Paper 04: Food production operation and management

Module 40: China’s Cuisine

THE DEVELOPMENT TEAM

Principal Investigator Prof. S. P. Bansal, Vice Chancellor, Indira Gandhi University, Rewari

Co-Principal Investigator Dr. Prashant K. Gautam, Director, UIHTM, Panjab University, Chandigarh

Paper Coordinator Mr. Pulkit Bhambi HOD, IHM Dehradun

Content Writer Mr. Vivek Kumar Lecturer, IHM Dehradun.

Prof. O.P. Kandhari, Content Reviewer Institute of Tourism and Hotel Management, Budelkhand, University, Jhansi

ITEMS DESCRIPTION OF MODULE Subject Name Tourism and Hospitality Paper Name Food production operation and management Module Title China’s Cuisines

Module Id 40 Pre- Requisites Basic Knowledge of Chinese food Objectives Expose students to different culinary styles/schools of china.

Keywords Different styles of .

TABLE OF CONTENTS 1. Learning Outcomes 2. Introduction 3. The Principles of Chinese Cuisine 4. Regional Cooking Styles of China 5. Cooking Techniques 6. Tools & Equipment of Chinese Cuisine 7. Summary

QUADRANT-I Introduction Chinese Cuisine The Chinese have been intrigued with the art of cooking for centuries, from the proper selection of ingredients to the use of specific methods and tools. Nearly 3000 years ago, the fascination became apparent when China’s first “recipes” were conceived. Today, it has been estimated that at least 80000 dishes have been created.

Attention to detail is an integral part of preparing a Chinese dish. The food is expected to appeal to both the eye and the palate. The colors should be aesthetically pleasing, the fragrances should arouse the senses, and the ingredients should be uniform in size. And all of these elements should be aimed toward creating balance. The approach of Chinese cuisine can be traced back to historical events as well as religious and philosophical systems that have been in place in China for centuries. The importance of cuisine in China is evident as early as the Tang dynasty with creation of both the first known cookbook and nutrition text. During the Song dynasty, China experienced a significant height in prosperity. The abundant economic and cultural growth resulted in spurring interest in cuisine. Chinese food writers, cooks, nutritionists, merchants, and wealthy consumers took part in creating a style of cooking and eating. In 1911, China became a republic when the dynastic system was overturned. Western influences flourished by the 1920s, bringing such delicacies as French-style custard tarts, ice cream, and European utensils and appliances. By the end of the 1970s, China strove to regain the culinary brilliance it had once experienced during the centuries of imperialistic regime. The depression of civil war and devastation never destroyed China’s interest in the quality of food and its preparation. With indigenous ingredients, as well as those introduced from other societies, China has enhanced its distinct cuisine. Foreign trade, war, and invasion introduced foodstuffs to the Chinese palate that were traditionally unavailable. Trade during the Tang dynasty introduced items such as eggplant, spinach, pumpkin, dill, nutmeg, saffron and peppercorns. Peaceful times experienced during the Ming and Ching dynasties influenced numerous voyages and extensive foreign trade. A variety of items were brought into China through these travels. Foreign trade brought new ingredients such as snow peas form Holland, watercress from Portugal, and tomatoes, corn, potatoes, and chiles from the New World.

The Principles of Chinese Cuisine The main distinctive feature of Chinese cuisine is the emphasis on the harmonious blending of colour, aroma, flavour, shape and texture, both in a single dish and in a course of dishes. Colour Each ingredient has its own natural colour. Certain items change their colour after cooking, so the cook should bear this in mind when selecting different ingredients for blending of colors is the dish to have contrasting or complementary colors? And what are the colors of other dishes that are being served at the same time? All these points should be taken into consideration when planning a menu. Aroma Again, each ingredient has its own aroma or fragrance some sharp, some subtle. Most fish and meat have a rather strong smell and require an agent to suppress it and to enhance its cooked aroma. The Chinese use rice wine and spirits in cooking for this purpose, other much-used seasonings are spring onions, ginger, garlic, and peppers. Flavour Flavour is closely related to aroma and colour, and the principle of blending complementary flavors is a fundamental one the different ingredients must not be mixed indiscriminately and the matching of flavors should follow a set pattern and be controlled, not casual. Some cooks lide to mix contrasting flavors and unrelated textures, others prefer the matching of similar flavors and colors. Some wish the flavour of each ingredient to be reserved, others believe in the of flavors. The blending of different flavors known as tiao-wei its itself a fine art, and in this lies the central principal of harmony. Shape The cutting of ingredients is important in achieving the proper cooking effect. Slices are matched with slices, shreds with shreds, cubes with cubes, chunks with chunks, and so on. This in not merely for the sake of appearance, which is an important element of Chinese cuisine, but also because ingredients of the same size and shape require about the same amount of time in cooking. Texture A dish may have just one, or several, contrasting textures, such as tenderness, crispness, crunchiness, smoothness and softness. The textures to be avoided are sogginess, stringiness and hardness. To achieve the correct texture in a dish – the hallmark of authentic Chinese cuisine the most important points to observe her are the

degree of heat and the duration of cooking known by the Chinese term huohou, meaning ‘heat and timing’. The desired texture (s) in any dish can only be achieved by the right cooking methods. The size and shape and shape of the cut ingredient must, first of all, be suitable for the particular method of cooking. For instance, ingredients for quick stir-frying should be cut into small, thin slices, shreds or small cubes, never large, thick chunks. You will have noticed that a Chinese dish is usually made up of more than one ingredient, this is because when a single item is cooked on its own, it lacks contrast and therefore harmony. For centuries, Chinese cooks have understood the importance of the harmonious balance in blending different flavors. The principle of blending complementary or contrasting colors, flavors and textures is based on the ancient Taoist School of Philosophy know as the yin-yang principle, which practically governs all aspects of Chinese life, and has been the guiding principle for all Chinese cooks. Consciously or unconsciously, every Chinese cook, from the housewife to the professional chef, works to the yin-yang principle, i.e. the harmonious balance and contrast in the conspicuous juxtaposition of different colors, aroma, flavors, shapes and textures, achieved by varying the ingredients, cutting techniques, seasonings and cooking methods.

Another characteristic of Chinese cuisine is the Chinese belief that all foods are also medicines – the overriding idea is that the kind of food one eats is closely relevant to one’s health. This Taoist approach classifies all foods into those that possess the yin, meaning ‘cool’, quality, and those that possess the yan, or ‘hot’ quality. When the yin- yang forces in the body are not balanced illness results. To combat this disorder, it is necessary to eat foods that will redress the balance. This belief was documented in the third century BC, at the inception of herbal medicine and the recognition of the link between nutrition and health, and it is still a dominant concept in Chinese culture today. The yin-yang principle can also be seen in the basic dualism of nature, yin is feminine, dark, cool and passive yang, in contrast, is masculine, bright, hot and active. But unlike the dualism of the Western world, in which good and evil are in perpetual conflict, yin and yang complement each other and form a harmonious pair, as symbolized by the interlocking figures within a perfect circle. Over the year, as the yin-yang principle developed along dualist lines, it was combined with a ‘five elements’ concept of the Naturalism school of thought, which held that nature is made up of varying combinations of five elements of nature, metal, wood, water, fire, and earth. The parallel to the four elements of the ancient Greeks – earth, fire, air, and water is striking.

Regional Cooking Styles of China

Chinese cuisine is characterized by four distinctive cooking styles: Northern (Beijing/ Peking style), Southern (Cantonese style), Eastern / Coastal (Shanghai style), and Western / Inland (Szechwan style) – with numerous variations of each style within each region. Situated in the eastern part of Asia, China encompasses an area larger than 3 million square miles (8 million square kilometers). With miles of mountainous terrain, the spacious territory is home to many rivers, thousands of lakes, and a long coastline on the Pacific Ocean. China is one of the largest countries in the world, with a population of more than one billion people. Only, 10 percent of China’s land is used for cultivation purposes. At times, dramatic shifts in temperature and climate wreak havoc on its generally abundant agriculture. The ever-growing population and expanding cities threaten to inhabit even more of the already inadequate space. Raising animals such as cattle and sheep is made difficult due to insufficient pastureland. Considering that China is roughly the size of the United States, it isn’t hard to imagine its diversity. Each of its regions – northern, southern, eastern (coastal), and western – have different climatic and geographical characteristics, and as with any territory, changes in inspire each region’s culinary development and preferences.

Northern China In the north, China is relatively cold and arid, with a typically dry, level terrain. The Beijing/Peking province sees frigid winter weather, leading to a growing season that is much shorter than that of other regions. Having been the site of the imperial court, the northern cuisine exemplifies creativity, ingenuity, and sophistication. The lavish and traditional three-course Peking duck, served

with spring onions and housing , is an example of the intense seasonings in a simple, delicate manner, but is also well known for its pungent, sweet-and-sour dishes. Typical crops include wheat, corn, soybeans, botchy, Napa cabbage, root vegetables, eggplants, persimmons, pomegranates, peaches, pears, apples, grapes, and jujube dates. Chestnuts, walnuts and peanuts are also grown in this area. These ingredients, along with garlic, green onions, and dark lend distinct flavor principles to the area. Wheat items such as noodles, breads, dumplings, and pancakes are common. Mongolian influences are also still apparent in the region’s dishes, specifically the use of lamb and mutton, the commonality of barbecued meat dishes, and fire pot specialties (one – dish meals reminiscent of fondue). Hot – pot meals include customer-blended condiments for each diner and platters of meat and vegetables. Diners use chopsticks to dip the food items into liquid (both, oil, etc) and then place the food into their bowls, to which they can add flavorings and / or condiments. Mongolian is similar, except the ingredients are grilled and placed in buns for eating.

Southern China The hills and low mountains of the southern region are scattered with a number of rivers, lakes, and streams. With a small portion of the land flat enough for row cropping the heavy rainfall and abundant sunshine in and around the Cantonese province welcomes a long growing season, including two rice harvests per year. The southern Cantonese style of cooking is a display of succulence with its masterly blend of different flavors. It is the most known style of Chinese cooking among westerners. Cantonese dishes use little seasonings; they are flavored in a simple manner featuring a minimal level of spiciness. The principal crops of this region are rice, sugarcane, mulberries, and freshwater fish. A variety of exotic fruits, including leeched, long an, loquats, citrus, olives, guava, bananas, papayas, pineapples, and coconuts, are also produced in this area. Vegetables such as snow peas, Chinese broccoli, taro, tiger lily, bamboo shoots, lotus roots, lotus seeds, water chestnuts, squash, pumpkins, mushrooms. And beans are grown throughout the region.

Housing, plum, oyster, and light soy are typical cooking condiments, along with garlic. Seafood is commonly used, as well as blanched vegetables, and whole suckling pigs. The Cantonese prefer quick cooking styles such as stir-frying and to highlight the natural flavor, color, and texture of the fresh ingredients. Additional cooking techniques used in the Cantonese region are barbecuing, , and simmering. Foods are oftentimes undercooked to bring out the natural flavors. Dim sum and lacquered meats are popular preparations in the area.

Eastern China The mild climate of the eastern / coastal regional results from hot, humid summers and short, moderate winters. The low flat terrain in the Shanghal province provides for productive agriculture and ample fishing. In the eastern regiona along the coast, Shanghai and its neighbor, Fukien, rely heavily on soy sauce, sugar and ginger for flavoring agents. Fukien is known for producing the most highly regarded soy sauce in China. Natural flavors are accentuated by keeping dishes light and delicate. To emphasize the fresh ingredients, eastern chefs prefer stir-frying, steaming, “red” cooking and . and curing are often used to reserve meat and vegetables. This “land of fish and rice” is abundant in freshwater and saltwater fish and seafood, specifically carp and crabs. Livestock is also commonly raised here, including chickens, ducks, pigs, and cattle. The primary food crops include rice and wheat. Barley, corn (maize), and sweet potatoes are the region’s secondary crops. Additionally, a variety of bamboo shoots, beans, melons, gourds, squashes, and leafy vegetables, as well as peaches, plums, and grapes are cultivated in eastern China.

Western China The western region of China sees very little rainfall, while the inland areas of this region experience monsoon conditions. Depending on the location, agriculture can be very productive, with a growing season lasting nearly all year. In the western parts, the landscape mainly consists of mountainous ground or enclosed desert basins. With

extremely dry conditions, little farming is achieved. Irrigation is essential to successfully make use of the land. The western/inland region of Szechwan is revered for its highly seasoned dishes. The most prominent dishes are hot and sour and are often oily, a possible influence of neighboring Indian and Pakistan. The area encompassing the Szechwan province raises a significant amount of poultry, as well as the largest number of cattle and pigs in China. Rice, corn, and sweet potatoes are produced here, along with wheat, rapeseed, sorghum, barley, soybeans, millet, sugarcane, citrus fruits, tung nuts, and tea. The area’s condiments and spices are quite strong. The Chile, for example, appears in several forms, roasted with salt and ground, fresh, in pester, and infused in oil. Onions, garlic, dried citrus peel, ginger, dried black mushrooms, and fungus, as well as sesame oil and fermented broaed beand past, contribute to the cuisine’s characteristic flavour. Beef, lamb, chicken, and fish are prepared throughout the region. Although the Szechwan cooking style makes use of all techniques, stir-frying and steaming are most popular.

Cooking Techniques Red stewing/red cooking (hung-shu) – This technique is unique to Chinese cooking. The process involves cooking the food (usually port, beef, ham, chicken, duck, or carp) in large quantities of soy sauce and water. It is similar to stewing. The soy sauce contributes to the rich taste and reddish-brown color created by using this technique. Velvetting – A process in which meat, fish, or seafood is coated with cornstarch, egg whites, rice wine, and salt. This is done to retain moisture, producing a succulent dish. The coating also allows for sauce to adhere better to the finished dish. Lacquer roasting – A technique performed in the Cantonese region. The food item, such as poultry, ribs, pieces of beef, or back bacon, receives several coats of a high-sugar mixture (honey, corn syrup, maltose, or sugar with an oil or soy sauce). After roasting, the meat has a glossy, crispy finish with a subtle sweetness.

Tools & Equipment of Chinese Cuisine Tools for Chinese cooking are fairly basic. For centuries, China’s cooks have invested a great deal of time and effort achieving certain results with minimal utensils. The principal implements are as follows:- Wok – All purpose cooking vessel developed by the Chinese. The wok has a round bottom with high, sloping sides. It is available in a variety of sizes and is made of materials such as cast iron, rolled steel, anodized aluminum, and stainless steel. Woks typically have one or two handles and are usually accompanied by a ringshaped stand and a dome lid. The wok can be used for stir-frying, , steaming, , and , its shape makes tossing ingredients easy and offers an extended cooking surface. Chopstick (phai-tzi) – These cooking and eating utensils were created in China and are widely used in Asia, specifically China, Japan, Korea, Vietnam, and Thailand. They range in sizes and materials (bamboo, ivory, plastic, or lacquered wood). Long chopsticks are used for stir-frying or deep frying. Shorter varieties of chopsticks are best suited for eating and for mixing batters, sauces, or marinades.

Cleaver (dai doh; tsoi doh) – A versatile instrument, the cleaver is used for cutting, tenderizing, and flattening. The Chinese cleaver comes in several sizes: light, used in chopping vegetables and seasonings; medium, used in cutting various ingredients; and heavy, used in cutting through tough, dense items. Cleavers are available in carbon steel and stainless steel. Bamboo Steamer (jing long) – This type of steamer efficiently absorbs steam, creating a very hot container without condensation. The food remains free of excess moisture and cooks quickly and evenly even when stacked high with many levels. The traditional Chinese bamboo steamer has two layers and a lid. Clay Pot/Sand Pot – Made from a mixture of clay and sand, this heavy pot is used for braising, stewing, and casserole cooking. It is ideal for slow cooking because it distributes heat efficiently and can withstand direct heat. It is available in a variety of shapes and sizes. Summary Chinese cuisine is an ocean of Cooking Styles and Cooking Techniques. The Tools & Equipment used are distinct and are made to cook food on high heat and tolerate high pressure .The food of China is unmatched and is served in the best way a food can be cooked and served. Every part of China is unique in flavors and delicacies which form the backbone of this huge nation. So in this module we have learnt about its demography, its cooking styles and the skilled technique which one should posses before he relishes the flavor of this country.