#36 30 March - 5 April 2001 20 pages Rs 20 IN THE ANNAPURNAS 10-11

LOVE IN THE TIME OF AIDS 6

EXCLUSIVE Haze capital Kathmandu is to become South Asia’s “haze monitoring capital” by the end of this year, Klaus Topfer, executive director of the United Nations Environment Programme (UNEP), announced last week. We’re told the idea of monitoring aerosol concentration over the South Give and Take

Asian landmass was The government got a low pass from donors last week. ○○○○○○

born after two Indian ○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○

scientists—one a

○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ BINOD○○○○ BHATTARAI Nobel laureate— was affecting development. on a mountain eporting progress to donors is like • The Swiss wanted stricter corruption flight noticed submitting homework to a class teacher. control, and an action plan for clean up. brown clouds at a rBut unlike in a classroom, there are more • UNDP’s one-point agenda was more real higher level than a dozen teachers and only one student: decentralisation, both in laws and actions to than they were His Majesty’s Government of Nepal. push grassroots decision-making. supposed to be. This complicates matters at donor meetings • Another donor thought maybe we need Hence the need to monitor like the one last week at the Ministry of more centralisation, given the vacuum at haze overland, where it comes from and Finance. The government presented a report on the top. how it affects the hundreds of millions of aid and reform it had promised at the annual • The multilaterals were worried about delays South Asians. ICIMOD may provide local Paris donor consortium meeting last year. in the financial sector reforms and assistance to UNEP to set up the Nepal has received over Rs 191 billion in legislation to push them. centre—good move. aid since 1950, over Rs 63 billion in grants. • Another asked why the government had not The UNEP chief also launched There has been dramatic progress in basic rejected the Army’s proposal to open a Nepal’s State of the Environment (SoE) health indicators and in education, but the bank. report, prepared with the help of the country is still at the bottom of the heap. Nepal • One bilateral donor was unhappy about the Ministry of Population and Environment is the poorest and least equal among even poor negligible role of the private sector and slow (MOPE), ICIMOD and a battery of South Asian countries. The way we treat progress on privatisation. “experts.” The 150 copies of the SoE women, we are only slightly better than the • All agreed that the Maoist problem was not were rushed through press for the release Taliban. So where did all that money go? just a security issue but a crisis of just for the UNEP chief’s press Donors are the first to admit that they have development, and the solution was conference. We’re told the report was flip-flopped on policy over the decades. They negotiations not force. Some even offered to prepared according to “UN guidelines”— no wonder it lacks both passion and got us to try this, and they got us to try that. help in mediation. commitment. Besides proof mistakes we Pouring money did not solve the problem— If this was donor dictation, then you can’t found the report also lacks good data it just deepened dependency. Donors want blame Mahat for feeling a bit confused. and a ‘point of view.’ Clearly nothing has us to come up with a strategy, but we are so Especially on decentralisation where he says SUBHAS RAI been learnt from New Delhi’s Centre for addicted to aid that we can’t figure out what revenue collection has actually gone down after Science and we want anymore. local government was given the authority to tax Environment’s “Ours is a case of a nation’s inability to constituents. Aid works best when donors look classic State of the articulate what we want,” explains Sudhindra at the overall direction and not poke their nose Indian Sharma, a Nepali sociologist working on a every time there’s a delay here or there. Environment doctoral thesis on foreign aid. “There is “We want to take full charge of our reports. Good confusion created by conflicting demands, development,” he told us. “Only that way we NGOs can better and unless we are clear in our heads about can adjust the modality and timing to the local monitor the what we want aid for, more delay will lead to situation.” Ideological and policy differences, environment. Are more confusion.” conflicting priorities among donors doesn’t there any Nepali Everyone agrees we don’t need another aid help—especially for a country, which pays this is getting from to do that has been noted greens worth the colour willing to take up strategy. There are enough research papers and for over 65 percent of its development bad to worse,” one by donors and that will the challenge next time? reports made over the years gathering dust in budget through aid. senior foreign ultimately affect aid we the ministries and on donor shelves. Donors Said one donor representative present at the diplomat told us are expecting.” Politics extreme and government officials say the real problem is meeting: “People said nice things as they do in on condition of And this uncertainty efficient aid utilisation and policy questions that such meetings but some did speak about anonymity. does not bode well for an Girija Prasad Koirala is cornered but not are tied up with political will, which in turn is schedules that had slipped. The overall tone Even so, the economy so dependent cowering yet. The last parley at his dear linked to political stability. was supportive, but we were concerned about general donor on external assistance. If friend Krishna Prasad Bhattarai’s place Finance Minister Ram Sharan Mahat came delays in fulfilling past promises.” assessment of last foreign aid declines like yielded the expected results. Bhattarai out of the donor meeting on 19 March with a Mahat argued that it was difficult to show week’s meeting in foreign investment, it asked Koirala to resign in the presence “low pass”. It has been only a month since he results in the present climate of political a stuffy Finance would be disastrous: not of opposition leaders. Koirala responded became minister, so he had an easy alibi. He uncertainty driven by “assertive vested Ministry room was just for development but that the subject was something that reiterated his personal commitment to Nepal’s interests”. Donors were not surprised: how can better than expected, also for the Kathmandu elite should be discussed in the party, not at Development Agenda agreed on in Paris last aid be an island of efficiency when everything partly because they were that depends on Kathmandu’s “aid Bhaisepati. We’re told nothing will happen until 8 April, the deadline by year, but admitted frankly that he didn’t else is going to pot? But they are worried that surprised that a document had economy” for everything—from NGO which the ordinances to set up an armed have much progress to show. And the governance is faltering dangerously in the face actually been prepared. They are convinced that consultancies to house rentals. police force and appoint regional donors grilled him: of strikes, parliament boycotts, Maoist violence the Finance Ministry and the National Finance Secretary Bimal Prasad Koirala administrators have to be approved by • The Danes, Germans and Norwegians were and the ruling party’s ability to do everything Planning Commission are serious about summarised it: “There are problems but parliament. Then, round two will begin— worried about security, which they felt was but rule. Kathmandu-based diplomats and reforms, but their worry is that this has not donors in general are still positive about aid. a plan is on to table a new law to set up growing into something larger than a law donors are becoming increasingly impatient percolated down to line ministries. “We had We can overcome problems if donors allow the two new institutions. and order problem. They wanted frank and blunt in expressing public concern about promised in Paris to table new laws for us to take full charge in the driver’s seat.” discussion on the insurgency and how it the present situation. “Something has to give, banking,” says an MOF source. “Our inability So, let’s do it.  worldlink 222 EDITORIAL 30 MARCH - 5 APRIL 2001 NEPALI TIMES

WHAT WOULD BP HAVE DONE? It is at times like these that you want to ask: what would BP Koirala have done if he were alive today? And it is a hard question to answer. But there are a few things we know for sure BP would not have done: He would not be fighting tooth-and-claw with fellow-leaders within his own party and allow the whole country to grind to a halt. Given his stature and leadership qualities, he would not be trying to divide and rule to improve his own political standing. As a frugal and simple man with high moral standards, he would not allow allies and relatives to loot the land in his name. He would not suffer fools, nor would he put up with mediocrity and incompetence. He would not allow his own or other parties to hold the Nepali people hostage over petty politics. He would not be sidetracked from building a minimum multi-partisan consensus on this nation’s intolerable crises in health care, education and employment. As a committed social democrat, he would not endure a return to authoritarianism in any form, and he would work actively to prevent it. He would not play politics with the Maobadi issue, and would OS not let others do so. He would not believe in a military solution to the STATE OF THE STATE by CK LAL insurgency, and would campaign to address the inequality in income, opportunity and hope among Nepalis who have been neglected and kicked around for too long. In the spirit of his lifelong principle Their state, our elite of National Reconciliation, he would not be pushed into the trap of confrontation and conflict. He would not be pushed into Somewhere there are still peoples; somewhere there are still herds—but not the defensive in relations with here, my brothers. Here there are states. - Friedrich Nietzsche neighbours and donors, and would put his house in order so NEW DELHI – Here at the edge of the Just about all Indian Embassy officials dualism in dealing with India has always they would not be tempted to tell Thar desert and in the desolate expanse of who have ever served in Kathmandu must been the norm with our ruling elite. us what to do. Indian babudom springs the oasis-like have armies of sincere supplicants for life. We want to have our roti and eat it too. The tragedy of BP Koirala’s campus of Jawaharlal Nehru University Senior Nepali ministers have no hesitation We want to keep crowing about Kalapani, legacy is that this thinker, (JNU). Bubbling with fresh ideas, calling upon their friends in South Block in a and still save the Mahakali treaty. We want statesman and politician is mis- fermenting with diversity, this is where the clear breach of protocol. Had these to scrap the “special relationship”, but regarded as the “intellectual verdant trees of reason sway. While the rest ‘friendships’ been reciprocal, it could have continue worshipping the seer of property” of the Nepali Con- of India hitches on to the globalisation been justified as an example of the depth of Puttaparthy. We want to cosy up to the gress party, and neglected by wagon, this is where people are still people-to-people relationship between our Indian elite without having to put up with the left and the right. So instead passionate about frugality, where blind two countries. their huddled masses. We want to be treated of being a Nepali icon, BP has consumption and wastefulness are frowned In reality, what often happens is that the like foreigners in India, but want to pay remained a party icon. This is a

WWW.NEPALICONGRESS.ORG.NP upon and “self-sufficiency” and “ideology” babus flaunt their friendship with the Indian rates on trains and in universities. tragedy because it slots this are not bad, empty words. It is a place powers-that-be in Nepal, and taunt Embassy This enigma of distance between two close statesman into the narrow where the old dreams still live. employees when they have to deal with them neighbours produces the paradox of yearning confines of his party. At a time Yet, even here, in the very seat of non- on official business. Demoralised and for the hug, while fearing an embrace. when Nepal has democracy conformism, the attitude towards relations dispirited diplomats moan: “All negotiations Our priority perhaps ought to be without leadership, government with Nepal reflects official conservatism. A between New Delhi and Kathmandu always sending our soldiers to fight the without governance, we miss colonial approach towards Nepal straddles take place directly. We don’t come in the insurgency, but we hurried instead to the commanding yet non- the ideological divide of the Indian power picture. It’s only when things go wrong that deploy our army to police the border. authoritarian persona of BP. elite. The ruling saffron coalition led by the we are called upon to do damage control. Despite the “control of smuggling” excuse The royal coup of 1961 demolished democracy and landed Prime Bharatiya Janata Party flagrantly uses the Or take the rap as convenient scapegoats.” If invented by our Finance Ministry, it Minister BP Koirala in jail and exile for 16 years. BP died in 1982 before so-called Inter Services Intelligence (ISI) all positive motivation is rooted in self- appears certain that this decision was his dream of restoring democracy in Nepal was realised—it took a threat from Pakistan to regularly bash esteem, then clearly our Barakhamba Road taken at India’s behest to check the flow decade after his death for that to come to pass. Today, another 10 years Nepal. Sonia Gandhi’s Congress still carries office is not properly primed. of goods that it does not want to enter its later, BP must be looking down at us and shaking his head. “Look at with it the big stick of the trade blockade The expectations of middle-class Nepalis territory. The flip-flop over the licence what you have done,” he must be saying, “after winning everything you that her husband imposed on Nepal in also help shape the Indian elites’ attitude renewal of Spacetime Television squandered it all.” It is just as well that BP Koirala is not alive to see 1989. Red Indians of various hues use more towards Nepal. While we resent their demonstrates the limited freedom we have what we did with his dream. benign terms, but scratch them and the backslapping big-brotherly arrogance, we in framing our own policies and exposes So, does having something good to say about B.P. Koirala make us party line shows through. Leftie Prabir seldom hesitate in asking for small favours or how Indian intelligence apparatchiks have all ‘Kangresi’? No, and that is the point. It does not and it should not. Purkayastha put it bluntly this weekend: special treatment. JNU, for instance, has started believing their own rumours. “The problem of Nepali water or power is started charging Nepali students “foreign” We aren’t an Indian protectorate. Not that Nepal is too sensitive while India is rates: the tuition fee alone is now about yet, anyway. We have always been LAW OF THE LAND very insensitive.” Well put, comrade, but $600 per semester for social science courses independent, and would like to live with If there is one country in the world that is a living example of Parkinson’s your flippant tone hurt. This statement is and $850 per semester for the natural that belief forever. Hence we are reluctant Law in action, it is Nepal. Work expands to fill the time necessary to do it no less patronising than the over-bearing sciences. You’d have thought that given the to accept that the rest of us are in. We were ridiculed when we refused to celebrate the five-day week disposition of the babus and babunis of way we bend over backwards to assert our condemned to live with the complete when it were announced—obviously Nepali bureau cats were not South Block. The uniformity in the views independence vis-à-vis India, Nepalis would sovereignty of an elite that considers itself suddenly going to work like headless chicken on roller skates with their of Indian ruling classes towards Nepal welcome being treated like any other foreign to be the state. Dr Thapa can keep pants on fire. They just kept on doing whatever they didn’t do in record makes you wonder: should we blame country. But no. practising his golf: our Pandeys have their slow time, the only difference being they got two days off in the bargain ourselves for our fate? A left-wing Nepali student raised this Rajans in New Delhi and vice versa. And in which to moonlight. Then the government increased their salaries Dr Bhekh Bahadur Thapa apparently issue with Sita Ram Yechuri, the firebrand all of us who continue to crib about thinking it would curb corruption. Nope, didn’t work. Now, the Sunday off thinks so. At a reception that he hosted at politburo member of Communist Party of Indian hegemony should realise that true has been scrapped for some essential services. We don’t think it will the India International Centre in honour of India (Marxist) during fraternal talks independence can only come with a make any difference. Murphy’s Law is also applicable here, if anything our own leftie stalwart, Jhala Nath Khanal, between comrades of the two countries last greater sense of self-esteem.  can go wrong, sooner or later it will. There is a gaping hole on the our Ambassador to the Delhi Darbar was as week. Replying to the petition, Comrade footpath on Darbar Marg, shouldn’t we warn pedestrians about it? reckless as only a very cautious person can Yechuri proclaimed pompously: “Nepali Oops, too late. Then there is Girija’s Law, nothing is patched up unless afford to be. Being the suave diplomat that students should not be asked to pay more it is patched up in my favour. So, here comes Prachanda’s Law: you he is, he qualified all his remarks as than Indians.” But rest assured, brotherly can’t make an omelette without breaking eggs. “personal and off the record.” However, his magnanimity extracts its price elsewhere. demeanour clearly betrayed his real It is easy to name ten senior Nepali

intention—he wanted his views made officials whose children study in India on OS Nepali Times is published by Himalmedia Pvt Ltd public. “Go ahead, and if you ever quote official scholarships. Respect is not bought Sanchaya Kosh Building, Block A-4th Floor, Pulchowk, Lalitpur me, I’ll deny ever having said any such at bargain prices. When the king’s Mailing address: GPO Box 7251, Kathmandu, Nepal Phones: (01) 543333-7 Fax: (01) 521013 thing,” he seemed to say with his hearty nominee in the Upper House was Editor: Kunda Dixit laughter. The camaraderie between our elite rumoured to have lent his mobile phone Desk editors: Deepak Thapa, Samuel Thomas, Anagha Neelakantan and the Indian state annoys Dr Thapa no to an ex-envoy on a ‘personal’ visit to Editorial: [email protected] end. Things are stitched up, and he is left Nepal, Kathmandu suddenly took notice Marketing, circulation and subscriptions: [email protected] www.nepalitimes.com Printed at Jagadamba Press (01) 521393 twiddling his thumbs. Good thing it leaves of the true face of the individual infamous him time to put in some golf. for his habitual India-baiting. But such HISTORY 30 MARCH - 5 APRIL 2001 NEPALI TIMES 333

example, the then Bagmati zonal commissioner, Surya Prasad Shrestha, interrogated BP when he was taken straight to Sundarijal Jail after alighting The king and I from the plane on 30 December 1976 when he returned with the call for The king [Mahendra] had mixed feelings of love and hate towards national reconciliation. The text of that me, I think. I will take some time to explain my relationship with the interrogation must be with the king. He definitely became concerned upon seeing the extent of government, as it is extremely my popularity among the people, how I worked as prime minister, and the very momentum of events. But that was also at a time important in both political and legal when he began to speak in praise of me. He had to completely terms. The court proceedings are easier revise what might have been his preconception, that here was a to find, but the related government man just like all the rest who had gone before. The king was papers remain locked away in obscure impressed when he saw my work ethic, by the debates I used to shelves. The tapes made during the have with him, the discussions we used to have in trying to interrogation must be located and establish some principles of governance, and my ambitions. My transcribed, for I can say with plans and ambitions, which I used to share with him, are the same confidence that no revolutionary has ones I speak of these days in public during rallies. When he found out that there wasn’t much time left to defended himself more eloquently and Once, the king asked me to explain my aspirations. I told him with such moral conviction as BP did they were to provide a standard of middle class living, such as that B P of my family as a minimum for all the people. “How long will that live, Bishweshwar Prasad Koirala narrated his recollec- while under military detention. I was take?” he asked, and I replied that it would require me to win personally a witness, on 30 December tions over a period of seven months in 1981-82. The BP elections three times and that I would work towards that. I used to 1976, of BP’s principled stand in front bring all kinds of matters before the king so that he would not nurse tapes were recorded by Advocate Ganesh Raj Sharma, who of the government interrogators. His a grudge. However, whenever he addressed some public meeting, transcribed and later published them in book form in was a defence based on unequivocal the king invariably said something hurtful against our council of spiritual strength, and I remember ministers. I would then have to respond. In public, he would show Nepali three years ago. The following is an excerpt from well BP’s wrathful mood and his himself to be in opposition to me, but in person he would try to his foreword to the English translation of B.P. Koirala’s sharp-edged arguments. I was make up for the damage. privileged that day to countenance He took me on a tour, and I accompanied him even though it Atmabrittanta: Late Life Recollections, being released BP’s stirringly fearsome incarnation was not necessary for the prime minister to go, but I went. During at Sundarijal Jail. our travels, he was able to observe our party’s popularity. Of course,

today in New Delhi. the king was personally popular. Wherever he went, the public

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That was why In seeking the right time to publish and no government has the right to did understand that he was not dealing with a charlatan. Daman Nath Dhungana, Radheshyam he decided, when he realised that he this material, I had to take several make them disappear. Sundarijal Jail The king also showed me courtesies. I had to leave the tour in Adhikari and I were deliberating some would not be able to write his own things into consideration. BP’s last should be converted to a museum to Dang and return to Kathmandu in order to make preparations for philosophical matter. He joined our memoirs, to present his Recollections political strategy had succeeded in re- maintain its place in Nepal’s history, an official visit to India... I was to leave the next day and the discussion for a while, and then took through the medium of his voice. Once orienting the Panchayat system from its and the authorities must locate and airplane had already arrived at Tulsipur, Dang. The airport was me to an adjoining room and told me he started speaking, he would get old track, but he was gone before he make public the full record of the some distance from where we were camped, and the king arranged what the doctor had said. BP then spirited and his voice would match the could do more. Even though the defence made by BP while for me to have a meal with him that evening. We used to have our rejoined the group and enthusiastically mood of his recollection. I remember lunch separately, but in the evenings we used to gather for drinks surrounded by the military at and so on. He called me that day, and said, “You are leaving talked for about an hour about divinity, once getting myself so carried away by Sundarijal. If the government has any tomorrow; let’s have some fun today.” religion and human behaviour. Here the intimate details of the Pokhara sensitivity towards a national leader During the programme, he announced, “Okay, everyone recite was the best example of BP’s attitude to sojourn when he was a personal guest of of the country, it should do this. some poem or the other.” Now, I could not recollect any poem, but life: he did not seem more worried than King Mahendra’s, that I excitedly But if BP’s personal papers have then remembered a short one by Shelley, and I recited it. The if the doctor had identified some turned the tape-recorder off and asked not been protected even by those poet addresses a lover: common ailment. The others did not him, “So how did your relationship near to him, perhaps it is too much We look before a laughter even know that he had come straight come to sour so unexpectedly?” He to expect the government to have And praying for what is not; from hearing what was essentially a replied, in obvious bewilderment, been more conscientious, particularly Our finest poems are those death sentence. Over the next nine “That is exactly what I have not been during the most recent periods of That are made of saddest thought months, speaking practically from his able to understand!” Till his last political turmoil. Nevertheless, I then remembered a poem from my school days, and recited deathbed, Bishweshwar Prasad Koirala moments, I must report, BP had not that one too: unlike individuals, government has I vow to thee my country spoke into a tape-recorder and shared a been able to reconcile the contradictory continuity and perhaps it is not I recited what I remembered, and then the king said, “Shall I great deal of his thoughts before two nature of the late king’s attitude inappropriate to rest some hope on recite one too?” the poem he recited was beautiful and full of listeners: Shailaja Acharya and myself. towards him, at once both friendly and the existence of these and other emotion. I still remember some sections: While in exile, BP sought the views hostile. Indeed, the toughest and materials related to BP. The royal As you leave us of both supporters and opponents on saddest episodes of BP’s political life palace itself must be a repository of And visit their big cities the contemporary issues confronting had all to do with King Mahendra. political atmosphere was more open by much material related to B.P. You may even delight in them. the Nepali people. The political Even though BP had said he would the time of his death, it was not Koirala, and it too should be But we will tarry by these rivers, caves and chautaris analyses and decisions he made then make available to me all his diaries and benevolent enough to allow publication properly sensitive to the fact that the And remember you. were thus neither isolated nor many other unpublished manuscripts, I of this manuscript within the country. BP Papers are a part of the nation’s Don’t you forget us unilateral. And it was his ability to did not have faith that the insular circle Meanwhile, I was not agreeable to heritage. Other than make a plea For we cannot forget you. give expression to the entire nation’s around him would allow me that suggestions that this work—by As I wipe the sweat from my brow based on morality and good sense, In the chautari, tired hopes, aspirations and sensitivity that access. So many of his wishes had someone who gave his all for the there is not much one can do vis-a- Then I will think of you. made his words echo in the far remained unfulfilled because of this, I nation—be printed in India, to be vis the royal palace, however.  It was a beautiful poem, and it was addressed to me. Obviously, corners of the country. knew. BP himself obviously had his imported to be read by his own people. he would not have expressed such emotions if he had not liked me. Since the very beginning, I have doubts, for he told me to trust only I believe there must be a search to (B.P. Koirala’s Atmabrittanta: Late been aware of those who did not [former deputy prime minister] recover whatever is possible of the Life Recollection’s will be on sale in (From B.P. Koirala’s Atmabrittanta: Late Life Recollection’s, Himal Books, 2001) appreciate my privileged access to BP in Shailaja when it came to accessing documents relating to BP. For Kathmandu from Sunday, 1 April.)

FISHING SKILLS our house in order, outsiders LETTERS Nepali Times. Charity does not solve the rule with “555 foreign funded Ganesh Man Koirala problem of poverty. What we projects” (Mahat’s report, #35). I problem. The camp was UK seem to be doing in Nepal agree with the anonymous simply another charity: a PS: Don’t laugh, this is my real is begging, begging for foreigner (What’s really wrong?, piece-meal approach, which name. My family were big fans #35) that we should be able to provided “fish to the beggar”, of the freedom fighters. say “... if you want to help us it not the fishing skill. will be on our term and only Durga P Ojha MAOBADIS where we feel we want help.” Tangal It appears the Maobadis in But it is not to be. Instead we Itahari aren’t content with an read A tale of two wars (#35), anti-corruption agenda and CORRECTION one of the manifestations of ROYAL NEPAL friends involved in the aviation want to foray into the fashion Due to an editing error, THE poverty in Nepal that is It seems to us that the Lauda field, I know it for a fact that the business. Doesn’t WRONG PHOTOGRAPH portrayed so touchingly by Air deal is really being blown present one is up to his neck in commanding women students ACCOMPANIED THE Barbara Adams. The ten days out of proportion. What’s the it. If he does that just to move a not to wear short hair NEPLITERATURE COLUMN special medical camp, big deal? Everyone knows pilot’s file, just imagine what contradict Maoist demand no (#35) on the poet Manju that all the different parties, Kanchuli. The correct organised by a donor funded he’s going to do when it comes 19 (Nepali Times #30) that photograph of Manju Kanchuli is project, in Mangalsen only when in power, have all been to moving a whole aircraft. Why patriarchial exploitation and presented here. The error is reveals the problem, not a raping RNAC and the country. don’t you expose these guys discrimination against should regretted. “sustainable” solution. It is no big secret that with a hidden camera? Thank be stopped? What’s next, The picture accompanying A tale donors to take care of our Barbara’s write up implies that previous and present RNAC you for all the “masala” in your female circumcision? of two wars (Barbs, #35) should problem the way they think this is the way for donors to bosses are very corrupt news...keep it up. All my Name withheld on request have been credited to the best. Since we cannot keep go about solving Nepali fellows. Having a lot of friends here enjoy reading Itahari Accham DDC. Ed. 444 NATION 30 MARCH - 5 APRIL 2001 NEPALI TIMES Learning to climb To secure the future of Nepali expedition leaders and climbers, we need formal training programmes—and they

appear to be off to a good start.

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Rock climbing training in Thame Chamonix, the hub of majority of 8,000 m peaks and a understanding of history and mountaineering schools in Europe. wealth of manpower at the mid level, geography, navigation, meteorology, This means Gurung is qualified to be Nepal doesn’t have a single UIAGM advanced climbing and rescue an assistant instructor for the certified mountain guide,” says techniques, and organising and Advanced Mountaineering Course Gurung, who’s set his heart on executing expeditions. and a Master Instructor for the Basic becoming a UIAGM-certified guide. So where does that leave the Course run by Nepal His wish may come true soon. As hundreds of learnt-on-the-job Mountaineering Association. part of a French-Nepali co-operative climbers like Babu Chhiri Sherpa The next step up would be a effort ENSA and NMA signed a five- and Appa Sherpa? “Such climbers course endorsed by the Union year memorandum of understanding would fit somewhere around the Internationale des Association de (MoU) in January which highlights ENSA diploma level but would have Guide de Montagne (UIAGM)—a ENSA’s role in assisting the NMA to to take a couple of extra credit professionally certified, design a syllabus suited to Nepal—the courses such as in navigation,” says internationally recognised guiding emphasis of which would be more on Sherpa. Whether the NMA can system. But that is not that simple. high altitude climbing skills, and streamline this information, “It is a very complex process to get weather-reading skills rather than provided by the French, the the UIAGM rating,” says Tashi being able to climb a grade six or Slovenians and the Austrians at Ice climbing training in Langtang Jangbu Sherpa, president of the seven rock face. The NMA, on its various points, to a growing number

NEPAL MOUNTAINEERING ASSOCIATION MOUNTAINEERING NEPAL NMA and an ENSA diploma holder. part, has committed itself to of potential trainees in diverse ○○○○○○○○○○

RAMYATA○○○○○ LIMBU technical aspects of climbing that are mountain school in Manang. “It requires developing a course of registering a national official diploma situations remains to be seen. hen four-time Everest essential for any mountaineer. Neither Gurung should know. He started study within the country and then for Nepali guides in keeping with “During the earlier stages when we summiteer Lhakpa does it give you a proficiency certificate,” out on the lowest rung of the getting the UIAGM to endorse the UIAGM standards. first introduced the mountaineering w Sherpa decided to take says Lhakpa. “Experience, alone, doesn’t expedition ladder—as a coolie when he course.” So far, France, Switzerland, “The UIAGM rating is extremely courses, we had to look for part in a basic mountaineering count.” His instructor Iman Gurung was 15, then a kitchen boy, a cook, and Italy, Germany, Austria, Canada, necessary to give some direction to applicants, coax trekking companies course organised by the Nepal nods in agreement. “For a 40-something finally a ‘Sherpa’. Realising the Peru and New Zealand run mountaineering as a profession in to send in their staff. Today, we’re Mountaineering Association climber, Lhakpa is extremely strong and necessity of technical training, he UIAGM-certified courses. Slovenia Nepal, to develop an industry,” says flooded with applications and have (NMA) last autumn, people fit. He was a bit weak on the knots and completed the Basic and Advanced recently joined the band. NMA’s Sherpa. A UIAGM-certified a hard time rejecting people,” says wondered why he was doing it. But the rock climbing aspects, though,” says Courses through the NMA and is one “It’s ironic,” says Gurung, who course, an equivalent to a Masters, an NMA official. Over a hundred Lhakpa did not care. “Climbing Gurung who spent a month instructing of a dozen or so Nepalis to hold a will accompany a French team normally takes an ENSA diploma people applied for the 32 places in Everest a couple of times doesn’t 32 trainees in the basics of climbing in diploma from the ENSA (Ecole attempting Everest from the north holder about three months to the NMA’s basic mountaineering necessarily teach you the basic, the rugged surroundings of the NMA Nationale de Ski et d’Alpinisme) in side this spring. “Despite having the complete and requires a broad course in autumn 2000.

HERE AND THERE by DANIEL LAK Agnostic turns cyberprophet BANGALORE: This is a place where my agnostic views of information There’s something energetic and committed about this corner of south technology come under severe strain. Every one here is a cyberprophet, a

budding millionaire, the next Bill Gates. I don’t exaggerate. Even the poor India that even dedicated cynics like me can’t diminish. ○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ physically handicapped man running the telephone kiosk outside my hotel ○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ (“Only Local Calls, Proceeds to Crippled” reads the sign) has big plans. Bangalore, Hyderabad and to a lesser extent, Chennai, stormed into “Saar,” he told me in halting but surprisingly good English, “Soon we’ll prominence in the early 1990s as sources of cheap, skilled labour to do have two computers. Then I’m opening an Internet cafe. Big money saar, the offshore data processing of western and Japanese companies. Then better than telephone calls.” Bill Gates and other American IT barons realized that India produces Indeed there must be money in ‘net surfing. There’s a cyber cafe on more engineers than any ten other countries, more and more of them every corner here. Some are slick, franchises run by big companies. One working in software. So they opened branches in India to work on of them, Satyam Infoway, aims to have 10,000 cafes all over India by software and to solve the specific problems of business clients. Again, 2005. Others are tiny family-run places that used to be public call the bottom line was value for money. That market is becoming offices. There’s evidently much demand. I spent half an hour looking overcrowded now, and not because of stock market crashes and the for a place to download e-mail the other day, turned away several times bursting of the IT bubble. from places with every terminal full. And unlike Thamel, the browsers Now Indian companies have to start becoming world players with their are not Swedes or Australians reporting on their latest Lonely Planet own software and ideas, not just a source of offshore labour and expertise adventures to friends and family far away. In Bangalore, local students founded on other peoples’ technology. There is a still an economy here are the backbone of the Internet cafe trade, followed by the small businessman founded on cheap copies of foreign intellectual property and no matter still awaiting a telephone line from Indian bureaucrats unaware that their days as civil servant from a fairly humble, lower middle-class background. I asked where you stand on that issue, it’s a barrier to South Asian success in the gleeful dispensers of petty annoyances are numbered. her if she was among the desperate hordes of Indian graduates who are next generation of information technology. The young woman in the I fell into conversation with a young woman at a Satyam i-way cafe that applying for American visas to work in Silicon Valley and make a trillion Internet cafe wants all the right things—to stay at home and presumably had a free terminal. She was typing up a resume and browsing various high dollars. No, Sudha was applying for jobs in Bangalore, “because it’s home, contribute to local development, and to be part of an indigenous, cutting- tech sites for news of jobs. She had a slight American accent so I assumed and because there are so many companies. If I want to work for Microsoft, edge company. She wants to work in a masala version of Silicon Valley. She she was from a rich family, educated abroad, and back in Bangalore for a Sun, Java, Oracle or Cisco, they’re all here. But I want to work for an probably will some day. holiday or a parent’s lucrative posting with a multinational IT firm. Wrong Indian company.” There’s something energetic and committed about this corner of south on all counts. Sudha had never been beyond the state borders of Karnataka. More and more, this is what you hear as India’s IT boom enters India that even dedicated cynics like me can’t diminish. We’ll be hearing a She learned her English at a local vocational college, and her father was a another phase with much more potential and a lot more challenge. lot more about Bangalore in the years to come.  NATION 30 MARCH - 5 APRIL 2001 NEPALI TIMES 555 “So far, the training has been aid instruction at the Kunde Sony Sherpa a 19-year-old college training to more than 500 trainees

operated on an ad hoc basis. Hospital, and ice training, including student in Kathmandu. “Normally, since 1979. The French, namely the Bandh, again ○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ There’s no concept of continuity. the ascent of Lobuche, in the parents aren’t keen on letting girls ENSA, have been involved in ○○○○○○○○○○○○○ The final goal of the NMA should Everest region. About 60 to 70 be away from home, especially advanced training since 1984 and Here’s something to note for those making plans for the weekend be to create structures which after percent of the trainees are employed overnight. I thought this was a recently trained 17 climbers at of 6 April. In line with their tradition of protesting against the some years will be able to conduct during the trekking season. Since great opportunity.” Kanzin Gompa in Langtang. The “incomplete” revolution of 1990 that reached a climax on the same training internally,” says Max 1999 Eco Himal and the NMA have “When I saw the information ENSA has also agreed to provide a day, the Maoists have called for a general strike on Friday. A Santner of Eco Himal, an Austrian also been training women. Presently, on the Eco Himal website, I was quota for three outstanding Nepali statement signed by Maoist Chairman Prachanda, has “called” on development agency that is working the third group of Outdoor Female really excited and wanted to be climbers from 2001. Two will be all transport, educational institutions and markets to shut down. towards establishing a Leadership trainees are on a trek in involved in the project,” says sponsored by NMA, and the third The Maoists also charge the government of ignoring their mountaineering training centre in Helambu where they will be taught Hawse, whose non-profit by the French Embassy. proposal to form an all-party interim government.

The long road home

○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ Officials from Nepal and Bhutan began screening the identities of refugees Monday to kick off a process that analysts say could take years to complete. Members of 10 families were brought to the screening centre on Monday and only two were screened. The officials first oriented them on how to fill up the different forms required for the exercise. Progress on Tuesday was seven more families. “Things are moving faster today,” said SB Subba of the Bhutanese Refugees’ Representative Repatriation Committee (BRRRC). The Khudunabari camp holds over 12,300 asylum seekers. In all there are 15,025 families, adding up to 99,099 individuals living in seven camps in Jhapa and Morang districts. Refugee groups have distributed copies of the required forms in camps and hope that the screening will move faster once people know what sort of questions they are going to be asked. There’s another problem though: there’s no arrangement for feeding the people who come to the verification centre, which needs to be addressed if the process is to take the entire day. We’ve learnt that the bus carrying the refugees is making two trips instead on one.

Everest clean-up

○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ An exclusive club of Nepali mountaineers says it wants to clean up NEPAL MOUNTAINEERING ASSOCIATION the upper reaches of the world’s highest mountain. The membership list of the newly-formed Everest Summiteers Association that wants to pick garbage from the peak reads like a who’s who of Nepali mountaineering—Pemba Doma Sherpa, the first Nepali woman to climb Everest from the north; Appa Sherpa, 12-time climber of Everest, and Babu Chhiri who holds the record for sprinting to the summit. The criterion for membership to this new club—having climbed an 8000m peak. “Previous clean-ups Advanced rock climbing training in Langtang Rescue training on a rock face in Balaju NEPAL MOUNTAINEERING ASSOCIATION MOUNTAINEERING NEPAL have been done at lower altitudes and Base Camp, few people can go higher” says climber Kaji Sherpa. “We’d like to use our Thame, Khumbu. “The area is ideal the basics of setting up and educational foundation, The Wind Between the Slovenians, the ability to climb higher to clean the mountain.” So far 984 climbers, because the climbers are training at managing campsites. Horse Legacy, is sponsoring the French, the Austrians and Nepali including 202 Nepalis, have climbed Everest. an altitude that simulates the What started off as a half- training of ten of the women. instructors, they have trained nearly

actual local environment they’ll be hearted experiment has today Hawse, who was on the south 900 Nepali climbers in the basic Water strategy ○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○

working in.” evolved into a well-rounded training summit of Everest in 1998, dreams and advanced courses organised by ○○○○○○○○○○○○○ So far 59 climbers, including programme where volunteers like of organising a joint American- the NMA. The challenge for the One more strategy is in the making, we’re told. About 200 people two women, have been through the Angela Hawse, a high-altitude Nepali women’s team to attempt a mountaineering body, now, is to specialising in different aspects of water use and management advanced training conducted mountain guide from the US, and peak in 2002. “Maybe Ama formalise a course at a higher level. got together last week to give final shape to a strategy on long- jointly by Eco Himal and NMA climber and tourism entrepreneur Dablam,” she says. NMA President Sherpa is term use and management of Nepal’s water resources. The plan since 1998. It involves attending Nimi Sherpa will be guiding trainees Meanwhile, in Manang, the optimistic, “It all depends on how is to chart development for 25 years. Groundwork on the strategy environmental awareness classes in like 19-year-old Sony Sherpa. “My Slovenians have been helping out well ENSA and NMA work, how began in 1996 with the support of the World Bank and the Kathmandu, rock climbing and father is in the trekking business. with the NMA’s mountaineering long we take to prepare the syllabus Canadian International Development Agency. The plan is to be theoretical lessons in Thame, first But I’ve never been on a trek,” says school and providing basic climbing and get it endorsed by UIAGM.”  reviewed by the Water and Energy Commission and National Water Council. Approval by the two bodies will take the strategy to the cabinet for final approval.

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To get a completion out of the March Madness New n’ rocking beats to get the spring back in to your life... Celebrations most likely to cause instant delight A time to get breezy with us.

Blast off: 9:00 pm onwards Friday 30th March 2001 BIKAS RAUNIAR — Positive Life.  NEPALI TIMES NEPALI Positive Life is published by PANOS bid me goodbye. She also asked me to get well quickly and come back to her and to phone her regularly from Pokhara. That was when I realised that she loved me very much. In fact, Asha proposed marriage. I accepted. We are the first Nepali couple with HIV/ AIDS to get married. Sharan’s testimonyPositive Life from Dhoka Kitab Pasal, Patan Dhoka. (Sharan has nearly sorted out the problem with the Chief District Officer’s office and renewed Prerana’s registration. Now the couple are mobilising every resource they can to bring the organisation back to life.) Nepali and is available at Patan South Asia in both English and (Asha) in a cinema queue. I , to lift his spirits. Says Sharan didi nani 30 MARCH - 5 APRIL 2001 30 MARCH

BIKAS RAUNIAR/PANOS raksi year. Asha died last Kopila other. help each stories and share our together, could come had this illness those of us who ○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ used to tell me Prerana so that Smiles Asha: “He’s a very good husband. We fell in love Sharan’s neighbourhood friends love him. They Asha and Sharan We continued laughing as we walked down to Naag They are happy together. But just two months into the They are happy together. ○○○○○○○ sometimes offer him quietly: “Sometimes I take it. It’s okay if you drink within limits. Earlier I used to argue when my wife scolded me. But these days, I don’t do anything to make her feel angry and sad, because I love her very much.” because we understood each other so much.” looked around. Couldn’t find her. But suddenly I realised But looked around. Couldn’t find her. she was standing at the back. She’s so small,” laughs I’ll really shrink and one day, Sharan. Asha replies: “Wait Food and cash are a you’ll look for me the whole day.” problem, but this couple survives on faith. Their room is filled with small pictures of poubha-style Ganesh and Tara, and photographs of friends. They have a small cassette player and a black-and-white TV. marriage things started getting tough—societal pressure is marriage things started getting tough—societal food, shelter and always hard to handle, and money for resource of medicine were scarce. Their only direct livelihood, Prerana, an organisation they established to assist and help ‘positive’ people move on positively with their lives, didn’t function for a year shortly after Asha and Sharan were married. They are now trying to get it back on track. live in a dingy mud house in Dilli Bazaar and they are lucky to have a kind landlord— even they have shelter, though they haven’t been able to pay rent for a few months. This winter was cold, and perhaps that’s why both were ill. “I almost had no hope of seeing Sharan alive this summer,” remembers Asha. It is a tough battle—when Sharan gets they still take Asha is sick, and vice versa. But better, pleasure in living. Sitting on their bed, the only seat in their house, sipping tea, watching Sharan light a cigarette, I found myself laughing more heartily than I’d done for a long time. Sharan’s intriguing sense of humour and Asha’s quick responses were too life-affirming for the old room to remain depressing. Pokhari. “One day I lost SALIL SUBEDI Sharan, 34. A year has passed since Asha, 22, married Nepal to get They are the first HIV-positive couple in at the Guhyeswori married. The ceremony was performed of friends who temple in the presence of a small group called were helping them produce a book 15 young Nepalis a compilation of oral testimonies of they That day, about how they contracted HIV/AIDS. to mother and godfather old grandmother, visited Asha’s seek their blessings. from the very beginning, when True to their names, Asha and Asha names, their to True marriage a represent Sharan refuge. and hope of positive. About eight years ago, three of us—Asha, I and one Kopila— started we first met at Prerana, not to take drugs or drink. Later, slowly, we spent time together, talking about our lives. When I was preparing to go to a rehabilitation centre in Pokhara, Asha tearfully came dai I am now 33 years old. I have But things are not going right. I am very open about I got married to Asha about a HIV-positive. had AIDS for four years. People like us who have AIDS or who are HIV-positive have established an institution called Prerana (Nepali for “inspiration”). I am the vice- president [now chairman]. I work to educate people about AIDS. I am ready to sacrifice my life for the benefit of others. I was very sick until a few months ago. Asha, my wife, thought I would die soon. But divinity comes strangely into one’s life. A person named Pol looking for me. Don’t know how. He was like a god to me. He had me treated at Patan Hospital. And I am better now. At the moment, I am devoting my time to reviving Prerana. The organisation has collapsed because there was no one to look after it. The Chief District Officer demands to know where we spent our money. We don’t know how or where it went. Perhaps some friends misused it. having AIDS. My ex-wife knows I have AIDS. I gave my name when I was once interviewed by a local FM station. She heard my interview and found out I had AIDS. She called me the next day and berated me for making it public. She said, “So you have AIDS, but do you have to tell everybody about it?” But what I say is that those of us who have AIDS have to be open about it. We shouldn’t lie. This is my advice to my friends. year ago. She, too, is HIV- tika Since I didn’t have a place of After my wife left me, I was Dasain. The man who would become my father-in-law called me to his house. His daughter was also present. He asked his daughter, “Do you want to marry this man?” She said, “Yes.” Her father continued, “He doesn’t have a job or a home. How will you live?” She answered, “I’ll live with him even if all I have is hot water for meals.” So he put on both of us. The marriage “ceremony” was over. my own, I stayed with my wife’s family for a few days, but moved into a rented room soon after. Unfortunately, the radio shop where I worked was sold, and I was once again unemployed. My wife worked in a garment factory. I began drinking again, and the money my wife earned was no longer enough. We didn’t pay rent for three or four months. I had borrowed some money to pay the rent, and I gave it to my wife. Later, she couldn’t find it. She suspected I had taken it and spent it on drinks. But I hadn’t taken the money at all. Naturally, we had a huge fight. I was very angry so I beat her and even attempted to stab her with a knife. But she managed to escape. Soon after, she left me. We had two sons, they live with their mother. I was married for about seven years. having sex regularly with two women. But I fell sick a few months later. When I went for a check-up, I discovered I had syphillis. I took medication and was feeling fine, but I fell sick again. When I had a check up again, it turned out I was ○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ But I had to do something, After this event, my life took I used to hate alcohol. I never smoked. That’s the That’s smoked. polite never nice, I a alcohol. time, hate one to at used be I to used thug. I hated person a of became kind also boy nice this Yet boy. intention was to buy a second- hand tempo. I am also interested in music. I used to own a guitar and other musical instruments. But I started drinking too much. I quit scalping tickets, but couldn’t find any other job. I spent all my savings. had to eat. I found a job repairing radios. While working there, I fell in love with another girl, and we got married in a strange ceremony. It occurred during teashop. Our love affair lasted about four years. We talked about marriage. But since I was a Chhetri and she was a Newar, her family objected. We didn’t meet for a month. Then Bidya committed suicide. Her family told others that she had died of meningitis, but I suspected suicide. Her body was cremated Pashupati temple. I hid in a corner and watched her body burn. a very different turn. I couldn’t do without liquor. I started meeting women. As a scalper I had saved around Rs 22,000. My Love in the time of AIDS of time the in Love

NATION

When I was working as a When I was around 18, I

was born in Kalimpong and ran away from home at a very young age and tried earning

○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ “We are the first Nepali Couple with HIV/AIDS to get married”—Sharan Chettri married”—Sharan get to HIV/AIDS with Couple Nepali first the are “We ALL PHOTOS: MIN BAJRACHARYA MIN PHOTOS: ALL scalper at the movie theatre, I fell in love with a girl called Bidya. Her family owned a small started selling movie tickets at Jai Nepal Hall. I had rich friends. It was after one of them died in a motorcycle accident that I started drinking. I never drank before, even when my friends urged me I would refuse. I used to hate the stuff. My friends would count how many glasses of liquor they could consume. If one said, “Hey, I’ve had 15 glasses,” another would boast, “That’s nothing, I’ve already reached 22.” One glass would be enough for me. When people would smoke cigarettes, I would tell them, “Please, don’t blow smoke my way.” That’s the kind of person I used to be at one time, a nice, polite boy. Yet this nice boy also became a hated thug. my livelihood in cities like Delhi, Dehradun and Bhardwaj. Later my mom called me to Kathmandu. She had married a different man. But I could not last with my tyrant stepfather for long. Mother also became an alcoholic. Then I got frustrated and kept company with all sorts of people. 66 66

6 i NATION 30 MARCH - 5 APRIL 2001 NEPALI TIMES 777 SOMEWHERE IN NEPAL by PUSKAR BHUSAL VILLAGE VOICE by LALI RAWAL A great leap backward Can a country with a split personality ever break free The freedom to stay indoors from the cycle of eulogising and criticising?

○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ To all the women who come to me I give my “medicine”—a talk on what

What’s really wrong? by “A Foreigner” (FEEDBACK, #35) menstruation is all about and why it makes no sense to stay outdoors.

○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ compelled me to really wonder whether we Nepalis are ○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ congenitally predisposed to falling short of our potential. Our fatalistic karma-driven heritage repeatedly clashes with used to be among those women napkins to prove to him that I was They had begun to notice that I had hygiene, and that I would not be the blame game our unmet democratic desires constantly who used to spend a week every indeed bleeding. not been visiting the shed. “Oh, Lali responsible for any untoward incidents prompt us to play. Can a country with a split personality ever imonth out in the chhaupadi goth For a while all hell broke loose. Rawal has done some treatment in if they didn’t. I not only have converts, break free from the cycle of eulogising and criticising? A (shed) whenever I had my period. Not He called me names and wondered Beijing to keep menstruation at bay,” I even have “disciples”, who have national time-out is probably what we actually need. Take a any more. I not only stay inside the what new-fangled ideas I had picked they said. So I told them that I was taken over my “conversion” task in great leap backward, count our curses, and we just might be able house and carry on my normal up in Beijing. So I took him aside and taking dabai (medication). Then the other areas. In my ilaka alone there to see where all the blessings lay in disguise. activities now, but I also have many, explained the whats, hows and whys women in the neighbourhood started are 21 households where women no During the bad old Panchayat days, we just couldn’t quit many converts in the district. of my decision. I also told him firmly pouring into my house to ask for longer go to the shed. blaming the system and its active leadership for all our woes. That’s why It all started during the Beijing that I was very determined not to dabai. Dabai you asked for, dabai you If I have been able to convince the Jana Andolan showed no sign of achieving its goal of overthrowing conference. During one meeting when spend a day in the shed any longer. will get, I told them. Only my the non-party system until one group of protesters branched out from the women to stay indoors, I have also main demonstration to attack the statue of the personification of that everyone was discussing problems they He saw my point and grudgingly medication was a lecture. To each of managed to ruffle a few feathers of polity. In the heat and dust of the moment, we lost our sense of faced, I shared with the other agreed to have me stay indoors. those women I gave my mantradaan some organisations. The Red Cross, proportion. All that took place in that memorable late-night palace delegates my own experiences of That morning he ended up on what menstruation was all about for example, has been building nice meeting was the deletion of the term “partylessness” from the Panchayat having to stay outdoors during cooking the meals. I was sitting aside and why it made no sense to stay cabins that double as chhaupadi sheds. constitution. However, we jumped to so many different conclusions that menstruation. I told them we did it so watching him cook. Just then a village outdoors. But my point is, whether you build a we still don’t know who blinked first. The result: more than a decade later, that the gods wouldn’t be angry, and elder entered the house and seeing us I lectured them on the hygiene palace or a cabin, no matter the level we are still left wondering whether to count Lokendra Bahadur Chand as that no mishap would befall our in our reversed roles commented, aspect, on how they should take good of comfort, a chhaupadi goth will the last Panchayati prime minister or as the first head of government family—fire, snakebites, barren fields always remain a chhaupadi goth in under the restored multiparty polity. and livestock, and attacks by wild spirit. It will always be outside, and From Day Two, we were carried away by promises of Singaporean animals. Everyone was surprised that women will always have to move out. prosperity made by our long-impoverished new leaders every step of the such treatment was meted out to way towards negotiating a new constitution. The issue of whether a There will be no change in their status democratic prime minister had the absolute right to dissolve parliament women for a perfectly normal physical as long we keep them in any kind of took a back seat to the exigencies of completing the draft of the cycle of the female body. But there goth. So I vehemently oppose these constitution before the political road took a sharp turn to the extreme was one delegate from Nepal, Angur kind of interventions.

right. When the multiparty leaders elected to govern and oppose started Baba Joshi, who prodded me to face FACE TO I have travelled to all the 75 implementing their promises within the jurisdiction of their own kith and the matter head on and take certain Village Development Committees kin, we started complaining against the multiparty system, and all its hard decisions. It was her logic, and (VDC) in my district advocating active, passive and indifferent leaders. her conviction that the shakti inside against using the shed. Even INGOs With the Berlin Wall having just fallen and the ground still shaking each woman is so immense and pure, A chhaupati goth like the one Lila Rawaldescribes use me as a “shield” resource person to with the thunder of a new version of liberation theology, it was probably and nothing to be ashamed of, that take across their message of gender too early for us to realise the cardinal truth of the day. The restoration of convinced me to take some bold “Why is the budha cooking and the care of their bodies, not have sexual equity. Now in every VDC there are organised politics also meant there would be more parties entitled to the steps. watching?” My husband relationships during their periods, on national loot long monopolised by the hard and soft versions of the budhi at least four to five “convert” disorganised panchas. Let’s not pretend we weren’t warned of what was I took up her challenge and made replied, “Oh, it’s my turn now... she’ll how they should dispose/wash the households. As for myself, other than coming our way. Go back to the speeches of then-prime minister Marich up my mind there and then that I cook in the evening.” That evening soiled napkins. I told them they could getting directly involved in religious Man Singh Shrestha, particularly that fiery one he delivered in Birganj, would not spend my menstrual days in another relative turned up and asked stay indoors and start doing rites, I lead a near-normal life inside on why the people shouldn’t be fooled into following the Congress- the chhaupadi shed anymore. It was the same thing the old man had. My household chores without hurting the my home during my periods. I have Communist-driven multiparty chariot of ire. The core argument, of with this determination that I husband told him, “Oh, it’s my turn elders’ feelings. There were about a even started cooking and milking course, was that a democracy ushered in at a time when South Block was returned home. But the day after I now, she’ll cook in the morning.” dozen converts immediately within cattle during those days. This chhau is punishing us for our decision to have bought a couple of anti-aircraft arrived, before I had time to explain For the next three months, in my family circle. a “curse” we have cast on ourselves... guns from our northern neighbour might vest sovereignty in the people, my resolve to my husband, I got my order not to put my husband in an When the news spread about the and we have to cast it away. I will but it would almost certainly take it away from the country. period. I calmly explained to my awkward position, I did not declare special medication Lali Rawal was The string of commentaries in the two government-run newspapers strive even harder to make the practice husband that I had chhau, but that I that I had my period at all. I used to giving to women which made them of baahira sarney (moving outdoors) a (mostly under bylines that were previously unseen and were never again would not go outside. He took it do all the work that women are “privileged” to stay indoors, women to grace those pages) tried hard to establish why it was the duty of every chhau thing of the past.  son and daughter to save the system that was best suited to the country’s matter-of-factly. So I went around the not supposed to do, except religious started to come from neighbouring soil, air and water. However, when the 400,000 active panchas who were house doing my work, cleaning the and sexual activities. My husband later wards, villages, and even as far away as Lali Rawal and her husbans Padam supposed to rise up in defence of the system didn’t have time for that hearth, wiping the floor. Then I think requested me to let him know when I Mangalsen. I always told those Bahadur Rawal are District kind of pontification, how could you expect to sway the people on the my husband caught on and he had my periods. He said he didn’t women, my dabai could only be given Development Committees member street who had already made up their minds about throwing bricks, stones cornered me and asked me why I had mind cooking. And so we carried on. face-to-face. I also told them that my in Achham. Rawal is 50 years old and pebbles on anybody or anything that contained the slightest trace lied to him about being chhau. I said I Then the villagers started medication would work only if they and has two sons. of partylessness. Since the erstwhile East Germans and West Germans had not. I had to show him my soiled becoming curious and suspicious. followed my advice on health and (As told to Rupa Joshi via telephone from Accham.) are re-evaluating the meaning of the fall of the wall and are learning to live with the consequences, perhaps we should be doing some introspection about our own political change. The congressisation of national institutions, comrades with questionable credentials, corruption- oiled elections, arms and aircraft commissions, village communes outside the control of the CDO, they all come with the territory. However, this doesn’t necessarily mean we can no longer prevent our healthy scepticism from succumbing to morbid cynicism. When the Maobadis have come to realise the need for formulating an indigenous model for COSMIC AIR revolution, why can’t we accept the evolution of a Nepali model of multiparty democracy? The stand-off in parliament could then be seen as democracy both in action and inaction, depending on the political mood of the day and the season of the session. Then the prime minister (who insists he will not set an unhealthy precedent where the opposition parties are vested with the authority to change the head of the governing party) and the opposition (who argue that a healthy parliamentary majority cannot be used to cover corruption) can both be right. Parliamentary deadlock will have become an archaic entry in our political dictionary. So what if our ruling, opposition and nominated legislators can’t discuss national issues in parliament? Our honourable gentlemen recently proved that they were more than capable of doing so in the presence of a former Indian ambassador on a private visit in keeping with the spirit of the 1950 special-relationship pact almost every Nepali loves to hate. (The rules have changed, though. In those days, the personal involvement of Jawaharlal Nehru was regularly required to facilitate reconciliation among our feuding leaders. Today, a retiring Ministry of External Affairs official, who probably never expects to rise above the position of joint secretary, can handle such things by borrowing the mobile phone of the palace’s main representative in the Upper House.) If you think this plea for political sanity is part of a conspiracy hatched by an unholy alliance of the extreme left and the extreme right against our hard-won democracy, then here’s what you can do. Take another look at the transcript of the accusations made by the palace while dismissing the BP Koirala government 40 years ago in satra sal. Doesn’t it read like an advance copy of the text today’s pratigami reactionaries would use before rounding up the current crop of multiparty leaders? As George Santayana might have said about the Nepali people, why are those forced to relive history condemned to forget it?  888 NEPALI ECONOMY 30 MARCH - 5 APRIL 2001 NEPALI TIMES BIZ NEWS ECONOMIC SENSE by ARTHA BEED

Total Quality training ○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ Shiv Khera, founder of Qualified Learning Systems, New Jersey, is passing through Kathmandu 21-23 April to conduct the third workshop For art’s sake in the Winning with Surya training series organised by Surya Tobacco (P) Ltd. Surya’s “Is there a winner in you” training programmes bring to Nepal leading experts in management Tax-law reform is essential to make support for the arts and personal development to conduct short workshops. an interesting proposition for the private sector. Khera’s firm specialises in motivation techniques and enhancing management skills. mid the widespread coverage tobacco and alcoholic beverage incentive for them to actually take Until now over 15,000 people around the world have of our dysfunctional companies. There are some who that extra step—unlike in other attended Khera’s motivational workshops. He’s best known for alegislature and a general find it difficult to accept that the countries, here there are no tax his ability to equip managers with the skills, qualities and business slowdown, some issue at stake is promotion of the breaks for those who support the attitudes they need to excel in today’s competitive business interesting and exciting times in the arts, and that the source of the arts. Making contributions and environment. “The workshop is about identifying inherent skills Arts have passed by, almost financial support is unimportant. then paying a tax on it is absurd, and using them to build confidence and competence,” says an STC press release. Khera unnoticed. The past month We need to learn from and does not make sense to focuses on how the right values affect organisational productivity and how better teamwork witnessed a series of events—plays examples elsewhere in the region, anyone who may be inclined. can ultimately lead to greater job satisfaction and increased commitment to the workplace. staged by Aarohan and Sarwanam, like ITC supporting music centres Philanthropy is rare, and “Most people have dreams… not goals. If you don’t know where you are going—any road the satirical excellence of the Ma- in India. There has been businesses won’t give until they will take you there,” says Khera. His workshops, honed with over 25 years through research Ha duo, a performance by a tremendous support from these receive something in return. Tax- and experience, are essentially about turning vision into action. Over 300 employees of regional musical group, and art and companies in highlighting the law reform is essential to make Nepali companies have participated in Khera’s earlier workshops. STC says this third round photo exhibitions that attracted importance of arts, keeping supporting artistic endeavours an is being organised to meet the demand of senior and middle-level managers who were quite a few. Fellow columnists and interest alive in this age and interesting proposition for the unable to attend the past rounds. friends in the arts have been asking helping make the field more private sector. Sample topics to be discussed include: overcoming negative emotions, building winning this Beed to examine the role of the professional. It is essential to Limited legislation is the other teams, three steps to motivation, discipline and persuasion, communicating to win, creative Nepali private sector in the field of realise that in Nepal there are few major stumbling block in the problem solving, turning weakness into strengths and prioritising values. Overall the the arts. As World Theatre Day is choices and if the objective legitimisation of arts-related workshops are about controlling things instead of letting them control you, says a course being celebrated this week, it’s a remains to make the arts prosper undertakings. Nepal unfortunately brochure. The key is doing the right thing for the right reason. The three-day workshops good time to ponder questions of here, then the source of funding does not have any Acts relating to normally cost about Rs 40,000 in India. Surya is offering the courses to Nepali managers for support for art and culture. becomes secondary. the formation of trusts, and so all Rs 10,000. Historically, Nepali arts and The other important factor is efforts must come either from theatre were patronised by the the willingness of the private private ventures or social service

New public issue guidelines rulers and there have been few sector. Taxation laws in this organisations. The system of ○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ ○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ instances of businesses being country are again a big hindrance. forming trusts is widespread The Securities Board, Nepal has issued new guidelines aimed at systematising the public involved in their promotion or If private companies and internationally. In most countries, issue of shares. The new guidelines come into effect on Nepali New Year, this year on 14 development. The business individuals are inclined to where the arts have not thrived April. Companies going public will now be required to show that they are sound investments. community did undertake activities contribute, there is no added with the support of private “There are separate guidelines for issue managers who will now need to ensure that in the social development field, but ventures, they have through trusts. companies comply with the new rules,” says Damber P Dhungel, chairman of the Securities these were mostly religious and If the formation of trusts was to Board. One measure of the soundness of companies is that they have strong financing—at cultural activities within find legal support, initiatives in least up to 50 percent of capital borrowed—as proof that the projects have been screened communities. The loosening of the drama, music, literature or any with due diligence. Companies with lower bank borrowings will be required to have issues bonds created by the guthis and the other form of art would surely underwritten prior to going public. “Essentially, we’re trying to say that only companies with absence of financial support have grow, and finally be sound track records and audited financial statements can go for public issues,” adds since affected the arts greatly. institutionalised. Together with a Dhungel. Other adjustments to the rules require companies to make shares available for There have been efforts from system of tax breaks and incentives, purchase within two months of the approval of the issue, and distribute shares to owners the private sector to support the there could be an ideal partnership within 90 days of the closing of the offer. The Board has also raised the minimum number of arts, but there are many who feel between the arts sector and the shares a person can apply for from 10 to 50. that not enough is being done. One business community in preserving, of the problems that many arts and sustaining and furthering the

Rupee tumbles theatre groups are facing in Nepal is development of creative forces ○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○

○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ that companies which have the in Nepal.  The rupee tumbled by Rs 0.25 against the greenback last week due mainly to adjustments financial muscle—and often willing in the exchange rate of the Indian rupee against the dollar. The dollar’s value was bolstered to come forward and help—to Readers can post their views at by the US Federal Reserve’s decision to lower interest rates by 0.5 percent. The Indian support their endeavours are mostly [email protected] rupee closed at Rs 46.68: US$1 Friday. Banks here were selling US dollars at Rs 74.60 per dollar Saturday, up from Rs 74.25 the week before.

Kulekhani–III T HE NUNS WELFARE FOUNDATION ○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○

○○○○○○○○ proudly presents The Nepal Electricity Authority (NEA) and the Japanese International Co- operation Agency (JICA) have agreed to begin detailed studies for building the Kulekhani III Hydroelectric project. Previous studies by the NEA estimate C Fé N - the project will be capable of generating 38-42 megawatts of power, mainly from the tailrace waters of the two earlier projects that generate power from using waters from the Kulekhani reservoir. The initial cost estimate of Kulekhani III is about Rs 3.87 billion. Chö: devotional songs to cut through ego clinging

Public expenditure review performed by

○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ The public expenditure review commission has submitted its final report to the government Ani Choying Dolma pointing out specific areas where costs can be cut. One suggestion is to cut the number of ministries from the present 22 to 19 and keep the government out of areas it doesn’t need to 5:30 PM, Sunday, 8th April 2001 be in. Another says that foreign loans be obtained only for projects that have a minimum Regency Ballroom, Hyatt Regency, Boudha return rate of 15 percent. The commission, formed on 31 August 2000, has also recommended that foreign loans be barred from corporations that have accumulated losses Rs. 700 and those that have not audited their books within nine months after the end of the fiscal year. It also suggests keeping security and defence budgets to about seven percent of the Proceeds support the Arya Tara School: total and downsizing the government bureaucracy by as much as 22,000. A free boarding school promoting the education and advancement of Buddhist nuns. For further information please contact

Himalayan Expo [email protected] or visit www.choying.com ○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ ○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ Tickets now available at the following locations: Over 200 companies from thirteen countries are exhibiting products at the 11th Himalayan Expo being held at the Fire and Ice Pizzeria, Thamel, 11 AM - 10 PM, ph. 250210 Bhrikuti Mandap exhibition hall on 20-25 April, organisers Dragonfly, at Mike’s Breakfast, 8 AM - 7 PM, ph. 414395 say. The foreign companies that have confirmed Simply Shutters, Baber Mahal Revisited, noon - 10 PM, ph. 253337 participation are from the US, UK, Germany, Israel, China, Hyatt Regency Kathmandu, Boudha, front desk, ph. 491234 India, Bangladesh, Pakistan, Hong Kong, Singapore, Malaysia and Thailand. in collaboration with: Among the highlights of the show are to be the Nepal-USA Pavillion that is to bring together 23 companies. One stall is to offer information on educational opportunities in the US. Another major group exhibiting would be from Britain. The British Pavillion will have 22 companies and organisations exhibiting their products and services. Among the British exhibitors are the British Council that is organising a film festival as part of the Expo. The organisers expect 70-80,000 visitors to the show. “Our target is to increase the number of business visitors of about 40,000 by about 10 percent,” organisers say. Publications ENTERTAINMENT 30 MARCH - 5 APRIL 2001 NEPALI TIMES 999 Golfing the Himalaya With scenic high-altitude putting, low rates and pleasant weather around the year, golf tourism

could be just what Nepal’s ailing tourism industry needs. Now if only it were pitched right.

○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ a 35-person group chartered a manner of time-share resorts at over Boeing 747 for a three-week golfing 1,800 affiliates of Interval Interna- trip. They stayed here two days and tional USA worldwide. The Fulbari played at the Gokarna resort. has started modestly, and all it What Nepal needs now are offers currently are discounted rates more world-class courses and a good for guests who want to tee off. marketing strategy. Robin Marsten, Things are moving in the managing director of Summit Hotel, Valley, clubs like the Royal Nepal himself an avid golfer, says: “Nepal are planning to upgrade their can be promoted as holiday golf facilities, and there’s a new course destination. Golf should be part of being developed, the Army Golf tour packages.” The Fulbari Resort Course east of the Guhyeswori and the Gokarna Forest Golf Resort temple in Pashupatinath. These have tried to do precisely this. The are good signs, but Nepal still has

ALL PHOTOS MIN BAJRACHARYA ALL PHOTOS ○○○○○○○○○○○

MUKUL○○○○○ HUMAGAIN course run by Le Meridien Hotel has venture, attracting the top bracket agency brought two groups of Gokarna Forest Golf Resort started a way to go before it becomes one t’s probably high on most golfers’ been greatly instrumental in making of travellers. There have been a few tourists here for golf vacations last a vacation club last year. A one-time of Asia’s premier golfing wish list: teeing off at 1,000 m with the sport popular in Nepal. golfing tours here, but all have been year, and earlier this month, a fee of Rs 320,000 entitles members destinations. First people must ithe breathtaking spectacle of the Pokhara has two courses, and organised by tour operators group from the UK’s Sonnig Golf to seven nights at the resort every know that there are golfing world’s highest mountains a few there’s a third coming up. The overseas. Snow Leopard Nepal Golf Club were here. Enthusiasm is year for 25 years, besides allowing opportunities here, and that these kilometres away, and waterfalls and Himalayan Golf Course is the Reizen, a Netherlands-based travel gradually building—last December them to swap holidays in the are being upgraded. canyons below. Or setting down to a brainchild of Major RB Gurung, putt with monkeys and deer regarding formerly of the British Army. Just you superciliously. Your golfing seven km from Pokhara’s centre, it is fantasies could turn into reality— the result of three years of planning WIN WAVEMAG Nepal has the potential to be the and hard work. The course, designed @ highest, most spectacular golf setting by Gurung himself, is in a spellbinding in the world. amphitheatre-like setting of a river Over the last few years, golf has canyon with views of the Annapurnas. become increasingly popular here. The clubhouse stands 250 ft above the There are courses opening every year, canyon. The Green Canyon Golf Club competitive golf is doing well, with Executive Golf Course at the Fulbari events like the Surya Open Resort and Spa, also in Pokhara, is a International and the domestic PGA challenging nine-hole par-three course, Carlsberg championship, and there are which attracts business travellers and some exciting Nepali putters like passing tourists. Deepak Thapa, Deepak Acharya and For beginners in the Valley, there’s Toran Shahi. We could give Asian the year-old Bafal Hill Golf Centre, turn the pages and Scandinavian destinations that which is basically a driving range. But use golf to attract high-spending the cream of the crop is the two-year- of your fate luxury tourists a run for their old Gorkarna Forest Golf Resort, money. Golf is booming in Japan inside the Gorkarna Safari Park— particularly, with an estimated 13 Nepal’s only international-standard million Japanese playing on 1,820 course. It’s a 6,715 yard 18-hole par- courses. India, Indonesia, Taiwan 72 course with lush fairways. Once a win stuff every week win stuff every week○○○○○○○○○ and South Korea are following the royal game sanctuary, the thick forest trend, as is the Philippines, where teems with deer, peacock, wild boar there are 40 courses. and monkeys, and Scotland’s world- Nepal is ideally positioned to famous Gleneagles Golf Developments attract travellers to the region as, say, designed the course to make best use log onto a stopover between New Delhi and of the spectacular setting. The setting Bangkok, or as part of triangular of the Valley’s two major courses, the ○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ packages including Thailand, Hong Royal Nepal club and the Gorkarna www.wavemag.com.np Kong and Singapore. A stop in resort, couldn’t be better—away from Kathmandu en route to a golf resort the noise and dust of the city, with in Thailand or Malaysia would add easy access to cool forests variety to a winter golfing tour—after Here’s what golfing in Nepal has all, in January it’s much warmer here going for it: scenic courses, relatively than in Frankfurt or Stockholm. And pleasant weather all year round, and golf is also a good way to get more a significant price differential with

Asian visitors. According to industry the cost of playing in Europe, the ○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ estimates, there are one million golfers US and east Asia. What’s wrong? within four hours’ flying time of Tourism entrepreneurs and the Kathmandu, and many more a little Nepal Tourism Board (NTB) further afield in Japan. The best thing haven’t yet grasped that this could about this segment of tourism is be a viable and lucrative new that volume isn’t everything— groups may be small, but they make POKHARA Himalayan Golf Course up for it by having more disposable Green Canyon Country Club income than most others. Executive Golf Course Golfers are always on the lookout The Fulbari Resort, for new, interesting courses. A ○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ diversity of playing fields, each with its KATHMANDU own character and challenges will Royal Nepal Golf Course, attract enthusiasts, and perhaps even Til Ganga Cyber Cafe at Jawalakhel repeat visitors. There are seven Gokarna Forest Golf Course, courses in Nepal. The Royal Nepal Gokarna, Golf Club at Til Ganga, known until Bafal Hill Golf Centre, Bafal 1965 as the Gauchar Golf Course, is DHARAN the oldest and most popular course in Dharan Country Club the country. This 9-hole, par-28 101010 ADVENTURE 30 MARCH - 5 APRIL 2001 NEPALI TIMES

ABC, and a trek to ○○○○○○○○○○○

USHA○○○○○ RAMASWAMY rock, lighting our way and easing ne evening on my very first our climb. Just before Doban (at trek in Solu-Khumbu, as I 2,340 m) we saw a most beautiful, osat shivering by the stove at early blooming rhododendron tree— the end of a hard day, I asked a ablaze with red blossoms. From here fellow trekker why he’d chosen this onwards, it is holy ground, no rather self-punishing form of meat is allowed, everyone has to holiday. For, besides all the joys of turn vegetarian. being in the mountains, you have to Hinko Cave is actually just a work very hard, and all the time, a huge rock overhang and guards a trek is in fact a working holiday. frozen avalanche, a jumble of ice, His answer: “Look. Last year I lay which must have tumbled down on a beach in the south of Spain, from Hiunchuli’s east face drinking beer. And you know how I recently. I slipped twice and slid felt at the end of each day? Empty. some feet on my backside, but Nothing. And my business worries we got into Deurali safely by late and other anxieties didn’t go away afternoon. The lodges had two either. In fact, I just had more guests, one with his nose pierced leisure to worry. But this, this, and the other with his ear takes you not only away from it pierced, both sporting flowing all, but also out of yourself. Not red locks. only is it beautiful and enjoyable, On Day Four, Dinesh took the but you’re so tired that there’s no long route to MBC, as he wanted to room for worry. Every moment skirt the areas of avalanche danger. that you’re not marvelling, you The word ‘avalanche danger’ is heard have to think what’s to be done a bit too often during this trek, and next. It’s a real break. And you that is because the route clings feel fulfilled at the end of it.” precariously to the side of the Modi In a life lived with little artistry Khola gorge, exposed to snow, ice Annapurna Base Camp with Annapurna South in the background at left.

and less heroism, and hardly any USHA RAMASWAMY and rock that gravity brings down. physical challenges, a trek in the The craggy cliffs loom on either side Himalaya offers redemption of a Were we going to be snowed up at Annapurna Base Camp as often happens on like chocolate pyramids dripping kind—at least for a while. The this route? And how were we to cross the avalanches, those dogs of Hades, at cream. Being a bit tired of daalbhat, smallest acts of will-power necessary the chocolate wedges look enticingly to get through each day (washing your the mouth of the sanctuary? Was this time, early spring, a bad decision? like food. But from time to time, the face in icy water) requires more Should we have heeded warnings of snow danger and started a fortnight later? snow-cream would cascade off the courage and resolution than you mountain with a thundering sound.

think. If, at times, you feel life lacks It was too late now, none of us were going to turn back. Dinesh assured me you needed very ○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ direction or purpose or fulfilment, ○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ heavy snowfall for really dangerous these few days provide, however either, you’ll get there on the morning through terraced cultivation. Yellow deep snow, and the cold. was going to turn back. There was avalanches. Despite his assurance I illusorily, a little of each. If there (or afternoon) of the fifth day. jasmine and blue gentians are in By this time, the sky, leaden nothing to do but pray. was relieved to reach the safety of doesn’t seem any drama, any As we walk up from Khare, our bloom this time of year, field and during the day, clouded over the The next day dawned, chill MBC, which turned out to be a grandeur in your life this is one old friend Machhapuchhre pops up to forest are a tender green, the air nippy Annapurna South, Hiunchuli and and…clear! We had a long walk group of four lodges on a glacial chance to experience it. our right and the familiar face of and full of bird cries, trills and long Machhapuchhre peaks. A thin drizzle ahead, my guide Dinesh and I were moraine. Machhapuchhre grew The trip to Annapurna Base Annapurna South looms to our left. fluting calls. It’s always a good idea to began, and grew to serious rain. Our making for Deurali—the last stop steadily as we progressed, and by now Camp, or ABC as we (ahem) trekkers We get into Landrung at about start early to do the hardest climbs apprehensions grew too—would the before Machhapuchhare Base Camp towered over the other peaks. We call it, is not an easy walk. As the 5.30pm, check into a hotel that offers before the day gets hot, and we were weather clear the next day or would (MBC, pronounced “embassy”). picked the first hotel which turned tragic avalanche this week showed, that rare facility: an attached off by seven. Chomrong’s Moonlight we have to tramp in the wet? When Chomrong is the last village on this out to be the Gurung Co-operative, there are a few spots near Deurali that bathroom. (This business of a private Guesthouse offered sun-heated hot the rain turned to snowfall, I was really route—from here there are only an odd name for a lodge—they’re are exposed to avalanches coming off bath can become quite an obsession showers—a welcome relief after two alarmed. Were we going to be snowed lodges operating during the season. almost all of them some View or the the flanks of Hiunchuli which funnels with some trekkers, and we shall see days of trekking. That afternoon we up in base camp as often happens on The steep and narrow trail rises and other, or Fish Tail or Heaven or accumulated snow and huge blocks of how it affected me later.) On this run were quite a crowd in the dining this route? And how were we to cross descends steeply, the rocks are huge Paradise or, of course, Annapurna. ice down gullies to the trail. (see box, only Landrung, Chomrung and room. Trekkers returning from the avalanches, those dogs of Hades, at and sharp, but the trail passes some The proprietor of the Gurung facing page). The highest altitude is Ghandrung provide this facility, which ABC, looking relaxed and fulfilled the mouth of the sanctuary? Was this of the prettiest country I have ever Co-operative was a cheery character, 4,130 m, and you reach it on the fifth answers a Frequently Asked Question. and trekkers going up, eager and time, early spring, a bad decision? seen. Tall rhododendron trees sporting a pair of iridescent or sixth day, so altitude sickness is The walk to Chomrong on the full of questions. The returnees Should we have heeded the holy bursting with buds, bamboo sunglasses, and given to fits of manic rare. If you begin, as I did, at Khare at opposite hill is a little more difficult raved about the views, and boasted book—Trekking in the Nepal thickets, deodar, yew and fir. On laughter. Too late I discovered he 1,100 m, and carry on steadily, not than the first day, though the trail is as not a little about surviving near Himalaya—and started a fortnight the slopes pale purple wild primula was also fond of his drink. Nobody scorching along but not ambling lovely—thickly forested or cutting misses with avalanches and knee- later? It was too late now—none of us bloom, like stars on the grey-brown else was staying in this lodge—most trekkers having gone on to ABC. I was too tired and also terrified at the thought of a recurrence of altitude sickness. That left me with a whole day in the company of porters and kitchen staff and other trekkers. Over the years I have come to recognise trekking types. The sturdy, cheery ones are Australian; the garrulous, good-looking ones with the gorgeous tans are South American; the noisy, shabby ones are Israeli; and the ones wearing spiffy, co-ordinated trekking outfits, usually bright yellow, blue or red, and smelling as if they’ve stepped out of pepsi Sak’s, are from the US of A. If you hear excited twittering, you can be sure there’s a flock of Taiwanese approaching. And we mustn’t forget the grim, crabby one who unabashedly stares at all the goings- on—she’s Indian. Also she’s the only one who says politically incorrect things like, “God! Can’t you guys learn to make a decent daal?” As the day drew on, the sky became heavy with clouds, and my worst forebodings came true. It was going to snow. And how it snowed. ADVENTURE 30 MARCH - 5 APRIL 2001 NEPALI TIMES 111111 USHA RAMASWAMY drag me across the last few feet. A little bit of powdery snow cascaded down the gully. The only other unpleasant bit left was the icefall near Hinko Cave and I resigned myself to sliding on my backside once more. Then we were through! Now the rest of the day was obasics just a matter of endurance. We took Mildly at first, but it grew heavier and After an hour we sighted ABC— just three breaks, two for hot heavier till all the peaks, indeed the another group of lodges 400 m higher. chocolate and one for lunch at landscape itself, was obliterated. I By this time my fingers, although the Bamboo Lodge. stared out of the window at the protected by gloves, had grown At Sinuwa, the last stop dismal weather. Dinesh kept trying painfully numb. It took a heater before Chomrong, where we had to comfort me that it augured well to thaw me out fully, and hot to decide whether to push on or for the next morning, but I’m sorry chocolate to reassure me I was stay, I began to get a little to report I had by this time lost my whole and healthy. Only then did embarrassed about my faith in Dinesh. He’d say things it dawn on me that…I’d done it! pigheadedness—which is an like, “Just a fifteen-minute climb,” I’d reached ABC. Dinesh beamed. extreme form of determination. I and it would take me half an hour, He’d done it: he’d brought off a imagined people telling each or “It’s not so steep,” for what picture-perfect day. We rewarded other: “There goes that crazy would turn out to be a murderous ourselves with a honey-smothered Indian woman who’s looking for a hill. Mr Gurung, who sat downing pancake apiece. bathroom!” The next two hours quarter bottles of Khukuri rum (the Then followed the longest drained my last bit of strength. most popular tipple in these parts) trekking day I have ever Finally, there were the lights of all evening, came up with an experienced. I got it into my head Chomrong, tantalisingly close, original piece of wisdom. “It’s full to make for Chomrong—a hospitably beckoning—but on the moon tomorrow,” he declared, “so journey that is usually split into next hill. To reach it we had to the sky will certainly be clear.” two or three days—all because I descend more than a 1,000 m, It was still snowing when I went wanted a room with a bath. cross the Modi Khola river and to my freezing room clutching the Dinesh asked worriedly, “Are you ascend the same height. But, to cleanest blanket in the hostelry and sure you can do this?” I was cut a long story short, I got my my hot water bottle (for which Mr obsessed with a bath, and I said own bathroom that night. Gurung charged Rs 70). Wearing yes. We retraced our route, this The next day was downhill all sweat pants over trekking pants, time taking the short-cut through the way, and ended with a walk yak-wool socks over cotton socks, the avalanche-prone area around by the river through a feathery flannel shirt over T-shirt, cap, Deurali. Dinesh had been deodar forest. Back in sweater and jacket—everything emboldened to try it as he figured Kathmandu to hot water taps, warm I possessed, I wriggled into there hadn’t been enough and a private bathroom, even a my sleeping bag. And, keeping the snowfall to start an avalanche. choice of bathrooms. Back to blanket as far away as possible from But when we crossed it, we heard deafening car horns, garbage dumps, my nose, listening to the shuffle of an ominous rumbling and he diesel fumes and noise. Back to snow on the roof, I tried to sleep. panicked. He hurried me, I insanity. It was all over, in point of The avalanche crossing at Deorali. At 5.15 am on Day Five, Dinesh slipped and fell, and he had to fact, bar the shouting.  USHA RAMASWAMY

Machhapuchhre Base Camp. Enroute to Machhapuchhre Base Camp. USHA RAMASWAMY

woke me. “It’s clear,” he whispered excitedly. I leapt to the window and sure enough, it was a perfect morning. All the peaks were Annapurna avalanches whitely, shiningly outlined against

the dawn sky, and an unmarked ○○○○○○○○

DEB○○○○○○○○ MUKHARJI Bagar the beauty of the gorge is notice and a sudden deep snowland spread as far as eye could palpably tinged with rumble wiping out everything in reach. Off we went, wrapped and The trek to the Annapurna apprehension because you the way. You see evidence of muffled against the light breeze, Sanctuary is among the most know that just behind the granite this as you cross the swathes waving our torches, the only living rewarding with its exquisite tips of the cliffs above you is the of destruction which have things in the still silent expanse. The forest trails and stupendous unseen vertical east-face of flattened and uprooted forests first things to stir this morning. But views of the high Himalaya. Besides the breath-taking Hiunchuli whose avalanches and the vast tracts of ice someone had been before us, Dinesh could spill over the rocky deposited by more recent pointed out pug marks that trailed off views from Machhapuchhre ramparts of Modi Khola without avalanches.  to the glacier. It was a leopard. and Annapuma base camps, The crunchy, sugary, new snow one will always remember was not difficult to traverse, just a the bamboo, oak and little slippery on the steeper parts. rhododendron (besides The views got more and more many others) forests dramatic. This is the drama in a between Sinawa and trek, this is the grandeur. Then the Machhapuchhre base camp. magical moment when the sun rose In the Lonely Planet to gild the Annapurna peaks. Gold, guide, Stan Armington white and blue. A celestial cautions about the ava- awakening. Imagine you’re in a lanches from Hiunchuli and DEB MUKHARJI white bowl, the sides of which are Annapurna South which made of some of the loftiest peaks, “come crashing into the overturned on this is another bowl valley with frightening speed and frequency”. In fact, A minor avalanche descending into Modi khola from the western slopes

of cobalt blue. That is the DEB MUKHARJI Annapurna Sanctuary. between Hinko cave and Debris of an old avalanche. of Machhapuchhre. WORLD 30 MARCH - 5 APRIL 2001 NEPALI TIMES 131313

Chemical Britannia

○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ Drug price wars and patent rows Taking cannabis, cocaine, ecstasy and even heroin is not Control Amendments Act. In effect, the dangerous but extremely enjoyable, according to a controversial Pharmaceutical giants slash AIDS drugs prices act incorporates two key provisions in BBC television programme to be aired this week. TRIPS: Parallel imports, which allow In dozens of interviews on Chemical Britannia users explain for Africa to counter bad publicity—and importers to buy drugs from the why the popularity of drugs is escalating, despite the cheapest sources available regardless overwhelmingly negative message in schools, the media and

because an Indian firm may be competition. of whether they have consent from from government. Debbie Christie, the executive producer, who ○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ ○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ patent holders, and compulsory used drugs in the past, said: “It’s an issue that DWIIJEN RANGNEKAR licensing, which allows the needs airing. It’s a responsible piece of

IN LONDON ○○○○○○○○○○○

○○○○○ government to license companies to television showing why people take drugs— merican drug manufacturer produce cheap versions of the which is because they like them, not because Bristol-Myers Squibb has made patented drugs. The big they are pushed them.” aa timely gesture as the legal fight pharmaceutical companies reject Presenter Mat Southwell, a former NHS between the world’s largest pharmaceu- both provisions and have responded employee, says he has taken ecstasy for 12 tical companies and South Africa by exerting pressure from outside. years, and still does so regularly. He enjoys remains on hold until mid-April. The European Commission President drugs and argues they should be legalised. New York-based company announced Sir Leon Brittan reportedly wrote to “While alcohol is socially acceptable, people are being put in it was slashing the prices in Africa of the South African government warning prison for the chemical equivalent of buying a round of two AIDS drugs, Zerit and Videx, them that its legislation “would appear drinks,” he said. from $20 a day to less than $1. The to be at variance with South African However, the programme was lambasted as irresponsible offer is the latest move in a game obligations under the WTO agreement by John Griffith, chief executive of the group Drug Abuse of one-upmanship in the pharma- on TRIPS and its implementation Resistance Education, which works in 500 schools to warn ceutical industry. would negatively affect the interests of children of the dangers of drugs. He said: “It’s very It began 8 March when another the European pharmaceutical disturbing—it makes people think there are benefits to taking American drug company, Merck, industry”. The US response was drugs.” announced it would offer its AIDS more direct and aggressive—it placed In the UK, all drugs were legal, and used routinely across drugs to developing countries at a South Africa on its watch list for society, until 1860. The former Prime Minister William Gladstone discount. Merck’s anti-retroviral drug potential trade sanctions. and Florence Nightingale used opium, while Queen Victoria Crixivan will cost a patient $600 a year, Taking their cue from these used cannabis. Arthur Conan Doyle wrote a graphic description while Strocrin will cost $500 per year. actions, the 39 companies launched an of Sherlock Holmes injecting drugs with a syringe as a normal These drug giants are responding to appeal to stop the government’s way of relaxing. adverse public perception of the importation of generic drugs at cut- Southwell insists this is a simple matter of human rights: pharmaceutical industry—in part due prices. It is in this mess that repeated “Individual freedom linked to social responsibility lies at the heart to a court case launched by 39 drug offers of cut-price or free drugs must be of our democracy. I absolutely assert my right to take any mind- companies to stop the South African placed and examined. The generosity of altering substance, be that ecstasy, alcohol, heroin, tobacco or government from importing cheap Merck’s offer aside—itself questionable cannabis. No one, least of all the state, has the right to tell me copies of drugs to fight its AIDS crisis. since Cipla’s prices are lower—are such otherwise.” (The Observer) Their offers are also a reaction to the one-off deals the solution? Clearly some

entry of Cipla, an Indian pharmaceutical companies prefer this Mbeki goes to Havana ○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○

manufacturer of generic drugs, with route rather than allowing governments ○○○○○○○ its proposal to sell South Africa has no plans to reduce drug prices. products, such as drugs, and sectors, the legal freedom and flexibility to act. Johannesburg - South African President Thabo Mbeki left for inexpensive copycat versions of eight Governments in developing such as health-related technologies, Consequently, there is no Fidel Castro’s Cuba over the weekend, seeking to cement a AIDS drugs at knock-down prices. countries are equally concerned. require special treatment separate from systematic basis on which a government relationship with one of the foremost backers of the armed But such moves are not a Thailand and Brazil have programmes binding World Trade Organisation can act in response to public health struggle against apartheid. Mbeki’s four-day day visit to Havana is substantive or long-term solution designed to enable wider access to (WTO) obligations that would allow emergencies such as the AIDS crisis in the first such official trip to the communist-ruled Caribbean island to the problem of patents and drug some AIDS drugs. The Brazilian degrees of flexibility to tailor national South Africa. In particular, the aim is to state by a South African head of state. access. Nor are they an effective government has told Roche and Merck legislation to national priorities and undercut a government’s effort to use The objective is to build on economic, health and educational means to resolve the issues raised that it may licence other companies to needs. Such considerations for national the TRIPS provisions allowing ties between the two states, officials said. Cuba trained fighters by the court case in South Africa, produce cheaper versions of their AIDS flexibility in designing domestic policy compulsory licensing and cheap drug and supplied weapons to the exiled African National Congress adjourned until 18 April. Merck drugs if prices are not substantially raise issues concerning the type of imports. The outcome has grave (ANC) in its battle against minority rule and poured thousands of itself hoped its offer will deflect reduced. In this entire melee, the action and the limits to such action, implications on how the provisions of its troops into Angola against white South African forces who criticism and demonstrate that response of South Africa’s Health given that the country is a member of a TRIPS concerning national flexibility in were supporting a rebel army. patents are not an obstacle to drug Minister Manto Tshabalala-Msimang multilateral global trading system. responding to public health Mbeki, who succeeded former President Nelson Mandela in access. The offer, which follows an is pertinent: “Even if a satisfactory Equally relevant is the issue of emergencies are interpreted. The battle 1999 as the country’s second democratic leader, has urged an earlier, more generous, deal agreement could be concluded with limits on “reasonable” return and is also likely to blow the lid on other end to the decades-old US economic embargo against Havana. between Pfizer and the South Merck or any other company, this profits for patent holders, and to what issues like the strategies of drug pricing, The South African leader is scheduled to deliver a speech at the African government, aims to spur would not erase the need for this degree this right should be considered the true costs of inventing a new drug University of Havana on the Millennium Programme for the other companies into similar country to ensure access to sacrosanct. A murky mix of these and the practice of securing patents. Renaissance of Africa, a policy goal crafted by Mbeki together action. But other companies affordable medicines.” questions are at the core of the legal The legal challenge by the with President Olusegun Obasanjo of Nigeria and Algeria’s remain wary. At one extreme is At the heart of the affair is the challenge to South Africa’s 1997 pharmaceutical companies might well Bouteflika, South African officials said. (Asian Age) Switzerland’s Roche, which says it question of whether particular Medicines and Related Substances be an erroneous decision.  (Gemini) Germans split on right to be proud WORLD PRESS PHOTO 1994

The Right beats a patriotic drum as a troubled nation faces history.

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IN BERLIN ○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○

KATE○○○○○○○○○○○○ CONNOLLY told the Süddeutsche Zeitung. Rau later tried to quell criticism by developing bout of soul-searching is troubling Germany as it tries to define his ideas to say that he was “proud of that which we have achieved in the acceptable face of patriotism in a country where nationalism Germany since 1949 and after 1989”, referring to the country’s postwar astill has an ugly resonance. rebuilding and the fall of the Berlin Wall. Fritz Kuhn, head of the government The debate, which reaches parliament this week, comes at a time when coalition partner, the Green Party, has accused the conservative opposition of more than ever the German identity is under challenge and the mark, the trying to win the support of the far Right. currency associated with its finest postwar achievements, is about to be But the political row is far more than a linguistic challenge about subsumed in the euro. expressing love for the fatherland without using the forbidden phrase. The What began as a squabble has polarised into a national debate. Centrist conservatives hope that it will help them to unseat the Social Democrats in ‘Bomber’, a right winger, teaches his kids in East Berlin. and left-wing politicians habitually shun patriotic rhetoric, but the mainstream the upcoming elections in the state of Rhineland-Palatinate. According to conservative opposition has increasingly adopted the mantra of the extreme conservative politicians, the extreme right-wing German Nationalist Party pages to patriotism around the world. They observed that it was a particularly Right—Ich bin stolz ein Deutscher zu sein (I’m proud to be German). When (NPD) approached the CDU last week asking if it could join its election bad time for British patriotism. Laurenz Meyer, general secretary of the opposition Christian Democrats campaign to hand out its “I’m proud to be German” stickers. The CDU The popular tabloid Bild concluded that the country had much to be (CDU), used the phrase in a magazine interview he was accused of “having the refused the request. proud of and a past for which it had responsibility. “Germany has a rich mentality of a skinhead” by Environment Minister Jürgen Trittin. Christoph Boehr, standing for the conservatives, has asked voters to sign a cultural heritage and a varied past. It is our duty to carry the responsibility for The 70-year-old President, Johannes Rau, was caught up in the debate. petition calling for Trittin’s resignation. “He is totally indifferent to this: for Goethe as well as for Hitler, for Gutenberg and Frederick the Great. Asked on TV whether he too was proud to be German, he said he was “happy Germany’s culture, history and identity,” he said. Schröder angrily retorted: We should defend our free, humane Germany and be really proud of it,” the and grateful” to be German, but that he “couldn’t be proud of it”. He “No one has a monopoly on patriotic beliefs.” He has called for a paper insisted. explained: “One cannot be proud of something one has not achieved oneself. parliamentary debate on German patriotism which will take place in the Commentators say the fact that Germany is holding the soul-searching It is not an achievement to be German, simply luck.” Thomas Goppel, general Bundestag this week. debate at all is a sign of the democratic maturity of a country which less than secretary of the Bavarian Christian Social Union, said Germans should The “pride debate” is seen as the successor of a debate on German six decades ago was ruled by a dictator. Although the assertion of national question whether Rau was patriotic enough to lead Germany. leitkultur—the high points of national culture which conservative politicians pride has become the motto of the Right, the Turkish-born Green MP, Cem But Chancellor Gerhard Schröder appeared to back his friend. “I am are keen that foreigners should study. In hardly any other country is national Özdemir, has tried to invert it into a symbol of inclusiveness. His website proud of the achievements of people and of the democratic culture. In this pride such a controversial topic as in Germany, with its difficult recent shows images of a black German citizen wearing a T-shirt carrying the phrase sense I am a German patriot, who is proud of his country,” the Chancellor history. Newspapers concluded as much last week as they dedicated whole Ich bin stolz...  (The Observer) 141414 ASIA 30 MARCH - 5 APRIL 2001 NEPALI TIMES Sharif and other northern towns “In schools children are taught have also given accounts of forced history which gives them identity. marriages to Taliban members in But the Taliban have replaced the report. “When families refuse, schools with madrassas (Islamic “The Taliban are not Afghans” they take the women and girls away seminaries),” Professor Amin says. by force,” it said. Amid all this, the “We have been Muslims for the last and its traditions. The Women’s role of Pakistan has come under 1,400 years and we kept our Day function was organised by a renewed focus. symbols and cultural identities. The group of politically-active Afghan During the brief on-again-off- Taliban are not Afghans. Therefore, women who have had to seek again tussle over the Bamiyan they don’t care about such things.” exile abroad and who want to statues, Pakistan twice urged the But the Taliban are used to return Afghanistan to its Taliban to rescind its demolition having their way. While traditions of tolerance. decision. A foreign office spokesman international outrage on the The Revolutionary Association said: “Pakistan attaches great Bamiyan desecration was loud, of the Women of Afghanistan importance to and supports the world reaction on women’s rights (RAWA), which fights for the rights preservation of the world’s issues is rarely that forceful. of Afghan women and democracy in historical culture and religious Similarly, concern over the refugee their country and oppose heritage.” But many political issue—Taliban policies have driven fundamentalism, would dearly like observers in Peshawar, a hill town millions out of Afghanistan—has to see the end of the Taliban. bordering Afghanistan, believe not matched the war of words over Since coming to power in things are not so straightforward. “I Osama bin Laden, the Islamic 1996, the Taliban has believe whatever is happening in terrorist wanted by Washington. systematically and brutally barred Afghanistan is the handiwork of The UN sanctions were women from attending schools or outsiders,” Afrasiab Khattak, imposed against the Taliban mainly working outside their homes. chairperson of the Human Rights because it failed to hand over bin They have been denied access to Commission of Pakistan, says. Laden. That meant that the Taliban Fading into history? An Afghan woman with her belongings health and they can only appear “Pakistan wants to scrap could continue abusing women’s MARTIN ADLER/ PANOS MARTIN in public wearing a traditional Afghan identity and give human rights with impunity. The The international reaction to women’s rights and refugees in head-to-toe robe. Afghanistan an Islamic identity bitter truth, say commentators, is Afghanistan has not matched the war of words over the Bamiyan A recent UN report accuses the which suits Pakistan better,” adds that the world community’s interest Taliban of continued flagrant Khattak, who spent several years in Afghan issues has waned with the

desecration and Osama bin Laden. violation of women’s rights. The in Afghanistan during the military closing of the Cold War. According ○○○○○○○○○○○○ ○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ report, rejected by Taliban Foreign rule of Gen Zia ul Haq in to rights campaigner Khattak, NADEEM YAQUB IN PESHAWAR

○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ Islamabad enjoys over the Taliban supreme leader Mullah Mohammad Minister Mullah Wakil Ahmad Pakistan in the 1980s. Afghanistan’s woes mounted when alf-a-dozen teenage girls regime in Afghanistan. The girls Omar’s order to destroy two 1,500- Mutawakil, cites testimonies from Professor Rasool Amin, an Western powers abandoned the frantically hide their books beat up the soldiers. And the year-old statues of the Buddha in refugees saying women and girls Afghan scholar, holds similar views. country after Russia’s withdrawal. hunder the rug as two bearded audience breaks into claps. the war-battered country. have been abducted by the Taliban. He says Afghan society was a This allowed the regional players to soldiers storm a house in These days, happy endings on The status of women and the The report quotes refugees relating moderate one until the Taliban swiftly step into their shoes and Afghanistan. The girls are not anything to do with Afghanistan threats against non-Islamic religious stories “of abduction of women, arrived there from seminaries in create an Afghanistan after their supposed to be reading books. One happen only on the stage. This was artefacts have one thing in rape, infliction of the punishment of Pakistan. Iran and Saudi Arabia too own images.  (Gemini) of the soldiers breaks into Urdu, a skit staged in Peshawar recently common: they show an intolerance stoning, lashing and other forms of had their own interests, the latter Pakistan’s national language, in a to mark International Women’s that, some long-time observers say, inhuman punishment.” massively encouraging the Nadeem Yaqub is a freelance journalist political reference to the influence Day—8 March—after Afghan is uncharacteristic of Afghanistan Women from Kabul, Mazar-e- “Arabisation” of Afghanistan. based in Peshawar. Blame it on Bollywood

Corporate muzzle for media ○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ The Malaysian government is moving to counter the “negative influence” of popular Indian movies on Malays, including the The Thai PM is under attack over possibility of importing Arabic movies for screening on TV networks issues of press freedom and here. The move comes after the Malaysian Council of Islamic Jurists (Mufti) said that Indian movies, which are hugely popular here, are corruption, casting shadows over his having a corrupting influence on the majority Malay population. A Council spokesman claimed the movies have a strong influence

political future. among poorer Malays who have much spare time to watch

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IN BANGKOK JEAN LEO DUGAST/ PANOS that lead to incidents of incest. TOM○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ FAWTHROP The government immediately announced a study into the social he political future of Thailand’s newest prime minister, media tycoon impact of Indian movies in Malaysia and persuaded television Thaksin Shinawatra, has been cast in doubt as controversy over alleged channels, which show Bollywood movies almost every day, to limit tnews manipulation and a pending corruption case overshadow his screenings from April. Likewise, the government says that it will import January election victory. The controversy goes to the heart of freedom of Arabic movies and ask TV networks to screen these to balance the press in Thailand, which has been achieved after a long and hard-fought Indian influence. Information Minister Tan Sri Khalil Yaakob battle against a series of military regimes. recently told a gathering of leaders of the ruling United Malays Food stall owner tunes into portable TV set in Sukothai, Thailand In 1992, pro-democracy activists were gunned down in Bangkok, but National Organisation (UMNO) party that these movies should be the military-controlled TV stations released fabricated news reports and a challenge to a corporate ban on union activity in the Labour Court, and a welcomed by Malaysia’s Muslim viewers because they were suppressed footage of the carnage. Consequently, military leader and prime challenge to blatant violations of the Thai Constitution, which guarantees press produced by Muslim countries. The Mufti members are also believed to be concerned about minister, General Suchinda Krapayoon, resigned, Thailand returned to freedom in the civil court. the statues, images and idols of Hindus in democracy and elected a civilian government, which pledged to enshrine The Shinawatra camp defends its controversial investment in ITV as a Indian films. Bollywood stars like Shah press freedom in a new constitution. purely business decision, a curious claim given that the company lost $18 Rukh Khan and Salman Khan, who are Thai media has flourished since 1992, with a proliferation of new radio million last year. It also claimed that the 23 journalists were dismissed because extremely popular especially among stations and the establishment of ITV—Independent TV—to provide of “economic considerations—having less news and more entertainment to Malay women, are Muslims. Opposition professional and critical news coverage of the region. ITV pioneered investigative attract more viewers and advertising revenue.” politician and Islamic scholar Dr television reports on corruption, and dared to document atrocities committed in TJA’s Chongkittavorn, also editor of the English-language daily The Nation Chandra Muzaffar says one problem Thailand’s 1976 military coup, winning a number of awards for the quality and founding president of the South East Asian Press Alliance, argues that the the Muslim clerics see may be that and independence of its coverage. Today, press freedom is under threat prime minister’s strategy of increasing corporate control over the media will seek these actors’ taking part in Hindu again, say some journalists—this time from corporate control by to neutralise or co-opt print media as well. “Only the Thaksin-friendly media rituals in the films. The clerics Shinawatra. “Thaksin wants total control over information,” says Thai will get access to advertising from state agencies, so the more critical newspapers are also worried about what to them has been the increasing Journalist Association (TJA) president Kavi Chongkittavorn. will be starved of revenue,” predicts Chongkittavorn. incidents of Malay girls marrying Such comments come after 23 journalists were fired from ITV’s news But financial clout and corporate control are not everything in a Bangladeshi migrant workers in department by the prime minister’s telecom giant, Shinawatra Corporation, changing South-east Asia, where corrupt leaders are increasingly being the country—because they are which acquired a 41 percent controlling stake in ITV last year. Long before the challenged and ousted from power. In spite of Shinawatra’s popular seen as lookalikes of the election campaign started in December 2000, Shinawatra’s company fired mandate in January’s general election, press freedom and corruption have Bollywood superstars. respected ITV news chief Thepchai Yong, replacing him with a corporate cast shadows over his future. Muzaffar dismisses these manager with no previous media experience. The PM is also facing a corruption investigation over making false simplistic arguments. “In factories Journalist Karuna Buakamsri, who was later fired, said Shinawatra declarations about his financial assets. Some of his assets were transferred in the countryside, Malay women Corporation’s new appointment blatantly interfered in ITV’s election in the name of his servants. On 19 January Thailand’s highest court and Bangladeshi men work side by coverage, pulling out any news items unfavourable to Shinawatra’s Thai formally accepted corruption charges against the prime minister—and if side, while Malay men shun these jobs. Rak Thai (Thai love Thai) party. “The critical news approach of ITV, this convicted he could face a five-year ban from holding political office. The This creates the environment for inter- ethnic romances,” he says. The number of is what Thaksin is most afraid of,” Buakamsri said. case is likely to be decided before the end of the year. Malaysian women marrying Bangladeshis In January, seven journalists signed a joint protest statement deploring A key factor in Shinawatra’s bid to stay in power and head off the has already prompted the government to clamp down on the hiring of censorship and interference by the station’s chief executive, which included corruption case in the months ahead is his near total control over the nation’s migrant workers from Bangladesh. “It (Bollywood) is wrongly identified pressures and threats on journalists who insisted on critical reporting. All seven TV stations, of crucial importance in moulding public opinion. The battle to with another community in our midst—people of Indian origin. were immediately fired. Since then another 16 journalists—who had formed defend press freedom takes on an ever-greater relevance with Thai courts and Hollywood and western culture are not,” observed Chandra. the ITV media workers’ union—have also been sacked. “It’s like fighting judges not enjoying a tradition of an independent judiciary. The clerics’ call has also come at a rather awkward time for the Goliath,” said Sakoldet Silapong, one of the fired reporters. “We know we Hope is not lost, however. The newly-formed National Counter Mahathir government, which has been strongly wooing the are not going to win easily, but we will fight to the end.” Corruption Commission surprised most with its success in convicting the Bollywood film industry in recent months to entice it to use The 23 journalists are now engaged in three separate court actions against powerful Interior Minister Sanan in the last cabinet, forcing him to resign— Malaysia as a location for shooting films. (IPS) ITV’s management. They have filed wrongful dismissal compensation claims and proving that money can’t always buy power.  (Gemini) FROM THE NEPALI PRESS 30 MARCH - 5 APRIL 2001 NEPALI TIMES 151515

Kowtowing to Rajan collect their monthly cheques to accordance with the constitution of ○○○○○○

○○○○○○○○○○ write about the acceleration of ISI 1990 and the Muluki Ain of 1963. Dunai hangover Deshantar, 25 March activities in Nepal. An official at the Human rights organisations, Dalits secretary level can confound the and other social organisations are Prakash Jwala in Budhabar, 21 March The representatives of the people leaders of Nepal. Self-proclaimed raising questions concerning the

PADAM GHALEY are unwilling to sit down together intellectuals compete to organise working and attitude of policemen. On the night of 25 September, 2000, and discuss issues relating to the seminars by inviting guests short- They say the police are not acting Maoists attacked the district headquarters well-being of the people. Ironically, listed by the Indian embassy. The properly and are, in fact, working of Dolpo. This attack caused huge losses. Last month, I got a chance to visit Dolpo when a joint secretary-level staff blessings of Pashupatinath cannot against the national interest. A and understand the situation there. This member of a foreign government sustain this country for long if the public programme was held recently article is an attempt to portray whatever I arrives, our leaders are willing to go brains of intellectuals who in Kathmandu to discuss the matter saw and experienced in Dolpo. his hotel to meet him. Even supposedly create the opinion and to take steps and actions Dolpo is a land beyond the Himalaya, someone nominated by the king to needed to run the country can be against all people and organisations filled with high mountains, deep ravines. the Upper House, and who bought. How can one expect the that show such attitudes. These No proper transportation facilities have considers himself a nationalist of leaders to safeguard the sovereignty groups have asked the government been developed there because of the high terrain. But even among so much difficulty Dolpo is a beautiful high stature, also went to visit the of 23.9 million Nepalis if a nod of to look into the case and to take land. The land is filled with all sorts of herbs that have medicinal values such as the miracle herb official. He even gave the foreign the head from across the border can strong action against everyone yarchagumba, jaatamaasi, paanch aunle, and so on. The future of Dolpo could look bright if these resources official his mobile phone to use form or dissolve a government and found guilty. Cases are going to be could be properly utilised. for the duration of his stay here. even establish or topple a political filed against the guilty in the district The land is like a separate kingdom on its own. The residents of Upper Dolpo who don’t even understand or speak Nepali have a completely different lifestyle, language. The people are not only backward in terms We don’t know what interests system? How can the future of court in Kavre. In spite of all the of politics, economy, and society but are also lagging in awareness. Due to the lack of education social evils are at play. Nepalis be safe when their elected turmoil this incident raised, no like the caste system, and numerous superstitions still exist in plenty there. The economic hardships, social Former Indian ambassador KV leaders cannot sit together for five action has been taken against Udas. discrimination and the political dominance by influential people have frustrated and angered the Dolpa- Rajan’s five-day visit (March 15- minutes to think about the

pas. This frustration and anger has been a major advantage for the Maoists. The Nepali Congress has shown 19) not only showed that parties country’s problems? Maybe out of VIP treatment ○○○○○○○○○○○ the same dominance that the rulers in the Panchayat era displayed. Leftist parties were weak in Dolpo like the CPN-UML and the the fear that if they lost power it ○○○○○ before NC and RPP leaders went into the CPN-UML party. Although the Maoists are now active in this Rastriya Prajatantra Party (RPP) cannot be regained without Jana Ahwan, 23 March region, the once politically weak region is still a CPN-UML stronghold. The Maoists could never establish a that are aspiring to come to power approval from across the border, proper organisation in Dolpo. The Dolpo-pas who went and worked in the nearby districts of Jajarkot need India’s support, but even led even the nominee of the constitu- The office of the civil aviation and Rukum have come back as Maoists and it is these people who are now active here. Although Dolpo people to wonder if the king also tional monarch went to seek ministry at Tribhuvan International is not a Maoist stronghold there have been a few important activities. Besides the Dunai attack there needed the backing. Otherwise, assistance. What could be more Airport (TIA) has sent a letter to all have already been two other attacks that left three policemen dead and several others wounded. aviation companies asking them to Deserted police posts have been burnt, people abducted, workers of the CPN-UML beaten and robbed, there was no reason for someone shameful than this for Nepalis who like Ramesh Nath Pandey, who have always been told that they provide refreshments to outgoing businessmen and others extorted. and incoming VIPs. The office says But these attacks have also caused losses to the Maoists. When they attacked Tribeni Chowk in 1997, calls himself a royalist, to present were never colonised? three policemen died but a commander of the Maoists, Duatal Bikram Gharti, was also killed. Local Maoist his mobile phone to Rajan (who is the concerned companies will be leaders Nanda Neupane, Prasad Budha, Chandra Bahadur and five others were murdered by the police. retiring from government service Untouchability responsible for all VIPs passing The assassination of the main leaders of the region during the initial phase of the revolution made it soon) and be there to offer his through the airport.

difficult for the movement to spread. Some are still being held prisoners. services. Rajan himself wanted to still reigns Sources say an aviation industry ○○○○○○○○○○○ ○○○○○ veteran has stated that airlines will The Maoists have tried to link Dolpo to Rukum and Jajarkot which are under their control. The Maoists keep his visit a personal one. Budhabar Saptahik, 21 March consider Dolpo as being under their control only because of the harsh geographical terrain and the weak The most interesting part of the be able to provide all facilities to presence of government forces. Dolpo is also financially beneficial to the rebels. Yarchagumba, the miracle VIPs as befitting their stature, but affair concerns political leaders. Sanu Babu Bishwakarma’s problems herb, which is found in plenty in this region is harvested by the local businessmen. The Maoists tax the will be unable to provide Not just the general secretary of the have now become public. Sanu businessmen at Rs 2000 per kilo of the herb. The rebels also buy the herb from locals at Rs 7/8 per piece refreshments. The letter states that UML Madhav Kumar Nepal and its Babu had refused to wash the and sell it at Rs 20/25. Approximately 4-5 quintals of the herb is harvested in Maajpal Maikot. The Maoists refreshments should be provided powerful leader KP Oli, even RPP tumbler he had used at a tea stall. have been able to tap this resource for their finances. within 20 minutes of the arrival of The violence has had a bad impact on the people. Activities of other political parties have been president Surya Prasad Thapa This led to ‘high’ caste people the VIPs. Airline sources say that stopped, locals have been heavily taxed, there is plenty of misuse of firearms, but they have also done overlooked protocol and rushed to abusing him and even threatening airline staff will be busy with their some productive work. Campaigns against alcohol and gambling have been started. Bigamists and frauds the Soaltee to meet Rajan. He then and beating him up. He then work, and there will be no one to have been brought to trial, and schools and roads constructed. met the Prime Minister at went to the district headquarters, provide refreshments to VIPs. If the As soon as Dolpo is mentioned Dunai comes into mind. Even six months after the incident there is still Baluwatar. It is hard to tell what Banepa to complain, but no one airlines are to start providing talk of it. The Maoists have defined this as a historic achievement. This was indeed a big incident. Fourteen listened to his problems. He then policemen lost their lives, three buildings of the district police headquarters, the jail, and two bridges were refreshments to these people, chaos came to Kathmandu looking for destroyed. The bank in Dunai lost some Rs 6 million as well as some arms and ammunition. Papers in the will set in and all flights may be justice. A team was immediately tax office were burnt. Nineteen inmates from the prison in Dunai were freed. The Maoists also seemed very disturbed. People working in sent from Kathmandu to look concerned about not harming the general public or destroying private property. One example of this was the airlines say they are capable of and into this matter. carefully planned and meticulously operated attack on the Dunai jail which lies in the middle of private will provide all other necessary Twenty-five days ago, Sanu houses. But the people of Dunai take this as a sad incident and still remember it. help, but refreshments should be However highly the Maoists take the Dunai incident, in the long term it is bound to affect them nega- Babu refused to wash the tumbler the government’s responsibility. tively. Winning is not the most important thing in a war, sustenance of the victory or the prize is equally that he had used in Kaji Lal Udas’ important. The Maoists attacked Dunai but were not able to keep it under their control. This incident also shop. Udas asked Sanu to wash the

proved that the hit-and-run strategy adopted by the Maoists causes more damage than good. Severe effects tumbler, but Sanu refused saying Maoists vs ML ○○○○○○○○○○○ of the Dunai incident are now beginning to come out. As a result the army can now be brought out of the ○○○○○ that he had paid for the tea. When Saptahik Bimarsa, 23 March barracks. Likewise, the creation of the Armed Police Force and the handing over of the security of many KV Rajan Sanu refused a second time and was district headquarters to the army by the government is a direct result of the attack. This has proved how the leaving, Udas abused him and got attack has been more harmful to the Maoists. Dunai is still barren: walls are still lying as they were after the A major clash seems to be taking place the outcome of these secret two of his friends together, and attack, the jail is still a heap of rubble and even the district police headquarters has not been re-built. The between the Maoists and the meetings with Rajan will be, but these people then thrashed Sanu till bank has moved to a room in the guest-house. The promise made by the minister to make a funds available CPN(ML) concerning the bandh the events have made one thing he was unconscious. Sanu cried for for reconstruction and return the money of the people back has still not been fulfilled. Even the Maoists called for 6 April by the student wing clear—the leaders have shown help but no one came forward to have not returned the money and gold belonging to the people taken from the bank. The Dunai attack of the ML. As soon as the Maoists hangover still lingers. their voters that the ‘remote help him. He was unconscious for came to know of this, they got in control’ for Nepali politics is not over two hours and later his father touch with ML leaders and requested within the country. came and took him away. This them to ask the students to withdraw QUOTE OF THE WEEK The situation is strange. One time, Sanu and his father were both the bandh. The ML leaders refused to group that claims to be the true attacked by Udas and his friends. do this and this is now causing Between my recent prison experience and the ones from the Panchayat era, I did not find any difference. representative of the poor people Sanu filed a case at the local problems between the two parties. has taken to the jungle, is making police station and hoped that justice The Maoists then got in touch with —Krishna Sen, editor of Janadesh, in an interview to Jana Ahwan, 23 March bombs and is ready to chop off the would be dispensed, but in vain. the ML students and asked them to heads of other Nepalis. It is not Instead of helping him, the policemen withdraw the bandh but the students ready to listen to those who have threatened him, abused him and asked also refused. opinions different from theirs. The him to go away. Sanu then went to The ML students have reacted CPN-UML has the potential to the district police headquarters in very strongly against this attitude of provide leadership and is in Dhulikhel, but there too, no one was the Maoists. They feel that the parliament, but is unwilling to prepared to help him. Instead the Maoists have a very condescending listen to explanations from the police stated that Sanu had been attitude and always try and force ruling party. The leaders of the beaten up by his father, accused him their way. In reply to the Maoist RPP, the Nepal Sadhbhavana of filing a false case against Udas and request, the ML students instead Party, the National People’s Front fined him Rs 10,000. Sanu also had to told them that they should support and the Nepal Workers’ and pay Rs 1,080 for the food and alcohol the bandh, and in return, the ML Peasants’ Party are in the same that the police consumed while he would support the bandh called by position. Nepalis never learn to was at police headquarters. the Maoists on 7 and 8 April. The love and trust their compatriots. Exactly a year earlier, Bail Maoists have retaliated by calling Why do the leaders prefer to trust Bahadur Sunar of Sindhupalchowk for a bandh on 6 April. This is the foreigners rather than their own had been fined Rs 33,000 by the first time that two political parties party members or members from police for refusing to wash a tumbler have called for a bandh on the very opposition parties and their he had used in a local restaurant. At same day and people are finding this colleagues from other parties? that time the local Dalit community very strange and difficult to digest. The Nepali press claims to set protested strongly and action was This has led to problems between the agenda for debate but journal- taken against the police officer Indra the Maoists and the ML and it ists, both senior and junior don’t Bahadur Tripathi. The police are The opposition is showing off. Why don’t you go and sit there, Sher Bahadurji? seems that no one is prepared to hesitate to sing Jana Gana Mana again displaying the very same give way. Nepal Samacharpatra daily, 25 March under the Indian tricolour and attitude. They are not acting in

THIS PAGE CONTAINS MATERIAL SELECTED FROM THE NEPALI LANGUAGE PRESS 161616 SPORTS 30 MARCH - 5 APRIL 2001 NEPALI TIMES “Onon on on” hounds start 15 minutes later, and try to play catch-up with the hare but usually don’t. If they do, the hare must stand everyone a round of beer. The average run is 5-8 km long and lasts 45 minutes to an hour. Run over, it is customary for the tired hare and the hounds to Guzzling beer at the end of a run. retire to the nearest pub and engage in intensive rehydration therapy. can be any nationality and are from The first hash started in all walks of life and all ages. There October 1938 in Kuala Lumpur, are even some septuagenarians, Malaysia by expatriate Britons, one keeping pace at a decent trot. an ex-British Army official. The The basic idea behind hashing “hash” here does not refer to seems to be just having a good time, smokeable resin. The official story and feeling like you’re getting is that the Selangor Club in Kuala exercise in the bargain. “It’s just a Lumpur was called the Hash House way to relax and build because it served a lot of, well, hash companionship,” says Fr Bill browns. This was the unspectacular Robbins, who’s been running since imperial beginning of a beer- 1983. Says 40-something Ashok Fr Bill Robins drinking club with the runs and a Bhattachan, one of the few Nepali great deal of arcane technical terms hashers: “At our age having some rather “laddish” image the activity comprehensible only to veterans... company on a run is more relaxing is saddled with. The only rule in Hounds on the trail. The idea spread, and since the sun and fun.” There aren’t many Nepali hashing is that there are no rules. never set on the empire, hashers runners, but the HHHH is open to You don’t even have to finish the Twenty-two years after the Himalayan Hash House Harriers have proliferated to just about every all. “There are no bars at all, run. Rs 200 gets you all the beer corner of Planet Earth. anyone and everyone is welcome to you can drink and Rs 50, soft

began, the hares and hounds are venturing further afield. The Himalayan Hash House join,” says David Potter, the drinks. In fact, now that numbers ○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○

○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ Harriers was started on 15 October present Grand Master, as the are rising, the Grand Master even

1979 by Keith Robinson, who organiser is called. Initially the runs manages to provide snacks. ○○○○○○○○○○○

ALOK○○○○○ TUMBAHANGPHEY countryside with the lure of beer at trying to hunt the poor animal founded the Kuala Lumpur, Belait were gender-segregated, but years The Himalayan Hashers have he Himalayan Hash House the end of the line. down. Hashing’s the same, but all (Brunei) and the Dacca Hash, with after universal suffrage, hashers covered almost the entire Kathmandu Harriers (HHHH)— The idea of “hashing” came the participants are human. The fox Roger Binks, founder of the Cyprus around the world decided that their Valley. Their weekly runs are usually tsomething to do with cannabis from the rather dubious English here is called the hare. He starts Hash. That’s over two decades of sport, too, could use some held on the outskirts of the Valley, in the Himalaya, you think. Wrong. custom of fox-hunting where the first and marks the trail for the the highest hashing in the world. desegregation, and men and women areas few Kathmanduites normally The HHHH, like 1,500 other hash Lords dress up in full hunting hounds with shreds of paper. The highest run the HHHH had run side by side today. This is called venture to.  groups around the world, are a regalia, let a fox loose and set a Besides littering, the hare’s was at Lauryabinayak, below a Mixed Hash, and even families are bunch of sweaty runners who pack of hounds after it. At the objective is to set up a good trial Gosiankunda, at 15,000 ft. There known to participate. Potter is For inquiries contact: participate in a mad weekly non- sound of the bugle, the Lords and run and fool the hounds by marking have been hash treks to the Solu encouraging this sort of radical [email protected] competitive dash across the Ladies gallop after the hounds, the path with confusing signs. The Khumbu as well. Today, hashers behaviour, mainly to counter the Global website: www.gthhh.com 181818 CITY 30 MARCH - 5 APRIL 2001 NEPALI TIMES ABOUT TOWN CLASSIFIED

MOVIES ○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ Kathmandu Film Archives and the Nepal Russia Film Society present A Letter to Heaven Dolphin Guest House Vadilal Ice Cream Pure Vegetarian (Chinese with subtitles). Russain Cultural centre. Friday, 30 March, 5.30 pm. Tickets Rs 50 at Modern accommodation with rooftop 522923, 529199. Fax 526123. Mandala Book Point in Jamal, Momo King branches; Pilgrims Bookstore, Thamel, and Martin garden. Excellent value and friendly service. www.vadilalgroup.com. Lalitpur, Dhobighat. PO Box 12170, Thamel. Chautari, Thapathali. [email protected]. 240065 Amatya Block Works [email protected]. Nepali and Hindi movies online ticket booking at www.nepalshop.com Zinc blocks, rubber stamps, nylon stamp, New Yeti International nylon block, cinema slide & negative and EATING OUT We deal in all kinds of physical fitness positive. Ghantaghar, Jame Market. Tel Exotic coffee and Nepali food Jatra houses a café, reading room, a dark room, craft shop equipment, joggers cycles, multi gym, 252485. and an art gallery. Saat Ghumti, Thamel. www.jatranepal.com 433859 home gym etc. Tel 231017, 242057. Deepak’s Print and Craft Shop Movenpick ice cream Exotic desserts at the new ice-cream boutique on Darbar Marg. European Mountain Bike for Sale Exporters, wholesaler and manufacturers of Weekend Buffet Lunches at The Café overlooking the pool. Rs 850+tax. 11am onwards. Very good condition, 21 gear front Nepalese handmade paper, cotton garments, Hyatt Regency. 491234 suspension. Make: Dunlop. $400. Contact woollen goods and other handicrafts. Thamel. Organic vegetable market and lunch Special vegetarian organic lunch every Sunday at the Andre at 424147. Tel 358476. [email protected]. Summit Hotel, Kupondole. 10am-12.30pm. Rs 350+tax. Also enjoy Summit food week-round at the Patan Museum Café. 521810 Hostels for students and working people Umesh Rice Mills Everest Hotel Bengali food festival at The Far Pavilions. Entertainment Comfortable and homey hostel available at Fresh and excellent rice production and sales by Anil Karki. 23 March-1 April. Saturday Splash, buffet with a free drink Siphal. Tel 481577. centre. Confident home delivery service and swimming. Adults Rs 555, children under three ft, Rs 299, nett. BBQ available. Subash Chandra Rai, Tel 530901, Kiran Store at the Ropes Lunch 12 noon-2.45pm. Talchikhel, Lalitpur. Please remember us for provisions, Dinner 7pm-10.45pm. Brilliant views groceries, dairy products, ice creams, For reservations 488100 sausages, salami, dry meat, ham, chicken For insertions ring NT Marketing at Shangri La Hotel’s Chinese items etc. Kalimati. Tel 274476. 543333-36. restaurant Tien Shan has a new chef. 7pm onwards daily. Indian Thali at the Pilgrims Feed ‘N’ Read Restaurant in QUICKWORD 26 by CROSS EYES Thamel (next to Kathmandu Guest House). Also enjoy South Indian dishes, Tibetan snacks including Thukpa. 5pm-7pm amidst the garden ambience of HOUR 25- flowers, trees, and marble sculptures by Akhilesh Rai. 424942 WIN A INFOCOM

EXHIBITION MILLENNIUMWORTH CD A Festival of Photography “Photographs of Mustang” by Hungarian Normantus Paulius, RS 1500/- “Photographs of Nepal” by Japanese Kioji Masuo, and “Great Moments of World Championship in Athletics”. 19 March-2 April. Siddhartha Art Gallery, Babar Mahal Revisited. The most convenient and economic way to surf the internet Terms and conditions DANCE 1 The contest is open to everyone, except employees of Himalmedia Pvt Ltd DJ Bishwas every evening at the Rox Bar, Hyatt Regency. Live Jazz Sunday, Monday, and Infocom Pvt Ltd. 2 In case of more than one correct entry, the winner will be decided by lucky Wednesday, and Thursday. Latin nights Friday and Saturday. Hyatt Regency, Taragaon. 491234 draw. Sunday Night Fever Free dance classes every Sunday by dancemaster Andreas Lehrke. 3 Entries have to reach Himalmedia, by 5 pm, Tuesday. Salsa, swing and more. The Piano Bar. Hotel Yak & Yeti. 8.30pm. 248929 4 The winner will be announced in the coming issue. 5 The prize has to be collected from Himalmedia within a week of the announcement. Please come with an ID. MUSIC Across Down Fever at the Jazz Bar Cadenza (Tuesday and Thursday), live Irish band (Friday) and solo 1 Musically rendered praises (4) 1 Ponds cream (4) 5 Study in world’s freeway capital (4) 2 Big dipper to the gazers (4) piano the rest of the week. International cuisine and drinks, espresso, cognac and cigars. 9 Hag, etc (5) 3 Christmas, in the carol (4) 412999 11 Partly or prudish rose (4) 4 I knew this antelope (3) Live shows at the Red Onion Bar Various bands every evening. Lazimpat. 416071 12 Consumption increase, 5 Delivery, and back up (3) QUICKWORD ANSWER 25 Unplugged guitar Syabru Lama at the Coffee Shop, Hotel de l’Annapurna. Every evening perhaps (3,2) 6 Five shillings, and an uneasy 7.30pm-10.00pm. 221711 13 Hurt and angry (4) head (5) 14 Malady cleaves badly (3) 7 Pizza dough, perhaps (5) Jazz by Cadenza at the Upstairs lounge, Lazimpat. Every Saturday, 7.30pm-10pm. Rs 200. 15 Ides, in March (2) 8 Me former, charge card (4) Kishore Gurung plays classical guitar at the Chimney, Hotel yak & Yeti. Every evening 17 Eloquent in an apiary (3) 10 Cut time in Porsche (6) 8.00pm onwards. 248999 18 Aqueous fantasies (6) 16 Felt anxious and distressed (6) Classical Sitar Pilgrims Book House auditorium, Thamel. Sundays, Tuesdays and Fridays 20 Paleface protection (6) 18 Switch position (2) 7.00pm to 8.30pm. Rs 300. 22 Pastor’s motorcycle action (3) 19 Air Traffic (2) 23 Older Strontium (2) 20 Calyx part, please (5) 24 Dispense with (3) 21 Screamer’s throat dangler (5) TALK 27 Writing of the highest order (4) 22 Where you are expected to ape Commodities, identities and the aura of the other Talk by anthropologist Dr Peter Moran on 29 Jam session, practice piece (5) inhabitants (4) the relationship between religious pilgrimage and tourism among Western travellers at 31 West African musical paradise (4) 24 Old Germanic character (4) Baudhanath. Monday, 9 April, 5pm. Royal Nepal Academy. For more info contact Dr Ram Dayal 32 French recipient (5) 25 Cerebral spark (4) 33 Flair and energy (4) 26 Dear doe (4) Of the seven correct entries, the Rakesh at 231791 or Marianna Kropf at [email protected]. 271018 24 Annus, horribilis perhaps (4) 28 Once the oldest profession, now a _? (3) lucky winner is Deepak Adhikari. DRAMA 30 Consider the plaything (3) “The Kite” Indonesian play by the children theatre club, Aakhyan on the occasion of World To send in your entries, please fill in the details below and fax to 977-1-521013, or email to Theatre Day. Sunday, 1 April, 3pm. Nepal children organisation, Naxal. Free entry. [email protected]. Entries can be dropped off at Himalmedia Pvt Ltd, Patan Dhoka, Lalitpur. EVENTS Name...... Freinds of the Bagmati River meeting to discuss bringing life back into the waters of the Ph...... email...... Valley. Dwarika’s Hotel. Wednesday, 4 April, 43pm. 479488s Poetry Reading Young poets read original works in Nepali and English. Open house. Every Thursday 4pm. Jatra, Saat Ghumti. Thamel. 433859 NEPALI WEATHER by NGAMINDRA DAHAL

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on FM 102.4 DSES- 28-03-2001 0400 GMT Mon-Fri 0615-0645 BBC World Today Sat 0615-0645 BBC Science in Action Sun 0615-0645 BBC Agenda There was a respite from the winter drought prevailing over the lower Himalayas and plains in the past few months Daily 2045-2115 BBC g]kfnL ;]jf]]] last week, with several rounds of light rainfall mostly in the central and western part of Nepal over the month of March. This means the hot weather will stay away for a couple of weeks. The satellite picture shows a long series of clouds Daily 2245-2300 BBC g]kfnL ;]jf]]] stretching from across the equatorial line travelling over Mediterranean and Arabian Seas before they finally strike to the southern Himalaya. This active westerly system appears to be bringing new rain-bearing clouds to the Himalaya and the Gangetic plain. A low-pressure belt developing over eastern part of the plain may draw this westerly influence toward eastern Himalaya also. The new clouds will bring several rounds of rain in isolated forms to Radio Sagarmatha the hills and the plains this week., keeping the mercury down for a little while longer. P.O. Box 6958, Bakhundole, Lalitpur, Nepal KATHMANDU Tel: ++977-1-545680, 545681 Fax: ++ 977-1- 530227 Fri Sat Sun Mon Tue E-mail: [email protected] www.radiosagarmatha.org 27-08 27-09 28-09 29-09 28-10 CULTURE 30 MARCH - 5 APRIL 2001 NEPALI TIMES 111777 SAVING FAITH by DESMOND DOIG A divine sleep in stone Did such perfection, daring to transcend the

bounds of mortality, arouse divine rebuke?

○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ t happened some fourteen Budhanilkantha, which suggests Shiva. Legend also has an old Brahmin centuries ago. Dislodged by a There are other legends. When an ascetic, Nil Kantha, responsible for ipowerful earthquake, a part of the earthquake ravaged the mountain, the having the image installed. But why, mountain called Shivpuri came image had only recently been one wonders, did he give his Shivaite crashing down; a vast and terrifying consecrated. In fact the anonymous name to an image of Vishnu? tumble of rock and earth that bore Lichchhavi master who carved it from The confusion still exists. As I down upon the settlement below, a single enormous rock had hardly laid stood sketching beside the pond, my completely burying it. Little could aside his tools when disaster came. pad resting on the surrounding wall, survive. Temples and houses were Were the gods displeased? Did such small groups of Nepali and Indian made of perishable mud and wood. perfection, daring to transcend the visitors piled up beside me and almost Even memory was destroyed. The bounds of mortality, arouse divine the first question asked on seeing the rains fell during their season and grass rebuke? Later, and even legend great image was “What is it? Vishnu and forests grew. In time, men hesitates to say how long afterwards, or Shiva?” Adding to their uncertainty returned to clear the land unaware of the buried god appeared to King were a number of Tibetan lamas who the history below their feet. A farmer Dharmagat Dev in a dream so vivid sat chanting under nearby trees. They snarled his crude plough against a that he was able to direct a search made colourful offerings of ceremonial buried rock and when he chipped at party to the spot where it lay. But the silk scarves and marigold chains, it, it bled. In troubled awe, he cleared image was hardly uncovered when the bouquets of incense sticks, fruit and the soil away to uncover first the mountain fell again and the reclining torma (small pyramids of dough carved head of a stone colossus, then a Vishnu was once more buried. When stamped with impressions of Buddhist reclining body and then a bed of it was being excavated for the second deities), and coins. A Nepali guide coiled serpents on which it rested. time, a workman accidentally chipped explained to a family of Bengalis that that such a wondrous creation was Vermilion stains the water of the palace in Kathmandu. Water began rising from the earth as the divine nose and it bled. But one the great image had not been made by indeed divine. If they looked carefully now stagnant pond. Devotees Both lack the brilliance of the he dug deeper, until it seemed the remembers that almost every early man but by the gods themselves and at the supple chest, they could easily mount a ramp to touch their Lichchhavi original and the magic of huge image floated on the surface of a sculpture in the Kathmandu valley he went on to describe how it had imagine that the image breathed. I foreheads to the massive feet, its surroundings: the ancient rest pond. People heard and crowded to suffers a broken nose, a relic of the risen from the earth. was reminded that once, many years collecting some fragment of houses and the hamlet of worship this strange god that had risen short-lived but savage assault by the In the flurry of conversation that ago when carved stone fountains, now offerings made by others before Buddhanilkantha and the fields strewn from the ground. It was recognised as forces of Shams-ud-din Ilyas of Bengal followed, a scholarly-looking dry, used to pour clear mountain them. In turn, they offer flowers with black boulders like enormous Vishnu, but confusingly it was named in the early fourteenth century. gentleman pointed out to one and all water into the pond, the ripples and rice and coins that others will cannon balls that fell from the flowing across the surface heightened collect. Pujaris bathe and anoint mountain called Shivpuri. From one the illusion of breathing and I had the great face. More vermilion. like these was the great Vishnu watched fascinated not only as the Dramatic touches of saffron. There Narayan carved. From another, a great chest rose and fell, but as the are always pigeons to accept the Buddha image that stands unattended vermilioned mouth smiled and the rice that is offered. and hardly known in a field not far handsome face changed its Yet another legend attaches to away. What other treasures lie buried expressions. Even now, a young man Buddhanilkantha. King Pratap Malla, beneath the great swell of earth that standing beside me remarked, “See, who ruled in the seventeenth century, was once a landslide, we may only Vishnu smiles; he is happy today.” dreamed that if he or any of his guess at. Nepal’s leading public school And later, a tousled sadhu told me in a descendants gazed upon the face of and a rapidly growing suburb of burst of wrinkled laughter that the the reclining Vishnu, they would die. Kathmandu reach across it. Perhaps god who was peacefully sleeping was So no ruling monarch may visit this someone digging a modern about to wake. His eyes were moving. famed place of pilgrimage, but to foundation will strike rock, and the There are always flowers banked allow them some idea of what they are rock will bleed.  above the crown of the image, and forbidden to see, two similar but vermilion on its forehead, about its much smaller images were made and (Excerpted with permission from eyes and mouth and outlining the installed in the water garden at Balaju In the Kingdom of the Gods, Harper Collins, 1994.) MIN BAJRACHARYA clothes and jewellery it wears. and in the grounds of the old Malla

ESSAY by PETER J KARTHAK Romancing from a hillbilly, love nce upon a time, 44 years ago, I was in painted lips, her hair down her red cheeks. She recited her poems and then But Banira Giri was the first poet who brought the true sounds of love with Banira Giri, for three went away again, leaving us heartbroken. The Bhanu Jayanti of 1959 found Nepali verse libre to my ears. Another point of note is that Banira has oagonising years. It was love at first sight us in ninth grade. Banira came, wrapped in a shiny blue sari with a white been writing poems—apart from writing in other genres, too—since on the wet Chowrasta maidan in Darjeeling. blouse, painted lips and a fashionable hair-do. She recited her poems and the 1950s. The finest cuts of the two gems—her verse libre and long I was 14 and in grade seven in 1957. I was went away, leaving us terribly forlorn. years of poetry—have found place in a recently translated

KUMAR ALE one of the youngest students of Turnbull High 1960. We had graduated from school and had gone to anthology, From The Lake, Love. School. We’d just been promoted from our half-pants kattu juvenility to college. There were other beautiful Baniras there to What I find unique is the participation of many the status of full khaki trousers. The fateful occasion was Bhanu Jayanti, take care of. But that was not the end of the original nationalities in the translation of Banira’s various poems the annual grand celebrations dedicated to the Nepali Chaucer, Baje, Banira Giri. Her visage and memories lingered with originally written in Nepali over the years. There is Wayne which took place every year sometime in the rainy month of June. me. Whenever I drove by Kurseong, I thought of her. Amtzis, a long-time American resident in Nepal who has Our venerable teachers, Indra Bahadur Rai and Ishwar Ballabh, in Whenever I was in Kurseong with my musical translated and edited the anthology. Other toilers are their many avatars as teachers, leaders and writers, chaperoned us and ensemble, I looked for Banira in the audience. But Michael Hutt and Ann Hunkins. Then there is Manjushree choreographed our assemblage at the spacious Chowrasta ground to she was nowhere. This was such a one-sided quest, an Thapa, an important Nepali writer, translator and critic. enjoy the spectacle and participate in the celebrations. The other unrequited romance where all I got was a rain-cheque. Many of Banira Giri’s poems, translated and included Nepali-curriculum schools of Darjeeling also joined in, their long My love had disappeared. in From The Lake, Love, have had also received and disciplined queues just like ours. It was only last year that I first saw Banira Giri face to international recognition and appreciation. India’s The programme began with choruses, solo songs and speeches face. We have met only four times so far, and have talked Dinman, Pratibha India, Debonair, Indian Express, steeped in Bhanu lore. Then a young and excruciatingly beautiful on the telephone five times. So much for romance! Telegraph, and Kavita Asia, Japan’s Shinchu, France’s La young woman climbed suavely up to the stone podium and stood by But before the 40-year hiatus I thought about some Mer, Pakistan’s Dawn, Alam-E-Niswan, Akhbare Khawatin, the statue of Adi Kavi Bhanu Bhakta Acharya, watched over by things: How come Darjeeling’s female “artistes” were all so and Himalayan Voices of California and South Asian another statue, a full-figure image of Dhir Shumsher Jung Bahadur intelligent and beautiful in those days? I didn’t care then, Literature of New York, USA have all published Banira’s Rana. nor knew, about Banira’s poetry, her feelings and emotions, poems. This poetess was Banira Giri. Word spread through us infatuated lot styles and stylistics, nuances, images and verisimilitudes. I Reason enough for all of us to take interest in the collection of that she was from Kurseong, that little town between the plains of Siliguri just wondered: How can such brains, wisdom, beauty and guts come poems, From The Lake, Love. As for me, I have given up the ghost of and the high hills of Darjeeling. That Kurseong possessed many together in the same person? romancing Banira Giri, and turned my attention to reading her Nepali beautiful women was well known to us. But a diva in real flesh and blood There were many brilliant beauties in the Darjeeling of those days. Dev poems translated painstakingly and with such dedication by an from there was standing in front of us that day. Clad in a red sari, with Kumari Thapa wrote enticingly and was beautiful. Lakki Devi Sundas, was international crew interested in Nepali poetry as espoused and painted lips and impeccably styled hair, Banira stole our hearts that day another ravishing writer. Lila Ghising was a mesmerising and stunning developed by Banira Giri for nearly five decades.  and drove us crazy. dancer. Shanti Thatal was a captivating bombshell who drove everyone Came 1958, eighth grade and another Bhanu Jayanti. Off we went crazy with her artistic and technical singing. Lhamu Lama, another From the lake, love by Banira Giri. 2000. Him Shikhar Publications, to Chowrasta again. Banira was there again, this time in a pink sari, with heartbreaker sang wonderfully. The list is rather long. Kathmandu. 132 pages. Rs 300 CULTURE 30 MARCH - 5 APRIL 2001 NEPALI TIMES 191919 PHOTOGRAPHY REVIEW by WAYNE AMTZIS Persistent Seeing hotography shows us that present and what daily life and pthe seen and how one sees custom present to him. A trace of are inextricably linked. beauty qualifies many of his photos. Where vision and composition In Picking Tea in Ilam, a woman bring a distant place or another bends to fill her basket with leaves way of life into view, meaning of green tea. Linked by labour in a resides with the object seen. Kioji line winding through fields of green, Masuo from Japan and other women bend to fill their Normantus Paulius from Hungary baskets. Each in their own place, speak dialects of the same the nearby hills emerging through language—that of someone from mist. In A Maithili Woman, far drawing close to his subject. Janakpur, a sitting torso is all we The distance crossed in their see. The woman’s tattooed hands, encounter is calibrated by the firm and sure, sketch on rice paper persistence of their endeavor. figures echoing the walls of her Kioji Masuo, photographically house. Her sari is as rich as the engaged with Nepal for many reds she uses. When a man nears, years, draws close with the widest we are told, she covers her head. of angles, allowing a distance in Here she is not seen hiding, but depth, while Paulius Normantus, revealing, through her art, how she an intrepid celebrant of works and lives. PAULIUS NORMANTUS KIOJI MASUO

Kioji Masuo,Japan Paulius Normantus, Hungary Himalayan cultures, keeps his Paulius Normantus hews his distance, establishing a layered vision with rock and air. Poet of Kioji Masuo from Japan and Normantus Paulius from Hungary speak perspective that speaks with the light, opponent of confinement, dialects of the same language—that of someone from far drawing close widest of possible contours. he sounds space for its limits and Kioji Masuo is a lucky recognizes the human in its place. to his subject. The former comes close to Nepal with the widest of photographer. Along the lanes and In Mustang, a breath away from

byways of Nepal, as unaffected as a Tibet, 4,500 meters up, with angles. The latter keeps his distance, establishing a layered perspective. ○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○

neighbour who might drop in, sheer rock cliffs where no path ○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ unannounced, he accentuates the leads, a simple 10th century monastery where meditators the sky—the manmade appears, worship, red cape warming his Masuo and Paulius Normantus dwell in summer. In these shaped as the earth has been back, pauses on the way to his currently on display at Siddhartha HAPPENINGS pinnacled heights, hand-shaped shaped by the elements, a stupa, a room. We cannot see his face, but Art Gallery, the Mulchowk Galary stone holds our eye. gompa, clearly human, clearly a his presence is felt. In another in the courtyard of Baber Mahal Unapproachable place of part of the land. photo a monk’s hands, rosary and Revisted is showcasing a selection worship, where only seeing can In western Tibet, near Kailash, robe are all we see. Surrounded of photos titled Great Moments of take us. Here, where distance soft hills, low mud houses, two by scenes of stark contrast and World Championship in Athletics.  reduces to abstraction or figures, small, yet undiminished, unaccountable vastness, there is silence—peaks, shadow- talk to each other in passing. In no thing more gentle than these Festival of Photography until 2April modulated formations, wind- Kumbu, in northeast Tibet, an old folded, self-contained hands. at Siddhartha Art Gallery, Baber eroded lands and the vastness of lama, weary from his day of In addition to the work of Kioji Mahal Revisited. SALIL SUBEDI HOME FOR THE OLD: Dr BN Rana, a Nepali-German doctor, introduces Prime Minister Koirala to foreign delegates at the inaugural of the Senior Citizens’ Home in Godavari.

Sharp SALIL SUBEDI STOPPED BY COPS: Riot police block the anti-Girija opposition rally on its way to Singha Darbar. SALIL SUBEDI JUNOON OVER JUNOON: An ecstatic section of the audience at the concert by Pakistani pop group Junoon. 202020 30 MARCH - 5 APRIL 2001 NEPALI TIMES There is a small problem with using hidden NEPALI SOCIETY Under My Hat cameras to expose corruption in Nepal: our by Kunda Dixit kleptocrats love to be on camera. Half the fun is gone if you can quite openly film them going here have been calls from all and sundry that the about their dark and nefarious deeds. (“Hey, Flower child ALL PHOTOS: SALIL SUBEDI Nepali media should also create a big hungama by quick, look! Call everyone, I’m on TV tusing hidden cameras to expose shady deals involving accepting wads of notes from that South African very morning in a cosy brick the import by our armed forces of semi-automatic horse arms dealer.”) When even honest officials house across the Sanepa esection of the Ring Road, poo excavators to prevent the four-hoofed members of our pretend they are corrupt because over 3,000 plants glory in the gallant cavalry from fouling the streets of the capital during they want to be seen as team morning light at the loving wake- the annual Ghode Jatra parade. However, we think this players, then you have a real up call of their guardian Rita would not only be against national interest, but would also problem. More drastic measures Sharma. She chats and meditates seriously undermine the morale of our military which is are required, and we have been with them, in this flower-powered currently conducting sensitive manoeuvres using live asked to come up with some environment she shares with her hepatitis vaccines on guinea pigs. Besides, we in the Nepali suggestions: two daughters and husband. “I call them Maharani,” she media are concerned about the ethics of entrapment, and • The Mao Baddies’ deterrent says, pointing to the 1,500 or so we are not sure if similarly tempted we would not take method. Make the bad guys pay a 100 African Violets (Saintpaulia), the the cash and run. If someone in a dimly-lit room tried percent duty on all kickbacks, have their hair crowning glory of her collection of to get us to buy night-vision equipment to help us and eyebrows shaved, and require them to wear flowering and non-flowering plants. day is a busy nurturing day. After I navigate home after work through pitch dark a necklace of shoes to work. They fill every conceivable space chat with the plants, I clean them, streets maybe we would not reluctantly refrain • Vaccination. When graft enters a pandemic in her small garden, and adorn move them around, make sure they from saying no. stage there is no other way but for the Ministry of walls, cupboards, staircase, aren’t suffocating, and have windowpanes, and terrace in her enough food and so on,” says Rita, But such is the clamour from the public Communicable Disease and Broadcasting to vaccinate home. “They are fragile and who has been inspired by her for exposes, that we are forced to fall civil society and not-so-civil society against the sensitive to abrupt changes in travels within and outside Nepal. back on our favourite prey and use coruptococcus bacteria on previously-announced National weather. They have to be handled Some of her charges require a concealed candid cameras to probe delicately, only then will they little more focused attention than Royal Nepal Allegedly Corrupt (RNAC) bloom,” she says of her floral others. Her African violets are in a to uncover yet another boring scandal queens from the Usambara small greenhouse on the terrace, The fhit mountains in Tanzania. where she first lets them grow in involving the quality and quantity of You can lose yourself for an small ice-cream, peanut and vegetarian pakoras served on the entire day at the Sharma sausage containers, and then Delhi sector. The tapes reveal moves them to larger pots. “I and their work can be seen in dramatic details of why the hits the san make use of everything possible. many hotels and resorts in airline is bankrupt: some senior fly-by- Immunisation Days. Vaccinated individuals will stop It’s not just about what you use, Kathmandu and Pokhara. night officials of the Ministry of showing symptoms like greasy palms, and be resistant it’s the care and time you “I have recently started selling Tourism, Industrialism and Democratic to greed and malfeasance. Booster shots are required devote,” she says. And no, she flowers, especially to housewives. Socialism have been caught by our every year. does not have a gardener. Let them also share the passion Rita Sharma was a cabin that I share with plants. It might hidden camera sneaking away souvenirs like • Genetic Engineering. This method isolates the gene for attendant with Royal Nepal for five inspire them to be entrepreneurs,” airline blankets, dessert spoons and a Rolls Royce RB- kleptomania and replaces it with one for generosity and years. She quit 12 years ago to be she says. Rita’s had no profes- 211 engine. This is an outrage: why didn’t they take both sacrifice taken from an adult sea horse. With advances in house, a “housewife entrepreneur”. Apart sional training in horticulture or engines? How did they know the other one wasn’t worth bioengineering, therefore, the day is not far when honesty communing with plants, looking at from nurturing plants, she also design. “It is an addiction. I can’t anything? It seems our national flag carrier has for a long and integrity in public officials can be successfully cloned. the bees, imagining wonderful designs intricate patchwork think of spending the rest of my time not been carrying flags at all, it has been carrying a lot We must carry this out before the fhit hits the san during romances between the plants bedcovers. Two tailors from life not surrounded by plants,” of crew-members on long all expense paid holidays. next year’s Ghode Jatra.  under Rita’s gentle eye. “Every Thankot help her with production, she says. 

FAIR AND LOVELY