Easy Clothing Repairs Adapted by Judy Hetterman, Owen County Extension Agent for Family & Consumer Science

“To Repair or Not to Repair” completely. The smaller the repair, the less time it will take to mend. It’s easier to iron a Clothing repair is a simple job that patch on the back of thinly worn pants takes little time. Yet many people will let a knees than to wait until the threads tear and garment hang in the closet or will throw it the fabric has to be repaired. away rather than take a few minutes to New make mending replace a or sew a rip. and preventive mending simpler and less No matter what your sewing skills time-consuming than ever before. Many of are, you’ll find that making minor repairs on these items are iron-on or fusible, or require newly purchased items or old favorites is an only basic sewing skills. easy way to stretch your clothing dollar. Make mending fun by using a little Catch those small rips and holes before imagination. For example, patches are not they get larger and require more time and the only way to repair a tear or hole. A skill to fix. strategically placed pocket, row of , The reward of mending a favorite appliqué (purchased or designed yourself), skirt or repairing a child’s outfit for another decorative button or non-functional season of wear is more than a financial may be just the thing to creatively conceal a savings. You will feel a great deal of torn area or reinforce a worn spot. personal satisfaction from making a repair Before beginning a project, take into that is so inconspicuous no one will notice account costs in time and money for it, or from making a patch that is so creative repairing a garment versus buying a it enhances the look of the garment. replacement. Once you decide to do the Mending includes all types of repairs repair, consider the repair alternatives and to damaged garments. Threads weaken, the time and skills required for each. seams split and elastic stretches to its limit As in any craft, there are special in well-worn garments that may still have tools and equipment that are essential to years of use except for these minor signs of professional results. Finally, remember that wear. Elbows and knees of shirts and besides the right tools, a positive attitude pants may wear thin from normal use. Poor and comfortable work area with good fit may cause a to split or a zipper to lighting contribute as much as sewing ability break. Faulty manufacturing may result in a to the success of a repair. raveled , lost button or broken When deciding whether or not to topstitching. An accidental fall or a snag on mend, consider the following questions. a sharp point can turn a brand new garment You may want to chart the answers under into an item that needs repair before it can “Mend It” or “Not Worth it.” be worn again. - Is the damaged area small or large? Some repairs can be avoided with - How difficult is the repair? preventive mending. Reinforce or - How much wear is left in the garment? strengthen areas that receive stress and - How long will it take to mend the hard wear before the damage occurs, or damaged area? before the weak areas wear through - How much time is available for mending?

- Will it take more time to shop for a Throw away that become dull with use replacement garment than it will to because they can damage or snag fabric. mend the damaged area? Keep pins in a handy cushion. - Can you afford to replace the garment? Safety pins – Although safety pins should - Can the garment style still be not be used for permanent repairs, they are purchased? critical for emergency mending. Keep an - Is the garment part of an outfit? assortment of sizes in your mending kit. - Does the garment have sentimental – Five basic colors of thread will value? cover most mending needs. Choose an all- If the decision has been made to mend purpose dark thread (black, brown, or navy) the garment, then you need to mend a that matches your basic wardrobe color. weak or damaged area as soon as Add spools of white, red and a medium possible to prevent it from becoming shade of gray or tan. Complete the worse. The smaller the damage is, the assortment with transparent monofilament less time it takes to mend, the easier it is to thread which can be used with any color of mend, and the more inconspicuous the fabric. results will be. Remember, “A in time – Wear a thimble on your middle saves nine.” finger while hand sewing. are Mending is the process of repairing available in sizes 6 (small) to 12 (large) and or replacing a damaged area in a garment. should fit snugly. Mending may not be inconspicuous but, if it – This flexible wire loop is well done, it will be less obvious than the slips through the eye of a needle to damaged area was and the garment will threading of hand and machine needles. It last longer. is also a handy tool for pulling knit snags to Preventive mending is the process of the wrong side. reinforcing or strengthening areas that – This tool makes it easy to receive hard wear or strain-before they are seams open, rip and remove damaged. stitching. Use the pointed end for removing cut threads. Basic Repair Kit – Good quality 6” (15 cm) scissors with one sharp point are essential Whether off at college or setting up for clipping, snipping and trimming. Use your first home or apartment, you may not these scissors only for sewing so the have a , so most of your blades stay sharp. mending will probably be done by hand. Sewing gauge – Use a 6” (15 cm) sewing You can organize a few basic sewing tools gauge with a sliding marker for making in a small sewing basket, decorative tin or small measurements, such as hems and fishing tackle box. button locations. Hand needles – For general sewing, use Glue stick – Instead of pinning or basting, sharps, medium-length needles with small use a glue stick to provide a temporary round eyes and sharp points. Keep a bond for hems, trims, appliqués and package of assorted sizes (3/9) on hand. . Use crewel needles with large Liquid fray preventer – This colorless eyes for easy threading. plastic liquid controls fraying and raveling Pins – Size 17 stainless steel by stiffening along a cut edge of pins will not rust and are an all-purpose fabrics. Also use it on button holes that size. Pins with plastic heads are become ragged and to control runs in comfortable on fingers and easy to see in pantyhose. bulky fabric or when dropped on the floor. 2

Beeswax or white candle stub – Before and without steam. Before hand sewing, pull thread across one of applying, test iron-on products on an these waxy substances to reduce knotting inconspicuous area of the garment; they and tangling. may make the fabric too stiff. Iron-on Extra – Keep a small container of patches are available in basic colors. Iron- buttons in basic styles and colors to replace on appliqués are an instant way to cover lost and broken buttons. You may want to holes and tears in children’s clothing. store extra buttons that often come with Press cloth – Use a lint-free press cloth coats, dresses, jackets and blouses in this when adhering fusible interfacings and container so you will not forget where they when pressing on the right side of a are. garment. Hooks, eyes and snaps – Have on hand assorted sizes in nickel and black finish for Repair Terms & Techniques light and dark fabrics. Hook and loop How to Thread a Needle (Velcro®) enclosures are also available. ● Diagonally cut a length of thread about 18 inches long. (Breaking the thread Other Special Tools & Notions leaves fuzzy ends and may damage thread. These do not go through the – Use a 60” (152 cm) needle easily.) flexible cloth or plastic tape for body and ● Grasp the needle between your thumb garment measurements. and forefinger. Liquid marking pencil or chalk marker – Felt-tip pens for marking the placement of ● Brace your other hand against the trims, hems and alterations are available in needle. two types. One type leaves a mark that ● Moisten behind the needle hole. fades and disappears within a few hours; ● Push thread through the hole. the other rinses off easily with water. Fusible web – Fusible web is a nonwoven Baste bonding agent available in strips and 1. Hand-baste – Using single thread, take sheets. Place it between two layers of evenly spaced ¼” (6mm) straight stitches fabric, press with an iron to melt the web on stitching line. and bond the layers. Some brands come with a paper backing on one side. Pressure sensitive fusible web – This product comes in sheets or strips with a 2. Pin-baste – Place pins at right angles to paper backing on one side or both. Apply stitching line so they can be removed easily web to edge of hem by pressing with your during sewing. fingers. Remove paper backing and finger press hem to garment. Hem can be repositioned. Bond becomes permanent until pressed with a hot iron. Be sure to follow manufactures instructions. Fusible – This is often used to 3. Machine-baste – Use longest stitch on reinforce thin or weak areas. Follow machine, usually 4-5mm or 6 to 8 stitches instructions on wrapper. per inch. Iron-on patches & appliqués – These heavy, adhesive-baked fabrics are available as precut patches, tapes and appliqués. They usually adhere with a lower heat than 3

4. Basting tape – Place double-faced 2. – Fasten permanent basting tape on one layer of fabric close to stitching with a short stitch behind starting stitching line. Remove paper covering and point. When you do not want a knot to place second layer of fabric in position. Do show on right side of fabric, take two small not stitch through tape because it leaves a stitches in same position. gummy residue on needle. Remove tape after stitching if it is not water soluble.

Double faced basting tape

5. Glue stick – This water-soluble adhesive forms a temporary bond. Use it sparingly to 3. Ending knot – Take two small position trims, pockets and patches. It may . Insert needle through second also be used on fabrics such as vinyl, stitch to form loop. Pull thread tight to knot. where a pin or needle hole would show.

Glue Stick

BASIC TECHNIQUES

Securing Thread Method 1 Method 2 1. Knot – When using a single strand of thread, twist one end over index finger to form a knot. This knot is easy to remove for the start of hand basting.

Method 1

Reinforcing

Method 2 1. Fusing – Fusible interfacing or mending fabric provides extra strength to fabric that is wearing thin.

2. Two rows of stitching – Use normal stitch length with second row of stitching in 1/8-inch (3 mm) from the first.

Form knot at end of thread 4

3. Stretch stitches – These built-in patches or pressure tape and with some machine stitches usually use a hems. forward/backward motion, putting more thread into a seam to provide “give.” They are not restricted to stretch and knit fabrics.

3. Backstitch – This hand stitch is very strong. It is especially useful for repairing 4. Fabric – Stitch ½-inch (1.3 cm) wide split seams. Make small stitches and work , seam tape, or lightweight fabric from right to left, inserting needle behind strip into a straight or curved seam. previous stitch. Bring needle up same distance in front of stitch. Continue to insert and bring up needle half a stitch length behind and in front of previous stitch. Stitches on underside are twice as long as 5. Small stitches – Use stitch length of on right side; stitch looks like machine 1.5-2mm or 18 to 20 stitches per inch to stitching on right side. stitch areas of stress or areas to be clipped.

Stitches used for By Machine:

Seam Repairs and Hemming 1. Normal – Use 10 – 12 stitches per inch (2.5 cm). By Hand:

1. Catchstitch – Worked between the layers of fabric from left to right with the thread crossing. The catchstitch has some 2. – For most zigzag give. A small stitch is taken ¼-inch down stitching, use full width. This is usually the from the hem edge. Another small stitch is highest number on the machine. Stitch taken in the garment opposite the hem length adjustment determines whether the edge. This is a common hemming stitch. stitch is widely or closely spaced.

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4. Stretch stitches – If your machine has stretch stitches, they may be 2. Whipstitch or Hemming Stitch – Use forward/backward straight stitches, a to permanently hold two edges of fabric combination of straight and zigzag stitches, together. Insert needle at right angle to or decorative stitching that combines edge, picking up only a few threads. Sew straight and zigzag stitches, such as slanted stitches as close together as honeycomb. necessary. Use this stitch for sewing on

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What to do when a button tears Bring the needle up through the material, away from the fabric but not through the button. Take out the matchstick or toothpick. Mend the hole. Cut off any loose threads around the hole. Cut a piece of material a little bigger than the hole to use as a patch. Use the same color if you can. Put the patch between the and the outer material. Wrap the thread 4 or 5 times around the threads holding the button. Pull tight. This forms a the thread which elevates the button off the fabric surface and secures the button.

Sew the edge of the hole to the patch.

Push needle to the wrong side of material. Take 2 or 3 small stitches under the button. Sew the Button on with a thread shank. With each stitch pull the needle through the Knot a double thread. Make a small stitch thread loop. Pull the thread tight to make a through the material where the button goes. knot with each stitch. Cut off the extra thread.

Replacing a Shank Button Bring the needle up through one hole of the button and down the other. Put a match A shank button has a loop under the button stick or round toothpick between the instead of holes. garment and the button. This keeps you from sewing on the button too tight.

Knot a double thread. Make a small stitch through the material where the button goes.

With double thread, make 3 or 4 more stitches through the button and material. If the button has 4 holes, take the same number of stitches through the other two holes. Bring the needle through the button shank and the material.

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With double thread, make 3 or 4 more Sew Velcro® on waistband, using a strip of stitches through the button shank and the tape. Stitch the hook side to underlap and material. the loop side to overlap, stitching on all four sides. The waistband will be adjustable in garments without a zipper, such as a wrap- around skirt with a side pocket opening.

Push the needle to the wrong side of material. Take 2 or 3 small stitches under the button. With each stitch, pull the needle through the thread loop. Pull the thread tight to make a knot with each stitch. Cut off extra thread. This type of fastener is a good replacement choice for children’s wear and older adults that have difficulty using other types of fasteners.

Hooks and Eyes – Sew hook on underside If button shank is thick, it is recommended of overlap without stitching through to right that a thread shank be made under the side. Use a single strand of thread and button shank. take four or five stitches through each hole. Stitch two or three stitches across the end, How to Apply Snaps and under the hook, to hold it flat. Position eye Other Closures in place and stitch through holes as for hook. Secure thread on underside.

Snaps – Snaps should be used only where there is little strain on the closure. Attach ball section to overlap and socket section to underlap. Secure thread at snap location.

Take three or four straight stitches up through each hole; do not stitch through to right side of garment. Secure thread with tiny stitches in fabric at the last hole. Skirt hooks are heavy-duty hooks and eyes

that are used on waistbands as a sturdier

closure than ordinary hooks and eyes.

These hooks are strong and flat so they will

not slide out of the eye. There are some

available that clamp on.

Hook and Loop Fasteners (Velcro®) – Sew by hand with a single strand of thread. Whipstitch edges, being careful not to go How to Patch Knees in Pants – through to right side of overlap. When Sew-On or Iron-On stitching underlap, which will not show on right side, stitch through all layers of fabric. If you are going to sew on a patch – Cut off the ragged edges of the hole. Cut a piece of sturdy material about 2-inches longer and wider than the hole. If possible, use the same kind of material as the pants. 7

To make a nice corner, stop the machine with the needle down at the corner. Lift the and turn the pant leg. Lower the presser foot and continue sewing to the next corner. Overlap stitches at the end to keep them from coming out. Fold under all the edges of the patch ½- inch. Press the edges to crease them.

Now you can pin the patch over the hole. Be sure the patch is smooth, flat, and Sew it by Hand – Use the backstitch for a straight on the pant leg. secure hand stitched patch. Remember it looks like machine stitching from the top side. Refer to hand stitches on page 5.

Sew it on by Machine – A machine stitched patch stays on better, but it’s hard to do on small pant legs. Be careful when you sew. It’s easy to sew the pant leg together by mistake. Start at the bottom of the pant leg and it up in your hands Be creative, patches can also be different to make a nest. The patch will be in the shapes. Use pictures in coloring books for middle of the nest. When you sew, keep patterns. pulling the back of the pant leg away from the needle.

If you are going to iron-on a patch – this is easy and fast – Use an iron-on mending patch. Follow directions on the package. Cut the patch a little bigger than the hole. Start sewing at the upper corner of the Round off the corners. patch. Use a medium-length stitch. Stitch around the patch close to the edge.

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Put a folded paper grocery bag or Round the corners and fuse interfacing to newspaper inside the pant leg so the patch wrong sides of both seam allowances. won’t stick to the back of the pant leg.

Press the pant leg around the hole to get it 3. Stitch seam either by machine or by smooth and warm. Put the patch over the hand using a backstitch. Reinforce with a hole with the shiny side down. Make sure second row of stitching if necessary. the patch is placed straight on the leg.

Hold the iron firmly on the patch and press according to the package directions. Lift How to Repair a Tear, Cut or Small the iron to move to the next section. Do not slide the iron. Press all edges of the patch. Hole Without Sewing Let it cool. Then, check to see if patch has stuck. If not, press it again and cool. Pull 1. Press the torn area to even up threads the paper bag out of pant leg. Any paper which may have been pulled off . Trim that sticks will wash off. loose threads from edges of the tear.

Iron on patches can also be cut into decorative shapes. Avoid pointed corners 2. Place tear, face down, on pressing as these tend to come loose. surface, gently bringing edges together. If there is a hole, cut a small How to Repair a Torn Seam patch of matching fabric from the hem or other

concealed area of the How to repair a pulled seam (fused garment. Apply paper method) – backed fusible web to 1. Remove stitching from pulled area and 1 fabric patch or cut patch inch beyond each end of pulled seam. from fusible interfacing or

mending fabric. Patch should be 1 inch

larger than tear or hole. Round the corners.

Place patch, fusible side down, over tear or

hole. Touch tip of hot iron to patch to 2. Cut two strips of soft, lightweight fusible in place. interfacing, such as fusible knit, the length of the opening and about 1 inch wide. 9

3. Turn garment right side up to check • 1 to 1½ inches for pants and flared placement of patch. Make sure cut edges skirts meet. Press to fuse following directions on Make a marker the size you want your hem. package. Let cool before handling. Use a ruler or a piece of paper with a notch in the side. Place one end of the marker on the fold of the hem. Trim the hem by How to Make a New Hem cutting to the notch. Be careful to cut only the turned up part of the hem. Move the Take out the hem – Pull out the old hem marker along the hem and continue cutting. stitches. Press out the crease from the old hem. Use a steam iron or use a damp clean cloth or paper towel between the hem and the iron.

Finish the edge – If the fabric ravels, finish the edge. By machine – Stitch near the edge. A zigzag stitch works better than a straight Mark the new hem – Pin up the hem to stitch. see where it looks best. Mark a yardstick or By hand – Turn under the edge ¼-inch and broom handle that isn’t far off the floor, press it flat. Take out the pins.

Have someone mark the hem with pins. Make the new hem – Try one of these Use the guide on the yardstick. methods: • Hand Hem – You can use this for most clothes. Turn it inside out. Fold the hem back so only 1/8-inch of the hem shows past this fold.

Turn up the hem – Fold up the hem so the marking pins are on the fold, and pin. Try it on to see if the hem is even. Press the hem fold. Do not Take a small stitch in the hem about press over the marking pins. 1/8-inch from the edge. If you turned Remove them as you press. under the hem edge, make this stitch through both layers of fabric.

Trim the hem to an even width – Decide how wide to make the hem. • 2 inches for most straight hems 10

Then ½-inch away, pick up 1 or 2 References: threads from the fold. Don’t pull the Clothing Care & Repair (1985). Singer thread too tight—the hem will show Sewing Reference Library. By DeCosse less if the stitches are loose. Inc. 5900 Green Oak Drive, Minnetonka, MN. • Fusible Web – Try this for pants and skirts that are quite straight. You Dedic, B.J. Hems, H.E. 2-3200, can use fusible web instead of Cooperative Extension Service of Kentucky, stitching to hold the hem in place. 1987. You can buy fusible web in strips or in a large piece. Dedic, B.J. Quick Clothing Repairs, H.E. 2- 305, Cooperative Extension of Kentucky, 1985.

Stefanelli, M. The Basics: Simple Hand Sewing, Sew News, February 2006.

Use a piece of web. Test to see if it holds and looks right on your fabric. Cut the fusible web into strips ¼-inch to ½-inch wide. Put the web inside the hem, just below the top. That

keeps the web from sticking to the iron.

Follow the instructions that come with the fusible web to press it in place.

Revised by: Marjorie M. Baker, M.S. FCS Extension Associate for and Clothing February 2006

Educational programs of the Kentucky Cooperative Extension serve all people regardless of race, color, age, sex, religion, disability, or national origin.

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