This narrow alley is so Japanese, isn't it. Is Hello! Is someone here? there really a house at the end?

(Julia, 28, is modeling in Japan. She is from the vast Russia and loves traveling ♥ )

2012 Oct&Nov 2012 Oct&Nov 08 09

What a lovely room! This will make my trip to a hundred times more fun!

(This gorgeous Japanese townhouse is one of many of Kyo Machiya Stay's: "Minoyamachi." To learn more, see our special feature.)

2012 Oct&Nov 2012 Oct&Nov 10 11 JQR SPECIAL in Kyoto

京都 Traveling Kyoto like natives Experiencing Machiya Kyoto has a history spanning 1200 years. Since time immemorial, it has nurtured a mesmerizing breadth and depth of tradition and culture. To touch upon the heart and soul of Kyoto, it is best to immerse yourself in the traditional lifestyle. We suggest a leisurely stay in a machiya townhouse, the dwellings built many years ago for the common townspeople, in order to explore and appreciate the hidden charm of the city. It will unlock the door to a realm of travel.

Photography: Satoru Naito Text/JQR Editorial Staff

MACHIYA

2012 Oct&Nov 2012 Oct&Nov 12 13 京都 Traveling Kyoto like natives

Lecture by Professor Yoshifumi Muneta JQR SPECIAL in Kyoto Professor Yoshifumi Muneta Born in 1956. B.S and M.S from Hosei University (Faculty of Engineering, Major in Architecture). Four key questions and answers that will help you Studied urban and regional planning at the Universities of Pisa and Rome. Joined the Faculty of Human Environment, Kyoto Prefectural University as Associate Professor in 1993 and develop a deeper understanding of kyo-machiya promoted to full Professor in 2012. Over many years, Professor Muneta has studied revitalization planning for urban centers. Publications include townhouses Theory of Machiya Restoration (Gakugei Shuppansha).

In 1864, many houses in Kyoto were Shedding new light on the kyo-machiya’s charm destroyed by a fire caused by the The charm of the kyo-machiya is now appreciated by the people of Hamaguri Rebellion. The construction of Typical Machiya Layout Kyoto. Their rediscovery of machiya was not so much a result of the workplace-cum-dwelling townhouses conscious efforts to conserve their history, culture and traditions so known today as machiya began shortly much as a consequence of their growing weariness of a afterward. The wooden architecture Kitchen monotonous and unexciting urban lifestyle. Courtyard provides a special nostalgic atmosphere It’s been almost 70 years since the end of the war, but

to the city’s landscape. Even today, contemporary architecture has failed to create a landscape that

the remnants that epitomize the way outshines the ambience rendered by machiya townhouses, both of living as practiced by the original individually and collectively, as well as the streets surrounding inhabitants and their wisdom and Storehouse Garden them. The people who have lived in great historic urban centers Reception around the world, like Paris and Florence, know how to appreciate innovative spirits abound. To help you Shop Space the beauty of kyo-machiya, which are to them at least on an equal understand the true charm of machiya footing with the urban splendor of European cities, and they know architecture, we asked Professor how to enjoy life based on that appreciation. Machiya were first Yoshifumi Muneta, a machiya expert discovered by artists as attractive spaces to live and work. Young and researcher advocating machiya people with good taste followed suit.

restoration efforts, to answer four key The long-time residents of machiya are also re-discovering their

questions. beauty, which lies below the superficial surface.

What is the reason for the narrow front and deep rear of What is it like to live in a What are the special features Is it true that machiya houses Q the machiya structure? Q machiya? Q of the machiya structure? Q are disappearing? Like the old urban cities in Europe and Asia that served as Most machiya houses today are equipped with modern Machiya townhouses exist across Japan and their For the residents born before the war, occupying their A commercial and industrial centers, Kyoto was populated A amenities, including a full range of kitchen equipment. A characteristics are as varied as their locations. Kyo- A family’s machiya house for their entire lives was the norm with merchants and tradesmen who desired street-facing However, the real character of machiya housing lies in machiya, or machiya in Kyoto, are known for their lavish rather than an exception. However, many post-war

storefronts, and this resulted in plots shaped like thin strips. They are traditional elements, like the ambience only mature wooden houses use of relatively elaborate and delicate materials and their light, generations have left their machiya for detached homes in suburbs

cousins to schieras, linear houses and shophouses. Kyoto natives can emanate, and the tsuboniwa miniscule garden, which conveys supple construction. The building technique of placing columns on and condominiums. A growing number of the younger generations

mockingly call them “eel’s beds.” Many people mistakenly believe changing seasons and the fresh smell of well-trimmed trees and cornerstones is an ancient one commonly used for shrines and who left machiya for suburbia don’t know what to do with a machiya

that the narrow frontage was a result of the tax assessment practice, plants. Even today, many residents alter interior elements of the temples. Although not permitted under the current building standard once they inherit it from their parents. While they don’t want to give

which was based on the width of the property facing the street. In house, such as sliding doors and fixtures, twice a year to match and act, this construction technique has been proven to offer superior up a prime property in the inner city, they also don’t want to face the

fact, the tax practice was enacted after these townhouses were built. supplement the summer and winter ambiance. Meticulous preparation seismic resistance according to recent studies, which confirm that the cost and effort of maintaining a machiya, which may already be in a

Even today, however, some neighborhood associations assess is also required to set up the interior of machiya for monthly events columns absorb the seismic power as the quake displaces them out frail state. The City of Kyoto advocates the preservation of machiya,

community activity charges scaled to the width of the frontage. The and annual festivals like Matsuri, but machiya owners also know of the cornerstones. Larger kyo-machiya houses are made up of but disappear from the map each year for the aforementioned

shape of the land had added design benefits, like allowing residents that the joy of welcoming guests to their freshly decorated houses is multiple structures such as a front section, principal house, reasons. On the other hand, a growing number of residents and shop

to build a workshop, storehouse or garden filled with trees and plants immeasurable. Kyoto natives take exceptionally good care of their storehouse and an annex. The storehouse is made of clay and is proprietors are now interested in renting vacant machiya to give new

in the rear to suit their tastes kimonos and other belongings because they are essential to a extremely fire resistant. In the past, people used the storehouse to life to them.

lifestyle firmly anchored on the traditional seasonal rituals and store their valuable kimono and obi.

2012 Oct&Nov customs of the city. 2012 Oct&Nov 14 15 京都 Traveling Kyoto like natives

Houses that withstood the test of time are Machiya are often accused of being too dark, bleak and devoid of frills, but they are the product of hard work beautiful in and of themselves. and craftsmanship by carpenters, as well as the ingenuity of common folks who racked their brains to devise a house that would ensure comfortable and pleasant living for the many generations of family to come. What it means to live in a machiya We asked two machiya residents to share their stories. Photography: Satoru Naito Text/JQR Editorial Staff

The Ono Residence is a typical machiya representative of the omoteya-zukuri style. Its storehouse (built in 1903) and principal residential quarters incorporates Built in the early Showa era, Furukawa’s machiya is relatively new. the Sukiyabashi design. The playful sprit of the carpenters can be seen Compared with its elder cousins, its ceilings are high, and some rooms everywhere, including a unique design that takes advantage of a curve across the are western style. Nonetheless, it is built in the classical omoteya-zukuri storage bins just below the ceiling. In January 2012 the Ono Residence was architectural style, which typically combines the residential and working selected by the City of Kyoto as one of the “buildings and gardens worthy of spaces. “I was pleasantly surprised at how comfortable it was to live in a preservation in recognition of its contribution to the city landscape.” machiya,” notes Furukawa. “I anticipated more inconveniences.” My machiya is like a prodigal daughter. She splurges a lot, onotei but I love her dearly. furukawa Machiya are the manifestation of a lifestyle. “I bought this machiya simply because it looked the right distance – very comfortable. And a “This machiya was built by my maternal great His family understood his deep affection for the ono great, but the truth is I didn’t know anything machiya is very quiet. In summer, the wind blows Furukawa grandfather in 1929,” Furukawa explains as she house and have done very little to alter it. As a about it,” Haruhira Ono confides. He had to enlist in from the gardens and lowers the room ushers me into a sun-drenched reception room result, this machiya’s original shape and glory is the help of a master carpenter and a college temperatures. The difference between indoors and facing a garden. The house is notable for its well preserved. tei professor who lectures on machiya. Armed with outdoors may be as large as five degrees Celsius.” tei abundant use of glass, a fixture that began to enter Only after Furukawa moved into this machiya six 235 Yakushicho the knowledge gained through these lectures, In winter, however, the house gets very chilly. Ono’s 516 Kikuya-cho, Kami- the life of people only in the Showa era; hence the years ago did she understand the wisdom of the 1-Chome,Matsubara-sagaru Ono was finally able to establish a “dialogue” toes were covered with frostbite during the first chojimachi-sagaru Kameya- rooms are unusually well-lit, unlike most machiya people involved in the construction of this house, Yamato-oji Higashiyama Ward with his machiya, which he loves dearly. “But I winter. “To cope with the winter chill, I realigned cho dori Kamigyo-ku houses. It features luxury materials like Yakusugi which was very much centered on how to let its warn you, she is a real money eater.” For his my thinking a little. I just bundle up even while I am cedar for the second-floor ceiling. inhabitants lead a pleasant life. “This house is the machiya, which had been vacant for 10 years home. This way, I’ve had no problem surviving the “My great grandfather was a kumihimo (cord- manifestation of a pleasant lifestyle. And I have prior to his purchase, he had to spend five million freezing winter with just one kerosene heater since braiding) craftsman, and he was not particularly come to appreciate it.” yen just to harden the foundation. my second year living here,” Ono says. “Thanks to wealthy. But according to his daughter, who is my What Furukawa discovered were the unspoken The beauty of a machiya lies in its spiritual my machiya, my body and soul are completely grandma, he was ‘scrupulously diligent’ and didn’t insights into life that her ancestors left many years charm, according to Ono. “I feel totally relaxed in attuned to the four distinctive seasons and their fool around or splurge on drinking or hobbies, and ago. here. When you sit down on the mat, the passage.” His machiya has become his beloved poured all the money he earned into this machiya.” space between your head and the ceiling is just nesting ground. Haruhisa Ono Rieko Furukawa Imahara Machiya Furukawatei’s rear reception room overlooking the garden is available for nabe pot parties. Lunch is also served, on Fridays only. For a reservation, call 075-203-5169. Mr. Ono is willing to share his machiya with overnight guests (one group per day). For details, call 075-531-2601.

Carpenters’ expertise and “Machiya are like boxes containing a lifestyle, and heritage and no longer remove the lattices, there is floor of the doma space with a floor covering or install of demolished machiya to refit the one being connections are key to the successful they wouldn’t have existed had it not been for the one less reason to preserve the full functionality that modern kitchen components. If indoor lighting is not renovated, since some fixtures, like hand-blown glass revitalization of machiya houses. lifestyle in need of that box, and as the lifestyle that the machiya offer. As a result, some residents decide adequate, we create a skylight out of the atrium ceiling plates, are no longer produced. Restoring a machiya requires machiya is disappearing, so are the reasons to demolish those doors to make room for a garage and we refit mushiko windows (windows covered with requires the ability to coordinate all aspects of the Hirohisa Tomiie is an architect who advocates the to live in one” Tomiie explains. “For instance, the space. I have been involved in machiya house slits cut into plaster walls) on upper floors with work involved, and being able to build a house is not restoration of machiya houses. Machiya provide agility and degoshi wooden lattices that cover a machiya’s doors restoration projects for two years, attempting to bring aluminum panes. enough. I am learning a lot from the carpenters. They Hirohisa Tomiie mobility to their inhabitants. Houses do get older, but are removable. During the Jizo-Bon festival, the lattices back their traditional character and shape.” Some earthen walls were covered up with veneer are not only fully versed with traditional building Registered Class-1 replacing the malfunctioning parts is all it takes to prolong Architect, Tomiie are removed so that the street and front chamber are “Restoration may entail repairing warped frames, boards in the past and as a result the walls have techniques, they know where to go to find the right Architectural Design Firm the life of a machiya. For this, the expertise of carpenters is spatially connected, and children are allowed to enter refilling earthen walls and replacing old beams with deteriorated. To rescue the original walls, we strip off material for refitting. Their connections are absolutely essential, says Tomiie. and exit the house as they please. As a growing new ones for added strength. We try to stay true to the the veneer to allow the walls to breathe in fresh air. indispensable.”

number of residents decide not to observe this cultural original floor layouts. We sometimes finish the bare We buy and clean second-hand fixtures that were part 2012 Oct&Nov 2012 Oct&Nov 16 17 京都 Traveling Kyoto like natives

MACHIYASTAY

The true pleasure of travel is the fun of blending in. Experience a “Machiya Stay”, the “Iori” way

Hideki Kajiura, President of Iori Co., came up with the idea of restoring empty machiya, or traditional Kyoto townhouses, and providing visitors with an experience completely different from staying at a typical hotel or Japanese inn. We asked him about the story behind that effort.

Photography: Satoru Naito Text/JQR Editorial Staff

Hideki Kajiura Graduated from the University of Tokyo Faculty of Law. Joined the Japanese National Railways (JNR) in 1980. After leaving JNR in 1987, served as director and advisor to several companies before establishing Iori Co. in 2003. Serves on a number of committees for the Ministry of Economy, Trade and Industry and the Agency for Cultural Affairs.

2012 Oct&Nov 2012 Oct&Nov 18 19 京都 Traveling Kyoto like natives The luxury of relaxing in an elegant machiya

Learning the art of travel In my two years in Kanazawa, I they’d say, or “Machiya are cold, dark, from co-workers learned what it’s like to travel where I and cheerless—no wonder they’re lived, and that gave me a hint: Why disappearing!” And of course, seeing as After college, I joined the Japanese couldn’t I turn an ordinary home I was from Tokyo, I couldn’t get anyone National Railways, and it wasn’t long somewhere into accommodations for to trust me. before I found myself assigned to work visitors, rather than having them stay in The days stretched on as I suffered in in Kanazawa. This was the first time I’d hotels or inns? That was when I came to obscurity before finally, one day, I made lived there, so naturally I spent time Kyoto, and first encountered Kyoto-style the acquaintance of a real estate agent learning my way around. That was when machiya. who was actually trying to preserve I first experienced the generosity of the Kyoto really provides the ultimate stage Kyoto’s traditional machiya. local people, as co-workers showed me for creating a new concept for tourism. I was so happy the day I finally got hold around their city. For one thing, it is Japan’s greatest of my first usable machiya, but I knew In spring, we’d head to the mountains to sightseeing destination, with over 50 one alone wouldn’t make a business, so pick wild vegetables and dig for bamboo million visitors a year, 20 million of I waited until I’d lined up three of them shoots. Stopping at a friend’s house on whom stay in the city. If tourism in Kyoto before I started renovations. That effort the way back, his mother would cook changes, it has the potential to change began with basic repairs to these what we’d gathered, crowding the table the entire country. abandoned and damaged properties. with dish after dish, which would fuel Across Japan, about 100 sites have I had pictured creating comfortable living the drinking that followed. Those were been designated by the government as spaces and using quality materials. And really fun times. In the summer, we’d go important traditional architecture yet, the carpenters didn’t get it—we just to the home of a friend in Noto who ran preservation districts, including beautiful didn’t connect. I’d spend a few days a guesthouse, and take early-morning old castle and temple districts, merchant staying in each machiya as it was trips on local fishing boats. No sooner and port towns, and farming and fishing completed, trying things out, and I’d would we bring back our catch, when it villages. Unfortunately, many of these always find something that need fixing, would appear on the breakfast table as areas also suffer from depopulation, as something else that should’ve been done fresh sashimi, accompanied by hot rice. people age and families continue to differently, more work to be done to give Kanazawa also has hot springs, and move away. I also learned that even the rooms a better flow. The renovations every cherry blossom viewing or farewell some of the most wonderful, cultural weren’t cheap, of course, and in no time party provided an excuse to visit them. It asset-class homes now stand empty. I a few rounds of “just fix this” or “let’s do was surprising to see how the hot thought that if there were a way to make that” would turn into a shocking pile of springs were really just an extension of use of these machiya and other old bills. everyday life for people in Kanazawa. private homes, it would not only give One of my bosses even took me to the these regions a boost, but perhaps could old entertainment quarters in even attract visitors from abroad. I Higashiyama, where we had fun decided to give the idea a try first with carousing with the . All of these the machiya of Kyoto, turning them into things I experienced while I was young places to stay. This being a tourist business, I wanted left me with the sense that every place to find machiya that were conveniently in Japan has its own idea of a good No end of trouble gets me located. Land in Kyoto proper is time, usually something you won’t find in my first decrepit machiya expensive, though, and since we can’t the course of an ordinary trip, or in the afford to buy them, we lease all of our pages of any travel guide. My decision made, I set up a company machiya instead. in December of 2003. That summer, I Banks, too, are tight with their money started talking with people about the when it comes to investing in other concept of “staying in a machiya as you peoples’ homes. Even with a clear would your own home,” and began business model and a detailed budget it looking for properties, but early reaction was difficult; finding investment capital These pleasures were no longer was less than positive. No matter how I was a real challenge. available once I returned to Tokyo, and I explained the idea of reusing these old And then someone introduced me to the left JNR around the time of its breakup traditional townhouses, real estate Kyoto City Venture Business Evaluating and privatization. In my mid-40s, I finally agents just wouldn’t work with me. “No Committee. decided to do what I most enjoy, and set tourist is going to want to stay in a filthy up my own travel business. old house, no matter how you fix it up,”

2012 Oct&Nov 2012 Oct&Nov 20 21 京都 Traveling Kyoto like natives

At the time, Masao Horiba, founder of those owners whose desire to preserve different from the old sightseeing regimen, Horiba Ltd., was chairman of the the machiya make it possible for us to and we hope people will be happy with our committee. With Kazuo Inamori of do business. efforts. Kyocera and Yasutaka Murata of Murata Going forward, we will continue to build on Manufacturing serving as vice-chairmen, Getting a taste the appeal of these old traditional the committee include an impressive of everyday living, townhomes. In doing so, we hope to lineup of members. The committee gave approach these projects not from a designer’s my presentation the green light, and I While experiencing ideal, but instead in terms of the comfort and was finally able to borrow funds under Japanese culture ease of use of those who will stay in the their financing scheme. Things finally homes. While Iori’s architect is responsible got off the ground once we were able to Our hope is that we can help visitors not for giving shape to the plans, what’s really apply those funds to the renovation only experience Kyoto’s charms, but get interesting and most rewarding about this effort. a taste of the depth and refinement of work is the time we spend on-site, working traditional life here. It goes beyond out the details with our carpenters, plasterers, and other craftsmen. This is why I’m always so happy to hear from visitors The attractions of living in a Once the work was done, who may have come for the media took up our story, Kyoto’s shrines and temples, traditional Japanese home and people who saw the but ended up spending their reports started getting in time lying around at home, or touch, some of them conversely, those who came individuals living in specifically for the chance to condominiums who lounge around in one of our happened to own vacant machiya. Some visitors tell us machiya they hoped we they came to sample Kyoto’s would use. Unfortunately, wonderful cuisine, but spent because we were operating the rest of their time just Hideki Kajiura, President and founder of the Machiya Stay program. in a limited area, we had to He is also working on rural revitalization efforts. relaxing. That tells me we’re turn down offers for homes on the right track. in other districts, but all of this looking for an inexpensive place to stay, There are even a few parties who have eventually led to a system by which the or simple curiosity about Kyoto’s stayed at all of our properties. Over the owners of the homes would put up the machiya; we hope to welcome visitors course of repeat visits, they seem to find funds for their restoration. from overseas who respect Japan’s their favorites. They may all light on one Because the properties remain in the culture, and who appreciate the finer particular machiya, while some may stay in hands of their owners, banks will lend things in their own lives. one place in the summer, and another in the them money for renovations. Once the In Kyoto, the noh and kyogen theater, fall. work is done using those funds, we sit tea ceremony, flower arranging, Since the events of 3.11, in hopes of down with the owners to discuss the calligraphy, and traditional Japanese spreading the word among the Japanese as rent we’ll pay. The rate of return we can dance are all close at hand. Thanks to well, we’ve also provided more opportunities offer isn’t all that great, but the deals get introductions to some of Kyoto’s most for people in our neighborhoods and other done because these owners are truly distinguished instructors, we’ve been residents of Kyoto to visit our machiya. They intent on preserving their traditional fortunate to have their cooperation in can participate in our art project, and several homes. They really think about our developing an arts program that enables times a month we hold tours of our machiya business, and that helps us arrive at a visitors to experience some of these for local residents. Through these efforts, we’ve reasonable rent together. I suppose cultural activities for themselves. Our heard from several people who said they property owners who are more interested aim is to ensure that visitors to Kyoto might not have torn down their old homes if in making a profit off of real estate would enjoy themselves, and for our visitors they’d known they could be preserved so knock their houses down and put up from abroad in particular, that they return nicely. Nothing pleases us more than buildings that would max out their home with an even greater love for providing the motivation those currently still floor-area ratio and serve as an Japan. We work to put forth a new living in their traditional homes need to fix investment, so I’m always grateful to approach to travel, something completely them up and continue living in them.

2012 Oct&Nov 2012 Oct&Nov 22 23 Traveling Kyoto like natives A 600-year old form of 京都 theatrical drama. Strangely, many Noh plays feature ghosts as the main characters. The Noh program is taught by Tatsushige Udaka (Shite, Kongo School) noh and includes lessons on basic movements and demonstrations by the instructor. Participants have opportunities to see exquisite fans, costumes and masks which are actually used on stage.

The arrival of Fukuhiro and Fukunae brightened up the Ochaya- dimly lit room. I was transfixed by the fascinating dance performed by the two asobi ladies in front of the golden screen. Their dance repertoire consists of about 40 works. It was a dream-like 2.5 hours packed with entertainment and games

Comic drama that traces its origin roughly to the same period as Noh. The instruction by Yoshinobu Shigeyama (Okura Kygoen School) will begin with the mastery of laughter. The participant is told to open kyogen their mouth as wide as possible and produce a series of long “ha” sounds from the diaphragm while going down the scale. Shigeyama Sensei makes sure that learning is a fun process, and every lesson is filled with laughter.

JQR highly recommends staying at a machiya Kyoto is an old capital city where traditional neighbors.” Each machiya house is stocked machiya under this system? asobi (entertainment by geiko (geisha) and customs still constitute an integral part of the with everything you need to live like a native, According to Ms. Hongo of Iori Co., the maiko (apprentice geisha) as well as games Machiya stays bring guests closer to the daily lives of its residents. and some have tatami rooms that may be operator of Machiya Stays, instruction in a full and intimate conversations with them in a real charm of Kyoto. To enhance your trip and add new dimensions connected together (by removing fusuma range of traditional arts, from the tea ceremony private party usually thrown in a ) may to your Kyoto experience, we suggest you partitions) and converted into a spacious and flower arrangement to Noh drama, kyogen be arranged and staged right in your own Of course, that all depends on how much or how little you want to explore include some cultural activities in your itinerary, tatami banquet area. These houses are very and ancient martial arts may be given right in machiya. Ochaya asobi may sound too

Your creative horizons will expand enormously even when you are away from home, if a along with the usual tours of places of scenic functional. Since no meals are served by the your “home.” First-class professionals active in exclusive for first-timers, but the geiko and more flexible and carefree use of lodging is acceptable. Why not rent an entire machiya beauty and historic interest. machiya owner, you are free to go restaurant their respective disciplines will visit your maiko in their iconic thick white make-up with house to ensure privacy and pursue special activities? A wide variety of diversions may be We suggest Machiya Stays, which is a system hopping in the city. If you are too lazy to go machiya to personally give lectures. For bright red lips and huge Shimada chignon arranged, including ochaya-asobi (dance, games and cultural conversation with geiko and that allows you to experience Kyoto like a out, you can bring in some liquor and send out ancient martial arts, which require a spacious hairdos will perform music and dance to the maiko), traditional arts workshops and small private events with special guest artists right in your machiya. If you want a cozy dining experience in your home away from home, there native. You rent an entire machiya house in for some ryotei haute cuisine. In a nutshell, you hall to exercise and a large number of tune of Gion Kouta and teach you traditional are many caterers that can fulfill your gastronomic dreams. All you need is the willingness the inner city, and this house will be your home decide what you get out of your stay, and the participants, the Noh stage located at the rear party games like Konpira-Fune-Fune and Tora to try out new things to get the most out of your Kyoto experience. away from home. The people next door will opportunity to experience it will present itself. of the Sujiya-cho machiya may be used. Tora. Their elegant manners and soft-spoken Photography: Satoru Naito Text/JQR Editorial Staff instantaneously become your “life-long What options will be available if you rent Aside from traditional arts activities, ochaya Kyoto dialect is guaranteed to mesmerize you.

2012 Oct&Nov 2012 Oct&Nov 25 24 kitsu- ke

You select a kimono and obi sash from seven or eight options, and a professional will help you put them on. After getting dressed up, you are free to stroll the streets or go out for dinner or other functions

Instructors will bring seasonal flowers suited for the tea ceremony and other accessories and help you arrange flowers in the traditional Japanese way.Your machiya will become a very special home away from home, if you display your own flower works. cha- bana

Luxury of sending out for haute PM cuisine from your “home” Machiya stays don’t come with meals. Why don’t you use a catering service to enjoy your meals in the comfort of your own machiya? Kyoto restaurants specializing in traditional Japanese cuisine and other options are known for their sumptuous meals on wheels, and their offerings are quite extensive.

AM Breakfast catering by Kissa Nakatani Coffee set (\5,000) Includes sandwiches and coffee (hot or iced) for 5 people. Juice may be served as well. TEL.075-525-0823 Catering by Hyoki Hoan Kaiseki Course (\9,240) Kyoto style cuisine looks simple on the surface but is full of seasonal delicacies. This includes:Sakizuke Amuse-bouche/Hassun tidbits/Suimono clear soup/Nimono simmered dish/Yakimono grilled dish/Nakazara middle dish /Sumono vinegared dish/Rice dish/ Pickles/Mizumono seasonal dessert. A menu written on washi Japanese paper accompanies the course.TEL.075-211-5551

2012 Oct&Nov 26 京都 Traveling Kyoto like natives Machiya-houses you ought to stay at while you have

the chance. List of machiya available for Sujiya-cho Townhouse rent through the Machiya Stay program Sujiya-cho ● Capacity: Two to 10 persons, 279㎡ Each machiya has withstood the test of time and is ready to offer guests some unique experiences. Renovations that adhered to the A 130-year-old renovated gem originally owned by a bean wholesaler. This grandiose old traditions were combined with sophisticated furniture and decorations to create a classy and serene ambiance. structure is filled with the charms of machiya, including a doma space highlighted by black stucco plaster, a garden across the reception room that enters your sight as you Photography: Satoru Naito Text/JQR Editorial Staff step into the house, an atrium, an attic room with exposed beams and a Shinto altar. Three tatami rooms, one hardwood floor room, three toilets and one bathtub

Gion Shinmonzen Townhouse Ebisuya-cho Townhouse Gion Shinmonzen Ebisuya-cho ● Capacity: Two to six persons, 137㎡ ● Capacity: Two to six persons, 118㎡ Guests are greeted by seasonal flower arrangements on the back of a partition screen The meticulous attention to detail exercised by a tea-ceremony instructor is evident illuminated by andon lamps as they enter through the latticed entrance door. Relax in throughout this sukiya-themed Machiya. Kakejiku hanging scrolls in the hardwood an atrium with a hardwood floor, a tatami room with a garden view, or indulge yourself alcoves adjacent to the tatami rooms, an unassuming and yet refined display of flower in a Koyamaki pine hot tub. arrangements on the Kamachi floor border, and a tsuboniwa garden that enters your Retro kaidan-dansu stairs with built-in cabinets lead to the second-floor space. sight across another room make this machiya an ideal place for a relaxing respite. Three tatami rooms, one hardwood floor room, three toilets and one bathtub Four tatami rooms, one hardwood floor room, one toilet and one bathtub

Minoya-cho Townhouse Izumiya-cho Townhouse Minoya-cho Izumiya-cho ● Capacity: Two to six persons, 186㎡ ● Capacity: Two to six persons, 109㎡ Guests have to stroll down a narrow alley with a courtyard on the left before reaching an A large screen, a plain tokonoma hardwood alcove and a low table add traditional entrance that dates back to many years ago. The hardwood-floor room on the first floor touches to a tatami room. As you walk to the deck adjacent to the tatami room, you extends to a deck overlooking the Higashiyama Mountains that stand behind the Kamo River. will be pleasantly surprised by the fresh breeze from the Kamo River and a view of the This machiya also has a gallery-cum-corridor and a tea-ceremony room. The spacious and Higashiyama Mountains. The simple, rectangular layout is easy to use. luxurious structure also boasts a large hall on the second floor. Two tatami rooms, one large tatami hall, one hardwood floor room, Two tatami rooms, two hardwood floor rooms, two toilets, one bathtub and one one loft, two toilets and one shower shower

Sanbo-Nishinotoin Townhouse Ishifudono-cho Townhouse Sanbo-Nishinotoin Ishifudono-cho ● Capacity: Two persons, 66㎡ ● Capacity: Two to six persons, 136㎡ One of the semi-detached machiya twins found deep in an alley. This pied-a-terre isn’t The first floor has a tea-ceremony room, a serene tatami room and a bathroom with a physically big, but has many features, including a hinoki cypress hot tub overlooking a garden view.The second floor, which previously functioned as an artist studio, features a garden and a well (not in use) in the atrium-style kitchen. spacious room with a sofa and large picture windows. This hardwood floor space has a A quiet perfect hideaway for a couple. character that is in stark contrast to the first floor. Two tatami rooms, one large tatami hall, one hardwood floor room, two toilets and Nine tatami rooms, one hardwood floor room, three toilets and two bathtubs one bathtub

Nishioshikoji-cho Townhouse Nishijinisa-cho Townhouse Nishioshikoji-cho Nishijinisa-cho ● Capacity: Two to 14 persons, 210㎡ ● Capacity: two to five persons, 134㎡ Classic Machiya elements are well preserved in this townhouse, including an ebony This one-of-a-kind machiya combines a textile studio and residential quarters. A tatami central pillar, thick rafter beams across the ceiling and a tea-ceremony room, complete room with mushiko windows and a hinoki cypress hot tub are on the first floor. The with details like a well in the kitchen and toro lanterns and a tsukubai basin in the textile studio is visible from the hardwood floor space on the second floor. Why not gardens. This townhouse has many rooms, letting it accommodate large groups wake up to the sound of textile looms? A studio visit may be arranged. comfortably. Nine tatami rooms, one hardwood floor room, three toilets and two bathtubs Two tatami rooms, two hard-wood floor rooms, two toilets; one bathtub and one shower

Nishirokkaku-cho Townhouse About Kyo-Machiya Stay Nishirokkaku-cho Kyo-Machiya Stay offers a new mode of Kyoto travelling whereby travelers rent an entire machiya townhouse filled with traditional charm for an ● Capacity: Two to four persons, 93㎡ overnight stay. You are welcome to immerse yourself in the machiya and really experience what it feels like to live like a Kyoto native. Built over a century ago, this cozy machiya is filled with sunlight that streams through Also available are Origin Art Programs, whose instruction offerings cover many Japanese traditional arts, such as Noh drama, kyogen, the tea the Mushiko window slits, shoji screens and the latticed door. The first floor contains a ceremony, calligraphy and ancient martial arts. For details, please contact Iori Co. (Phone: 075-352-0211). tea-ceremony room, a garden-view tatami room and a hinoki cypress bathtub. The http://www.kyoto-machiya.com/ upper floor has a spacious hardwood floor room containing relaxing couches. Three tatami rooms, one hardwood floor room, one toilet and one bathtub From October 26, two new machiya properties in Tamaya-cho will be available for rental.

2012 Oct&Nov 2012 Oct&Nov 28 29 京都 Traveling Kyoto like natives

“I want to run a The French kaiseki restaurant that can be enjoyed casually” says Autumn 2012 owner-chef Shogo Guide to Restaurants, TAMURA Tamura. Much of the crockery is made by Japanese Bars and Cafes in Kyoto artists. Chef-owner Shogo Tamura was born into a family Kyoto, the city of exquisite food. It’s hard to choose from the many renowned restaurants serving everything from that ran an old Kyoto cuisine restaurant. From traditional Japanese kaiseki food to French and Italian cuisine. Here we introduce restaurants where the food is childhood he learnt the work of a chef and trained in a French restaurant in Kiyamachi. He good and the atmosphere is relaxing. If you only have limited time, start by making a reservation. conceived the idea of eating French cuisine with Photography: Satoru Naito Text/JQR Editorial Staff chopsticks and opened the Tamura restaurant five years ago. While cooking French style dishes, he boils vegetables in Japanese soup stock and uses soy sauce in his sauces. Employing Japanese techniques in French cooking adds a rich accent to the food. The first two years were a struggle, but his reputation spread by word of mouth, and now the restaurant is so popular with women and older customers it’s hard to get a reservation.

Tamura Lunch/Three courses: 2,900 yen, 3,800 yen and 5,500 yen Dinner/Four courses: 6,000 yen, 7,500 yen, 10,500 Hors d’oeuvres served in kaiseki style. Roast yen and 13,000 yen French quail in Madeira sauce with sautéed Reservations required TEL. 075-525-7023 foie gras and burdock chips. Accompanied by Closed Sunday and the 2nd Monday of every month taro and burdock, daikon, and brandy simmered 2nd building, Furumonmae kiritoshi-sagaru, prunes. Higashiyama-Ward Kyoto

Gion Okumura French kaiseki TAKUMI OKUMURA/ Japanese cuisine GION OKUMURA

Inside the sophisticated interior of Gion Okumura, NIJYO TSUBAKI the chefs move around briskly on the other side of a bright, simple counter. While it is primarily a French restaurant, chef-owner Naoki Okumura In an alley off Nijō-dori stands a renovated machiya decides whether to use French or Japanese where you’ll find Nijyo Tsubaki. Wine cools in an antique techniques based on a close scrutiny of the condition and seasonality of ingredients. At sake warmer and wooden bucket at a unique counter A circle of sea bass with red wine sauce made with tatami. Spotlights create contours of light and Takumi Okumura, on the other hand, the simple shade. When you sit down at the counter it feels like you’re entrance belies the magnificent and comfortable in a tiny theatre. The food consists of five to seven seating that’s just perfect for the interior. Each traditional kaiseki dishes, with tempura to finish. Both set (left) Wagyu beef with matsutake dish reflects a sense of tradition related to the courses and an la carte selection are available. Open mushroom. (above) Simmered rockfish seasons and festivals. Naturally the food is continuously from 12:00 to midnight, and with breakfast and autumn vegetables delicious, but the appearance is also colorful and available if ordered by the day before, the service is a beautiful. This is a place to go for special blessing for travelers. A range of delicious sake is occasions. available to accompany the perfectly prepared seasonal fish and vegetables that form the core of the menu. If Gion Okumura you’re staying in Kyoto, this is definitely one restaurant Lunch/Four courses: 5,250 yen, 7,875 yen, you should visit. 9,975 yen and 12,600 yen Dinner/Four courses: 10,500 yen, 13,650 yen, 15,750 yen and 21,000 yen Reservations required TEL. 075-533-2205 Takumi Okumura Closed Tuesday Nijyo Tsubaki “My challenge is to 255 Kitagawa Gion-cho, Higashiyama-ku, Kyoto Breakfast/Fukutsuzumi course 3,670 yen (reservations only) extend myself by Lunch/Two courses: 3,150 yen and 5,250 yen Takumi Okumura creating new dishes Dinner/Three courses: 7,350 yen, 10,500 yen and 12,600 yen Lunch/Four courses: 6,825 yen, 9,975 yen, from those I’ve Tempura and other dishes available on request 13,650 yen and 15,750 yen already adapted” says chef-owner Reservations required TEL. 075-256-2882 Owner Mitsunobu Komine. A Dinner/Four courses: 15,750 yen, 21,000 yen, Naoki Okumura. Open on all regular days sake connoisseur with bar 26,250 yen and 31,500 yen 92-12 Enoki-cho, Higashi-iru, Teramachi, Nijo-dori, Nakagyo- experience. He also has some Reservations required TEL. 075-541-2205 Ward, Kyoto rare pure malts and many Open every day brandies tucked away. 570-6 Minamigawa Gion-cho, Higashiyama-ku, Kyoto Colorful hors d’oeuvres to match the season.

2012 Oct&Nov 2012 Oct&Nov 31 30 京都 Traveling Kyoto like natives

Kyoto cuisine Bar&Cafe KURITA Wine bar

Chef Akihiro Kurita trained in a traditional Japanese ryotei restaurant that has been in his Chef Akihiro Kurita WINEGROCERY family for three generations. In 1995 he opened moves busily behind the his own restaurant, Kurita, serving Kyoto cuisine. counter. He does The snug interior with eight counter seats and everything himself, from one table is the ideal size for Chef Kurita, who purchasing ingredients to At the end of a narrow road off Rokkaku-dori you’ll says that “The food will not seem delicious if the preparing the food. find Wine Bar Wine Grocery in an old style temperature at which it is finished does not The seasons are reflected in dishes storehouse. Now remodeled, it once belonged to match the body’s sensory temperature exactly.” a Japanese-style artist, Keinen Imao, who lived He takes no short cuts with preparations, every during the late Meiji and Taisho period. The solid plate served bearing witness to his craftsman- interior of this hidden gem is the perfect space like approach. The menu consists of set courses for enjoying wine. The glass of wine is to be only. The changing of the seasons is clearly recommended. It changes weekly, and there are reflected in the matching crockery. To appreciate two champagnes, three whites, six reds and a this degree of perfection, you would need to dessert wine on the list. If you feel like trying come here every month. them all, ask for a 60ml tasting size glass. You can also enjoy a meal here of escargot, ham, pasta and other foods that go well with wine. Kurita Lunch/Three courses: 2,800 yen, 4,000 yen, “Early in the evening is quiet and a good time to enjoy wine with a meal” says 5,250 yen Wine Bar Wine Grocery Dinner/Four courses: 5,250 yen, 7,350 yen, chef-sommelier Tomo Okada. The Glass of wine: from 900-2,500 yen 9,450 yen and 12,600 yen special menu available until 21:00 is Glass of champagne: 1,800 yen Reservations required TEL. 075-344-0456 good value at 3,200 for two dishes and TEL. 075-255-0117 Closed Wednesday a glass of wine. Closed Sunday and public holidays Shijo-sagaru, Nishikiya-cho, Shimogyo-ku, Kyoto (left) Sashimi. (right) Boiled daikon topped with yuzu miso Nishi-iru, Shinmachi, Rokkaku-dori, Nakagyo-ku, Kyoto

Chinese The hamburger steak.

DAIDENGEKKEN Cafe Cafe

To make Beijing duck raw birds are carefully plucked by hand and marinated whole in a CAFE MARBLE PETIT JAPONAIS special sauce with natural flavorings for a whole day before being cooked in a special oven. Daidengekken’s Beijing duck is so popular thirty The atmosphere inside Michie went from birds are cooked every day. The rich savory this renovated working in a company flavor of the meat beneath the crispy skin is machiya is lively, with to becoming a pastry exquisite. Other delectable items on the menu couples and groups of chef. Now she holds include the shark’s fins, lobster with black Beijing friends enjoying cake-making classes chili sauce, or the fiery hot tofu and meat. themselves. It has a for small groups and Housed in a renovated western-style Meiji-era warm feel, like visiting makes cakes with a building, the restaurant has a nostalgic feel, like a friend’s house, and passion. The café something out of a film set. you could imagine serves seasonal cakes spending a long time as well as meals such Baked kiwi fruit tart and in here. The menu coffee set for 800 yen. as quiche and croque- Daidengekken offers plenty of choice monsieur. Take away Set lunch: from 945 - 2,100 yen such as quiche made is also available and Chinese lunch box: 1,890 yen, 2,625 yen and 3,990 yen with two types of cakes for special Home-style Beijing style course: 5,040 yen cheese and stuffed occasions can be Beijing duck course: 6,825 yen with vegetables, ordered. The passion fruit cream tart and red peach and Shark’s fin course: 10,500 yen scones, lentil curry strawberry tart are each 450 yen. Other items a la carte and homemade tarts. Reservations required TEL. 075-353-9021 Open on all regular days “The tarts, quiche The passion fruit CAFE MARBLE PETIT JAPONAIS 173 Minoya-cho, Matsubara-agaru, Kiyamachi-dori, and everything cream tart and red TEL. 075-634-6033 Shimogyo-ku, Kyoto else is delicious Closed Thursday, and the 1st & peach and Closed Wednesday The master chef because it’s all 3rd Wednesday of every month strawberry tart are 378 Nishimae-cho, Higashi-iru, orchestrating this lively homemade” says Higashi-iru, Bukkōji Tōdōin, each 450 yen. Bukkōji Takakura restaurant is Kenji Ebina, owner Machiko Shimogyo-ku, Kyoto who has experience as Matsuura. head chef in old From top: Fiery tofu and meat, Beijing duck, crunchy deep-fried fish with established hotels and 2012 Oct&Nov fragrant sauce. Chinese restaurants. 2012 Oct&Nov 32 33 Talking About Japan Living in Kyoto を We are sitting quietly outside on the wooden edge of Honen-in temple, facing History, quietness and one of its ageless magical inner gardens. A soft breeze is warmed by a bright convenience autumn sun. The decor is perfectly matching what anyone would imagine being the heart of Kyoto. Except that none of us is Japanese... or at least in う ● appearance. As the majority of foreigners in Japan could only think of Tokyo Joel Stuart 話 そ as their base, for a few some, there is nowhere else than Kyoto on earth. JQR Oussouby Sacko has met with three of them to find out why. Robert Yellin

A Conversation with Foreign Residents

other within 20 minutes like I did this morning to come here. JQR Most foreigners choose to live in We have department stores, Internet, we Tokyo, why not you? can live internationally here, it's not like we're isolated. I decided to move here for You often hear the Japanese say cultural and business reasons. I am like that Kyoto people are difficult to reach, to one of those baseball cards collectors who access, because there are lots of codes. know all the statistics and details about all What I find most interesting is that it is players, but to ceramics. Ceramics come much easier for foreigners, because Kyoto from West Japan, from Kyushu up to people are very willing to teach you all Nagoya. What people call the 6 old kilns those codes and all about Japanese of Japan are mostly in this area. An hour culture. Most of Japanese people coming away from Kyoto you have Shigaraki, or from other regions would never dare to ask Tamba, or Echizen, or Bizen a short train so they create their own barriers. And I ride away. So to be close to the art that I think Kyoto people often reduce the so love, it just made sense to be here. structure of those codes when they are I like the city, so I love to visit with foreigners! Tokyo or Osaka, but Kyoto almost feels But that “distance” is very useful for like the countryside. It is surrounded by me. You can choose to use it or not when mountains, there is a river running right you feel like it. I've ben living here too through it, and I also love nature. I like long, so when I go back to the United- jogging, bird watching, and all of this is States, where people are completely in never far away. I used to go rainbow trout your face, telling you their opinion about fishing on my own when I was ten years everything, I go, “Why do I have to hear old, so when I come here and sit in a this?” traditional garden, it makes me feel some LOL! of that. JOEL For example I have a friend who is The part I like of Kyoto is the Oussouby Sacko Robert Yellin also an artist who lives in the countryside human scale of the city. Unlike Tokyo, From Mali, he studied architecture for 6 years in Ceramics curator, born in New Jersey in the US, of Shiga. There, 5 times a day people just China before moving to Kyoto where he planned to he arrived in Japan in 1984. He has since written where you often can't manage your own finish his studies and get a year or two of work several books and created the world's largest come in, sit on the couch and chat about experience before going back... but that was 21 English language database on Japanese ceramics. movements with the long distances or flow years ago. After years in Shizuoka, he made the move to his paintings. And he likes that attention. Kyoto 15 months ago. of the crowds, here it is easy to decide if Me, I wouldn't be able to get anything you go by bicycle or by bus, it is easy to done if people came. So people here leave understand the city and to manage it your me alone when I do my work and if I want own way. If you want the historical part of to engage, then they come. So that works it, it is right there, if you want the modern for me. part of it there you go, there are nice cafés All that adding to the fact that everywhere, it's very easy to network. Kyoto wasn't bombed during World War II, Kyoto is a living museum just like

Florence or one of those historical cities. Joel Stuart And it's easy to cycle from one end to the Painter, print and installation Artist who arrived in Japan 26 years ago. Originally from Washington State in the US, he finds Kyoto as the ideal work environment for him. Meet our three interviewees!!! 2012 Oct&Nov 2012 Oct&Nov 34 35 with all of it. And it's wouldn't choose Kyoto as their first spot, Well it Kyoto is a very organic city. It all easy access. I unless they have a special interest at can get pretty changes all the time, within itself. Things don't use my car things Japanese and get an opportunity to crowded during are not taken from the outside. And you anymore. teach here for example. It's true that as the peak tourists are in direct contact with “living” history. Kyoto is artists or architects, we were inspired by season! One night You know, people saying their family has made of ancient and Asia from the first place and that is why I thought I could been buying tofu in the same small shop modern buildings, we ended up here. It's a much easier and take a walk for a hundred years, or going to the same problems and natural choice for us. around a temple place since many generations. solutions. It's a place As Joel said before, the to see the autumn A lot of old storehouses have been where you can study a constant contact with nature is very leaves quietly by transformed into cafés or boutiques. You lot, constantly. I teach inspirational as a source for creativity here. myself and.... didn't have those before. two architecture Wherever your eyes wander, you there were The café gathering culture in classes and one of notice nature inspired patterns everywhere! busloads of Kyoto is very old. There are so many so there is charm here that can't be found them is about Kyoto. I don't know why, On roof tiles, sidewalks, sometimes a people shuffling schools and universities, and all the expression, but I think it's particularly in other cities. but.. gingko leaf can be extended to an extreme through as you might do at Shinjuku philosophers were gathering here. difficult to grab the right meaning of things LOL ! contemporary style, but nature is present station! And Kyoto has always been here in Kyoto! JQR What is that charm? During the summer program, we all the time in all different layers of LOL!! avant-garde. A lot of aspects of Japanese Right! have students from Hokkaido to Okinawa. interpretation. Kyoto people are very patient. It culture have been born here and The second thing, I think that one It is to walk and get lost into And the people contributing to this program is a quality, but it sometimes can be revolutionized things. Kyoto is very of the biggest backdrop is that they try to winding narrow streets and every time are easy to reach and make themselves JQR So why not live in the countryside? difficult to deal with. For example I traditional, but also very avant-garde. Many keep everything a little bit expensive here, getting lost leads to a new discovery. available for you. I am not sure people in sometimes did parties at home when I was avant-garde companies were born here too! to keep the high standard Kyoto image. That's been there a looong time. Here Tokyo with their busy lives would be as True, but then you are not younger and my neighbor used to tell me Kyocera, Nintendo... Most of the time they sell things you can when people refer to war, they speak about much easily reachable within such short available to the people who are coming to smiling, “Oh it seems you had lots of fun Tradition is good, but it should find everywhere, but if it is written “Made the Onin war, which was in the early delays. You can always make a little time this city. Over 50 millions of tourists from last night!” So I was just replying by not stagnate. You don't want a fossilized in Kyoto” or “Kyoto Style”, then the price is 1400's. And the city has modernized, so if here in Kyoto. Even just a few hours. inside and outside Japan visit Kyoto each inviting him to the next one, but later on town, so you constantly have to create! higher! you look for the latest gadgets they won't Here people live in a slower pace, year. So you can find both kind of stimuli someone explained to me that he was in True! be concentrated in one area like Akihabara, for sure. from nature and people. fact complaining! But again, everyone is but if you dig around, I am pretty sure Yeah. My friend was visiting Well like I said, my friend who has JQR OK, you convinced me that this is a You know the term “KY”? contributing to this. A restaurant is very you'll find what you want. from Manhattan, and she said, “I could chosen to live isolated and to deal with great place to live, but there MUST be a No, what does it mean? proud to write on their menu that they've never live in Kyoto!” It's a quiet sleepy neighbors sitting on his sofa is very happy backdrop? A dark side? “Kuki Yomenai” attributed to a been serving this tofu from the same place JQR Yes, Kyoto is charming, has a very little town at night! It really is! with that lifestyle. And for you who are person who just doesn't grab what's LOL! for a hundred years.... even though it is rich history, etc. But you can come here on The balance between a big city and from Tokyo, Kyoto feels almost like the happening around. It's a common Japanese vacation to seek for that. How does that this quietness is a perfect environment for countryside, right? So to me it is the best affect you in your daily life? creativity. combination of both! Living here is like You definitely get more personal driving a car, I can press the gas pedal Why not having your whole life creativity here than Tokyo. when I want to speed up the pace but I as a vacation? also can put on the breaks and back off LOL! JQR You three are indeed working in whenever I want. Why not wake up and have no creative fields. Do you think that it is the YEAH!! difference of who you are and what you reason why you adapted so well here? do? And be surrounded by beauty, waking Would it be as comfortable a life for an JQR Is Kyoto the same as 20 years ago? into a dream instead of waking up Engineer or a person watching a clock? I walk around and there working in finance, are so many interesting cultural aspects to for example? discover. We don't get all the big events as in Tokyo, like the rock bands that I'd Well, when like to see. We have more of the traditional I studied here it was culture, which is timeless. You know, Lady Engineering oriented Gaga will be forgotten in 10 years, but architecture, so it “Gaga” will be performed in Gagaku in doesn't really matter. shrines for another millennium. You can be here and LOL! be in full contact You have beautiful pockets of with Tokyo. charming places all around Japan, like Engineers Matsue or such, but this city is just filled

2012 Oct&Nov 2012 Oct&Nov 36 37 more expensive than any other tofu! Kitamura or Nomura. They are small and we just hang around in a nice pub Or like “Fu Ka” ? most often focused around tea. Japanese downtown, where they have crafted beers Yes ! I'm a good friend of them, culture wouldn't be much without the tea and so. It's kind of a hub for us to connect. but I'm always surprised to see how you culture. Even a soy sauce jar or chopsticks can get rich selling Fu ! (Puffed bread like rests, they all come from tea. JQR So none of you are thinking of going wheat gluten pieces) Also, Kyoto is surrounded by back home anymore? But it's just not Fu, it's Fu Ka! mountains, small sized, and not very (Famous Fu shop) advertised about. And on top you often Home is the place where I live, LOL! have small temples. So when I want to so Kyoto is home to me now. And I never Sometimes I crave for food that I refresh I just take a walk up and discover think of going “back” somewhere. I always can only find where I come from, like really nice interesting and quiet places. go forward. natural breads or particular types of To me if I want traditional Kyoto I Yes the term “home” is quite cheese. But in fact I'm happy I CAN'T find go to small galleries, quiet gardens and difficult to define sometimes. Is it the place all those, because I'd be this big right now! temples, too. But about 15 years ago I where you were born, or the place where LOL! changed my way of seeing famous places. you spend the most time? I have a house But I love Japanese food and diet. My friend was leaving to Hokkaido and here, with a family, and a job. I am doing Life here is like a So I am really happy here. wanted to hit the famous places once something I like and I feel comfortable too. vacation! Or the most negative point to more. So we went to Ryoanji a few minutes So is it my home? Or my second home? me is that you can't get good sushi here! before streams of people would go through I was in San Diego for a lecture Your best hit would be the pickled and we sat at each end to take photos. recently and it is not at all the San Diego Kyoto is at Sanma-zushi! When the first bus of tourists came in I that I knew back in the seventies! Nature is human thought “Oh no” but then I found myself I know. I miss things from my omnipresent. scale. JQR All right, so this city is just great. You focusing on the Zen garden forgetting country sometimes, like the social got me. So what are the best places that completely about the noises and the proximity between people. But when I go you never see in tourist guides or secret people around. So you can still go to back to Mali, I have enough after one areas you would never tell a magazine famous temples and just focus on what week! about? there is to see and enjoy it for hours if you LOL! want. It’s a Japanese experience! Yes, the term home is very relative. I like my house! I also love to spend time in cafés. My wife would like to go and live LOL! Some are built in old places like “Machiya” somewhere else for a couple of years and I mean, it's an old house, with a and the atmosphere is always very it would probably me who would have a beautiful garden and it's filled with peaceful, not like noisy cafés in Paris for reversed culture shock and would want to beautiful art, so I don't go out much! But I instance! come back here! After 26 years in Kyoto, also love to go to small museums like Yes, when we want to meet people this place feels pretty much like home!

2012 Oct&Nov 2012 Oct&Nov 38 39