HoROLOGICAL TO TIMES April2005

American - Institute Model Size/Type & InterChange Sale Price

3 ETA 802.004/104 6 / 4 x 8, Reg. or S/S ...... $5.50 805.114 11 1hl, S/S, Date ...... 5.95 901.005 51h x 6314, 2 Hand (metal plates) ...... 8.50 F03.11 A* Jl/4 L, SIS, Date (Replaces 956.114) ...... 10.95 F04.11A* 83/4, SIS, Date (Replaces 956.414) ...... 10.95 F05.11A* 101/2, SIS, Date (Replaces 955.414) ...... 10.95 F06.11A * 11 1hL, SIS, Date (Replaces 955 .114) ...... 10.95 *A~ available with cal :_ndar at 6 o', please specify ...... 11.95

1 3 FE 5120 5h x 6 / 4, 2 Hand (Replaces Ron. 3572) ...... 8.50 5820 51/2 x 63/4, 2 Hand (Replaces FE6820,) ...... 14.95

1 3 Hattori PC11 5 h X 6 / 4, SIS ...... 3.95 PC21 63/4 X 8, SIS ...... 3.95 1 3 VX10NX11 5 h x 6 / 4, Reg. or SIS ...... 6.95 VX33 10 1h L, SIS, Day/Date ...... 8.95 VX43 11 1/2 L, SIS, Day/Date ...... 8.95 3 Y121 6 /4 X 8, SIS ...... 3.95 Y121* 6314 x 8, SIS {*with high can pinion) ...... 3.50

3 Miyota 2035 6 /4 x 8, S/S ...... 3.95 5R21 3% x 6L (Replaces PUW211) ...... 17. 95 1 3 5Y20 5h x 6 /4, 2 Hand ...... 7.95 5Y30 51h x 6314, SIS (Replaces 2Y51) ...... 6.95 6M02 101/2 L, SIS, Day/Date (Cit. 6100) ...... 8.50 6M12 101/2 L, S/S, Cal. (Cit. 6110) ...... 8.50 Ronda 315 11 1h L, SIS, Date ...... 6.50 715 101h L, SIS, Date ...... 9.50 1 3 751E 5h x 6 / 4 L, 2 Hand (Rep I. for 978.002) ...... 12.95 752 51/2 x 6314L, 2 Hand ...... 7. 50 3 762n63 6 / 4 x 8L, Reg. or S/5 ...... 4.95

LED Keychain Lights Receive two with every six movements purchased! HoROLOGICAL,. HoROLOGICALTM TIMES Official Publication of the American Watchmakers-Ciockmakers Institute TIMES EDITORIAL & EXECUTIVE OFFICES VOLUME 29, NUMBER 4, APRIL 2005 American Watchmakers-Ciockmakers Institute IAWCI) 701 Enterprise Drive, Harrison, OH 45030 Phone: Toll Free 1-866-367-2924 or 1513) 367-9800 FEATURE ARTICLES Fax: (513) 367-1414 8 Roger W. Smith Series 2, By Curtis D. Thomson E-mail: [email protected] Web Site: www.awci.com Another Handcrafted Masterpiece Office Hours: Monday-Friday 8:00AM to 5:00PM (EST) 20 Certification Central, By Dr. Vince Schrader Closed National Holidays Relationships, Objectivity, and Subjectivity- The Path to Fairness Donna K. Baas: Managing Editor, Advertising Manager 26 Katherine J. Ortt: Associate Editor, Layout/Design Associate ETA Swissl@b After Sales Service CO-ROMs By Chip Lim James E. Lubic, CMW: Executive Director Education &Technical Director 32 The Atmos Clock Winding System Lucy Fuleki: Assistant Executive Director By Edwin U. Sowers Ill Thomas J. Pack, CPA: Finance Director Laurie Penman: Clock Instructor 42 Making a Micrometer Adjusted Height Comparator Nancy L. Wellmann: Education Coordinator By Laurie Penman Sharon McManus: Membership Coordinator Mary Huff: Shipping Coordinator Heather Weaver: ReceptionisVSecretary Jim Meyer: IS Director DEPARTMENTS 2 President's Message, By Jim Door HOROLOGICAL nMES ADVISORY COMMITTEE James Sadilek: Chairman 2 Executive Director's Message, By James E. Lubic Chip Lim, CMW, CMC, CMEW 4 Robert D. Porter, CMW Questions & Answers, By David A. Christianson Manuel Yazijian, CMW 6 Ask Huck, By J. M. Huckabee E-mail: [email protected] 11 Letters to the Editor AWCI OFFICERS Jim Door: President 30 From the Workshop, By Jack Kurdzionak Dennis Warner: Vice President 37 AWCI Material Search Alice B. Carpenter, CMW, CMEW, FA WI: Secretary Mark Butterworth: Treasurer 41 Bulletin Board 50 AWCI DIRECTORS Affiliate Chapter Report, By Glenn D. Gardner Mark Baker, CMW 51 AWCI New Members Gerald Jaeger, CMW, CMC, CMEW, FA WI Joseph Juaire 52 Classified Advertising James Sadilek 56 Advertisers' Index James K. Zimmerman, CMW, CMC, CMEW Glenn D. Gardner, CMW: Affiliate Chapter Director 56 AWCI Employee Directory Doug Thompson, CW, CEWT: Research &Education Council Director Willem Van Kempen: Industry Advisory Board Director

IMMEDIATE PAST PRESIDENT EDUCATION Jack Kurdzionak, CW 18 AWCI Certification, Certified Exam FELLOW 40 AWCI Home Study Course in Clock Repair American Watchmakers-Ciockmakers Institute Robert F. Bishop James H. Broughton ·Harold J. Herman Fred S. Burckhardt J.M. Huckabee SPECIAL INTEREST Alice B. Carpenter Gerald G. Jaeger 12 Treasurer's Report, By Mark Butterworth David A. Christianson Benjamin Matz George Daniels Robert A. Nelson 14 Meet the Candidates 2005 Wes Door ·Hamilton E. Pease •Henry B. Fried Archie B. Perkins 24 AWCI New Web Site Josephine F. Hagans William 0. Smith, Jr. 25 AWCI Career Center Available at www.awci.com •Orville R. Hagans Milton C. Stevens Ewell D. Hartman ·Marvin E. Whitney 46 Don't Miss the Mississippi, AWCI's 45th Annual Meeting 'Deceased Reprinting and reproduction is prohibned wnhout written permission from the American Walchmakeroelockmake" lrotitute. Copyright @2005 by llle American Walchrnalce!s-Oocbnake!s lnstitJte.

HOROLOG/CAL nMES (ISSNO 145-9546) is published monlll~ and copyrighted by llle American Watchmake!S-Ciockmake" Institute, 701 Enterprise Drive, Harrison, OH 45030-1696. Subscription price COVER for llle public is $79 110 per year ($6.50 per oopy). Membe" subscription is $35.110 which is included This month's cover features the wnh annual dues of $79110. Periodicals postege paid at Hanison, OH 450lJ and additional entries. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to /IOROLOG/CAL TIMES, 701 Enlelprise Drive, Harrison, OH Roger W. Smith Series 2 President's Message Jim Door Here in the Northern Hemisphere is upon us. What does Spring conjure up in your mind? Are your first thoughts of mainsprings and hairsprings? Or is it the dreaded thought of "Spring cleaning"?

For centuries Spring has been a time to celebrate new beginnings and new life. It is therefore appropriate that we take some time to re-evaluate ourselves. In January we may have made resolutions, now we should be honest with ourselves. Are we following those resolutions or have we let them slide? If they were unrea­ sonable goals then let us now set new goals, if we didn't even try to meet those goals then let us begin anew.

There are several traits that I have found among most watchmakers and clockmakers I have met. The first is creativity, rare is the horologist who has not created or modified a tool or a part to solve a repair problem. The second is the tendency not to throw anything away. We are pack rats. Why do we hang onto broken parts and tools or used and rusted movements? What use is a defective circuit board; can I possibly repair it? No. What about that pile of old clicks and worn out click wheels? They are worn beyond repair, so why keep them? We know that deep down the minute we dispose of the same we will find some use for these items. So we clutter up our workplaces making it at times hard to find the parts we do need.

This is a good time to look at your equipment. If you have a busy shop you may not always clean up your lathe fully after each use. Give it a thorough cleaning now and try to set a schedule for the rest of the year to do the same. Perhaps some equipment is nearing the end of its useful life or needs servicing. Do it now before it stops entirely. That will always happen when you are in the midst of a rush job.

I have begun my "Spring cleaning". I have thrown away a number of items including those old circuit boards and worn out clicks, also rusted screws, and other parts. I have been boxing up the potentially good parts and labeling the boxes and reorganizing the new and old parts. I now spend less time searching for parts. I still have a ways to go. It is hard to give up the old habits but I am determined. I hope you will be successful in obtaining your goals. Executive Director's Message James E. Lubic, CMW Our hard work in designing and establishing new watchmaker certification standards, with the help of industry partners, has paid off. Following is the initial schedule of A WCI Certified Watchmaker Certi­ fication Examinations. Additional dates may be offered as we move forward, depending on demand. May 23 - 26 CW Certification Exam Administered Harrison, OH June 20-23 CW Certification Exam Administered Seattle, WA Oct 17-20 CW Certification Exam Administered Okmulgee, OK

Watchmakers who pass the new A WCI Certified Watchmaker Exam can expect to be highly regarded and recognized nation­ wide. This will be the new standard that various members of the watch and jewelry industry seek in the future when deciding to do business with a watchmaker. Companies such as Rolex USA, for example, have already indicated that the new A WCI Watch­ maker Certification will be one of the critical qualifying prerequisites for opening any new spare parts accounts. Watchmakers who currently have a Rolex spare parts account may, eventually, also be required to obtain the A WCI Watchmaker Certification. We fully expect other industry members to follow this trend as we move forward. We will keep our members informed of these changes and updates as they are being implemented.

We now have a new web site. The new web site address is www.awci.com. The old address www.awi-net.org will be functional for a time and will be directed to the new address. You can read more about the details of this new site on page 24 of this issue. I would like to thank the members of the Technology Committee, Manuel Y azijian, Ray Cherry, and Matthew Clark for the time and effort that they put into this project. Their input was invaluable. Thanks to Ron Price too.

Thanks to Chuck Berthiaume, President of the Lititz Watch Technicum and Senior Vice President of Service, Rolex USA, for providing us with a DVD that they produced to help recruit future watchmakers. We all know how important this is to our profession. The DVD is professionally produced and gives some insight as to what it takes to be a professional watchmaker, and the type of environment one can expect to work in.

When you have an opportunity to check out the new web site, be sure to view the video regarding "A Career In Watchmaking". As I have mentioned in the past, we need you to help us expand the educational content on the new web site. If you have a digital camera and a computer you could put together a presentation regarding a tip that you may use, or even a full blown presentation on how to do a particular process. The new web site is for you, the member, and you the member can help to expand the content by sharing your knowledge.

2 Horological Times · April 2005 on •

No Limit! Sale ends April 30, 2005!

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Phone: 419-243-3720 800-472-0200 800-537-0343 Wm. S.• McCaw Company Fax:419-243-0321 Since /913 800-245-6481 1722 Madison Avenue [email protected] Toledo, Ohio 43624 Questions & Answers

David Christianson, CMW, CMEW, FA WI Question that your was produced prior to the I have enclosed 2 photos of a that re-numbering in 1900; and of course, after 1894 I would appreciate your identifying, if possible. when your watch's caliber (size) was introduced The only ID that I can see, without taking the and the name "Omega" on the movement was movement apart, is "OMEGA" on the dial and registered. on the back plate. Also on the back plate is the serial #45211331. I believe it is either a 16 or 18 References size, case, open face, stem wind and set. Swiss Timepiece Makers, 1775-1975, Katherine Pritchard; Phoenix Publishing, West Any information that you can give me will be Kennebunk, ME, 1997. more than I now have. Sidney Schroeger The Complete Price Guide to , No. 24; Scarsdale, NY Shugart, Engle & Gilbert; Cooksey Shugart Pub- lications, Cleveland, TN, 2004. 0 Answer The Omega Watch Co. traces its beginnings to 1848 and its founder, Louis Brandt, in La Chaux de Fonds, Switzerland. Louis was a merchant­ maker; i.e., he bought ebauches (rough move­ ments) and component parts from specialized makers and then sent those parts to other work­ shops that assembled and finished them.

The firm's name, Louis Brandt, evolved to Louis Brandt and Fils (when one of his sons joined him) and then to Louis Brandt & Freres when his other sons joined their brother after their father died in 1879.

The name "Omega" wasn't introduced until 1894 by the Brandt brothers. During that same year the Omega caliber "19" was introduced. By this time the brothers were manufacturing their watches "in-house" under one roof, in Bienne instead of La Chaux de Fonds. The caliber "19" was remarkable for its construction, stem wind­ ing and setting mechanism and its modest price. The firm made these in 16/ and 18/size (45- 55 millimeters) and from 15 to 23 jewels.

Your watch represents a basic 15-jewel Omega caliber "19." The late Henry Fried said that Omega numbering records only go back to the year 1900 when they began numbering their watches all over again with serial number 1,000,000. Their production serial numbers reached 29 million by 1970. So with your watch serial numbering in the 45 millions, I would say 4 Horological Times · April 2005 For the Latest in Watchmaker's Tools & Parts .lltn·el visit @www.JulesBorel.com, click on products .Jhn·el

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BG7404 Set of all 3 sizes $ 39.60 Knurled handles with replaceable friction fit end­ pieces. Three tools of different colors, and different end-piece sizes in a plastic box. Overall length is 4.5 inches. By Bergeon of Switzerland. New tool makes the removal of friction type pushers easy. The screw mechanism gives you the power and control Individual tools $ 14.00 each necessary. Includes several sizes of interchangeable pins BG7 404-1 Gray color, endpiece holes sizes .50 & 1.00mm for various pushers. Colorful red anodized with black BG7 404-2 Black, endpiece holes sizes of .80, & 1.50mm knob . From Switzerland. Delivery in early March. RM-M654 $ 69.95 BG7404-3 Red, flat brass & centering plastic end pieces.

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J.M. Huckabee, CMC, FAWI, FBHI

Question Question What is your lathe belt material? How is it I need a bench for clock repairs. What do you spliced? How do you prevent slippage? recommend? What do you use?

Answer Answer I suspect that if you pose this question to every Old ~uc~'s first Law of Probability of lathe you meet, most will admit that they belts ts thts: the more urgent the problem, the do not have the "ideal bench." shorter the delivery schedule and the belt is more apt to slip, break, or tangle. !he watchmaker's bench is not a good choice. It ts too small, and too high. The clockmaker does An elastic belt is deadly poison to your success­ not use high power visual aids and works more full~ the work. This rules out most plastics, un­ comfortable at a lower bench. less tt has a non-elastic center core. Mr. J. E. Coleman called his bench "the 144". Leather belts have good traction, have very little He reported that regardless of bench size, all stretch, and are soft when oil treated. Joints are work was done within one square foot of bench difficult to sew, or cement. A small hook made space, just 144 square inches. from a paper clip works moderately well. These belts are apt to slip on small motor pulleys. Your bench and chair should be sized such that you are comfortable for long hours of work; this For many years, my choice has been leather ts the most important guideline. bootlaces; lightly oiled and spliced with a paper clip wire hook. I use a pair of benches end-to-end with a total length of 8 feet. These are 2 feet wide. Much like For clockmaking, the typical watchmaker's lathe Mr. Coleman, most of my work is done within a motor runs too fast. I use a slow speed motor in space of about 2 x 2 feet. My benches are 34 inches speed ranges from about 1,000-2,500 RPM. My hig?, ~d I sit on a stool that is 24 inches high. motor pulleys are made of wood, pressed onto Thts sutts my body size, and I have no desire to the motor shaft, and turned in placed. A diam­ make a change. eter of an inch and a half is suitable. I do lots of lathe work. Several lathes are used I belt to the largest pulley on the lathe. Spindle each mounted on a borel base, or other speeds above 2,000 RPM are not commonly stand~ alone base. This permits turning the lathe to vari­ needed for clock work. ous positions for work access advantage. I'm pleased with this method, and set the machine I do not use a foot-operated speed control. I aside when not in use. I consider this a reason­ prefer a constant speed motor with a simple on­ able recommendation to my friends. off switch on the lathe base. 0 On the other hand; I recommend you use what­ ever you have, and adapt your work techniques to your tools.

6 Horological Times · April 2005 0 In Need of Genuine OMEGA Parts?...... Look No Further%

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Curtis D. Thomson

Introduction Two years after launching his Series 1 wristwatch, Roger Smith nears completion of his Series 2 prototype. The Se­ ries 1 and 2 wristwatches have great similarities, but are at the same time significantly different. They are alike in their method of construction and guiding philoso­ phy, which is to meet the high standards one expects from an individually handcrafted watch and to put the "making" back into English watchmaking. The differences are found in how the similarities mani­ fest themselves in the Series 2, with changes in shape, quantity and .

Concept movement that embodied his own philosophy and Following the basic philosophy mentioned above, could inspire his own construction. "In my view the Roger wanted to create a movement that any watch­ finest of these movements were the Omega 30mm. maker would be happy to see on their bench. Recol­ They were superbly proportioned and for a produc­ lecting on his days as a repairer he thought of a tion movement there were no short corners in the qual- ity of construction. Because of these qualities, worn components were rare and servicing was a pleasure with the disassembly, and particularly as­ sembly, being simple with the move­ ments virtually falling together."

With the basic framework set, the Se­ ries 2 movement is being fine-tuned and designed completely around the Daniels co-axial escapement to ex­ ploit its benefits yet further. Another point of consideration was the future of the Series 2 movement. The move­ ment will be the base movement for all round RW Smith watches and thus must be constructed in a way to accept further planned complica­ tions, such as an annual calendar and chronograph mechanism. DANIELS Co· AXIAL ESCAPEMENT RW SMITH SERIES 2

8 Horological Times · April 2005 To this end, a significant investment in machinery is being made so this watch can be put into production. And, once realized, the Series 2 will be the first English movement to be produced in the UK in nearly half a century.

Making As with all RW Smith senes watches, Series 2 will be made in­ house, with the exception of gears, jewels, hairspring and mainspring, which will be sourced from high­ quality suppliers in Switzerland. The plates, bridges and cocks will be shaped, frosted and gilded in the English tradition, with gold chatons held in place by heat treated blued screws

Working alongside George Daniels on the Millennium wristwatch project for three years provided Roger with a unique insight into the theory of the escapement, as well as Roger Smith practical experience that demon­ strated the co-axial escapement can more than cope with the rigors of wristwatch life. From that ex­ perience Roger has decided that all future RW Smith watches will be fitted with the Daniels co-axial escapement. To fulfill this desire the necessary equip­ ment has been purchased to al­ low the Daniels co-axial escape­ ment to be fabricated in-house, i.e., the co-axial escape wheels, the lever and the balance.

The Daniels co-axial escape­ ment has taken several forms since its creation. Roger has de­ cided to use George Daniels' original design, which is found in his early pocket watches. This version uses two escape wheels fixed to an arbor (co­ axial), with a standard pinion, as opposed to the later "extra flat" version that is found in later Daniels' watches and as DANIELS CO· AxiAL ESCAPEMENT RW SMITH SERIES 2

April 2005 · Horological Times 9 adopted by Omega. This "extra flat" version uses an condition of the dial and hands can be brought back to extra wheel in the going train that engages a multi-pur­ the condition in which the watch originally left the pose pinion/impulse wheel which sits co-axially on an workshop." arbor with the other escape wheel. The proportions of Daniels' original co-axial design, the movement's The careful selection of proven and available materials construction and lower oscillating frequency should and methods ensures longevity, as any skilled watch­ produce a very stable rate. maker will be able to restore his work to the original vision of the maker. Indeed, properly serviced, a RW While there is a group of watchmakers who make their Smith watch will go indefinitely. own movements, there are only a small handful of watchmakers who not only make their own movements, Details but also fabricate their own cases, dials and hands. Roger The Series 2, unlike Series 1 which was limited to 12 Smith is part of that watches, will be an on going, numbered series. The small handful. movement is still in the prototype phase and will be completed in time for Basel 2005 with the production Following the tradi­ watches expected to leave the workshop towards the tions of eminent end of that year. Potential purchasers will have their makers such as choice of various dials (silver or gold engine turned), Breguet, and the En­ hands (gold or blued steel) and case (yellow, rose or glish makers James white gold) combinations. Fergusson Cole, Jump and George The manually wound, free sprung, 30mm movement is Daniels, he uses en­ housed in a round 37mm case, with a power reserve gine turning to make indicator and engine turned dial, which is signed RW his dials. With a Smith. The Series 2 wristwatch will be presented in a straight line and rose engine, silver or gold is fashioned handcrafted box made by noted English furniture into a dial that has a quality all of its own. That is, the maker and designer, Linley. manner in which the material is removed when engine turning is not only different but is superior in appear­ Orders are now being accepted for the Series 2 watches. ance to those of stamped and milled "engine turned" To secure a specific numbered watch a deposit of dials. The numerals and lettering on the dials are hand £5,000.00 will be required. Once the final development engraved by a specialist. The hands are sawed and filed costs of the unique Daniels co-axial escapement, move­ from either steel or gold, which not only meets an aes­ ment and material costs have been completed and de­ thetic requirement but also a larger philosophical one. termined, the final price will be confirmed and avail­ "These qualities are essential in a watch, particularly if able upon request. At the moment, Series 2 is expected the long term appearance is to be maintained. In 25, 50 to be in the region of £30,000.00 and £35,000.00, or even 100 years time any natural deterioration in the excluding VAT. 0

SUPPORT YOUR LOCAL AFFILIATE CHAPTER For information on forming a new chapter, call 1-866-367-2924, ext. 304

10 Horological Times · April 2005 Letters to the Editor

All letters to the editor must be signed and bear the address and telephone number ofthe writer. Your address and telephone number will not be published without your permission. AWl reserves the right to edit letters for length and content. All letters should be concerning the Institute and!or issues specific to the field of . Please send your letter via: E-mail: [email protected]; Fax (513) 367-1414 or mail to Horological Times, "Letters to the Editor," 701 Enterprise Drive, Harrison, OH 45030-1696.

Dear Editor: His ideas about a watch repairman Now that Mr. Gainey has been given This letter is in response to the let­ earning $65,000 per year is pure fan­ the opportunity to having his 2-page ter by Mr. Gainey, in the January '05 tasy, and should be published in rant published, I hope we have not issue of Horological Times. some get rich quick magazine, not a antagonized all the people who keep respected professional journal. the journal going, and they will keep His comment about "Watch related on doing the great job that the Horo­ stuff," as he calls it, is what this I joined the A WI in 1966, and feel logical Times does. A WCI magazine is and has always that all the great past and present Horst R. Zoller, CMEW, MBHI been about. After all, until recently contributors to this magazine have Saskatoon, Canada it was The American Watchmakers always done an outstanding job. I 0 Institute, hence the articles and prod­ personally have looked forward tore­ ucts related to the watch repair trade. ceiving the journal since joining this orgamzauon.

We look forward to meeting you at the AWCI Convention, August 4-7! New! Buckle Extender Assortments Popular assortments pre-packed for your convenience

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3/05 HT

April 2005 · Horological Times 11 Treasurer's Report

Why AWCI Really Does Matter-A Personal Perspective

Mark Butterworth

By now most of you should have re­ Hamilton factory and had extensive ceived your notice to renew membership knowledge of the various models in ad­ and I hope you have eagerly done so. As dition to assembling this very one! From your Treasurer this year, I would like to this time period, Harry could be one of mention several reasons for renewing. the greatest living authorities on the sub­ First, the annual dues amounts to less ject and gave me a wonderful history as than a cost of a weekly cup of Starbucks well as technical advice on the model and coffee, or the revenue of one basic watch told me it was the best that Hamilton overhaul, or one service call on a grand­ ever made. father clock. Second, I can tell you that the management team and paid staff have The point of this story is that the A WCI been very good stewards of that money is about people. The remarkable part of in operating our organization. Third, we what transpired is not that these con­ have a team of Directors, committee versations were totally out of the ordi­ members, and other volunteers who have nary. The remarkable part is that this is put in a lot of effort and are getting some going on every day of the week, the good results. transfer of experience, knowledge, and information from one person to the Both the Executive Director and Presi­ next, from one generation to the next. dent have done a fine job of communi­ The A WCI is about having an organiza­ cating these happenings to you. I would tion that connects all of us with our pas­ just like to add a slightly different slant sion for horology and making certain to the story. I had been on the hunt for that all of this gets passed to the next a graduation watch and received some generation. It also provides a platform very good information on the technical for manufacturers, retailers, wholesalers, aspects of certain models from Alice and crafts persons to dialogue and work Carpenter and Dennis Warner. Shortly together to make it a profitable enterprise thereafter a nice example of a vintage for all of us. Benjamin Franklin once stated Hamilton came up for auction. I was in­ at the time of the revolution "either we terested as my family had always been a hang together or assuredly we shall all hang Hamilton family and I had received one separately." It is still true today in a busi­ for my own graduation. There were less ness sense. than 2 4 hours left on the bidding and I called Dennis and Alice on this specific If you did not renew, or you know some­ caliber and possible valuation ideas. Both one who is not a member, get on board. were very helpful, but Dennis suggested Not to do so is a disservice to yourself I call another member and old friend of and the future of our business. Please his Harry Wysong. Harry worked in the renew today! 0

12 Horological Times · April 2005 AWCI Member Websites

• Have you always wanted a website for your business, or are you unhappy with your current website? • Do you feel that your business needs more exposure to your customers? • Do you want a website, but don't know where to start, and assume it would be a costly venture? • Do you just not have the time to mess with it? Go to awci.companysitecreator.com AWCI and Companysitecreator have worked together to offer an opportunity to all members!

It literally takes just a few minutes to build your new site in 5 simple steps from start to finish.

Two packages are offered ($8.95 per month or $18.95 per month), and you are able to see your site before you decide to purchase.

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April 2005 · Horological Times 13 MEET THE CANDIDATES 2005

Welcome to "Meet the Candidates 2005." This feature was suggested by the 2003 Nominating Committee for the Board of Directors. Meet the Candidates gives each candidate the opportunity to introduce themselves to the A WCI membership prior to the annual mailing of the election brochure and ballot. This year there are 7 candidates vying for a seat on the A WCI Board of Directors. Candidates are listed in a randomly selected order. Three directors will be elected, each for a three-year term. The three who receive the most votes will join the current A WCI Board members during the annual A WCI Board of Directors meeting in August.

During the month of May, ballots and a background sketch of each candidate will be mailed to all A WCI members eligible to vote. The election mailing will also contain each candidate's response to a question posed by the Nominat­ ing Committee.

A ballot return envelope will also be included in the mailing. The envelope will be addressed to the Certified Public Accountant who is responsible for counting the votes and certifying the outcome of the election. All ballots returned must be in the ballot return envelope and postmarked on or before the deadline date published in the voting instruc­ tions. Only marked ballots should be sent to the Certified Public Accountant. Please do not include any notes or requests for information.

Matt Henning, CW

Some of you may recognize my name from the A Wimatters message board. I tend to be a little outspoken about certain issues. I am relatively new to the trade. I joined A WCI in 1998. I completed a year of training at A WCI's Academy and earned my CW in 2001. I've read the lists of past accomplish­ ments usually presented here. I offer none. I believe it is more valuable to tell you what I think. In brief, I believe that A WCI has become fundamen­ tally weak.

Theoretically, the officers of this organization are supposed to monitor the overall industry; advise and receive guidance from us, and respond on our behalf with authority. In reality, the officers don't have that authority because we as members withhold it. Any organization is only as strong as the ability, and willingness of each and every member to work as a group. Often it seems that A WCI is thought of as "they"-a group of people at headquarters who are supposed to solve our problems. That simply is not true, and it cuts right to the foundation of the Institute. This situation has developed from years of apathy, inaction, miscommunication and market forces. No one is to blame, and that truly doesn't matter. What matters is the future. What matters is that we recognize that WE, my friends, are A WCI.

We must all work to regain an overall respect for our trade. While providing honest value to our customers, we must work incrementally toward charging the fair price that our skills deserve. We must also focus on implement­ ing the Certification programs and support them with comprehensive practical training to continue to improve our skills. We must first respect ourselves, and also prove that we hold ourselves to a higher standard before we can demand respect from others.

14 Horological Times · April 2005 Jon W. Horton, CMW

Self employed for 33 years in the Service Industry, Jon W. Horton has always been a technoid. Obsessed with passion for mechanical things, he graduated High School and began his schooling to become an architect. Horton had to work his way through college and after completing the course work to become a Civil Engineer, realized that he was making more money working his way through college than he would make as an architect! What followed was four more years of college in Business Administration. Horton ran a very successful Auto Collision Center for nearly 20 years before his hobby and passion for watches became his full time career.

First working for free by day as an apprentice on his home Island of Maui for two years and then working for five more years after the death of his master, Horton decided that the Island did not offer the kind of teaching he needed to advance in his "new" career so the decision was made to move the whole family to Oklahoma in 1992 to study complicated watch repair with Mr. Wit Jarachowski at OSU/Okmulgee. Horton completed the two years of course work with honors and took the A WI/CMW test while he was still at OSU. He passed and also received the Dick Lange Award from the Ohio Valley Watchmakers Association for receiving the highest score on the test in 1994.

Since completing the Watch Program at OSU/Okmulgee, Horton has continued to operate an independent repair shop in Tulsa, Oklahoma where he and his wife homeschool the last 4 of their 6 children. Horton specializes in all phases of the management of investment grade watch collections for a few international clients. Acquiring, restor­ ing, maintaining and divesting of investment grade watches is Horton's passion.

James Sadilek This is my bid for a second and likely last term (at age 68) as an AWCI Director. Entering my second year as Horological Times Committee Chair, I will continue to serve at the pleasure of the Board.

Perhaps the most serious challenge facing the A WCI is the declining mem­ bership. Demographics play a significant part in the decline, and they are beyond our control with the obviously unavoidable losses to retirement and death. The A WCI leadership has several proposals in various stages of development, which may attract new members. These proposals need rapid deployment lest our numbers drop below that necessary to maintain the current level of operation.

Two new certifications-the Certified Watchmaker program, which has been developed with Swiss Industry collaboration and will perhaps alleviate the restrictive parts policies, and the Watch Technician Certification program, which proposes to train thousands of retail personnel to correctly change cells and possibly perform minor repairs. The CW program may attract professional watchmakers who are not currently members. The WT program certification bears the promise of bringing large numbers of members to the organization.

Knowing the HT magazine is the most popular membership benefit; the Horological Times Committee strives for continued improvement. The committee has recommended an increase in the HT budget to attract professional writers from outside the organization, as well as encouraging more members to contribute to the magazine. The increased budget decision lies in the hands of the Finance Committee and requires Board approval.

These proposals may turn the tide of membership losses, but they must be implemented quickly. In the past, the A WCI has depended most heavily on volunteer labor to develop new programs. This may be the time for substan­ tial deficit spending in order to hire the needed work to ensure the continued health of the organization.

April 2005 · Horological Times 15 Dennis Warner Life so far has been an interesting trip. My journey has taken me from Maryland to Missouri and has ended up in Texas.

I was raised in northeast Maryland where I lived for the first 46 years of my life with a brief excursion to Lancaster, P A where I received my earliest training in Watchmaking at Bowman Technical School. I have managed a fine chain jewelry store, a lapidary shop, a watch trade shop and finally my own jewelry, watch and clock shop.

When my three children had grown up, my wife, Ruth and I decided to make a move to Springfield, MO where we had visited and saw an opportunity for a new Can you identify timepiece? adventure. We spent 8 years there where I ran a watch trade shop doing work for Hint (1492) jewelry stores.

In 1999 I realized that trade work was not opening doors to the finer watch brands that I desire to work on. After checking several jewelers who advertised in HT, I contacted Jim Lubic who put me in touch with Russell Korman Jewelers in Austin, TX. After seeing the watch lines that they carried and our mutual needs I accepted the position as their watchmaker. The training I have received on brands from the Swatch Group, the Richemont Group, Tag Heuer and Breitling would not have been available in a one-person shop.

I love my involvement with watchmaking. The pleasure derived from repairing a fine timepiece, seeing the enthusi­ asm of the students I instruct or meet at the schools, and the involvement I have with A WI, A WCI, NAWCC, local chapters and the Chronometer Club cannot be expressed. The long lasting and new friendships of novice and professional horologists continue to be a pleasure.

The motto I live by: Believe to Achieve

Gene Bertram, CC

My name is Gene Bertram. I have been a clockmaker for about 15 years. Most of that time has been spent working on my own in my home-based business. Re­ cently, I decided to join up with another long-time A WCI member, Robert Good, and went to work for his company, Clockmaster. I have a great deal of experience in retail, having managed both Radio Shack and Walden Books stores. I've also run my own clock repair and woodworking businesses. I've had board experience with the Metro-St. Louis Watchmakers Association and the Ethical Society of St. Louis, having served in several capacities, including president of both organizations. A life member of A WCI and a Certified Clockmaker, I've served as the Parliamentarian as well as on several committees, including finance, membership, & Constitution & Bylaws, which I currently chair. I'm also the vice-chair of the Affiliate Chapters. Attending a number of A WCI's classes and Annual Meetings has broadened both my skills and my circle of friends.

I think A WCI can and should do more to help the person working at the bench, while encouraging the hobbyist to improve their skills. Jim Lubic and many of the past Board Presidents have been working to raise the visibility and prestige of the organization within the industry, in part to help with problems like spare parts. At the same time, I realize the Institute's limitations and how much it depends on us helping, not just griping. Many members have given a great deal of their time and talents over the years, and I'd like to continue contributing what talents I have to improve this organization.

16 Horological Times · April 2005 Roland (Ron) Iverson, CMC

As we make our way through our early years gaining education and experience we soon realize the necessity of choosing a career path. Hopefully one that not only meets our financial needs but is also enjoyable, challenging and rewarding. I was fortunate enough to find just such a path in Horology. I have been profes­ sionally engaged as a Clockmaker and Watchmaker for over 26 years, and have found it to be a very rewarding and gratifying career.

A friend and former co-worker David G. Arnold introduced me to the trade in 1977 and I began a five-year apprenticeship at that time. Four years of this at a large retail clock store and the final year in partnership with Mr. Arnold and two other co-workers as Elgin Clock Repair. I com­ pleted my apprenticeship and passed my CMC exam in 1981. The following year my current partner Jim LaChapelle and myself opened our first store. We currently have two retail stores in the Chicago area, one store in South Elgin that houses our repair shop (pictured), and the other in nearby Naperville.

Throughout my career I have recognized the benefits of membership in A WCI. The educational and informational resources have been of great value to me as well as the benefits of A WI certification as a benchmark my customers can appreciate. I have served as a bench course instructor for A WCI since 1985 and as such have enjoyed the opportunity to meet many fine craftsmen across the nation and to pass along some of the knowledge I have gained as well as being enriched myself by the interaction with my peers. I hope to continue to serve A WCI and its membership in the future ...... • ...... • • • SNAP BACK CASE OPENER ~, • • • • Stock# 3C-118 • • ("~ • • • • ~% • ql~ • • • ~~ • Q' • • • • • • ~ • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • www.newallmfg.com • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • April2005 Horological Times 17 AWCI CERTIFICATION Certified Watchmaker Exam

The A WCI Education Committee has been working Essential Knowledges diligently to develop a certification p:ogr~m which will 1. Principles of modern casing address rhe rapidly changing horol_o_gtc~ fteld. T~e ~ew Certified Watchmakers (CW) cemftcanon exanunat10n 2. Physics of the modern balance and hairspring is now ready. You, as an AWCI member, have an_op­ portunity to gain credentials which will b~ recogruzed 3. and metal treatments for hardness/ a meeting the standards set by the watch mdu try for temper, awareness of new alloys the 2P' century. 4. Principles of quartz and electronic component The information listed below will give you an idea of timepteces what the CW exam involves and where and when the first exams are to be offered. For a copy of the Stan­ 5. Basic wheel and gearing mathematics and train dards and Practices document log on to www.awc.i.com calculations and click on the Certification page, or contact Nancy Wellmann Education Coordillator nwellmann@awi­ 6. Physics of power transmission net.org or (866) 367-2924, ext. 303. 7. Knowledge of the modern jeweled lever AWCI is proud tO offer its member hip a certification escapement that will de ignate them as "AWCI Certified", a desig­ nation which will be recognized throughout the na­ 8. Gearing and depthing tion-a de ignation which will represent inte2Tity, pro­ fessionalism and quality workmanship. 9. Bearing materials and tolerances Certified Watchmaker (CW) 10. Twenty-first century tools, materials and Standard of performance: A Certified 21" Century their use Watchmaker (CW) services primarily watches of mod­ ern and recent production including all modern elec­ 11. Principles of modern lubrication, including: tronic, e.g., quartz, mechanical, e.g., auto-wind and/or a. Viscosity mechanical chronographs, according to manufacturer b. Capillary movement of lubricants specified service procedures and requirements. He/She c. Static vs. dynamic friction is also capable of making basic components, e.g., taf~ d. Causes of lubricant breakdown and tern and is able tO modify replacement parts m. e. Effects of over-lubricating versus order to fit them into a movement or watch. He/She under-lubricating must ascribe to all of the standards and practices out­ lined in the AWCI code of ethics. 12. Types of lubricants and their application

The 21 n Century Watchmaker, in the performance of 13. Chronograph mechanisms and the function of his or her horologicaJ skills and knowledge, meet or components exceeds all industry requirementS for repair and parts replacement, meets technical specificati.o~s, den:on­ strates the highest standard of workmanship as stipu­ lated by A WCI.

18 Horological Times · April 2005 Essential Dispositions Examiners. These examinations will require problem The Certified Watchmaker (CW), in adhering to solving, analysis, and knowledge of professional no­ A WCI Professional Standards and Practices, demon­ menclature. The question format will generally be strates the following: "s hort answer " or essay-sty1 e responses, or computa- tional. Questions may combine numerous assessment 1. Strong commitment to systematic shop practices formats (multipart).

2. Maintenance of a clean and professional work Sample Assessment Tasks environment a. The first task will require complete service of a quartz watch (e.g. ETA 955.112 with E.O.L. and A.S.S.) 3. Consideration of safety and environmental and meet all technical protocols required in technical concerns, toxic solutions and compounds, their literature. handling and disposal b. The second task will require complete service of automatic wind watch (i.e. ETA 2824-2) including cor­ 4. Adherence to a professional (AWCI) Code of rection of assessor inflicted defects (e.g adjusting Ethics endshake, straightening wheels, adjusting escapement, adjusting hairspring error in either flat or round or 5. Willingness to document and warranty both). professional services c. The third task will require complete service of chro­ 6. Commitment to advancement of professional nograph (e.g. Lemania 1873 or ETA 7760) including knowledge adjustment of chronograph functions which have been misadjusted. 7. Commitment to professional standards, quality horological education, and continual growth of d. The fourth task will require candidates to perform professional knowledge a micromechanical procedure. This may involve simple turning, cutting, or polishing of metal. Or, it may re­ 8. Commitment to investment in brand-specific quire a common repair procedure with a balance staff training as offered by industry, manufacturers, and or stem using a standard watchmaker's lathe and will AWCI demand micro-measurement skills as a part of the performance task. Written Assessments Cost Certified Watchmaker (CW) 20 to 25 questions $1,150 To be answered in 3 or 4 hours at approved examina­ tion sites, and proctored by an agent of the Board of

AWCI Certified Watchmaker Exams

Date Exam Location

May 23-26 CW Certification Exam Harrison, OH

June 20-23 CW Certification Exam Seattle, WA

Oct 17-20 CW Certification Exam Okmulgee, OK

April 2005 · Horological Times 19 Certification Central

Relationships, Objectivity, and Subjectivity- The Path to Fairness

Dr. Vince Schrader, CMW

Thirty something years ago, when I was watch, glass, water and all, to me first thing supporting two families at the watch bench, in the morning." I received a frantic call near closing time. It seems one of our old and faithful custom­ There was more than a pregnant pause on ers, who had recently lost her husband, was the other end of the line. Finally she said, on the line and sounded desperate. "Oh, "Are you sure?" dear, Mr. Schrader, whatever can I do?" "Yes, ma'am," I answered. "We do not want Trying hard to calm her I managed to ex­ your watch to dry out overnight, because it tract the following information from her. has steel in it and some steel corrodes very Her husband had given her a beautiful dia­ quickly. Leave it in the water, and that will mond cased Bulova ladies' dress watch slow any oxidation that might occur." AND she had just run it through the wash­ ing machine. I asked her if it had made a After a few more minutes of coaxing, I got trip through the dryer, too, and she said her to agree as I asked. And with that, I "no," but it was still full of water, because closed the shop and went home, wondering she could see it under the crystal. what adventure the next day would bring.

I asked her to bring the watch to me imme­ The following morning, at 9:05 a.m., I saw a diately, assuring her that I could dry it out, car pull up in front of our store, and there and clean it properly, relubricate it, and was my little lady, coming up the walk, with prove nothing else was broken; her watch both hands cupped about a container that should be fine. she was carrying as if it were Christ's Chal­ ice. I slipped around the counter to open the "But, but .... ,"she sputtered, "I can't get into door for her, and she eased in, a worried but town today. I don't have transportation till beaming smile on her face. morning." I offered to come and get her watch. (We made house calls in those days.) Returning to my side of the counter I stared This was unworkable also. She had a big as she placed the glass container on the church function to attend, and she was the countertop. coordinator. There was something strange about it. "Well," I said, frustrated, "when can you get the watch to me?" Looking directly down into the water, I saw three ladies' watches. "Ma'am," I said, "I "First thing in the morning," she answered. thought you just ran one watch through the washing machine." "Fine," I replied. "Here's what I want you to do. Get a glass of clean tap water, and "Oh, yes," she said, "But the others need re­ drop your watch into it, very carefully. pairing, too, so I just brought them along!" Leave it this way overnight, and bring the

20 Horological Times · April 2005 I tell this story, not only because I'm very fond of it, watchmakers in performance scenarios, without being but also because it illustrates a point perfectly. People overly "subjective." routinely take our words on faith, even blind faith, as experts in what we do. And why would they not. If my It was at this point that I thought about my little old doctor tells me I have an occlusion in my right tempo­ lady, and shook my head. (I hope my colleague didn't ral brain lobe that's causing my big toe to point side­ notice.) My client had made an assumption about what ways, I'll probably believe him. He's trained, certified, I had told her and then, as humans will do, took a leap and should know what he's talking about. That certifi­ in her own cognitive way and associated my repair pro­ cate on the wall tells me that. cess with dunking watches in water. It really wasn't such a stupid thing to do, after all. She trusted me. And There's a message about ethics here, but we'll save that she did what she thought was logical, so, too, with my for a later column. My point with this writing is that as colleague. For years he has taken examinations, and practitioners who quickly latch on to the term "horol­ perhaps has even conducted examinations of others ogy" because it speaks to the science of what we do, I himself, assuming that what he was doing is correct believe we have an obligation to really know this sci­ and proper, because it's the way he's been taught, and ence and to apply scientific principles to everything that he trusts the history, tradition, and reputations of those we do, whether it be repairing a timepiece, or assessing who have been his mentors. This is really not unusual. a prospective certified watchmaker. Anyone who has been through some form of school­ ing has been assessed to a greater or lesser degree, and And there's that word again-"assessing." we tend to naturally assume we know something about it, given we've all done it. I recently had a brief discussion with a colleague who has had considerable schooling, both Swiss and Ameri­ But what my colleague and the rest of us usually do can and has no doubt been subject to a very large num­ not understand, unfortunately, is that good assessment ber of intensive written and performance examinations. is not a simple process. When you have a field of knowl­ He expressed the strong opinion that we couldn't test edge about which people are interested, it will usually

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April 2005 · Horological Times 21 lead to forms of inquiry that begin with real observa­ been perfect but it's got a rotten spot, which means if tions, experiences, and ultimately a number of subjec­ we use it right away, it won't go to waste." tive and objective observations. Usually questions emerge as well, especially when there are unknowns. Well, you get the idea. Thus, some topics bear considerable fruit, or prove very interesting, and lead to a substantial body of discus­ Switch gears now to a timepiece. You are looking at sion. If the issues, which emerge, are important enough, the finished dial, crystal and case of a watch that has these may actually be subjected to what is known as just come from a student who has been under your in­ "empirical" inquiry. If this doesn't happen, topics may struction. At first glance, everything looks pretty good. be bandied about, gossiped about, and turned into folk­ And it would fool most people. But you're an experi­ lore or even lies, and no one ever gains a real under­ enced watchmaker, so you knowingly turn your Ioupe standing of the answers to the significant questions. to the dial and lo and behold you find a speck of dust near the calendar window .... Oops! Not perfect (black On the other hand, these "subjective" issues might be dial!. .. even worse). Looking further, you can see that subjected to scientific inquiry through the "scientific if you hold the crystal just right, there's a fingerprint method," the structured form of thinking (hypothesis on the underside of the glass. Wow. Good thing you're testing) which has advanced the world of knowledge an expert! The customer might not have ever seen this, to the point it is today, and it has truly advanced. Of but some of those sneaky dudes DO get out their mag­ course, you may not like the Internet, or the incredible nifiers and look from time to time, so you've made a information-laden environment we live in today, but good catch. chances are if someone comes up with some "Nanites" to submarine into your heart occlusion and eradicate Well, now this watch isn't looking so good, and we it, you won't feel quite so bad about science. don't even know if it tells time yet. So, you pull out the stem ... you get a firm click and the hands begin to turn. One of the things we have learned about the human But what's this? When you put the hands at twelve brain over the past several decades is that humans have o'clock and wait for the sweep to pass you find, look­ the ability to discriminate very well among choices ing from an angle that the hands are not neatly parallel, when asked to subdivide into about seven categories. that minute, second, and sweep, almost converge at the Some do better with more, but thus far we've found tips. In fact, it's a distinct possibility that with one bump that if asked to decide among a series of choices on a from the customer, one of the hands is going to end up scale, we do best if we can differentiate among about dragging on the other. seven groupings. Five groupings may be too few, and ten do not enough extra information to be mean­ Well, we've gone from "pretty good" to "barely work­ ingful or practical. able." One more close look and you find a tiny sliver of lint caught on the calendar window. Now this be­ Example: Someone gives you a bushel full of apples comes a real problem, because you know that the time­ and asks you to divide them into groups according to piece is a "comeback" waiting to happen. several attributes ... size, appearance, taste, color, overall appeal, roundness or shape, etc. If you are like most "Not out of MY shop," you say. people and you are given a group of apples to judge, or discriminate among, you'll probably end up with seven But suppose, instead of your workplace, you have just groups. You'll have "perfect" and "rotten or terrible" been named an official A WCI assessor. According to (two groups) and you have "almost perfect" and "barely the judgments and the rules you just almost intuitively usable" (two more groups) then you'll have "ok," "al­ applied above, you have pretty effectively disqualified most but not quite ok," and "pretty good, but not be­ a timepiece. AND you haven't even opened the watch longing in the top tier." case yet to look at the movement. Now, I ask, how "subjective" have you been? What we have done when we've engaged in this activ­ ity is what measurement specialists refer to as estab­ This is the way we all have worked for years. Our ex­ lishing a "scoring rubric." Somewhere, somehow, our pert judgment guides us. Many of us have become so minds establish a fairly sensible set of rules for dis­ practiced at what we do, that we no longer think of the criminating among these apple groups. ''This one would "rules." They have been integrated into our work ethic be perfect, but it's got just one spot, so that will make and methods to the point of being virtually intuitive, and it a six instead of a seven. Or, this apple could have this system that functions very well for most of us.

22 Horological Times · April 2005 It is also at this point that the pronouncement or in­ nature and loses all capillarity), then we will have to troduction of the word "subjective" is most easy. Few rethink how we look at lubrication when we examine of us have ever been asked to actually articulate our watchmakers. The bottom line, however, is that we "rules," or "judgments," in plain English. This is not a must simply remain vigilant to technological change, unique situation for our profession. In recent years as­ continue to communicate reciprocally with industry, sessment experts have learned that in every endeavor and make certain that we reflect modernity in our mea­ where systematic measures must be taken to accom­ surement of candidate ability. By doing so, we will guar­ plish a task successfully, these rules do exist in virtu­ antee that our certificate recipients are up to the tasks ally every situation. And articulating them actually re­ placed before them, and A WCI remains the standard moves the subjectivity from the tasks we formerly bearer in horology. thought were somehow just "common sense."

If you put a journeyman and a beginner in the same There's nothing about science that doesn't have some­ room and begin to detail the performances of a given thing to do with relationships. task, you will find the beginner (providing he/she isn't 0 intimidated or afraid of appearing stupid) will ask a lot of questions. Usually, also, if this happens the jour­ neyman will become irritated at all of the "stupid" ques­ tions. But what is happening is quite natural. The be­ ginner is asking for a delineation of the rules, of the parameters, of the defining aspects of task performance.

The next step, the one that bridges the gap, is the one where a profession endeavors to articulate its own stan­ dards of performance, and then further refine the basic components or skills and performances, which dem­ onstrate these successfully. When these are known, a true assessment can be built, tailored to the knowledge that has been "captured and defined." ~ Primrose Supplies Inc. ....:::.... 1450 S. Main St.- Salt Lake City, UT 84115 Every component of our new assessment system (at 1-877-296-1025- Fax: 1-877-296-1038 this moment the 21" Century Certified Watchmaker [email protected] assessment) incorporates this thinking. And thus, Tools & Supplies for Jewelers, Watchmakers, Hobbyists & Craftsmen whether we are speaking of the appearance of a dial, the trueness of a hairspring, the amount of oil on a cap Watch Bands Watch Tools jewel well, we can now judge quality by what is known Watch Batteries Swiss Material as a "rubric." Watch Movements Japanese Material Watch Crystals Generic Rolex In general we define a rubric as a set of commonly agreed upon rules usually established by content ex­ Knowledgeable & Friendly Service perts, which enable examiners to discriminate among degrees of quality of performance. All orders received by 3pm Mtn time Ship Same day Our new assessments have rubrics attached to ALL components or tasks assigned to our certification ex­ amination. This is how we remove "subjectivity." Ul­ timately, this is our path to "fairness," for the same rules, or rubrics, are applied to every single candidate, by assessors uniformly trained in their application. Special Offer! Can the rules change? Do the rubrics have "flexible BF Encyclopedia 111 & 111 A $42.50 parameters?" Of course. If someone invents a new lu­ with Purchase of $50 or more* bricant, which cannot possibly crawl one molecule far­ *while supplies last ther than its application point (in other words, defies Primrose Supplies is independent of and is not affiliated with or sponsored by Rolex watch U SA Inc.

April 2005 · Horological Times 23 AWCI New Web Site www.awc1.com•

The American Watchmakers­ • Career Center available for job • Be notified of web site changes Clockmakers Institute's new web search and recruitment site is up and running. Go to • Search HT Archives (archives www.awci.com and check out these • Stay up to date on all the hap­ will expand continuously) new features: penings on the Calendar page • Access Horological Times adver­ • Members-Only section with • Update your Referral Directory tising rates and place an ad member log-in and password re­ record with expanded information quired to access member features • Access to the HTWriter' s Guide • Request to be listed on the • Renew membership and change A WCI Referral Directory and re­ • Direct link to member services: contact information online ceive a member link on the links page Health & Benefits Solutions; (AWCI Referral Directory will cap­ Intercorp Insurance for your inven­ • Shop on line and receive A WCI ture 18,000 searchers/ month) tory and ship and insure discounts; member discount of 10% on books, First National Merchant Solutions videos and merchandise • A WCI Annual Meeting Agenda for credit card processing; and Com­ and Registration on line with a di­ pany Site Creator to develop your • Secure checkout at the A WCI rect link for hotel registration own web site Shopping Cart • Access the A WCI Certification Standards and Practices

American Watchmakers-Ciockmakers Institute AWCJ. is an intemational not-fol'-pn>fit trade association dedicated ta the advancement of horolol)'. HoroloiY is the stu.dy of the art and scieuce of time. The Jnstitu.te provides educational and tedmicalservices for memben and referral services for the &moral pablic. Sffi MAP ..-;;;.;,;;=.....;A,;,;:BOUT HT STORE JOIN LOGIN Find watch ond dock repair stores In your area Careers

AWCI Member In the interest of promoting the profession of BeneFits and Services watchmaking, we offer the following video from Lititz Watch Technicum on teaching the Tbe AWCI Forum on Yahoo (AWl art of Swiss watchmaking. Matters) (This file is 50 miUion bytes. Be sure you are on broadband conncdion before clicking the following link.) MPG Video Download Horoloalcal Times

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News and feature artides in the JOIN US IN MINNEAPOLIS, MINNESOTA watch Industry sponsored by AUGUST 4-7, 2005 Time Zone. Plan to ath!nd the A WCI Annual Meeting at the Sheraton South Bloomin,aton in Minneapolis, 1\oiN

24 Horological Times · April 2005 AWCI Career Center Available at www.awc1.com•

A new feature available on the A WCI web site is the Career Center. This area was constructed to help connect A WCI members with new employment opportunities. Employers and recruiters now will have access to our specialized niche by browsing re­ sumes or posting an employment opportunity. To get started, log on to the A WCI web site: www.awci.com. In the Careers section on the home page click on Career Center. Here you will create an account, receive job alerts, create an on-line Career Profile, view resumes, post jobs, and much more. Read on for more information on this new and exciting addition to the A WCI web site.

Job Seekers

1. The new job board has been designed specifically for A WCI members. Members will find jobs that are specific to them. These are targeted opportunities that cannot be found on Monster or other large job boards. This is a free service.

2. The job board gives job seekers the opportunity to post their resume anonymously. All their information is displayed in their resume except for their name and contact information. Job seekers can divulge as much information in their resume posting as they see fit. This service has the ability to keep active and passive job seekers connected to the employment market while maintaining full control over their confidential information.

3. A Job Alert system notifies job seekers by e-mail of new job opportunities that match their search criteria. This means that job seekers never miss new opportunities and do not have to constantly search the job bank.

4. The service lets you save searches, store jobs in your account, keep notes on job opportunities, communicate with employers using an internal messaging system, and more.

Employers

Employers can post job openings on the A WCI Career Center page and browse resumes by job function, industry and state.

1. Great candidates. By using the A WCI recruitment service, you are given unparalleled access to A WCI's unique membership. Your opportunity will reach a large number of highly qualified passive and active job seekers.

2. Job Broadcasting- When your job is posted on the website, an e-mail broadcast is sent out to all job seekers that asked to be notified of new jobs matching their search criteria. This BetcM:~I'~lcdf~ o ... · o ~ ~ ·;::-~ ; .1 .- ft•-- "'- e 8· ~ ~ .. '4 3 job broadcast gets more people to see your ad and more applications. America11 Watchmakers-Clockmakers lllstitute Cceer Celllel"- Jo• Opportailita 3. Company Profile/Logo in ad-You have the SITE MAP HOME A&OUT SERVICES HT STORE ability to create a free company profile, explain­ CUclr. bere ta find Career Center members or w.m:h ing your organization and the work environ­ end dDCk rep•lr «nffkk «W member$ new employmem oppottumttes Use the stores In YOIQ' ...... n., JI'N'Wn~lfto~ ~h ment in greater detail. This can include your links below 10 g.uide you iiS JIN ~ :roUt,. search Employers and recruiters: Yoo now havE access lo our s~:~eeialized niche Browse our rl!lsumes or post your emplo~menl opportunity , company's logo that will also appear in your

ads. • Post an .-nonymous Resume • View the Resumes Post your ~urn• onh lcdayt Whetheryou're Check ol./l: our resoovs lind ontr pay for !he. ones a~ or passlitWy sealdncJ work, your ooline lttlt 111tet'fst\"Qu! VIle haw access UJ some Ol'ltle 4. Pay-per-Use Resume Bank- You can browse resume Is yo~rtrut to great lob olen~! besl protrnstotuar. In t'le teld_ • Vle.w Jobs ·Port • Job all of the anonymous resumes, before you pay At.uss !he newelll. a nit l'rfshestjobs ava1lab1e to Rtk~ 1M rnotiQOtM!Ird tatM»dtflt'ltliW.J:no prt'lftHionals ueldng emptovmant YOLir job openinG on our ol'lllllrle Career Cenm-. a cent. You will see everything on the resumes, · PenaMI 'ob AIott • Products/Pricirao Create Job AJtrts aM neverl8ta rn11lchlnSI job Regardless of your staoft'ing needs orbuooet. we except for the candidate's name and contact oppOttunit,' pass you b)1 ~ew jobs thll1 mak:h ynur have • recruitment product lhat'S rig hi f0r}1)Ur sta~h crit.ria'd"*'.;l With us toda~ ested in. You only pay if the candidate is also interested in you. April2005 Horological Times 25 ETA Swissl@b After Sales Service CO-ROMs

By Chip Lim, CMW, CMC, CMEW

Photos by Chip Lim

''And the beat goes on, yes the beat goes on ... " (Sonny Programs start automatically at the Menu screen (Fig­ and Cher, 1967) Intended to augment, rather than to ure 1) where English, French, German, Spanish, Dan­ replace the familiar two volume ETA Technical Com­ ish or Italian language options are selected. In addi­ munication Catalogue (the omnipresent 'red books'), tion to the expected disassembly and assembly proce­ the ETA Swissl®b represents the "next generation" in dures, caliber-specific information is also included. In tech guides. This library of five CD-ROM programs the case of the Autoquartz movement, animated offer pc-based interactive or Adobe Acrobat Reader (Macromedia Flash) screens demonstrate the principles portable data file (pdf) instructions which cover step­ of operation (Figure 2, the microbarrel and generator) by-step movement disassembly, assembly, theory of and electrical testing sequences (Figures 3 and 4). Like operation and adjustment/test procedures. Currently all of the demonstrations, these may be replayed as available (one caliber per disc) are the Mecaline Chrono many times as necessary to reinforce subject compre­ 7750, Flatline Autoquartz 205.911, Normflatline hension. The embodiment of familiar ETA tech guide Chrono 251.471, Mecaline 6497-1/-2 and Mecaline Specialite 2892A2. As a side note, it has been learned that during this transitional period ETA is no longer automatically distributing updates to catalogue sub­ scribers. Tech guides may be downloaded from their SWISSL 8 website http://www.eta.ch or requested from A WCI. E Full CD functionality is available from a pc with a

Pentium II 350 MHz or better CPU running Windows After Sales Service 95, 98, NT, 2000/ME or XP operating system, a rec­ ommended display resolution of 1024 x 768 x 16 bit color or better, and of course, a CD-ROM drive. The Documents four percent of the market that operate Apple Macintosh systems are limited to viewing the pdf docu­ ments (with the Adobe reader installed). Total file sizes range from 60 MB for the inaugural 7750 CD intro­ duced in late 2001 to 149MB for the 2892A2 (2004, the most recent offering). All necessary support soft­ ware is contained on each CD. Figure 1

26 Horological Times · April 2005 ETA205 911

Electncal dlarg•ng of the accumulator w.th external supply ..,Place ... meatiJI't!m(lnt bps as rr.-.... Nctnc.lllyc:P\Irged

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Figure 2 Figure 4

ETA2892A2 ETA205.911 I cs no.: 31 .013 Name Canroon Pln•on Wllh dnY11'1g wheel SELECT TEST

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}JMolori!JIPUI$M <-~.. l_R:as.lbnce~molorwJ _ }..~ofmov.mer~t(1S5\' J !J.Rm•&lomceolgene!llbrcod .--·--- ...... _N11M11 ljlntuief'llofct)l ----'- - _,., ii -- menu~ menu~ previous ~ .!J next ...... Figure 3 Figure 5

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April 2005 · Horological Times 27 ETA2892A2 format adapted to computer based training (cbt), Figures 5-9 C'Sno: 32031 illustrate typical screen layout. An average 120 to 160 screens (total) cover complete component by component disassembly and assembly of each movement based on procedures devel­ oped by the ETA engineering and training departments. Af­ ter clicking the corresponding task button on the bottom menu

DO NOT WAS!'< I bar the part effortlessly floats out or in, replete with color­ coded lubrication steps and any pedagogical (a great Scrabble® word if ever there was one!) reminders or warnings. Part Figure 6 nomenclature and numbers are also prominently identified.

ETA2B92A2 "Work harder not smarter. .. " (Or is it t'other way round?) CSna: 31Dil Yes, horologists tend to be gadget junkies. Some special tools are actually worthwhile, if not essential, to properly and effi­ ciently service a movement. In the past, part numbers for said were often hard to find. The Tools pages (Figure 10) provides this information along with visual identification.

....- Those who have conducted training know that "Murphy is alive - .. and well-if anything can go wrong, it will. .. " The Start/Stop/ Figure 7 Reset and Adjustments (Figures 12-13) and How to Use Func­ tions (Figure 14) sections of the 7750 CD allay this aspect of ETA 2B92A2 demonstration anxiety, showing correct and incorrect opera­ tion on a magnified scale (and without the often fiddly macro and lighting equipment). Hmm, could this give rise to an in­ creased number of instructors for Bench Courses or Continu­ ing Education? Following that thought, the pdf Documents _...... _ -- section of all of the Swissl®b CDs contain 'static' versions of :.:--=.... -.:... ,::::.::::·--. disassembly and assembly instructions (Figure 11). Ideal for on-location training, course materials may be printed out upon menu~ previous _jJ !J ~ arrival in the required quantity, dispensing with unnecessary Figure 8 travel 'ballast.'

ETA251 ,471 Whether it is for initial or refresher self-study or an eager class Cl.r~o.: 51.08001 of twelve, ETA Swissl@b CD-ROM discs help to extend the mastery of horological skills and understanding of contempo­ rary movements. Presented in a highly visual form, one of the

~~ " ('' ::i> "1-I:HAflOSI:'TING '.'I •.;tt,\'ol:>l' JN ~I I :HE: greatest strengths is the capability to (tirelessly) repeat dem­ •:ovu.1::.N- 15 A.SSD..IULEV ' onstrations and procedures. Additional calibers to the Swissl®b lineup will be anxiously awaited. It is indeed fortu­ - .. ,_ nate that "I've got you (babe) ... " Figure 9 ·- n·-·- - ..... ·•·- ,.._. IT"""''•• ·Ia '\

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28 Horological Times · April 2005 SWISSL B ETA 7750 STEP 1 I 'VK'r~"; ··· ~ ~-·-~"' --~·.. .. ~ -· · ·~;- 1.-< .. ,, .... ,.,..0o~>· "' ~ ....,..too ... , ... -~ ...... '}.)0. ~.

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Afterwehaverea.dlheumethe t;hronograph i'u!.nds 1re l'ltlufl"'ed to defauh pos1bofl (RESET) : '\ Jo I .:_' .... -_ The ETA Swissl@b CD-ROM programs are available - ,.0 20.. ~ - I '\ , ' The hands return to posi1ion -o· from AWCI: Retail: $124.95 each, AWCI Members: ' Also k.nown as the bASIC pos~borl. $112.46 each. To order call toll free 866-367-2924 ext. 301 or visit A WCI's web site: www.awci.com 0

Figure 14

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April 2005 · Horological Times 29 ETA Seminar Held at AWCI

As a part of A WCI's effort to underscore the training The workshop was fully attended, with participants lin­ of 21st Century Watchmakers, a week-long seminar ing up well in advance. Executive Director Jim Lubic took place in Harrison, March 7 through March 11. indicated "We could have easily taught two classes, had Alessandro Betti, of ETA manufacturing, was the in­ we had sufficient time. Such coursework will enable structor for the course, and offered valuable insights current A WI certified members to upgrade to A WCI to the popular ETA calibers that are now resting on certifications. For those who have not yet acquired benches across the United States. In addition, Betti's A WCI certification, these classes will serve as an inte­ close relationship with ETA made it possible for him gral part of the certification process. There is likely to to share insights of "things to come" as well as "trade be a substantial skills and knowledge crossover between secrets" to enable the workshop participants to learn this type of training and the requirements of new cer­ the latest on ways of dealing current calibers. tification assessments, so members should avail them­ selves of every opportunity to get such training. As the demand is voiced, we will endeavor to schedule training to meet our members' needs."

Such workshops, while not new to the ongoing education and training of A WCI mem­ bers, will continue to be of­ fered this year and next, and if anything, the number of training courses will increase to meet anticipated demand. With the hiring of a new watchmaking instructor and certification facilitator, ser­ vices to the membership will ease the pressures created by this increase.

Alessandro Betti helps Pam Schultz with a repair.

30 Horological Times · April 2005 Members ofthis workshop included (left to right): Vince Schrader, CMW, Arcadia, IN; jim Lubic, A WCI Executive Director; Gilbert Yuen, Pacifica, CA; Ken Kotoski, Belgrade, MT; Peter Pronko, Dexter, MI; Andrew Stephens, Minneapolis, MN; Pam Schultz, Hinckley, MN; Adam Parrish, Kokomo, IN; Alessandro Betti, ETA Instructor; Ron Pfleger, CMC, Fleetwood, PA; Chia Lung Shi, CMW, Doraville, GA; Jim Shannon, St. Paul, MN; Bill Peltzman, St. Paul, MN; and Joe Schrader, CMW, Lafayette, IN.

Instructor Alessandro Betti expressed pleasure at the quality of talent in this group of students. "Ordinarily, I would have expected to take the entire week on the announced curriculum," he said, "but this group moved along so quickly, I was able to work in some 'extra bonuses' in the instruction." Participants themselves were very pleased with the quality of the instruction, and expressed special pleasure to be working so com­ fortably and cooperatively with industry. 0

Pam Schultz works on an ETA movement.

April 2005 · Horological Times 31 The Atmos Clock Winding System

Edwin U. Sowers Ill, CMC, MSME

Reprinted with permission from Clockmakers Newsletter

Copyright 2002 Clockmakers Newsletter

Edwin U. Sowers III is a retired engineering research and development Project Engineer; he holds a Masters Degree in Mechanical Engineering, specializing in machine design, mechanisms, and fluid mechanics. Mr. Sowers also holds a Master Clockmaker Certification by the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute. He is a 25-year member of NAWCC. With more than 25 years of clockmaking experience, he is now engaged full time in restoring both clock movements and clock cases. Mr. Sowers publishes horological articles in the elockmakers Newsletter, the NA wee Bulletin, and the A WCI Horological Times dealing with subjects including the rebuilding of deadbeat pallets, replacement of a 6-tooth wheel seg­ ment, restoration of clock case veneer, and inspection and repair of Atmos clocks.

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Atmos Clock, shown in Figure temperature decrease. It is this phenomenon that makes 1, has been referred to as a perpetual motion clock. Laws the Atmos clock possible. This article defines the com­ of physics demonstrate that this is not really possible. ponents and phenomena involved in the Atmos wind­ However, the Atmos clock does not require manual ing process. It applies directly to the Models 519,526, winding. So, how is it wound? It is wound by a bel­ and 528; the same basic approach applies to other mod­ lows. As is commonly understood, the pressure within els. A helpful source of component definition is pre­ a bellows increases with an increase in temperature, thus sented by the Jaeger-LeCoultre Caliber 528 Repair expanding the bellows; the reverse occurring with a Notes. (Ref. 1). A bellows is contained within the round housing attached to the rear of the movement, shown in Figure 2. It expands and contracts as a consequence of changes in temperature. The acting face of the bel­ lows expands inward toward the movement with in­ creased temperature, and retracts outward with decreas­ ing temperature. Through an arrangement of springs, clicks, wheels, and a chain, which can be seen in the close-up of Figure 3, the temperature induced move­ ments of the bellows are creatively used to wind a small mainspring, which in turn drives the clock. The main­ spring is shown attached to the left side of the great wheel. To the left of the barrel is the mainspring click wheel, and next to it on the left is the chain wheel. A click is located between the mainspring click wheel and the chain wheel. The chain can be seen attached to the chain wheel, which then passes around a pulley and back toward the bellows. The rate of expansion and contraction of the bellows is controlled by a heavy coil spring upon which the bellows presses. The spring is positioned within the center section of the bellows, as depicted in Figure 4, a schematic representation of the Atmos winding system. The movement of the bellows contact surface is on the order of 0.025 inches per de­ gree of temperature change. Changes in atmospheric Figure 1. Atmos clock

32 Horological Times · April 2005 Figure 3. A close-up view of the Atmos winding mechanism.

chain wheel is rotated in a counterclockwise direction Figure 2. Side view of the clock. The bellows housing is indi­ (as depicted by the drawing). The mainspring acts to cated by the arrow. turn the click wheel in a clockwise direction. C 1 is con­ nected to the chain wheel. When the chain wheel ro­ tates counterclockwise, it latches, through C1, onto the pressure also affect the bellows, but this effect is com­ click wheel and drives it counterclockwise. This then, paratively small. This article describes how the Atmos through the mainspring arbor (attached to the click clock harnesses the temperature-induced movements wheel), winds the mainspring. This winding, as will be of the bellows to wind, and to maintain the wound state, discussed later, can only occur when the counterclock­ of the Atmos mainspring. The following will be de­ wise chain wheel torque, generated by the chain, ex­ scribed: 1. The chain wheel/ click wheel mechanism 2. ceeds the clockwise torque imposed on the click wheel Temperature induced action 3. The winding sequence by the mainspring. There is a second click, C2, which 4. Achieving equilibrium 5. Maintaining equilibrium is attached to the movement frame. It permits the click wheel to rotate in a counterclockwise direction only, 1. The Chain Wheel/Click Wheel Mechanism preventing release of the mainspring. The schematic drawing, Figure 4, depicts and defines the components that, together, implement winding of the Atmos clock mainspring. A key component of the winding system i the chain wheel/click wheel assem­ bly. It couples a chain, acted upon by the bellows, to HERMLE • KIENINGER • URGOS the main pring. It i necessary to understand the inter­ H. HERR • REGULA actions between the chain wheel and the click wheel to from comprehend the winding phenomena. The chain, which moves inward and outward through action of the bel­ JSutttrtuortb telo~, Jnt. lows, is attached to the chain wheel. The click wheel is Why repair when you can replace? coupled tO the mainspring, it being fixed to the main­ THE LARGEST MOVEMENT SUPPLY IN THE WORLD spring arbor. The chain wheel is mounted on the main­ FREE PRICE UST: spring arbor, but is not attached to it. Click Cl is the Call toll free: 1-800-258-5418 component that connects the chai.n wheel to the click 5300 59th Ave. W • Muscatine, lA 52761 wheel, and through this connection, the chain to the E-mail: bci@muscanetcom • Web:vvvvw.butterworthclocks.com mainspring. When the chain is pulled to the left, the SAMEDAYSHIPPING • TWO-YEAR WARRANTY Marl

April 2005 · Horological Times 33 bellows u====:7"6:=~ bellows contact surface ATMOS WINDING SYSTEM spring guide chain connected to spring guide chain wheel movement rear plate mainspring mainspring chain ~ torque / clickwheel ~ \\ ~ ~ ~-"' : --+;\--~

bellows control spring mainspring arbor / 52 mm winding spring clickC1 attached to barrel bellows housing chain tension spring

"- (indicates attachment to 1 movement frame)

Figure 4. A drawing of the Atmos winding system.

2. Temperature Induced Action back by the control spring. The bellows contact sur­ Now, consider the series of events that occur when tem­ face moves away from the movement. The compressed perature increases, then decreases. First, observe the winding spring is then permitted by the bellows to move 52 mm winding spring shown in Figure 4. This crucial outward, pulling on the chain. Now if the chain pull­ component is located inside the bellows control spring. ing the chain wheel creates a greater counterclockwise It is compressed between the rear plate of the move­ torque on the click wheel (through click C 1) than the ment and the bellows contact surface. It is this spring clockwise torque imposed by the mainspring, the pull­ which, when it moves outward, supplies the force to ing chain will cause the chain wheel and click wheel to pull the chain outward. When temperature increases, rotate in a counterclockwise direction and will wind the bellows will expand inward towards the movement the mainspring. The winding spring will pull out on rear plate. Depending upon the relative positions of the chain and wind the mainspring to the limit allowed the outer end of the winding spring and the bellows by the bellows contact surface, or until the counter­ contact surface, the bellows will push in upon the wind­ clockwise torque of the chain wheel is matched by the ing spring. Upon the outer end of the winding spring torque imposed by the mainspring, as will be discussed is positioned the spring guide to which the chain is at­ later. tached; it is this spring guide which is contacted by the bellows when it is pushing in on the winding spring. 3. The Winding Sequence Since the bellows, when it expands inward, always ex­ Summarizing from above, the sequence of events that erts a greater force than the resisting force of the wind­ occur when starting out with an unwound, or partially ing spring, the bellows will compress the winding spring wound mainspring, is as follows. As temperature in­ and move it inward. Click C2 holds the click wheel creases and decreases, the bellows moves forward and and mainspring, preventing the mainspring from un­ back, pushing in upon the winding spring then moving winding. The chain tension spring acts to pull on the back out again. When the winding spring is pushed in, chain, keeping it taut, and rotating the chain wheel the chain tension spring rotates the chain wheel and clockwise, moving click C 1 clockwise about the click C1 clockwise about the click wheel; no winding oc­ wheeL There is no winding of the mainspring when the curs. C2 holds the click wheel and the mainspring. As bellows moves inward. It must be noted that, compared the bellows moves out, the winding spring pulls on the to the winding spring, the chain tension spring i very chain, causing counterclockwise rotation of the chain weak. It is effective only when chain tension i over­ wheel and, through C 1, the click wheel, the result be­ come by the bellows pushing in on the winding spring, ing winding of the mainspring. Winding occurs only as when the chain would otherwise slacken. When tem­ the bellows retracts and moves outward. perature decreases, the bellows contracts and is pushed

34 Horological Times · April 2005 4. Achieving Equilibrium moves outward, decreasing its compression and con­ The above sequence will continue with temperature in­ sequently the chain force and the counterclockwise creases and decreases to the point where, as the bel­ torque imposed upon the click wheel. A point is reached lows moves back and allows the winding spring to ex­ where the decreasing winding spring torque and the pand outward, the counterclockwise chain wheel torque increasing mainspring torque become equal, and are in can no longer overcome the clockwise mainspring balance. Equilibrium has then been established, and torque exerted upon the click wheel. The torque cre­ there is then no more movement of either spring; wind­ ated by the mainspring has increased to the point where ing stops. it is then in balance with the torque generated by the winding spring. When the mainspring is only partially 5. Maintaining Equilibrium wound, the torque generated by the winding spring is Now if the bellows moves out, losing contact with the much greater than that created by the mainspring. The winding spring (since torque equilibrium exists) and winding spring and chain will then simply follow the again pushes into the same position relative to the back movements of the bellows, with the winding spring plate of the movement, with the mainspring remaining remaining in contact with the bellows under normal in the same wound state, there will be no further wind­ operating conditions. However, as equilibrium is ap­ ing. The prior defined balance remains in effect. How­ proached, the spring characteristics of the winding ever, when a greater temperature is encountered than spring come into play. Hooke's Law states that the force before, the bellows will move in further than before. exerted by a spring is proportional to its compression, The winding spring will be compressed further (closer in linear dimensions, (as lbs. per inch of deflection). to the rear plate) and can now pull on the chain with a When the winding spring is pushed in by the bellows greater force than that at the prior equilibrium posi­ to a specific position, the force with which it can pull tion. As the bellows moves out, the winding spring will on the chain when the bellows moves out is a certain follow, and since now pulling harder on the chain, will value. Now, as the bellows moves out, two things oc­ further wind the mainspring until another equilibrium cur simultaneously. (1) The mainspring is wound, in­ condition is reached, with the mainspring now at a creasing its clockwise torque, and (2) the winding spring slightly higher torque, and the winding spring not ex-

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April 2005 · Horological Times 35 panded outward as far as before, and exerting a greater References force on the chain. The second occurrence, which 1.jaeger-LeCoultre Repair Notes, Caliber #528, Atmos changes the equilibrium state, is the unwinding of the VI. Available from Merritt's Antiques, 1860 mainspring. As the mainspring unwinds, still held by Weavertown Road, P. 0. Box 277, Douglassville, PA C2, the clockwise torque imposed upon the click wheel 19518-0277. Related Reading: Sowers, Edwin U. III. is reduced. Where it had been in balance with the chain "Inspection and Repair of Atmos Clocks." Clockmakers wheel torque (imposed by the winding spring), it is Newsletter, Nov. 2000. Sowers, Edwin U. III. "Atmos now less. When permitted by the bellows, the winding Timekeeping Adjustment." Clockmakers Newsletter, spring can now expand, pulling on the chain, causing Dec. 2000. the chain wheel and click wheel to rotate counterclock­ wise, winding the mainspring. As the winding spring moves outward and the mainspring winds, a new equi­ Clockmakers Newsletter has been published monthly librium state will be achieved. It must be noted that since 1987. For a sample issue, contact: Clockmakers the changes, which occur once equilibrium is estab­ Newsletter, 203 John Glenn Ave., Reading, PA 19607. lished, are small. The teeth upon which C 1 and C2 latch Subscription rates are: $45 for one year or $82 for two are very fine. A small change in temperature and a small years. Phone: (610)796-0969 or e-mail amount of mainspring unwinding can lead to a one­ [email protected]; Website with tooth click movement. The maintaining of equilibrium web store and free clock repan forum: is a continuing, small increment process, except when www.clockmakersnewsletter.com responding to large temperature changes. 0

AWCI has partnered with lntercorp, Inc., to offer a Horologics Insurance Program for Dealers and Collectors . • Coverage for your inventory on premises or stored in a bank vault, at shows and expositions, and in transit. ''ll • State-of-the-art online program (www.shipandinsure.com) provides coverage for package shipments via Federal Express, . ~~~ \() United Parcel, and the Postal Service. Discounts on shipping rates up to 40% when you use FedEx. No two dealers or collectors are alike, so coverage can be tailored to your specific needs. For more information, calllntercorp at 800.640.7601, or download the application form from the AWCI web site at www.awi-net.org. fntercOrp.Nc lnsvrance Proqram Manaqers 1438-F West Main Street, Ephrata, PA 17522-1345 • Phone: 717.721.3500 • Fax: 717.721.3515

36 Horological Times · April 2005 AWCI Material Search BlACK LOlliS XIV HANDS Popular yet hard to find Louis XIV pocket~ watch hands. These are new hands from v~ old stock and the quantities are ~ EDITOR'S NOTE: If you can supply any of the items limited. 6 dozen hands assorted. listed here, please send details to the A WCI Material 01-80168 ...... $7.95 asst. Search. Do not send the items to A WCI. Members WATCH CRYSTAL SCRATCH REPAIR KIT FOR requesting these items will be advised of their avail­ PlASTIC & GlASS ability, and will contact you directly. Repair watch crystals in minutes without removing the crystal from most 121 Rolex 91.1ligne, N-A model, 630 sweep - watches. Insert the proper 1/8" mandrel into a lower auto bridge, (BF # 1421) Dremel or Flex shaft tool, follow the easy directions included. Refills for all 123 Bulova 6 AP, balance complete or movement necessary components are available. complete 062107 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 .$28.45 kit CROWN WHEElS 125 Jaeger-LeCoultre 974 balance complete 1 gross assorted pocket watch crown wheels. (#721/) 01-8420P ...... $5.95 ea. TIIREADED SLEEVES FOR POCKET WATCH CASES 126 Rolex 1055 crown wheel (#424) 039349-1 Factory #1 07 ...... $5.60 ea. 039349-2 Factory #109 ...... _ .$5.60 ea. 039349-3 Factory #1083 ...... $5.60 ea. ·w-.!'J; 127 LeCoultre 426, 039349-4 Factory #1091 ...... $5.60 ea. complete (#721) or balance wheel 039349-5 Factory #1111 ...... $5.60 ea. WHEEL AND PINION CUITING IN HOROLOGY If you can supply any of these items please contact: WHEELAND PINION CUITING By J Malcolm Wild. illustrated with A WCI Material Search, American Watchmakers­ IN HOROLOGY over 500 photographs and line Clockmakers Institute, 701 Enterprise Drive, Harrison, drawings, the text covers early methods for cutting wheels, the OH 45030-1696. Toll Free: 1-866-367-2924, ext. 305; theory behind wheels and pinions, Phone: (513) 367-9800, Fax: (513) 367-1414 or E-mail: practical instruction on all aspects [email protected]. of wheel and pinion cutting and detailed information on the The American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute equipment. 055262 . _ • ...... $55.00 ea. maintains this unique member service to assist profes­ sionals in replacing hard-to-find parts for vintage time­ AMERICAN SCREWS pieces. There is a fee of $10.00 for each search. Steel American thread screws for wrist and pocket watches. Over 1000 assorted genuine Elgin factory screws new & old stock made The A WCI Material Search first contacts several dozen in the early production years in the Chicago material houses and outlets on behalf of the member factory. There are screws for bridges, jewels, plates, to determine if the missing part is available from any wheels and many other applications. These screws can also be used in other American manufactured movements. commercial source in the United States or Canada. If 03-4294 ...... $8.95 ea. the part cannot be found, the search will be listed in B--·- _ --,-,. .. _;:; • Tools the H orological Times. 0 Watch Material a Clock Material Crystal a Mainspring Fitting Service Customer Service Center open 7am- 5pm M- F, 8:30am - 12:30pm Saturday Sorry, parts ockrs cannot be filled un Salurclays! 322~~ Yanceyville St. Greensboro, N.C. 27405 Phone: 1-888-752-767:3 • Fax: 1-800-5:'l7-451 :~ Visit us at www.slarose.com

April2005 Horological Times 37 From the Workshop

Jack Kurdzionak, CW

You Are Invited watch with a broken staff or a hairspring that Do you have a solution to a watch or clock needs truing. Her old catalogs show that 16- repair problem that you want to share with size Waltham watches have balance com­ our membership? Do you have a question pletes that share the same part number, about a repair problem you would like to therefore she expected they should be exact ask? I invite you to participate in this col­ replacements for the ones that she is replac­ umn with your suggestions, questions, and ing. She has discovered that although the comments. It's easy. Just e-mail me at balance completes appear to be interchange­ A WCI or write able, most of the time the replacement bal­ using the old standby known as the postal ance complete will not work properly. She service. You can even fax me at 513-367- asked, "Why am I having so much trouble 1414. replacing the balance assembly?"

I will do my best to help you help the mem­ Although the part numbers may be identi­ bership. By sharing your questions and sug­ cal, the parts are not interchangeable (at least gestions all of our members can benefit not the way we expect parts for current pro­ from our combined knowledge and experi­ duction watches to be compatible. Ameri­ ence. The ideas, tools, techniques and prod­ can watch models had production runs that ucts presented in this column are suggested spanned several decades, and many of those by the author and contributing members models were made in numerous grades. The and are not endorsed by any manufacturer, basic 16-size 1899 model Waltham watch was supplier, advertiser or A WCI itself. made in various grades for over forty years. During that period it underwent numerous Recently, I have received two letters about modifications as new technologies were de­ hairspring and balance wheel work. The first veloped. The 1899 model was made in grades came from a novice watchmaker. She was that varied from a basic, unadjusted, seven­ asking why she had so much difficulty fit­ jewel model to a fully adjusted, twenty-three ting a balance complete to an antique jewel model. Spare parts for this model were Waltham 16-size pocket watch. The other sold in three distinct grades: U grade (unad­ came from an experienced watchmaker justed), A grade (adjusted to temperature), seeking a method to repair the hairspring and P grade (adjusted to position). Although on a current production ETA wristwatch balance staff pivot and roller jewel sizes were movement. standardized, they were not uniform throughout the production life of this move­ Old Technology ment. The balance wheel was produced with The novice member has a large collection several types of roller tables, hairspring con­ of antique Waltham movements she uses for figurations, hairspring materials, and balance spare parts when repairing these venerable screws (brass and/ or gold). Two distinct old timepieces. She prefers to replace the balance staffs were fit to this model and each balance complete when she is repairing a staff was made in various grades and pivot

38 Horological Times · April 2005 sizes. When one considers the numerous variations of the component parts of the balance complete, it becomes apparent that it is best to repair the balance by replacing only the damaged component part of the balance. By only replacing one component, all of the other parts remain the same. As long as the replaced part is the correct size and grade, the balance complete will again fit the movement and function properly.

New Technology Another of our members who wrote is an experienced This unique and simple design allows changes in the watchmaker specializing in the repair of vintage spacing of the regulator pins while keeping them par­ watches. He recently asked about the balance assem­ allel to each other at all times. The ETACHRON as­ bly used in an ETA 2824-2. He noted the hairspring is sembly has helped to make this basic mechanical move­ bonded to an open slot in the stud with an adhesive. ment qmte accurate. The stud is pressed between the two tines of the fork shaped ETACHRON stud support (as shown in the It is not necessary to remove the balance assembly from accompanying sketch). In principle, this arrangement the balance cock during routine service. When service works just as it has for over a hundred years. The hair­ to the balance assembly is needed, it can be safely re­ spring is attached to the stud and the stud is fitted to moved by turning the regulator stud until the pins are the balance cock. The watch being worked on by our at their maximum opening. Then lower the hairspring member has the hairspring detached from the stud. The watchmaker asked how he could reattach the hairspring to the stud. Furthermore, he needed to know how to remove the stud from the cock. His traditional skills dealing with pinned hairsprings and studs secured to the balance cock with a screw do not apply to the ETACHRON assembly.

The technology of bonding the hairspring to the stud eliminates internal in the hairspring and has be­ come standard industry practice. Traditional pinned hairsprings are stressed by being forcibly attached to the stud with a taper pin. Bonded hairsprings are un­ stressed when attached to the stud with an adhesive. The result is more consistent timekeeping. The ETACHRON assembly also has a non-traditional regu­ lator. This part, similar to that of the hairspring stud, is pressed into the fork tines of the regulator and has an open slot for the hairspring to pass through. Both the hairspring stud and the regulator pins are adjusted by turning them with a special ETACHRON wrench. All this every month at a bargain price for AWl members: $65 (normal price $79) for the first year's subscription. Just fill in the The regulator pins are preset by turning them so that form below and send it, along with a US$ check made out to 'Splat the pins are spread open as much as possible and they Publishing Ltd', to Clocks Magazine, Elizabeth House, Royal will be radial to the balance staff. The stud is adjusted Elizabeth Yard, Dalmeny EH29 9EN, UK. Tel/fax: 044 131 331 by turning it slightly until the hairspring is centered 3200. Email: [email protected]. Ip•------, I between the regulator pins. The regulator pins are ad­ :First name ...... Last name ...... AWl N2 ...... •. : I I justed by carefully turning them until there is minimal I I •Address ...... •...... 1 I I clearance between the hairspring and the pins. There I I I I l'''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''' + ''u o oo ooo . o••••••• • • · • · • ••• • ••••• · • · •••~••• •• o . o . oo oo o o ooouo • •• • •• ••• ~•• •••• I should be no binding of the hairspring between the I I : ...... Zipcode ...... Country ...... : regulator pins when they are properly adjusted. I I I I :Telephone N2 ...... •...... Email address ...... @ ...... : ·------~~------·------· April 2005 · Horological Times 39 out of the regulator pins and turn the hairspring stud terchangeable. Only one balance staff and one roller 90 degrees clockwise so that the hairspring is parallel table is used on all of them so that this balance assem­ to the tines of the fork. The stud now can be gently bly can be and should be replaced when it requires more pushed up and out of the fork and the balance assem­ than a minor repair. bly removed from the balance cock. Summary Hairspring adjusting for this model is best kept to a The novice watchmaker was trying to apply current minimum. Minor adjustments are OK but reforming a watch repair methods to an antique piece, while the deformed hairspring will introduce stresses in the hair­ experienced one was applying traditional standard prac­ spring that will negatively affect the accuracy of the tices to a current production movement. Neither balance assembly. Installing a new balance complete method is wrong and each has its place in our craft. rather than attempting to reattach the hairspring with The age, value and quality of the watch needing repair an adhesive is the proper repair for a balance with a and the availability of spare parts for the watch as well detached hairspring. Adhesives available to the watch­ as the watchmaker's skill must all be taken into account maker probably will not perform over time as well as when he or she decides how to approach a given repair. those originally used by the manufacturer. Jack Kurdzionak 0 Although the ETA 2824-2 balance is made in several levels of quality and finish, they are all completely in-

AWCI Home Study Course in Clock Repair Based on the original correspondence course written and administered by Laurie Penman, AWCI's resident clock instructor, this course is con­ structed to provide information and instruction in a manner that is immedi- ately useful in both learning and practicing clock repair. The course contains 16 lessons. At the completion of each lesson you will receive comments and suggestions from Laurie Penman, and a pass or fail grade. Those who achieve a pass grade in each section will receive a certificate of completion. Mr. Penman will be available to answer questions or offer suggestions to each student.

The AWCI Home Study Course in Clock Repair package contains all the material and information necessary to successfully learn the fundamentals of clock repair, including The Clock Repairer's Handbook by Laurie Penman and a one-year subscription to Steven G. Conover's monthly publication, Clockmaker's Newsletter. Course participants will be invited to attend a 2-day meeting at AWCI to confer with Mr. Penman and meet other students. AWCI Members - $750 Non-members - $830 Contact Nancy Wellmann, AWCI Education Coordinator E-mail: [email protected] Phone Toll Free 1-866-367-2924 ext. 303 or (513) 367-9800

40 Horological Times · April 2005 BULLETIN BOARD

ITEMS STILL NEEDED Levin's Pivot Polisher Do you have information regarding this & Straightener month's requests? Do you need infor­ George Davis, Richland, W A, is mation about one of this month's re­ Gilbert Mantel looking for a copy of the parts list sponses? If so, send your information or requests to: Clock Movement and user manual for Levin's pivot Tim Bale, Ironwood, MI, is looking polisher & straightener Cat.# PSOO. for a Gilbert Mantel Clock move­ Horological Times Bulletin Board 701 Enterprise Drive ment with the hammer coming out Swartchild Friction Jewel Harrison, OH 45030-1696 of the top; 51 mm between arbors Assortment #49004JF Toll-Free: 1-866-367-2924, ext. 307 and center shaft; 81 mm between David Pierce, Gambier, OH, is seek­ Phone: (513) 367-9800 winding arbors. Fax: (513) 367-1414 ing a copy of a chart for the E-mail: [email protected] Swartchild friction jewel assortment 0 Pocket Watch Crowns #49004JF. Robert Mohr, Manhattan, KS, is looking for a source for pocket watch crowns for 18 size pocket watches (9.75 mm opening, 10.50 mm diam­ eter), any tap or color.

c~RonoJ

Cl $22.50- One Year Cl $19.50- One Year Cl $42.00- Two Years l.l $.15.00- Two Years Cl $60.00- Three Years 0 $SO 00- TJm,t- Years Foreign subscribers add $10 per Foreign sub.1crib~rs add $10 tJa year. (U.S . Funds drawn from U.S . )'ear. (U.S. F11nds dmwn from U.S. bank only) bank only) Cl Check or money order enclosed 0 Check or money <>rder enclosed U Charge my Visa or MasterCard :~ Charge my Visa •>r MasterCard Card No•. .------­ Card No. ------­ Exp. Date:------Exp. Dare ------­ Signature ______Signature ------­ Phone ______PhmH: ------Name------Name------Address------­ Address------City·----­ State--- Ciry ____ Stare---- ZiP---- Country-- Zip ____ Country-- Company Name-----­ CPrnpany Name-----­ Type of Business------Typ<' of Bu,incss ------Making a Micrometer Adjusted Height Comparator

Laurie Penman

Why? Since the upright is set to one side of the Chiefly because, although a height compara­ base, and the rising block that holds the tor is not an essential clock making instru­ micrometer swivels, the comparator may be ment, it is a very useful one-and cheap mi­ crometers make it inexpensive to create.

The basis of the comparator shown in Fig­ ures 1 & 2 is a three-inch micrometer from a set of three (1", 2" & 3") that were on sale for about $30; it was that price that made me think of creating the comparator. We did not need a new set of micrometers, but there had to be something that we could use them for, rather than the simple measurement of thickness and diameters. A comparator like this can be used to compare (but not mea­ sure), lengths up to ten inches and to an ac­ curacy of 0.0001 ", because it has vernier markings. It allows for accurate adjustment of adjustable assemblies, comparison of thickness when the reach, or throat of an ordinary micrometer will not allow it and very many other operations where the ac­ tual measurement is not so important as the difference between two dimensions.

In this case, the micrometers were supplied with one-inch and two-inch "standards", lengths of steel rod, hardened and ground to precise lengths. Using these between the adjustable height micrometer and the base, allowed the instrument to be set to read be­ tween two inches and four inches, by the simple expedient of slipping both standards into a tube, so that they read as a standard of three inches. Clearly it still does this in one-inch stages, but it is, nevertheless, useful. Figure 1

42 Horological Times · April 2005 Drill rod is used for the support be­ cause it is centerless ground, straight and of fairly consistent diameter along its length. It does not need to be heat-treated. Since it is to fit tightly in the hole in the base and it is unlikely that you will have ream­ ers to adjust the diameter, drill the base to give a hole a little smaller than the drill rod, and then turn the rod to suit the hole. Before drilling the base, make sure that the quill of your drilling machine is truly vertical in both planes to the face of the metal being drilled. Do this by testing with an engineer's square and packing be­ tween the underside of the metal and the top of the drilling machine's table. An error of a thousandth of Figure 2 an inch over a length of one inch will not make any noticeable difference to the effectiveness of the finished stood on a granite surface plate and and to produce a sturdy support for comparator. then read from that base; by adding the rod, a thickness of at least one the thickness of the base to the stan­ inch. Outside these considerations, dards the total dimension that can be machine whatever metal you can accommodated is five and a quarter find. inches.

If you like quality tools, you'll love GRS Making the Stand products. GRS pneumatic engraving machines A four-inch lathe chuck or larger is put controllable POWER in your hands. Four needed for turning and facing the "IMPACT" power engraving machines to choose from. Plus, rotary machines, hand tools, base that is shown in Figure 3, if this diamond wheel sharpening hone, fixtures, is not available make use of a stock gravers, and much more .... even videos & books. size of metal that is cold drawn and _ ...,."""' also offers 5-day "Hands-On" courses: of rectangular section. Cold drawn • Metal Engraving • Scrimshaw metals are reasonably easy to dress • Stone Setting & Jewelry Arts up with a file and emery papers to • Fine Wood Carving ... and more! produce a flat surface, and the choice 1-800-835-351 9 must be made on the basis of avail­ e-mail: [email protected] ability and cost. MSC carry stock alu­ (tell us you saw this ad in Horologica/ Times) minum rectangles one inch thick, four inches wide and twelve inches long at a price of $24 (there isS & H on top of that), simple steel comes in random lengths that boost the cost to $40, but you do get three feet of lt.

The best source is the "cut-off", or scrap box of a metal supplier; the base in Figure 3 was turned from just such a piece. For stability you should aim to have a width of about four inches

Apri12005 Horological Times 43 0.625" dia make a convenient test piece, with both ends chamfered. If the drill is producing too large a hole remove it and use a boring bar to finish it. Fig­ ure 4 shows the method, apart from a center hole in the end of the rod, the making of the bar will not inter­ fere with the set-up on the lathe. Just make sure that you either have an­ other means of drilling a good cen­ ter hole in the end of the boring bar, or do it before you start.

The tool bit used is High Speed Steel (HSS) of round section, if, by any 3.50" dia. chance, you have broken the end off a center drill you will find that the 4.00" dia remains make excellent boring bits. This figure is an illustration only-I Figure 3 had no need to bore it and the mi­ crometer has already been fitted in position, but it shows the principle of using a boring bar between the chuck and tailstock center.

The holder is still in position on the cross-slide and should not have been moved (except longitudinally) since drilling. The bore will still lie on the machine's center line and the boring bar can be slid through the hole, locked in the chuck and supported by a center in the tailstock. Please note that the boring bar needs to be more than twice as long as the bore to be machined. Adjust the cutting bit to make a small cut and measure the start of the bore with a vernier caliper, if it is OK go ahead and bore Figure 4 the full length. Move the saddle back to the starting position and check both ends with the vernier. Making the Holder for the micrometer body. Aluminum This was made from aluminum needs kerosene as a lubricant to pre­ Adjust the protrusion of the boring plate-there is sufficient length in vent it "picking up" on the drill. bit using a micrometer, to make an­ the rectangular aluminum stock other cut. This method can produce listed above to make this part. It is Use a series of drills for the diam­ very precise dimensions of bore with easier to drill it by strapping the eter that is to fit on the support rod quite rudimentary tools. Unlike bor­ metal to the cross-slide and holding so that the final drill has only a small ing with a boring bar held in the tool the drill bit in the three-jaw chuck. amount of metal to remove (about post, bores produced in this way You will see that there are two holes 0.050"). Test the start of the hole on should not be tapered, but check parallel to each other, one for the the final drilling to make sure that it both ends anyway, because the work support rod and one for the hack­ is not too large to give a slide fit on or the saddle may not be as rigidly saw to run into when making the slot the rod. A short piece of the rod will mounted as you thought.

44 Horological Times · April 2005 The slot is produced by using a hack­

r -~ saw (or a circular saw, or end mill on I !_, I I • a milling machine). Saw into the I , .• 1 I I I drilled hole and then file the sides of , I the slot with a flat, rough file until ( 1 I the body of the micrometer is a nice I slide fit. { I You'll notice that I have cut away \ much of the micrometer body, it is ...... ______not really needed, and to make it look " Figure 5 a little fancier I have made a right angle cutout so that there is a face registering on the end of the holder. It does not serve any very useful pur­ pose.

Two cotters hold the body in posi­ tion. Slide the micrometer into the slot, level the inside of the body so that it is parallel to the base of the holder, and use Loctite 901 to lock it in place. After half an hour the Loctite should be hard; drill the right hand hole through the holder and the micrometer and fit the cotter. It 0 should be a tight push fit. pped hole for locking screw

Check that the spindle of the mi­ crometer is parallel to the bore (easi­ Check for parallelity est to do if the holder is slid onto Figure 6 the upright). Perfect parallelism is not necessary from the point of view of measurements obtained with the instrument, but it must, at least, look parallel. If all is still well, drill the second cotter and fit it. If there is a slight error, it should be possible to make adjustments by heating the holder until you can smell the Loctite singeing, at which point it is degrad­ mg.

All that remains now is to install a locking screw-it needs a thread that is about 1/ 4" American Fine Thread and a nice looking knob (Figure 7). 0

Figure 7

April 2005 · Horological Times 45 DON'T MISS THE MISSISSIPPI!

Attend the 45rh Annual Meeting of the American Watchmak­ ers-Clockmakers Institute (AWCI), August 4-7,2005, Minne­ apolis/St. Paul, Minnesota. Stay at the Sheraton South Bloomington, which is ten minutes from the Minneapolis/St. Paul International Airport. The Mall of America is seven min­ utes away. Free shuttles are provided to both locations by the Sheraton.

Entertainment abounds. The Mall of America with its four lev­ els of shopping also includes an amusement park, aquarium, theaters, and much more. Bass fishing on Lake Minnetonka is also an option. The Minnesota Twins are in town and play Oak­ land on August 4 at 12:10 PM; Boston on August 5 at 7:10PM, August 6 at 6:10 PM and August 7 at 1:10 PM. The light rail train goes from the Mall of America to the Twins Dome for $3 round trip.

Join the ELM Trust on Friday, August 6 and board the Anson Northrup at Padelford Landing, Harriet Island, for a St. Paul tour up the Mississippi River. The Sidewheeler paddle boat passes the Mississippi National River and Recreation Area, with a river view of Fort Snelling. See the site of Pig's Eye Farrant's cave where the city of St. Paul began.

The Minnesota Watch and Clockmakers Association will hold its annual auction of 300 or more lots on Saturday night fol­ lowing the A WCI awards banquet. Primarily this is a tool auc­ tion with a few clocks and watches thrown in.

Sheraton South Bloomington (formerly the Radisson), 7800 Normandale Boulevard, Minneapolis, MN 55439-3145, $95/ night for a traditional King or Double sleeping room. Call for reservations at 952-835-7800 before July 15, 2005. The hotel has 565 spacious guest rooms with the same comfortable beds you remember from last year's convention. It also has an over­ sized swimming pool, jet spa, sauna, exercise room and game room. Cabana rooms with private balconies or patios are avail­ able as well as the exclusive Plaza Club level if you would like to upgrade your room. Restaurants include Kaffe Stuga, Plaza Java, and Navigator's Lounge.

46 Horological Times · April 2005 AWCI 45th Annual Program

Thursday, August 4, 2005 Saturday, August 6, 2005

9:00AM - 4:00 PM Chronometer Club 7:30- 10:00 AM Continental Breakfast at St. Paul College 7:30- 9:00AM Registration 10:00 AM Research & Education Council Doug Thompson, Director, 8:00- 9:30AM Tamara Hauk St. Paul College Computerizing Your Shop

5:00 - 6:00 PM Chronometer Club Mike Gainey- Servicing the Business Meeting, Sheraton Aging Modern Floor Clock in the Home 3:00- 6:00PM Registration - Plaza Foyer, Sheraton 9:45-11:15AM Dan Fenwick - ETA

6:00PM Welcome Reception Jerry Faier - Clocks

7:00 - 10:00 PM Affiliate Chapter Reception Bob Ockenden - Clocks and Roundtable Discussion. Dr. Vincent Schrader 10:00 AM-3:00PM Trade Fair AWCI Certification 11:30 AM-1:30PM Vendors Luncheon Buffet Friday, August 5, 2005 1 :30- 3:00 PM Tamara Hauk 7:30- 10:00 AM Continental Breakfast Computerizing Your Shop

7:30- 9:00AM Registration Mike Gainey- Servicing the Aging Modern Floor Clock in 8:00AM - Noon Affiliate Chapter Meeting the Home Keynote Speaker Dan Fenwick, ETA Products 3:15-4:45 PM Dan Fenwick- ETA

9:00- 10:00 AM J.M. Dodson Perpetuation Jerry Faier - Clocks Fund Meeting Bob Ockenden -Clocks 10:00 AM- Noon Industry Advisory Board Meeting 6:00PM President's Reception (semi-formal attire) 1 :00- 5:00 PM AWCI Board of Directors Meeting 7:00- 9:00PM Dinner & Awards Program

5:30PM Bus leaves for the Padelford 9:00 PM - Midnight MWCA Auction Packet Board Co., Harriett Island, St. Paul - Dinner cruise Sunday,August7,2005 on the Anson Northrup River Boat for the ELM-Trust 7:30- 9:00AM Breakfast Buffet fundraiser (casual, comfortable attire) 9:00AM - Noon AWCI Board of Directors Meeting

Hospitality Room - Open to all - Evenings throughout the event

April 2005 · Horological Times 47 r------, 1 AWCI's 45th Annual Meeting - August 4-7, 2005 Registration Deadline: July 15, 2005 Registration also available on line: www.awci.com (Please type or print all information requested) Name: ______AWCI Member No.: ______Company/Affiliate Chapter: ______City:______State/Province ______Zip/Postal Code ____ _ Phone: Fax: ______E-mail: ______Spouse's Name: ______Guest's Name:, ______Child #1: ------­ Age: _____ Child #2: ------­ Age: _____ Child #3: ------Age: _____

Registration Fees Received by July 1 After July 1 Weekend Package* AWCI Member __ @$250.00 __ @ $300.00 Nonmember __ @$300.00 __ @ $350.00 Spouse/Guest __ @$150.00 __ @$200.00 Children (under 12) __ @$ 50.00 __ @$100.00 Saturday Package** AWCI Member --@ $200.00 __ @$250.00 Nonmember --@ $250.00 __ @$300.00 Spouse/Guest __ @$ 75.00 __ @ $100.00 Education Package*** AWCI Member __ @ $150.00 --@ $200.00 Nonmember __ @ $200.00 --@ $250.00

Friday Night ELM Trust __ @ $ 60.00 per person Boat Ride & Dinner (Not included in weekend package)

Total _ ____ Should we be aware of any personal health issues you have?______

Do you prefer vegetarian meals? ------

*Weekend Package Includes: Thursday: Round Table Reception; Friday: Continental Breakfast, Affiliate Chapter and Board Meetings; Saturday: Continental Breakfast, Technical Presentations, Luncheon, Dinner/Awards Program , and Auction; Sunday: Breakfast Buffet **Saturday Package Includes: Saturday: Continental Breakfast, Technical Presentations, Luncheon and Dinner/Awards Program, and Auction ***Education Package Includes: Saturday: Continental Breakfast, Technical Presentations & Luncheon Note: Program changes will be announced as they occur.

D Check D American Express D Discover D MasterCard D Visa Name on Card ______Account# ______Expiration Date _____ Signature ______

Please make checks payable to AWCI. All fees must be paid in advance; credit cards will be processed upon receipt. Payment in U.S. Funds, drawn on a U.S. Financial Institution. No refunds for cancellations after July 15, 2005

1 AWCI's 45 h Annual Meeting 701 Enterprise Drive Harrison, OH 45030 Toll Free 1-866-367-2924, ext. 301 Fax: 513-367-1414 E-mail: [email protected] L------~ 48 Horological Times · April 2005 AWCI's 45TH ANNUAL MEETING AUGUST 4-7, 2005 VENDOR REGISTRATION DOOR PRIZE - ELM TRUST DONATION

The American Watchmakers-Ciockmakers Institute would like to invite your participation in the AWCI 45th Annual Meeting & Convention at the Sheraton South Bloomington Hotel in Minneapolis, Minnesota. Exhibi­ tors may reserve a table for $225 for Saturday, August 6, 2005 from 10 AM to 3:00 PM This will also entitle two people to have lunch and dinner with the convention attendees. Deadline for vendor registration is July 1st, 2005.

CompanyNrune______Address______City ______State------Zip ______Phone______Fax ______E-Mail, ______

0 Please reserve a table for us to exhibit during the AWCI 45th Annual Meeting. The following people will be attending:

Name ------litle ------

Name ------Title ------

Name ------Title------

0 A door prize will be sent to AWCI for the drawings held during the Trade Fair and at the close of the convention. This entitles our company to be listed as a convention sponsor.

The generous financial support of persons interested in preserving the past and building the future of horol­ ogy augments the AWCI-ELM Charitable Trust. Your donation will contribute to the education of the next generation of watchmakers and clockmakers or to maintaining the historical record of the craft.

Please accept this donation of $:______to the AWCI-ELM Charitable Trust

Payment Method:

0 Check 0 American Express 0 Discover 0 MasterCard 0 Visa Total _ ___

Name on Cam ______

Account# ------Expiration Date ___ Signature ------

April 2005 · Horological Times 49 Affiliate Chapter Report

Glenn D. Gardner, CMW

The informational packet the A WCI office difficult was not all states do things the staff mailed out with the dues renewal had same. A WCI decided to work with a bro­ some great benefits that most members ker that can insure in all states. This way don't know about. During the last 4 or 5 they can custom fit your insurance to you. years the benefits for joining A WCI have You can help your employees also get cov­ increased considerably. erage for which you pay and get reimbursed. Check with them; you might be able to save One I think is a great benefit for a business 20% on your health insurance. That really owner is the merchant credit card process­ would add up for the year. Call1-888-450- ing agreement. As a Director on the Board, 3040. I was called and given the opportunity to listen to their sales pitch. Dan, the repre­ AWl-Matters is a great benefit that many sentative was very informative and not at all are not taking advantage of. If you have a pushy. Their rates are very competitive and computer and e-mail you will get all of the for a small business owner about as low as I news of what is going on at A WCI. If you have seen. Contact them at 1-800-354-3988. have questions about parts, how to do some­ thing special with a watch or clock, A WI I have been through the personal property matters is the place to ask the question. This insurance game and was dropped by a com­ serves as one of the largest parts house for pany who discontinued doing that sort of discontinued parts I know of. Questions are thing. I had to change to another company answered daily on problems that come up and then switched to Jewelers Mutual when in your everyday repair work. Try it out. I bought the store. I have not contacted this E-mail awimatters-subscribe@yahoogroups lntercorp company but it sure is worth a try. .com, if you want to learn more before sign­ I know Jim Lubic has worked on getting a ing up go to http:/ /groups.yahoo.com/ company to fill this void for years. Call group/awimatters 1-800-640-7601. Some of the most interesting articles in the The build your own website has been some­ Horological Times are the ones that come thing I have been going to do since it be­ from the Affiliate Chapters. They give your came a benefit. My store has a website but group publicity on what you are doing and it is very difficult to change anything inside give other groups ideas. All you need to do it. This month I will be changing to this web is write a couple of paragraphs and put a pic­ builder and I will give you an update next ture in of the group. This would be great if month. I have heard great things about its we could get some in the next H oro logical versatility. It is just $8.95 for 2 pages or Times. $18.95 for unlimited pages a month. Con­ tact Walker Development Group at See you at the A WCI annual meeting and . . www.awci.companysitecreator.com. convention in August. 0 Jim has also been working on an AWCI Health and Benefits Solutions pro­ gram for a while. The reason this was so

50 Horological Times · April 2005 New Members Zantech's compressor system has a unique dual trigger action that is Arizona Mississippi capable of spraying dry filtered air, as Winters, Spencer-Tempe, AZ* Gutierrez, Francisco-Laurel, MS weU as PlastiCLEAN~ Solvent. Safely dissolve dry oils and other contaminants Pierce, Paul W. Ill-Vicksburg, MS (without disassembly of the gear train), Arkansas all with the ease of a foot switch Scott, John C.-Hot Springs National Park, AR* Missouri activated system that is quiet enough for a retail environment. The cost of Davis, Vic-Springfield, MO cleaning one movement with the California Zantech compressor sYStem averages Campbell, Douglas-Escondido, CA* New York only 10 cents per movement! Chavez, Samuel-Arroyo Grande, CA* Doherty, Robert-Painted Post, NY* Faulkner, Charles E.-Riverside, CA* Kit includes: Graham, John-Irvine, CA North Carolina • Dual-Action Spray Gun Hong, Viet-Westminster, CA Danner, James-Winston-Salem, NC • Qt. PlastiCLEANsolvent • 2 oz and 3/4 oz Jar with cover Koski, Karl R.-Goleta, CA * • Pair Movement Grippers Lechner, John H.-Lompoc, CA * Ohio • Airbrush Holder Messinger, Mark-Long Beach, CA Heck, Robert H.-Akron, OH* • Compressor Air-Hose • In-line Moisture Filter Florida Puerto Rico 30.6SOC (Quiet Compressor & AC Landau, Jonathan-Maitland, FL Lopez, Luis A.-Manati, PR* foot Switch Inclod~) $699.95 Munchel, Edward-Lakeland, FL Parker, Robert-Miami, FL Rhode Island Torok, Jaimi-New Smyrna Beach, FL Gagne, Gary C.-Portsmouth, Rl* Zepeda, Jesus P.-Miami, FL South Carolina Georgia Hoffman, Doran L.-Myrtle Beach, SC* lssenberg, Phil-Marietta, GA Tennessee Illinois Lee, Charles-Oak Ridge, TN Belmonte, Peter-0 Fallon, IL Stelmaszak, Jerry-Nashville, TN Ferreira, Jeffrey-Quincy, IL Katterjohn, Fred W.-Mundelein, IL Texas Simply the best cleaning Lutjens, Gary-Normal, IL Graeter, ian-Tyler, TX solution for quartz watch movements Serb, Don-West Chicago, IL Karalis, Nick T.-Houston, TX* 13 D oz Aerosol Can 1 qt Bnlk' Liquid Indiana Washington Allen, Kathy J.-Sunman, IN Bloodworth, John L.-Vancouver, WA* Eichhorn, Eileen-Decatur, IN Myers, Bill-Lawrenceburg, IN International Moorcroft, Christopher-Southampton, Hamp­ Maine shire, England Hannington, John-Orrington, ME Kumar, Kiran-Nadi, Fiji

Maryland *AWCI welcomes back these individuals who Cho, Dae S.-Bel Air, MD* have chosen to re-instate their membership. Halliburton, Rupert R.-Kensington, MD*

April 2005 · Horological Times 51 MORGAN PIVOT POUSBER ELECTRONIC INSTRUMENT SERVICE POLISH PIVOTS IN AS We are Factory Authorized Service for: Classified UTILE AS 5 -7 SEC. • VIBROGRAF & PORTESCAP FliS ~ ~~=~T H£5. WAtcHMA..,.. • TICK-0-PRINT & L&R Advertising· MORGAN CLOCK CO. We service all makes of ultrasonics, all makes of watch rate 800-806-2220 ~6 CST recorders, and related equipment 25 years experience. MOR GANPIVOTPOUSHER.COM Regulations & Rates 1 90 Deepstone Drive San Rafael, CA 94903 Used Equipment Bought & Sold WATCH REPAIR ~ For Information ~ Ads are payable in advance 90¢ per word, Most brands. 30 years experience. Fast tum­ (415) 453-9266 $1.00 per word in bold type. Classified dis­ around. Central State Watch Services, 4820 W. ~ llliiiiBI play ads are $40.00 per column inch, 214'' 24th St., Lawrence, KS 66047 (785) 749-4632, wide. Ads are not commissionable or dis­ sevenstarBO@ hotmail.com countable. The publisher may, at the ATMOS by Jaeger-LeCoultre publisher's sole discretion and for any rea­ A & B WATCH REPAIR, INC. Completely overhauled with the son and without notice, decline to publish or Since 1943 longest labor warranty on the planet! republish any ad, in which case any fees sub­ dba A & B CRYSTAL FITTING Five years on all labor! mitted or paid for such ads shall be returned 25 Years Experience Mike's Clock Clinic or rebated to the advertiser. The publisher re­ We do hard-to-find crystals, cutting and fitting Established in 1982 & devoted serves the right to edit all copy. Price lists of Flat, Dome & Fancy Glass Crystals exclusively to the Atmos since 1990. services will not be accepted. Confidential ads I also overhaul 400-day clocks. are $10.00 additional for postage and han­ Pocket Watches, Hunting Case & Open Face dling. The first of the month is issue date. Fancy Magnified Crystals Please call 877-286-6762 Copy must be received 30 days in advance Gold, Silver & Black Edge All Round in Fancy http://www.atmos-man.com/atmos.html (June issue closes for copy on May 1st). Try Once and We Will Prove It To You!! Call Us Now! HOROLOG/CAL TIMES Ask for Waseem ALVIN KRUTOLOW FOR 701 Enterprise Drive Phone (312) 263-5202 ROLEX SERVICE Harrison, OH 45030 (312) 263-9047 or (312) 263-1705 Master Watchmaker, 47 years experience. Toll Free 1-866-367-2924, ext. 307 Fax (312) 263-9056 Awarded technical certificate from Rolex in Phone (513) 367-9800 29 E. Madison St., Suite #809 1977. Service includes case & bracelet refin­ Fax (513) 367-1414 Chicago, IL 60602 ishing & waterproofing of case. All watch parts E-mail: [email protected] are genuine Rolex. We specialize in the repair of high-grade watches & clocks. Not affiliated EXPERIENCED WATCHMAKERS with Rolex Watches, Inc. USA. Ask for Alvin or In business since 1936. Trade watch repair shop Marcus, (203) 792-4539. located in Scranton, PA. We also carry a wide variety of watch material, tools and supplies. Call TRADESMAN for a price list. (570) 342-9442 or check out our vintage watches at www.empirewatch.net

HAMILTON ELECTRIC WATCH REPAIR Expert, experienced service on all Hamilton VINTAGE POCKET WATCH RESTORATION. 500 and 505 Electric watches. Hamilton electric Twenty-eight years experience, guarantee, watches and parts always wanted. Rene free estimates. The Escapement, P.O. Box Rondeau, P.O. Box 391, Corte Madera, CA 522, Pooler, GA 31322; (912) 330-0866 94976. Tel: (415) 924-6534. E-mail: rene@ hamiltonwristwatch.com CLOCK , MUSIC BOX MAINSPRINGS, GEAR Prompt Reliable Service ... Guaranteed PINION CUTIERS, MATERIAL & PARTS CUS­ Call Us or Visit dialrepair.com r------, TOM MADE. TANI ENGINEERING, 1852 St. Rt. 44, Atwater, OH 44201 ; (330) 325-0645. Cata­ DIAL log $3.00. CLEANING, RESTORATION, REFINISHING PART MANUFACTURING FOR ALL TYPES OF CLOCKS & WATCHES POCKET WATCH & REPAIR We service and restore all types and grades of watches .. ' ; General repair and restoration of antique and and clocks-Jlecoultre's Atmos- Patek Phillipe- Piguet­ - Rolex (certificate # 0168) G . z· complicated watches. Custom parts fabrication including staffs, verge staffs, stems, levers, and omega- Accutron- tuning forks- electric- quartz- fusses­ • -- springs. Located in Massachusetts. Matt alarms- minute repeaters- chronographs- chronom­ - eters-any complications- pendant watches- pocket Henning, CW (413) 549-1 950; •.! ~ •• www .henningwatches.com watches- antique or new- cuckoo clocks- 400- days electronic and quartz - we retrofit modernize watches BEFORE AFTER to quartz or mechanical- repivoting- stem manufactur­ WATCH WHEEL REPIVOTING ing, ( regular or oversize) free estimates, 30 years in Quartz Conversions Parts custom made. Philip Stoller, CW watch and clocks restoration and parts manufacturing. Diamond Dial Conversions (602) 293-3165, [email protected] GCA LA PRECISION Emblem & Name Personalization Guido C. Alave Write for Brochures Member AWl, NAWCC 3830 Parkland Dr. INTERNATIONAL DIAL CO., INC. DIAL REFINISHING CO. FAST SERVICE, FINEST QUALITY, quantity works welcome. Fairfax, VA 22033 58 W . SUGARTREE Specialize on changing dial feet positions to fit Phone 703-352-8793 Cell 703-627-4054 P.O. BOX 970 Fax 703-352-8077 the quartz movement. Send your works to: KIRK WILMINGTON, OH 45177 E-mail: [email protected] DIAL OF SEATILE, 4th & Pike Bldg., Suite 625, (937) 382-4535 www.watch-watches -repai rs.com Seattle, WA 98101; (206) 623-2452. L------.J 52 Horological Times · April 2005 FENDLEY & COX WHEEL AND PINION SPECIALIST 1530 Etain Rd., Irving, TX 75060 ALTAARDENWATCHBANDS RICHARD COX 972-986-7698 CMC, FNAWCC, CMBHI Free Watchbands Organizer www.fendley-cox.com Free Display Trays

CLOCK GEARS, BARRELS and PINIONS made .... from your sample, ARBORS re-pivoted, teeth - ... - - replaced in gears or barrels. All work -... .:11 -.a .,. _, - -..... guaranteed, fair prices fast turn around. -.., .,. Call Mike Loebbaka, 86 Mullens Lane, ---- .,.- Saugerties, NY 12477; Phone: 800-411-4542, - ..... ~ - tictoc@ oldandnew.com - ... -...... , -, I I • f_ ~ ~ ·., iT :: :; ..... - WATCH REPAIR - lfifi1·1-lll I .t] f''!'; '· 1 . • J•• Four person watch repair shop. Reliable, fast I - . ·. I TIT0\\ ' \i :-'II I • service. Central State Watch Services, 4820 I I \ W 24th Street, Lawrence, KS 66047; Phone ll \-1 l \?/'<-''· ; ,:· ~~.'.': .,' / (785) 7 49-4632

WATCH WHEEL REPIVOTING LEATHER WATCHBANDS Parts custom made. Philip Stoller, CW (602) 293-3165, pstoller@ mailstation.com STARTER KIT 216 pes. of high quality straps for $495.00 12mm. 14mm. 16mm.l8mm and 20mm. IN BLACK & BROWN COLORS ARTICLES FOR SALE 1-800 583 1906

DOCTOR'S WATCHES - beautiful German de­ sign, Swiss mechanical ETA movement, good price. Contact Mark Butterworth for info at (800) 258-5418 or bci @muscanet.com Clockmaking & Modelmaking Books, Videos & / eckcells DVDs by W. R. Smith, 8049 Camberley Drive, Your battery connection, and more ... Powell, TN 37849. Phone 865-947-9671; 379 Main Street E-mail: [email protected] Stoneham, MA 02180 REPAIR KIT FOR THE ETA 976.001 Regula and H. Herr cuckoo movements. Com­ • Contains 50 assorted genuine ETA plete selection. Also factory stopper new Her­ spare parts for servicing this movement mie, Urgos, and Kieninger at 60% OFF our regu­ • Circuit, stems, insulators, all wheels, lar wholesale prices. Call Butterworth 1-800-258- screws, cells, etc. supplied in a refillable, Newwebshel 5418. partitioned container. Refills available Free ShiPPing and •n In $US Separately, these parts would cost more than $200 YOUR COST FOR COMPLETE KIT ... $65! ~·· Watch Repair Tools & Supplies If You Repair Clocks ... (800) 514-1270 + Clock Repair Tools & Supplies... you need our all new Catalog #30. Terry Kurdzionak, member AWCI for American and European clocks of ell types! HOf'ological Repair and Re:femce Books ~ ~through our inventory and t_ l . order on-line f4-hours a day! ..• www.merritts.com

ur fuU tolor, 19~ page 112004 CaUiog of repair supplies, tools and books is now ayailable. Call or write for a copy lodsyl .. .$LOO poslpd.

RITTS - .... _,~, ...... _... __ ;..<' ·-- '-.. , .... --~·- ...... ·-'''''" -·-·~ - ...... ·---..--- ..... ~-~---- ~ ....Uil .~H REPAIR - Timesavers ARTMENT Box 12700 • Scottsdale. AZ 85267• USA 1860 Weave:r1own Rd, Phone: 480483-371/ I Fax:480·483-6116 [email protected] I www.tlmesavers.com DoUilla.ssville, PA 19518 Our 164 page Catalog #30 with 1.000's of 610-689-9541 FAX: 610-689-0.567 products is S3 postpaid.

April2005 Horological Times 53 I ARTICLES FOR SALE HELP WANTED

SHERLINE PRODUCTS Free catalogs upon request Limited Supply on Hand LVMH of Accessories at Old Prices WATCH & JEWELRY Starrett Collets Now Available ANTIQUE , LTD. Become a part of the prestigious LVMH family of watches and P.O. Box 201 , Loretto, MN 55357 Toll Free 877-643-7698 jewelry in Springfield, NJ. Experience working with the crafts­ E-mail: info@ AntiqueCiockworksLtd.com manship and specialty engineering of luxury brands such as www.AntiqueCiockworksltd.com TAG Heuer Dior STUCK FOR A MOVEMENT? or a watch part? Call Don Kraker's Watch Move­ Louis Vuitton ments. {559) 229-8423 or write 4325 No. 5th Om as St. , Fresno, CA 93726. Zenith Chaumet DASHTO INC.!TOM MISTER PO Box 61894 Actively seeking experienced WATCHMAKERS, ESTIMATORS, Virginia Beach, VA 23466 http://www.dashto.com TECHNICIANS and POLISHERS. Ideal candidates for watch­ Huge and everchanging selection making must have five years of repair experience with quartz, Used and new horological items mechanical and chronograph movements. Ideal candidates for Sold by internet list only TOOLS/EQUIPMENT polishing must have watch polishing experience. MATERIAL ASSTS/PARTS POCKET/WRISTWATCHES We offer a pleasant working atmosphere, newly remodeled work­ WATCH MOVEMENTS shop, excellent benefits including 401 k, and competitive salary WATCH CASES & DIALS plus incentives. WATCH BRACELETS/BUCKLES MUCH MORE LVMH Watch & Jewelry WE BUY & TRADE ALSO tom @dashto.com Human Resources Department http://dashto.org 966 South Springfield Avenue Springfield, NJ 07081 Fax: 973-467-5730 BUSINESS FOR SALE human. resou rces.us@ lvmhwatchjewelry.com

WANTED WATCH BOXES FOR SALE - RETIRING: Well established fam­ Buy - Sell - Trade ily business specializing in watch and clock sales WANTED TO BUY We want most major brands. Also buying high­ and repair for over 37 years. Located in end jewelry brand boxes. Doug Giard, 586- Gainesville, Florida. Retail inventory and repair 774-3684 equipment included in sale price. $175,000. WANTED Contact Mike Lentz {352) 332-9369 or {352) 283- Audemars Pigue! Balance Wheel 4185. Cal. 1004 ML9/12 9L Mountain Time Service Call Dennis (970) 434-1607 WE BUY ENTIRE Fax: (970) 523-6435 SITUATIONS WANTED WATCH COLLECTIONS We pay up to 97% of market for karat gold scrap (any amount)! Also, buy filings, gold fill, sweeps, Experienced English watchmaker. British Horo­ silver, platinum! Immediate 24-hour payment Call Toll Free logicallnstitute certified. Has Rolex and Omega return mail! Ship insured/registered mail to: training, seeks employment in Florida with top AMERICAN METALS COMPANY, 253 King 1-800-426-2344 quality company. Reply to BOX SW42005, c/o St., Dept. HT, Charleston, SC 29401. Estab­ 203-366-2500 Horological Times, 701 Enterprise Drive, Harri­ lished 1960. Phone (843) 722-2073. son, OH 45030. Wanted: Waltham repeater movement or case. SPECIAL TV METALS 25-year professional watchmaker seeking em­ Also complete repairable complicated watches. REFINING ployment. Experience includes Cartier and Mike (509) 325-5373. [email protected] COMPANY, INC. Chelsea Clocks. Please reply to: Horologica/ 1915 Black Rock Turnpike Times, Box SW404, 701 Enterprise Drive, Har­ Fairfield, CT 06430 rison, OH 45030. WATCH MATERIAL DISTRIBUTORS Members: Ron Fried, Apprentice Watchmaker & School of Horology Please call us if you are interested Better Business Bureau Graduate seeks position with professional President in selling your business. "/look forward to Jewelers Board of Trade watchmaker/jeweler in eastern or central Penn­ All replies confidential. giving you honest and 233 Consecutive Ads sylvania. Resume and references upon request. Contact Pat Cassedy reliable service." (570) 450-0855

54 Horological Times · April 2005 SCHOOLS IT'S TIME TO SELL ~ A WATCH TOP PRIC!?S PAID! L - ROLEX • PATEK PHJliP~E VACHERON & CONSTANTIN AUDEMARS PlGUET BREITll G • CARTIER Study the Art of Swiss Watchmaking & OTRERS in a Comprehensive 2-Year Program

When you 're ready (o sell · Cafl Toll Free 1-800-842-8625 It's time to invest in a career for a lifetime. The growth of the luxury watch A/wa}l'5 nrompr pllymentl market has created job opportunities for qualified watchmakers throughout the United States. Your career potential is unlimited due to the current and future need for watchmakers. Learn in an environment that combines old world craftsmanship with state of the art techniques and equipment.

Now is the time to request an application for the 2-year training program. There are four WOSTEP (Watchmakers of Switzerland Training and Education Program) Partnership Schools in the U.S. The full-time curricu­ lum is designed to train and certify graduates for a fulfilling career in the watchmaking profession. The WOSTEP program is available at the schools listed below. Programs start in September in both Lititz and Seattle, and in January in Okmulgee and Saint Paul. Please write to the Admissions office or request an application by telephone or email:

Lititz Watch Technicum Oklahoma State University 1 Wynfield Drive Okmulgee Watchmaking Lititz, PA 17543 and Microtechnology (717) 625-3787 1801 E. 4th Street [email protected] Okmulgee. OK 74447 We also fit glass crystals to ~- (918) 293-4703 North Seattle Community www.osu-okmulgee.edu/watch/ Openface, Hunting, and English College Watch Technology chain drive watches. Institute Saint Paul College Complete watches, dials, 9600 College Way North Watchmaking Program movements, case springs for sale. Seattle, WA 98103 235 Marshall Ave. (206) 526-0169 Saint Paul, MN 55102 G F Specialties [email protected] (651) 846-1408 1-800-351-6926 www.saintpaul.edu P.O. Box 170216 Milwaukee, WI 53217 ATTENTION RETIRED WATCHMAKERS $$WANTED ANYTHING$$ Call us before you sell your parts, tools, and Rolex - Cartier - Patek - Breitling watches. We have helped over 130 watch­ Panerai - Le Coultre makers in the last six years to dispose of Vacheron - AP - Etc. SERIOUS NATIONAL DEALER their accumulations. When you're really Watches, Boxes, Dials, Links, Parts, Bands, $$$ BUYING WATCHES$$$ ready to sell, we're ready to buy! Phone (727) Movements, Crystals, Bezels, Crowns, Clocks, 327-3306. Ask for Jeff or Nancy. E-mail: Signs, Posters, Catalogs, Instruction Books, o Any old steel Rolex, regardless of condition [email protected] Polish Cloths, Wallets, Hats, Shirts, Promo o Rolex parts - dials, bands, movements, crowns, Items, ANYTHING! Doug Giard, 586-774-3684 buckles • Steel Milgauss, Daytona - Pay $8500 - $20,000 WE BUY WATCHES • Submariner, GMT, Explorer- Pay $1000- $3500 Rolex, Patek, Cartier, LeCoultre, Vacheron, • UNCLAIMED REPAIRS -Anything Breitling, Audemars, Tudor and others. Modern WANTED or Vintage. Doug Giard, 586-774-3684 THE PRICES WE NOW PAY DEAD WATCH BATTERIES HAVE NEVER BEEN HIGHER Highest Prices Paid DON MEYER Chronograph movements, cases, dials, parts We arrange FREE UPS pickup VINTAGE TIMEPIECES WORLDWIDE and watches. Paying: Valjoux 72 - $200.00; Ve­ Payment within 24 hours of receipt 12900 Preston Rd. #715, Dallas, TX 75230 nus 178 - $150.00; Longines 13ZN - $350.00; Phone Anytime: 972-392-4281, 1-800-833-3159 Valjoux 69 - $350.00; also Rolex 620 NA - TOLL FREE (888) 808-1883 Fax: 972-392-4283 $350.00. Dean Samelle, 25 W Beverley St., Southern Metals Corporation E-mail: [email protected] Staunton, VA 24401; 1-866-877-8164.

April2005 Horological Times 55 Advertisers' Index AWCI Employee Directory

Borel & Co., Jules ...... 5 (816) 421-6110 James E. Lubic, CMW Executive Director Butterworth Clocks, Inc ...... 33 Education & Technical Director (800) 258-5418 1-866-367-2924 ext. 310 [email protected] Cas-Ker Co ...... inside back cover Lucy Fuleki (513) 674-7700 Assistant Executive Director 1-866-367-2924 ext. 304 Chronos/WCR ...... 41 [email protected] (303) 296-1600 Thomas J. Pack Clocks ...... 39 Finance Director 011 01 31 228 6638 1-866-367-2924 ext. 311 [email protected] Esslinger & Co ...... inside front cover (651) 452-7180 Donna K. Baas Managing Editor/Advertising Manager Ferrell & Company ...... 29 1-866-367-2924 ext. 307 (213) 627-6031 [email protected]

Frei & Borel ...... 27 Nancy L. Wellmann (510) 832-0355 Education Coordinator 1-866-367-2924 ext. 303 GRS Tools ...... 43 [email protected] (800) 835-3519 Sharon McManus S. LaRose, Inc ...... 37 Membership Coordinator (336) 621-1936 1-866-367-2924 ext. 302 [email protected]

Livesay's, Inc ...... 7 Mary Huff (813) 229-2715 Shipping Coordinator 1-866-367-2924 ext. 305 Maxell Corp ...... back cover [email protected] (201) 794-5900 Heather Weaver McCaw Co., William S ...... 3 Receptionist/Secretary (419) 243-3720 1-866-367-2924 ext. 301 [email protected] Newall Manufacturing Company ...... 17 (800) 621-6296 Laurie Penman Clock Instructor Primrose Supplies, Inc ...... 23 1-866-367-2924 ext. 318 (801) 485-3908 I pen ma [email protected]

Smith Supply House ...... 21 Jim Meyer (213) 622-1687 IS Director 1-866-367-2924 ext. 323 Twin City Supply ...... 11 [email protected] (952) 545-2725 American Watchmakers-Ciockmakers Institute Vibrograf U.S.A. Corp ...... 13 701 Enterprise Drive (516) 437-8700 Harrison, OH 45030 Phone: Toll Free 1-866-367-2924 (513) 367-9800 Zantech ...... 51 Fax: (513) 367-1414 (800) 441-7569 E-mail: [email protected] Web Site: www.awci.com Office Hours: Mon-Fri 8:00 to 5:00 (EST) Closed National Holidays

56 Horological Times · April 2005 Designed to provide you with maximum reliability and superior performance

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Jewelry Cleaner Concentrate Ultrasonic Watch Rinsing Solution • Strong Ammoniated cleaner. #111 Watch Cleaning Solution #3 Watch Rinsing Solution • Ideal solution for ultrasonic • Safe for gold and gemstones. • Ammoniated cleaner. • Quick-drying, clear, petroleum cavitation and for use with Duo­ • Adds sparkle in minutes. • For use with all L&R rinses and distillate. Lube and Solo-Lube lubricating. • For use with an ultrasonic. ultrasonic watch cleaning systems. • Leaves no oily film . • Fast-drying, won't break down. 230.079 $30 230.063 $38 230.065 $36 230.066 $36 Free shipping on L&R Solutions when purchased in multiples offour gallons. CALL 1-800-487-0408 Cas·~rrCo. FAX 1-800-487-5848 2550 CIVIC CENTER DR PO BOX 31167 LOCAL PHONE 513/674-7700 FAX 513/674-0600 CINCINNATI OH 45231-0167 Shop our web site: www.casker.com axe