3 MONOCLE madrid icons city treasures MADRID 3 MONOCLE madrid icons introduction

Spain’s capital is a city of creativity, candour and contrast. Its residents are a wonderfully proud and passion- ate bunch, which is reflected in the food, architecture and artwork that they hold dear. It’s something you can get a taste of in this booklet, and we trust you enjoy what will prove to be a journey of discovery and delight. What follows is a tour of some of Madrid’s most treasured icons. You’ll be savour the delicacy that is the bocadillo de calamares – the much- loved fried calamari sandwich – then walk the halls of the Royal Palace. You’ll admire the city’s historic gates before looking up to take in the won- drous skyline. And as if that weren’t enough, you’ll also stand before a Velázquez masterpiece, see Madrid’s coat of arms, marvel at two impres- sive statues and finish in the beauti- ful Puerta del Sol Plaza. Ready? There is a whole city just waiting to be discovered.

Writer Images Liam Aldous Alamy Cesar Lucas Abreu deputy Photo editor Renee Melides Illustrator Matt Lehman Senior Designer ’s m Jay Yeo hat or W e — chief Sub Editor To explore Madrid Dan Poole even further, see Monocle’s new Photographers city guide Víctor Garrido Gianfranco Tripodo essential eating Bread, olive oil and fish are Med staples 01/08 impeccable taste MADRID ICONS: FOOD

bocadillo de calamares to gastronomic excellence Madrid’s renowned while the Mercado de La Paz culinary melting pot in the Salamanca district includes some of the is a colourful example of an world’s best restaurants authentic Spanish neighbour- and decorated chefs hood market. but Madrileños reserve special affection for local delicacies, not least the 4 bocadillo de calamares: COME ONE, COME ALL fried calamari sandwich. The colour and commotion Residents flock to Plaza inside the bars and tabernas Mayor to feast on the beloved treat, soaking of La Latina reaches fever pitch on the weekends, espe- up the colour and atmo- 1 sphere on the corner cially along the street of Cava of Calle Botoneras as Standing Room Only Alta. The festive atmosphere they savour the local The traditional tasca is resur- spills out into the plazas, staples of fried squid, gent in the Spanish capital, fuelled by tapas and cañas. Spanish olive oil and tapping into a love of authentic Spanish food in its purest freshly baked bread. food and informality. Tascas form: social and sumptuous. The city’s evolving fusion typically serve uncomplicated of the Mediterranean cuisine over a prominent bar. diet is bolstered by the Located in the vibrant Chueca presence of the world’s district, Celso y Manolo is a second-largest seafood modern take on the concept, market. The minor detail offering locally procured food of being landlocked from morning until night. doesn’t stop locals from relishing the fruits of the 3 5 ocean on tables around OLD ONES ARE THE BEST STUNNING SPREAD the city. The Madrid food Restaurante Botín was The increasingly cosmopolitan experience is a social founded in 1725, making it the make-up of Madrid has fuelled PERFECT COMBINATION ceremony that reflects the world’s oldest restaurant and modern fusion cuisine. El Fact: fried calamari is local character: relaxed, the ideal setting to sample Corte Inglés department store best enjoyed with friends gregarious and fun loving. traditional Castilian Spanish recently enlisted some of the 2 cuisinet. Situated next to city’s strongest players for its setting out its stall Plaza Mayor, the family- Gourmet Experience on Calle The city’s network of fresh- run restaurant has been Serrano, bringing together food markets underlines the perfecting dishes such as three chefs with a total of local love of high-quality suckling pig and roasted seven Michelin stars under produce. The iconic Mercado lamb inside its wood-fired one roof for a mouthwatering de San Miguel is a shrine oven for centuries. celebration of food talent.

MADRID 3 MONOCLE open-door policy Be sure to visit one of Europe’s largest palaces 02/08 majestic presence MADRID ICONS: royal LEGACY

royal palace by the daughter of a king in Spain’s royal legacy 1559, it opened to the public in stretches all the way back 1960. The active convent now to the 5th century and the exhibits its artistic master- vestiges of this tradition pieces and, it claims, shards have helped to shape of Christ’s cross. Madrid. That is particu- larly the case as palaces and lush garden estates 4 have become part of the wide influence public domain and icons On Madrid’s outskirts you’ll find in their own right. more monuments to the city’s Built on the site of a 9th-century fortress, the legacy.The royal El Escorial monastery is a Unesco World Royal Palace is flanked by 1 the gardens of Campo del Heritage site; the Aranjuez Moro and Sabatini. The going green Palace is as well, surrounded royal family’s official Once the exclusive domain of by stunning gardens, and the residence hosts state the royal circle, Madrid’s iconic Royal Palace of El Pardo is used ceremonies and banquets. parks are now enjoyed by all. as the official residence of With 3,418 rooms it is The lake of the Buen Retiro visiting foreign dignitaries. the biggest palace in a Park once staged mock naval European capital. Visitors battles, the Royal Botanic can wander its halls, Gardens archived the plant life soaking up the vast of the Spanish empire and treasures and rich history Casa de Campo is one of the of Spain’s royal heritage. world’s largest urban parks.

3 5 Stage presence at ground level Alongside the palace, the To help make his palaces picturesque Plaza de Oriente warmer and more comfort- is populated by 44 limestone able, King Felipe V founded statues representing the the Royal Tapestry Factory grand Spanish monarchs of in 1720. Artists such as 2 old. On the opposite side the Francisco Goya have woven city at your feet Teatro Real (Royal Theatre) their magic here and centuries The oddly named Monastery of hosts world-renowned opera later it is still functioning, the Barefoot Royals (Monaste- and dance and, for those serving as a museum and rio de las Descalzas Reales) who want to delve further, workshop that is impressively was once one of the richest provides engaging guided rich in both heritage and convents in Europe. Founded tours of its facilities. craftsmanship.

MADRID 3 MONOCLE 03/08 come one, come all Puerta de Alcalá is a symbol of openness gate to the world MADRID ICONS: Puerta de Alcalá

Puerta de Alcalá congregate here to soak up the For a city that welcomes sun, exercise, eat tapas and visitors from all walks enjoy theatre, art and music. of life, the historic gate The park’s jovial atmosphere of Puerta de Alcalá is a often fuels friendly conversa- fitting symbol. Times have tion between strangers. certainly changed since the ornate construction 1 was inaugurated by King Serrano High Street Carlos III in 1778: Madrid From the historical vestige of was once enclosed by a Puerta de Alcalá, stroll up massive stone wall but Calle Serrano high street, today relishes a far more open approach, not least which is lined with a raft of on a social level. As local and international . Given a modern facelift in Spain’s financial and 4 industrial capital, Madrid 2010, today it is home to luxury has become a pan-Iberian and cosy cafés. The MediaLab melting pot that has surrounding streets are filled Symbolising the open and shaped the locals’ warm, with beautiful boutiques and collaborative spirit of Madrid’s receptive demeanour. sought-after labels. cultural community, MediaLab Designed by the is a hub of experimentation celebrated Italian focusing on digital culture and architect Francesco new technologies. Found inside Sabatini, the Alcalá gate a refurbished sawmill, the connected the city to the team is on hand to explain the nearby town of Alcalá de extensive bilingual programme, Henares, which is now which is open to everyone. Unesco-listed and was once the main entry 3 5 point for visitors from palacio de Cristal Gay Pride and Valencia. A majestic structure of metal From 1 to 5 July, Madrid opens Inspiring numerous and glass, the Crystal Palace its gates to one of the world’s pop-culture songs, the is easily one of Buen Retiro biggest gay pride festivals. gate has served as a Park’s most coveted attrac- The colourful celebration backdrop for concerts tions. Inspired by a similar has become the city’s welcoming diverse guests 2 building in southeast , unofficial summer fiesta as to the city: everything Buen Retiro Park it was erected in 1887 in order millions take to the streets to from the MTV music Behind the Alcalá gate the to exhibit flora and fauna from celebrate the city’s proud awards to various popes city’s beautifully landscaped the Philippines. Today it is diversity, tolerance and that have been in town. green lung is a former royal still open to the public and penchant for partying. Things Come on a tour of the garden turned cosmopolitan regularly hosts contemporary- really hot up in 2017: Madrid surrounding area. urban retreat. People art exhibitions. will be hosting World Pride.

MADRID 3 MONOCLE 04/08 up in the air MADRID ICONS: the skyline hot topic madrid al cielo Cultural Centre as part of the Madrid is one of Europe’s The chorus of pride and Veranos de la Villa concert leaders in sunshine hours affection that Madrileños series. There is also the feel for their city is exem- brightly decorated August plified by the local refrain party in La Latina for the of “De Madrid al Cielo”: Fiestas de la Paloma. from Madrid to heaven. For centuries the city’s legendary sky has been 4 a source of inspiration Sunset in the Park for Spanish artists and Marvel at the breathtaking literary greats so when sunsets in one of Madrid’s playwright Luis Quiñones de Benavente coined the serene parks or picturesque plazas. Sit on the steps of the phrase “From cradle to 1 Madrid, and Madrid to lake in the Buen Retiro Park, heaven” in the 17th cen- Lookouts kick back on the grass by the tury, the words stuck. See the city spread out before Royal Palace or get carried A unique vantage point your eyes from one of several across Casa de Campo by shapes the capital’s life- vantage points. At 92 metres the Teleférico cable car. style; at 646 metres above up the Faro de Moncloa almost sea level Madrid is not grazes the sky and the park only one of Europe’s high- surrounding the Egyptian est capital cities but also Temple of Debod (pictured, one of the sunniest on left) offers sweeping views of the continent. Locals are the Casa de Campo reserve. most at ease drinking on a Meanwhile, many hotels pro- terrace, gazing across the vide a more intimate outlook. city from an iconic look- out or savouring the view 3 5 from rooftop restaurants. Rooftop Renaissance Artistic Inspiration When in Madrid, do as They were once neglected Renowned Spanish artists the Madrileños do. spaces but Madrid has have long endeavoured to recently been on the end capture the Madrid sky in all of a welcome surge in rooftop of its splendour. In the vast bars and restaurants. Enjoy halls of the Prado Museum, 2 a meal with panoramic views discover the theories behind OPEN-AIR FESTIVALS from the Círculo de Bellas Diego Velázquez’s complex Folkloric festivals and open- Artes or party atop the depictions of the sky and air concerts are a summer always-appealing Hotel Me. find out why the Pradera de staple. Enjoy music under Even city hall has its own San Isidro Park proved to be the night sky in Madrid Rio, rooftop bar and it is ideal Francisco de Goya’s outdoor El Matadero or Conde Duque for an evening cocktail. studio of choice.

MADRID 3 MONOCLE 05/08 state of the art MADRID ICONS: Las Meninas home of art Las Meninas Sofía, the boulevard boasts ‘Las Meninas’ takes pride The Spanish capital has the Thyssen-Bornemisza of place in the Prado exuded artistic merit ever Museum. The majestic 18th since Velázquez and Goya century palace houses works began committing the city from the likes of Vincent Van to canvases in the 17th Gogh and Edward Hopper. and 18th centuries. Today Velázquez’s baroque mas- terpiece “Las Meninas” 4 hangs inside the Prado Artistic Districts Museum. Revered as the Private galleries have sprung “theology of painting” and up in some of the city’s “philosophy of art”, the work has perplexed art eclectic barrios. Visit refined examples in the Salamanca historians since its unveil- 1 ing in 1656 but interpreting district, smaller and more it provides much joy. el Prado daring ones in the affluent Madrid’s art scene is still One of the world’s most area of Las Salesas or the thriving: the 271-year-old renowned museums of fine established art strip of Calle Royal Academy of Fine European art opened in 1819 to Doctor Fourquet. Arts of San Fernando display Spain’s royal collection. teaches new maestros; Visitors marvel at masterpieces ArcoMadrid attracts col- stretching back to the 12th cen- lectors every February; and tury, including Bosch’s “Garden in September, Apertura of Unearthly Delights”. The sees private galleries open archives are so vast that a their doors. Come on a second version of Da Vinci’s well-curated artistic tour. “Mona Lisa” was found in 2014.

3 5 Las Letras Literary Reina SofÍa Museum Quarter Home to Spain’s largest col- The Las Letras district cel- lection of 20th-century art, the ebrates the literary heritage Reina Sofía opened in 1992 of Spain’s golden age. Tucked and displays awe-inspiring between the tabernas you’ll works by Salvador Dalí and 2 find the historic home of Miguel Joan Miró, as well as Pablo Paseo del Arte Cervantes and playwright Lope Picasso’s politically charged Madrid’s Golden Triangle de Vega, now a museum. Keep “Guernica”. After whetting of Art is a concentration of an eye out as you wander the your appetite with modern Spain’s most prestigious gal- streets: phrases from their masterpieces, head to the leries and museums. Along works are emblazoned in brass Jean Nouvel-designed restau- with the Prado and Reina on the pavement. rant for a Spanish lunch.

MADRID 3 MONOCLE oso y madroño This sculpture has stood in Madrid since 1967 06/08 natural selection MADRID ICONS: oso y madroÑo Oso y Madroño foliage shades a complex The oso y madroño, or network of walking, running “bear and strawberry tree”, and cycling trails, while a lake has been a symbol of the attracts rowers. There is also Spanish capital for centu- the Madrid Zoo, an amusement ries. While a sculpture by park and Teleférico cable car. Antonio Navarro Santafé has stood in Puerta del Sol Square since 1967, the 1 3 use of these natural icons Regenerated Riverbanks Mountain Escapes can be traced all the way Replacing a traffic-intense Madrid’s Sierra de back to 1212 when King highway with a 10km-long tree- Guadarrama National Park Alfonso VIII emblazoned them onto shields and ban- lined park has seen the banks provide a scenic backdrop ners before clashing with of Madrid’s Manzanares River to the city. The rich natural Moorish troops. Legends flourish once more. Since its reserve is home to more than abound about the emblem inauguration in 2011, Madrid 1,200 species of plant and ani- but the symbol of fertile Río’s award-winning landscape mal life. Marvel at the moun- land continues to encapsu- has grown and thrived, provid- tain views, discover secret late Madrid’s vast natural ing Madrileños with a lush waterfalls and pack some resources and love of the green lung that snakes through Madrid produce for a picnic outdoors. As Madrid’s coat the capital. by the La Jarosa dam. of arms the symbol is ubiq- uitous, adorning fixtures around the capital. Although Madrid’s thriv- ing metropolis has all the trappings of a large city, nature is never far away. Discover the vast, beauti- fully manicured parks, 5 sample fresh produce or 2 Wine Routes trek into the wilderness Home grown Madrid’s wine-producing right on the city’s doorstep. The region has a proudly regions are welcoming more sown agricultural legacy. visitors than ever with a selec- Local produce is supported tion of themed routes that by farmers’ markets such as transport wine-lovers through Matadero Madrid’s Mercado de 4 their vineyards and cultural Productores and shops includ- park life heritage. Visit quaint bodegas, ing Kiki Market in La Latina. Casa de Campo, once a royal discover ancient ruins and Restaurant Olivia Te Cuida hunting estate, is the capital’s admire picturesque landscapes even bakes a Madroño cake largest public park. Nudging and villages. You can even use to honour the city’s emblem. the city’s western edge, dense the city’s metro to get here.

MADRID 3 MONOCLE 07/08 neptune The marble god has stood in Madrid since 1786 the city of gods MADRID ICONS: Cybele & Neptune Cybele & Neptune celebrated institutions, such Mythical figures adorn as the prestigious Prado, the the Madrid skyline but Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum it’s these two iconic and the Caixa Forum. Not far monuments that rule the from Neptune is the leafy oasis streets. The presence of of the Royal Botanic Garden. a Roman god and Greek goddess along the Paseo del Prado may jar with 1 4 Madrid’s Roman Catholic Football Fervour Centennial Hotels heritage but the beloved Fans from Madrid’s two football Flanking the figure of Neptune statues embody the city’s giants flock to the monuments are two of Madrid’s most iconic culture and history. Perched on top of to celebrate victories on the hotels. Opened in 1912, the Cibeles Fountain in front field. Real Madrid supporters Westin Palace was once the of city hall, the statue of converge at the Cibeles largest luxury hotel in Europe; Phrygian goddess Cybele Fountain to savour a win, while curious crowds still come to was commissioned by a sea of jubilation surrounds marvel at the coloured glass King Carlos III. Carved Neptune every time Atlético of la cúpula. The Ritz was built from marble and stone, Madrid bring home a trophy. You at the behest of King Alfonso it was completed in 1782. can also visit the club museums XIII in 1910 to attract more Cybele is clutching the in the Santiago Bernabéu and illustrious visitors to the capital. key to the city and – so the Vicente Calderón stadiums. legend goes – the waters 5 of her fountain protect the AlFresco Dining vaults of the neighbouring Literary legend Miguel de Bank of Spain. Cervantes once called the Nearby is the sculpture adjacent Las Letras barrio of Neptune, the god of the home and after years of seas. Completed in 1786, intrigue, this year his tomb the marble figure stands for was uncovered in the Las Spain’s maritime strength. 3 Trinitarias Convent. After Discover why both statues Palacio de Cibeles visiting his final resting place, are still celebrated today. Once a grand post office, pull up a chair at an alfreso Palacio de Cibeles has housed terrace on the picturesque city hall since 2007 and a culture Plaza Santa Ana. centre since 2011. Completed 2 in 1919, the building’s recent Paseo del Prado transformation opened it up to The boulevard that is home the public. Apart from visiting to these two mythological exhibitions and a reading hall, figures is also where you will you can head up to the rooftop find some of the city’s most- bar to take in the skyline.

MADRID 3 MONOCLE 08/08 kilometre 0 words on the street The meeting point of a network of highways MADRID ICONS: kilometre o Kilometre 0 1 4 In Spain, all roads lead Puerta del Sol DISCOVER THE CITY BY BIKE to Madrid’s Puerta del A place of congregation and Madrid’s winding streets lend Sol Plaza. Situated in celebration, this buzzing plaza themselves to a two-wheeled the centre of the city and is full of symbols and traditions. tour. Source a bike from a adorned with the iconic Apart from the 79-year-old Tio bike-hire business or public Tio Pepe neon sign above, Pepe sign, Madrileños often bike scheme BiciMAD to nine streets converge in meet at the “Oso y Madroño” explore Madrid’s vibrant belt the square, making it the (“Bear and Strawberry Tree”) of barrios. A pedal-powered capital’s unmistakable statue, the capital’s official journey through the Chamberí, beating heart. emblem. Revellers also gather Salamanca or Arganzuela Spanish for “Gate of by the Casa de Correos clock districts will dish up plenty of the Sun”, Puerta del Sol has origins that can be tower each New Year’s Eve to sights and surprises. traced back to the 15th eat a dozen grapes at midnight. century when it hosted 3 one of the entry points to the old gated city. Today it Food District: La Latina is a multipurpose meeting Madrid’s gastronomic clout point for Madrileños continues to grow across and the country’s entire the Spanish capital but the network of highways indisputable hub of both is measured from the tradition and fusion is the La Kilometre 0 plaque. Latina district. A 10-minute 5 Just a few minutes walk via Plaza Mayor leads Transport Hub walk away you’ll find the to a satiating selection of Sol station is made up of three city’s patchwork of vibrant traditional tabernas and well-connected lines, while a districts. And if wanderlust restaurants. Graze the second network – Cercanías draws you further afield, a tapas and raciones along – connects commuters to world-class train network 2 Calle Cava Baja or discover Madrid’s world-class airport can be found underground, Vibrant Districts: Malasaña the castizo dishes in the side and high-speed train stations transporting you to any and Conde Duque streets that surround the Atocha and Chamartín. The barrio, town or beach that Just a five-minute stroll north, iconic El Rastro strip. capital’s central location means tickles your fancy. Malasaña and Conde Duque a fast train can deliver you to a are the unofficial stomping sun-drenched beach or scenic grounds of an intrepid class town in under three hours. of young entrepreneurs and hospitality heavyweights. Wander the streets to discover a treasure trove of shops and picturesque plazas by day and the eccentric ambience of bars and restaurants by night.

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Royal Palace