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To Great Slave and Great Bear: P.G. Downes's Journal of Travels North

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To Great Slave and Great Bear: P.G. Downes's Journal of Travels North ARCTIC VOL, 38, NO. 4 (DECEMBER 1985) P. 324-335 To Great Slave and Great Bear: P.G. Downes’s Journal of Travels North from Ile à la Crosse in 1938 [Part III] Edited and Introduced by R.H. COCKBURN’ ABSTRACT. The narrative of P.G. Downes’s trip by canoe, boat, and plane from Ile B la Crosse to Great Bear and Great Slave lakes in 1938, in which he presents a detailed accountof his feelings, thoughts, and experiences, as well as his observations on individual men and women, northern lore, and geographic characteristics of the region. The journal will appear as five installments in Arctic. Key words: Ile B la Crosse, Lac La Loche, Swan Lake Portage, Clearwater River, Athabaska River, Slave River, Fort Smith, Great Slave Lake, Mackenzie River, Great Bear Lake, Eldorado, Cameron Bay, Yellowknife, Chipewyans, JohnHornby, George M. Douglas, Paul “King” Beaulieu &SUMÉ. Voici le récit du voyage par canoë, bateau et avion de P.G. Downes à partir de l’île B la Crosse jusqu’aux Grand Lacs de l’Ours et des Esclaves en 1938, décrivant en détail ses sentiments, ses pensées etses expériences, ainsi que sesobservations sur des hommes et des femmes par- ticuliers, le folklore du nord et les caract6ristiques ghgraphiques de la région. Ce journal paraîtra en cinq Cpisodes dans Arctic. Mots clés: île B la Crosse, lac La Loche, lac du Cygne Portage, rivikre à l’Eau-Claire, rivibre Athabasca, rivibre des Esclaves, Fort Smith, Grand Lac des Esclaves, fleuve Mackenzie, Grand Lac del’Ours, Eldorado, baie Cameron, Yellowknife, Chipewyans, JohnHornby, George M. Douglas, Paul “King” Beaulieu Traduit pour le journal par Maurice Guibord. July 28th picked up on him. Eymensen at Waterways was very interest- ing; he said H. used to start for Athabaska Landing with a .22 Bright & Fair, wind SE. Over to Fort Smith. The 16 mi. & some salt & walk all the way from McMurray just living on portage is made up of two very good sandy roads well back spruce hens. Says he always remembers him because he tra- from the river. One is usedby the N.T. (Northern Transporta- velled so light and bareheaded. Everyone admits he waseccen- tion Co.) and the other by Ryan Bros. (one of them [Mickey] is tric, but not crazy. Mrs. Conibear says he used to come in any now Traffic Manager of the HBC’s Mackenzie River Trans- time of the day or night - time meant nothing and that port). Both outfits run tremendous trucks & tractors over these - despite his money he was very parsimonious. Streeter says, routes in the brief summer freighting season. I wandered about “They can say what they want, but he was the toughest little the settlement. Smith is a lovely place, quite a contrast to Fitz. man in theNorth.” It is raining & thundering now. I am under I went down to the water’s edge to see about boats. I find that the tarp. Also I feel poorly, very low, probably because I there is one due in about four or five days, the Radium King am not moving, and also because I had no mail. I had expected a (N.T.). I shall no doubt go down on that. Frightfully hot day. letter from E.G. Why - why, when I try so hard to make my- Great deal of activity; loading, etc. - particularly vast sup- self independent ofeverything, of every possible tie, doI fail? plies of sawn lumber - big timbers. The HBC’s Dease Lake Can people ever live alone with their dreams? I have not sold wasvery active. The HBC has a fancy layout; indeed, the whole town is quite a model one. Watched the loading for a Sequoizi. while, then hada meal (65C). Funny, it did nottaste particular- ly good to me. If I have any virtues up here, it is that food (and this is no affectation) does not make much difference to me. I July 29th really am just as satisfied with bannock and tea as anything, Rain - cold rain all day, wind strong NW. A miserable day; though I have a passion for caribou meat. Bought a pair of a cold, fine, misty penetrating rain driven by a cold, stinging moccasins with fine red cloth trimmings ($3). All Indian work wind. So discouraged did not write my diary at first. Nothing becomes more and more dear the deeper one gets into this to do but crouch under the tarp and let the rain drip on me. country. Ended up at the Conibears’ - most extraordinary Could not sleep last night at all. Was going out to hunt today, couple. They run a small store and have a beautiful house with but it was too, nasty. Talked with some breeds a bit. Our little blue delphiniums, some of them ten feet high. They are men- community will probablyall move over the portage tomorrow. tioned many times in books and articles on the North. She Nothing to make entry of today; a miserable, lost day. [Ada Mary] is a remarkable woman - 25 years in the north, one son [Kenneth] a Rhodes Scholar; he wrote a book about Bent Tree Lake [Northland Footprints, or Lives on Little Bent Tree Lake (1936)l. Most hospitable. Knew Hornby well. July 30th While I am about it, I might make a summary of what I have Grey, overcast, and cold. This has been moving day for ‘Department of English, The University of New Brunswick, Fredericton, New Brunswick, Canada E3B 5A3 P.G.DOWNES’S 1938 JOURNAL, PARTIII 325 most of its, the Yellowknife crowd, both boats, going over in August 1st the morning and my going over in the afternoon. It cost 50C a hundred pounds on this portage. For some reason Iwas Bright & Fair. Little doing. Lay around mostly. This was charged nothing at all, though I made no effort to avoid pay- the deadline for my mail. Not a letter. Strange. I am getting ment. Isidore Thomas sold me a caribou-skin and a bag made fed up, lying around. I may have the canoe sent over and push from the whole animal (a fawn). Sat around the shedand down to Slave Lakein it. I cannot stand the lack of movement. talked to Sid Porter for a long time. He is foreman there - an I shall draw this volume to a close shortly and ship it out to old timer. He tells me that Hornby had samples from various follow Vol I, which I trust Mr. Rand has in safe keeping. mines with him on his last trip and told him, Porter, that he Some curious and interesting notes on the Slave. I got to talk- knew where there was stuff much better. Very cold and raw. ing to several trappers about the river at different stages of Talked with Tom Champagne, the breed from Chipewyan, ~ water,..~~ aniTa~iXit-rmtts+,&c2~tc,_The place whereI came between and his bold, handsome wife for a long time. Isidore told me the rocks and saw the whirlpooisTs a bad one. There is a vio- the story of the origin of the name of NonachoLake, wherehe lent and powerful eddy there, and there is a well known story is going to trap this year. The story all revolves about an old on the river of a canoe-load of4.men who were swung around woman who had two sons and who wore herself out walking in it helplessly for four days before getting out.[!] Last year a down from the north. She was called “Nonacho.” Eventually fellow coming down with a kicker spent several annoysome in the afternoon the truck came,and over the portage we went. hours there. It is curious how small habits or customs spring A boat also. The mast was ripped out of heras we went under up among the Indians. For instance, here all of them wear the Smith-Fitzgerald telephone wires. I found the Yellowknife light-colored shirts and sew on black fore-sleeves. The moc- crowd campedon the shore. I myself have moved up out the of casins are mitt type with red cloth trimming. Portage moc- sand into the spruces on the hill facing the river. There are casins are not mitt; seam is extended to toe, no fine cloth. (Ile h several white trappers & breeds camped in this grove also. No la Crosse same, but beads right down to the toe.) East of Ile B letter from E.G. yet. Oh, of great interest: there have been la Crosse the. Mackenzie influence onstyle (like stroud several discussions as to the length of my canoe. I was of the mukluks) seems to vanish. At Lac La Ronge, stetson hats - at opinion it was 15 feet. I measured it yesterday and found it was Brochet, silk handkerchiefs worn diagonally across the chest. exactly 13 feet 4 inches. If anyone has come from Waterways Two more boatsbound for Yellowknife pulled intoday. There down the Athabaska & Slave throughthe rapids and to Fitzger- is now quite a little fleet. Had a chat with achap from Taltson, ald in anything smaller, I should be interested to know. Saw River about selling the canoe: he won’t buy it, I know. Now some beautiful gold samples from north shore of Athabaska that I am not doing anything I eat one meal a day, as grub is that a young chap had - some just studded with small flakes very expensive here. There are many thoughts I wish I might and nuggets; not far from Goldfields- all set in quartz. Also put down as they come to me, but I express myself so poorly, some big chunks of galena from,Fond du Lac.
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