” here on the family grew larger, cousins and un and heritage, but you need my story to earth, to protect me because my older cles would need another house and a really understand who I am. brother and sister had died (I don’t know bigger rice field. To meet these growing It is a story remembered in my how) before I could remember them. needs, money was necessary, but money, eightieth year, the year my husband and Sometimes I think Grandmother’s added as wages, was almost non-existent in I celebrated the diamond wedding anni sound is the reason I’ve lived for eighty Wang Suey. Thus my father and other versary of our first wedding ceremony, years. relatives chose the big adventure, emi held in August 1933. Not many couples gration to Canada, also called “The Golden celebrate their diamond wedding anni Mountain” due to tales of the gold rush versary, do they? days. Here they worked, sending money If you came to visit me in our small back to China to help us. apartment in our son’s house near UBC, I grew up in a world where men I would introduce you to all my beloved blamed women when no boys were born plants, the only gardening I am permitted to them, sometimes taking another wife since my small stroke. I would make you in order to have a son. My own father was welcome with some tea and apple pie, no different. Grandfather told me Father perhaps fresh baked by my husband, had been filled with griefwhen, in Canada, Charlie. Then I would tell you my story, he received the letter telling that his third set in a time too young to be history, too child was a girl (me). Father became very old and different from today to be mod angry, vowing never to return to Wang ern. It is better than those of the soap Suey. Grandfather said: “If you had been operas I now watch on television. Some a boy, your father would have hurried times I ask myself: “What other eighty- back to China.” year-old Chinese lady can remember such But, fortunately, fate, in the form of a story and speak English well enough to my grandfather, responded to Father. He tell about it?” said: “All right, if you’re not going to Fate has played a big role in my life. China, then your family must come to Fate most certainly decided I would be a Canada.” It would not have been easy to girl, not always a good thing for me. Later, refuse Grandfather, even though the task fate became a positive force, planting me of saving the costs for our immigration on Vancouver soil, providing opportuni was daunting. That was how it was de ties, bringing good luck. cided I would move to a land that was I was bornJanuary 4, 1913, when Dr. different. Sun Yat-Sen was serving as China’s pro I have always been different, even visional president. The last Manchu em Grandmother, sitting uncomfortably bal loving girls better than most people. To anced on a thin u’ooden sau’borse, under his credit, years later, my own husband peror abdicated his throne less than two abanyantreein Wang Suey. She holds my didn’t say anything bad about my having years previously. I lived in an extended boy cousin on her right, a place ofhon family of farmers in Wang Suey, a small our. I am on her left. three girls first, even if he was thinking farming village located near Hong Kong. negatively, and that made life easier for In those politically hard times, money Life in Wang Suey was simple and everyone. was so scarce we had to be even thriftier enduring. Some people lived in three- My mother-in-law demonstrated an hundred-year-old houses. They than the Scottish in order to survive. (I’m made their other difficulty sometimes faced by Chi still that way today, even recycling my own hand-sewn clothes, with styles un nese girls. Her feet had been bound, changed for years. There grandchildren’s popsicle sticks as props was no doctor, deforming them to only size four, hoping no no for my plants.) grocery stores, public transporta to create a dainty, attractive walk. Poor,

5 B.C. Historical News - Winter 1993-94 poor feet. Painful! I have never under immigration building where people ar high ceilings and an outhouse for a toilet. stood why some Chinese people thought riving from all over the world were de Rent was $10 a month, not cheap in those this was a good thing to do. Here in tained, separated from us, the Orientals. days. In this place, about a year later, my Canada women wear high, high heels to I suppose it was here that my name parents had their second son. In spite of produce the same effect, but high heels changed from the original Chinese script the living conditions, initially his arrival don’t deform. I think people had to be to the English letters approximating the must have made them very happy. crazy to bind their daughters’ feet. I have sounds of “Wong.” I remember we were Significantly, I remember the bitter never seen a boy with bound feet! taken into a room and given English food: coldness I felt when carrying my little But I am getting ahead of myself. slices of white bread with a syrupy thing When my mother and I left our family served on plates. In spite of the fact that home to come to Canada, we spent my mother must have been very weak several days in Hong Kong, perhaps even due to her illness, we were kept five days staying at a place called Gold Mountain in that building before we were permitted Shop, accommodation for those emigrat to go to my grandfather’s place on Prin ing to Canada. Before we were permitted cess Street in Chinatown. on the liner Empress ofRussia, we may, Awaiting completion of the immigra like Chinese men, have had to check our tion procedure, my mother and I stayed belongings for fumigation with sulphur, in the larger home of a friend, another which had a very bad smell. Mrs. Wong. She was so kind to us, buying On the ship, three ladies, my mother me warm Canadian clothes, cutting my and I shared a cramped room, having one hair, placing a pretty, wide ribbon on top small porthole and five narrow bunks. of my head. Very seasick, my mother didn’t eat for As an adult, I can understand how twenty-one days from Hong Kong to the reunion of my mother and father must Victoria. Ofcourse, being so small, I don’t have been difficult. It is never easy to remember anything, except what I was remain close in spirit over such long told about the journey. distances, with communication limited to I still smile when I look at this picture of my new Canadian haircut, bow andwarm On our arrival in Victoria, my father letters taking months to arrive. Further coaL and grandfather came to meet us at the more, my mother had to rely on others to dock, November 8, 1920. Neither of them read my father’s letters to her, and to brother outdoors in a sling on my back. had seen me before. My father had left write her replies. Then there were no I wonder if this coldness, both in and out China to return to Canada in September home videos to exchange to build close of the building, was the reason he died of 1913, and I was born four months later. ness, yet, in spite of my grandfather’s tragically, probably from pneumonia, not If Father had been away from Canada revelation and all that his words implied, long after he was born. His death must longer than two years, he wouldn’t have my father took my mother and me to Port have caused my mother to become very been allowed to return. There were regu Alberni to live with him, recreating our depressed, a possible explanation for the lations. family. blame she placed on me. I often think The “Head Tax” of $500 per person We lived in the only place available that life in Canada must have been very, (in today’s dollars, close to $20,000 each) to us, a very cold, old draughty storage very lonely for her, compared to her life was another regulation, probably the one building on First Avenue, having very in China. that kept us apart for almost seven years. There were very few Chi nese women in Canada; not just when we arrived, but for many years thereafter, very few. Ofcourse, I really didn’t know anything about laws, or even where we were going. I only knew it was bitterly cold. I was afraid, holding tightly to my mother’s hand. Through a space between the gangplank, I could see the fright ening, dark greenish-coloured water rolling underneath us. I can still feel myself shivering in my light clothing, crossing my arms, hugging myself for warmth, as I said: “Momma, lung a ho lung a (Momma, cold, cold).” Even to day, I shiver thinking about it. Port Alberni on our arrival in 1920. We were herded into a big

6 B.C. Historical News - Winter 1993-94 Her awful judgment of me echoes It was in Mr. Bird’s rental house that was more like a general store than a still. She said: “It’s your fault. You brought Dr. Hilton, the only doctor in Port Alberni, hardware store, There was one newspa bad luck when you were born. Your head attended the births of my brothers (Bob, per, the Port Alberni News; one theatre, released a spell that killed your Chinese 1923; Fred, 1925; and Allen, 1927) and of the Old Port; and, from 1929 until 1942, brother and sister. Now, a spell from your my sister, Doris, born 1926. In 1944 Bob a fish saltery owned by the Japanese. Of feet has killed your little Canadian brother.” became one of four hundred Chinese course, in those days Port Alberni and Even though seventy-two years have Canadians from British Columbia who Alberni were separate towns, very small. passed since her words were spoken, I served in the Canadian Armed Forces The railroad station had its great respond to their memory always with during World War Two. steam engines hissfng and huffing, bring feelings of guilt and confusion. Within my first few months in Canada, ing passengers from Nanaimo and Victoria.

Inside myfatbers Henry Company grocery store in Port Albern

A short time after my second broth my world began to expand to include my Some stayed at the nearby Somass Hotel, er’s death, my mother and father rented father’s store, Henry Company, located waiting for connecting transportation to another house, warmer, a real home. on Argyle Street, in front of the Port logging camps. Some shopped for caulked Located near the bottom of the Third Alberni shake mill. In back of the store, boots or logging clothes at Price Street hill on the Alberni side, it was the mill had train tracks coming right up Waterhouse. owned by Mr. George Bird, our landlord, to it. I often watched, fascinated, as Some of our Chinese friends were in friend, and sometimes advisor. He gave shakes were moved onto the trains to be fishing or service businesses, some were me a doll for our first Christmas, and he carried to faraway places. I remember my loggers working for small ‘gyppo” log was the person who suggested the change new Canadian world was pleasantly ging outfits, many worked in the Alberni of my name, Sunho, to my first Canadian scented by the odour of freshly cut cedar Pacific Lumber Mill. Chinese, Hindu, name, used until after my marriage. shakes. Japanese and English customers all came Although I liked Mr. Bird, I hated that I became aware of the other busi to my father’s Henry Company grocery name. In fact, I still dislike it so much I neses nearby. Homewood’s supplied store. won’t allow it written here in my story. I the fishing and passenger boats travelling At seven, I had to help by watering suppose it was needed, but I don’t re the Albemi Canal. The Stone Brothers’ Father’s excellent garden. Mostly he grew member ever being consulted about the office arranged trips to Tofino and Chinese vegetables, including pea plants choice. Ucluelet. Nearby, MacDonald’s Hardware six to seven feet tall! Gigantic to a small

7 B.C. Historical News . Winter 1993-94 Posingproudly beside tbeFordtruck myfatberpurcl.iasedwitb his earningsfrom Father in his Ford truck in 1933. his garden. girl. the school to test everyone. He said: “If blue-coloured smocks, each of which He taught Mother how to make apple this girl wanted to, she could see a fly cost one dollar in the Eaton’s catalogue. pie, and Sunday mornings he enjoyed flying over Mount Arrowsmith.” (I still I can see myself surrounded by the neatly cooking half-inch-thick pancakes. My have good eyesight to this day. Even at stacked rows of green Export and other mouth waters remembering that deli eighty years old, I still don’t need to wear cigarette packages, not smoking, yet sav cious aroma waking us up Today, like glasses to read,) ing cigarette coupons from the cartons, him, I still use butter to make my pan My teachers were Miss Matz, Mrs. sending them away for a free box camera cakes. Bacon, Miss Smith, Mr. Jones (a Welsh- or for free pens to share. I was satisfied to I enjoyed helping Mother, especially man who taught grade seven), and Mr. be an asset to my family, and I forgot all in May when we made “dong chay,” Samuel Oswald Harries, the principal. about Wang Suey. I began to feel Port rolling the glutinous rice, Chinese sau Mr. Harries wore soft-soled shoes, good Alberni was the only place I knew. I liked sage and salted eggs inside three long for creeping up on the students that it there and I wanted to stay. leaves to create a delicious delicacy. We threw things or used pea shooters. However, fate intervened again, spent hours together, folding the rolls a In fall, on the way home from school, leading me in another direction. I was to special way, with square corners, the way my brothers and our friends would hop be married because, for reasons of their she learned to do it in Wang Suey. We over a fence to pick ripe apples, but I own, my father and mother decided they boiled them for three or four hours, a wouldn’t eat them. I worried the apples wanted to return to China. They left lengthy preparation making dong chay a were being stolen. Even then, it was shortly after my marriage, leaving me rare treat. important to me to be honest. We thought very lonely. If I had grown up in Wang To help me begin school, Father the Alberni Canal was beautiful, some Suey instead of Canada, they probably taught me five English sayings — “good times looking like molten silver or gold, would have married me to a “Mah” boy, morning, teacher, goodbye, thank you, not at all like the water it was. or perhaps a “Turn” or a “Horn.” That was my name Sunho” — but I was too Then one day, after finishing grade the way it was always arranged. But, embarassed to speak on the first day. I eight, I decided Henry Company would because I chose to live in Canada, fate kept my head down on my desk, made be the place that completed my educa and a matchmaker decreed that I marry a shy by the stares of my eighteen class tion. Because my uncle returned to China, Canadian-born “Chu,” my husband mates. After two or three days, I began to I was needed to keep the store records Charlie. relax, then I began to learn quickly. In and speak English to our non-Chinese We were married twice: first a Chi five months, my teacher promoted me to customers. I chose to work full time at nese wedding, then at my request, a grade two, not bad for someone who was Henry Company from then until my mar simple Canadian ceremony performed just learning English. Later, I was “skipped” riage when I was twenty. It was a choice ten months later in June 1934 in the Sam from grade five to grade six, then from that gave me the training permitting my Hop Coffee Shop (my father-in-law’s grade seven to grade eight. Every time eventual success in business in Vancou restaurant). This ceremony not only made this happened, my father smiled, giving ver. our marriage legal here, but also allowed me a real, round silver dollar. In my mind, I have fond memories of my Canadian citizenship, even though I remember an eye doctor came to serving customers wearing one of two Chinese were then barred from applying

8 B.C. Historical News - Winter 1993-94 A formalportrait taken not long before myfamily returned to China. for it. You see, my husband had been about the joys of grandchildren on AllMy appropriate symbol for the life and the born in Canada, a Canadian. Children, do you? story that this eighty-year-old Chinese Throughout the Depression we both Perhaps, rather than to the soaps, my lady has remembered and told. worked: Charlie in his father’s restaurant, life is better compared to the lives of the then later at the White Lunch, me part plants that have always given meaning to Pat Koretchuk grew up in Port Alberni but time in the Y Hoy Grocery Stores. My four my life. Today I have pink stocks, peo now is married and living in White Rock Mrs. children were born and we saved our riles, blue rhododendrons, red Christmas Koretchuk teaches at LA. Matbeson Jr. Sec pennies until we owned a modest house cacti, purple African violets and green ondary School in Surrey. She u’rote the biogra at 542 Georgia Street. hoya surrounding and delighting me in phy Rose’s Roots of a classmate’s grand mother. Lorine Chu read Rose’s Roots and In May 1949 we sold this house, our little apartment home. My husband asked Pat Koretchuk to visit and transcribe risking everything to purchase our own and my family might say that I am neither this beautiful story which is shared with us on nice, new, clean grocery store, Fairway as silent nor as lacking in opinion as my these pages. Victoria Drive. plants, but I think the comparison holds Foodland, located at 6493 BiBLIOGRAPHY Hard work by both of us and our chil truth. dren, plus good management and a fate Like them, I have had little choice Mann, Martin, ed. Library ofNations: China. Virginia, U.S.A.: Time-Life Books publishers, 1986. ful fire at a nearby Safeway store, in about the location of the soil in which I creased our success. In just five years we grow, yet the soils of Wang Suey, Port Lai, David Chuenyan. The Forbidden CIty within 1991. earned enough to build a $20,000 home Alberni and Vancouver have nurtured Victoria. Victoria: Orca Book Publishers, (a great deal of money in 1954) at 2243 me. No matter how much my desires Norris, John. Strangers Entertained. Vancouver, B.C.: East 48th Avenue. I was so proud and have been pruned and clipped to my Evergreen Press, 1971. happy the day we moved in, and I loved experiences, I keep on growing in spirit. Beckow, Stephen M. Canada Visual History Series, creating our beautiful garden every year. Like them, I am honest, true to my nature. Volume 14, Keeping British Columbia White. Ottawa: National Film Board of Canada, 1974. Having raised four of my own chil My life has been fruitful, productive, with dren, seen them grown up, productive, little time wasted in useless activity. Peterson, Jan. The Albernls, 1860— 1922. Lantzville, married, I now enjoy watching my twelve When I think about it now, I see that British Columbia: Oolichan Books, 1992. grandchildren grow. When I think of it, in my original Chinese name, Sunho, was a spite of the name, you don’t hear much good name for me. This plant name is an

9 B.C. Historical News - Winter 1993-94 Kootenay Central Railway

by Winnifred A. Weir

When I came to the Windermere for the station a mile away. We were in notony for the train crew. Valley in 1929 as a primary teacher, the good company for half the community In winter it would be dusk long shrill whistle of the Kootenay Central would be doing the same. The train before we reached Lake Windermere Railway signalled one of the events of the arrival was an event of the day. station so the trainman would light a coal week. Of first concern was any passenger oil lamp which swung to and fro with the The KCR is a branch line of the CPR who might alight. Who was he or she? shaking of the train, and I would watch it running from Cranbrook to Golden serving Sometimes someone knew. If not, there in dread lest it fall and start a fire. the Columbia Valley. It followed the days was speculation because any new arrival If the coach ever had a spring cleaning when stage coaches and then paddle was a matter of interest. If there was no it was designed to last the year and I wheels on the Columbia River were the passenger, we followed the mail truck, struggled to keep the children’s hands only means of transportation. speculating on letters that might be within clean at least until they had eaten their The KCR was planned as early as the mail sacks. Then there was a half- sandwiches. The air reeked of unwashed 1901 but it did not become a reality for hour or more wait while the mail was passengers who had occupied the coach more than a decade. After many months sorted. It was always sorted, even when in months past. of arduous construction, the last spike the train was late, steaming in at 9:30 or Not many people travelled by the was driven December 3, 1914, just south 10 pm. The King’s Mail was of prime KCR in those days because most people of Athalmer, and on January 1, 1915, the importance and we stood in the grocery had cars, and the road trip to Cranbrook first train steamed into Lake Windermere store that housed the post office, waiting was just three hours, compared to the five station. It carried soldiers en route to hopefully until the postmistress turned or six on the train. Passenger service World War I. from her sorting and handed letters to the declined as road conditions improved There had been heated controversy lucky recipients. until eventually a stage service was between the communities of Athalmer Came the 1930s, marriage, and in a available between Golden and Cranbrook, and Invermere as to the name of the few years, two babies. My parents lived in with stops in the valley. The passenger station. To avoid further conflict, the CPR Cranbrook and, as we had no car, the coach was dropped from the north-south named it Lake Windermere, although it is KCR offered the only opportunity for run. situated at Athalmer. (This caused con family visits. Trips in the grimy passenger Then came increasing coal activity in fusion when travellers from Britain or car with two small children were a not-to- the Crow’s Nest and the CPR upgraded Eastern Canada enquired about train be-forgotten experience and one I would the KCR rails to withstand the heavy coal transportation to Athalmer and Invermere not care to repeat. traffic which joined the main line at and were told no station existed by those My mother would drive us to Fort Golden, hence to Roberts Bank at the names.) Steele to avoid the roundabout trip there coast and Japan. Mail service had long The train schedule called for twice- from Cranbrook and, armed with sand before been changed to mail trucks so the weekly service: Cranbrook to Golden wiches and baby bottles or colouring rail traffic became solely freight. and return. Largely offering mail and books and crayons, depending on the Then in 1975, on a crisp October freight service, there was one grimy pas then ages of the children, we would morning, the northbound freight’s engine senger coach placed ahead of the ca entrain in the airless, not-too-clean pas and two cars derailed on the crossing boose. The train left Cranbrook Monday senger coach. adjacent to Lake Windermere station and and Thursday mornings, arriving at Fort In summer the fine views were tore into the log structure. The CPR Steele, twelve miles away by road, about scarcely visible through the grimy win decided that the extensive damage was 2 pm. It arrived at Lake Windermere in dows but it offered some respite. How not worth repairing. early evening, stayed the night, and ever in winterthe snow-covered landscape The Windermere District Historical steamed on to Golden Tuesdays and was monotonous. The coach was heated Society seized the opportunity, contacted Fridays, returning to Cranbrook Wednes by a pot-bellied wood/coal stove at one the CPR and, after negotiations, the CPR days and Saturdays. end, around whose reddening sides we agreed to give the society the remains of In 1929 I was living at the Invermere would gather with whomever the other Lake Windermere station for a nominal Hotel with another teacher and, with the passengers might be. sum. The society was to remove the current boyfriends, we would await the Sometimes the genial conductor or building by a specified date. train whistle that signalled the crossing a trainman would bring me a cup of tea, for This demanded a major moving mile south of the station. Dropping there was no meal facility. Sometimes we project and a tremendous volunteer ef whatever we were doing, we’d tumble would be invited into the caboose where, fort but the task was accomplished and into the first available vehicle and head no doubt, the children broke the mo the building has now been renovated and

10 B.C. Historical News - Winter 1993-94 is the focal area of the Pioneer Museum Then when the station was to be medal dated 1845, the year he was the at Invermere. moved up the hill to Invermere to sit on first priest to visit the area. It is presumed The station at Athalmer was not re land donated by the Village of Invermere, that the priest either lost it himself or gave built. The handsome log building was the other two buildings were moved it to an Indian who later lost it. It came replaced by a mobile-type complex, a far there also to the small park. They made into the possession of a local resident cry from the historic structure that now is a picturesque complex. who presented it to the museum. the pride of the museum. Many donations and much volunteer The primary aim of the society has WINDERMERE VALLEY MUSEUM labour had made the project possible. been to preserve the history of the old- If a CP Rail coal train en route from The village installed water and sewer. time families and there is a valuable the Crow’s Nest coalfields to Roberts The National Museum of Canada gave a collection of scrapbooks, diaries and Bank near Vancouver had not derailed grant toward moving and renovating the photographs in the archives. and ploughed through the Lake Winder- former station; the Invermere Business Some years ago the log cabin of an mere station at Athalmer, Invermere men’s Association, through the Devonian old-time prospector was moved to the wouldn’t have its log cabin museum Beautification Program, assisted; and complex and this houses stories of the complex. private businesses and individuals donated old mines, ore samples and photographs. The society’s museum until then had funds and labour. An old notary public building, a been housed in two log buildings nearer As the renovations were completed, more recent acquisition, houses all the the town centre. The first, acquired in plans for improved display areas were old journals, typewriters and business 1964, was a one-room cabin hauled from developed. Because David Thompson’s artifacts pertaining to the early-day stores Kootenay National Park when its site was Fort Kootenay is of major historical inter and businesses. required for highway construction. est, the area with Thompson artifacts, Thousands of people each year from Measuring three by five metres, it was including a valuable copy of his journal, far flung parts of the world visit this probably the smallest museum in Canada. is framed with simulated palisades. resort area and take time to visit the local It soon became too small for the Indian artifacts are also given museum. Many expressions of apprecia growing collection of artifacts and the prominence. The valley has two Indian tion are received that such a small com chance came to acquire a second log bands: the Kootenay (Columbia Lake munity can house such a valuable col building. This was the original clubhouse Band) and the Shuswaps. There is a lection of local artifacts. of the Royal Canadian Legion branch. Shuswap dugout canoe of undetermined When the school board bought the land age and an interesting collection of bead editor and val was parking space, it work, papoose bags, arrowheads and Win Web- is a retired teacher, the building on for ued community leader living in Invermere, was sold to the historical society for the tribal photographs. where her home overlooks Lake Windermere token dollar and moved beside the first Also treasured is a Father de Smet and the rail line where coal trains still traveL museum.

11 B.C. Historical News - Winter 1993-94 Famous Potatoesfrom Asbcroft

Ashcroft was, perhaps, one of the most Potatoes made Ashcroft famous across years old, started collecting arrowheads around important centres in the province of British the continent. Orders came from Minneapolis, his parents’ farm at Pavilion, B.C. When he Columbia in years past, with its freighting Kansas City, Toronto, Vancouver and other purchased the Ashcroft Journal in 1912, he days, raising and shipping cattle and farm points. One discriminating customer was the started a museum above his office. During his produce, epsom salts, honey, and other prod Canadian Pacific Railway which, for many business career he inspired others to contribute ucts. years, would use only Ashcroft potatoes in its photos and artifacts. In the early 1950s the It was June 14, 1912, when the Ashcroft dining cars and hotels across Canada. Pota expanded collection moved to a larger District Potato Growers held its first meeting. toes were grown in quantities and quality building, the Harvey-Bailey warehouse beside Some 38 members were present and nine superior to all others foi flavour. They were the tracks. Soon afterwards, the Canadian applications for membership were received. dug in the fall and many were stored in huge Pacific Railway decreed that the building must Mr. Lucas, the association’s solicitor, opened root cellars over the winter. Wagon loads of come down. The Cumming family bequeathed the meeting with a brief address on the potatoes were hauled to the CNR and CPR the collection to the Village of Ashcroft. Arti advantages of an Agricultural Association Act. freight yards, graded and shipped according facts were packed, moved and placed in The following officers were elected: Hon. to government regulations to customers across storage. Finally, public concern for the col

President — Martin Burrell; Hon. Vice Presi the country. lection was transformed into action. Fund- dent — Alex Lucas, M.P.P.; President — Charles An item from the Inland Sentinel of raising dances were held every Saturday night. Semlin (former M.P.P. and premier of B.C.); Kamloops on October 6, 1894, tells us: “Mr. Sunday “bricking bees” had volunteers build

Vice President — C.E. Barnes; Secretary and C.A. Semlin related to the Inland Sentinelthis ing a concrete-block museum and fire hall.

Manager — W.C. Adam. The board of directors week a wonderful yield of potatoes on the (Lew Cumming, Jr., grandson of R.D., says it included W.H. Hammond-Basque, Charles farm of Mr. P. Parke, Bonaparte. Last spring is possible that some of the Sunday morning Doering of Hat Creek, Charles Gibson, G.N. Mr. Parke got one pound of seed potatoes brick work might have been a wee bit crooked

Barclay, J.B. Leighton of Savona, J.J. Melbuish from a Philadelphia seed house, and upon — but no matter, the work got done.) of Walachin, and W.O. Lang. digging them called Mr. Semlin to witness the The new museum, bearing R.D. Previous to the forming of the associa results and weigh the produce which turned Cumming’s name, was officially opened in the tion, potato growers were shipping many out to be 280 1/2 lbs. The seed house offers year of his death, 1958, and served the com carloads to different areas under their indi a prize of $75 for the largest quantity raised munity for 22 years. vidual market names. In October, 35 carloads from one pound of seed west of the Rockies, A Canada Works grant in 1978—79 assisted of Ashcroft potatoes were shipped out east and a capital prize of $150 for the greatest with cleaning, cataloguing and updating of and west by H.L. Roberts, manager at the F.W. yield anywhere in America, so that Mr. Parke displays. It also emphasized the unsuitability Foster’s store, at $2.50 per ton. is a probable winner of both prizes.” of the cement building, so when the federal Ashcroft benefitted from the operation of ASHCROFT’S MUSEUM: THE ESSENCE OF post office was vacated in 1980, the village the Potato Growers Association. It encour YESTERYEAR council acquired this with a view to upgrading aged settlers to come to the district. Certain by Tracy Thiessen the interior for a museum. members spoke of the advantages to be The building which houses the Ashcroft Curator Robert Graham researched, derived from having a trademark. It was Museum seems rather old and unpretentious planned and directed remodelling, installing pointed out that in previous years Ashcroft on the exterior, but when you walk inside it’s air conditioning, insulation, new flooring, had been “robbed of its birthright by the many like entering a time warp. It was built in 1917 lighting and creation of special showcases. imitations on the market” (with inferior prod as the post office; the post office was a central Funding came from many sources for the ucts), with the result that the real grower of point in citizens’ lives here as long as it was in $80,000 worth ofimprovements. This museum potatoes had to stand financial loss. service. officially opened in June 1982. Exhibits con Displays lead the visi centrate on the heyday ofAshcroft, that is, the tor through town in the years between 1884 and the great fire of 1916. early 1900s; an exhibit of Archives hold records through to the present WW I memorabilia; a drug time. store with the newest cure- Today the museum curator is Helen all; fashions circa 1920; Forster. She is a walking reservoir of Ashcroft some mining apparatus history, quick to provide answers to visitors used in the brief coal min and to substantiate her answers with written ing venture in the 1860s; materials in her files. The Ashcroft Museum and even a glimpse of set preserves and presents a wealth of informa tlers before a community tion about the district surrounding this little existed. railway town tucked beneath arid hillsides a Robert D. Cumming few kilometres away from the Trans Canada stated that when his family Highway. arrived from Scotland in 1885, there was no CPR depot in Ashcroft. The train went straight through to This article was compiled using information Savona. supplied by the Asbcro,ft Museum. Asbcroft Museum building c. 1960 Cumming, then ten

12 B.C. Historical News - Winter 1993-94 ______

Miracle at Indian Arm

by Valerie Green

Although many famous visitors came In October Meg and Emily paid a Victoria writer Marguerite West is in Wigwam Inn in the early days, brief visit to Vancouver for Meg to have her eighty-first year now. Lately her writing to the Marguerite’s story concerns an unknown a medical check-up. To her amazement has been curtailed somewhat due to the young couple, George and Margaret (Meg) she found that she was pregnant and the fact that she has been caring for her sick Dayton, who were employed by the Inn’s baby was due the following April. George husband. But she still likes to tell a good owners to be the managers there for the was concerned for his wife’s health and story. summer of wanted them to leave the Inn immedi Recently she related one to me that 1911. The Daytons were certainly not your ately and return to Vancouver so that she has always been very close to her heart. average young couple. Meg, although would be near good medical help. Her And a story with ingredients like a rustic only in her early twenties, suffered from chronic arthritic condition had not im wilderness inn, a courageous young chronic arthritic condition causing her proved and it was thought that her hip woman, and a wrinkled old Indian woman a to limp badly. Most of the time she was in might cause special complications during who performed a miracle could not help great pain, but this did not stop her delivery. but intrigue the listener. leading a normal life. When she and Meg was convinced that so long as “The story begins back in 1910,” said George answered a newspaper adver she followed doctor’s orders concerning Marguerite. “That was when the once- tisement, they were convinced they would diet and exercise she would be able to famous Wigwam Inn first opened its be chosen as the right couple to manage stay on at the Inn through the winter. To doors to the public.” the Wigwam Inn. appease her worried husband, however, The Wigwam Inn is situated ap Meg’s sister and father also joined she agreed that they would leave Indian proximately twenty-five miles from Van them to help with the chores. Meg carried Arm a good month before the baby was couver at the mouth of Indian River on out her tasks with a smile on her face and due. Indian Arm, which is the northern arm of was highly thought of by everyone who The winter months passed unevent Burrard Inlet. The building of the Inn was visited the Inn that summer. fully and by the following February the initially the idea of Benjamin (Benny) In September, when the Inn was weather had turned quite spring-like, Dickens, the instigator of the first adver officially closed down for the winter, Meg enabling Meg and Emily to take daily tising agency in Canada. He had long and George were asked to stay on as walks along nearby trails. On one of envisioned building a luxury wilderness caretakers. They agreed, and Meg’s father those walks, on February 22, Meg slipped resort catering to the wealthy, where the sister Emily also stayed on. on wet ground, lost her balance and fell, fishing and hunting were and excellent. His plans, how ever, encountered a few B. C.-SATtIRDAY SUNSET financial snags along the way. In 1910, millionaire and i’i. well-known Vancouver II’J1FJ’1 IV T2IK, resident Gustav Constantin ).ORtJ( Igt IZLrr. Alvo von Alvensleben, the son of a former Prussian ambassador, decided to in vest in the project. This money gave Dickens the help he needed. In June of that year, the newly formed Indian River Park Development Company chartered the steamer Baramba to sail up the Arm with six hun dred people aboard, all anxious to inspect the de velopment and visit the A picture ofthe proposed hotel that appeared in B.C. Saturday Sunset,August 190Z luxury Inn. Picture takenfrom The History of Wigwam Inn by Pam Humpbreys.

13 B.C. Historical News - Winter 1993-94 _____

ance ofthe Northern Lights briefly was music to George’s ears. lighting up the sky as though in Meg herself had no memory of the answer to his fervent prayer to previous night and her long ordeal, but guide his way. But his journey she felt inwardly that she had been saved was all to no avail as the camp from death’s door by this miracle woman. doctor had left for a few days in A woman who, according to the doctor town. George did, however, who later attended Meg, had achieved far manage to telephone Meg’s more than any of the available medical Vancouver doctor who prom knowledge in Vancouver at that time ised to leave for the Inn with his would have done. nurse at daybreak. Meg squeezed the Indian woman’s When George returned to hand in silent understanding. Then, in Meg’s bedside many long hours the general confusion and excitement of later, he discovered her labour the moment, no one noticed that she had had ceased and she had lapsed quietly slipped away. Next morning, she into a coma. He placed a mirror reappeared at the door with a handmade to her lips, not even sure she was papoose basket for Meg’s baby and, in alive, but to his relief discovered return, she accepted the food and money she was still breathing. On his that George insisted that she take. Then knees he begged her not to die, once more she went on her way, never to praying for guidance as to what be seen again. George and Meg named he should do next. their daughter Marguerite. Thinking to hurry the doc “That baby was me,” grinned eighty- tor’s arrival by waiting down by year-old Marguerite at the end of her the wharf, he rushed out into the story. “It was a miracle birth, wasn’t it?” cold, grey dawn. A heavy fog It was indeed, but in many ways it hung over the water in patches. was just the prelude to a rather miracu Suddenly he heard the sound of lous life. Marguerite’s courage, like that George and Meg Dayton with baby splashing water and saw, com of her mother, has been brought to the

Marguerite - c 1913. ing slowly through the mist, a fore many times during her life. solitary canoe manned by a Just prior to her own marriage sixty- hitting her head against a rock as she wrinkled old Indian woman. George two years ago, she was diagnosed as went down. frantically called for help and the woman having bone cancer in her right foot. She Emily was panic-stricken. She ran for came nearer to the wharf, probably fought the cancer and beat it. Her only the men but by the time the three of them thinking George wanted to buy her fish. daughter was born with an eye problem returned, Meg was already sitting up, She was dressed in soiled navy pants needing much medical attention through rubbing her head and wondering what all and a heavy sweater, with a red bandanna the years. Medical expenses were exor the fuss was about. George ordered his on her head and a pair of gold hoops bitant and took Marguerite and her hus wife back to bed and, apart from the scare through her ears. Her gum boots were band ten years to pay off. During the they had all received, everything seemed muddy and she smelled strongly of fish Depression years this was especially to be all right. but to George she was the most beautiful difficult for them. During the night, Meg went into person he had ever seen. He was con During World War Two, Marguerite, premature labour. It was a full two months vinced that this apparition from the mist far ahead of her time, took a job as a truck before the baby was due but her fall had would be Meg’s saving grace. driver to help out with expenses, in obviously hurried things along. He helped her out of the boat and, addition to looking after her home, her There were no telephones at the although she spoke no English, per husband and daughter, and two other Wigwam Inn so communication with the suaded her in sign language to come with young children. outside world was impossible. Greatly him to the Inn to help his wife. Once So life has not always been easy for distressed and fearing for his wife’s life, inside, he led her to a washbasin, insist the Wests. And Marguerite would perhaps George decided he would try and get to ing that she wash her hands, as well as the parallel her life in many ways with that of Buntzen Lake where there was a logging fish knife she proposed using on her the Wigwam Inn itself. When World War camp doctor in residence, even though patient. After that, the Indian woman One started in 1914, the Inn was forced to the distance to the lake was quite con took charge by ushering him out of the close down because of its predominantly siderable. room. German theme. It opened again in the A long, arduous row down Indian No one ever knew exactly what twenties with a new owner and a new Arm was followed by a hike inland from happened next. Against all medical odds, elegance. Buntzen Bay toward the lake. In near however, this mystery woman managed During the Depression it became a pitch darkness George stumbled on. to save Meg’s life and deliver her baby day lodge serving lunches only and sell Suddenly he was helped by the appear- safely. Two hours later, the baby’s cry ing Indian crafts. It was modernized again

14 B.C. Historical News- Winter 1993-94 in the fifties and operated as a gambling the outside world. prayer of thanks for the miracle at Indian casino in the sixties until a dawn raid by As for the papoose basket, Margue Arm which gave me life...” the RCMP brought those activities to an rite told me it was discovered years later abrupt end. The Inn was even used for in the attic of the old Dayton home and Valerie Green is afreelanceJournalist in Vic movie locations on occasion. was presented by George’s sister to the toria and author oftwo books on prominent Eventually, with a general down Kamloops Museum, where it now forms residents in our capital city. trend in business, the Inn fell into disre part of their Native Indian display. pair and lay vacant for a number of years. “I returned to the Inn myself in 1982,” During that time it was pitifully vandal Marguerite said. “It was about two years ized. Many of its prize possessions were after the grand re-opening. I felt that destroyed. The guest book was found before I died I needed to see the place my floating in the water and only a few pages parents had told me so much about.” were able to be saved. Her emotions were strong as she In the seventies, the Inn was bought wandered around the Inn thinking about by Arjay Developments Ltd., who reju the story of her birth. Later she slipped venated it somewhat, and later Western away on her own to wander the trails. Pacific Resorts Inc. as the new owners “I tried to imagine the exact spot also spent a great deal of money to turn where my mother might have fallen and the Inn back into the ultimate retreat it struck her head. Then I wandered down once was. by the water and pictured in my mind’s Today the Wigwam Inn is owned by eye that old Indian woman with the the Royal Vancouver Yacht Club but is magical powers coming out of the mist. I only used by them for special events. wanted to experience the relief my father There are still no telephones, although must have felt at that moment in time. Marguerite (Dayton) West, taken on her wedding anniversary, December1990. there is now radio communication with I was finally about to say a silent 50th

After the Reenactments

We celebrated the bicentennial of the exploration of our Pacific coast in 1992, and followed Lakehead University students pad dling their way to the Arctic Ocean, then arranging to appear at Mackenzie Rock near Bella Coola on July 22, 1993. We wish we could report that the sun shone on all ventures and that students and citizens benefitted im mensely. The Wake of the Explorers (International Maritime Bicentennial Reenactment Expedi tion 1992) perhaps should have been named “Against the Tide.” This project ran into both political and real currents which made for difficult progress at the outset. Unfortunate references to the Columbus Voyage, com memorating its 500th anniversary this same year, threatened to tar all explorers with the

same brush ... and doubtless moved Premier Michael Harcourt to set a “politically correct” tone for the local bicentennial by announcing: “There is no reason why British Columbia should be celebrating the arrival of George Captain Galiano’s “lancha” inforegroun4 Captain Vancouvers Vancouver.” This, despite the fact that his yawl in rear in Desolation Soun4 July 1992.

15 B.C. Historical News - Winter 1993-94 along the Grease Trail. The disappointment

• ... .•. . .. incurred by the blocked trail was assuaged by <‘; . the welcoming ceremonies held in Sir Alexan der Mackenzie Secondary School in Bella Coola. The Nuxalk hereditary chiefs and their ‘... • ., • . .- . .,,1’ families extended personal hospitality to the young adventurers. Nonetheless, the students I ,I camped overnight on The Rock prior to the official celebrations. On the cloudy, drizzly July 22, crowds assembled in a flotilla of private and official vessels supported by HMCSMackenzie a 300- foot destroyer. The official Nuxalk party, in ceremonial robes, were ferried to the beach and trail to file to their benches below the monument. The voyageur canoes threaded through the fleet, landed, and twenty-five costumed travellers filed onto the slippery rock where they faced the aboriginal leaders. Chief Andy Siwallace wove a ceremonial feather into the hair of Dwayne Smith from A “community weekend” at French Creek Harbour in August 1992: ‘pulling an oar with Captain Vancouver.” Newfoundland (who acted as Alexander Mac kenzie). “You are a welcome sight,” he said. government was helping to sponsor the expe the boats representing British and Spanish “You followed in Mackenzie’s footsteps from dition, as well as numerous museum exhibi yawls, cutters and jolly boats. The twenty beginning to end, and we are proud of you. tions and special projects. boats will serve for many years. The eleven While you are here you will be living in peace Captain Vancouver Day, June 13, 1992, with boats here in British Columbia are being used us.” Other statesmanlike greetings fol was wet but well attended. Within the first two lowed. for school and community outdoor education The young visitors, who had travelled weeks approximately 1,000 persons had programs in Victoria, Cowichan Bay, Saturna Canada from sea to sea, led in the singing of stepped into the boats, learning to pull to Island, Sooke, Esquimalt and Galiano Island. “0 Canada” and heard it echo back over the gether in waters close to Vancouver. Over the water. The Washington State boats are being used by following five weeks the longboat crews the Sea Scouts, Out threaded the upcoast channels with a perse ward Bound and a verance and fascination worthy of early sea CYO camp. Those in men, handling twelve-foot oars and lugsails as Oregon are dis if they were familiar tools. Pulling in unison played and used by for hours on end, however, gave a special the Maritime Mu relish to supper ashore and made even a bed seum in Astoria and on a stony beach seem soft. (Longboat crews the Oregon Histori sleep well.) It wasn’t all rowing. Long hours of cal Society in Port making sail on a close reach or with the wind land. astern often gave crews a chance to relax. Over twenty community visits during the This fourteen-week expedition brought the fleet information was supplied by Mr. and into the local limelight. The smaller the com Mrs. Gregory Foster munity, the bigger the response. In August the of Galiano Island. boats were trailered to Gold River to permit a Greg was one of the voyage down the west coast of Vancouver boatbuilders andtbe Island. A spectacular entry into Friendly Cove executive directorof was climaxed by a day of feasting, speeches the Discovery and dancing. Public receptions here and ReenactmentSociety. elsewhere set an example of mutual respect between cultures. Native chiefs were honoured The Route ofthe and spoke eloquently of the joint inheritance Voyageurs, 8,500 which calls us to face our common future kilometres from together. The Wake of the Explorer longboats Quebec City to Bella headed the parade opening the Classic Boat Coola, was com pleted. They stood Festival in Victoria’s Inner Harbour ... with staffmembers from the ministry ofgovernment on Mackenzie Rock. services occupying the captain’s seat. It was The twenty-four an epic journey directly involving 5,000 peo Lakehead University ple from every waterfront community in students and their southern British Columbia and the states of leaders were forced to abandon the cli Washington and Oregon. Lakehead University students, dressed in period costume, at the Five years of study, planning and build mactic two-week Alexander Mackenzie monument in Beila Cook,. ing by volunteers went into the preparation of 347-kilometre walk

16 B.C. Historical News - Winter 1993-94 commerce in Peace River, Fort McMurray and Fort Vermilion will keep in touch with The Alexander Mackenzie Trail Association to promote themselves as places on the Sea-to- Sea Route. Meanwhile, in Jacques Cartier Provinci’l Park near Quebec City, a group of French- Canadian voyageur canoeists and historians met at noon on July 22 to commemorate the first crossing.” Six French-Canadian crew men acccompanied Mackenzie in 1793. Two direct descendants of crew members were present for this observation ofthe bicentennial.

Information andpicturescourtesyofJobn Woodworth of Kelowna, secretary for tbeAMTA anddirectorforeigbteenyears. Photos from the Summer 1993 issue of The

F Alexander Mackenzie TrailAssociation news letter: 41 The water closes swflly around the ship’s kee1 Nuxalk hereditary chiefs andfamiliesfrom Bella Coola, arrival on the beach. and she leaves no track upon the sea; even the fre’ful wash and wake vanish astern as a skein careers. At least two videos The students went from Bella Coola to chosen excellent offroth in afew briefseconds. Yet every craft Fort Langley, the Vancouver Maritime Mu have been prepared. (Details on how to buy which passes leaves some trace In memoi will seum, and six different communities in the or borrow a video appear in a future and every passage and channel is forever Okanagan to present a program which had issue.) haunted however faintly, by the shps and their along been shared with many groups along Meanwhile, communities the wa seamen who have sailed them through the route. They presented a show at the Canada ter route taken by Alexander Mackenzie have centuries. Summer Games in Kamloops. They are now been alerted to their history and promise to — Author Unknown back in classes at Thunder Bay or starting their highlight this in future. The chambers of

Hereditary ChiefArthur Hans.

17 B.C. Historical News - Winter 1993-94

18

1993-94 Winter News Historical B.C. -

carrying when padding as or weather, inadvertently dancer and the Should curtain. of honour as wealth marks displayed

from protection as the were the worn behind largely before turn right a make going plaques these were occasions, emonial

but these bark, were to cedar from woven nobles. had dancer Each or chiefs the cer other and potlatches During furs.

clothing of items Certain fur with from robes. permission without precincts rious exchange in for given traders European

these supplemented chiefs and elders myste The its permitted was one behind and American No sheets, early from came

hide. deer of made blankets and aprons steeped supernatural. the in was custom rolled in some copper, the of Most

folks was Ordinary scanty. This wore rather ceremonial screen. or curtain a ofthe head large the by family. time male given

or body clothing covering behind Kwakiutl from emerged dancers the all gan, at owned were any ancestor the of names

be worse. for or dancing the When and dance. particular crests, the privileges prized. The

better for adapted times, modem the more to an of part each integral was and and generation to greatly generation from

and life aboriginal traditional the from kinds dances, the accompanied handed many then were down crests which

a change chiefs, dramatic of witnessed he whistles boards, on and beating rattles plaques family or or tribal into ioned

did as other eyes. lifetime, sticks his During singing, Loud crest. tribal chief’s the fash and hammered often was metal

flashing and akhair dark dark heavy with or owner’s the hc delineated which buttons hssoft This the of copper. was Kwakiutl

of erect and tall figure inches two with feet, pearl gleaming eeembellished were One rzdpossessions prized of most the

age. was He his eighty. six look didn’t He worn dances blankets the the during property. family Even with it or common were

he was when a man old was was fine, masks, the grand worn traditionally with connected h names the and her Even home

Mudge of Assu was community and the Cape certain held significance to alder the estate her. hold. accrued real no But

Chief late The William stature. in short and of sap the with dyed bark Cedar them. to house her maintain to required utensils

muscular were men Kwakiutl Not familiar all various of resentations creatures as n other and boxes baskets, woven items

and hooked. frequently masks carved rep painted with and such somely own ornaments wardrobes,

quite be could noses prominent hand wore which dances aboriginal they their their owned similarly women Kwakiutl

narrow relatively and high somewhat For things. mundane most the in meaning vocation. his pursuing or duties daily his

had They body. and face the on little very and significance found They itself. carrying for necessary out articles other

hair black with straight eyes brown and life of and, indeed, h mysteries the natural as aosand canoes as tools, weapons, well

cheekbones, prominent high with faces super things with preoccupied were primitive and supplies potlatch shells,

broad had They legs. developed less dances ceremonial Indian Kwakiutl abalone oclothing, to limited largely was

bodies powerful with had They heavy, etc. or Warrior, The Man, estate and land real include not did

tribes. Indian coastal general the sembled Crazy Cannibal, rzl Bear, Grizzly Hamatsa, the the sense strict in property Personal

Indians Kwakiutl the re as such Physically secret in societies members for occupation. Indian alien of remained free

world. spirit the in stature lowly its formality a them, upon native conferred generally and territory the of Kwakiutl

denoting presumably position, crawling names to ceremonial have and selves, part considered were islands h offshore the

a in danced was traditionally derworld them composed they which of many while Indians, Coola Bella the as known

cedar). un the of spirit The carved songs, of sing to dances, certain perform to people Salish of tribe a by inhabited

(with beak long very a heavens the right the marriage through included ited partially was valleys, Range mountain

a spirit signifying from above, came inher from Kwakiutl the privileges Other Coast and Channels Burke and Dean

believed Kwakiutl the mask, The raven prestige influence. and tribe’s his and his vicinity the of in portion the especially

h berries. the ripen to supposed were that and enhance thereby crests banmore obtain to domain, Kwakiutl the of Part Kwakiutl.

birds small representing had even order dances a in ftimes of number marry might the of habitat undisputed the was Sound,

others. many They and dance the warrior chief A through marriage. eeobtained were Quatsino to Strait Johnstone Island from

canoe dance, the the woods, the of spirit crests wear. to Additional was authorized Vancouver of portion northeastern the

grouse, crab, the the raven, the mysterious he crests was by denoted tribe his in including h north, the on Channel Douglas

salmon, ever-present was the rituals. There standing chief’s A blankets. their on south crests to the on Inlet Bute from roughly

dance their in represented wilds the were outline to er buttons pearl used and coast, northwest the of area This large

the of animals and Many creatures embellishment and beauty for ciation man. white the of coming the before

dance alone.” appre innate an had Kwakiutl The undefiled and unregistered unsurveyed,

always “Ours ago. years chief elderly skins. otter valuable was land virgin This Columbia.

an claimed do,” people white as dance, seeking traders Russian early from came British mainland of area large a pied

when we u each hug not do these “We of most that believed is It Kwakiutl. occu B.C. of Indians Kwakwaka’wakw)

evil. anticipated off ward the as nin such Indians Coast yWest by the renamed (recently Kwakiutl early

done be to to would have something prized greatly also were buttons Pearl The tion. affairs. Indian and claims land Indian

him and befall could disaster left, turn affilia depicted tribal the times, at and, about deal great a hear Today we

Meyers W. Leonard by

Nation Coast West A Kwakiutl The heavily laden baskets. Others were wo large enough to accommodate the entire rybody to have it...” ven of mountain goat wool. Even though family. Family quarters were screened That is how the old chiefs felt. They the Kwakiutl developed considerable skill from the rest ofthe house by a framework thought it was good. “When a chief gives in textile weaving, they failed to make of light poles on which mats, blankets away everything he has,” they believed, use of this craft in the manufacture of and clothing were hung. “he never thinks he is poor. He will everyday clothing. Like whites, the Kwakiutl Indians ate always have enough.” And he generally

In the summer clothing consisted, in three meals a day — but no cereals, does. the main, of deer skin loin cloths for both bacon and eggs, toast and coffee. Their Kwakiutl parents taught their children males and females. Blankets and rain breakfast generally consisted offish served not to spend their money foolishly. They capes were woven of yellow cedar bark with berries and roots. Lunch, like ours, were told to keep it till they had saved into which goat wool, feathers, dog hairs, was usually a light meal and taken in the enough, then to give it to other people (in etc. had been twisted and used to provide afternoon. Dinner was the biggest meal need). And they will see you as a good additional warmth in the cold winter of the day, served when the men caine man. weather. Kwakiutl men wore fur head- home from their daily chores. There was Another venerable and highly re bands to keep their hair from falling over generally a good selection of food avail spected chief was William Assu of Cape their eyes, while hats woven from cedar able for the Kwakiutl, especially seafood Mudge. When Billy Assu was a baby, his bark or spruce roots were worn in in such as clams, mussels, seals and sea father gave a potlatch and christened him clement weather. These were beautifully lions. The waters of the coast were filled “Ya-kin-ak-was” which meant “give a woven and some may have been acquired with halibut, cod and salmon. In the guest a blanket.” This, of course, was not from the Haida and the Tlingit tribes who forests there were deer, elk, beaver, mink, the last of the chief’s potlatches. The late were masters of this intricate craft. otter, etc. There was also an abundance Chief Assu estimated that during his Kwakiutl houses were of a square of ferns and shrubs yielding a good lifetime he gave several hundred configuration. The home of a noble family supply of berries and roots. The Kwakiutl potlatches. The largest one of all was the might be sixty feet long, with the average seldom went hungry. time he invited sixteen tribes, numbering house some forty feet. The basic frame At mealtime, they had no tables or some 3,000 people. He hosted them for work consisted of six vertical logs up to chairs; the men sat cross-legged and the three weeks. Chief Assu’s house was two feet in diameter set in pairs down the women squatted. The food was served in three hundred feet long, one hundred middle of the house with cross members a wooden bowl or in dishes placed on the feet wide and fifty feet high. Even then, it of equally large logs. On top of these ground. As a rule, the women did not eat was bursting at the seams with food, three arches, one or two longitudinal until the men had been adequately looked refreshments and various gifts to be given large logs were laid to support the rafters after. This spartan meal ritual existed away. This mammoth potlatch (one of and a shallow gable roof. before the coming of the white man. the largest ever in B.C.) took place some The outer framework consisted of Thereafter, the white arrivals taught the one hundred years ago, before potlatches vertical logs some ten inches in diameter Indians their ways and their culture, along were outlawed by the federal government and topped with longitudinal poles run with European utensils, dishes, food on the grounds that they impoverished ning the full length of the house. The production like gardening, food preser the host Indians. sides, or walls, were constructed of split vation and preparation. They introduced Chief William Assu stood by the cedar planks approximately four inches tools, firearms, liquor and disease to the water’s edge at Cape Mudge and watched thick and set in a vertical position with aborigines. At the same time they also his people load their cherished wooden the bottom ends imbedded into the soil, brought medicine, education, carpentry, masks, rattles, whistles, woven boxes and the upper ends lashed to the hori agriculture and religion. and hats, wooden belts worn by dancers, zontal beams with spruce roots. The roof The Kwakiutl had many illustrious assorted head dresses, and piles of other planks were made of split cedar about chiefs in years gone by. They were men ceremonial regalia, including finely wo two inches thick. These were laid in the of intelligence, understanding, compas ven blankets, etc., onto a large scow. A manner of Chinese tiles, with the upper sion and, at times, they could be ruthless federal Indian agent offered the Indians a layer covering each joint in the lower when their possessions, way of life, ter choice: hand over the artifacts or face jail series and forming a rainproof roof. ritorial integrity, culture, and their very sentences for participating in illegal gift- A door about four feet wide and existence was threatened, either by other giving ceremonies called potlatches. seven feet high was provided in the hostile tribes or by the arrival of the white The potlatch ban lasted from 1884 to middle of the front wall. This was formed man. They were the Kwakiutl “wise men” 1951, with repercussions still being felt. by two standing posts and an upper ofgenerations ago, but to their tribal heirs The government’s rationale for the crosspiece. The house was windowless, their memory, noble deeds and heritage potlatch ban in 1884 was that they en but poles were provided with which to lives on. couraged debauchery and caused the slide a roof-board open and closed to Chief Herbert Johnson of Simoon Indians to fritter away their resources, allow the smoke to escape. A house Sound was one of these men. Speaking of and “generally made themselves unfit for similar to this would be occupied by the potlatch, Chief Johnson was quoted British subjects in the proper sense of the three or four families, each of which as saying: “A chief likes to do it, and had word,” the Indian agent wrote in his 1925 would have its own corner with its own done it lots oftimes ... Don’t want to keep report to Indian Affairs in Ottawa. fireplace flanked by one or more settees all the money he earns. He wants eve- Thirty-four leaders from several

19 B.C. Historical News - Winter 1993-94 communities were convicted of violating United States. Today some of these mu the West Coast tribes from whom they the anti-potlatch law. Before sentencing seums are considering their collections of were seized. they were told they could avoid jail B.C. Indian artifacts and regalia, some of ChiefWilliam Assu was a hard worker. sentences if they handed over all their questionable acquisition, with a view to He provided for each of his sons. He built potlatch paraphernalia in their communi returning certain of the items not directly homes for them and provided them with ties. Families from three villages — in purchased from the Indians to their right sleek, sturdy boats. Chief Billy Assu be cluding Cape Mudge — decided to forfeit ful aboriginal owners. longed to the eagle clan. His mother was the items, but others refused and more Most of the artifacts confiscated by an “eagle” and his father a “wolf.” Among than twenty leaders went to jail. the Indian agent were sent to Ottawa. Assu’s clan the matriarchal system still Once in Ottawa, some of the native Others were loaned temporarily to the prevailed, and a son always took his artifacts were placed in national muse Royal Ontario Museum in Toronto. In the mother’s crest. ums, while other smaller collections were early 1980s, the federal government saw One of the more illustrious Kwakiutl sold to foreign museums, mainly in the fit to return all the artifacts and regalia to chiefs of the modem age was Chief William Scow of Gilford Island. As a well- known and highly respected chief from British Columbia, he was invited to attend the coronation of Queen Elizabeth II to represent the Indians of Canada at Westminster Abbey in London. Re splendent in his chief’s robes and rich native regalia, ChiefScow was an imposing figure among the congregation of digni taries, many in their distinctive costumes, from around the world. He represented Canadian Indians with dignity, colour and authority and received accolades and recognition from many quarters. Later, back in British Columbia, he wore the same colourful chiefs robes when he made the Hon. Lyle Wicks, minister of labour and minister of railways, an hon orary chief of the Kwakiutl Indian Nation at Harrison Lake. The Kwakiutl Indians, like the Haida, were expert dugout canoe builders. Long before the arrival of the white man, large seaworthy dugout canoes were being constructed and in constant use by B.C.’s coastal Indians. A large cedar tree would be felled by means of fire and stone chisels. The large log was then placed so that the desired side intended for the canoe’s hull lay below. The surplus part of the log was then removed by means of stone wedges and the skilful use of the adze, and the hollowing out of the log was carried out with controlled burning and eye-expe rienced adze and chisel work. The hol lowing of the interior of the canoe of necessity had to .be carried out by eye as no engineering instruments or metal tools were available to the Indians before the arrival of the first explorers and traders. The most critical time of all was when the sides of the hollowed canoe had to be spread. For this operation Kwakiutl Chief William Scow in his native ceremonial robes and regalia which be delicate the wore at the coronation ofQueen Elizabeth II in Westminster Abbey, London, EnglanL canoe was partly filled with water brought Phato coesy at dsii C4umLa Aschrves and Records Service #HP 95791 to a boil by means of hot stones. Bark and

20 B.C. Historical News - Winter 1993-94 Kwakiutl Indian village at Alert Bay, British Columbia, circa 190Z Pho cowtesy of Britisfi Coksmba Nchras and Reconds Seivice #HP 20236 skin mats were laid over the canoe to Decades ago it took months to carve had to be kept secret. confine the steam. When the wood be and paint a huge totem pole, and the only One of the popular crests on a chief’s came soft and pliable enough, thwarts tools available were stone axes, hammers pole was the whale. This indicated that were forced between the gunwales to and mauls made ofigneous rock, wedges, the owner was a personage of high spread the sides and give the canoe the and chisels made of stone or slate. One standing. No other tribe, it was believed, required beam. skilled carver would be in charge of the could harm him because of the immense Next came the hardening of the out project with several helpers. strength of the great sea mammal. At the side shell. In some cases this was done by After the arrival of the white man, top of the pole was the legendary bird fire, in other instances by applying paint poles were fashioned much more effi “Hah-hak” which was reputed to have comprising a mixture of oil and ground ciently and expertly with white man’s been the daughter of the great raven, the charcoal. The boiling water in the hol tools. Paints used on the poles were “Creator of the World.” lowed-out canoe also enabled them to traditionally derived from coloured natu curve the prow into a sleek and imposing ral minerals and oxides mixed with fish figurehead containing intricately carved oil. These paints were, on occasion, ex and painted tribal crests. changed with other tribes. They also had Leonard Meyers is a long-time Vancouver “The Wiwekae,” once said the finer paints which were applied to the resident and researcber The materialfor Ibis late article was obtained face for ceremonial at the Royal Britisb Co Chief William Assu of the Cape Mudge dancing and for war lumbia Museum and from the writing of Band of the Kwakiutl Nation, “had the fare. Mildred Valley Thornton. finest war canoes; their bottoms smoothed Totem poles were generally carved and polished like still water. Only the out of doors in summer and under cover strongest men were trained as canoemen, in winter. Most were carved out of red and they had their own distinctive paddle cedar logs. The carving of ceremonial beat that enabled them to drive the canoe masks, however, was a different matter. all night without rest These belonged to a higher category and

21 B.C. Historical News - Winter 1993-94 The Kwakiutl and otber coastal tribes carved huge sleek dugout canoesfrom massive cedar trees. Photo courtesy of B.C. Archives and Records Service

Kwakiutlmasked dancersperform. ing around the turn ofthe century. Photo courtesy of B.C. Archives and Records Service #74499

Kwakiutl house posts infront ofthe chiefs house, Alert Bay, R C, 190Z Photo courtesy of British Columbia Archives and Records Service #20238

22 B.C. Historical News - Winter 1993-94 Two Pioneer Women

by Zara Mitchell

Esther McKinney Crawford and her to prevent the takeover of land by the start in the New World but they were also daughter Isabella Crawford Magee were United States. For a deposit of approxi a time to socialize. After the work was two pioneer women in Upper Canada mately £16 , men of “good character” done people sat around and ate, drank and in British Columbia in the nineteenth could acquire transportation, a few sup and danced. For the young people of the century. I am their great, great, great plies, and land in Upper Canada. Because community it was a time to get to know granddaughter and great, great grand of this opportunity, many people, includ one another and for-the children it was a daughter, respectively, through my ma ing George Crawford and Esther time to play together. For all members of ternal line. Their way of life was similar to McKinney’s family, took advantage of the the community it was a time to work hard that of many other frontier wives and chance to start a new life in a new and to relax and socialize as well. This mothers and they experienced many of country, far removed from the poverty was one of the few times for everyone to the same hardships other women did, and overcrowding of the Old Country. interact together and to forget the hard both in Canada and the United States. In the early nineteenth century, es ships of life on the frontier. Strachan says Their lives are significant because they pecially on the frontiers, everything the in his book A Visit to Upper Canada in were among the early settlers in both family used had to be made by the family 1819 about the bees: “His neighbours Upper Canada and British Columbia and as stores were few and far between, assisted him in building a log house and it is in this way that they actively contributed usually located a day’s ride (on horseback) he married the daughter ofone of them.”56 to the social world around them. or more away. “The average farm This was probably the case in the marriage Esther McKinney Crawford was born household had to be largely self-con ofEstherMcKinney and George Crawford in 1802 in Northern Ireland. She and her tained, both in the field and in the and also in the marriage of their daughter “Daurnont, 82 family immigrated to Upper Canada when house. Everything from the Isabella Crawford to Hugh Magee almost she was a young girl — probably about clothes the family wore to the house they thirty years later, in 1850. eight or ten years old. She met and lived in was made by them. The manu In Upper Canada, as in other frontier married George Crawford in 1822 at the facture of all these goods was often a areas, marriage and reproduction were age of twenty in Halton County, Upper lengthy, time-consuming process. For essential to the survival of the family. Canada. Halton County is located near example, wool for clothing first had to he “The productive work of girls was vital to what today is the city of Toronto, Ontario. shorn from the sheep, then carded, then the rural family economy in the mid George, nine years her senior, had recently spun into yarn. After that, if it was desired century. “Light, 26 Girls were often married emigrated from County Antrim, Northern to dye the cloth, roots, plants and flowers at a young age and had numerous chil Ireland, with his mother and eight sisters. to make the dye had to be gathered. dren. Esther McKinney was married at the Both he and Esther’s father preempted Finally, the yarn was dyed and then age of twenty and had her first child, a land to farm in Halton County among woven into cloth. It was only after this girl, in 1822. Over a period of about other pioneers, many from the same part time-consuming process that the farm eighteen years she gave birth to thirteen of Northern Ireland. At the time it was wife was ready to begin making clothes children, seven girls and six boys. Only common for whole clans or villages to and also bed linens, woollen blankets two girls died at birth; the other eleven emigrate and then to settle near one and sometimes rugs to cover the floor, as children, including one set of twin boys, another in the New World. After their it was often only dirt or rough boards. survived into adulthood. In a time where marriage, Esther and George settled in a This process, in addition to her other survival for adults was often difficult, small log house and began to farm one duties both inside and outside the house, raising eleven children through the perils hundred and fifty acres of land. At this such as cooking, cleaning, sewing and of childhood was no small task. “The time they also started their family. gardening, took up most of her time. death of young mothers in childbirth was There were several reasons to move Although the management of the a tragically common occurrence in the to the New World at this time. One reason farm was done mainly by the farmer’s late eighteenth/early nineteenth centuries. the families came to Upper Canada was family, there was also a lot of cooperation So, too, was the death of newborn because of the War of 1812 between the among members of the surrounding infants. “Light, 133 Esther’s life from age United States and British settlers in Upper communities when a house or barn had twenty on was a cycle of childbearing Canada. The British government wanted to be built. These gatherings became and raising children, in addition to settlers who were loyal to the British known as “bees.” One early pioneer cooking, cleaning and manufacturing government in the southern part of what woman describes a bee as “those friendly items for daily use. Esther had been is now Ontario. The government of Brit meetings of neighbours who assemble at taught how to run a household by her ain also encouraged emigration for two your summons to raise the walls of your mother and over time she passed this reasons. One, to relieve the population house, shanty or barn. “Trail, 53 Bees were knowledge on to her daughters as well. pressure in Europe at this time and, two, an effort to help another pioneer get a Esther McKinney and her family were

23 B.C. Historical News - Winter 1993-94 farmers. They owned a one-hundred- frame house on threequarters of an acre. out west, Isabella and Hugh were lucky and-fifty-acre farm and grew a variety of Among their assets was a cow valued at to have the land that they did. The things. The grains grown in Upper Canada $20. The entire estate was listed as worth location of their farm probably helped during the early nineteenth century in $350. Previous to this census, on January make the transition from the role of cluded Indian corn, oats, buckwheat, rye 16, 1854, the Crawford farm was trans daughter to the one of wife that much and barley. In addition to those, other ferred to Esther and George’s son, James. easier for Isabella as she still had family common crops included potatoes, peas The conditions of this transfer included a nearby to turn to for help when questions and beans. Most farms had smaller gar mortgage of £75 and a yearly annuity for or problems arose. Many young Ameri dens, as well as some orchards with George and Esther of £37. Soon after the can women during the nineteenth century apple, cherry and often peach trees. It is census of 1861 Esther and George went were not so lucky. Often they were likely that Esther and George Crawford to live with their daughter Phoebe and forced to migrate to urban areas to sup also possessed these things on their farm. her husband and five children in Peel port themselves because, unlike Isabella Most of the farmers in Upper Canada at County, just north of what is now and Hugh, land was simply not available. this time sold only what they could not Brampton, Ontario, a suburb of Toronto. Around 1858 the Magees gave up consume. With a family of thirteen, most During her life, with the assistance of her farming in Halton County and decided, of what was produced was probably husband George, Esther raised eleven like many other young people, to try their cooked or baked or preserved for the children, who in turn raised more than luck in the west. They packed their winter by Esther and one or more of her seventy grandchildren. After their deaths personal belongings and moved south to daughters. sometime in the late 1860s, their memory Boston, Massachusetts, for a year to ar In the United States during the 1820s lived on, as did stories of farming in the range for transportation to western and 1830s a new type of family emerged. old days. Esther and George’s children Canada. To get from Boston to California,

This change occurred in Canada as well, may have scattered across Canada but the Magees took a ship to Panama — a usually in urban as opposed to rural areas they passed on to future generations the trip close to one thousand miles — and though. Still, the ideas about the impor values, beliefs and the strong Irish heritage from there they journeyed by train over tance of domesticity and the Cult of True that had been given to them by their the Isthmus of Panama. Their journey Womanhood would have affected Esther’s parents. Social patterns were continuing. was not yet complete as they still had to life somewhat. Godeys Ladies Book a Esther’s daughter Isabella Crawford travel again by boat to San Francisco. manual for the middle class housewife, was born in Halton County in 1833, the Upon arrival there it was discovered that was published and widely read both in tenth child in a family of eleven. Isabella the majority of their personal belongings the urban and rural areas of Upper Canada. was taught how to run a house and how had been stolen en route. After arriving in In addition to these movements that to farm, knowledge that would be useful San Francisco, the Magee family again directly affected women’s roles, the reli to her later in life. As a child she performed boarded a boat and sailed to Vancouver gious revivals sweeping through the many of the tasks her mother had per Island and from there on to New West United States also occurred in Upper formed as a child, including spinning, minster, British Columbia. This long Canada. These movements must have chores in the garden as well as chores journey took almost a year to complete had an impact on Esther’s life as well as around the house. As children grew older because the railroad did not yet run to the lives of her children as many family they were given tasks with more re western Canada. In the United States stories still emphasize the importance of sponsibility. many people had started the journey religion. Religion played an important When she was about sixteen or west in covered wagons only a few years part in pioneers’ lives before the revivals seventeen, Isabella attended a bee and earlier. It must have been difficult to and continued, probably with even greater there she met an Irishman ten years her travel so far from family and friends to an importance, after. senior named Hugh Magee. Magee had unknown place, especially with four

The church meetings were an im just emigrated from County Antrim — children under the age of ten! But it was portant aspect for socialization, for en where Isabella’s relatives were from — to not uncommon as there are many stories tertainment, and for expressing one’s Halton County in southern Ontario. Soon ofcourageous women, both in the United belief and faith in God. Although these after first meeting, Isabella Crawford and States and Canada, making a life for church meetings did not take the place of Hugh Magee were married; the year was themselves and their families on land that the bees, they did become another im 1850 and Isabella was only seventeen was far removed from “civilization.” portant facet of pioneer life. With these years of age. Within two years of their In British Columbia, Hugh Magee revivals came the temperance movement marriage, Isabella and Hugh had their preempted land in the district of New which did change the way people would first child, Eliza Jane. In 1854 and 1856 Westminster in the early 1860s and he relax after the bees, which had formerly and in 1858 three sons followed. and Isabella attempted to farm there for been characterized by heavy drinking by During the first years of their marriage almost a year. They soon found that the men and some indulgence by women. the Magees had begun farming not too far land was too much of a bog to farm and These movements altered the social way from Isabella’s parents. No doubt they they were forced to look elsewhere. In of life for women and men living in both had a small log house and a couple of 1867 Hugh Magee again preempted land, rural and urban areas. hundred acres of land. As many other this time near the mouth of the Fraser Esther and George Crawford were young couples, especially in the eastern River, five miles to the west. At this time listed in the Canadian census of 1861. At parts of the United States, could not find the Magees purchased one hundred and this time they were living in a one-storey large tracts of land to farm anywhere but ninety-one acres for the sum of $1 an

24 B.C. Historical News - Winter 1993-94 acre. A Crown grant in the year of 1889 Sons and daughters of farmers had to with the coming of the railroad, it became finally conveyed ownership of this look elsewhere to make a living. For easier to keep in touch with what was property to the Magees (after they had some girls this meant migrating to the happening in the rest of the world. The been working on it for over twenty-five cities to get work as domestics or in advances in transportation brought social years). A copy of this can still be found on factories. For others it meant moving change to rural areas and helped trans record in New Westminster at the District halfway across the country by covered port people and goods to areas formerly of Land Registry for British Columbia. wagon to start again. A Canadian census uninhabited and isolated. After moving across the country done in 1871 lists British Columbia as Church played an important part in Isabella would finally settle in one place having a population of lo,586.Macoun, 101 the Magees’ lives for both social and and continue the task of raising her ever- By 1881 the population had mushroomed emotional reasons. The North Arm expanding family. In 1861 another son, to 49,459. Of this number, 10,439 were Methodist Church was located one mile James Douglas, was born to the Magees. families and 31,797 were children or from the Magee farm, easily accessible by Isabella was now twenty-eight and the unmarried adults. It is also interesting boat. For many pioneer women a belief mother of five children. Between 1861 that along with the results of these cen in God guided them through the hardships and 1868 Isabella gave birth to three suses, Macoun lists the numbers of Irish of frontier life and provided some solace daughters. One, and possibly two, died at immigrants in British Columbia during for the loneliness that so many of them birth. In 1868, according to family legend, the 1860s as 3,172. Isabella and her felt. With a husband who worked outside Mary Caroline Magee was born in a canoe husband Hugh and their children were for most of the day, children who were on the Fraser River, somewhere between no doubt among these numbers. still small and neighbours who were New Westminster and the Magee family From the early 1860s until her death miles away, the life of a young pioneer farm. The Magee family was rapidly ex in 1899, Isabella and Hugh farmed their wife must have been fairly solitary. Thus, panding. land and raised thirteen children in all. church on Sunday mornings provided an It has been said that in “the pre She gave birth to fifteen children at in opportunity for a farm wife to socialize dominantly agricultural, hunting and tervals of approximately two years from with other adults. It also afforded young fishing communities the wife’s repro the time she was nineteen until she was people of an area the opportunity to meet ductive and productive roles, with their about forty-seven. She was pregnant or and interact with one another. According sorrows and rewards, were the basic with an infant for more than thirty years to family stories, Isabella Magee looked sources of her identity and gave defini of her adult life. Of these fifteen children, forward to Sundays. tion to her daily life. “Light, 134 This state only two died at birth or during their When the Magee girls were not busy ment can definitely be applied to Isabella childhood. One reason for the survival of spinning or performing other household Magee’s life. In the 1860s western Canada the children could have been the increased and garden tasks, they cared for younger was still very much a frontier place with practice of smallpox vaccinations that siblings and several worked outside the many men looking for gold and few became available in the 1860s in British home as schoolteachers. The Magee farm women to provide stability to the com Columbia. Isabella and her daughters was profitable enough in the 1880s that munity. The Magee family was one of the probably did many of the same things she the only other possible occupation for first families to settle and begin to farm in had done with her mother growing up in young women, domestic service, was not the southern part of British Columbia, Halton County. Like her mother, Isabella considered. British Columbia was fairly thus Isabella faced many of the problems was a pioneer woman, a wife, and she sparsely populated and, therefore, it is that her mother had thirty years earlier. was a mother to a large brood of children. unlikely that there was even any factory Light says in Pioneer and Gentlewomen Also like her mother, Isabella was work available for young women. Those ofBritish North America that “the arrival responsible for the production of just who worked as schoolteachers did so for of white women quickly altered the class about everything used by her family as a couple of years before they married and and racial structure of western British British Columbia was still a sparsely formed homes of their own. It was gen North America both on the plains and on populated area. Although the Magee farm erally assumed that all the daughters of the coast.”3 This is just one example of the was located some distance from an urban Isabella would eventually marry and have social change that happened both in the centre, rough roads were built by Hugh children of their own. Thus, like Isabella, United States and Canada every time a Magee, his sons and his neighbours, they were taught all the intricacies of the new area was settled by families as op enabling the family to have some degree management of the household. “Educa posed to just men. of mobility. Also, travelling by boat be tion for most girls in the eighteenth and The migration west occurred simul tween New Westminster and the farm nineteenth centuries was largely a do taneously in both the United States and in was another way that was used more mestic affair ... the household arts were Canada in the mid-nineteenth century. It frequently. News about what was hap the main 63 Children, signalled the desire of people to own pening in British Columbia, the rest of especially girls, were an extremely valu more land and to make a new beginning. Canada and Europe was available in able source of free labour that could help “The land hunger that lured migrants to larger urban centres such as New West make the difference between just surviv unpopulated regions was hardly new, minster or, if it was too difficult to get to ing and making a profit. The Magee but it now swept them over longer these centres, small churches that were family farm actively contributed to the distances. “Woloch, 256 This hunger hap scattered throughout British Columbia economic world in which they lived and pened to many people. As the populations often supplied news to the people far the family members contributed to the grew, land became more scarce and the removed from them. Gradually, though, social world.

25 B.C. 1-Jistorical News - Winter 1993-94 In the 1880s ideas from the women’s BIBLIOGRAPHY Herrington, W.S. PioneerLifeAmong theLoyallsts in Uppper Primary Sources: Canada. Toronto: MacMillan Co., 1925. rights movement began to trickle into This book had valuable information about the way life was British Columbia. These ideas about J.F.C. Chataway, grandmother in Upper Canada. This information covered before, during H.P. Mitchell, mother and after the time that my family settled there. women’s roles within society as a whole Gerry Timleck, grandmother’s cousin Hollings, StanleyA. TheA Wakening. Toronto: HollingPress, gradually began to change to the point District of Land Registry Records, B.C. City Archives, Vancouver, B.C. 1972. that “in 1899 women almost received the This document discusses the history of Upper Canada to a vote”Cteese, 57in British Columbia. Although Secondary Sources: small degree but the majority of it Is a history of the Creese, Gillian. British Columbia Reconsidered. Vancou Crawford clan, of which my great, great, great grandmother the ideas were present and beliefs were ver: Press Gang Publishers, 1992. was a member. I used this work a great deal in getting beginning to change, women suffragists This book has numerous essays about women. The one I background information for this paper. still had a long way to go. Certainly their looked at was written by Gillian Creese about pioneer Houston, Cecil J. “Irish tmrnigrants to Canada in the 19th women in British Columbia in the late nineteenth century. Century.” Toronto: University of Toronto Press, 1990. goals were not realized within Isabella It was very helpful because it gave me more of an idea This article discusses the reasons for Irish immigration to Magee’s lifetime. about what life was like in B.C. at that time. Canada. It was helpful because it listed possible reasons for immigration and these helped me understand better the The nineteenth century was a period Daumont, Christine. Upper Canada Village. Ontario: Mika Publishing Co., 1990. reasons my family immigrated. of time in which women’s lives reflected This book looks at what life was like in Upper Canada in Light, Beth. Pioneer and Gentlewomen of British North their active contribution to the continuity the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries. In addition to text, America 1713— 1867 Toronto: New Hogtown Press, 1980. there are numerous photographs of a village that has been This book was invaluable to me as a source. The entire and change of the social world which reconstructed to resemble a village from that time period. focus of the book was pioneer women in Canada in the they inhabited. EstherMcKinney Crawford Fredrickson, Olive. The Silence of the North. New York: areas and time periods I was studying. and her daughter Isabella Crawford Magee Warner Books, 1973. Macoun,John. Manitoba andtheGreatNortbwest. London: This book is the true story of a pioneer woman’s life in an Thomas C. Jack, 1883. were typical women of the nineteenth isolated part of Canada. I used this more for supplementary This book discussed the experiences of actual settlers and century. Both women lived and worked material, not major ideas in writing my family history. the history from 1821 forward. It was helpful for background on a farm all of their adult lives. In Gosnell, R.E. The Year Book ofBritish Columbia. Victoria, information. Infonnation on censuses from 1861, 1871 and 1881 were also helpful and are cited within the paper. addition to the work of maintaining a B.C.: Authority Legislative Assembly, 1911. This book is a manual of provincial information. It gives Morton, W.L. Manitoba: A History. Toronto: University of house and farm, they both bore and brief summaries of the different parts of British Columbia Toronto Press: 1957. raised many children in the Christian — their histories, economic statuses, population, etc. The This book has a section on the history of Ontario as well information provided was useful in relating to my family’s as sections on farming. A useful source for reference. faith. They were typical of many young situation. Strachan,James. A Visit oftheProvince ofUpper Canada in pioneer women who had the strength GuillIet, Edwin C. PioneerDays in Upper Canada. Toronto: 1819. New York: Johnson Reprint Corp., 1968. and courage to go to distant lands to University of Toronto Press, 1933. This book provided background information on Upper This book provided interesting and useful information Canada as well as one woman’s letters to friends and family make a new and hopefully better life for about many different facets of life in Upper Canada. It is in England about settling in the “new” country. Very helpful their families. These and other pioneer very detailed and the information was helpful in formulating in relation to women’s feelings, experiences, ideas, etc. women richly deserve recognition in his ideas about life during that time. Traill, Catherine Parr. TheBackwoods ofCanada. Toronto: Hedges, James B. Building the Canadian West New York: McClclland and Stewart, 1966. tory. MacMillan Co., 1939. This is another book about women’s experiences settling This book is a study of the Canadian Pacific Railroad as a in Canada. It was also a valuable source. Zara Mitchell wrote thispaper while a student colonizer in the Canadian West. It discusses the history of Woloch, ed. EarlyAmerican Women. California: Wadsworth at the University of Puget Sound in Tacoma, the area and many other facets of life that related to my Publishing Co., 1992. History, Washington. Her major is European research. I looked at the section on frontier life as well as early with additional interest in Women’s Studies. readings and related it to my subject.

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26 B.C. Historical News - Winter 1993-94 The Cascara Bark Collectors

by K W Broderick

The California buckthorn tree is had, one day, simply vanished. Those ragged and dirty, got out and tied up. My known locally as the cascara, which means were the days when every train going friend went down and helped him un “bark” in Spanish, and its bark was, years west carried men huddled on the running load the bags and carry them up to the ago, collected, dried and sold to vendors boards of each boxcar. They were mainly dock. They sat in the sunshine and talked. of natural remedies to be used as a young men, but there were some The owner of the rowboat had, a few laxative. greybêards. They suffered through the months before, been in the same position Over twenty years ago we built a days and nights, often in the extreme as Emil was then. He could not find work house on a steeply slanted rock above the cold, as they were transported to the and was desperately husbanding the Indian Arm, a fjord near Vancouver. After better land to the west. Of course, every dollars he had saved from his last logging the house was finished I explored the train going east carried the mirror image job. Somewhere he had heard about the huge lot fully, at the bottom ofwhich was of those men, but they were returning cascara bark collectors and had put to a fissure in the granite. This fissure nar from that “better land” in dull despair or gether his outfit. Although the summer rowed as it approached the sea until it with renewed hope of the “better land” to was less than half gone, he had harvested was barely wide enough for me to force the east. Emil had hopped a freight going all his little rowboat would hold. When my way through. Farther up it was lined west. he could stand the life of a hermit no with cascara trees and, as I wriggled That winter he appeared at a dance longer, he had loaded the boat and around devil’s club and through ferns and we, happily, renewed our friendship. headed for Vancouver. Now here he was, towards them, I came to the stump of a He had wandered about after he had left eager to cash in his bark at the nearby large cedar tree that may have been felled in the spring and had found himself in dealer’s and catch a tram to the skid road in the 1890s. It completely blocked the Calgary. Seeing a freight train leaving for area where he would take a hotel room, narrow cleft through which I was the west with its usual load of “bums,” he clean up, and enjoy the pleasures of squeezing myself and swelled to about had, as mentioned, upon a sudden im Vancouver for a few days. Then he would four feet in diameter where it rose above pulse, hopped aboard. jump an eastbound freight and return to the confining rock. The bark had been It was early summer, the weather the prairie town that was his home. ripped off many decades ago and had, at was good and the trip was uneventful. He They went together to the dealer one time, been laid across the fissure in had a few, very few, dollars in his pocket. where the young man received a fair wad such a way that it roofed over a portion After arriving in Vancouver, he had slept of cash. Emil bought the rowboat and of it, forming a shelter of sorts. This on the ground under whatever shelter he camping gear for a few dollars and re brought me up short. could find and had scrounged food in any ceived detailed instructions as to the Memories of my youth came in vivid way that he could. In other words, he had location of the cascara groves and the detail. They were of the “Dirty Thirties” lived a standard existence for a young method of harvesting and preparing the and of my existence on a stump ranch man in those times when no work could bark. The necessity for the huge cedar near Rocky Mountain House, Alberta. be found anywhere. stump was explained: it was the standard The climate there was harsh and the It was the first time he had been to home of the bark collectors. growing season short but, unlike the the ocean and everything fascinated him. They parted like the best of buddies dried-out prairies, or “Dust Bowl” as they He spent hours each day sitting on a small and my friend visited a corner store were known in that period of drought, dock and watching the goings-on, the nearby and bought, as he had been we could raise a crop and have a vegetable freighters, the tugs and ships bound for instructed to do, a huge sack of beans, a garden. So, although we existed, there far places. slab of bacon, and a few other necessi was little or no cash about, and for a One day, while doing so, he noticed ties. Without a penny left in his pocket, he teenager a bit of spending money is a rowboat coming from the direction of returned to the rowboat, loaded his pur essential. what he later learned was the Indian Arm. chases and stepped, for the first time in My friend, Emil Lachance, was the He casually watched it. It was being his life, into a rowboat and began fum most restless of all of us. Perhaps it was rowed by someone obviously unskilled bling with the oars. His progress was in his blood, being descended from the in the handling of a rowboat. It wove more erratic even than the previous “Hommes du pays Haut,” and, being the slowly forward and when it was close, he owner’s had been, but he soon had the strongest man I have ever known, able to saw that it was filled to the point of boat going in the direction from which he take care of himself in any situation. He, swamping with bags full of some rough had first seen it approaching. That night perhaps being too hot-blooded for the material and a few battered items of he slept on a beach somewhere up the farmers thereabout, had not been able to camping gear. It bumped the float below Indian Arm, and began his search for a find work of any kind that spring and the dock and a young man, unshaven, cascara grove the next morning.

27 B.C. Historical News - Winter 1993-94 Many of the best groves had been cut were producing a treasure trove, he down and harvested. Many others were worked until every cascara tree in the occupied by ragged, whiskery hermits area had been cut and peeled. He took who, when they saw his rowboat beach the sacks of dry bark up the gully and hid below them, came to greet him with a them in safe, dry places. Autumn had razor-sharp double-bitted axe, held ready come and the rainy season, but the grove The to defend their holdings. He found sev was stripped anyway. He loaded the eral uncut and undefended groves but rowboat with sacks, not too heavily at British none had the required cedar stump. first, and practiced when the waters were Before dark he found what he wanted: calm and loaded more sacks until he was Columbia a canyon with a stream running through confident. He set out for Vancouver. The it, a cascara grove on the slopes, and a trip was uneventful. He returned, without huge old cedar stump somewhere above. incident, to the dock where he had pur Historical He unloaded his rowboat and dragged it chased the rowboat, found the cascara ashore. Climbing up the canyon to the dealer, and carried load after load of News stump, he made vertical slashes, about sacks up to him and was paid. He returned four feet apart, in its bark with his axe. to his cache up the Indian Arm and took is available in Over the decades, the bark had loosened out other loads until he had sold his entire microform and he pulled away each “shingle” and hoard. laid it aside. The stump, eight feet in He abandoned the rowboat and his Back volumes diameter at its swollen butt, gave him six gear. With a roll of bills in his pocket, he four-foot shingles, each eight feet high. walked towards the railway tracks. Dirty, of this publication These he placed about the stump, re hungry for good food and companionship, are available in versing every other one butt to top, at he looked longingly at the skid road area microform such an angle from the stump that he had in the distance and wavered. He knew a space about six feet high at its highest what could happen to his roll of bills in (film or fiche,). and six feet wide at its widest and which the bars of that area. A freight train moved was nearly twenty feet in length around slowly along the tracks nearby, going the stump, as the shingles were overlapped east. That was what it took to make his to keep out the rain. This was his more- decision: he jumped aboard and returned than-adequate living quarters and dry with his money intact. For further storage for his bark. Next he dug the fire We looked at each other and he, in pit for his bean pot and lit a good fire in the friendly way he had, grabbed me by information, it. The fire would never be allowed to go the belt and lifted me high in the air with contact out completely and, when it was a mass one hand. Then he dropped me and, of red coals, would cook his constant diet laughing, took a wad of bills from his of beans and bacon. The pot was covered pocket and riffled them. For the first time with ashes and a few inches of earth in my life I saw, amongst the ones and when it was cooking. twos, a fifty-dollar bill. “I’m treating,” he The next day he was hard at work, said. “Let’s go and find the bootlegger A cutting trees and peeling every square and I’ll buy a jar of moonshine.” inch of bark from the trunk, branches and Micromedia twigs, The bark was spread in the sun to dry. His store of bark increased and, Limited during rainy periods, filled the shelter so Mr. Broderick is a retired accountant now (anada ‘s Information that he had to sleep outside under the living in North Vancouver. Hisfather worked for the CPR and thefamily movedfrequenty, People tarpaulin that had come with the outfit. as has the writer in his adultyears. As soon as the bark was perfectly dry, he 20 Victoria Street, broke it up into small pieces and bagged Toronto, Ontario M5C2N8 it, storing the full bags under bark ripped (416) 362-5211 from other, smaller stumps. 1-800-387-2689 He worked from dawn until it was too dark to see what he was doing. Meals were rough and quick. Days, weeks, months passed in a daze of hard work, and the store of dry cascara bark piled up until he had far more than he could take to town in one load with the rowboat. Obsessed by his efforts which, to him,

28 B.C. Historical News - Winter 1993-94 Leone Caetani: World Traveller Who Came to Vernon

by Sveva Caetani

In the year 1921 Canada became the newest enterprise of an adventurous spirit: a renowned scholar, the scion of one of Europe’s most ancient houses, and yet a member of a reformist party dedicated to improving the lot of the working man and the peasant. This mixture, which was extraordinary even in the eyes of his contemporaries, included a utopian dreamer for whom Canada, and especially British Columbia, was the ultimate haven. This man was my father, Leone Caetani, born in 1869 in Rome, Italy, and therefore while that city was still part of the Papal States, for it was only in 1872 that Italy became the independent and united country for which Garibaldi had fought, and in which Garibaldi’s friend, my great-grandfather Michelangelo Caetani, had always believed and for which he, too, had worked. The dreamer in my father was perhaps a heritage from his Polish great-grandfather, Count Rzewuski, who left his home in Poland to spend the close of his life in the Near East among the Arabs. My father’s mother, however, was an Englishwoman, Ada Wilbraham, and it was his English blood, I feel sure, that made him feel that only life in a country run on the British prin ciples of freedom of thought and con science could offer him a real home. I have been asked to write a portrait of this exceptional being. My mother and Afamily portrait taken in Paris in 1921 just prior to sailing to Canada. Leone I accompanied him on that arrival in with his wife Ophelia and little Sveva. 1921. I was born in Rome in 1917 and grew up listening to the stories of his strong, he travelled alone and often at University. For his historical labours, my travels in the Near East, in India and great danger to himself over Syria, Tur father was elected a member of the oldest Persia and North Africa; of his campaigns key, Palestine and Persia, as well as North and one ofthe most prestigious academies in Italian politics as a Radical Socialist; Africa. Those were the days of Turkish in Europe, the Accademia dei Lincei (the and of his service in the First World War rule and often of barbaric customs un Academy of the Lynxes). Since he was an as an artillery officer in the Italian army in changed since the Middle Ages. active and incorruptible anti-Fascist, his the Dolomites. My father’s life work was a twelve- membership in the Accademia later in As a young man, my father decided volume history ofthe Mohammedanworld furiated Fascist officialdom. to become an Oriental scholar, concen entitled The Annals ofIslam. In the esti He also went to India as aide-de trating his studies on the Islamic religion, mation of Stephen Runciman, the premier camp to the Count of Turin, the cousin of culture and history. He learned complete British medieval scholar, my father’s the king of Italy, and for the first time met familiarity with at least eleven languages history of Mohammed is the best ever at the viceroy’s palace an imperial guard and could speak Arabic like an Arab. Six written. I have also been told that The — the Sikhs — consisting of men all taller foot, four inches tall, slim, agile and Annals are now a standard text at Harvard than himself. Besides hunting the usual

29 B.C. Historical News - Winter 1993-94 tigers, riding on elephants and watching vital as the air he breathed. carry the more than thirty pieces of lug a poio game played by Pathans in the Before the advent of Fascism, my gage without which my mother never original manner with a dead calf instead father had already started his dream house travelled. The drayman was Mr. Joe of mallet and ball, he visited Fahtepur in Rome, but it was not to be the eyrie of Harwood himself, the future chairman of Sikri, the city abandoned byAkbar, where which he had dreamed. Twice when we the Vernon School Board, with his two he fell in love with the style of architec went back to Italy for a short period, each beloved horses. It was Mr. Beatty who ture, open on all sides to the winds. He time to see relatives and to attend to showed my parents two houses before decided there and then that if he was ever financial matters, we stayed briefly in this my mother gave the nod to the third, to build himself a home of his own, he towering building on the highest hill in which I now still occupy. My mother was would demand an adaptation of that style Rome. It is now the headquarters for the ready to travel 8,000 miles into strange from his architect. religious order of Barnabiti monks. lands unquestioningly, but when it came His more conservative brothers were His actual choice of Vernon as his to the home she had the final word. content to live in various parts of the home makes a good story in itself. My My father bought the house then and family palace and in more conventional father was an impulsive person and, there, a large family home with an ample dwellings. The Caetanis were then still having decided on British Columbia, had garden and the simplicity and ease he landlords of territory extending more only to find the right town. He asked really treasured. By the time he came to than fifty miles south of Rome, including advice of his English relatives in London Canada, he had put both his politics and castles such as Sermoneta, of which my and then of friends at the Atheneum Club, his writing behind him, but not his anti- father was the duke; towns, villages and to which he belonged, and the outcome Fascism, for he kept up a vigorous cor fortified towers, all dating from the Mid was a suggestion that he go to the respondence with many of those who dle Ages and all surrounded by the Pontine Okanagan Valley to become one of the had fled Italy because of Fascist persecu Marshes which were still malarial and “gentleman farmers” the Canadian gov tion. During the 1920s my father and I semi-wild. ernment of the time was encouraging to both acquired Canadian citizenship and In the 1890s there also began his settle in B.C. My father was then shown since this change was registered in Italy, political career as a member ofthe Radical a map of the Okanagan and laid his finger we were both freed from any dual citi Socialist Party, which was led by Leonide at random on its mid-point, Vernon. He zenship. Bissolati, one of the noblest men my thereupon got the tickets for himself, my For my mother, it was a lonely ex father ever knew and who became prime mother and me, plus my mother’s Danish istence. Fluent in French but not in English, minister of Italy during the First World secretary, Miss Juul, and an Italian serv she had few with whom she could carry War. The party was attempting to reform ant. Thomas Cook and Sons also provided on a conversation outside her own home the Italian social system, allowing the him with the name of the real estate agent and she was, moreover, a shy and re working classes the kind offreedoms and in Vernon, Cossitt, Lloyd and Beatty. served woman, of great determination rights which are now a commonplace My father telegraphed requesting to but with none of my father’s adventurous here in Canada, such as the right to strike, be met at the station by a representative spirit. Being thousands of miles from her to have decent minimum wages, medical of this firm, that he might inspect what beloved Rome, and Paris, the fashionable care and education, as well as a political ever large homes were available. He also shops she had frequented, the theatres voice in their own futures. My father even asked to be met by a delivery wagon to and opera houses and bookshops, made persuaded his father to donate land to the sharecroppers so that they might at last have some farms of their own. My father had been to British Co lumbia in 1890 on a hunting trip with an Italian friend, Count Schiebler, and had spent several months in the Kootenays, spellbound by the beauty of the country, the mountains, the unadulterated fresh ness, and the directness and simplicity of the life there. With the arrival ofMussolini and Fascism, which to my father’s great horror was welcomed by the Italian king, he felt that Italy was heading for the kind of repression he abominated. Though his only personal contact with Mussolini was in acting as Gaetano Salvemini’s second in the latter’s duel with the future duce, in which Mussolini was wounded, he knew he would find existence under Fascism to be intolerable. Life in Canada therefore promised a freedom that was to him as Mrs. Caetan4 Sveva and MissJuuI at Kalamalka Lake, 1925.

30 B.C. Historical News - Winter 1993-94 fear of my leaving her to get married or to only went back to it seriously in my fifties have a career, demanded my constant and sixties, and at this advanced age attendance, she never denied me an actually undertook my largest project, the endless supply of books, ordered specially series of water-colour paintings which I . from England by the crate. All my spare called “Recapitulation” and that celebrates time was devoted to this reading and it my father’s and my own “worlds of the was this that allowed me to survive mind.” In doing these works, I felt I was twenty-five years of isolation. My favour paying my own tribute to the exceptional ite subjects reflected my father’s love of spirit that had always been the inspiration history and both my parents’ passionate of my life. interest in literature. After my mother’s death in 1960, I Miss Cae(ani lives in the home her father had to earn my own living, which I did by purchasedin 1921. It is designated a heritage borne although it has been subdivided into teaching both elementary and secondary apartments. This borne is to become the art school. To this day some of my students centrefor the city of Vernon, a bequest which are still my faithful friends. I had painted includesfundsfor maintenance ofthe house as a child and as a young woman, but I and the one acre ofornamental garden.

‘:.i •‘N’

Mr. Caetani and ‘Doggie” bringing bornefirewoodfor the Pleasant Valley mansion, 1926 or ‘2Z her withdraw into herself and she made only a couple of friends in Vernon, the only two who could speak French. After my father’s death she went into complete seclusion. In the meantime, my father bought an orchard and worked it himself, hap pily. He also bought lots above the BX The Caetani Residence on Pleasant Valley Road in Vernon district near Vernon, where he taught Photo courtesy of Greater Vernon Museum & Archives. himself to log trees and provided the entire supply of cordwood needed to heat our house until long after his death. He revelled in wearing working clothes, CANADIAN PACIFIc driving a small truck, handling his tools and walking downtown every day to get OKANAGAN VALLEY the mail, which he carried home in a RAIL. AND STEAMER LINE — flowered bag my mother would dearly READ DOWN READ Up Miles TABLE 117 have wished to persuade him to throw 707 ------—_.... away. A.M. (Pacific Time) It always seemed to my mother and t 7.15 0.0 Lv. .PENTIcTON (C) (Table 122).. ii I t 8.40.... C 7.5 H.I Naramat I 8.00 0 myself, and to those who loved him in C 8.2 10.0 SummarlandO I 7.50 I 9.25 41.1 p..ohland 6.50 Italy, that in the midst of this innocent and W..tbank E .... C t happy life it was the cruelest of fates for I0!5 •1 K.I.wnaQ(C) k 5.25 ::• 75.0 WII.on him to develop cancer. He whose rela t 78.1 Okan.g.nC.ntr t 11 86 Nahun tives lived mostly into their nineties died zo 7 Fintry J in his mid-sixties on Christmas Day, 1935. e 91.0 Sunnywold j I. 99.( Ewing .1 I was then eighteen and almost overnight — 7 KIIIIn.y J became my mother’s factotum in all her 1• 101 .1 WhIt.mae j I .3f l04.l OKANAAN LANDINS....{_ dealings with the outside world. I had 3. 3( 4. 2 108.8 V.rnonO(C) 1.10 been to school in Vancouver at Crofton 4.41 116.9 LarkIn — 12.16 4.5; 123.3 ArmstrongO 11.55 House and, earlier, had had English gov 5.21 132.0 End.rby 11.35 emesses to provide me with an English 5.35 137.6 Grlndrod 11.20 Mar. w 5.4; 142 11.08 upbringing. I spoke English before I a- t 6.1’ 155.0 Ar SICAMOUS (Table 9) Lv tlO.40 spoke Italian and while my mother, in p.c. A.M.

31 B.C. 1-listorical News - Winter 1993-94 The Akamina-Kisbinena

by Leo Gansner

OnJuly3l, 1861, Lieut. Charles Wilson the mountains at the Summit Camp. One saw distant mountains which he called returned over South Kootenay Pass from of Wilson’s colleagues, veterinarian J.K. the Steeples. Following the Elk down a brief visit to the Waterton Lakes. With Lord, wrote of the camp that: stream, he named a wall of mountains on two companions, he turned southerly the east side of the river Galton’s Range from the well-beaten Indian trail to reach It is placed in a snug nook under a after an English scientist. Before him Forum Lake some miles away. He climbed massive slaty kind of mountain; stretched the Tobacco Plains which ex 1,500 feet above the lake over bare rock there is little to be seen from it save tended into the United States where he to reach the height of the Rocky Moun rugged hilltops and snow. Near the met a large camp of Kootenay Indians. tains. On his way he looked down on terminal point of the Boundary line He learned from them of a more south Akamina Pass, much lower in elevation is the watershed, and it is hardly an erly pass which led to near ChiefMountain than South Kootenay Pass but “choked exaggeration to say one may sit and on the east. Blakiston immediatelydecided up with piles of fallen timber and drift smoke his pipe with one foot in the to recross the Rockies by this route. wood.” water that finds its way into the Passing through the northwest corner of At last he stood beside the final stone Atlantic, whilst the other is bathed today’s Glacier National Park, he reached cairn marking the international boundary. in that flowing into the Pacific. the junction of Kishinena Creek and the The cairn also was the most southerly Flathead River. point on the future boundary between Wilson and members of the survey Regaining British territory soon af the provinces of British Columbia and crew were not the first whites to penetrate terward, Blakiston with a party of Alberta. Wilson had spent three years as this uninhabited and spectacular country. Kootenay Indians followed a track up the the secretary and supply officer of the In August 1858, Lieut. Thomas Blakiston creek. Though it was still early Septem British Boundary Commission. The of the Palliser Expedition left Old Bow ber, they encountered snow between commission was headed by Capt. J.S. Fort with three half-breed voyageurs, an two and four feet in depth at what today Hawkins of the Royal Engineers and Indian hunter, saddle horses and pack are called the Akamina Meadows. Then, consisted of Charles Wilson as well as animals. He was on his way to seek a new turning northward, they climbed to what two astronomers, a geologist, a naturalist, pass over the southern Rockies. After Blakiston again referred to as the water and a veterinarian who also was the eight days, his party crossed the Crowsnest shed. It was the summit ofSouth Kootenay assistant naturalist. River and then encountered a well-beaten Pass, at an elevation of 6,900 feet, which The survey commenced at Point trail used by Kootenay Indians while Blakiston called Boundary Pass. It is Roberts in colonial British Columbia and travelling to and from their buffalo hunts. seven miles north of the international proceeded relentlessly over meadows, Being in a new country, Blakiston began boundary. By a zigzag track he began a swamps, through heavy timber, up steep naming peaks, mountain ranges and other steep descent and after twelve strenuous mountainsides, over wide rivers and features. On reaching the height of the hours stopped with the Indians on a level smaller streams until reaching its desti Indian trail, he reported: patch of ground. On his way he had nation at the crest of the Rockies. The noticed that: We were now on the watershed of survey of the-boundary from the east was the mountains, the great axis of Magnificent cliffs and cascades of not to reach the mountains until some America. snow water falling down the narrow years later. The western survey had been gullies added motion to the grandeur completed just before Wilson arrived at Blakiston called this Kootanie Pass, of the scene. the cairn. He was so impressed by the though it is now known as Middle view that he wrote in his diary (the Kootenay Pass. Looking below, he saw a The party continued next day along original of which is in the provincial river in a deep valley which he realized Red-stone Creek, subsequently called archives in Victoria): must be the Flathead. Ascending a tribu Blakiston Brook and finally known as tary of that river, he reached a high ridge Pass Creek, then emerged on the plains The view from this point was very and followed Lodgepole Creek down to and camped beside the Waterton Lakes. fine, precipices and peaks, glaciers its junction with the Wigwam River. There Blakiston named them after an eccentric and rocks all massed together in he observed a mountain which he called English ornithologist. Here he found that such a glorious way that I cannot the North Bluff, now Mt. Broadwood, the boundary passed just over Chief attempt to describe it. which because of its distinctive confor Mountain. It was then time for the ex Other members of the commission mation is known locally as the China plorer to turn northwards so as to reach had been encamped below the apex of Wall. Continuing toward the Elk River, he the expedition’s winter quarters in Fort

32 B.C. Historical News - Winter 1993-94 Edmonton. that one day he would return to spend the being reconsidered and in 1911 was The British Boundary Commission rest of his life there. Blakiston’s nomen renamed Waterton Lakes National Park. had access to Blakiston’s report and clature already had been forgotten and Notwithstanding the elevation to national adopted his nomenclature, much ofwhich the lakes, because they were frequented park status, Kootenai, now park super is still unchanged today. by the Kootenays, were called after these intendent, and his supporters were frus A year later, in September 1859, Dr. Indians. trated by the example of what was being James Hector, another member of the Brown’s partners nicknamed him done in Glacier National Park where Palliser Expedition, having crossed the “Kootenai” and the name stuck. Travel “thousands ofdollars are being expended, Rockies by way of Howse Pass, contin ling in the vicinity of the South Sas (and) miles of good roads built.” ued down the Kootenay to the boundary katchewan River, they survived an attack At last, in June 1914, the park line, after which he arrived at the Kootenay by Blackfoot Indians. Kootenai separated boundaries were revised to include an Indians’ camp. There he received news of from his partners and spent most of the area of 423 square miles which extended a group of eight Americans who had winter in a Metis settlement. He learned to the international boundary and became started over Boundary Pass en route from the Cree language and continued further a well-known game reserve. The ex Fort Benton on their way to the rich sand east by horse-drawn sleigh. Then came a tended boundaries called for a new su bars of the Fraser River. The party’s new and exciting period of his life as a perintendent and Kootenai’s former as passage over the pass was marked by the pony express rider in the Dakota Terri sistant, Robert Cooper, was appointed to failure of their provisions and the ex tory. In April 1869 he was hired by the take his place. Repeated illnesses brought haustion of their horses. Food and fresh U.S. Army to carry the mail. In the course on Kootenai’s death on July 16, 1916. horses were sent to them. This must have of his service, he and a companion were Today Waterton Lakes National Park been the very same party referred to by captured by Sitting Bull and his Sioux covers 525 square miles, being only one- Clara Graham in Fur and Gold in the followers but managed to escape during eighth the size of Glacier National Park. Kootenays. The group consisted of six darkness. When his mail contract had Alex Stavely Hill, a wealthy English Americans and two Canadians, one of expired, Kootenai with his Indian wife barrister and shareholder in the Oxley whom was JohnJessop, a school teacher, returned to Canada in 1877 over the Ranch Co., has left his impression of his who later became British Columbia’s first Whoop-up Trail. He settled beside the first meeting with Kootenai Brown: superintendent of education. Kootenay Lakes and supported himself He was ... wild Blakiston and Wilson were members as a hunter, fisherman and guide. a Indian-looking fellow ... with his long dark hair of the well-to-do English gentry, each The District of Alberta, formerly part and moccasins had not much of being talented and well educated. In of the Northwest Territory, was created in the European remaining about 1861 two young Irishmen, less favoured 1882. As settlers arrived, large cattle his ap pearance. by circumstances, each with military ex ranches, financed by English and eastern perience as junior officers, left England capital, became prevalent. Kootenai On September 14, 1883, Hill’s party, for British Columbia. They were Arthur Brown was well known in the area sur consisting of himself, Lord Lathom, two W. Vowell and John G. Brown. They rounding Fort McLeod. He bred and servants, four saddle horses and five pack arrived in the Cariboo at the peak of the i:rained horses which he sold and was horses, set out for Boundary Pass. At the gold rush. Vowell soon left for Victoria employed from time to time by the North summit of the pass they found a saxifrage where he later joined the civil service. At West Mounted Police. He gained a growing among the rocks, along with one time he was the gold commissioner reputation as a dependable scout, guide other alpine plants. On descending the and magistrate in the East Kootenay, and packer. By 1893 he and other residents western slopes, they encountered warm where Vowell Peak and the Vowell Glacier had become concerned that campers and temperatures as they travelled over the bear his name. holidayers were cutting down shade trees Indian trail which was little changed Brown left the Cariboo after trapping near the lakes, leaving camp fires burning since Blakiston had followed it a quarter and mining for several years. By 1865 he and committing other acts of vandalism. of a century before. Due to the lateness of had become a constable at Wild Horse Wildlife, including grizzly bears, moun the season, they saw few wild flowers in Creek, Following an unexpected reduc tain goats, bighorn sheep and deer, were bloom but found many berries. They tion in pay, he resigned and with four threatened. G.M. Dawson commented: were greatly impressed by the height and others staked a placer claim. They sold it girth of coniferous trees and continued that the scenery at the lakes was to a company of Chinese and with the on the route to the Tobacco Plains not equalled in grandeur in any where proceeds set out to cross the mountains there was a settlement other part of the mountains. ofKootenaylndians by way of South Kootenay Pass. The led by Chief Edwards. existence of this route must have become Finally, in 1895, the Kootenay Forest In 1917 the Chief Superintendent of fairly common knowledge during the Reserve was established under federal Dominion Parks recommended that the preceding four or five years. There is no legislation and Kootenai was appointed a southeast corner of British Columbia be record of their travel except for their fishery officer. A fiercely dedicated con come a national park. Pressure for the arrival at the Kootenay Lakes. Brown was servationist, he became a forest ranger in establishment of a provincial park there so captivated by the surrounding peaks the reserve in 1910 due, in part, to the was repeated in 1927, 1930, 1938, 1962, and by the soft rose and green argillite efforts ofJohn Herron, MP. With increas 1974 and 1977. A large use, recreation cliffs reflected in both lakes, he decided ing interest, the status of the reserve was and enjoyment area for the public in

33 B.C. Historical News - Winter 1993-94 favour of the Ministry of Parks was estab A park, if and when established, would The establishment of a world-wide lished in 1956. It provided little, if any, provide a large measure of protection to network of reserves known as Man and protection. Proposals for ecological re the two adjoining national parks. the Biosphere includes two such reserves serves made in 1970 and 1975 were The main spine of the Rocky Moun in Canada, one the Mt. St. Hilaire Nature rejected by the provincial government. tains extending from South Kootenay Conservancy Center in Quebec, and the In October 1985, British Columbia’s Pass into Glacier National Park is the other in Waterton Lakes National Park. Environment Minister appointed a spe source of three great rivers which flow Glacier National Park in Montana has cial advisory committee on wilderness into Hudson Bay, the Gulf of Mexico and been similarly designated. The program preservation to review land use issues in the Pacific Ocean. Late in the last century is sponsored by the United Nations Edu sixteen key areas of the province. The the term Crown Jewel of the Continent cational, Scientific and Cultural Organi committee’s terms of reference included was applied to this area of glaciated zation (UNESCO). Biosphere reserves the following, to be found in appendix A peaks and mountain steams (since abbre have no legal boundaries and their ob to the committee’s report: viated to Crown of the Continent). jectives of focusing on wise land use The Advisory Committee recom management, education and integration Having regard to the existing limits mended that as Class A Park designation with local inhabitants are not legally on, and the best use of, the forest, was achieved the area should be dedi enforceable. The Waterton Biosphere mineral, agricultural, water and fish cated to the International Biosphere pro Reserve established in 1979 was superim resources of the Province, which of gram. posed on Waterton Lakes National Park. (16) areas or parts thereofare of such rec reational, ecological or aesthetic importance that they should be ex cluded from these uses, taking into account ex isting rights and the costs that would be in curred by the people of British Columbia as a result of such exclu sions. BRITISH COLUMBIA Crowsnest Pass One of the commit tee’s nineteen “study ar eas” was the Akamina Kishinena where the committee dealt with a ) proposal for a provincial A shinena Peak park of some 20,000 hec 7ALBERTA tares. This study area lies — Middle Kootenay Pass east of the Flathead River extending as far as the Alberta boundary. It is bounded on the south by Kootenay Pass the international bound Tobacco Plains Waterton ary and on the north by /1 49, USA I A Chiet Mountain Sage Creek, a distance of Glacier Park about nine miles from that boundary. The special MONTANA advisory committee in 1986 recommended that a class A park should be established to include the drainages of Starvation and North Kintla Creeks, including the drainage of Akamina creek upstream from the junction with Grizzly Gulch. Such a class

34 B.C. Historical News - Winter 1993.94 In 1981 the park initiated a workshop of logging trucks. He is apprehensive Labrador tea, as well as two subspecies of attended by park staff, university re that their tolerance to human activity will cinquefoil. Included among the wild searchers, federal and provincial agen jeopardize their survival. It is obvious flowers not found elsewhere in British cies and several local ranchers. The that these magnificent animals require a Columbia are a pygmy poppy, subspe result has been to form a local manage wilderness which is undisturbed. Much cies of saxifrage, monkey-flowers and tall ment committee which includes four of the funding for Dr. McLellan’s research Michaelmas daisies of the aster family. ranchers and two park staff, of whom the has come from the Untied States where The fragility of the plants on the sub Park Superintendent is one. Public the grizzly is protected by the Federal alpine slopes is such that any form of awareness of environmental problems Endangered Species Act. The Americans resource extraction and even recreation and lessons on how to deal with them are anxious to bring back the grizzly to calls for extensive management con have highlighted local programs. A letter designated areas in the northwestern states straints. from the Southern Interior Regional of and are hopeful that some British Colum This recreation area is staffed from fice of the Ministry of Parks states that bia bears will find their way into Glacier June 15 to Labour Day each summer. they are coordinating their management National Park. Work has been done to improve the trail policies with the adjoining Waterton Lakes Rocky Mountain wolves are on the to Wall Lake, and two primary back- and Glacier National Parks and with the endangered species list in Montana. Diane country campsites (each with ten pads, principles of the Man and the Biosphere Boyd, an American wolf researcher, came fire rings and toilets) have been created. programs. Until a Class A Park is created to the Canadian side of the Flathead Now, in the fall of 1993, the 10915 hec in the Akamina-Kishinena there will no Valley in 1979 when there was only a tares of Akimena-Kishinina is being basis for seeking international designa single female wolf in the area. About two evaluated under Protected Area Strategy tion as the Man and the Biosphere years later it was joined by a black male. reviews. It is being looked at by the East program was envisaged by the Wilder The wolves are believed to have denned Kootenay Round Table of C.O.R.E. ness Advisory Committee. If and when in Glacier National Park. The increase in (Commission of Resources and Environ that designation is achieved there will be population has resulted in the wolves ment) which has decided to reconsider the opportunity and impetus for wildlife unknowingly crossing and recrossing the this area in the southeast corner of British managers, hunters, foresters, biologists, International Boundary. Columbia for possible upgrading to a botanists, naturalists and outdoorsmen to Over the centuries subspecies of some Class A Park. meet and address the area’s environmen mammals and plants have developed in tal concerns. The program will be joined the study area. The Wilderness Advisory to those in the contiguous National Parks Committee mentioned a rare subspecies Judge Gansner loved to bike in wilderness and under its umbrella research leading of Mountain Goat to be found in these areas in both the East and West Kootenay. Now retired and living in Cranbrook be re to improved land management will be mountains. A significant portion of the searcbedtbe history oftbeAkamina-Kishinena promoted. northern extension of Shiras Moose is on to augment environmental pleas for protec In 1987 the International Joint Com these slopes. Wildlife managers are seek tion ofthis area mission ruled against a proposed coal ing a separate status for these animals for BIBLIOGRAPHY mine that would have damaged the Boone and Crocket trophy records dealing 1. Mapping the Frontle, Charles William Wilson, spawning runs of bull trout into Cabin with antler measurements. The abundant edited byGeorge Stanley, 1969, MacMillan ofCanada. and Howell Creeks. These streams drain wildlife population includes cougars, 2. The Wandere,J.K. Lord,John Hayrnan, The Beaver, into the Flathead River from the west wolverines and two species of deer. There vol. 70.06, December 1990 January 1991, The almost opposite the place where Sage are large populations of elk and Rocky Hudson’s Bay Company, pp. 38—47. Creek enters it from the east. The bull Mountain Bighorn sheep as well. As 3. The Palliser Expedition, Irene M. Spry, 1963, trout is a native char of the Rockies which winter snows deepen on both slopes of MacMillan of Canada. inhabits Flathead Lake and is known in the Crown these sheep move to lower 4. Capt. Blakiston ‘s Explorations in the Rocky British Columbia as the Dolly Varden, elevations in Waterton Lakes National Mountains, 1959, Merican Journal of Science, vol. 78, pp. 320—345. Dr. Bruce McLellan is a wildlife bi Park where they are protected. Many. can ologist who has spent years studying the be seen in the town of Waterton itself 5. In the Footsteps of Thomas Blakiston — 2858, Bruce Haig, Historic Trails Society of Alberta, grizzly bears on the east slope of the river. appearing to be almost tame. Lethbridge. He has found that they have one of the The vegetation of the Akamina densest populations on the continent. Kishinena an extension of the 6. Furand Gold in theKootenays, Clara Graham, 1945, is said to be Wrigley Printing. Despite their tendency to forage far afield inter-mountain region of the central for many miles it seems clear that there northwest United States. It is believed 7. Kootenai Brown, William Rodney, 1969, Gray’s Publishing Ltd. must be an adequate supply of glacier lily that the south-facing slopes below bulbs in the spring followed by grass and Kishinena Ridge abound with rare wild 8. Autumn Wanderings in theNorth-Wes/ Alex Stavely other vegetation as well as small mar flowers and plants carried there over the Hill, 1885, Judd & Judd, 751 Broadway. mots. Most years there are plentiful millennia by the south-western winds 9 The Wilderness Mosaic, Report of the Wilderness supplemented, perhaps, passing over Great Western Plains. Advisory Committee, 1986, Study Area #7, berries by the Akamina-Kishinena. spawning trout. Dr. McLellan found that They are of national and even interna the bears had grown accustomed to in tional significance. Among them are 10. NationalPark&BlosphereReserves, Bernard C. Lieff, 1985, Faculty of Forestry, University of British tensive logging activity and to the rumble variant subspecies of Oregon grape and Columbia.

35 B.C. Historical News - Winter 1993-94

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the as such many buildings historic restored only & CONGRATULATiONS

Victoria, re Jamie University of the at Roy

not Creek Cache has near Ranch Creek Hat

E. Under Patricia

Dr. scholarship. Martin Robert

RANCH CREEK HAT

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B.C.

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Committee.

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Ormsby

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support to

Margaret and in Legislature the legislation Boft Clarence top Instructor priority. her became

to: mall

cheque

their

contribute to should heritage enable

further to him sector will soon General history courses. transfer university

$20.00

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Those of

more donations for with portfolio, this familiarity Barlee’s “culture” two of years first the student, tackling mature a as

issued be

receipts

will donation

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Charitable of part but are heritage history and Although to College Camosun she 1990 In returned

95,000 over copies. province. has which of sold each

in the in history offering C., courses college B. in Gold to or Panning Guide and (1970) Towns

I99.

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every of staff and university the from

Smith, Ghost Brian and Creeks Gold very the popular written

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MLA Turner, former John leader Liberal former in having a interest history, longstanding has He

Robert Rogers, Governor Lieutenant 1990. and former 1980 in BCHF at conferences speaker

as such from project citizens for endorsation this has guest been This gentleman Cufture. and

They received have ethnohistory. or geography Business, Tourism Small of Minister became

historical history, archaeology, Columbia Barlee (Bill) N.L. 1993, September 15, On

r in majoring for British students future scholarship BILL WELCOME BARLEE

a to major endow program ambitious fund-raising

an launched students have Four doctoral 18, 1993. September

TRUST on Saskatoon in celebrations homecoming

ORMSBY SCHOLARSHIP MARGARET attending while died He essed. suddenly

proc scholarship was 1993 the after replaced

be he that requested but role this in efficient Branch. Heritage Properties provincial

was He very chairman. scholarship BCHF by owned the attractive complex an is This

the as service into he pressed to was Burnaby Sparwood. and Fernie between #3 Highway

retired he

When

Saskatchewan.

of

University the near Valley, Elk the to in tourists display for

at years many for taught then Columbia

British

of

being are prepared and ovens coke Buildings

from University the graduated Arthur Wirick possible. made transition the

cocktails

to 1914. 1904 at

from Hosmer operated

WIRICK a serving job second further PROFESSOR for ARTHUR education; plan

colliery A future. in name that for Watch

to her pushed inner but dissatisfaction station,

HOSMER

at Edmonton an career her television resumed 1992. in Canada of

country. about home She her knowledge

125th anniversary the for medal commemorative and girls ladies. with is it as visitors male with

even lacked she basic that realization harsh

the awarded was She conferences. BCHF as is says popular modest collector the which

the and values a changed of set were souvenirs

many attended and (1985) History Colourful amazing display, an home their holds of wing

Important adventures. distant experiencing

and Ladysmith’s (1980) and Ladysmith District see One collection. doll to wife’s his like would

a for year, travelled she 1987 In

Calgary.

of Chronicle two histories: local prepared they then if asked are Guests collection. notable

and Prince in George television in worked then

She Ladysmith. in years 94 93 her of lived having houses Bob’s A ovisitors. to building log bilia

College, at Camosun Communications Applied

August 1 1993, 21, away passed Cull Mrs. memora pioneer of and

artifacts Indian collection

studied Victoria, in up grew Disbrow Jamie

993 1899—1 CULL ViOLA

to large his — show

prepared is Akerman Bob

1993 WINNER

SCHOLARSHIP

- MUSEUM(S) SALT SPRING

1V7. V1V B.C Kelowna, Way, College

1. May 28— April beer. (ginger) and cake 3333 College, University Okanagan Department,

Parksville/Qualicum of Island, on to and to Vancouver this in partake held hand on witness was Thomson, History Contact Duane welcome.

be crowd will 1994 large A The horses. conference conferences. annual Clydesdale resident the of are sessions complete for Suggestions

one by our at h Okanagan the a from pulled guided members plough single meeting to Resources, planned. are children

forward We Petroleum and Federation. Energy,Mines look our join of body Minister vibrant and spouses for Activities families. their bring

and a MLA Edwards, Anne 6 such local large have to when pleased September to very on participants are We invite and organizers weekend ing

place took OHS. the sod-turning novel A Membership centre. of the information announce Affiliate Thanksgiv is This 1994. October of 10th and 9th

to to new pleased the house is

constructed 8th, Federation B.C. The being is on Historical the Conference Studies B.C. the host will ...

1898 Steele of Fort brewery replica A the of Kelowna in College SOCIETY MEMBERS University Okanagan

BREWERY FORT STEELE 1994 CONFERENCE STUDIES B.C. HISTORICAL OKANAGAN WELCOME

NOTES NEWS& ______

NEWS & NOTES ONTP

POINTS ROBERTS OBEUSK archival photographs. They are suited to different variety of archival projects. Groups interested in Point Roberts, named by Captain Vancou age and interest groups and will be of special applying for grants can obtain information ver for Lieutenant Henry Roberts, RN, lies on the interest to schools, universies, women’s groups brochures and an application form by writing to 49th parallel. The Treaty of Washington signed and historical associations. the Community Archives Assistance Program, on June 15, 1846, decreed that the 49th parallel These videotapes are available for. purchase British Columbia Archives and Records Service, would divide Canada and the United States. A from the museum at a unit cost of $20 plus tax: 655 BelIeville Street, Victoria V8V 1 X4. granite obelisk erected at Point Roberts in 1861 REFLECTIONS CAAP grants will pay for up to one-half of still stands to mark the boundary. Forty tons of 1. History of Women of Northern Vancouver the total cost of a project and may be up to granite from Scotland were carried around Cape Island 1915—1945 $10,000 in value. Grants are issued to non-profit Horn to form the shaft which is set on a base of 35 minutes, general adult or senior second societies, municipalities or other local government local stone. One side is inscribed “Treaty of ary school audiences. agencies, and similar groups (they are not Washington, June 15, 1846” and another states 2. A History of Women of Northern Vancouver available to individuals or profit-making societies). “LAT 49 0 0, LONG 128 3 53” while the others They are meant for one-time projects and cannot Island — A Child’s Perspective 1915—1945 carry the names of the commissioners who 15—20 minutes, elementary school be used for capital or on-going expenditures. signed the treaty. Joan and Bernard Bellinger audiences. recommend a visit to this point of interest. 3. Native Women of Northern Vancouver CONFERENCE 1994 Island 191 5—1 945 The Island Hall Hotel in Parksville will be 20 minutes, native focus for general adult or the venue for the 1994 conference of the British senior secondary school audiences. Columbia Historical Federation. Many speakers SILENT PARTNERS and outings are planned, plus the presentation of awards for the Historical 4. A History of the Women of Northern Writing Competition, exchange of successes Vancouver Island to 1920 and programs by member 20 minutes, general adult or senior historical societies, references to historic secondary school audiences. trails and markers, reports about the Publication Assistance Fund, and scholarship winners. To order use this format: Remember the dates: April 28— May 1, 1994. Number of the tapes ordered: History buffs from all over are welcome to participate. Those of you who 1,_2.__ 3.— 4.___ are not members of Member Societies may request registration Total tapes x $20 each forms from: Mrs. Payment of Paddy Cardwell 1033 Forgotten Drive - Parksville Texes: PST in B.C. ÷7% GST V9P 1T3 Phone: 248-9541 or Jim Storey (cheque or money order) at 752-1247 Total Cost enclosed with order.______Mail to: Campbell River Museum and Archives, 1235 Island Highway, Campbell River, B.C. V9W 2C7. Phone 287-3103 or fax 286-0109. I— Nm The boundary marker on the 49th parallel at Point Roberts, near Vancouver. Photo courtesy of B. Bellinger. Address

P.C. VIDEOTAPED HISTORY Campbell River Museum and Archives is Phone/Fax az4eat pleased to announce the release of several This project has been supported by Secretary of videotape productions that highlight the lives of eA,ztma / State, Ministry of Women’s Programmes and the pioneering women of northern Vancouver Government Services, B.C. Heritage Trust, Send your gift order to: Island. Drawing on a rich body of material - Campbell River Museum and Archives, P. Foster Nancy Peter gathered through an innovative women’s history and Associates, and Campbell River Television Subscription Secretary project, four lively and inspiring portraits of our (CRTV). #7 5400 Patterson Ave. foremothers have been captured on video. The Burnaby, B.C. V5H 2M5 researchers assembled over 75 hours of taped ARCHIVES ASSISTANCE AVAILABLE interviews and 400 historic photographs to create $12.00 wiZi (i#iaa. The next deadline for applications for grants 4 a specialized collection of information about $17.00 ea S ot/ze4 cot#ztgkt.. women. under the Community Archives Assistance pe The programmes were professionally Program is March 31, 1994. These grants can be produced using live interviews and dramatic used by community archives to help fund a \ -I

37 B.C. Historical News - Winter 1993-94

38

Winter B.C. News 1993-94 Historical -

of branch as days lines 1930s, the pression

iein fire a in The destroyed 1908. streetcar-barn

Cana of facets in a interest general with those

In structure. De the of a

wing

the two-storey

rolling was The operation. stock unprofitable

while covers, cancelled of illustrations of host its

as

progressed, depot the of

in designs storey

or,

fitful, the and in it kept leased modest and line

for up likely nTrack On will snap Philatelists

second the in utilitarian provided the in quarters

the years, fathers city several for accumulated

dispassionate. deliberately is somewhat if lucid,

who housed were of

experiences

families the the

deficits operating to 1895 had After 1897.

presentation the and organized well is operandi

of many The captures also buffs. depot work

those days recover to boom quite of never

modus its and Canada in explaining service the

railway to prove to bound mouth-watering

city. the of was south Nelson to Mountain the

of history The the relating text service artifacts.

many railway illustrations depots small-town of

up high on Toad mines neighbouring its and

mail and of pictures railway shots action of

contains

and beautifully is book produced The

the King from fade to already Silver beginning

a textual wealth and between material shared is

station of agent.

the usually that employees,

time the of fall was which bloom by 1899, the

pages space is, that nmost on history,” pictorial

of families which housed depots to also railway

was in completed The forecast. railway street

“hybrid is format The work. informative highly

its and limits but Canada, scope

U.S.A. the of

was environs and Nelson population in growth

a Rail, by nonetheless is it Mail of but scope

whole

the Roger samples author railway Grant,

metals. gold, Exponential base and silver

the match does Museum, to attempt not Postal

the by well-known the in Living Depot,

the of boundless of out held expectation lodes

National the by Canada, the of written curator

1991.

Kootenay rush, which the was it district gold

in Service The Mail Railway Track: On

Broadview Press, Peterborough, More. Any

to up Klondike the In the leading years

world. the of countries

(b) Ron, Stop Doesn’t Here The

Train Brown,

of city B.C. Nelson, small the promising but

various and in mail routing sorting of cacies

1977. & Limited, Fitzhenry

Whiteside Mills, Don

a street the in of railway construction nanced

a explanation intri the of detailed and service

Depots. Western National’s Charles, Canadian

fi Kootenay and district Columbia’s British

the of history lively the of a account seeking

(a) satisfying: Bohi, quite works

illustrated

promoters group a of from mining slick of

readers for remains paradigm Rail by the Mail

copiously find to following the of likely are

either

to overtures the yielded readily the and Empire,

the danger. real in of face sometimes world,

railway erected

lines Canadian for depots of

throughout way Britain Great development

the over railway on diligently routes laboured

on

architecture and history the information ing

which rail dominate to pany, electric aspired

who to heroes service the in unsung those

Those seek

“coffee-table

blatantly pictorial.”

Electric Com British Traction London-based

tribute by Mail fervent a Rail, book entitled

their

academic range the to sober the

from

these

the that surprising the of not is temper times, it

with a be occupation to seem tedious might

style In off press. the roll to operations

continue

efforts. the promotion up Given such through

what glamorizing succeeded in W.J. Dennis

of a railway on aspects of Books

variety

his leg- got who Beaverbrook, real first one was

and Long service mail B.A. in, set in railway

structures. railway retired

elh Lord wealthy became who h fabulously the

decline before precipitous just 1951, In the

of many rolling also but these stock railway and

New of from boy backwoods Brunswick the the

the service. to dedicated came

history

railway preserving in only not interest

a riches. Aitken, Max to route provided rapid

be work the proper a with for bent ployees

a taken of buffs lively have

railway

ciations

often undeveloped lands other and colonies

em but carriages mail railway the in cramped

local and asso regional

National,

operation.

in British systems the railway street electric

and conditions long working were hours

railway to ancillary etc.

depots, roundhouses,

power of and plants hydro-electric of financing

Shift centres journey. the postal various on

of water and

railway towers, track also of miles

and century, the promotion the At of turn

at sorting in resorting and involved delays

of bereft many been has landscape

American

$22.95

p., 210 illus. House. eliminating thus transit, in by them sorting mails

North

the years thirty

the past

Over

Edmonton, Havelock Parker. V. Douglas the sped the miles over who long employees

$32.95 p., illus., 93 145 1993.

postal train with express staffed but an in unit

in Kootenays Streetcars the

Iowa of Roger Press, University Grant. H. a railway forming designed specially carriages

of use the involved service mail Railway Station Railroad

Columbia. British in railroading

by service. postal this in The Two.Storey the Living Depot:

as the of days during great depot the existed it care loving logiven also were tender notes bank

in life domestic an in record to viduals attempt esand bees baby live day-old as chicks, esoterica

seek indi such out historian to willing any for Canada. across retirees service Such Eatons Simpsons. and from orders mail

a model helpful and serve challenge sa as should by told be surviving stories to colourful of yet of thousands householders oisolated to safely

in Living Grant’s h Depot, the a of Columbia. British hints host service. the Track On of aspect sped celerity, also unerring but with mitted

in railway served which lines abandoned, now this on concentrating a write to work aficionado trans be to first enable mail class service mail

depots, railway small-town al of walls the within prompt will some of Track appearance the On railway did only not however, times, earlier

of life family doubtless memories have who Hopefully, routes. steamer inland and steamer In a aroused whimper. barely 1971 in Canada

today living women and r men are There railway, coastal British of many of Columbia’s in demise Its background. the in efficiently

their refined design. depot and a was their operations feature service transportation Postal a than flourished more for century, area vast

as consolidated railways improve to tended index. subject A Canada’s across of sinew and communication

regions in housing of all quality the pression, Canada. in (c) routes existed office post which bone the service, railway mail hand, other the

De the Prior to housing. employee steamer depot” and railway the delineating appendix On media. the in mourned appropriately been

(b) “in- the of in provision railway in practice An museum. an the in interest stimulate has era post-World the II War sharp in decline

regional does n marked any differences out point book the ol of goals to is of One P.Q.). the Hull, its and public the of imagination the captured

railway the and depot, of Rue in life ture (100 Laurier, domestic Postal Museum National the always has passenger service Railway

pic (a) a providing in generic anecdotal The material of address added: be to were following

$17.95

p., 1992. illus., 151 Civilization, of seum

deftly nmuch on offices. draws ticket Grant the edition subsequent a in if enhanced ably

Mu Canadian Hull, O’Reilly. McLeod Susan

waiting and rooms out consider be carved abandoned of would a as work reference book

Canada rudimentary shelter find to were of families quality The thankful the engrossing. illustrations the

in Service status, only” were easy some relegated read to Mail “freight text Railway The to and the find history will On da’s Track:

1 V6S B.C. E4 Vancouver, Ave., 20th West 3450 Yandle, Anne

editor: review book the to directly sent be should reviews book and review for Books

SHELF BOOK BOOK SHELF ONT’D

then acquired city the rails and trolley wires of Karen Southern. Surrey, B.C., Hancock House, photographs in each book have the interest of the system, which languished a group of until 1989. 219 p., illus., $12.95 a family album. dedicated citizens organized a new company Both books have good indexes and con and raised financing for new rolling stock and Anyone who knows, or is fortunate enough tain maps, the one in The Nelson Island Story trackage extension. Cheap powerwas available to be planning to visit, Lasqueti or Nelson showing the location of the early settlers. Both from the City of Nelson’s hydro-electric power Islands will find these two local histories useful, have a section on place names and The Nelson plant at Bonnington Falls, but the system interesting and enjoyable. Indeed, the themes Island Story includes a list of “boats familiar to continued to lose money. Once again the city and incidents they describe will strike a chord the waters around Nelson Island throughout its took over the system and thanks to a dedicated with those familiar with any of the islands of the history.” southern Inside Passage. maintenance staff managed to keep its three Frances Gundry antiquated streetcars sweeper in While the two islands lie on opposite sides and one snow Frances Gundry a member of the Victoria Historical operation World War II until of the Strait of Georgia — Lasqueti being tied throughout the Society, is an archivist at the B.C. Provincial fifty-year-old system was retired Nel geographically to Vancouver Island and Nelson, in 1949. Archives and Records Service. son residents looked on the money-losing which curves around the north end of the system as one of the “perks” available in a city Sechelt peninsula, to the Mainland— the expe which owned its own hydro-electric plant. riences of settlers on the two islands were in Responding to Fashion: The Clothing The railway historian Doug Parker, who many ways similar and the two volumes have of the 0 fleilly Family has been in the forefront of restoration work much in common. carried out on the Edmonton street railway Both tell the story of the islands largely Virginia Careless, Royal British Columbia Mu seum, 1993, system, has achieved in Streetcars in the through chronologically arranged biographies 92 p., $6.50 Kootenays a superb piece of work which pro and reminiscences and through anecdotes of Responding to Fashion was prepared to vides not only lucid, interesting information on island life. These are given context by sections describe a collection of clothing acquired when the street railway system itself, but fills in some on such topics as early exploration, industries, the O’Reilly home at Point Ellice became a good solid background about the economic the development of community organizations, provincial heritage attraction. conditions which prevailed in Nelson during changing patterns of transportation and com This book will be of great help to anyone the life of the line. A wealth of anecdotes munications and their effect, and that of changes who is researching clothes for costuming at captures the flavour of this boom town which in the economy of the outside world on island historic sites or for centennial celebrations, It over the decades survived the closure of the life. should also be of interest to anyone wanting to Hall Mines smelter, as well as other economic The particular interest of both books lies in know what the Social and Fashion life was like setbacks. the stories of the people who lived on, or in their mother’s or grandmothers’ time. I feel The many illustrations, which share pages passed through, the islands and in the affection that the first 13 pages should be mandatory with the text, are a delight, while the format, and detailed knowledge with which their stories reading for anyone working with historic cos which assigns “footnotes” to the inside margins, are told. tumes, as it shows many of the things that could makes for easy reading. The closing chapters of Elda Copley Mason, the author of Lasqueti go awry even when the custodian has the best the book are devoted to an account of the Island: History and Memory, lived in Lasqueti of intentions. inspiring work carried out in recent years by the for over forty years and the parts of her book Notes, illustrations and references are clear. Nelson Electric Tramway Society and others in which consist of her own reminiscences are I was sorry Ms. Careless could not present the restoring one of the old streetcars and rebuilding particularly interesting. If the extract from her rest of the costumes at Point Ellice House. I a streetcar line along part of Nelson’s scenic diaries which appears on page 146 is typical, closed this book wanting to learn more about waterfront. A perusal of Streetcars in the they should perhaps be published in their own the O’Reilly ladies. Kootenays will impel even the most jaded right: “What a queer couple they are ... and Jean-Ann Debrecini tourist to visit Nelson and take a trip on the their house, a long narrow building constructed The reviewer has been associated with Fort Steele restored car #23 which began operating on of beachcombed wood, browned and mel Heritage Town for 18 years, frequently acting as a July 1, 1992. lowed by years of smoke and wind and salt consultant re costuming for staff and volunteers. Streetcars in the Kootenays ranks in a class spray. He with his sharp blue eyes and hers with Henry Ewart’s epic The Story of the B.C. with the same piercing quality ... within the house everything spotless ... They are so very Electric Railway, published in 1986 by White Books Also Noted cap in Vancouver. Parker’s work is a “must” for old looking... What a strange life for a crooked street railway enthusiasts and should also prove man and an educated woman.” Affleck ‘s List ofSternwheelers & Other rewarding reading for anyone having an interest The Nelson Island Story includes a par Larger Steamboats Working on the in the history of the Kootenay district. ticularly enjoyable account by Howard White Columbia River Waterways North of of his childhood at Green Bay where his father the Edward L. Affleck logged during the early fifties before the family 47th Parallel ofLatitude 18651 965 Ted Affleck is a member of the Vancouver became “victims of the Social Credit Govern Edward L. Affleck, comp. 60 p. Vancouver, Historical Society. ment’s policy of closing the woods to small free Alexander Nicolls Press, 1993. $6.00 enterprise and delivering it over to the big Available from Alexander Nicolls Press, 3208 S.E. Marine Drive, Vancouver, B.C. V5P 2S2 Lasqueti Island: History and Memory monopolies.” (page 122) White writes of “a pattern of failure and (604) 324-2201. Elda Copley Mason. Lantzville, B.C., abandonment.” Certainly the coast is dotted Shuswap 4. Byron Mason, n.d. 228 p., $18.95. Chronicles Vol. with evidences of past lives. Both Lasqueti Is Celista, B.C., North Shuswap Historical Soci Available from Byron Mason, Box 322, land: History and Memory and The Nelson Lantzville, B.C. VOR 2H0. ety, 1993. Island Story will help to preserve the memory No price given. Available from North Shuswap The Nelson Island Story, including of the courage, ingenuity, hard work and, Hardy Island and Otherislands ofJervis Historical Society, P.O. Box 22, Celista, B.C. often, eccentricity of people who lived on the VOE 1LO. Inlet islands, and they do it so well that the many

39 B.C. Historical News . Winter 1993-94 A POSTSCRIPT TO Atlin Adventure

Lyman D. Sand.s, retired Government Agent and Gold Commissioner in Atlin wrote to the author of ‘4tlin Adventure”. We areprivileged to share thefollowing with our readers.

I read with some interest your article politics and served for four years as U.S. the best and men were glad to have a job. “Atlin Adventure’ in the B.C. Historical Senator for the Fairbanks area. When Incidentallythejoker, Poker & Croker News Fall 1993 and thought it would be Alaska became a State, he was one of a leases are still in existence and still pro interesting to you to receive sort of a team that drew up the Alaska State ducing gold. follow-up on the story. Constitution. The undersigned worked for the Frank Barr married my sister Mary He was considered by his peers as Provincial Government as Government Kate Sands in 1937. He flew planes one of the better bush pilots in the north. Agent for 36 years and retired in 1983. betweenJuneau and Atlin until late fall of While he had many forced landings, During my career I was Gold Commis 1938 when he and his wife moved to some severely damaging his plane, he sioner in Atlin and several other places Fairbanks where he flew for himself and was always able to repair it and fly it back and also Court Registrar. I enjoyed my various other companies until approxi to his base. One of his slogans was “If you work at the time but don’t miss it now. mately 1956 when he retired from the want to fly the worst way, fly with Barr”. Trust you may find the above of flying game and moved to Portland, Or I remember Ike Matthews as a young some interest. egon where he bought a mobile home person and he was not particularly well Yours very truly, park and sort of semi-retired. liked by the people of Atlin. I think the My sister died in 1976 and Barr died reason for this being he was hard on his in 1983 at the age of 80. During the crew, poor living conditions in his camp period he was in Fairbanks he ran for and poor grub. However times weren’t Lyman D. Sands,

Spiral Tunnels Yoho Natwnal Park British Columbia Photo. Courtesy Ca,wdiaa Pacific The engine of thisfreight train emergesfrom the Lower Spiral tunne4 near Fielc4 B.C., while the tail has yet to enter the portal 45feet (13. 7m) above. This is the locale where the author, Tom Barneti; waved to motorists stopped at a viewpoint on the Trans-Canada Highway.

40 B.C. Historical News - Winter 1993-94 THE BRITISH COLUMBIA HISTORICAL FEDERATION

HONORARY PATRON His Honour, the Honourable David C. Lam, CM, LL.D., Lieutenant Governor of British Columbia

HONORARY PRESIDENT Arthur Lower

OFFICERS

President Myrtle Haslam, P.O. Box 10, Cowichan Bay, B.C. VOR 1NO 748-8397

First Vice President Alice Glanville, P.O. Box 746, Grand Forks, B.C. VOH 1HO 442-3865

Second Vice President Ron Weiwood, RR #1, S22, Ci, Nelson, B.C. Vi L 5P4 825-4743

Secretary T. Don Sale, 262 Juniper Street, Nanaimo, B.C. V9S 1X4 753-2067

Recording Secretary Arnold Ranneris, 1898 Quamichan Street, Victoria, B.C. V8S 2B9 598-3035

Treasurer Doris J. May, 2943 Shelbourne Street, Victoria, B.C. V8R 4M7 595-0236 Members at Large Mary Rawson, 1406 Woodland Drive, Vancouver, B.C. V5L 3S6 251-2908 Wayne Desrochers, 8811 — 152nd Street, Surrey, B.C. V3R 4E5 581-0286

Past President John D. Spittle, 1241 Mount Crown Road, North Vancouver, B.C. V7R 1R9 988-4565

COMMITTEE OFFICERS

Archivist Margaret Stoneberg, Box 687, Princeton, B.C. VOX1WO 295-3362

B.C. Historical News Publishing Committee Tony Farr, RR #3, Sharp Road, Comp. 21, Ganges, B.C. VOS 1EQ 537-5398

Book Review Editor Anne Yandle, 3450 West 20th Avenue, Vancouver, B.C. V6S 1E4 733-6484

Editor Naomi Miller, Box 105, Wasa, B.C. VOV2K0 422-3594

Subscription Secretary Nancy Peter, #7— 5400 Patterson Avenue, Burnaby, B.C. V5H 2M5 437-6115

Historical Trails & Markers John Spittle, 1241 Mount Cowan Road, North Vancouver, B.C. V7R 1R9 988-4565

Publications Assistance Jill Rowland (not involved with #5 — 1450 Chesterfield Avenue, North Vancouver, B.C. V7M 2N4 984-0602 B.C. Historical News) Contact Jill for advice and details to apply for a loan toward the cost of publishing.

Scholarship Committee Anne Yandle, 3450 West 20th Avenue, Vancouver, B.C. V6S 1E4 733-6484

Writing Competition (Lieutenant Governor’s Award) Pamela Mar, P.O. Box 933, Nanaimo, B.C. V9R 5N2 758-2828 . ______

The British Columbia Historical News Publications Mail P. 0. Box 5254, Stn. B Registration No. 4447 Victoria, B.C. V8R6N4

ADDRESS LABEL HERE

BC HIsToRIcAL FEDERATIoN WRITING COMPETITION The British Columbia Historical Federation invites submissions ofbooks for the eleventh annual Competition for Writers of B.C. History. Any book presenting any facet ofB.C. history, published in 1993, is eligible. This may be a community history, biography, record of a project or an organization, or personal recollections giving a glimpse ofthe past. Names, dates, and places with relevant maps or pictures turn a story into “history”. The judges are looking for quality presentations, especially if fresh material is included, with appropriate illustrations, careful proof reading, an adequate index, table of contents and bibliography from first-time writers as well as established authors. Note: Reprints or revisions of books are not eligible. The Lieutenant-Governor’s Medal for Historical Writing will be awarded to an individual writer whose book contributes significantly to the recorded history of British Columbia. Other awards will be made as recommended by the judges to valuable books prepared by groups or individuals. All entries receive considerable publicity. Winners will receive a Certificate of Merit, a monetary award and an invitation to the B.C.H.F. annual conference to beheld in Parksville in May 1994. Submission Requirements: All books must have been published in 1993, and should be submitted as soon as possible after publication. Two copies of each book should be submitted. Please state name, address and telephone number ofsender, the selling price ofall editions ofthe book and the address from which it may be purchased if the reader has to shop by mail. Send to: B.C. Historical Writing Competition P.O. Box 933, Nanaimo, B.C. V9R 5N2 Deadline: December 31, 1993. LATE ENTRIES WILL BE ACCEPTED WITH POST MARKUP TO JANUARY 31,1994, BUT MUST CONTAINTHREE COPIES OF EACH BOOK * * * * * * ** * * There is also an award for the Best Article published each year in the B.C. Historical News magazine. This is directed to amateur historians or students. Articles should be no more than 2,500 words, typed double spaced, accompanied by photographs if available, and substantiated with footnotes where applicable. (Photos will be returned.) Please send articles directly to: The Editor, B.C. Historical News - P.O. Box 105, Wasa, B.C. VOB2K0