ama-cycle.org district37ama.org Newsletter for the Dual Sport Enthusiast May/June 2009 Desert Dash:... A Dash to a Blast “I'm still in the afterglow used so it was pretty familiar at first. we see--sandy/loamy fast About 2.5 miles north of camp is Oriflame turns though the cactus right now of one of Canyon, a neat trail that cuts across the and up and over the hill the greatest DS rides valley and around a hill to put you out on and back onto the highway ever. Randy and crew Hwy 78. It was at the junction of the can- and down into Borrego yon and S2 that I had my first indication Springs for gas. sure know how to put something was wrong. You see, I ride a Went ahead and topped Honda 450x with the stock mechanical a ride together.” off, even though we had odometer. I never use a GPS (although I only ridden about 30 miles Donn Nay, from the carry it for emergencies in my backpack) and it was another 50 to and rely on the roll chart and my very D-37 message board next gas. But as Yellowjacket always says, “Never accurate odo. Well, we came to the first pass up gas or water as you never know what you turn and I was already off by .3 miles--not By Donn Nay , may encounter.” The next section took us out of good. By the end of the first section I was D-37 Rider Rep Borrego Springs, around the dump, and down the way off in mileage so I could tell I would first of what would be many sand washes. Then we This was my third ride have to rely on Brian’s navigation skills. went back out onto the highway and made a right down in Anza Borrego with the San Diego Adven- Fortunately, he had stepped up and ture Riders. I was really looking forward to the turn into the Blue Inn for the second gas. weekend and had marked it on my calendar After the Blue Inn we headed down San back in November. Got my brother-in-law/ Felipe Wash; this wash is HUGE. In fifth gear riding partner/fellow Viewfinder, Brian and running hard for about five miles, we (NoSloMo) Matthews, to commit to accom- eventually popped up out of the wash and pany me and we sent in our entries. angled over to Pole Road and went south. I Our usual M.O. is to meet at my office Friday remembered Pole Road to be a really nasty afternoon and head out early to beat the traf- SCORE road, but it wasn’t too bad this year. fic. Sure enough, we were on the road a little At one point I was too far off the road and we before 2 p.m. and beat most of the traffic got separated. Brian headed back to our last down to the 15. Three hours later we were at rendezvous point looking for me and I asked Butterfield Ranch Resort. For those of you a stopped pair if they had seen him. “What who haven’t been there, it’s a nice R.V. park was he riding?” they asked. “A KTM,” I re- that has fallen on tough times and is currently plied, knowing that wasn’t much to go by; for sale. It has great campsites with pull-thru’s must have been 80% orange bikes on this and full hookups. For those of us with toy ride. mounted his GPS. This was his first ride haulers it is great, and the sites are pretty roomy as Eventually we reconnected, which was a good at really trying to use it, so we had a well. I wouldn’t mind doing a weekend or so there thing, because now my odometer had completely backup plan. some other time and exploring more of the roads stopped working so I was totally blind. From Pole and trails in and around the state park. Speaking of the first section, it’s always a Road we headed south down some neat sand We got unloaded and set up and headed back to fun fire road with some rocky sections washes and across the Plaster City and Supersti- the rec. room for signups around 7 p.m., but no- thrown in that get you warmed up right tion open areas. For those of you who have never body was there. A note on the door told us to come away. Then it’s a blast down Hwy 78 for been down there, the area is HUGE, with a wide back at 8 p.m. At 8 p.m. still no signups, but there about 10 miles to one of the best trails variety of terrain. were about four guys there, includ- We eventually came to a trail that par- ing Gil, to upload the GPS tracks. alleled the railroad tracks and was a “Well, guess Randy will be here in GPS-only option. Since we were feel- the morning,” we said, and headed ing a bit cocky about following the back to the trailer for a movie and GPS, we decided to give it a try. The an early night. (Come to find out the track took us to Superstition Mountain, next morning, Randy had issues which is a large sand dune area where with his trailer lights that caused him all the weekend warriors line up to to arrive very late Friday night.) climb the hills. The loop took us down Saturday dawned bright and clear. the big dune and out and around in a There was a dusting of snow on the big loop, through some cross-grain surrounding mountain tops and the rollers, and back up into the dunes, grass was green with a few little which is where Brian lost the track. We flowers peeking out—a perfect day must have ridden 80% of those dunes for riding. We didn’t even need a trying to get back on the track. We jacket at 8 a.m., which is when we finally succeeded in finding the correct started off. “trail” through the sand and got back headed toward the rendezvous point We had reviewed the first day’s with the main trail. routes and could see some of the previous trails were going to be This trail wound east and then south down into another sand over the hill. At wash that connected with one point we another GPS-only option. stopped for a This turned out to be quite break and sweep a detour, up one sand caught us. wash, down another, up Guess our little one and out onto a trail, detour put us only to find it dump back back a bit! Then down into another sand it was off to the wash. “Enough of this Squeeze, a little sand,” I said to myself. 6 foot drop off “I’m tired!” Eventually we through some re-connected with the rocks—not a big highway and made it back deal at all and to the campground. much hyped. Checking our telemetry, Next, a mile we had gone 200 miles in down the road, is six hours with an average Heart Attack Hill, overall speed of 30 mph. again not a big Now I knew why my rear deal, just that it’s toward Plaster City East, where we jumped on the highway was sore! for a bit and then bailed off and into another sand wash, a blind approach looping under two bridges. It was a fun sand wash with few As usual, dinner at this to a short, steep hill with a sharp turn at the bottom. A tracks, and eventually we came to the freeway, where the ride did not disappoint. quick break here and we were off again, down the canyon, trail went under by going through a LOW tunnel. Ever rid- The Airhead BMW club with great vistas, great traction, and perfect temps (need to den in deep sand, almost lying on your seat to keep from cooked up smoked tri-tip, lose this jacket soon, I thought). hitting your head? It’s not easy. (Come to find out later, we salad, chili, rolls, and all had taken the wrong tunnel. The correct one was paved!) the fixin’s. That tri-tip was some of the best I’ve ever had, and melted in your mouth.

After dinner there were quite a few goodies to be raffled off, though not as many in past years due to our economic conditions. But still, a nice pile of stuff. Everything from an Arai helmet to to t- shirts. The park manager came in and announced that she had arranged for a singer after our raffle if anyone was interested. We were too tired and Now it was on the highway and back down to the valley for decided a movie and some more sand. Oh joy! Actually, MOST of the sand was- early to bed was our best n’t too bad here, just a few sections of really deep stuff. bet so we passed on the The route took us down some sand washes and across entertainment. Lights “Cut Across Trail”. I remembered this as a whooped-out were out by 10 p.m. trail, but it was in great condition today with no whoops. So Sunday dawned not quite it was fifth gear and charging, up over a small rise, get so warm with scattered some air, on the brakes, drop to fourth, gas it through a clouds so it was gonna be turn, into fifth, and repeat for about five miles. What a gas! a jacket day, at least at Then we came to a small section of the Badlands (which first. The first section was are really interesting). “Wouldn’t want to try to ride down up the highway and off there,” we thought. Another small drop off/hill down a tight, into the dirt toward the windy, fun wash, then more two-track to the highway. famous Squeeze and Heart Attack Hill. Unfortunately, I was From here we headed west on some great two track, par- still navigating blind allel to Hwy 8, and eventually the third gas and lunch in the and Brian must have town of Ocotillo. San Diego Adventure Riders (SDAR) had been a bit fuzzy as support from The Brown Bag Sandwich Company that sup- he had us going the plied lunch. Your choice of a wide variety of pre-made wrong way RIGHT sandwiches, fresh veggies, and carrot cake really hit the OUT OF THE spot, since it was now about 2 p.m. CAMPGROUND! So, after realizing HIS After lunch we topped off our drink systems and headed mistake, we turned west on the north side of the freeway, then north toward around, stopped and Anza Borrego on another neat, fast two track through some topped off gas again, extremely pretty, but scary, cactus gardens, I’ve never and headed in the seen so many cholla in one area, and I certainly didn’t want RIGHT direction. to get off the trail. Once we got through that section it was back on the highway north toward the Butterfield Resort. Once again, beautiful scenery and a fun But Randy had another adventure in store for us--a loop two track up and Again, my navigator missed a turn, and we had to double back, but were Since we’ve ridden this a few times now, we opted to cut that part out and glad we did. Found some neat washes and a small sand dune section hit the trailer, with 150 more miles ridden on Sunday. before hitting the tarmac and into gas (85 miles) and lunch in Borrego Springs. We got back to camp around 2 p.m. and decided to stay the night. We tipped a few beers, cleaned up, and bench raced with Randy and a few Lunch was courtesy of the Borrego Springs Volunteer Fire Department, club members before burgers, beer, and movies. Up and on the road by with donations gladly accepted. It consisted of barbecue chicken, beef, the next day at 9 a.m., and made it to the office by noon. Not too shabby. potato salad, grilled corn on the cob, fresh rolls and butter, and chocolate cake. (What, no ice cream? We all know firemen love their ice cream!) It All in all one EXCELLENT weekend: 350 miles, no crashes save for three was another great meal, courtesy of the ride. tip-overs in the sand, and the only equipment problem was my odometer and a cracked rearview mirror. Thanks, San Diego Adventure Riders and After lunch we hopped on the highway and headed back up the moun- Randy Lazar, for an AWESOME weekend of dual sport. This is what dual tain to the same trail we had ridden Saturday on Section Two. This time sport riding is all about, and we will definitely see you again next year! ~ ~ it was a little chewed up from all the bikes but not too bad, and it sure was FAST! At one point Brian said his speedo hit 61 going down the Photos: Adam Casper, Chris Crawford, Bruce H., Ken, Doug, and Carguy. canyon two track. I know I was in fifth most of the time. What a blast! It was along this last section (for us) that we came across Randy’s New York buddies. We would pass them, then they would pass us; all good fun, for sure.

The last section takes you up the highway and back into Oriflamme can- Thumper Racing yon, on a side trip through Rodriquez Canyon, and back to the highway. Phone 6614241800 ThumperStore.com

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May 12 District 37 Dual Sport Committee meeting at 7:30 p.m., 3550 Foothill Blvd., Glendale, CA.

May 16 (Saturday) will be the Orange County Dualies’ Charity Ride, starting and finishing at Beaumont Motorcycles. Tour the mountains of the San Jacinto District of the San Bernardino National Forest to beautiful Idyllwild for lunch and gas. The route will be 100-150 miles, depending on your selection of extra loops or hard way options. The ride is limited, so pre-entry is recommended! Pro- ceeds from this ride will be donated to the Pediatric Brain Tumor Foundation. A flyer was enclosed in the last newsletter. For more information call Larry Harmier at 714-871-6911 (home) or 562-243-3301 (cell).

June 14 Ride For Kids Dual Sport Ride at Glen Helen Raceway Park in San Bernardino. The route will tour the mountains of the San Bernardino National Forest. This charity ride benefits the Pediatric Brain Tumor Foundation. If you have ridden this event before, you know the great cause it benefits. The fundraising kit flyer is enclosed and also available at www.rideforkids.org or at the start. No pre-entry needed; $35 minimum donation to ride. Take the 215 freeway to just north of San Bernardino. Turn off at Palm Ave., go west and follow the signs. For more information, call Jim Woods at 805-526-4122. Rider Complaint? | (E-mail to Jim Nicholson, June 27-28 Big Bear Trail Riders’ will host the Big Bear Run featuring two days of challeng- President, Big Bear Trail Riders) ing riding in the San Bernardino Mountains. Finisher plaques awarded to those who complete June 29, 2006 the tough Saturday “A” loop. Optional easy way routes available. The start/finish is at the Big Bear Convention Center, 42900 Big Bear Blvd. at Division Drive. RV camping at the start area. Jim,

A Saturday night barbecue dinner will be included. GPS navigation download available. The My brother Joe and I arrived Satur- flyer/entry form is enclosed. For more info call 818-391-3083 or 818-391-3031 or visit the club day and rode your little ride in the web site at http://bigbeartrailriders.com/ . San Bernardino Mountains. We both hated this outing. It was too hot, July 14 will be the District 37 Dual Sport Committee date selection meeting for the 2010 too dusty, too rocky, too long, too calendar of D-37 dual sport rides. Meeting starts at 7:30 p.m., 3550 Foothill Blvd., Glendale. wet, not wet enough, not enough trees, there weren’t any apple pas- July 18-19 Countdown will host the Bridgeport 400 Adventure Bike Ride . The ride will start tries in the morning, and there was and finish each day at a motel in Bridgeport. Ride is available for both Dual Sport and Adven- no decaf coffee. There were also ture Bikes. The route will tour the Eastern Sierra Mountains. See enclosed flyer. For more info too many of those pesky pink rib- t bons. We didn’t get lost once, not call Jerry at 775-884-0399. once the entire day! We didn’t need one of those expensive GPS units at August 1 Big Bear Trail Riders’ Moonlight Madness night ride will take advantage of a all. Oh, how would we ever survive? nearly full moon and a warm evening with a 5 to 7 p.m. start at the Big Bear Convention Center. GPS navigation download will be available. The flyer/entry form is enclosed. For more info call And, whose stupid idea was it to 818-391-3083 or 818-391-3031 or visit the club web site at http://bigbeartrailriders.com/ . make us stop at a malt shop and make us have the best banana

shakes I have ever had? Now, how August 22-29 Countdown will have the second half of the Mexico to Canada ride starting at were we expected to want to con- Fallon, Nevada, and finishing at the Canadian border. This ride is limited to 16 riders. A flyer tinue to ride? was enclosed in the Nov/Dec newsletter. Start planning for next year’s ride now. For more infor- Larry Bradley mation visit the web site at http://www.mex2can.com or call Jerry at 775-884-0399. t P.S. Please put our names at September 19-20 Chaparrals MC’s Alpine Trails ride, Wofford Heights the top of your list for next year’s ride. We can’t stop talk- September 26 Las Vegas Dual Sport.com’s Primm, NV, ride. ing to all our friends about how much fun we had!

October 16-18 Ventura County MC’s Three-Day Bishop Ride , Bishop We both wanted to say thank you to all of your club members and November 27-28 District 37 Dual Sport’s LA - Barstow to Vegas, Palmdale t their families who stood out there in the hot sun and cheered each of December 13 Lost Coyotes MC’s Ridgecrest ride. us riders like we were riding and leading the Paris to Dakar. It’s t these little things that make me indicates an Adventure Bike ride, also suitable for dual sport bikes want to ride this ride every year.

Ride flyers are available online at district37ama.org/dualsport/ridingevents.php . Oh, congratulations to those riders who were able to complete the en- Visit the D-37 website and message board at district37ama.org/forums/ to make connec- hard section. If it hadn’t been for that banana shake, we would tions with other riders, get current updates for all rides, learn about pressing political have finished the rest of the hard land or legal issues, and for equipment and product discussions. ~ ~ ~ sections too. ~ ~ President’s Report 2009 D-37 Dual Sport Officers Kieth Huff – President/LA-B-to-V Coordinator Here we are heading into summer after a great, 562-598-9748 or [email protected] if not epic, past few months of dual sport rides. I just finished up the Countdown Death Valley Gil Busick – Vice President 350 ride. I rode with some new friends: Dave, [email protected] Dennis, and Tony D. There were no shortage of twists, turns and ad- Joe Danega – Secretary venture. There are a couple different Death Valley ride reports on the [email protected] message board; some great pics too. We all made it home in one Jim Nicholson – Treasurer piece and I look forward to riding with them again. 626-350-2101 or [email protected] th On the horizon is the Dualies benefit ride on May 16 . The Dualies Paul Flanders – Referee donate most of the proceeds to the Ride for Kids event taking place 626-792-7384 or [email protected] June 14 th . Jim Woods and Buddy Percin are our task force leaders for Jim Woods Ride for Kids and have been in the thick of the planning for months. We can use all the volunteers we can get. Please contact Jim at Simi 805-526-4122 or [email protected] Valley Honda at 805-526-4122 to help out or get info on the event. Dan Yuknavage – GPS Geek The Ride for Kids is not only a great cause, but an excellent first time [email protected] dual sport/adventure ride. Julie Angell – Newsletter Editor

Then we have a great summer of riding coming up. Big Bear Trail Rid- 626-533-5124 or [email protected] ers, BBTR.org , have a day and a night ride. The Big Bear Challenge is Rod Kirkbride – Rider Rep June 27-28. After I get my plaque this year, I’ll be ready for a cool, [email protected] summer evening night ride that BBTR also has on August 1st. Also, Donn Nay – Rider Rep Countdown has a new Bridgeport Adventure ride on July 18-19. [email protected] LA-B-to-V is fast approaching. We decided to start in Palmdale this Marc Nelissen – Co-Webmaster year. KTM has picked up the Adventure Bike Series and Palmdale Su- 909-289-8730 or [email protected] percycle is excited to have us starting there. This puts us in the dirt Brian Hannigan – Co-Webmaster right from the start. Starting in the desert has been a favorite of the [email protected] riders the past couple of years. We have many route options and Gil has come up with another challenging couple of days. Be in shape if you want to do the hard sections. We’ll also have an easy route and Dual Sport CLUBS & PROMOTERS Adventure bike route again this year. This is another event that de- Big Bear Trail Riders, Jim Nicholson pends on the work of volunteers and we really appreciate all the extra help you give us year after year. 818-391-3083 or email at [email protected]

I attended a Desert Advisory Council (DAC) meeting in March. The Cal Poly Penguins, Nohe Valadez DAC is comprised of people from many different backgrounds. Some 209-840-2264 or see www.cpslopenguins.com of them are mining industry, OHV community, film industry, plant and wildlife people, and a few more. It’s a forum where people come to- Chaparrals MC, Mike Adams gether to discuss and deliver input on desert uses and manage- 562-627-9693 or email at [email protected] ment. As diverse as the panel is, the proceedings were civil and infor- mative. On this particular weekend we were taken on a Countdown, Jerry Counts tour by some of the clubs that use the Hammers section of the John- 775-884-0399 or see www.mex2can.com son Valley OHV Area throughout the year. The Marines were also there to update their progress on scoping and studies for the pro- Las Vegas Dual Sport, Steve Makar posed expansion into Johnson Valley. We need to stay informed on 702-641-5555 or see www.lasvegasdualsport.com the proposed expansion. Lost Coyotes MC, Jim Wilson I hope to see you out on the trail. Enjoy your seat time! 661-951-7078 or email at [email protected] Kieth Huff, D-37 Dual Sport President Malcolm Smith Motorsports 951-687-1300 or see www.malcolmsmith.com Orange County Dualies, Larry Harmier 562-243-3301 or see www.dualies.com San Diego Adventure Riders, Randy Lazar 619-825-6308 or see www.dualsport-sd.com Ventura County MC, Adam Casper 805-276-0156 or see www.venturacountymc.com apparent nothing would work to make this tire fit. A Death Valley 350, quick trip to KC Engineering results in the very weird Kenda ‘Kings Tire’ in 5.10 size spooned onto the fat rim. The ‘Kings Tire’ resembles an off road tire with a Adventure Style brain-like tread pattern. Wonder how this will work in the sand and rocks? By Bob Pushwa

New Year’s Eve means different things to different peo- ple. Many look forward to parties, some go out on the town, and others head for San Francisco to watch the fireworks. For me, New Year’s Eve means heading for California BMW in Mountain View to buy a new motorcy- cle from Carolyn Krchmar! December 31, 2008, marked the second time in four years that I was Carolyn’s last customer of the year. This year I was rewarded with a great deal on a new bumblebee yellow/black BMW

F800GS. Happy New Year!

Wild@Heart Crash Protection

Finally Ron brings a wonderfully machined, stainless steel plate to be used as a luggage rack. This becomes a point of conversation the entire weekend as it is called every- thing from a portable frying pan to a miniature helicopter pad. Wait until I strap a 12 pack on it…we will see who laughs while I’m swilling beer!

The six-hour drive to Ridgecrest from Northern California is long and boring. Arriving at the Motel 6 for check-in, I begin to have an uneasy feeling. There are bikes every- where, but all are dedicated, lightweight dirt machines Excited as I was to have a new motorcycle, factors like and not giant adventure bikes. Hmmm…maybe this will the Pittsburgh Steelers run to the Super Bowl, rainy not be a “Perfect for first timers” ride. weather, guests in town, and a new job conspired to limit The Death Valley 350 is an AMA District 37 ride offered riding the new machine to only a handful of short stints by Countdown. As it turns out we meet Jerry Counts, aka totaling just 800 miles. Now it is March and 800 street Countdown, who informs me the ride has several ‘Hard miles will not suffice. Where to go to give the beast a Way’ splits, including the infamous Goler Wash/Mengel good test? Pass section. Last year I crashed my KTM 990 Adventure My riding buddy, Ron Granholt, forwards a flyer for the during Jim Lubin’s Utah Adventure ride on the big step- Death Valley 350, which is advertised as a two-day ad- up in Goler Wash. So I am a little apprehensive. So much venture bike tour on mostly graded and paved roads. for “Perfect for first timers.” The flyer says, “Perfect for first timers” and “V-Stroms, Friday night at the Motel 6 is marked by ghetto violence 950’s and GS’s are all welcome.” Sounds like a great way in the parking lot. It is going to be a long 350 miles. to test the F800GS in the dirt without too much risk. As usual, Ron and I are the last bikes to leave the motel In the weeks leading up to the event I decide more on Saturday morning. I have lowered tire pressure to 23 crash/rock protection is in order. I install the beautiful psi in the front and 25 in the rear, hoping this will bring BMW accessory skid plate with no problem. The traction without flattening my rims. Hope, hope, and Touratech folding shift lever and headlight guard are on more hope. the bike in minutes. The Wild@Heart crash bars and VPS Barkbuster hand guards are another story. Much sweat- A quick trip down a side street and we hit the desert ing and coarse language is required before they are roads for the first leg of the ride to Trona. Ron and his properly installed. KTM 400EXC quickly pull a large gap while I struggle with the F800GS’ first dirt miles. The rear ‘Kings Tire’ hooks That chore completed, I pull the wheels and install a up just fine, but the sandy 2-track has me struggling to Dunlop 908RR full knobby on the front but hold anything resembling a line. Back and forth I flail, cannot get the Michelin T63 on the rear. I purchased a trying to keep from being jettisoned into the desert sage- 130/80R17 rear tire thinking that was plenty wide for the brush and rocks. The F800GS carries the fuel below the F800GS, but once I saw the Behr 4.25” rear rim it was seat, which results in a light front end. This lightness makes for quick on the street, but in the sand changing surfaces. This bike has potential. Nice! the front wheel hunts like a bloodhound on the trail of an The trip down the other side is a different adventure. escaped convict. The feeling is more pronounced when Turning the anti-lock brake option to the off position the throttle is liberally applied, which is an absolute ne- unleashes the full power of the Brembo twin-disc front/ cessity in the sand. A steering damper is the permanent single-disc rear brake system. This bike can stop in a solution, but, for now, I’ll need to ride loose, float with hurry. I soon realize, however, that the idle level is set the bike, and try to keep out of the sagebrush! too low for dirt riding, and the bike stalls on a steep, loose downhill section. Bouncing and bucking over rocks Hmmm... Where are all the adventure bikes? and whoops, I frantically search for the starter button. Once the motor is fired the F800GS straightens, and tracks well down the degraded downhill. The brakes have excellent modulation as well as power. Maneuvering over and around the plethora of rocks I reach the bottom drenched in sweat. Ron roosts the turns and jumps the rocks on the lighter KTM and looks fresh as a daisy, while I shed perspiration-soaked layers. It’s not easy riding an adventure bike that weighs close to 500 lbs.

The next challenge is the infamous Goler Wash/Mengel Pass/Mengel Valley section. This is where Charley Man- sion made a ‘home’ and also where I crashed my KTM on the previous trip. On Jim Lubin’s Utah Adventure trip it took many hours to complete this section as riders crashed, bikes broke, and trailside repairs were neces- sary. I was more than a little nervous about history re- peating itself.

Regrouping at Trona with a splash of gas, a couple Snick- ers for the pack, and we are off again on paved Highway 178. At the 6.9 mile mark (after leaving gas at Trona), a dirt road to the right marks the first ‘Hard Way’ split. Ron and I pull over to contemplate the decision. It appears the ‘EasyWay’ is simply a paved road to Ballarat…too easy. The roll chart indicates that the ‘Hard Way’ consists of “a 20 mile short cut with some sand and a lot of rocks.” A group of riders on full dirt bikes pull in and we ask the leader about the ‘Hard Way’ route. He takes one look at the F800GS and states emphatically that it will not make it! Inquiring why, he says that the route undu- lates up and over the pass with many loose, rocky sec- tions, a large step-up, and a roller coaster rocky decent. Hmmm…well I wanted a test. ‘Hard Way’ it is!

Ron allows me to lead in case he needs to pick up the pieces and we head for the pass. The F800GS continues to ‘hunt’ in the sand but as the terrain solidifies the bike Ron heading up Goler Wash stabilizes. The ‘Kings Tire’ digs and the Rally Raid sticks as we claw up and over the pass. The linear power of the Again Ron allows me to lead, but this time I was feeling a parallel twin provides control and traction over the growing sense of confidence. The tires were working well and, although there was water running over the step-up, the F800GS dispatched the waterfall with no problem. The electric-motor-like power delivery minimizes rear wheel spin until you want it. This motorcycle can be rid- den much like a full dirt bike if you are careful to keep from bashing the rocks. The suspension is too lightly sprung for all out, full throttle assaults on rock gardens. Perhaps that is a survival feature engineered in by BMW. Anyway, the fun factor soars as we ride high above the valley finally topping out at Mengel Pass. Excellent!

Ron and the others on lightweight dirt bikes simply wade over the rocks on the downhill side of the pass, but this was impossible on the F800GS. I dismount and Ron as- sists in walking the bike over the 30 yards of boulders. Discretion is the better part of valor, as they say, or ‘Live to ride another day!’ Getting the hang of the F800GS ! Ron, the F800GS, and me crossing Mengel Pass is haphazard with no discernable rhythm. Rocks, sand, steep turns, ledges, blind corners, and loose downhills mark the return of heavy breathing and sweat. I get lazy on a blind uphill, rocky left turn and stall the F800GS. Normally this would be no problem, but being tired, and with no solid footing, I find the bike on the ground. Darn! Ron nimbly dismounts as it takes two to upright the beast. Wow! It is a lot heavier on its side!

No damage except for a twisted shift lever, and we are soon on our way to Beatty. After eight hours in the sad- dle, Ron fidgets on the uncomfortable dirt bike seat while the wide, flat seat on the F800GS is like a soft pillow. I could have made 200 more miles (on the road!). Several beers in the Motel 6, followed by an excellent fried chicken dinner at the Stagecoach Casino, makes for a fine end to a great day. Ron’s snoring and the thoughts

of another day ahead lull me to sleep.

The trail through Mengel Canyon and down into the Sculptures at Rhyolite ghost town Death Valley basin twists and turns for 25 miles of rocks and sand. Feeling my confidence buoyed by the run up and over the pass helps the F800GS to strafe this sec- tion. Feeling like Brad Lackey, I passed several light- weight dirt bikes only to have Ron blitz by me and disap- pear over the horizon. I hate perspective!

Mengel Canyon and the trail to Death Valley

Sunday morning on the way to Titus Canyon

I find Ron waiting at the trail junction that finds us deep in Death Valley. A quick left and we are on freshly graded West Side Road (WSR) for the next 35 miles. Now the shoe was on the other foot. Ron could pass me at will on the difficult sand and rock ‘Hard Way’ sections but now the smooth dirt of WSR allows the F800GS to stretch its legs. Sixth gear shows 80-90 miles per hour at only 6,000 rpm. Short bursts over 100 mph leaves Ron’s KTM choking in the dust as I disappear into the desert. This is adventure bike country! Yow! We decide to take the Titus Canyon route on Sunday in- Soon we pull into Furnace Creek for some tire kicking stead of the ‘very rocky’ Chloride City section as neither with the street bike crowd and a giant burger at the café. Ron nor I have ever been through the Titus Canyon. This The F800GS draws lots of attention from the BMW road turns out to be an excellent choice as the dirt road riders, while the Harley guys just look perplexed, think- passes through the Rhyolite ghost town and over two ing, “What the heck is that thing?” mountain passes before descending through gorgeous It is 2 p.m. when we head for Beatty, Nevada, but not Titus Canyon. The road is challenging enough for the be- before one more ‘Hard Way’ section just past Corkscrew ginning of the day, complete with loose, rocky turns; Peak. Drunken Jeepers must have laid out this road, as it sand washes; and spectacular views. Finally we reach Titus Canyon, which is very narrow with multi-colored Proverbial horse smelling the barn exiting Titus Canyon walls towering hundreds of feet above the canyon floor. The dirt road is very loose and a mistake will put you up- close-and-personal with the rock walls. Discretion re- quired. I pass several hikers who are surprised to see the bumblebee and not very happy. Ron gets the brunt of their ire.

Notes:

1. Riding a large adventure bike on hostile terrain is unlike any experience in the world of motorcycling. The power and Ron negotiating Titus Canyon speed are awesome, but the suspension and braking require constant appraisal of the situation ahead. No, you can’t ride The end of the canyon finds us back on the valley floor as fast as on your dedicated dirt bike, but there is no better for a relaxing paved section to Stovepipe Wells for gas feeling than completing a difficult section on one of these be- and drinks. Scenery, scenery, and more scenery! Leaving hemoths. Talk about challenges!

Stovepipe Wells, the route veers left on deteriorating 2. I have owned a BMW R1200GS and a KTM 990 Adventure. Wildrose Road, over Emigrant Pass, and down through I have also ridden a BMW F650GS Dakar in South America. Wildrose Canyon. This was a paved road about 30 years In my opinion, the BMW F800GS is the best, all around bike ago, but lack of maintenance has left it challenging for for dirt and street riding. Fast enough for long stretches of street machines. Ron and I accelerate down through the pavement, but nimble enough for tough off road riding. Right canyon and soon catch two motorcyclists. They are riding tool… on Suzuki GSX1300R Hayabusas, the world’s fastest 3. The F800depot.com website has lots of goodies for these street bikes and capable of nearly 190 mph. But not bikes, including the excellent Wild@Heart crashbars and VPS down Wildrose Canyon! Joyfully we blow by them, wav- Barkbuster handguards. Touratech and Wunderlich also have ing bye-bye as they plod through the broken asphalt. many accessories. That’s what I’m talkin’ about…adventure bikes rule! 4. The Dunlop 908RR front and Kenda ‘Kings Tire’ rear are a Another short Jeep road, a dusty graded road through great combo for this type of desert riding. The Kenda looks Ballarat, across a dry lakebed, and we are soon back in new after 350 miles of rocky terrain! Trona. The stop is short, and we are back in the desert 5. There are two things that I will do before another sandy on the final leg to Ridgecrest. Again the sandy two-track desert ride: has me flailing a bit as Ron boogies away. I hit my stride a. Increase the idle on the bike so it does not stall at low just as a long whoop section threatens to eject me off speeds the trail. Careful, big boy, you are almost home. Soon b. Install a steering damper. The F800GS carries the fuel un- the truck is in sight, complete with beer and sandwiches. der the seat, allowing the light front end to hunt under accel- What a way to end a great ride! eration. Not an issue on packed dirt, but high-speed sand

sections can make you pucker up. The Death Valley 350 is in the books and, aside from a dented front rim, the F800GS has passed the test with 6. Alaska…June 19-July 11, 2009. Interested? E-mail me at nary a scratch. Right tool for the right job. Off to Alaska [email protected] . in June! Hope to see you on the road or dirt soon! ~ ~ AMA D-37 Dual Sport PRSRT STD MAIL SERVICES U.S. POSTAGE P.O. BOX 1007 TIME DATED MATERIAL PAID YORBA LINDA, CA 92885 JART CHANGE SERVICE REQUESTED

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