Discovery A 46’ Grand Banks Classic Operating Manual
Edition of February 4, 2020 • Copyrighted. See notice next page.
Section Contents 1 Introduction & General Boat Description 2 Specifications, Capacities & Important Numbers 3 Operating Checklists & Maneuvering Suggestions 4 Specific Discussion of Boat Systems 5 “What to Do” for Some Specific Concerns 6 EMERGENCY PROCEDURES 7 Index
NW Explorations DISCOVERY OPERATING MANUAL | 1 Author’s Note
Over the winter of 2006-2007 the owner of Discovery made major improvements in electronics, replacing or adding the Radar, GPS, Plotter, Weather Station, Hailer, and CB Radio; a Spectra Watermaker was also added. These new units are illustrated in the sections of the manual specifically discussing them, however some of the wide-angle pictures of the boat show the old units. Thank you for your understanding!
Copyright 1998, 1999, 2006, 2007 Joseph D. Coons. This manual was written for this boat’s owner and NW Explorations of Bellingham Washington U.S.A. by Joseph D. Coons, 25 Shorewood Drive, Bellingham, WA 98225, telephone (360) 647-0288. All rights reserved. This manual may not be quoted, copied, or duplicated, in whole or in part, in printed or electronic form, without express written consent from the author.
2 | DISCOVERY OPERATING MANUAL NW Explorations Section I: Introduction & General Boat Description About This Manual Manual Objective and Limitations This manual is intended to introduce you to “Discovery”, its systems and features, allowing you to operate it with the confidence and self-assurance necessary to enjoy your cruising vacation to its fullest. It is not intended to replace a basic understanding of seamanship, including navigation skills, weather interpretation or boat handling. You are expected to have an understanding of these subjects obtained through other sources, including training, seminars, reading and perhaps most important, experience.
There is no way that a small manual like this one can answer every question or give you a solution to every circumstance, foreseen or unforeseen. If you have a question which limits your understanding or handling of this vessel, ask your NWE checkout skipper or contact the office for details (you might make a list of questions as you read the manual, saving them all up to ask at one time). How the Manual is Organized The tab for each section defines its general purpose as shown on the front page.
You will use Section 3, containing checklists, most of all. You should have it available so that each checklist can be used on a daily basis, even after you are familiar with the boat.
Section 6, regarding Emergency Procedures, is the most important, and you should read it, but hopefully you will never need it.
Read this section first to learn about this manual and the general details of your boat. The other sections will tell you most of what you need to know to enjoy your cruise to the fullest with safety and confidence.
NW Explorations DISCOVERY OPERATING MANUAL | 3 General Description of This Grand Banks 46’ Classic Exterior The Grand Banks 46’ Classic is a traditional yacht design, with fiberglass hull, cabin, and flybridge structures, a teak swim grid/step, teak decks, rails, and gunwhale caps, and stainless steel welded fittings and handrails. The window frames are of painted wood with sliding glass panes, while the windshield frame is of the same material.
Of particular note are the easy walk-around decks, enabling safe, secure passage about the boat by passengers and crew. A roomy cockpit section with a storage lazarette beneath is especially useful for fishing and for handling the dinghy after it is launched from its davit on the stern.
On the side decks are the two fuel fills, one port-side and the other starboard. A holding tank pump-out deck fitting is located on the port side aft. The water tank fills are on the port side, in the side and foredecks.
The roomy walk-around helps A view of the cockpit. Aft shore power keep you safe and secure. connection by door; shower foreground.
4 | DISCOVERY OPERATING MANUAL NW Explorations Forward on the bow deck is the anchor windlass with foot switches allowing chain movement both “up” and “down” electrically. The anchor is retracted into the bow pulpit which hangs out over the bow to give better chain clearance from the hull than otherwise possible; this pulpit is strong and braced, easily supporting not only the anchor during hauling but also an attending crew member if necessary. After passing over the winch, the chain goes below decks via a hawse pipe in the foredeck.
There are shore power connections (with an adjacent fuse holder) at both the bow and stern, selected by the shore power switch in the electric panel; when this cable is to be disconnected, the switch Bow pulpit, windlass, & shore power connection. should first be turned to the “off” position to avoid arcing which could damage the plug contacts. The boat’s 30-amp shore power cable is 50 feet long and stays with the boat when away from its home dock. An additional 30-amp cable is located in the starboard bow locker.
Three steps above the aft side decks is the “boat deck”. Here you will find the permanently mounted barbeque with its own fixed propane tank, as well as a professional electric davit to which is attached a hard- bottom inflatable dinghy with a Honda outboard motor.
In this view you can see the mast with radar The barbecue and its tank (here in their and spreader lights and forward, the Bimini. canvas covers) are on the boat deck handy to both the main deck and the flybridge.
The L-settee on the flybridge will be The flybridge has comfortable tandem The Deck Crane & dinghy on its davits a focus for your evening relaxation seats with storage beneath plus on the boat deck. (The outboard after cruising. a full helm station. was off the boat)
Up three steps from the boat deck is the flybridge, with seating for crew and passengers, and the upper helm station. In addition to the helm’s instruments and controls, the console has storage for the ship’s canvas covers and a space for flybridge electronics. Within the storage compartments beneath the seats you will find a complement of life jackets (on the starboard side) and the propane tank for the ship’s stove (to port).
The electronics panel in the flybridge. NW Explorations DISCOVERY OPERATING MANUAL | 5 Interior Accommodations
The boat is entered by either side door, port or starboard. These doors are fitted with strong deadbolt locks, and in addition have stainless catches affixed to the cabin sides to hold them open; these “hold-open catches” should be engaged manually, not just by “slamming the doors open” to avoid damage to the catches by bending, or the doors by banging. The doors should be closed when underway except at very low speeds in calm waters to avoid getting salt water inside the doorways. The starboard and port door steps have storage beneath for shore power cord adapters, flashlights, fire extinguishers, etc.
Looking forward to the helm, helm seat Moving aft from the bar is the L-settee To port is the entertainment center with with drawers, and dry bar with icemaker. with the table in front and cabinets below. sidechairs and a book/magazine rack.
Just forward of the starboard door is a professional-quality helm station with electric switch panels adjacent and electronics panel above; on the helm itself are the ship’s radar, and GPS/plotter. In the helm cabinet is storage for manuals, tide tables, navigation tools, charts, etc.
Aft of the starboard door is the custom helm seat with three drawers and a cushioned top. Just aft of this is a dry bar with an icemaker below. Aft of the icemaker cabinet is fitted an L-settee to starboard. Under this settee’s forward end are stored the boat’s engine spares; in the next cabinet aft under the settee is the vacuum cleaner. The settee aft-end drawer has emergency gear (see following sections). A table in front of the settee is used for dining/cocktails.
6 | DISCOVERY OPERATING MANUAL NW Explorations The table has storage inside it for games, cards, and other miscellaneous items, and below it for bottles and magazines.
To port in the salon is more seating, with two side chairs by the entertainment center which has a TV/ DVD and stereo system. The ship’s manuals are in the aft cabin. Forward by the port doorway are swivel bar chairs. In this galley picture you see the microwave,the sink, glass rack, and un- Down from the salon to port is the der the hatch to right, the built-in U-shaped galley. It has a propane deep freeze and dish racks. stove/oven in the counter; a large stainless sink on the aft counter; deepfreeze (right of sink) and a microwave. There is extensive storage. A storage hold is in the galley floor. The rest of the galley itself: The stove, The stove burners have a push- button cabinets, and the double-door fridge. “igniters”; the oven re- quires manual pilot-lighting (a “propane match” galley).
The forward stateroom includes a V-berth with insert, a hanging lock- The forward stateroom berth. er, and drawers/ cabinets for crew clothing. A large overhead hatch and side opening portlights provide plenty of light. Moving aft from the stateroom to starboard is a locker housing the ship’s washer/dryer; then the forward head This gives you an idea of the fine compartment with its own stall shower cabinetry and copious storage and Master Flush head and basin with throughout the boat. vanity. Both the stateroom and head have floor storage holds.
The aft (master) stateroom is down a few steps from the port end of the salon. Forward to port in this stateroom is a head compartment with toilet, sink/van- The fwd S/R hanging locker. ity, and numerous cabinets and drawers; to starboard opposite in the cabin is the stall shower. Between these two com- partments are a huge hanging locker for clothing and the salon passageway. There The Master Stateroom aft has a walk is a queen-sized island berth, beneath around queen berth with which are drawers including a spacious tables on each side. chart drawer. To each side of the berth are counters with cabinets beneath, as well as storage lining the vessel’s exterior walls on each side. A dresser is aft to port beneath the emergency exit hatch. The washer & dryer
NW Explorations DISCOVERY OPERATING MANUAL | 7 Engine Room Preferred access to the engine room is through the floor hatch by the entertainment center in the salon. Engine room lighting is turned on by a breaker in the ship’s DC power panel.
The engines are to each side, while forward of the engines are their sea strainer/seacocks, the sea strainer for the refrigeration system, filters for the Over the middle of the port engine is the watermaker. On the forward bulkhead The Inverter above the inverter switch, the water pump far port, fresh water water heater. of the room are wiring terminals and strainer, refrigerator compressor, and the ship’s inverter. Outboard of the infront of that the furnace Everhot. engines to starboard are the ship’s furnace, watermaker, and two batteries; to port are the fresh water pressure pump and accumulator tank, the water heater, refrigeration compressors, and two more battery boxes.
Just aft of the engines outboard are the two fuel tanks, with sight gauges for fuel levels (the valves at each end of the gauge for safety must be opened for a tank reading). Aft of the engines midships is the Northern Lights Looking over the top of the starboard In the center aft engine room you generator in its sound shield; and to engine aft of the wiring panel: we see see the white genset box; the fuel each side of it are the main engine the heater system and its various manifold with its valves, and the fuel hoses. Note the exhaust going out the Racor primary fuel filters. To starboard filters for each engine. The genset starboard side: battery is outboard of the port engine. of the genset are the oil change pump we talk about this under “Furnace” and a set of controls for the genset. To later in this manual. port of the genset is its sea strainer and Racor, and the genset muffler. The engine shafts lead from the transmission couplings through the hull via virtually maintenance-free shaft logs/packing glands. Just forward of the genset midships is a fuel manifold panel (which requires no operation under normal circumstances) and beneath the genset is one of the ship’s two water tanks; the other is forward. Looking aft of the starboard engine there is the starboard fuel tank with its sight gauge; a set of generator controls, and the sound shield around the generator.
To the Starboard side you have the battery switches, watermaker filters, back up battery charger, aft of the water maker are the batteries.
8 | DISCOVERY OPERATING MANUAL NW Explorations In the engine room is a supply of extra lube oil, battery water, spare parts, oil pads, etc.
The port engine. Note the coolant tank Look just aft of the fuel filter: See An engine sea strainer. See the long on the forward upper end; the yellow the loop forming the dipstick handle? yellow handle on the right? The “T-knob” “can” is the secondary fuel filter. You can also seethe coolant cap clearly referred tolater in this manual is hidden The white knob on the front end atop the tank. The black “bump” on the opposite side of the strainer. is the fuel priming pump. just left of the coolant tank is the emergency stop button. Dinghy The boat is equipped with a 10’ AB RIB-inflatable dinghy with 15hp Honda 4-stroke outboard motor, fuel tank, pump and oars. Deck Equipment The boat has mooring lines; a stern/shore line at least 200’ long; an appropriate Ultra 60 anchor with at least 550’ of all- chain rode plus an emergency anchor with chain and rope rode; fenders/bumpers; four deck chairs; an ice chest; a crab pot or ring with line, float, and bait rigging; a hose for fresh water tank filling and boat washing; and a boat hook. Safety Equipment This vessel is equipped with three fire extinguishers, one each in the forward stateroom and aft stateroom and another in the port interior side door step; a ship’s bell; flares; an appropriate supply of life jackets; and VHF radio. Charter clients with children under 90 pounds should bring appropriate life jackets for them.
On the aft side of the aft flybridge rail is the lifering, easi- ly accessed from either the flybridge or the boat deck.
NW Explorations DISCOVERY OPERATING MANUAL | 9 Section II - Specifications, Capacities, & Important Numbers
Vessel Name: DISCOVERY Vessel Official Number: 1048488 Vessel Registration Number: WN7999RF FCC Ships License Call Letters WDD 7445 Hull ID Number GNDF0169E595 Capacities: Sleeps four: Two in each stateroom Fuel: 700 Gallons in two 350 gallon tanks Fresh water: 290 Gallons in two tanks Holding Tank: 30 Gallons Dimensions: Length: 47 feet 1 Inch (Including bowsprit and swim step) Beam: 14 Feet 9 Inches Draft: 4 Feet 5 inches Displacement: 39,000 Pounds Fluids: Motor Fuel: #2 Diesel Motor Oil, mains: 15W-40 Chevron Delo Multigrade Transmission Oil: 30W Chevron Delo Single Grade Engine Coolant: 50-50 mix, ethylene glycol and water; corrosion inhibitor added Operating Parameters: 1700 RPM 8.5 knots 8.0 GPH (all estimated) 2000 RPM 11.8 knots 14.0 GPH 2400 RPM 15 knots 24.0 GPH
10 | DISCOVERY OPERATING MANUAL NW Explorations Section III: Checklists & Maneuvering Suggestions Operating Checklists: Discovery First Thing Each Day: • Check engine oil, coolant. • Check under-engine oil pads. Okay? • Check fuel tank levels (open valves on top/bottom of sight gauges to check them!) • Check holding tank indicator in aft head. Need pumping? • Turn off anchor light if illuminated. Starting Engines: • All lines clear of propellers and on deck. • Items running on AC evaluated vis-a-vis the Inverter and Generator. • Battery selector switch to “House”. DC panel battery selector switch to “Normal” • Throttles retarded to idle, shift levers in “neutral”. • Stop solenoid switch “On”. • Engine power switches “On”, start engines in turn. • If engines do not turn over, see “What to Do If”. Leaving Dock: (Only 3-4 minute engine warmup required!) • Shore power switch “Off”. • Shore power cord removed, stowed on board. • Step stool aboard, if used. • Lines removed as appropriate. • Fenders hauled aboard and stowed. • Lines and other deck gear secure/stowed. • Doors and hatches closed and secured as appropriate. Underway: • Helmsperson on watch at all times. • RPM under 1400 until engines warm to 140°; RPM never to exceed 2400 RPM. • Wake effects always in mind. • Synchronizer “On”. Approaching Dock: • Fenders out on appropriate side. • Bow line OUTSIDE stanchions and bloused around toward midships. • Engines dead slow, wheel centered for engine-only maneuvering. • Mate ready to secure stern first (in most circumstances). • Synchronizer “Off”. • Trim Tabs Up (“Bow Up”) Arriving at Dock in Marina: • Trim Tabs Up (“Bow Up”) • Lines secure, including spring lines. • Step stool out, if needed. • Battery switch to “House” position. • Water heater breaker off until Inverter current settles (see “Inverters” Page 27). • Shore power connected, shore power switch “On” to appropriate power location. • Shore power confirmed on meters, Inverter “On”. • Electric use monitored for current capacity of shore facilities.
NW Explorations DISCOVERY OPERATING MANUAL | 11 Arriving at Mooring Buoy: • Trim Tabs Up (“Bow Up”), Scynshronizer “OFF” • Skipper puts starboard end of swim step, with mate on it, next to buoy. • Mate loops 20’ or so line, such as bow line, through buoy ring. • Mate holds two ends together, walks up side of boat to bow of boat. • With buoy held close to bow, line secured to each bow cleat through hawsepipe. • Generator running if required. Mooring at Anchor: • Anchor is lowered from pulpit. After the anchor is on the bottom, the boat is backed up slowly away from anchor. • When desired chain length out (4:1 or 5:1 scope), windlass is stopped. • Engines reversed for “count of five” until chain pulls up virtually straight. Note: The boat is not held in reverse against a taught anchor chain! Generator Starting/Stopping: • Hold “Preheat” switch for 15 seconds, thenboth “Preheat” and “Start” until starts. • Check port side exhaust for water flow. • After one minute for warmup, turn power selector from “Off” to “Gen”. • Stopping: Turn power selector from “Gen” to “Off”, wait one minute for cool-down. • Hold “Stop” switch until stopped. Overnight Checklist in Marina: • Shore power “On”. Overnight at Anchor or Buoy: • Anchor light “On”. • DC electrical items all “Off” including radios, extra lights, etc. Upon Arising: • Start generator for battery charging. • Turn on heat if necessary. • Go to top of this Discovery checklist.
12 | DISCOVERY OPERATING MANUAL NW Explorations Maneuvering & Operating Suggestions Docking & Undocking Usually it’s easier to dock bow in. Have your mate at the side rail opening, ready to step off and secure the stern line, against which you can pull to swing the bow in toward the dock. By having your mate ready to disembark when close to the dock, he/she will not have to jump to the dock, risking a turned ankle or falling overboard. It is the skipper’s job to put the boat next to the dock so the mate needn’t jump, but merely step off!
Approaching a dock, have fenders out as required and have the bow line already rigged, passed through its hawse pipe, and draped back on the side of the boat between the stanchions so it can be reached from the dock. Never put a line from a cleat over a rail: the boat’s weight will bend or break the rail if it pulls against the line! When the mate’s ashore, the line can be easily reached!
If dock clearance permits, spring the boat forward so that it pulls forward on the stern line. This will bring the stern close to the dock. Let the bow line out enough so that the boat can rest against the stern and midships fenders. Maneuvering in a Harbor With its twin screws, you’ll do best if you center the rudder and steer with the engines only! The props are so large that the boat will respond well except in high winds just with use of the propellers in forward and/or reverse. Take your time, and keep the boat running “dead slow” so that you can plan each approach. You shouldn’t need to use the throttles at all. Using the Synchronizer The Glendinning Synchronizer exactly, automatically synchronizes the engines. To engage it:
1. Set the engines to the approximate cruise settings; 2. Pull the switch out on the engine alarm panel (the pilot light will go on); 3. Push the “Slave” control all the way forward (This will save stress on the synchronizer as it adjusts the slave engine’s speed). You now control the speed of both engines with the “Lead” engine. To disengage the synchronizer: 1. Pull back “slave” lever until you feel resistance; ensure upper and lower helm stations disengage synchronizer. 2. Push in the switch. The engine throttles are now once again independent.
Note: The synchronizer will automatically disengage if an engine cannot be synchronized. For this reason, it cannot reliably be used if both engines are throttled back to idle.
The same procedure is done at the flybridge helm. Be sure it is off whenever changing stations.
NW Explorations DISCOVERY OPERATING MANUAL | 13 Filling the Fuel Tanks With the large fuel tanks, you can fuel the boat pretty fast using a standard hose and nozzle (like those on auto gas pumps). Fuel each tank, taking the hose around the fore-or-aft deck to get to the outside fill pipe (do not drag the hose over the decks or stainless handrails, have someone help you handle it). Fill both the tanks completely but do not spill fuel! Control the flow rate by sound, as the fill pipes make the characteristic “getting to the top of the bottle” pitch change when the fill pipes begin to fill after the tanks themselves are full. (The tank vents will gurgle before the tanks are full, so when the vents begin gurgling, slow down until you hear the fill pipes’ pitch change.) Port and Starboard fuel sight tube, fill between the black tape and the top of the sight tube, make sure the top and the bottom gate valves are open while fueling or checking the fuel level and closed again any other time.
14 | DISCOVERY OPERATING MANUAL NW Explorations Anchoring Anchoring can be accomplished safely with minimum fuss if you are prepared. Or, if you are not ready, it can be stressful and dangerous for you or the boat.
Before attempting to anchor, select an anchorage with a soft bottom such as sand, mud, or gravel, if possible. Look at the charts and cruising guides for tips on good locations. Then, choose the spot in the anchorage where you have room to “swing” on the anchor without disturbing other boats. Remember, responsibility for leaving room goes to each successive boat to arrive, for the first boat has priority in the anchorage!
Here in the Northwest, because of the deep waters, all-chain rodes and small bays, we anchor a little differently than in the Gulf of Mexico or Caribbean, for example. First, except in severe weather we use anchor chain scopes of only 4-to-1 or 5-to-1. For example, in water that is 40 feet at low tide in the typical anchorage, we might use 160 feet of chain unless the weather was to be gale force or greater winds.
Second, because of the small bays and steep bottoms, we often rig a shore line from the stern of the boat to shore. The best example of this would be at Todd Inlet at Butchart Gardens. Here is a bay that can accommodate 8 - 10 boats, yet it is only about 150’ wide and 200’ long! Boats attach their bows to the mooring buoys or, in a few cases, anchor; and then their sterns are secured to rings provided in the steep cliffs overlooking the bay. Boats are thus perhaps only 15-20’ apart, side to side.
Third, boats often will “raft” side by side in busy marinas, although this is not very common.
Fourth, courteous boaters will call vessels coming into busy bays and offer to let them raft to the same buoy, if signs on the buoys do not limit usage to only one boat depending upon length.
Anchoring safely requires two persons, one at the helm maneuvering the boat and one on the bow operating the anchor. Putting the bow of the boat over the spot where the anchor is to be placed after checking the depth on the depth sounder, the windlass foot-switches are used to lower the anchor slowly toward (but not onto) the bottom, by watching the chain markings.
The anchor chain on Discovery is 550 feet, with distances from the anchor marked as follows:
50’ Yellow 350’ Yellow 100’ Red 400’ Red 150’ Yellow 450’ Yellow
200’ Red 500’ Red 250’ Yellow 550’ Yellow 300’ Red
When the anchor is about to reach bottom, the boat is backed away by putting the engines into reverse for 5 seconds: eddies from the chain indicate motion. Resume lowering the anchor while drifting backwards (watch the eddies and add another burst or reverse if necessary!) until the desired amount of chain is out. Stop paying out chain. Engage reverse for five seconds at a time until the chain starts to pull straight off the bow toward the anchor. A straight chain indicates a “set” anchor!
NEVER pull on the chain for more than five seconds, and never at any engine RPM other than idle! Putting the boat’s weight plus its horsepower on the chain forcefully even at idle will bend the anchor and/or damage the mooring gear!
If while checking the set, the chain rumbles and clunks, and seems to release in bursts, it means you’re anchoring on a rocky bottom and the anchor is not holding. Be patient: it may not set on the first try, and you’ll have to repeat the process sometimes to get a good “bight” on the bottom.
NW Explorations DISCOVERY OPERATING MANUAL | 15 Shore Lines When a shore line is required, anchors are set 75 - 100 feet from shore, with the boat backing toward shore during anchor-setting. The stern line is put around a tree, and brought back to the boat.
During this process, be sure to keep clear of rocks near the shore, and allow for our Northwest tides, occasionally twelve feet, and sometimes 20 feet when further north! Check the present tide, and high and low tides before beginning anchoring: No sense anchoring in 15 feet of water if you’re at the “top” of a 15 foot tide!
To get to the shore, you will need to have a dinghy down, and then have your mate keep the boat’s stern toward shore with short bursts of reverse gear. Sometimes a helpful boater already anchored will help you by taking your line to shore for you with his dinghy, a neat “good deed” that you might reciprocate. We’ve met some nice boaters this way!
The shore line is in the lazarette, and is long enough to usually allow taking it to a tree, around it, and back to the boat so you don’t have to go ashore to untie when leaving. With a crew member keeping the boat in position, take the dinghy to shore pulling the end of the shore line with you. Pass it around a tree, and pull it back to the boat if you can, since then to get away in the morning all you have to do is release the bitter end from the boat, and pull it aboard. Pull the line tight, as long as you’ve got over 100’ total of line out: there is plenty of sag/stretch, and we want to keep the boat in its area! If necessary, put a crab pot float or fender on the line to warn others it’s there!
Here is a sketch of a properly anchored boat with a shore line (In this drawing, S=Scope, which should be at least 4 x DL, the Depth at Low Tide): Trim Tabs The boat is fitted with a set of Bennett Trim Tabs. These are wide “flaps” attached to the aft end of the boat, under the swim step at the trailing edge of the hull, operated hydraulically under the control of the skipper by rocker switches at each helm station.
At low speeds, up to approximately eight or nine knots, the tabs do little, and should be left in the “Bow Up” position (see below). But at speeds over this range, the tabs begin to take effect and will help the operator lower the bow for more efficient cruising.
The best way to adjust the tabs is to lower them while watching the “Speed” indicator to get the highest speed at a given throttle setting by adjusting “Bow Down”. If the tabs are “Bow Down” too much, the steering will get mushy and speed may drop off a little, and the tabs should be adjusted “Bow Up” a little. Note that it will take time to make these adjustments; when the buttons are depressed, they need to be held 2-5 seconds each time for change to be felt and observed (the best way to see the effect of the tabs is by the knot meter and by observing the height of the bow relative to the horizon).
Because the trim tabs are so large, they must be in the fully-bow-up position whenever the boat is to be operated in reverse, otherwise the great water forces against the tabs may damage them severely, even tearing them off the hull!
16 | DISCOVERY OPERATING MANUAL NW Explorations Section IV: Specific Discussion of Boat Systems This section of the operating manual will discuss each of the boat’s systems in turn. The systems and major components discussed are grouped and in order as follows:
• Main Engines & Sea Strainers • Dinghy, Davit & Outboard Motor • Fresh Water System • Electrical-AC • Electrical-DC • Generator and Inverter • Heads and Holding Tanks • Heating System • Galley Equipment • Navigation Equipment • Radios • Radar
Main Engines & Sea Strainers The main engines on the boat are two Caterpillar 3208TA Diesels, each producing a maximum of 375 horsepower. These extraordinarily-reliable, rugged machines are the top-of- the-line, and can be expected to give you trouble-free, economical cruising.
On engine start, no long warm-up is required! Three or four minutes is sufficient, then load the engines by putting the transmissions in gear. Do not run them over 1400 RPM until the temperature gauges read at least 140° Fahrenheit. Do not run the engines for long periods with the transmissions in neutral, with no load!
The engines require a regular, daily check, since once underway, you will probably not check them while in use, tucked away as the are beneath the cabin floor. Please perform this check each morning (when the engine room is cool!):
• CHECK THE OIL. The oil level should be between the two marks on the dipstick. The dipsticks are located on inboard side of each engine, toward the forward end of the engine itself, and the stick “pulls out” upward. Use a paper towel from the roll on the forward bulkhead, wipe the stick, reinsert, guiding the stick with the towel to keep from bending it, and take reading.
The distance between the two marks is about 1.5 quarts. Add only enough oil to bring it up above the “add” mark, say a quart, using the oil provided on the boat. (If you need more oil, buy it! We will reimburse you.) The oil fill on each engine is a T-handled stopper cap in the top of one valve cover on each engine. Loosen the T handle by turning it one or two turns and remove. After reinserting, be sure to tighten the cap, but do not over- tighten.
• DO NOT OVERFILL the crankcase (above the “full” mark), as these engines will quickly waste excessive lubricant. If oil is required often, check under the engine carefully to be sure there is no oil leak, and if there is, have it corrected promptly.
• CHECK THE COOLANT LEVEL. The heat exchanger coolant tanks are located on the forward end of each engine, with caps on the top. To check, visually examine the expansion tank on each engine and add to this tank as necessary.
If coolant is needed, determine if there is any sign of a coolant leak under the engine, and if there is, do not run the engine; if no leak, add coolant to the tank from the jug of pre-mixed antifreeze/corrosion inhibitor/water supplied on the boat.
NW Explorations DISCOVERY OPERATING MANUAL | 17 • VISUALLY INSPECT THE ROOM whenever you’re in the engine room, asking yourself, “Does everything look right?”. Look at the pads under the engines and transmissions: while some drips are normal, there shouldn’t ever be substantial accumulations of any fluids!
• CHECK THE SEA STRAINERS ONCE A WEEK, or immediately if either engine runs “hot”. The engine strainers are in the forward end of the engine room bilge. The refrigeration sea strainer is just forward of them. The generator sea strainer is between the engines. To check a strainer, shine a flashlight through it. While some “fuzziness” from trapped thin growth is normal, you should see the light clearly on the other side; if obscured, you should clean the strainer. See below.
• CHECK THE TRANSMISSION OIL LEVEL once every two weeks, more often if a transmission shifts erratically, with the dipstick on the inboard side of each transmission. It is unlikely that any oil will need to be added. Be sure to check under the transmission for leaks! Low transmission oil is a serious matter.
With the engine idling, remove the transmission dipstick. Wipe it with a towel, reinsert it, and take a reading. If the level is below the add mark, stop the engine, add a pint of the same oil used for the engine crankcases through the plug in the top of the transmission case, and then start the engine and measure again. Do not over- fill, for to do so could cause the seals to “blow out”.
These CAT engines are red-lined at 2800 RPM. Maximum cruise is 2400 RPM. However, the realities of vessel hull design and powerplant engineering dictate that higher RPM operation is very inefficient on semi-displacement vessels like this one, so you will find these operating specifications to be true (gallons per hour, speeds, and nautical miles/gallon are estimates):
Gallons per hour, Nautical Miles RPM Speed, Knots* Total both Engines* per Gallon* 1400 5.0 8.00 1.6 1600 7.0 9.00 1.29 2000 14.0 11.8 .84 2400 24.0 15.0 .625
As you can see, each extra knot is very expensive once you have passed “displacement speed” on the vessel hull; this is not a “planing” boat! It is sensible to operate the boat in the 1600-1800 RPM range, and you’ll enjoy quieter, more pleas- ant cruising and economy, too! Sea Strainer Cleaning and Seacocks The engine, generator and refrigeration cooling systems from water-borne debris which might block internal equipment passages. If a sea strainer needs cleaning (see above regarding inspection) here is the procedure:
1. Look at the base of the strainer near the hull. On one side is a valve lever with a relatively long handle; on the other side is a “T”-shaped knob. Loosen the T-knob two turns. The valve itself may begin to “weep” sea water, do not be alarmed. 2. Turn the longer valve lever so it is perpendicular to the sea strainer (parallel to the hull). 3. Tighten the T-handle; the weeping will stop. 4. Using the same spanner you use for the fuel and water tank deck caps, unscrew the top of the sea strainer. Then remove the strainer by pulling it out the top of the assembly. Rinse the strainer thoroughly and, if necessary, remove any debris from the glass housing. 5. Reinsert the strainer, tighten the top cover with the spanner, AND TURN THE VALVE BACK ON — failure to do so will overheat the engine. BE SURE TO TIGHTEN THE T-KNOB ON THE VALVE SO IT IS SECURE.
This entire operation will take 5-10 minutes at most, and will assure you of cool engines.
18 | DISCOVERY OPERATING MANUAL NW Explorations Alarm Warning and Windshield Wiper Control Panel The alarm lights will warn you if the alarm is caused by high temperature or low oil pressure; a pilot light is also here to remind you if you left the engine room lights “on”.
Above the helm is the windshield wiper and engine alarm panel. The three wiper switches control the individual wipers: push to wash the windows, turn to engage wipers in steady or intermittent modes.
On the flybridge alarm panel, there are no wiper controls but there are remote engine start and The alarm panel has warning lights for stop buttons, as well as a horn button and remote the temperature and oil pressure alarms, windlass control. and for the engine room lights; the An alarm panel is at the synchronizer switch and pilot light, and flybridge also; it has start the three wiper/washer controls. and stop buttons for each Dinghy, Davit & Outboard Motor engine, an anchor windlass remote control, but no wiper Dinghy switches. The Dinghy aboard this boat is a hard bottom inflatable by AB Inflatables, with a helm station and 15 hp electric start and tilt Honda outboard. The dinghy is designed to carry up to 5 adults and 1 child plus luggage not to exceed 1100lb. For safety, and compliance with U.S. rules, there needs to be a life jacket aboard the dinghy for each passenger aboard whenever the dinghy is in use.
Please be careful when pulling the dinghy ashore on beaches to minimize damage and scratches to the bottom. It can be lifted by two persons if one is on each side. Don’t “Ram” the beach; you can bump up to the beach gently and step ashore over the bow, pulling the dinghy a little more ashore as each person off-loads. Don’t forget to raise the outboard when the boat is beached!
The dinghy will seldom require inflation as long as the valve seals are maintained and it is not punctured. Should inflation be required, simply pump up the dinghy until it is pretty hard (thumb can deflect a tube by about ½» maximum) using the pump provided on the boat.
Should the dinghy be punctured and you feel competent to make the repair, follow the instructions in the dinghy manual and use the dinghy repair kit also on the boat; otherwise, have it professionally patched at NW Explorations or a dealer.
Dinghy Davit This boat has a high-quality electric davit supporting the dinghy. To use it,
1. Davit control is hard wired to davit. 2. Remove the dinghy’s canvas cover, if installed. 3. Raise the dinghy, swing it to starboard, and launch it;. 4. Swing the davit hook back to the boat, secure it, and tension it on the davit, avoiding damage to the yacht if the boat rolls.
To retrieve the dinghy on the boat, reverse the above procedure. If the dinghy davit circuit breaker trips, it is accessed at this box in on the starboard side under the Racor filters aft of the main engine.
NW Explorations DISCOVERY OPERATING MANUAL | 19 Outboard Motor The outboard motor for this boat is a Honda 15hp 4-Stroke. This outboard is a 4-stroke motor and oil should not be mixed with the fuel.
Check the oil on the starboard side of the Fill oil if needed at the yellow cap aft engine midway beneath the carburetor. starboard side.
20 | DISCOVERY OPERATING MANUAL NW Explorations Fresh Water System Tanks There are two water tanks, one located midships, one in the engine room under the genset and another forward under the galley sole. These are filled by side deck fill pipes on the port side midships and port side forward with a cap on each marked “WATER”. You need to fill the tanks individually. The tanks are monitored by a digital water gauge located on the brow above the breakfast bar. When the tanks have been filled reset the monitor by pressing the red button. Be extra careful not to mix up the water and diesel fills.
Water Pump
The water line from the tanks leads to the boat’s fresh water pump in the engine room, port side forward. Provided its circuit breaker is “On”, this pump will run whenever its built-in pressure switch detects low water pressure.
Water heater After the water pump, water is distributed directly to the cold water faucet lines. In addition, it goes to the boat’s water heater. This heater uses two energy sources, (1) heat from the port engine, so that whenever the boat is running or has recently run, there is hot water; and (2) 110 volts AC from shore power or the genset, if available and the breaker is “on”. The heater is insulated well enough to keep hot water overnight without power, provided you haven’t wasted a lot in dishwashing!
Waste Water Waste water from the sinks and showers (but not from the toilets) is dumped overboard in accordance with U.S. and Canadian law. From sink basins, the water simply flows by gravity overboard. Since the floor of the showers is below the water line, built in shower sump pumps operate to lift this water back above the waterline and dump it overboard.
It is therefore very important that the “drain pump” breaker in the DC panel be left “On” , and that the switch in each shower compartment labeled “drain pump” also be “on” (pulled out) during a shower.
After the shower is complete, turn the “Drain Pump” switch in the shower compartment “Off” by pushing it in. This rou- tine is followed in case each pump’s own float switch fails or sticks, causing the pump to run continuously, overheating it and running down the ship’s batteries.
Watermaker
The boat carries a Spectra Watermaker. This great system (which requires AC power to operate) has the following fea- tures:
• It automatically flushes itself on a regular basis to keep the filtration membranes clean and in service; • It has automatic controls that run it for specific periods so that you need not worry about overfilling tanks and wasting water; • It assures you that there will always be plenty of water, however it will take several hours to top off the tank under normal use. • Note that you can use city water without filling the tanks (which you should not do: see below). Simply connect the hose to the pressure water inlet fitting outside the cockpit swim door and leave the hose “on” as long as you are at the dock; this will then go directly to the boat’s faucets as needed, but not into the tanks.
NW Explorations DISCOVERY OPERATING MANUAL | 21 Operation is entirely automatic. Simply push the button to add water to the tanks, following these provisos: • Do not run the watermaker while in the harbor: You will shorten the time that the filters can be in service. • Leave the watermaker on at all times so it can monitor its own operations. • Always leave the fresh water pump breaker on so that the purge system can operate properly!
DC Electrical System Concepts Each year it seems more folks are confused by the operation of electrical systems on yachts than by any other subject! Don’t feel discouraged if something isn’t clear: you’ve got company in your confusion. So let’s try to cover some theory here first.
Most of the equipment on any boat is run by 12 volt DC electricity from the boat’s batteries. This is true because DC should always be available: we have batteries aboard even when there is no shore power! If the batteries aren’t run down, everything should work, just like in the family car.
Since the batteries are used so much, we have to replenish, or charge them. The most important way we do this is by alternators on the ship’s engine(s). In most cases one engine will provide enough electricity to run everything, and still have some energy left over to add back to the battery, that is, to charge it.
Ah, but what if the engine(s) isn’t running? Then, the batteries are slowly depleted until they have “run down” and there is no more electricity stored in them . . . a big problem, because then we not only can’t run all the neat stuff on the boat, we can’t start an engine to get more electricity.
So a good skipper and crew has “electrical power management” in mind whenever they turn an electrical gadget on or off!
It is with this in mind that we can cite a reality: If we need more electricity than the batteries alone must provide, and if a propulsion engine isn’t running, we will need to get our electrical power from an alternative source! That’s the most im- portant reason why we plug the boat in to shore power or use the generator: To keep from running down the batteries. For by using battery chargers getting their power from shore power or the generator, we can keep the batteries charged, or, at least, from getting too low.
In modern, luxury cruising boats, however, there is another important factor: Some of the “goodies” we like to have on board such as hair dryers and microwave ovens require ordinary household electricity. This is 110 volts AC. It is different from DC. So if we want to use these things when we’re not at a dock, we must have another way to get 110 volts AC, and for this we use the generator or an inverter, an amazing high tech gadget that takes 12 volts DC from the ship’s batteries and makes it into 110 volts AC!
So here’s what we’ve got: A lot of stuff running on 12 volts DC with that electricity from the batteries. To keep the bat- teries from running down, we have alternators run by the engines, and battery chargers that get their power from shore power. For the stuff that runs on 110 voltsAC, we have shore power, the generator, or, for making AC out of the batteries’ DC, the inverter.
Battery Banks The batteries on this boat are not just one, big all-purpose battery. To have redundancy, there are actually several “banks” of batteries assigned different tasks.
Two “starting banks” of two battery (located outboard of the port engine) is used for starting each engine only. That way, we won’t run it down playing the stereo, for instance, and then be unable to start an engine. This battery is charged by the 90-amp engine alternators when either engine is running, or can be charged by the battery charger, or inverter char- ger, if it is on when there is shore power or the generator is running.
22 | DISCOVERY OPERATING MANUAL NW Explorations A second bank of five AGM batteries is called “the house battery”. Connected to this are all the pumps, interior and exte- rior lights, horns, navigation and radio gear, etc. This bank runs the boat’s “house”. It is charged by the alternator on the port starboard engine and, when there is shore power or the generator is running, by the battery charger and/or by the inverter if they are on.
When the starting button is pressed on either of the engines, a special high-capacity switch (called a “solenoid”) closes and connects the starting and house batteries together! This way, we can be virtually positive that our engines will start.
And a third battery (smaller, on the port side) is used exclusively for starting the generator. What redundancy!
DC Power Panel The nerve center of the DC electrical system is the DC circuit breaker panel by the helm. On this panel in the left and center columns are the switches that control power to the boat’s various systems. On the right of the panel are the switches for the engine(s) and the main battery switch.
Just as in your home, most of these switches are true “circuit breakers”: they feed power to somewhere in the boat where there is another switch which, in turn, turns the item on and off. An example of this would be the circuit break- ers for the horn and electric head. If the breaker is turned on, the horn won’t work unless you push the horn button, and the head won’t start flushing the moment you turn the breaker on, either!
NW Explorations DISCOVERY OPERATING MANUAL | 23 But some of the other breakers also serve as the switch for the item. An example of this would be the navigation light breaker or the macerator pump breaker. So here is the list of switches and how they’re used: (“B” means used as breaker, “S” means used as switch AND breaker):
BREAKER USE BREAKER USE Horn B To horn buttons Courtesy Lights S Turns on courtesy lighting Wiper B To wipers Radar B To radar Nav & Instrument Turns on nav and instrument S Plotter B To plotter Lts Lights Anchor Light S Turns on anchor light Video Sounder B To sounder Turns on spreader lighting Turns on depth & Spreader Light S Depth-Speed S for deck speed units Saloon, Cabin Lts. B To individual light switches CB-VHF B To CB & both VHF radios (3) To shower drain pump Drain Pump B Autopilot B To autopilot switches To fresh water pump To sea water pump press. F. W. Pump B Washdown B pressure switch sw. To bilge pump toggle Galley Vent B To vent switch above range Aft Bilge Pump B switches Turns on engine room Head Vent B To vent switches in heads Engine Room Lts S lights Turns on holding tank over- To “stop” buttons Macerator Pump S Stop Sol. B board pump both engs. Two automatic vacuum Turns on port engine Electric Head B Power Port S pumps for both heads power Turns on stbd engine Gas Stove B To propane switch in galley Power Stbd S power Turns on port engine Synchronizer B To synchronizer switches Blower Port S room fan To switch on oil change Turns on stbd engine Oil Change Pump B Blower Stbd S pump room fan Trim Tabs B To trim tab switches by helm
In general, when on the boat, you’ll have the navigation, anchor, mast/spreader, courtesy, engine room lights and macer- ator pump breakers “OFF”, with all others “ON”. The Engine switches will all be “OFF” unless running, in which case the “Stop Sol” and power switches will be “ON”.
There are two bilge pump toggle switches in the right row of breakers. These switches are fed electricity by the single bilge pump breaker labeled “Aft Bilge Pump” (yes, it is mislabeled!) in the middle row. The switches control the operation of each pump as follows: In the down, “AUTO”, position, the pump is controlled by its own float switch. This is the normal position for these switches. In the middle position, the bilge pump is totally “OFF”; this might be used if the pump’s float switch fails and the pump could burn out from constant running. In the up, “ON”, position, the pump is running under the operator’s control; this might be used to test the pumps, or to see how much water is in the bilge.
When the engines are not running, the main Battery Switch on this panel should always be left in the “ON” position. NEVER switch this to “off” with the engine running!
24 | DISCOVERY OPERATING MANUAL NW Explorations In addition to the switches on the DC panel, there is an Anchor Windlass switch to the right of the helm. This switch should be “ON” only when using the anchor windlass.
DC Voltmeter & Cigarette Lighter Outlets To the right of the helm there is a DC voltmeter with a switch that lets you check the ship’s batteries. There is also a “cigarette lighter” outlet here and at the upper helm to plug in accessories.
DC Battery Monitor Discovery is fitted with a Blue Sea Systems digital DC Battery Monitor. This unit allows you to check the condition of the ship’s batteries.
The three buttons control the mode that the monitor is in:
V “Volts” mode. Measures battery voltage • 12.8 Volts, fully charged battery, no load or charging. • 13.2 Volts, “Float” charging, battery is full. • 14.2 Volts, “Bulk” charging, battery is not full.
A “Amps” mode. Measures current in amps to or from the batteries (no sign=batteries charging, “-“ sign, batteries dis- charging).
H “Amp-Hours” mode. Shows the present state of the batteries.
Normally you will use the “V” or “A” mode. Note that the unit can monitor three battery banks (1,2,3) but you will pri- marily use it for the “house” battery.
The AC Electrical System The AC Electrical System is controlled at two sites, the AC circuit breaker panel and the inverter control panel. In addition, there is an AC voltmeter and AC ammeter located by the helm.
The AC Switch Panel to left of the helm. This is the panel to right of the helm. From top down: The autopilot control; charger control, DC outlet and trim tab rocker switches; windlass breaker/remote control (with the red buttons) and the grey battery condition meter; the black Magnum inverter control; and the large AC voltmeter and ammeter. NW Explorations DISCOVERY OPERATING MANUAL | 25 Just as in the case of the DC panel, the AC panel has some circuit breakers which are also switches:
BREAKER USE BREAKER USE Outlets (2) B To Outlets Dryer B To dryer Icemaker B To Icemaker Washer B To washer Microwave B To Microwave Outlet F.B.Fridge B (unused) To Refrig. & Freezer Fridge B PILOT LIGHTS thermostats Water Heater B To W.H. Thermostat Water Heater On If lit: water heater is on Battery Charger B To Battery Charger AC Supp. On If lit:AC is to the switch panel Water maker B Watermaker Reverse Polarity If lit: SEE BELOW AT ONCE! Spare* B Nav. Computer Power
If the Reverse Polarity Light lights, it indicates that the shore power supply is mis-wired, a very dangerous (but for- tunately, rare) condition that could lead to an electrical shock, and will damage the boat’s underwater running gear through the phenomenon known as electrolysis. You should remove the shore power cable immediately if this occurs and advise the marina’s officials at once!
*The “Spare” Breaker was to be re-placarded, this label may not agree with the actual placard.
Connecting/Disconnecting Shore Power The large AC shore power selector switch on the AC circuit breaker panel is used to determine the source of AC power for the boat. This switch should be left “OFF” whenever you are connecting or disconnecting the boat to shore. This is true so that you do not draw an arc from the plug due to the load of the boat on the connector’s pins: such an arc will burn the contacts and eventually cause them to overheat when in use, creating a fire hazard.
Once connected to shore power, monitor the AC voltmeter and ammeter to be sure you have not overloaded the circuit.
Important Note: If the inverter batteries are low when you first hook up to shore power, and the inverter is turned on (as it should be), the inverter will begin charging its batteries at a very high charging rate, drawing a lot of shore pow- er current. Until this demand reduces (see “The Inverter System” below), you should turn “OFF” other high-current AC appliances such as the water heater.
You can then turn on AC appliances as needed. Watch the ammeter to be sure you don’t exceed the dock’s available supply, typically 30 amps.
Here are some estimates of AC power consumption for typical appliances:
Water Heater 15 amps Inverter up to 22 amps Hair Dryer 12 amps TV 1.5 amps Coffee maker 10 amps Microwave 10 amps
26 | DISCOVERY OPERATING MANUAL NW Explorations The Inverter System As we said, the Inverter system is used to provide AC to the boat when there is no shore power. It is wonderful, for example, to use the inverter to make a pot of coffee when the engines are running and you are underway, or to watch TV in a quiet anchorage, or use a hair dryer for a few minutes in the morning. But for long-period use of AC by large appliances, the engines or generator must be running or you must have shore power available. That’s because the inverter’s batteries store about 100-150 amp-hours of electricity, that is, they can produce 100 amps for one hour, more or less.
Now the microwave, for example, will draw about 100 amps of DC when using the inverter to run it, so in six minutes you use one-tenth of an hour at 100 amps, or ten ampere- hours. That means that in six minutes, you’ve consumed 10% of the house batteries’ stored power. That’s okay. But what if you want to cook a roast for 30 minutes? You used up half your energy on that one job alone! That’s too much use for the inverter, and the propane stove should be used.
For a short task, the inverter is great: no starting the generator, no noise, no fuss, the power is there. If the engines are running, use it all you wish, as long as you don’t try to do two big jobs at once: The inverter can only produce 3,000 watts of energy at a time. So the inverter is only wired to the outlets, refrigerator, and the microwave. It will not run the water heater, battery charger or watermaker. Electric boat heaters, particularly, should never be run by the inverter; start the generator instead!
But in addition to making AC out of DC, the inverter can do the reverse! If there is AC available from shore power, it will charge batteries! You tell what the inverter is doing by its control panel. The little lights indicate its status:
INVERTER L.E.D. STATUS LIGHTS “PWR” “is lit if there is AC available for battery charging (from shore power or the generator). FAULT“ ” will light if the system detects a problem (this is rare): See the manual.
“CHG” will blink rapidly just after shore power or the generator comes on, indicating the unit is getting power but is not yet charging; it will be steady on if the Inverter is charging the batteries; off if the charger is not on nor is it charging; and blink slowly if the charger has insufficient AC power to charge the batteries in which case you will need to reduce theAC load or start the generator. “INV” will be “ON” if the inverter is on and supplying power to AC equipment on the boat; it will blink slowly if the inverter is on, but there is no equipment drawing power from it; and it will be off if the inverter is not run. Inverter Control Touch a button to “wake up” the display before anything will work! Buttons:
On/Off Charger: Controls the charger function of the inverter. Should be left “On”.
On/Off Inverter: Controls the inverter function. Should be left “On” except when at a moorage for long periods, such as overnight or longer, when the generator is not on and there is no shore power, to avoid depleting the batteries in case an AC appliance or light fixture has been left on. Shore: Pressing this button will display the present maximum power the charger will require from the boat’s shore power connection; options are 5, 10, 15, 20, 30, and 50 amps. For example, you might normally want it on “30”, but if limited to a small dock connection, may want it at “10” so that you don’t trip the dock circuit breaker. Meter: This button sets the display to show DC amps and voltage to/from the batteries. AGS / Setup / Please do not use these soft-keys. Tech:
NW Explorations DISCOVERY OPERATING MANUAL | 27 Remember the important note above under “Connecting/ Disconnecting Shore Power”: The inverter, if on, will draw a lot of current when bulk charging, so be careful not to overload a shore power circuit. If “PWR” and “CHG” are both lit, you will want to monitor the AC Ammeter by the lower helm and possibly reset the “Shore” setting!
In summary, the inverter should be on whenever shore power is present or the generator is running, and it should be left on when underway. It is a good idea to turn the inverter off at anchor (when the generator isn’t running), turning it on only when you want to use something briefly, as above; in this way, you will avoid running down the house batteries just because someone left some AC appliance plugged in and forgotten.
Digital AC Meter The boat is fitted with a digital AC monitor on the overhead electronics panel in the salon. This is an especially accurate way to check your generator or shore power.
V Read AC voltage in volts A Read AC current in amps Hz Read AC Frequency in Hertz
The Generator System The ship’s Northern Lights Generator provides 8,000 watts of AC power to the vessel and is mainly used for battery charging, heating water, refrigeration, operation of the washer/dryer, and incidental heat using the small portable electric heaters (although using the Diesel furnace for heating is more common).
The generator itself is in the engine room, and its oil and coolant levels are checked before each charter by the NWE staff. Access to these is by unlatching and removing the starboard side panel on the generator’s sound-shield cabinet. More important is checking the sea strainer (see previous section) to be sure is has not accumulated substantial debris while the generator was run for extended periods, particularly at anchor.
Starting the Generator 1. Hold down the “Preheat” switch in the AC control panel by the helm for 15 seconds (this energizes “glow plugs” to warm the engine’s cylinders). 2. While still holding “preheat”, press and hold the “start” switch until the engine starts. 3. Check the generator exhaust at midships on the port side, or listen for it to confirm that cooling water is being pumped from it. 4. After a brief warm-up of a minute or so, switch the shore power switch in the AC power panel to “Gen”. You should see the “AC Present” pilot light go on! Stopping the Generator 1. Switch the Shore Power switch to “Off”. This removes the load for the generator and allows it to cool down. 2. After at least a minute to allow the generator to cool down, press and hold the stop switch until the generator comes to a complete stop.
Generator Problems The generator monitors its own operation! It was two fault-detection systems: one of these will detect any loss in oil pressure, the other detects overheating. If either condition occurs, the generator will shut itself off, and it then will not keep running when you try to restart it.
If this occurs, you can confirm that the cause was such a fault by looking on the aft starboard side of the generator where you will see a “fault”button. If a fault has occurred, the button will be out; it is normally flush with the panel if there is no fault.
If the generator will not keep running, call NW Explorations for assistance. 28 | DISCOVERY OPERATING MANUAL NW Explorations Heads & Holding Tanks Head System Overview The head system on this boat is reliable, straightforward, and easy-to-use. First, a note about discharge of sewage:
U.S. WATERS: It is forbidden to discharge untreated sewage in inland U.S. waters, an area that includes all U.S. waters in which this boat operates. The boat holding tank must only be emptied at proper pump-out stations if it is in U.S. wa- ters.
CANADIAN WATERS: You are obligated to use a pump-out station if it is practical. Pump-out stations are becoming more common in Canada and mariners should plan their trip to use these facilities to remain in compliance with Cana- dian law.
Holding tanks must not be dumped in confined marinas or bays or any area designated as a no discharge zone. When a pump-out facility is not available, discharge of the holding tank should be done while moving at the fastest practical speed at least 3 nautical miles from shore or, if in waters less than 6 nautical miles shore to shore, in the deepest -wa ter furthest from shore on an ebb tide or in the deepest, fasting moving water furthest from shore. Please review the official Canadian rules for complete details (Regulations for the Prevention of Pollution from Ships and for Dangerous Chemicals, Division 4, Subdivision 4, Section 129, 1(e)).
The boat is equipped with two MasterFlush marine heads. These heads each have a separate system which macerates waste and puts it into a holding tank. The holding tank is emptied either of two ways: by operating an overboard mac- erator pump controlled at the DC power panel, or by pumping using a shore side pump-out station through the boat’s pump-out fitting on the port side in the walk-around just aft of midship.
The Dometic MasterFlush Heads These premium heads are easy to use, odor free, and very reliable. They work with a macerating pump for each head.
These heads use about a pint of fresh water from the ship’s supply with each flush.
Each head is operated by a pair of “rocker” switches on the nearby vanity.
• Flush with water: Press the left button (the one with an image of a toilet and an arrow down) and release.
• Fill with water: Press the right button (the one with an image of a toilet and an arrow up) to add water to the bowl.
• Flush: Press the bottom of the right hand rocker switch and hold until the bowl empties completely.
Only things which were eaten or drunk or the toilet paper supplied with the boat should be put in the heads! Facial tissues, tampons, and other foreign matter will clog the system. If these heads are used properly, they are very reliable. Failures are virtually always due to mis-use!
Head Problems Remember, the two head systems are completely separate: If you have trouble, turn off the faulty head and use just the other head; call NWE for assistance.
Of course, if the holding tank is full, the heads cannot work! Pump the holding tank (see below) when required!
Holding Tank Pumpout & Macerator Pump There is a holding tank on the boat located under the aft stateroom floor (mostly under the closet). The sewage from each head goes to the holding tank. If dumped overboard from this tank, the effluent passes through a through-hull valve (normally open) just aft of the holding tank in the engine room on the starboard side of the boat. NW Explorations DISCOVERY OPERATING MANUAL | 29 The boat is equipped with a tank level indicator in the aft head compartment, so it is easy to tell if the tank is full. Check this indicator every time you use the head, and don’t flush if full!
To dump the tank, use a shore side pump out station connecting to the “Waste” deck fitting on the side deck. If not in U.S. waters or a “no-discharge zone”, you can dump the tank overboard without a pump out station by turning “ON” the macerator pump at the DC panel. Then turn the macerator pump timer about 180 degrees located on the lower right side of the helm station.
It takes about four minutes to empty a full holding tank. The best way to monitor it is to run it until bubbles come out from under the starboard side of the hull.
Heating System The boat is equipped with a Webasto Hot Water Heating System. This is a very compact furnace that burns the same Die- sel fuel as the engines. The fuel comes from one of the engine tanks, but it uses a negligible amount of fuel, about a pint each hour it actually runs. The furnace heats hot water which is circulated throughout the boat. Individual blowers, each with its own “off-low-high” switch, then forces the air into each area of the boat from small heat exchangers in each area.
The furnace is controlled by a thermostat and switch, located just left of the lower helm above the electric panels. Nor- mally, this switch is set to “system heat”, and the thermostat is set to the desired level. The furnace’s built-in computer will warm up the furnace, supply heat to the boat until the thermostat senses it is warm enough, then shut off the fans while the furnace goes through a “cool-down” cycle. You need not do anything but set the thermostat with the switch “on”!
To control the balance of heat between the boat’s areas, use the individual fan control switches by each fan, or open, close, or re-direct the deflectors on the outlets.
To heat the yacht while underway, turn the heater switch to the “Engine Heat” position. Now the hot water in the system will be heated by the starboard engine instead of the furnace. All other operation is the same - - - in other words, the thermostat will control the fans just as though the furnace, rather than the engine, was providing the heat source.
The green light in the switch panel will tell you whether the furnace is actually running; in the event of difficulty, it also will blink according to a code to tell the operator or service technician what the problem is.
As you can see, this furnace system is very flexible and a great addition to the boat! As long as the batteries can support the modest DC power requirement of the fans and furnace blower, you will have plenty of quiet heat. In fact, this use of the house batteries’ energy for air circulation is a good reason to limit use of the furnace to times when passengers are awake, unless the boat has shore power available.
Note the location of the furnace exhaust on the port side of the boat! Care should be taken not to block this outlet with fenders or while rafting due to the very high temperature of the exhaust gases from the furnace.
The exhaust for the diesel furnace is under the next stanchion aft of the starboard spring line hawse pipe. Be careful not to tie fenders to this stanchion!
30 | DISCOVERY OPERATING MANUAL NW Explorations Galley Equipment The galley is fitted with a number of appliances for your convenience. Most of these (like the microwave) are easy to op- erate, “just like a home appliance”; nevertheless, we will spend some time discussing the propane stove, as it is a marine unit that does have some features that are slightly different than a home model.
Propane Stove The boat is equipped with a Force 10 propane stove with three top burners and a thermostatically-controlled oven and broiler.
Propane gas is heavier-than-air. Therefore it must be treated with care around a boat so that we can be absolutely sure there is no gas escaping into the atmosphere to collect in the boat’s lowest spot, the enclosed bilges, to become an explosive safety hazard. For this reason, the propane tank itself is housed above the galley in the left seat on the flying bridge. Obviously. Up there, if there is a leak, the gas will simply be vented overboard, for there is no way from there for it to be redirected into the boat, for all openings into the salon are sealed (otherwise they’d leak in a rainstorm!).
There is, of course, a manual gas valve on the propane tank. This valve is used only when exchanging/filling tanks. There is also a second valve, a “solenoid valve”, in the flybridge seat propane line immediately after the manual valve. This elec- tric valve is controlled by a switch in the galley itself, and in this way the cook can actually shut off the propane supply to the stove at its source when it not being used, simply by throwing the switch.
In addition, each stove burner including the oven is fitted with a “thermocouple”, a heat- sensing device that also con- trols the gas flow. When the gas supply is “turned on” to a burner, the gas will not flow unless (a) the burner is already on, or (b) the cook is holding the valve in the “light” position. So you can see the safety of this arrangement: If the burner goes out for any reason, the thermocouple will shut off the fuel automatically, assuring you of a safe galley.
To Light a Burner: Lighting a burner is easy and only takes five to ten seconds:
1. Be sure the propane valve circuit breaker in the DC panel is on. 2. Turn on the remote propane valve on the fly bridge by throwing the over-the- stove “Propane” switch (when you do this, the pilot light on the switch panel will light, and you will see the red area on the switch). 3. Turn the knob for your selected burner to “light”, holding it in, and press the red igniter button on the left of the stove several times until the burner lights. Sometimes you may need to turn the knob a little further toward “high”, or, if the tank has been changed, keep trying for a few seconds before fuel reaches the stove after purging air from the pipe. 4. After the burner lights, continue to hold the knob in for a few seconds while the thermocouple heats up before adjusting the flame to the desired intensity.
To Light the Oven: Since the oven burner is out of sight when the door is closed and it is on, and since while in use, the flame, controlled by the oven thermostat, goes on and off to control the temperature accurately, the oven has a pilot light that lights it when in use. Therefore the cook must “light the pilot” when the stove’s oven is to be used. Also, by not leaving the pilot light on all the time since the oven isn’t used at every meal, the boat’s propane is conserved.
Just as with the burners, lighting the oven is easy, and will take about 20 seconds:
1. Follow steps (1) and (2) above turning on the circuit breaker and propane switch. 2. Locate the pilot light assembly in the opening under the oven divider, at the right front of the burner assembly. 3. Turn the oven control to “light”, and, while holding the red “oven light” button on the right side of the range, use a match or butane fire-lighter to light the pilot light, holding the red button in for another fifteen seconds after the pilot is lit for the thermocouple to heat up and allow the pilot to stay on. If the pilot will not stay lit, hold the button in longer! 4. Adjust the thermostat to the desired temperature.
NW Explorations DISCOVERY OPERATING MANUAL | 31 Note: The oven burner will not immediately light! For safety reasons, the control has a slight time delay, and the oven’s main burner will light after about 20 or 30 seconds following control-setting. In this way, the burner does not “puff” on and off as you adjust the control.
1. Until you are completely done with the oven for this cooking session, you may leave the control in the “light” position between cooking your dishes, so that to use it some more all you need to do is re-set it to a temperature --- the pilot is still lit. 2. When done with the oven for this meal, turn it completely “off”. The pilot light will go out. 3. Remember to turn off the propane solenoid valve when finished using the stove.
Refrigerator & Freezer The boat is equipped with an efficient two-door “cold plate” refrigerator that runs on 110 volts AC only.
The refrigeration cannot be run from the inverter, only shore power or generator. You can control the refrigeration opera- tion with the breaker in the AC panel; it is best to leave the thermostats set.
When the fridge compressor is running, it is cooled by sea water pumped through cooling coils. The compact water pump is in the engine room as is the compressor, to keep noise minimal. The “cold plates” actually store the cold, and, when combined with the excellent insulation, the compressor only needs to run a little each day (an hour or two) to stay cold, unless you leave the door open a lot.
Refrigeration temperatures are controlled by the thermostat in the back of the refrigerator; set as required after allowing the refrigerator to stabilize for a few hours after loading.
The freezer operates on the same principle.
The shelves are adjustable in the refrigerators; be careful not to lose the shelf support clips when you are adjusting the shelf height.
Cold Plate refrigerators will damage perishables if they are against the plates! It is best to separate lettuce, etc., from the cold plate with packaged goods such as milk in cartons that, if partially frozen (only the plate is below freezing) will not be significantly damaged.
32 | DISCOVERY OPERATING MANUAL NW Explorations Electronics: Navigation Equipment, Radios & Radar Overview The boat is equipped with Coastal Explorer navigation software which runs on a desktop computer, mounted to the left at the lower helm. It will always make your location easily identifiable.
Each unit is provided with a dedicated circuit breaker in the DC power panel; this breaker must be on for the unit to be used. Then the unit’s own power button or knob must be used. The computer is on the A/C panel.
This manual does not cover all the detailed electronic equipment operations. You should review the specific manufactur- er’s instructions for each unit before use!
VHF Radios The VHF radios controls are at both helm stations, in the salon and on the flying bridge. The radios are designed for easy access to Channel 16 which is the hailing and emergency channel in the Northwest. Other buttons allow you to select different channels, weather channels, high and low power, and US/International opera- tion. Your checkout skipper and/or the radios’ own instructions will quickly familiarize you with basic operation.
Hailer The boat is equipped with a hailer to communicate with off-boat, nearby personnel. To use the hailer, depress the “PA” button on the The VHF radio at the lower helm. The CB radio and the hailer speaker selector switch are above it. VHF, select the forward of aft speaker on the switch immediately above the VHF radio, and press the microphone key to talk.
CB Radio The CB radio above the VHF radio over the lower helm is a standard Uniden unit and can be used as any CB.
Radar The boat is equipped with a Furuno radar set. This unit is used, combined with the electronic chart unit, for operation in restricted visibility, with the radar primarily serving as a device for collision avoidance while the chart unit provides position.
Proper and safe use of a ship’s radar requires lots of practice and careful study. While you are using the boat, you can have the radar on as much as you like to get used to the way it displays images, but for detailed operating instructions we refer you to the radar’s own complete manual. The Furuno Displays can show various screens of info; in this picture, it is in the Note that charterer’s insurance DOES NOT PERMIT OPERATION OF THE “Plotter” mode. It is also the radar display VESSEL IN RESTRICTED VISIBILITY. You should confine your use of the radar when that mode is selected. to familiarization and training only in weather with good visibility.
The radar system is also equipped with AIS interfacing, so that when the computer is on you will see data about any targets (ships) within radar range.
NW Explorations DISCOVERY OPERATING MANUAL | 33 Furuno GPS Discovery has been equipped with a Furuno GPS system. You will seldom use any but the position indications which are the “default” when it is turned on. Just as with the other electronics, use the Furuno manual for full instructions.
Wind & Weather Monitor Discovery is fitted with a Furuno Wind Speed/Wind Direction/Temperature/Barometric Pressure monitor on the overhead electronics panel in the saloon.
Electronic Charting System The boat is equipped with Coastal Explorer plotting software which runs on a desktop computer (in the helm cabinet) and is displayed on a large screen at the lower helm. It will always make your location easily identifiable.
THE ELECTRONIC CHARTING SYSTEM IS NOT A SUBSTITUTE FOR CAREFUL STUDY OF TRADITIONAL PAPER CHARTS. You are required by maritime law to use your paper charts for navigation information, especially since electronic chart technology does not always permit full cartographic details to show. The Electronic charts are for convenience only!
The software runs in Microsoft Windows. To turn on the computer, lift the lid on the helm cabinet; you will see the power button on the near corner of the processor cabinet. When turned “on”, the computer will “boot”. After it boots, double-click the “Coastal Explorer” icon to start the navigation pro- gram.
If you are not completely familiar with the Coastal Explorer, please operate the system with care, reading the manual before you make any changes to any settings! Thank you.
AIS (Automatic Identification System) This boat is equipped with Class B AIS. The system is automatic and no inputs are required by the operator. This system allows other vessels equipped with AIS to share and automatically update their position, speed, course and vessel infor- mation. This information is displayed on both Furuno GPS Plotters and may be selected on the laptop navigation display.
AIS is a valuable tool to aid your situational awareness and help prevent collisions. Your checkout skipper may demon- strate its use and the operating manual is onboard.
Please DO NOT make any changes to the AIS configuration.
Depth & Speed Indicators The depth sounder displays at both helm stations, and shows depth BELOW THE KEEL. Because our waters are some- times very deep, the depth sounder will not display or will stay on a high depth reading when the water’s depth is beyond its capacity.
Remember when backing up, or crossing a “tide line”, that turbulent water from the tides, boat’s screws or another boat can interrupt the sounding information received by the unit. Be careful!
Note: Northwest waters are rocky and depths change rapidly. You should be especially careful to study your charts, and then check them often whenever running in lesser depths, so that you don’t hit a rock! Just as our islands “pop up” to heights of 50, 100, or even thousands of feet in a very small distance, so do rocky obstacles!
A speed and log system is also provided. Its indications are obvious; for more information, see its manual.
34 | DISCOVERY OPERATING MANUAL NW Explorations Depth & Speed: Upper Helm. Rudder indicator to right.
Autopilot The boat is equipped with a Comnav 1001 autopilot. The primary control is at the lower helm (see illustration page 4-9). A second, remote control on a cable is at the upper helm behind the electronics door in the console. Rudder indicators are at both helms; the Autopilot must be “on” for them to work!
Basic operation is simple:
1. To turn on the unit, turn the switch by the helm to “standby”. The unit will do a quick self-test, then display its present heading. 2. To engage the autopilot, turn the switch to “Pilot”. It will hold the heading. 3. To disengage the pilot, turn the switch back to “Standby”. 4. To use the flybridge control, the pilot must be on at the helm station. Then hold down both the red and green buttons on the remote control for three seconds or so until the small dot on the display moves from “Master” to “Rem”. Now the remote is the control point! 5. To restore control to the helm, hold down its two buttons in the same way until the dot moves to “Master”.
ALWAYS MAINTAIN A CAREFUL LOOKOUT WHEN USING THE AUTOPILOT! It is an aid to comfortable cruising, not a re- placement for an aware, diligent helmsperson! Remember, you can disengage it quickly at any time simply by turning the switch to “Standby”!
NW Explorations DISCOVERY OPERATING MANUAL | 35 Section V: “What to Do If” ANCHOR CHAIN WON’T COME OUT OF CHAIN LOCKER The anchor chain is continuous, secured at both ends, and cannot tangle. But sometimes a pile of chain will fall over, and one loop of chain will fall through another loop. Usually you can clear this by grasping the chain where it exits the hawse pipe from the chain locker with your hands, and pulling it up or down to “jiggle” the loop out of the chain; you may have to retrieve some chain to do this, in order to have enough slack to jiggle it! It is rare when this will not clear the jam. The other solution: go below and clear the tangle in the chain locker. Caution: Turn off the windlass breaker to protect your hands when manhandling chain! ANCHOR FOULED, CAN’T RAISE IT This can happen if you “pull the boat to the anchor” with the windlass. You should move the boat under power until it is over the anchor, or, even better, slightly ahead of it before hauling. Usually this will clear it. Otherwise, take a line and form a fixed, loose loop around the chain. Weight the loop, and lower it down the line until it reaches the bottom, sliding down the chain. Then, using the dinghy, take the line forward past the anchor so that you can pull the anchor out, oppo- site the direction its flukes are pointing. This should help you to pull the anchor free. ANCHOR WINDLASS WON’T TURN If the motor isn’t running, is the circuit breaker by the lower helm on? If the motor is running, is the clutch tight? Use the anchor windlass handle. Windlasses are equipped with a shear pin to protect them: if you sheared the pin, you will have to haul the anchor by hand using the emergency handle. BATTERIES (HOUSE) KEEP RUNNING DOWN Have you run the engines or generator enough? Is something left on (like the engine room or mast lights, too many elec- tronics, etc.) that is too great a load for the time you were not charging? Are you using the inverter for big jobs? Use the stove or shore power. Have you had the inverter on whenever plugged in to shore power or running the generator? You must, for the house batteries to charge! ENGINE OVERHEATS Is the drive belt for the water pump intact? Spare belts are in the engine room spares kit. Is the sea strainer clogged? See that section in this manual. Is the impeller shot?
If sea strainer is clear and belt is good, this is likely. Change (spare in spares kit) or call a mechanic. Do not run engine if it overheats! ENGINE WON’T START If starter does not turn, is transmission in neutral? Try jiggling shift lever while pushing start button. Check battery, -bat tery switches. Try starting with battery switch set to “both”. Or start generator, charge all the batteries. If starter turns, assume fuel problem: did you bump a fuel valve on the manifold at back of engine room? Make sure all open, if one was closed, re-prime engine or call a mechanic if you can’t do this (see Caterpillar engine manual). FOG DELAYS RETURN Call NWE by telephone or VHF marine operator and advise for instructions. HEAD WON’T FLUSH Is breaker on? Turn it on. Have you over-filled the holding tank? Pump it to allow more effluent to enter it. See the
36 | DISCOVERY OPERATING MANUAL NW Explorations “Heads” section of this manual. If all else fails, just use only the other head. HIT A FISH NET Engines in Neutral: don’t try to back off, you may foul the net more. Try pulling the boat back with the dinghy & out- board. Get assistance from the fisherman. You are responsible for damage you cause to a net! HIT A LOG OR ROCK See EMERGENCY PROCEDURES, next chapter. PROPELLER FOULED OR DAMAGED Best thing: have the prop checked by a diver or dive it yourself if able. Check for vibration. Try turning shaft by hand in engine room, both should be turn-able with engine in neutral. Is shaft noisy, or does it load engine? Do not use that side or call Vessel Assist. See emergency procedures, next chapter. WATER (FRESH) WON’T FLOW Is there water in the tank? Is F.W. Pump breaker on? If capable, check pressure switch on pump, run manually if neces- sary.
NW Explorations DISCOVERY OPERATING MANUAL | 37 Section VI: Emergency Procedures Protect your lives first! 1. Put on life jackets 2. Contact the Coast Guard with an emergency “MAYDAY” call. 3. If adrift, prepare to anchor to keep the boat from drifting into danger. If the boat is really sinking, consider “beaching it” if necessary. 4. Launch the dinghy and prepare to board if necessary. If an engine is available and you have time, mount the outboard engine and load its fuel tanks. Take a handheld VHF radio, if available. Be sure to wear life jackets!
Then, worry about the boat! In a true emergency, you certainly are authorized to call for immediate commercial assistance as minimally required to assure the safety of you and the boat.
It is not an emergency, however, if neither you nor the boat are at risk. For all non- emergency assistance or mechanical repairs done by others, NW Explorations MUST give prior approval for you to be reimbursed! If you think it may not be an emergency: If you have any concern about your long-term safety, contact the Coast Guard, either normally or using an urgent “PAN” call. Tell them that you are calling to advise them about your situation, so they can keep in touch.
Be sure that the status and safety of the boat and crew is someone’s responsibility while you sort out the boat’s problem. For example, delegate your mate to keep a watch for hazards, or to operate the boat on course slowly while you deal with the difficulty.
Here is a checklist for solving the problem:
(A) Isolate it;
(B) Get the manuals;
(C) Get parts;
(D) If necessary, call NW Explorations for help.
Over the years, most problems with charter boats are caused by misuse! Holding tanks overflow because they aren’t checked; heads clog because foreign matter (especially facial tissues and tampons) are put in them; engines fail because they run out of fuel, then must be “purged” to re-start. Use the boat carefully, and you’ll avoid these problems.
Almost all problems that are not operator-caused, i.e., that are boat deficiencies, are caused by pumps that fail, hoses and belts that break, and seawater strainers that get clogged.
Generally, these problems are annoyances, and usually they are inconvenient, but they still can happen. Try to stay calm, collected, and be a professional by dealing with the problem in a businesslike, calm way. It will make everyone’s day a better one!
38 | DISCOVERY OPERATING MANUAL NW Explorations Hitting a Log, Rock, or Debris ----- Please Don’t! Hitting a log is a real risk in our Northern waters because logging, and “log rafts,” are such a big part of our commerce.
If you hit a log:
• Did you put a hole in the boat? Idle the engines, then think: usually, you can tell just by where the noise of the hit came from. Check the bilges (don’t forget the lazarette area, where the rudder posts are) after putting the engines into idle and/or neutral, if necessary.
If you did “hole” the boat, go immediately to the “If an Emergency” on the preceding pages.
• If no hole, and still idling, is the boat vibrating?
If “yes,” put each engine into neutral in turn, identify and shut down the offender. Then continue on one engine. Call NW Explorations after you reach the closest safe harbor. If no vibration at idle, slowly accelerate one engine at a time. Is there vibration on either?
If “yes,” run at idle or on only the good engine, to reach a close, safe harbor. Then contact NW Explorations.
With a twin-screw boat, the damaged running gear can’t be used after hitting an object. However, if while under way on one engine the other engine’s propeller shaft rotates by itself because of water passing over it’s propellor, then you must let the unused engine idle in neutral so that its transmission has lubrication, and the cutless bearings on the damaged shaft are lubricated. This is still true whether the boat has dripless shaft seals or a standard shaft “log”.
When running on one engine with the other idling as required, be sure that the idling engine is pumping water through its exhaust pipe.
• If there is no vibration on either engine, you probably did no running gear damage. Congratulations! Our diver will check your vessel’s bottom upon your return, just as after every charter.
NW Explorations DISCOVERY OPERATING MANUAL | 39 Index
A E AC...... 11, 21-22, 25-28, 32 Electronics ...... 2, 5-6, 28, 33-36 Accommodations...... 6 Emergency...... 3, 6-7, 9, 33, 36-39 AC power panel...... 28 Emergency procedures...... 3, 37-38 AIS...... 33-34 Engine. . 5-6, 8-9, 11, 13, 15, 17-19, 21-24, 28-30, 32, 36-39 Alternator...... 23 Engine oil ...... 11 Ammeter ...... 25-26, 28 Engine room. . . . . 8-9, 17-18, 21, 24, 28-29, 32, 36-37 Anchor ...... 5, 9, 11-12, 15, 24-25, 28, 36, 38 Engine room lighting...... 8 Anchoring...... 15-16 Engines. . . . . 8, 11-13, 15, 17-18, 22-24, 27, 30, 36-39 Anchor windlass...... 5, 25, 36 Exhaust...... 12, 28, 30, 39 Appliances ...... 26-27, 31 Exterior...... 4, 7, 23 Automatic identification system...... 34 Autopilot...... 35 F Fenders...... 9, 11, 13, 30 B Filters ...... 8, 22 Barbeque ...... 5 Fire extinguishers...... 6, 9 Batteries...... 8, 21-23, 25-28, 30, 32, 36 Flares...... 9 Battery ...... 8-9, 11-12, 22-25, 27-28, 36 Flashlight ...... 18 Battery charger ...... 22-23, 27 Flashlights...... 6 Battery chargers...... 22 Fluids...... 18 Battery charging...... 12, 28 Flybridge...... 4-5, 19, 31, 35 Berth...... 7, 29 Freezer...... 32 Bilge pump...... 24 Fresh water...... 8-9, 17, 21-22, 29 Breaker panel...... 23, 25-26 Fresh water pump...... 21-22 Fresh water system...... 17, 21 C Fuel...... 4, 8-9, 11, 14, 18, 20, 30-31, 36, 38 Canvas...... 5, 19 Fuel filters...... 8 Chain Locker...... 36 Fuel levels...... 8 Chart...... 7, 33-34 Fuel manifold...... 8 Checklist...... 3, 12, 38 Fuel tank...... 9, 11 Checklists...... 3, 11 Fuel tanks...... 8, 14, 38 Circuit Breakers ...... 23, 26 Furnace...... 8, 28, 30 Cleaning...... 18 Coastal Explorer...... 33-34 G Coast Guard...... 38 Galley ...... 7, 17, 21, 31 Cockpit...... 4, 21 Generator...... 8, 11-12, 17-18, 22-23, 27-28, 32, 36 Coolant...... 11, 17, 28 Generator problems ...... 28 Current...... 11, 25-26, 28 Genset...... 8, 21 GPS...... 2, 6, 34 D DC...... 8, 12, 21-23, 25-27, 29-31, 33 H DC power...... 8, 23, 29-30, 33 Hailer ...... 2, 33 DC power panel...... 8, 23, 29, 33 Handheld VHF ...... 38 Deck chairs...... 9 Head...... 7-8, 11, 21, 23, 29-30, 36-37 Depth sounder...... 15, 34 Head systems...... 29 Dinghy...... 4-5, 9, 16-17, 19-20, 36-38 Heater...... 8, 11, 21, 26-27, 30 Dinghy davit...... 19 Helm...... 5-6, 15-16, 19, 23, 25, 28, 30, 33-36 Displacement...... 18 Hitting a log ...... 39 Docking...... 13 Holding tank...... 4, 11, 29-30, 36 Dryer...... 7, 27-28 Holding tank pumpout ...... 29 DVD...... 7 Holding tanks...... 17, 29, 38
40 | DISCOVERY OPERATING MANUAL NW Explorations Horn ...... 19, 23 Refrigerators...... 32 Hose...... 9, 14, 21 Repairs ...... 38 Hot water...... 21, 28, 30 Reset...... 21, 28 Restart ...... 28 I Restricted visibility...... 33 Icemaker...... 6 Reverse polarity...... 26 Inverter...... 8, 11, 17, 22-23, 25-28, 32, 36 Rudder ...... 13, 35, 39
K S Key ...... 33 Safety equipment...... 9 Salon...... 7-8, 19, 28, 31, 33 L Seacocks...... 8, 18 Laptop...... 33-34 Sea strainer...... 8, 18, 28, 36 Law...... 21, 34 Sea water...... 18, 32 Lines...... 9, 11, 16, 21 Shaft...... 8, 37, 39 Log...... 34, 37, 39 Shaft seals...... 39 Shore line...... 9, 15-16 M Shore power. . . . . 5-6, 11-12, 21-23, 26-28, 30, 32, 36 Maneuvering...... 11, 13, 15 Shower...... 7, 21 Maneuvering in a harbor ...... 13 Sides...... 6 Maneuvering suggestions...... 11 Solenoid valve ...... 31 Manuals...... 6-7, 38 Spares...... 6, 36 Mayday...... 38 Speed ...... 13, 16, 18, 34 Meters ...... 11 Starting...... 11-12, 22-23, 27-28, 36 Microwave...... 7, 22, 27, 31 Steering...... 16 Mooring buoy...... 12 Stereo...... 7, 22 Stern line ...... 13, 16 O Synchronizer...... 11, 13 Oil...... 8-9, 11, 17-20, 28 Oil leak...... 17 T Oil pressure ...... 19, 28 Table...... 6-7 Outboard ...... 5, 8-9, 17, 19-20, 22, 37-38 Temperature...... 17, 19, 30-32, 34 Outboard motor...... 9, 17, 19-20 Thermostats...... 32 Outlets ...... 25, 27, 30 Throttles...... 11, 13 Oven...... 7, 31-32 Tide...... 6, 15-16, 34 Owner...... 2 Tools...... 6 Transmission oil...... 18 P Transmissions...... 17-18 Plotter...... 2, 6 Trim tabs...... 11-12, 16 Polarity...... 26 TV ...... 7, 27 Propane ...... 5, 7, 27, 31 Propeller...... 37, 39 U Pump...... 8-9, 19, 21-22, 24, 29-30, 32, 36-37 Undocking ...... 13 Pumps...... 14, 21, 23-24, 38 V R Vacuum...... 6, 8 Radar...... 2, 6, 17, 33 VHF...... 9, 33, 36, 38 Radio...... 2, 9, 23, 33, 38 VHF radios ...... 33 Range ...... 16, 18, 31, 33 Voltage...... 25, 28 Refrigerator ...... 27, 32 Voltmeter...... 25-26
NW Explorations DISCOVERY OPERATING MANUAL | 41 W Wake...... 11 Washer...... 7, 28 Waste water...... 21 Water gauge...... 21 Water heater ...... 8, 11, 21, 26-27 Watermaker...... 2, 8, 21-22, 27 Weather...... 2-3, 15, 33-34 “What to do if” ...... 11, 36 Wind...... 34 Wind direction...... 34 Windlass...... 5, 12, 15, 19, 25, 36 Winds...... 13, 15 Windshield wiper...... 19 Wind speed ...... 34
NW Explorations 2623 South Harbor Loop Bellingham, Washington 98225 www.nwexplorations.com | (800) 826-1430 | (360) 676-1248