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A publication of the Community Services Center Centered 2021 FALL &WINTER ACTIVITIES CATALOG INSIDE on TAIPEI 2021 Vol. 22|01 SEP 2021/8/29 5:23 PM Sept 21 cover.indd 2 2021/8/29 5:23 PM CONTENTS September 2021 volume 21 issue 1

CSC SPORT From the Editors 5 Ready to Bounce Back? 7 September 2021 Center Gallery 6 Book Club 6 CULTURE CSC Business Classified inside back cover Want to Write a Book? Hang On, it's a Wild Ride! 9

POETRY Nimen dong ma? 11 Chinese Poet Xu Zhi Mo (Part I) 12 Publisher Community Services Center, Taipei Editor Suzan Babcock Co-editor Richard Saunders Advertising Manager Naomi Kaly SUPPLEMENT Magazine Email [email protected] Tel 02-2836-8134 2021 Fall & Winter Activities 17 Fax 02-2835-2530

FOOD Printed by Farn Mei Printing Co., Ltd. 1F, No. 102, Hou Kang Street, Shilin The Happy Gourmet 4 District, Taipei The Secret to Great Coffee 19 Tel: 02-2882-6748 Fax: 02-2882-6749 E-mail: [email protected] ENVIRONMENT Jane Goodall: Our Children, Our Future Leaders 22 Centered on Taipei is a publication of the Community Services Center, 25, Lane 290, Zhongshan N. Rd., Sec. 6, Tianmu, Taipei, Taiwan Agents of Change for Our Environment 24 Tel: 02-2836-8134 The Rise and Fall of a Coral Kingdom (Part I) 27 fax: 02-2835-2530 e-mail: [email protected] Correspondence may be sent to the editor at coteditor@ TRAVEL communitycenter.org.tw. Freelance writers, photographers and East Rift Valley: Hualien County 29 illustrators are welcome to contact the editor to discuss editorial and graphic assignments. Your talent will find a home with us!

Copyright 2021. All rights reserved. Material in this publication may not be reproduced without the written consent of the copyright owner.

COT is printed on FSC certified 100% post-consumer recycled fiber. The paper is certified in accordance with the rules of the Forest Stewardship Council which promotes environmentally responsible, socially beneficial and economically viable management of the world's forests. https://ic.fsc.org/

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Sept 2021_p3-end.indd 3 2021/8/29 8:32 PM FOOD The Happy Gourmet Adam McMillan’s Delicious Seafood Delight

INGREDIENTS 1 green capsicum (thinly sliced) 3 green onions (bulb and 1 inch of stem), chopped 120 grams sharp cheddar cheese (grated) 10 medium shrimp (shell, head, tail off; I like to use Australian tiger prawns. I also save the shells and heads to make a reduced shrimp sauce for a little extra kick.) 2 strips bacon, fried and diced 1 380-gram bag riced cauliflower

INSTRUCTIONS 1. Sauté the shrimp and remove from pan. 2. Add riced cauliflower and stir for 5 minutes, or until the moisture has evaporated. 3. Add the cheese and stir until melted. 4. Add capsicum, green onions, bacon, shrimp and gently mix Serves two people together until well blended. Preparation time: 10 minutes 5. Serve immediately. Cooking time: 8 minutes

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Sept 2021_p3-end.indd 4 2021/8/29 8:32 PM COVER IMAGE: Power in Numbers installation A collaboration with Scubar on the Please send email submissions, comments, and feedback to beach in Fulong, August 17-19th, 2021 FROM by La Benida Hui [email protected]. www.rareawareness.com, THE [email protected] EDITORS Plastic Bottles:1638, lighters: 55, Bottle caps: 68, food packaging: 46, cutlery: 27, plastic bags:16, styrofoam: 11 bags, At a recent Zoom meeting, the topic of the “new normal” Total trash bags: 65, Total weight: 273.1kg generated a lot of discussion. Rather than hashing over a 10hrs of cleaning (1day, 2 shifts, 14 people) doomsday list of negatives, however, the participants focused on and presented pro-active thoughts and suggestions for COT Team community engagement. Several community organizations and resources were mentioned, among them the Community Services Center and the Center’s community-based magazine, Centered on Taipei (COT). The Community Services Center (or the Center as it’s affectionally known) was established in 1987 to address a need Suzan Babcock Richard Saunders Naomi Kaly KC within the international community for professional counseling Editor Co-editor Advertising Manager Graphic Designer services in English. Currently, the Center’s counseling services coteditor@ [email protected] naomi@communitycenter. graphicdesigntaipei. communitycenter.org.tw org.tw weebly.com and team of highly professional and dedicated counselors, psychologists and consultants are augmented by many programs Featured Contributors and activities which continue to be community-based, and are a valued approach for connecting with and better serving the international and local communities. COT was established in 2000 by the Community Services Center. As a comprehensive cross-cultural community-based English lifestyle magazine, it is an important resource for the Dr. Dorothy Bonett Daniel Cunningham Kenneth Dickson La Benida Hui Center and the diversified communities which it serves. For the past 21 years, COT has also been an important resource and cross-cultural volunteer community platform for sharing articles on a wide range of topics including trends, travel, food, literature, art and photography, education, business profiles, fashion, health, counseling and the environment. Kelly S.C. Kok Elizabeth Lam This month’s issue of COT focuses on different aspects of Taiwan’s environment, with Dr. Jane Goodall: Our Children, Our Art, Photography and Writing Contributors Future Leaders by Kelly S.C. Kok (Executive Director of the Jane Dr. Dorothy Bonett Hsu Family Archives Joseph Reilly Goodall Institute Taiwan), The Rise and Fall of a Coral Kingdom Daniel Cunningham La Benida Hui Richard Saunders by Elizabeth Lam, and Agents of Change for Our Environment by Kenneth Dickson Kelly S.C. Kok Rosemary Susa La Benida Hui. Heather Gatley Elizabeth Lam Taiwan Squash Thankfully, the Center is now able to resume Mandarin The Jane Goodall Louis Lam Grace Ting Institute Taiwan Virginia Lee language classes along with a fun-filled catalogue of activities Jess Gosling Adam McMillan to choose from. To whet your appetite, check out renowned Taiwanese chef Ivy Chen’s class Taiwanese Please, for healthy Pick COT up at: vegetarian recipes, or the Iconic Taiwan Embroidery Workshop Uptown: with Kara Walls, or create your own stylish pair of origami Community Services Center, No. 25, Lane 290, Sec. 6, Zhongshan North Rd. earrings with Naomi Watanabe at her Using Origami for Creating Sprout – No. 33, Sec. 7, Zhongshan North Rd. Beautiful Earrings class. George Pai’s Beauty – No. 14, Tienmu East Rd. Downtown: Ooh Cha Cha – 207, Sec.2, Nanchang Rd. Sue and Richard

Accountant Monica Cheng COMMUNITY SERVICES CENTER Programs Manager Rosemary Susa Director of Development and Events Helen Peterson The Community Services Center (CSC) is a non-profit foundation. CSC provides Coffee Mornings Coordinator Leslie McFarlane outreach and early intervention through counseling, cross-cultural education and Communications Pia Munk-Janson life skills programs to meet the needs of the international community in Taipei. Mandarin Chinese Teacher Gloria Gwo CSC offers the opportunity to learn, volunteer, teach and meet others. Check out Samson Debele our website www.communitycenter.org.tw and drop by The Center to chat with us Systems Manager about our programs. You can also email us at [email protected]. Counseling Interns Ximena Lopez

Director Adam McMillan Volunteers Miyuki Boice, Gwen Harris, Leslie McFarlane, John McQuade, Bunny Pecheco, Lucy Torres Office Manager Grace Ting Bai Win Antiques Counselors I-wen Chan, Katherine Chang, Hui-shiang Chao, Benefactors European Chamber of Commerce Anne Cheng, Jung Chin, Chiao-Feng Chung, Cerita Hsu, Grand Hyatt Taipei Lily Lin, Miranda Lin, Emilie Ma, Kuang-Shan Wan Concordia Consulting Consultants Anne Cheng, Tom Cole, Wendy Evans, Mary Lagerstrom, Premier Sponsors ICRT Michael Mullahy, Sofia Vintimila San Fu Global

Counseling Admin. Joanne Chua

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A percentage of all proceeds of items sold at the Gallery will go to the Center. Please remember that by displaying your items or shopping at the Gallery, you will be helping the Center to continue to provide valuable services to the international community. Gallery@CENTER SEPTEMBER WALL ARTWORKS BY VANDANA MENGANE

Vandana Mengane is an Indian artist based in Taipei, Taiwan. Her work specializes in unique creations which use clay, acrylic, oil and water colors on various bases like canvas, wood, fabric & necklace string. She has created a platform called Anahata Artisan. The focus of Anahata Artisan's creation is on the characteristics of Anahata which are blessing, peace, harmony, love, empathy, purity and compassion of one towards self and towards others. The exhibition at the Community Services Center will focus on color therapy and meditation. All paintings will highlight seven important colors that can help enhance our physical and mental health.

PORCELAIN DECAL ART BY MASAKO LIANG SAHAR SHAIKH

Sahar's collection includes necklaces, chains, hand- crafted silver jewelry embedded with semi- precious stones, tops and Masako Liang presents her beautiful porcelain tablewares, tunics in cotton prints and spoons, plates, teacups (in the shape of a rice steamer) and silks and lightweight scarves bowls, decorated with vintage and cute modern Taiwanese in dazzling, vibrant colors. and Japanese designs.

NEW BOOKS BY LOCAL AUTHORS MORNING BOOK CLUB Never Forgotten - American Gods The Story of the Japanese Prisoner of by Neil Gaiman, 2001. War Camps in Taiwan during World Date: September 14th War II After three years in prison, Shadow by Michael D. Hurst MBE has served his time. But as the ISBN: 978-986-89430-1-8 Price: days and hours until his release tick NT$1200 away, he can feel a storm brewing. Two days before his release date, his wife Laura dies THE GOLDEN KHAN - in a mysterious car crash, in adulterous circumstances. The secret to absolute power Dazed, Shadow travels home, only to encounter the by A. H. Wang bizarre Mr. Wednesday, who claims to be a refugee from a distant war, a former god, and the king of ISBN: 9574383156, America. Disturbing, gripping, and profoundly strange, 978-9574383153 Gaiman’s epic novel sees him on the road to the heart Price: NT$450 of America. Basis for the 2017 Starz TV series.

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Ready toSquash Bounce courts reopen Back? after four months of closure during the nationwide level- three epidemic alert.

TEXT: DANIEL CUNNINGHAM IMAGES: TAIWAN SQUASH

ack in the summer of 2017, when I relocated from Shanghai to Taipei, there was a hefty question weighing on Bmy mind - Where can I play squash? I grew up playing squash in the UK, where it’s considered a niche sport, despite having a sizable community of players and several world-famous clubs. In Taiwan, however, there can’t be more than a few hundred people playing squash on a regular basis. Having played in Shanghai, I’d heard wrote a message to the Taiwan Squash Taiwanese squash player of all time, and of decent players in Taipei. Squash organization on Facebook, asking for resident coach at the club. Although spread across the region from Hong their advice on where to play. They I played there for three years, often Kong, Singapore and Malaysia, but it’s were very helpful and after a lengthy practicing with his father Devin (who’s a yet to reach the level of popularity that discussion, they convinced me to join a legend of the Taiwanese squash scene) other racket sports like badminton and club called Go Gym at Taipei Stadium. and his students (some of whom are tennis enjoy. The reason I decided to join Go Gym formidable players in their own right As I was packing my bags for Taipei, I was James Huang, the most successful too) I’ve yet to get on court with James.

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during the soft lockdown, this is a great time to get active and pick up a new sport. The health benefits of squash are formidable. It’s a high intensity sport and the top players can burn over a It wasn’t until a few years later, thousand calories per hour. after I gave up my membership at Go On top of that, you can make new Gym, when I finally met the Taiwan friends, practice your language skills Squash folks who originally helped me and maybe open doors for the future. out. Spookily, the organization was Squash is growing in popularity all co-founded by James’ younger sister. around the world, especially at the Taiwan Squash is a team of five top US colleges, which all have varsity squash-aholics (pictured above, right squash teams. to left): Tigger, Tina, “Squashman” If you’ve never played squash before Ray, Jimmy and Johnny. Nowadays, I then why not hire a coach? Taiwan regularly join them and a larger group Squash recently launched a new of players on court at NTU sports website, which lists the locations of center. public squash courts nationwide, and Daniel Cunningham is There are actually lots of squash where you can find a coach too. International Project courts all across Taipei, which are Visit the official Taiwan Squash PR and Marketing publicly accessible and not expensive website to learn more: www. Manager at DDG Taipei, specialising in to play on either. The average price taiwansquash.org cultural and creative industries. He was is NT$100-200 per hour, and you can You can also watch matches from the International Media Liaison of the often just turn up to play without a all of the tournaments hosted by 2018 Golden Pin Design Award and the reservation. Taiwan Squash on their official YouTube Golden Pin Concept Design Award. Since many of us have put on weight channel and Facebook page.

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Sept 2021_p3-end.indd 8 2021/8/29 8:32 PM CULTURE Want to write a book? Hang on, it’s a wild ride!

TEXT: JESS GOSLING IMAGES: WEB

hen I first thought about international teachers contacted me if I could write a guide to support writing a book, I hadn’t through the website, and it occurred these teachers, one that focused on realized the personal to me that this information could also an exciting and rewarding alternative journey I would embark support a much wider audience. So, career path overseas. With this in mind, Won. There was so much I didn’t know I set up a Facebook page and group I began to reflect upon what teachers about the new skillsets needed, such as called New to International School needed to know to successfully the style of writing a book, the cover, Teachers, which aimed to specifically relocate, such as a good overseas correct formatting, and publishing support teachers contemplating location and school, and once this was the final work. In addition, the project a move, or those who are new to in place, how to thrive when living and would require deep reflection on the teaching overseas. teaching abroad. However, I didn’t teaching experiences of both myself Through both my group and other just want to present my viewpoint on and my colleagues. The idea of such UK-based Facebook teaching groups, this, so I started to research and post a text had developed from my blog, I became aware that many teachers questions on international teacher www.jessgoslingearlyyearsteacher. were unhappy in their home countries. forums, as well as having discussions com. Through creating and developing Some teachers were suffering from with my colleagues. this blog I came to realize how much exhaustion, they felt over-worked, I began to rework my original blog, there was to say about being an and often experienced a lack of which became a basic outline of the international teacher. support from senior management book, from which I could draw out It was midway through 2020 that I in their school. Reading these posts, chapters and sub-sections. I worked started my blog, which centered on I recognized that their experiences through the text with my editor, current what teachers needed to do to teach had mimicked some of my own back and former colleagues, and shared the internationally, as well as my personal home. I left the UK in 2009, after I had blog with others, who gave me lots of experiences of international teaching. I become frustrated by the poor working much-appreciated feedback. then considered the best way to share conditions in state-maintained schools. However, juggling full-time work and this writing, which I decided would be After my Facebook group had been developing the book most evenings through my own website. Prospective online for several months, I wondered started to take a toll on me. I gave

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myself very little time to decompress daughter embraced me and told me and relax, as I simply didn’t know she was proud. It was a relief, but also how to. As the Christmas holidays a terrifying moment. What if it wasn’t approached, I felt I needed to take a good enough? break, but at the same time, I carried No matter how many colleagues a pang of nagging guilt for not sending had read and applauded my work, as further work through to my editor. At always, there was still a nagging doubt one point I took a week off to “slow it wouldn’t be well-received by the down” and didn’t work on the text. public. Several days after the publishing Self-reflecting on this time, I realize date, however, I received positive that these “breathers” between writing reviews from strangers, who included chapters were helpful, as I was able to a director of an international teacher slow down and give colleagues more recruitment company. This was a time to return the edited texts. turning point for me, towards believing After this short breather, I returned my work is valuable and good enough to writing in January. By April, I was for publication. nearing the end of the drafting and To conclude, writing the book was re-drafting process, and came to what an all-consuming, but fascinating, I considered would be the penultimate experience. The challenges of self- chapter. I explained to my editor designers through the online group, publishing were both frustrating and that I was done, as I didn’t think I Fiverr, I decided upon one who used challenging at times. In the final stages, needed to detail the different types InDesign software to create book the sheer magnitude of the task felt of international teachers and their interiors. His work looked beautiful, overwhelming. experiences which we had originally with dropped caps and strong headers, However, my expertise developed, discussed. Upon hearing this, my editor although I provided lots of suggestions as did my understanding of the paused, then told me that she felt that and feedback during the design of the importance of working with others this was one of the most important text, too. on what I had first considered a solo parts of the book. So, somewhat The designer expected a fully project. Through collaboration, the text reluctantly, I returned to the text. reviewed, finished piece of work, so was authenticated, expanded upon What I hadn’t expected was how there was a very tense moment after I and developed, providing excellent much I would thoroughly enjoy sent the work back with text changes, insider knowledge. I also learned to creating those final chapters. I only for it to be returned abruptly in slow down, to be patient, and wait for wondered how best to represent the complaint. My heart sank, as I was so feedback, as some of the best insights varied experiences of international close to finishing. I was honest with him, from others took time. teachers. This section, I knew, would explaining that as a self-published author I feel proud that I have accomplished need to be approached differently I had no idea of this process, and I was this huge task, and my knowledge of from the remainder of the book to truly sorry. Following this discussion, and self-publishing has grown significantly. fully authenticate the thoughts and promise of a tip to compensate for the My little blog has transformed into experiences of others. I involved them extra work, his responses returned to his something which may inspire unhappy in the writing process by distributing usual upbeat style. teachers or those considering leaving questionnaires which provided detail- Meanwhile, I was finding out how the profession, to follow the advice rich replies and valuable insights and to obtain an ISBN number in Taiwan. contained in the guide thus giving them feedback from spouses, teachers with Through responses on Taipei-based the confidence to change their lives by children, teaching couples, single Facebook forums, I discovered I should teaching abroad. teachers, and other expats involved in apply through the website of the My book is available worldwide, both education. National Library in Taipei. Immediately, digitally and in paperback: When I had finished these last I became worried about this task as https://jessgoslingearlyyearsteacher. chapters, I assumed my work was done. I struggled to understand a website com/book-launch/ However, there were further milestones translated through Google. However, to reach. I began by investigating how with a little support via the helpdesk, Jess Gosling is an to create a great cover. the National Library issued ISBNs for international Early Years For this, I enlisted a group of trainee both my digital and print copies. teacher, currently working in designers. At first this didn’t work out, This process of finalizing the book Taipei. Her teaching career so I began to mock-up my own images occupied my mind and time for more of over ten years has taken her on adventures around the to guide their design, and after a month than four weeks, three of which were world, including Egypt and Vietnam. She of revisions, the cover was completed. in my school holidays. I felt guilty for likes to blog, and regularly writes articles the time I wasn’t reconnecting with At this point I naively thought the for numerous publications, including design of the interior of the book would my young daughter. Nevertheless, the Times Educational Supplement. She be straightforward. after such a lengthy process, the recently authored her first book, Becoming After researching several interior moment came when I hit “publish.” My a Successful International Teacher.

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A Teacher's Day appreciation poem for Gloria Gwo, The Center's Mandarin instructor 你們

Nimen dong ma? TEXT: HEATHER GATLEY IMAGES: HEATHER GATLEY & WEB 懂嗎? They came from the west and they came from the east, they all had one purpose, to learn some Chinese. The weather was hot and the Center was cool, and so in September they all started school. A is for Alex, who grew up in Spain, she told me that I should behave on a plane. There was Becca and Michelle who wore the same frock, the first learned quite quickly, ‘cos she was a doc. There was Lotte and Susan, who’d both been a nurse, I felt very safe, when things got much worse. And Jason the expert at gambling for sausage, flew way off to Texas and quite off the message. We had Takta and Lilian and Lila at first, they moved on quite soon as we followed the course. We had Sarah with twins who spoke Japanese, and told us of boats and the US sea breeze. Heather Gatley is a retired English literature teacher who likes to write There was peerless Virginie who passed all the tests, about her travels. You can read more she left us all standing and ate no frogs’ legs. of her work in the online magazine With a ni yao and mei you she soon knew the drill, Memoirist.org She was born in Cyprus and has lived in Singapore, Peru, El and was fluent in no time which made us quite ill! Salvador, Switzerland, Germany, Spain, And have I neglected to mention someone? The Netherlands and Wales, and now lives in Taiwan. She has four chapbooks Maybe because I was being hen mang. of poetry available on Amazon.co.uk: Oh Gloria, our laoshi, what can we all say? Indigo Sky (about Wales); Tombs of Gold (England); Last Boat to Just thank you so much for the great memory! Brienzersee (Europe) and The Cliffs at Qingshui (Asia)

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TEXT: PROFESSOR DR. DOROTHY BONETT IMAGES: HSU FAMILY ARCHIVES

inety years ago in China, in fell in love with English culture and 1931, a poet came crashing literature. down from the sky. His This was surprising. Chinese at the airplane slammed into a time tended to think of Europe as Nmountain and he died. His name was having an inferior culture, though they Xu Zhimo. The nation went into intense knew that it had better technology and mourning. The thirty-four year old Xu more military might. Chinese civilization had only been writing poetry for about is five thousand years old and they ten years, but in that time, he had had been at the center of Asia for all not only transformed a five thousand of that time. Even when “barbarians” year-old tradition, but had become a succeeded in conquering China they celebrity who was much beloved. Xu’s had always realized the superiority influence remains strong today; it’s rare of the Central Nation, and adopted to meet a Chinese who cannot recite its knowledge and its ways after a some of his verse. He is indisputably time. When Xu entered King’s College, China’s greatest modern poet, but he Cambridge, however, in fall 1921, it is not yet well known in Europe and was clear that he was not dealing America. This is a pity because he was with barbarians there. The beautiful perhaps the most international of buildings at King’s are hundreds of Chinese authors, and did a great deal to years older than anything he had seen open China up to influences from the in China, and the natural surroundings rest of the world. impressed him even more. It was Xu Zhimo was born in Xiashi, the people he met, though, who Zhejiang Province, on January 15th, influenced the young man the most. 1897. Qing dynasty China was on Xu met literary lions like Katherine the defensive. The “Century of Mansfield. He became friends with Humiliation,” had begun in 1842 with Arthur Waley, E.M. Forster, Roger Fry the First Opium War and China had and Goldsworthy Lowes Dickinson. been forced to sign a series of unequal They learned from each other. He read treaties, losing territory; sovereignty; voraciously — Keats, Wordsworth, respect. Xu’s father wanted him to Joyce, Baudelaire. Thomas Hardy was a have a Western education thinking particular favorite (they also met). And that this would lead to success. So Xu became determined not just to write Xu learned Chinese classics, but Chinese poetry, but to write poetry of a concentrated on preparing to study certain kind. He wanted to write xinshi: abroad, like many elite Chinese “new verse.’” youths of the time. In 1918, he went What was meant by “new verse” in to America, studied at Clark College, China at that time? This was poetry got his B.A. in 1919, and then earned in the vernacular — the language an M.A. from Columbia University in that people spoke. In 1921, this was 1920. Then he left America for England, a very new idea. Understanding this where he planned to continue the is key to understanding Xu Zhimo’s study of government and finance. He accomplishment. All literature in wanted to become China’s Alexander Chinese at the beginning of the 20th Hamilton and help his nation by century was written in the classical creating a modern system of banking. language called wenyanwen. This is a But something unexpected happened different language from modern Chinese in England. Xu Zhimo fell in love. He – at least as different as classical Latin

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is from modern Romance languages. Italian models to write the first great was in England, too. She had left and he The difficulty of learning to read and vernacular English verse. Here is my was following her home. For her sake, write meant that a large segment of translation of his most famous poem, he had already gotten the first modern the population was illiterate. Language written in 1928. divorce in China. reform was thus a necessary task if Xu published his poems in the China wanted to become a modern new literary magazines beginning in nation. Xu was not the first person to 1922, and his first book, Zhimo de shi, Dorothy Trench Bonett’s realize this fact, and reformers such as (Zhimo’s poems) appeared in 1925. A award-winning book Hu Shi (1891-1962) had been working Night in Florence followed in 1927, and Broad Sea and Empty Sky contains the largest number with this problem. By the 1920s they then Tyger! (titled after Xu’s translation of poems by Xu Zhimo ever translated had succeeded in creating clear and of the poem by William Blake) in 1931. into English. She is also the author of Cloud concise vernacular prose. But although The posthumous collection Repairing the Sky: Tales of Myth and poetry had been written (Hu Shi himself Wandering was published in 1932. Magic from Old China. A Yale graduate, had made attempts) the “new verse” Xu left Cambridge and returned to she lived in Taiwan and taught at the was unsatisfactory. Critics had begun to China in 1922. This was because he had Chinese Culture University in 1981. say that true poetry in the language that fallen in love with a woman while he people spoke might be impossible to achieve. Then Xu Zhimo began to publish his poems. He was not the only important Cambridge, Farewell Again modern poet to begin to write at this time, but he was the first to be really 再別康橋 successful in his attempts, and he was the best. Somehow, he managed to take foreign forms, and even meters I came to you softly, Cambridge. (often drawn from English) and meld And softly I say goodbye. them with everyday Chinese language, I wave a hand in a soft farewell creating poetry that reads naturally, To the clouds in your Western sky; is memorable and is also extremely lyrical. It was an achievement which The gold willows on your river's banks-- rivals that of Chaucer using French and Are the twilight sun's new brides, And their lovely shadows in the lights of the waves Move in my heart like its tides.

In the soft mire under the water, Green plants swagger luxuriantly In the gentle waves of the river Cam I gladly a plant would be.

That pond in the shadow of the elms Not a clear spring, but heaven's rainbow-- Colors crumbling in algae white as milk Drizzling rainbow dreams below;

Looking for dreams?--grasp a punting pole And through green grass punt upstream, Stars' radiance will fill your boat In those stars' refulgence--sing--

But I hear no flutes, no pipes tonight And I have no voice to sing. Even the insects seem struck dumb On this summer's evening--

In silence I came to you, Cambridge, In silence I say goodbye; I shake my sleeve as I say farewell, Xu Zhimo (徐志摩) is also Romanized And I take not one cloud from your sky. as Hsu Chih-mo or Hsu Tsemou (his preference)

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but also its best historic towns and Fall & Winter cities, brightest traditional festivals, unique Chinese and aboriginal cultural riches, and its little-known natural wonders such as eternal flames, mud volcanoes and badlands. Together, Taiwan 101 Volumes 1 and 2 present Taiwan’s finest attractions to anyone who wishes to get to know this island of kaleidoscopic charms, and comes with detailed information on getting around by public transport, and accurate GPS coordinates of nearly 800 fascinating places.

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— Kobe Bryant, LA Lakers

— Fred Couples, 2012 Senior Open Champion 2021/8/30 2:34 PM

— A-Rod, NY Yankees FOOD

Centered on Taipei is celebrating its 21st anniversary and is pleased to present this special Anniversary article The Secret to Great Coffee

TEXT: KENNETH DICKSON IMAGES: KENNETH DICKSON & WEB

f you decide to start making your coffee is roasted and ground, it begins own coffee at home, you'll be to lose flavor, no matter how well it tempted to buy the fanciest coffee is packed. Popular and even premium equipment on offer. Everyone always ground coffees are roasted up to Iis! Just yesterday a sales assistant in eighteen months before consumption. Sogo offered me a “great” deal on Even whole beans that are packed a grinder and coffee maker from a in the same way will fare better than reputable brand. It cost over NT$4,000! ground coffee. Moreover, grinding the I'll share a secret with you: the beans just before you use them will give secret of good coffee lies in the careful you a much better cup; air, moisture purchase of coffee beans, nothing less, and time all take their toll on the nothing more. Treat the coffee with flavor of coffee. Why let them? If you respect when you grind it, brew it, and grind before you drink, you'll begin to drink it. That's all! appreciate how making an effort with your coffee can really bring benefits. #1 CHOOSE GOOD-QUALITY COFFEE BEANS ROASTED VS. BURNED? Many popular brands of coffee in It's all about the coffee. It always has the supermarket also roast quite dark. been. So when you're thinking about Dark roasted coffee beans tend to taste beans, and will disguise their unique your coffee in the morning, keep to similar because the longer roasting time qualities. these principles and you won't go far blurs the original flavor profile of the This is a deliberate decision by the wrong. purveyors of coffee to brand their Avoid buying pre-ground coffee, coffee with their own flavor profile. especially in the supermarket. The It's also an effective way to make the coffee was roasted months before at most of cheap coffee beans. So put that a date that isn't clear to the buyer. three-pound can of "Arabica Blend Dark You can determine the approximate Roast Ground Coffee" back on the shelf roasting date by checking the "sell-by- now, please! date" and the shelf-life. Shocked, aren't you? Worse news is that as soon as the REGIONAL VS. BLEND Blending coffee beans is a typical strategy of large coffee companies, because they can create coffee brands with their own unique characteristics. Blending also helps to balance one set of characteristics against another. So, for example, you can add a fruity or citrus note by including Ethiopian Yirgacheffe coffee in your blend. Or you can add a bitter note, by including a little Robusta coffee, just like espresso roasters do in Italy. Most commercial coffees are made by mixing beans that have been professionally roasted, blended and marketed by the big coffee companies like Starbucks Verona Roast, MJB or Douwe Egberts. But once you begin to explore the

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finer beans, you'll notice that those days after roasting for the fuller flavor machine at home to do it for you. It characteristics can produce really good profile to emerge. Purchasing coffee won't make much of a difference if you coffee. Whether you're looking at that's been roasted within a month is use the coffee quickly. regional varietals, like Panamian Geisha, ideal, but you will not be able to find But nothing says fresh coffee more Hueheutenango from Guatemala's such coffee in a supermarket, especially than when it's made just after grinding. highlands, or Tarrazu from Costa Rica. for imported roasted coffee beans. So buying a grinder is essential if you Look for local vendors who roast really want to make the most of your FRESH VS. ROASTED their coffee regularly, or daily. You'll coffee. Of course, you'll also need to But the biggest difference is the most get the best coffee at great prices from learn how to grind coffee and maintain obvious: no matter how much you pay a local vendor. In Taipei, there are your grinder, but it's worth it. for the coffee beans, the delay between an increasing number of small-scale, roasting and consumption will have artisan roasters, as well as coffee chain a significant impact on the resulting stores, too. coffee. So, before you buy your next Louisa Coffee sells regional varieties batch of coffee, check the roasting date. like Kenya A++, Guatemala, Colombia, It's fine to leave the coffee for a few Yirgacheffe, all of which are roasted within a few weeks. Cama Cafe also roasts their coffee right in the store, with similar varieties and a few local favorites. Moreway has a broader range of coffee, including Brazilian Ipanema, Malawi AA + Pamwamba, etc. Up in the city, you'll find good NO, NOT THE BLADES coffee at Fong Da Coffee, Fika Fika Let's get it out of the way: the only Coffee, and at Wilbeck's branches kind of grinder you shouldn't buy is throughout the city. a blade grinder. They're electrically powered grinders that mash your #2 GENTLY GRIND gentle, fragrant coffee to smithereens. For many people, it's the grinder GRIND AT THE TIME of first choice because it's available Most coffee shops sell small bags everywhere and at a cheap price. For of coffee, between 200g and 250g, so me, it's best kept for grinding spices. asking the retailer to grind your coffee But the real issue is that the beans is a smart move, if you don't have a aren't ground properly: some kernels remain quite large, others get ground to a superfine level. To even out the grinding, many users tend to grind for a longer time, which impairs the flavor because of the heat generated by the high speed of the blades.

BURRS, BURRS, BURRS Focus on a ceramic burr grinder of some vintage: they're available in hand-powered models, which you manually grind the beans in the grinder by rotating an external handle. It's a novelty for a while, but not the best solution for those in a hurry to get to work in the morning. Oh, and don't let water into the grinding unit, or you risk rusting the mechanism. There are many models in the market place now, including some portable units, so you can make fresh coffee anywhere. The Hario Coffee Hand Grinder Skerton won't go wrong with its variable settings for grinding coffee from coarse to espresso grade. It retails from about NT$1,000 and up. You'll also

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some great coffee by buying a quarter pound of coffee from your local coffee roasters. The cone is quick to use, easy to wash, and makes a variety of coffee. There are two kinds of cones available in the market right now: the traditional cone with the flat base (the cheapest), and the modern V60 cone, which has a circular hole. The traditional cone comes in two sizes, for one or two people. It is also found in a variety of materials. The V60 is more expensive and requires its own papers. plated glass beaker versions. Yet it's one find other models from competitors at Just remember: use a tablespoon or of the simplest ways too. good prices, too. coffee spoon to measure your coffee! Grind your coffee to a medium Try to keep the water about 85C or 90C, coarse grind. Measure into the bottom ELECTRIC, OF COURSE otherwise you risk cooking the grounds, of the glass pot. Add hot (NOT boiling) The electric burr grinder is probably and having a tasteless cup of coffee! water into the beaker. Let it brew for the best model for most people. Set Also, watch the grind level, too coarse about 45~60 seconds, then add the and forget operations mean that and it will come out like water; too fine, remaining water. Plunge the pushing you can use it daily without hours of you'll end up with grounds in your cup. handle gently down until you reach the tweaking. Aim for a medium-fine grind. top of the hot water. Truth be told, there is no upper Then steep at least three minutes. limit on how much you can spend on a FRENCH PRESS You can use a timer if you need to. The coffee grinder. The French press is the most coffee won't get too cold during that Some of the Baratza coffee grinders glamorous method to make coffee, time, so don't worry about that. Finally, retail from about NT$7,000 upwards, especially if you buy one of the gold- gently but firmly press the plunger right though you can find good deals. The down to the bottom. Serve into the Flying Horse Brand (飛馬牌) which cups and enjoy! is well-recognized here, costs from Just remember: it's glass filled with about NT$3,000 to NT$18,000. One of hot water, so don't drop the jug, don't their models has been sold in Costco chip it, don't put metal objects inside for a while now. The Capresso Infinity it, and don't knock it. The last thing you Grinder is a good choice, comes with want is a jug of hot coffee shattering. hard-wearing steel burrs, and looks When finished, rinse gently and leave good in any kitchen. It retails from to drip dry. If you have a dishwasher, about NT$4,000. make sure that the French press can be Most of the coffee grinders washed safely in it. mentioned here won't be found in the The French press, v60 cone, coffee roasters, so you might need a traditional cone, spoons, timers, and little help from a Chinese-speaking thermometers are available at most friend to track them down from a better good coffee shops. Now, promise me department store or online store. you won't share my coffee secrets with For those exploring grinding options, anyone! Of course, you won't… but it's worth remembering that it's the people will be asking how you make coffee beans that make the coffee. your coffee taste so good. It's going to Therefore it's not necessary to spend be hard not to. a lot of dollars at the outset. Just focus on the best beans and a good quality grinder. That's it.

#3 SIMPLY MADE Kenneth Dickson started drinking COFFEE CONES cappuccino at Luvian's My first coffee maker was the Coffee Shop thirty years ago, and hasn't stopped drinking, simplest of all, a plastic drip filter or making and writing about coffee ever cone. The cones are very affordable. since. Taipei is his coffee heaven. Now For little more than $350, purchase he writes at PurelyCoffeeBeans.com a cone and some papers. Then make about his love of coffee.

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Jane Goodall: Our Children, Our Future Leaders

TEXT: KELLY S.C. KOK IMAGES: THE JANE GOODALL INSTITUTE TAIWAN

his August, scientists from the tirelessly around the globe to spread grandparents. The children choose UN's Intergovernmental Panel her message. She started the Roots & their projects, and once they know the on Climate Change (IPCC) Shoots program in 1991 in Tanzania problems, they are empowered to take issued a code red alert for the with twelve high school students. Her action. Tworld – we must act quickly to cool the message is simple: every one of us Now, this program is about to take Earth down, or face increasing extreme makes an impact on the planet every shape in Taipei in the most amazing heat waves, droughts and flooding. day, so we should learn to choose form. The Jane Goodall Institute (JGI) Slashing our carbon emissions globally wisely and ethically. in Taiwan is launching the Jane Goodall by 45 percent by 2030, and reaching Every Roots & Shoots group chooses Sustainability Academy this August. It is a net zero by 2050 will help keep the three projects: one to help people, an experimental elementary school that temperatures from rising to more than one to help animals and one to help embodies Dr. Goodall's message in full: 1.5C before pre-industrial levels. the environment. The Roots & Shoots only when we understand, do we care; This is what Dr. Jane Goodall has program is now in 65 countries. only when we care can we act; only been saying for years – we must Hundreds of thousands of members when we act shall all be saved. get together and take action NOW. from kindergarten through university Over the last two decades, JGI Taiwan Since 1986, she has been traveling are influencing their parents and has developed a very successful Roots

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& Shoots Program locally. It has been nurturing many children to become young activists with a keen interest and willingness to actively show care and concern for people, animals and the environment. The new experimental school is for children from ages 6 to 12, and will be a natural extension of the Roots & Shoots program in Taiwan. The Jane Goodall Sustainability Academy offers an exciting curriculum that is transdisciplinary and inquiry-based. This means that the children will be learning in inquiry units that integrate social and natural sciences, language, arts and other disciplines. Inquiry-based learning is the key to cultivating a keen interest in learning, especially when the topics are relevant. The Roots & Shoots program is a common thread that runs through all levels, engaging students in Roots & Shoots projects throughout their learning journey. First and second graders will get their hands dirty planting a wildlife garden, growing vegetables and (hopefully) sharing their harvest. Third and fourth graders will get to understand and reach out to the local community through community projects. Fifth and sixth graders will be connected to Roots & Shoots groups around the world, and engage in relevant global issues. We follow in Dr. Jane's footsteps “It is important to connect our younger generation with when we allow for the creation of meaningful nature. A school that embraces Roots & Shoots ideals is connections between our head, heart and hands. a really wonderful idea as it will cultivate in its students a Another integral part of the curriculum is its lifelong passion and concern for the natural world. They will emphasis on eco-literacy. Field trips are planned be equipped with knowledge that will enable them to speak once a week so that students will have ample up for the animals with whom we share the planet. They will opportunities to connect with nature, and learn to read the signs of nature. learn how to live sustainably on Planet Earth. They will learn It is our mission to develop internationally- respect for each other and for other life forms, and be well minded people who, recognizing their common equipped to become future leaders.” humanity and shared guardianship of the planet, — Dr. Jane Goodall help to create a better, peaceful, and sustainable world.

For further information about the Jane Goodall Institute in Taiwan, visit www.goodall.org. tw. For enquiries about the Jane Goodall Sustainability Academy contact Katie at academy. [email protected]

Kelly S.C. Kok is the Executive Director of the Jane Goodall Institute Taiwan.

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Agents of Change for Our Environment

TEXT & IMAGES: LA BENIDA HUI

n 2014, I sailed from Bermuda to Iceland with the (L.A. based) non- profit 5Gyres. I spent twenty days with thirteen citizen scientists Icollecting data researching micro- plastic distribution, and the impacts it has on our ocean environment. The 1,600-mile journey was life changing. The ocean sparkled like disco lights from phosphorescent waves during my night shift, a pod of dolphins danced by the side of our boat, and we saw the sun set and rise within an hour as we neared our destination: Iceland's

midnight sun. It instilled in me awe and From left to right (top) Marcus Eriksen, La Benida Hui, Brett Edwards, Sergio Izquierdo understanding that “Home” is more than the roof over my head: it’s also of flooding this island with art and tried new projects and expanded the Oceans, our Animal neighbors, and environmental workshops and events through partnerships and community Planet Earth. highlighting World Turtle Day and World art programs. At the time I had just made a decision Ocean Day. We ran beach cleanups, Looking back at six years exploring to settle in Taiwan and was introduced created beach art installations with how art can make an impact on a to Xiao Liu Qiu, a magical coral island trash, painted community murals, and small island, and despite cultural and and home to hundreds of green sea started an environmental club at the governmental challenges I was able to turtles. I was in love. I focused my island’s junior high school. Every year achieve the goals I had set for myself. time and energy with a simple strategy we improved on what was working, I now feel confident locals have heard

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Midway Collide-O-Scope Logo, this represents the constant movement of the ocean, and location of Midway Island

Sea Dragon 72ft (22m) sailing vessel built in the UK in 2000. Formerly known as CB 37, she is one of 11 second-generation yachts built for the Global Challenge Race – one of the longest, most demanding ocean voyages ever made with an upwind, west-about 32,000km circumnavigation.

Above: World Turtle Day Art (2016), Xiao Liu Qiu beach art installation (three days)

Left: Xiao Liu Qiu “Precious Turtle Protector” Environmental Club school mural

I learn about the complexity of the plastic industry I regularly ask myself what more can I do for my “Home?” A seed formed years ago of curating an international exhibition: a platform of learning that would enable me to reach more people and raise awareness. After many false starts and constant changes to the proposal, Marcus Eriksen (co-founder of 5Gyres) committed to be a part of the team, and this year of World Turtle Day and World Ocean I had in mind was to be passed on the R.A.R.E. exhibition titled Midway Day. The island has become more for others to complete. Already the Collide-O-Scope has finally taken environmentally friendly, as a reusable importance of environmental art shape and blossomed. At the heart cup scheme was put into place and education was at the core of my of this exhibit is a quote by DaVinci: young artists and non-profits have practice, and I still take the time to “To develop a complete mind: Study stepped in to establish a regular Eco work on my art which has shifted to the science of art; study the art of marketplace, and organize exhibitions. I include micro-plastic pieces and Taiwan science. Learn how to see. Realize that knew by then the zero-waste “painting” indigenous patterns. And the more everything connects to everything else.”

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Above: (SuperHero Fish) - Xiao Liu Qiu Primary School Artists, Topic: Green SuperHero Fishes, they have the unique power to spread love, move at the speed of light and suck up waste to recycle. Left: Xiao Liu Qiu environmental art class in local primary school Below: close-up of Power in Numbers installation art

Seven years later, I unite with the mountains of toxic trash to a natural three artists on board the 5Gyres environment of pristine beaches and expedition through our art. My wildlife. Here, though the island is companions are Brett Edwards from Los declared a protected area and is far Angeles, an environmental rap singer; from civilization, disturbingly large Sergio Izquierdo from Guatemala, now numbers of animals die from ingesting a National Geographic (Latin America) plastic. The kaleidoscope represents our photographer and BBC videographer; fractured world; through its eye hole and Marcus Eriksen, a retired marine we see the colorful patterns made by who served in the Gulf War with a plastic particles. And the metaphor of a Ph.D. in Science Education, and a self- broken Nature challenges all of us – the taught artist. Our parallel paths, using whole world – to take action and fix it. art, science and education to bridge The exhibit was originally scheduled the disconnect with Nature are woven to open in June, but with the Level Sergio Izquierdo, Shin Kong Life, and together at The National Museum Three semi-lockdown in place, Starpoint, Inc. Cheers to the following of Marine Science and Technology in museums were closed. Therefore we individuals: Nigel Anderson, Sue Keelung. had to come up with creative ways to Babcock, Andy Chen, Anne Dewees, The exhibit's name, Midway Collide- promote it through social media and Yan-Lyn Lin, You-Xue Lin, Jenna Lo, O-Scope, is a play on words. In the live streaming events. We recently Sharlene Ma, Roma Mehta, Oshani middle of the Pacific Ocean between worked with a dive shop in Fulong Perera, Iverson Rangi Miciq, Karina America and Asia lies Midway Island. called Scubar, which hosted Blue Dot Clark & Jacob, Wang Yi Bing & the Alumi This is where the ocean’s mega- Mission, a one-day 100 bag coastal of Nu Shi Elementary School, Rui Zhen, currents meet and collide, bringing cleanup challenge, and from it we Betty Lieu, Fu Mei, Lin Xiu Zhen, Yue Ji, created a one-day color installation Xiang You Yi and The Hui Family. titled Power in Numbers, categorizing and recording the content of the trash. Upcoming projects we are planning involve Red Room artist La Benida Hui holds collaborations, Red Room workshops a BFA in Illustration and museum events. The exhibition from Parsons School will be on till early February 2022, of Design, New and will be traveling on to Hong Kong York, with a two and hopefully to another venue in the year certificate in Art Education and United States. continued studies at Dalvero Academy. Her founding of Rare Animals Really We would like to take this time to Endangered (R.A.R.E.) serves as a acknowledge and thank the following means to combine her love of art and volunteers, sponsors and supporters her ambition to impact environmental for their time and dedication: we could restoration. Her environmental not have done it without your help and programs expand into community art encouragement. The National Museum projects, environmental art workshops PlasticPromoStall - used at events our of Marine Science and Technology and exhibitions in New York, Hong Environmental Club stall is used to promote (Team), 5Gyres, Indigo Waters, Impact Kong and Taiwan. www.rareawareness. Plastic Awareness to tourists and inspires them to Take Action. Eco Wear, Lite ON, Mr Eco, Rihting, com, [email protected]

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The Rise and Fall of a Coral Kingdom – Part I

TEXT: ELIZABETH LAM IMAGES: LOUIS LAM

huge tropical rainforest lies contain plant-like organisms P. acuta larvae in the sea off the subtropical called zooxanthellae, which island of Taiwan. It’s as rich are microscopic algae that in biodiversity as a tropical remove metabolic wastes, Arainforest on dry land. It feeds a and produce oxygen and organic thousand types of fish species, breeds products via photosynthesis, which thousands of shellfish species, and corals need to grow. harbors green sea turtles. It used to be Coral communities are under threat called the coral kingdom, and can be from global warming, overfishing and found off the shores of Kenting, Green pollution (such as oil spills) among Island, and Orchid Island. other menaces. On June 22nd this Don’t get me wrong: corals aren’t year, an oil spill resulting from a plants like the trees in a rainforest. Even ruptured pipeline at Darlin Oil Refinery though corals are sessile (which means (operated by CPC Corp.) in Kaohsiung they permanently attach or “root” City reached the coral reef island of themselves to the ocean floor), they’re Xiao Liu Qiu. Approximately 25 metric animals. They do not make their own tonnes of crude oil leaked into the sea food, but use their tentacles to capture and threatened wildlife both offshore P. acuta settlement food from the sea and sweep it into and along the coastline. Coast Guard their inscrutable mouths. They also Administration officers quickly applied

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P. acuta settlement

observed them over six, twenty-four, and forty-eight hours. This research will be continued for six months, but they have already discovered that larvae released into polluted seawater had the lowest rate of settlement. Settlement is an important yet sensitive stage in the growth of coral because larvae are relatively fragile, and without settlement, they can never transform Researcher collecting sea water into a polyp, the building block of a coral reef. oil-absorbing cotton and oil booms to the seawater off Kenting’s shores in Can the heat-resistant cauliflower contain the slick by the following night, the laboratory with lab-bred coral coral (P. acuta), which can survive a but the spilled oil continued to affect larvae taken from a cauliflower coral higher temperature of seawater, also the coastline of Xiao Liu Qiu for the (Pocillopora acuta). This coral species conquer a new enemy, toxic crude oil? next few days, and spread to Hengchun was chosen due to its high tolerance Scientific experiments are continuing, Peninsula and Kenting National Park of heat, owing to its habitat in the reef but as consumers, we can do our bit by on June 26th. The ecological threat of close to the outlet for Taiwan’s Third reducing and reusing plastic products, oil pollution like this is a permanent Nuclear Power Plant, which has been reducing our daily power consumption, danger. constantly releasing heated water and taking more public transportation According to the National Oceanic into the ocean over the past thirty to lower our dependence on oil. and Atmospheric Administration years. Corals that could not stand the The coral kingdom will be grateful for (NOAA) in the US, oil spills generally heat died out, but professor Tung your contribution. harm ocean life in two ways: by fouling and his team found out a few kinds (oiling) and oil toxicity. Fouling occurs of coral, including the cauliflower * Resource and data: Tung-Yung Fan when oil physically harms wildlife, coral (P. acuta), survived, and they’re such as by coating the feathers of sea experimenting on breeding and birds, leaving them unable to fly, or transplanting the coral with the aim covering sea turtles and making it hard of restoring bleached reefs, using for them to breathe. Oil toxicity caused heat-resistant corals. After several Elizabeth Lam is a sea by toxic compounds in oil can cause breakthroughs, the team recently found glass artist and lifetime severe health problems and even death the cauliflower coral (P. acuta) releases explorer, who creates if ingested. Toxic compounds from oil larvae every day (most corals reproduce artworks by the spills can also affect the process of monthly or annually), which makes it a inspiration of nature. ingestion, growth, and reproduction stable and accessible research object in corals, decreasing reproduction for more quickly combating the damage rate, and increasing the rate of coral caused by oil toxicity. bleaching and death, according to Dr. Researchers have been testing the Louis Lam is a Tung-Yung Fan, a research fellow of the seawater since the oil spill reached graduate Marine National Museum of Marine Biology Kenting. The team collected polluted Biologist who fell in and Aquarium at Kenting. seawater from two areas, Shanhai and love with the ocean Could oil toxicity be another threat Wanlitong, with two control groups: because of his father. to the coral reef in Kenting National unpolluted outlet water and artificial He is passionate for conservation and Park besides global warming? To find seawater. To collect their results, protection of the ocean. To save the out the answer, professor Tung-Yung researchers released coral larvae into ocean, he realizes that he has to start Fan and his research team are testing these four types of sea water and from the bottom - the reef.

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RICHARD SAUNDERS EXPLORES TAIWAN'S LESS-TRODDEN PATHS

East Rift Valley: Hualien County TEXT & IMAGES: RICHARD SAUNDERS

Mugumuyu

aiwan’s gorgeous East Rift willing to overlook (or detour off) the Valley, between Hualien and unattractive dual-carriageway for the Taitung cities, is renowned for first hour or so south from Hualien. It its unspoilt, lush, and above gets better the further south you drive! Tall quiet and peaceful countryside, but Meanwhile, on the way there are one before you pack up the car and head or two fabulous detours just off the for Hualien, it’s worth doing a bit of route to get away from the noise and research. Yes, parts of the East Rift fumes. Valley are all that and then some, and My first recommendation if you then other parts are, well… really not must drive south from Hualien would like that at all. be to avoid Route 9 altogether until If you’re planning a trip to either you’re into the many charms of the the East Coast or the East Rift Valley Beautiful South by taking route 193 National Scenic Area, if time is short, a (described in the last issue of Centered (very general) rule of thumb is stick to on Taipei). Otherwise, pick up route 9 the northern (Hualien) half of the coast, as it leaves southern Hualien city and Phoenix Waterfall and to the southern (Taitung) half of gird your loins for a slow-motion fight the rift valley, both of which are a lot with countless other noisy cars and unattractive initial slog. quieter and less developed than their lorries. There are loads of traffic lights Instead get the journey off to a good respective other halves. along the first twenty kilometers of the start by turning almost immediately The Hualien County half of the road, and the speed limit is an absurdly off highway 9 onto its quieter sibling, East Rift Valley is still well worth low 60 kmh for most of the way, so 9丙, which follows the wide, rocky doing If you’ve got time, and are you can’t even zoom through this bed of the Mugua River canyon, with

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Tropic of Cancer monument

Mugumuyu

jawdropping views right up to the and if you’re on a scooter, make a short roof of the Central Mountain Range. A but fun detour up to the tall, thin and short detour off the highway is magical very lovely Phoenix Waterfall just above Mugumuyu (Mukumugi; 慕谷慕魚) a the town of Fenglin. Car drivers (unless fabulously beautiful valley threaded by prepared to walk up the very steep, very a stream of piercing, emerald-colored narrow approach road to the waterfall) water. It always seems to be closed to should drive south until the fascinating tourists nowadays, but if by chance old Japanese logging station at it opens again, try and grab a permit Lintienshan (now an open-air museum) and take a walk through it. It’s a true about twenty kilometers south. fairyland in there. The East Rift Valley is quite rich in hot A little further along 9丙 is the springs, although almost all of these beautiful, clear expanse of Liyu Lake, have now been developed into resorts a very popular spot at weekends, but of varying luxury or otherwise, so don’t very lovely and well worth a stop. expect to bathe in unspoilt natural Route 9丙 soon rejoins highway 9, beauty at Fuyuan Hot Springs (although there is a good waterfall here), or at the old Japanese-style resorts at Ruisui Hot Springs (瑞穗溫泉) and nearby Liyu Lake Hongyie Hot Springs, a bit further into the mountains. About three kilometers south of Ruisui, highway 9 crosses the Tropic of Cancer, marked by a curvaceous white monument right beside the highway. It is (naturally) a very popular stop for tour buses and so tends to be regularly swamped on weekends, just across the busy road a couple of hundred meters north, a small side lane cuts across the broad curve of the highway to a vastly more Richard Saunders is a trained intriguing place, the mysterious twin classical musician and writer who monoliths of Taiwan’s finest remaining lived in Taipei from 1993 to 2018. prehistoric standing stones. The Saoba He has written several hiking Stone Pillars (the taller of which and guide books (available at the stands over 6 meters tall), are thought Center and in bookshops around to have been erected here by people Taipei) covering the whole of from the mysterious Beinan Culture Taiwan, and its offshore islands. Saoba Stone Pillars (卑南文化), over 3,000 years ago.

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