[Dairy Ingredients] Vol. 17 No. 3 March 2008 ww Ethnic Perceptions

By Justin Young, Contributing Editor

Cheese is always a crowd pleaser. But, while classic American remain a favorite among U.S. consumers, more people are seeking ethnic cheese, prompting the culinary world and food processors to take note. From sprinkling asadero shreds over a plate of spicy to serving baked stuffed with Cotija, ethnic cheese’s appeal and versatility—particularly from the Italian and Hispanic options—is endless.

Rediscovering Italy

Processors continue to respond to strong consumer demand for Cheese With a Foreign Accent Italian cheeses, such as Parmesan, Romano and, most recently, Asiago, by incorporating them into many new line extensions and Americans love their cheese. According to new products. Italian cheese continues to be a favorite among our the 2008 “What’s in Store” annual trends customers—approximately 50% of our company’s new product report from the International Dairy-Deli- concepts contain Italian cheese. Bakery Association (IDDBA), Madison, WI, per capita U.S. cheese consumption While traditional Italian cheeses remain popular, chefs have begun reached 32.3 lbs. in 2007, with a forecasted exploring different Italian cheeses increase to 42 lbs. by 2013. The report also notes an increasing consumer acceptance of ethnic cheeses. Burrata. Originating from southern Italy, burrata is a fresh cow’s milk cheese created by dipping fresh into hot whey. It is then The report says that Italian cheeses continue stretched and kneaded to the desired texture. The stretched curd is as the most-popular ethnic types in the stored in a bag for one day to several weeks, depending on the United States. In fact, domestic manufacture desired flavor and consistency of the soft-centered cheese. Short of Italian cheeses surpassed that of aging delivers a soft to semi-firm flowing center of the cheese. American natural cheeses for the first time in Adding ingredients, such as dried or fresh fruit or herbs, to the curd 2006, accounting for almost 4 billion of the before dipping into the hot whey adds flavor. 9.5 billion pounds of cheese produced in 2006, much of it consumed in restaurants and other foodservice establishments. With its rich, buttery flavor and creamy texture, burrata functions well as a stuffing in ravioli or other filling applications, as well as a IDDBA also notes Latin American and salad topper. Chef Jeremy Fox, one of the Best New Chefs named Spanish cheeses are no longer a niche by “Food & Wine,” features burrata in a strawberry basil pizza market, as an increasing number of non- margherita and in a grilled peach and French bean salad at his Hispanic consumers incorporate them into Napa, CA restaurant, Ubuntu. their cooking. Half of the top-10 fastest growing specialty cheeses at retail are Buffalo . This fresh mozzarella cheese offers a soft Hispanic varieties. texture and sweet, delicate flavor. Now produced domestically, —The Editors buffalo mozzarella is made from a combination of water-buffalo milk and cow’s milk. Because it is a fresh cheese with a limited shelf life and can be created in a matter of minutes, some fine-dining chefs opt to make their own buffalo mozzarella to feature in specialty sandwiches, pasta dishes, savory soups and fresh salads.

One of my favorite buffalo mozzarella dishes is Italian tomato Caprese, a summertime favorite with fresh-from- the-garden tomatoes and buffalo mozzarella combined with basil and an Italian vinaigrette. The acidity from the www.foodproductdesign.com Page 1

[Dairy Ingredients] Vol. 17 No. 3 March 2008 vinaigrette and tomatoes blends very well with the soft roundness of this fresh cheese. Though often not practical to use buffalo mozzarella in manufactured applications due to its short shelf life, there are several manufacturing-friendly process and specialty cheeses that can be substituted to achieve a Optimizing Cheese Performance similar texture and flavor. Food processors looking to replicate ethnic cheese profiles as well as Fontina. A semi-soft, mild cheese with a light, reduce costs and manufacturing times frequently turn to a process nutty flavor made in Valle d’Aosta, Italy since cheese or cheese powder used in combination with ethnic flavors or the 12th century, fontina has been popular fresh ingredients. Process cheese, pasteurized process cheese, among American chefs for decades, and its restricted-melt cheese and/or cheese powders often provide cost use and familiarity among consumers is savings and longer shelf life compared to buying and inventorying specialty ethnic cheeses. Some ethnic cheeses melt very quickly, growing. while others become gritty and oily when heated.

Fontina works well in sauces for beef or pork, In many cases, a restricted-melt mozzarella cheese with a soft and as well as in soufflés, fondues and pizza, due smooth texture can easily replace traditional, mild Hispanic melting to its high melt properties—it becomes soft cheeses. The restricted-melt cheese becomes warm and soft during when heated but will not melt out, thus cooking, but does not lose its shape, unlike melting cheeses, which resulting in a smooth texture and mouthfeel. I can melt too much and run out. Having the ability to control the melt enjoy adding fontina to nontraditional of the cheese also opens up numerous opportunities to incorporate applications, such as a shrimp egg rolls, as cheese into ethnic menu and retail concepts for hand-held and well as traditional dishes like butternut squash crossover applications. and sage ravioli or a seafood manicotti. When I For example, I recently worked on a project for a customer where I was a restaurant chef, one of our featured was able to replicate the texture and flavor of a specific ethnic dishes paired grilled peaches with fontina, cheese. The product needed to be as bold as the original ethnic strawberries marinated in balsamic vinegar and cheese, yet have the capability to melt out without the manufacturer turbinado sugar, and prosciutto-wrapped having to worry with “separation anxiety.” These types of projects melon. always get me and my culinary team excited, because they allow us the opportunity to go to the cheese shop and sample all the varieties Although a semi-soft cheese, fontina can to ensure we achieve the proper profile as our gold standard. become quite hard as it ages and develop a more-pungent aroma than younger cheeses. We also recently showcased Oaxacan spiced soup at a food expo. The savory, on-trend soup application featured our For a milder, creamier taste experience, try pumpable restricted-melt cheese sauce with jalapeño peppers. The Danish fontina, which is a less aged and softer mild, Monterey Jack flavor married with Mexican char spice notes than Italian types. produced a high-flavor, cost-effective alternative to using natural or another natural cheese. The restricted-melt cheese also Taleggio. This semi-soft, washed-rind cheese had the added benefit of enhancing the mouthfeel and creaminess of from the Val Taleggio region in northern Italy is the soup. known as one of the oldest soft cheeses, with references dating back to the 10th century.

Made from cow’s milk, Taleggio is a soft, oozy cheese with a velvety mouthfeel. Though it has a pungent odor, it has a surprisingly mild flavor. After an initial salty impact, the flavor unfolds to reveal meaty richness, yeasty undertones and a fruity finish. When ripe, it is creamy, almost runny, with a dry, but not cracked, rind.

Taleggio’s complex combination of texture, flavor and distinctive aroma makes it an increasingly popular choice that pairs nicely with a variety of red and white wines such as merlot or a dessert riesling. Its soft, creamy texture allows Taleggio to flourish in numerous applications. It can be chopped for salads, spread on toast, or melted in hot pasta sauces, risotto or polenta. As a finale to a great meal, I enjoy the combination of membrillo (preserved quince paste) and a touch of Taleggio on an almond tuile as a sort of petit four. www.foodproductdesign.com Page 2

[Dairy Ingredients] Vol. 17 No. 3 March 2008

Some on-air chefs are showcasing Taleggio. Food Network chef Giada De Laurentiis recently featured it in a warm pear panini.

Authentic Hispanic

Given the growing Hispanic population and the popularity of the cuisine, Hispanic cheese has exploded in the United States. Menu Insights data from Mintel, Chicago, show the number of menu mentions for Hispanic cheeses jumped 78% from 2006 to 2007, with queso fresco, Cotija, Oaxaca and leading the way. Some of the nation’s trendiest restaurants are featuring these on their menus, including Gautreau’s (New Orleans), Mesa Grill (New York, Las Vegas, Bahamas), Table Fifty-Two (Chicago) and Frontera Grill (Chicago).

Queso fresco. One of the most-popular Mexican cheeses is queso fresco, also known as , a creamy, unaged, white Mexican cheese. With its mild, slightly salty flavor, queso fresco serves as an excellent topping for Mexican dishes, including enchiladas, soups and salads. It also works well in dishes requiring restricted melt, such as empanadas, as it will not melt or blow out when heat is applied.

I also use queso fresco or a comparable restricted-melt cheese when preparing crossover menu items like Mexican lasagna bites, made by layering lasagna noodles with various Mexican ingredients, including queso fresco cheese. The lasagna is chilled, then cut into squares and rolled in ground pasta crumbs. When the lasagna bites are baked, the queso fresco maintains its integrity to create a delicious, bite-sized appetizer. The light flavor also blends well with other ethnic applications, such as Thai, where traditionally you would not find a cheese, but the flavorful addition makes for a somewhat unexpected, but delicious, combination. Thai barbecue chicken pizza with queso fresco is one possible option.

Cotija. This hard, grating Mexican cheese, also known as queso añejado, is named after the Mexican town of Cotija in the state of Michoacán. Sometimes referred to as the “Parmesan of ,” Cotija is an aged, extremely salty, pungent cheese. Its flavor profile enhances any Mexican dish, including beans, enchiladas, or salad.

I use Cotija when creating Hispanic corn gratin, prepared by taking freshly grilled corn, rolling it lightly in mayonnaise or sour cream and then sprinkling chili powder on top.

Our proprietary menu research lists Cotija in Cuban applications, and I believe its appeal will continue to increase.

Oaxaca. Originating from the Mexican state of the same name, ’s flavor profile is similar to unaged Monterey Jack and has a texture similar to mozzarella. It is an excellent melting cheese for , chiles rellenos and queso fundido, as it softens without completely melting when heat is applied.

If melt restriction is an important characteristic but shelf life is a concern, a mild, restricted-melt cheese can be a more-manufacturing-friendly alternative to Oaxaca or other fresh melting cheeses.

Manchego. Hailed as Spain’s most-famous cheese, Manchego is sheep’s milk cheese named for the Manchego sheep that graze the plains of La Mancha in central Spain. A semi-hard to hard cheese, its rich, nutty flavor can vary in intensity depending on its maturity. Somewhat melt-friendly, some chefs use Manchego as they do Cheddar. It functions well in quesadillas, empanadas and other filled applications, as well as on salads or vegetables. www.foodproductdesign.com Page 3

[Dairy Ingredients] Vol. 17 No. 3 March 2008

Increased mention of Manchego in our latest proprietary menu research versus six months ago suggests that Manchego could become the next big ethnic cheese. Mintel research also supports frequent use of this cheese in fine-dining restaurants, and it should start trickling over into casual-dining outlets.

Manchego is one of my particular favorites, with its versatility and roundness of flavor. You can use it as a salad topper via Manchego crisps (crispy, fried Manchego), or in dessert applications such as an almond and Manchego soufflé with Calvados (apple brandy) ice cream. Table Fifty-Two serves Manchego cheese with hand-cut french fries and paprika seasoning.

Cabrales. Another Spanish cheese of distinction is Cabrales, a rough-rinded, semi-soft blue cheese named after a village in the Picos de Europa Mountains. Although now typically made from cow’s milk, Cabrales was developed from blending cow’s, goat’s and sheep’s milk.

Cabrales offers a soft, creamy texture and pungent flavor. It has the ability to hold up under heat or liquid without breaking. In my opinion, Cabrales is the best blue cheese the world has to offer. From salad to soufflés, to savory tarts and sweet cheese beignets, I have always been an admirer of the decadent, aromatic bouquet of Cabrales and the hearty bite of its big, blue flavor.

Ethnic cheese can enhance and transform a variety of dishes. Its many varieties, flavor profiles and melting properties have already generated new menu concepts and crossover applications, and I believe the appeal of ethnic cheese will only continue to gain momentum as consumers become more exposed to these flavorful regional cheeses and top chefs continue to experiment.

Justin Young is executive chef of Kraft Food Ingredients, Memphis, TN. In addition to having extensive restaurant experience, he apprenticed with French Master Chef Pierre Orsi and is a graduate of Johnson & Wales University, College of Culinary Arts, Charleston, SC. Young is a member of the Research Chefs Association. For more information on Kraft Food Ingredients, visit kraftfoodingredients.com or call 901/381-6612.

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