Australia to Indonesia

Notes from BLUE HEELER

These notes and opinions are based on our own experiences. Any feedback or suggestions are most welcome!

CONTENTS Sail Indonesia Rally 2012 ...... 2 Leaving Australia ...... 3 Arriving in Indonesia ...... 4 Boat Maintenance and Repairs ...... 5 Provisions ...... 5 Water ...... 6 Fuel/Gas ...... 7 Power ...... 7 Sailing ...... 8 Navigation ...... 8 Obstructions and Dangers ...... 8 Anchoring ...... 8 Communications ...... 9 Internet and Phone ...... 9 Sat Phone...... 9 People and Culture ...... 10 Religion ...... 10 Pets ...... 10 Appendix A: Blue Heeler's anchorages in Indonesia ...... 11 Appendix B: Example provisioning list ...... 13

Last updated: 28 December 2012

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SAIL INDONESIA RALLY 2012 Our decision to join the rally was based on: (a) first time sailing overseas; (b) opportunity to meet other yachties; (c) proximity to other yachts in case of disaster; (d) positive feedback from others in previous year rally; (e) cruising permit processing.

Now that we've completed the 2012 Sail Indonesia Rally, we can share the following comments.

PROS

 The most obvious benefit to us in joining the rally is the camaraderie within the fleet. Most of the boats were already en route up the Queensland coast by April/May so we'd established links with others along the way. We enjoy sailing with overseas yachties - to share information about Australia, and learn more about their sailing experiences in their own countries.  The rally can be a sociable few weeks, but for those that enjoy going on their own adventures now and again, it's easy to go at your own pace and stop at the places of your choice. I would suggest though keeping within radio contact of others in case of mechanical or medical troubles. There's no volunteer coast guards in Indonesia!

CONS

 The cost for the 2012 rally was A$500 plus a $25 donation to a scholarship fund at Kupang. The cost covered the Cruising Permit (CAIT) and rally events at a variety of locations between Kupang through to Bangska Island. I'm not convinced if it was value for money.  The CAIT arranged by the organisers fell short of the 90 days promised. The CAIT was only valid for 76 days so we had to leave Indonesia by 15th October; two weeks earlier than we would have liked. Be sure to check the dates on your CAIT.  Clearing into Kupang was relatively straightforward. The organisers had gathered all the officials to process all the yachts, however, the organisers could have improved the efficiency of the process by ensuring each boat was given a checklist of what they need in terms of paperwork, passport stamps, etc. For example, many of the yachts weren't handed back a crew list stamped by Immigration - this is apparently an important document when leaving the country (we had to scurry around to find an immigration guy to stamp ours. Also, my passport was not stamped correctly but I didn't know this until I'd reached Mataram some six weeks later!).  Limited understanding of sailing and yachtie requirements by organisers. For example, they'd arranged for all the yachts to head down to Bali (Denpasar), however the currents and lack of suitable anchorages in that area resulted in a pathetic 4-5 boats actually attending the event.  This year's rally promoted Morotai as the place to visit. Unfortunately Morotai is too far from the rest of Indonesia and we have heard maybe one yacht visited.  With 135 boats in the fleet, anchorages were often full. Mostly though we never had more than 15 boats in an anchorage, but the anchorages can be small and very deep - dropping from 4m to 200m to 2000m within a short distance from shore. One vessel's anchor dropped and snagged into 80m resulting in an expensive release of the rode and anchor.

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 Many of the events for the 2012 rally did not happen. We never really found out why but word had it there was no funding. However, a number of small villages took the situation into their own hands and arranged small affairs for a very small number of yachties. This poor organising and lack of communication was disappointing for those organising the dinners/events. It cast a poor light on any prospects for subsequent rallies. In some places, the locals went to a lot of trouble to put on lavish events, but the rally organisers had no idea of attendance numbers - they could have done this online, unfortunately they didn't.  The Rally organisers were appalling communicators. The event is web-based and communication is via email, however, at no time were any events (cancelled or otherwise) communicated via email to the fleet; the website was not up to date and had incorrect information. This caused a lot of 'Chinese-whispers' within the fleet, causing many to make their own arrangements. I was personally asked by the organiser to forward information on about events in Kumai- the day before the events took place! This would have been far more successful if the organisers had have sent the email to the fleet.

RECOMMENDATIONS

If we did this trip again we would try to organize the CAIT ourselves. Sail Indonesia charged $500 to join the rally and we felt there wasn't much value for us in this as the CAIT is about half that cost. Although organising your own CAIT requires a local agent, extra running around, time and resourcefulness.

To avoid busy anchorages, I would suggest keeping a few days ahead of the fleet, but you may run the risk of missing out of any rally events.

Make yourself known to the fleet - we've met very interesting people along the way and many yachts had troubles such as rope in the prop; engines failing; etc; so it's good to know who's out there in case of strife.

The rally events, although interesting, generally included a local dance show, a feed of local cuisine and for the local VIPs or Regent to show off their uniform and shake our hands. For some that's fine, but we enjoy just mingling with the locals in their villages and enjoy seeing them without all the pomp and ceremony. It certainly pays to learn a few phrases, welcomes and numbers in Bahasa Indonesia before you arrive.

Ultimately the onus is on the yachties to be resourceful, open minded and pay attention to detail with paperwork and officialdom.

LEAVING AUSTRALIA Most Australian and International yachties travel via the Queensland coast, across the Gulf of Carpentaria and onto Darwin for departure. It's important therefore to know what to expect in the final Australian destination before departure.

Darwin is a remote town, therefore sourcing items locally can prove time consuming, expensive and difficult to obtain. For example, we lost our auto-pilot on the way across the Gulf and had to buy a new one. The local chandlery could get one from Sydney within three weeks. We went online and bought one from West Marina in the USA and had it delivered within one week and A$400 cheaper! Other items such as hoses, shackles, and general items are more expensive in Darwin than in other places in Australia, as are services. pg. 3

Whitworths in Australia is a well known chandlery, but don't have an office in Darwin. However, I purchased a new Jabsco toilet pump which I couldn't source in Darwin. They shipped it to me overnight from their Sydney warehouse for about A$20. Boat Bits in Darwin has limited stock and seem to always need to ship things in.

We also perceived a lack of customer service in Darwin. The chandleries, boat yards and marinas didn't go out of their way to impress the yachties, although it was an ideal time to show their teeth! This sentiment is consistent with international yachties we've spoken too. Unfortunately most weren't too impressed with Darwin. Unfortunately for Aussie tourism, it's sometimes the only place in Australia they visit and leaves the wrong impression!

Fannie Bay is a great anchorage though due to the tides it’s a long dinghy ride and haul up the beach; can get a little blowy but the option is to stay at a marina. As we didn't stay in any marinas, we can't provide any feedback on them.

If you need to have work done on the hard stand, if you can be sure to get it done before you reach Darwin. Blue Heeler was on the hard at Darwin's ‘Spot On Marine yard’ which can only be entered and exited on the high tides. It's also a very expensive yard charging A$45 per day to be on the hard.

Duty free fuel is available from Bailey’s Fuels near Darwin wharf, and also from Cullen Bay fuel dock just outside the marina. You will require a tax exemption form which can be obtained at Customs in Darwin. The cost without tax was approx. A$0.95 per litre (Jul-2012).

You have the opportunity to claim back GST on any goods bought for the trip within 30 days of departure. However, this relates to GST on any purchases over A$300 at one store. We claimed the GST on our groceries and also chandlery items – be sure to arrange a running invoice at your supplier/chandlery as you can’t claim GST on multiple invoices.

We provisioned fully in Brisbane before heading around the top-end. That included filters for watermaker, spares for the engine, and other hard to get items. I would recommend all non-perishables and alcohol to be bought in Brisbane or Cairns before arriving in Darwin. See Provisioning section.

ARRIVING IN INDONESIA Be sure to read lots of blogs from the many yachties trips to Indonesia. We learnt so much valuable information from others' blogs. Most yachties are keen to share their information too. The Sail Indonesia organisers will provide you with a heap of information when you register at Darwin but it's a bit late to receive this information.

A couple of great blogs with heaps of useful information include:

 http://hackingfamily.com/ - recommend this site. Much useful information including tracks, waypoints, and heaps of other useful information for many countries including Indonesia.  http://www.lupari2.com/ - Tasmanian couple sailing through the region in 2011. Well worth a read.  http://www.bluesipp.blogspot.com.au/?m=1

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Bring an official boat stamp - they love it on the paperwork and you'll be expected to use it! We included boat name, official number, home port. A self-inking one impresses them although these are quite costly in Australia. Some yachties had basic stamps made up in Kupang for around A$5, but it was too late and they couldn't use it on the paperwork.

Business cards - another good thing to have to pass onto officialdom or just other yachties. We print our own cards se a small on-board printer to print them off as we need. That way we can update with local phone numbers as we travel around. Recommend adding your sat-phone number and preferred contact details. People may need to call you in an emergency.

BOAT MAINTENANCE AND REPAIRS If you must do work before leaving Australia, we recommend getting it done anywhere than Darwin. We worked on our boat at the Spot-On Marine yard in Darwin and were charged an expensive A$45 per day for the privilege. Granted we could spray, sand and do anything to the boat without any major restrictions on the type of work, but it was very expensive, and the anti-foul paint was hard to get too. We stayed for three weeks and the facilities are a little shabby. We anti-fouled the hull in Darwin - happy about that decision as the growth is accelerated in these tropical climates.

When we weren't at the boat yard, we anchored in Fannie Bay at the Darwin Sailing Club, where we could join as a member for A$10. The Club staff were helpful with our incoming post and deliveries. Darwin city is about 5kms away and a bus stop outside the sailing club costs $2 to ride the bus. The Club has trolleys available to haul dinghies back to the water's edge after the massive 8m tides leaves access to the water some distance away.

Although we haven't yet experienced the cost of labour in Malaysia or Thailand, we've heard it's cheaper than in Australia. After seeing first hand the quality of Thai work on another yacht , we are planning on having some work done - perhaps a new teak deck, hard dodger and bimini.

Bring plenty of spares, oils, consumables as these are not easily sought in Indonesia. For part deliveries in Malaysia, Langkawi is a duty free island, whereas the Malaysia peninsular may incur excessive import costs for overseas deliveries. We received items from the UK and they took less than a week to get delivered to Rebak Marina, Langkawi. International express post from Australia was also received by us within four working days although it cost about A$40. We didn’t experience any deliveries within Indonesia and probably the only place for reliable deliveries would be Bali Marina.

Crossing the Gulf of Carpentaria with washing-machine like seas caused our auto-pilot to die a slow death. The crossing from Darwin to Kupang in Indonesia was equally turbulent, so we used our wind pilot most of that trip to take the pressure of our new auto-pilot. It went like a dream! Be sure to have a backup plan in the event your auto-pilot dies.

PROVISIONS As mentioned earlier, we provisioned quite extensively in Brisbane before moving around the top end. Two reasons: (1) it's always easier to stock the boat while at a marina; and (2) Darwin can be expensive and doesn't stock as wide a selection as Brisbane. Of course Cairns is an alternative, however, we stayed in the anchorage which was difficult for large amounts of shopping. pg. 5

Attached is the list we used when preparing to go. Due to the unknown nature of product availability in Indonesia at the time, we probably over-catered.

Eggs, fish, fruit and vegetables are easily sought along the coast at local markets. Beef, not so easy to get, but fresh chicken is, although perhaps not to the usual hygiene standards found in Australia. General items such as bleach, deodorant, toothpaste, and peanut butter can be found in larger towns such as Kalabahi or Labuan Bajo.

Unless there's a particular type of food you enjoy, I would recommend not bringing months worth of food. Once you get to Malaysia you can get pretty much get anything, except perhaps bacon and those large 1kg blocks of tasty cheese from Australia.

PHARMACEUTICALS

Our first aid kit has the usual items in it (see list attached). It's worthwhile keeping a list of prescription drugs on board in case you're asked to produce one, although we were never asked. Get your prescriptions filled before you go - enough for 3-6 months.

When we had our vaccinations the doctor in Darwin suggested that we probably wouldn't be exposed to malaria so only gave us a remedial dose, should we see any symptoms. Although we didn't see many mosquitoes on the journey due to the dry season, it pays to carry repellant and mosquito coils from Australia and wear it when going ashore.

We experienced minor stomach complaints, diarrhea, insect bites, infections, ear infection during our trip. To avoid these minor ailments, I recommend carrying antibiotics, antihistamine, insect repellant containing at least 40% DEET.

ALCOHOL

For people that like a drop of Chateau Cardboard, I'd recommend stocking up in Brisbane as in Cairns boxed wine is not sold before 4pm, and in Darwin (as as July 2012) they do not sell 4 & 5 litre casks. We didn't know this and unfortunately could only buy 2L casks for a ridiculously expensive price.

Beer in Indonesia is the very refreshing Bintang beer. A slab of 24 cans is around IDR225,000 to IDR300,000 (about A$25/A$30). Wine in Indonesia wasn't available that I could sniff out, and in some restaurants, a very cheap Aussie wine ($5) could fetch $30 per bottle. Wine/alcohol can be bought in Malaysia, although slightly more expensive than in Australia. Wait till you get to Langkawi to stock up – it is super cheap!

WATER If your budget can squeeze in a watermaker, we recommend you get one. Ours is old but still produces about 45L per hour, which is fine for us to run one hour every couple of days. We made sure we ran the watermaker before we entered harbours, in case the water quality was poor (eg: Kumai, Borneo), and flushed the system with tank water every 3-5 days to keep the water fresh, rather than pickling the system.

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Some boats on the rally didn't have watermakers and made-do with organising 20 litre water drops from local villages. The cost was minimal (around A$1-A$2 for 20 litres) but it proved to be problematic for some people. The only marina we accessed in Indonesia was at Medana Bay. I believe that some yachties did drink the water, but generally it's advised to boil it first.

It's important to keep any chlorine out of your watermaker so using tap water it not advised is your tanks. I bought filters from Ebay for the watermaker - do your research as you shouldn't have to pay more than A$15-A$20 for standard 10" filters. Note that once you arrive in Malaysia, the same 10" filters can be purchased for around A$3-A$6 each from supermarkets.

Catching rainwater is not a reliable option as we had no rain until 10 weeks after leaving Darwin.

FUEL/GAS The average cost of diesel in Indonesia (2012) was IDR6500 (that's about A$0.65 per litre). In most places, young men would appear in their boats offering help with fuel and water so you can barter with them too for a bit of fun.

We carry five 20L jerry cans for diesel, plus around 50 litres of unleaded for the outboard and generator. We have tank storage of 400L. Generally the locals would take the jerries away, fill them up and return them. You must filter the fuel before it goes into your tanks. Only in one place did we have really dirty fuel (had leaves in it!) but generally it was okay - not good but okay. Much better in Malaysia.

Many yachties have a Baja filter which filters water away from the fuel. Generally though the fuel was okay and we managed with a funnel, a pair of stockings and pure vigilance. In saying that though, we ended up buying a Mr Funnel filter (via Amazon in the USA or in some 4-wheel drive stores in Australia) and had it couriered into Malaysia for the next part of our voyage. We bought the bigger one with double filter elements.

It's probably worthwhile filling up your diesel in Indonesia before motoring across to Malaysia. Nongsa Point at the top of Batam Island before you head across the Singapore Strait is more expensive for fuel than lower down Indonesia.

So far the diesel in Malaysia is as clean as Australia and we paid RM$2.70 per litre (around A$0.90 - October 2012).

We carry two galvanised 9kg gas bottles each one will generally last two months. As we didn’t do as much cooking (local food is cheap to buy), one bottle actually lasted the entire 12 weeks. Be sure to bring enough to last the duration of your time in Indonesia as it may be problematic to fill the bottles due to their different gas connections. We easily managed to fill up a bottle upon arrival in Malaysia. It’s now five months and we’re still on our second gas bottle.

POWER We have a second alternator (Balmar USA - 200 amps) mounted on the engine. There was literally no wind the whole trip so the engine via the two alternators provided all our power requirements.

We also have a 2kw Yamaha petrol generator as a secondary backup. Our solar panels are very old, only small and never put out more than 4-5 amps in total. We want to upgrade these with some bigger new ones possibly in Langkawi.

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The wind generator helped a little but nothing to get excited about. We have 630 amp hours of battery capacity (3 x 210 amp hour lifeline AGM batteries for house circuit and another single small marine battery for starting). We bought these new in Brisbane in March 2012 and bought a new starter battery in Penang. If you think your house batteries may be on the way out, consider purchasing before you leave Australia.

SAILING

NAVIGATION All charts for Indonesia are incorrect - some worse than others. The latest wide area CMAP card for SE Asia was the best one we used but could be inaccurate a lot of the time especially in eastern Indonesia. Zoom right in to see the detail, because a lot of the time the large scale charts are the ones that have been updated and are more accurate.

We bought the CMAP card over the internet from Bellingham Charts in the USA for our Standard Horizon chartplotter. It was much cheaper than buying from Australia, even considering the $100 courier cost.

The accuracy of free CMAP charts used on Maxsea/OpenCPN were way out as was newest Navionics charts. OpenCPN was a great help when using Google Earth satellite photos converted to chart files as you can see your boat on the photo chart like a normal chart. If the Google Earth image is clear and good resolution, it was easy to visually identify reef or shallow areas with accuracy.

We generally used the images for dodgy anchorage areas. I suggest downloading the Google Earth plugin for OpenCPN and learn how to make your own chart files for this purpose. To make it easier for you, we can share our Google Earth KAP files for anchorages throughout Indonesia, Malaysia and Thailand. These will be progressively added to. Contact us directly via email if you would like access to these.

OBSTRUCTIONS AND DANGERS Nets, fishing boats, platforms and traps are everywhere and often not lit or poorly lit. Some boats in the rally had fishing ropes tangled around their props - this could be disastrous depending on the situation.

The small boats of the fishermen can be lit with red/blue/white flashing LED lights. These can be difficult to see, particularly if their batteries are running out. A few yachts (including us) also bought coloured flashing LED lights to complement our anchor light, and to be certain we could be seen at anchor. These are around A$3 and can be found throughout Indonesia and Malaysia, usually at fishing supply stores.

Only travel at night when absolutely necessary and both AIS (transponder) and radar are great to have particularly in the shipping lanes which are extremely busy.

ANCHORING In Indonesia the anchorages are generally small, steep and deep (usually 20-25m). It wasn't unusual to have depths from 5m, to 100m, to 2000m just a short distance offshore.

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We carry 100m of 8mm chain, but others managed with 60m of 10mm chain. Alternatively use a second anchor off the stern to the beach side and run your main anchor up slope so you don't have to worry about swinging out into the deep and losing scope with the shorter chain.

Many people, including us, had troubles with their windlass due to the weight of dragging so much chain up. Make sure yours is working well and you have the necessary spare parts.

Many of the anchorages we anchored in were found in the book '101 Anchorages'. At the end of this document is a list of our anchorage coordinates and distances between.

COMMUNICATIONS

INTERNET AND PHONE In Kupang we bought cheap prepaid sim cards for our mobile phone and iPads. The Sail Indonesia Rally organizers arranged for Telkomsel to provide free sim cards to all the participants, however, you will need to top-up credit immediately. WIFI 3G modems are available and we recommend using standard SIM cards over trimmed SIM cards for use in iPads. We found it difficult to top-up credit for trimmed mini SIMs for iPads as the SIM must be put into a phone to top-up credit. It could be done, but wasn’t easy.

Before I left Australia I had my phone unlocked (it was free cause my phone was old, but Telstra will charge for new phones). Phones here are cheap to buy anyway. With the mini-sims for iPads, the locals use a trimmer to reduce a standard sim to a mini-sim. You pay for a month generally and top up the credit every time you run out at small shops along the way. Telcomsel is the best provider for phone and Internet. I was surprised as to the availability of internet/phone access and learnt there are over 44,000 towers around Indonesia. But the data was slow most of the time.

Using the code 01017 when phone making International calls from Indonesia makes the call very cheap (the code in Malaysia is 13200). Eg: 01017-61-3-xxxxxxx to call Australia.

Maxis and Celcom are supposedly the best providers in Malaysia and its pretty much the same system with top up credit etc. However, I had nothing but problems with Maxis for my iPad internet (in particular Maxis has a dreadful record of taking money and not providing the service), whereas Celcom has proved to be far more reliable in our WIFI 3G modem.

SAT PHONE We carry a Iridium 9555 sat phone and in July 2012 purchased a 12 month 500 minute prepaid sim- card from Global Marine Net (GMN) in the USA for around $600. Even with the additional $100 courier fee just to send me a $10 sim-card, it was still cheaper than purchasing from Australia. Although we haven't used it, we know of one yacht that was drifting and had to call for help on their sat phone.

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PEOPLE AND CULTURE Indonesia is dirty with rubbish everywhere and the east of Indonesia is particularly poor.

But...the people are warm and welcoming, even with the threat of volcanoes, tsunamis, and other environmental challenges. The kids are absolutely gorgeous and don't mind latching onto your hand to lead you through markets and to practice their English! They are great to practice your Indonesian with too.

I would recommend buying a phrase book and put a little effort into learning Bahasa Indonesia. The locals really appreciate travellers that can speak a little language, as many of the places we visited along the coast are not often places that 'normal' tourists go to.

Understanding the language also helps with any difficulties or miscommunications. Even though we had basic language skills, they were delighted we even bothered to learn and would generally be more helpful with us. And don't forget to SMILE! Indonesians love to smile and to reciprocate is considered most welcome.

The sea water was generally pretty good - obviously in town areas such as Labuan Bajo, the sea water was a little dirty, but in places like Komodo, the water was the clearest I've ever seen - anywhere. Indonesia's struggling tourism industry can only improve if they improve their practices. Unlike Australia's strict eco-regulations, Indonesia doesn't quite understand the concept of eco-friendly. With rubbish, pollution and lack of respect in many places for coral and dive sites, their tourism industry may be over before it begins. It pays to be mindful of this and ensure we don't contribute to the problem by ensuring our rubbish is managed properly.

RELIGION Indonesia has one of the largest Muslim population in the world. However, the eastern end of Indonesia (Alor, Flores, etc) also has the largest Christian population within Indonesia. Everywhere we anchored within earshot of a village you could hear the call to prayer five times a day broadcasting loudly through the PA systems from every Mosque. There is a noticeable harmony between the religions - Islam, Christianity, Hindu, Buddhism - and it pays to respect each religion equally.

PETS A couple of yachts took cats aboard as they travelled through Indonesia to Malaysia. Although we didn't have any pets aboard, our understanding is that the officials weren't overly concerned about animals entering the country.

You also have to consider that the weather here is hot all the time and may cause your pet to overheat, and decks can get very hot. Having a pet aboard may mean that you cannot leave your boat for any length of time. We haven’t seen any pampered pets in Indonesia or Malaysia. Mostly the cats are straggly and mangy, and the dogs are usually skinny scavengers covered with sores. Our understanding is that rabies is common in Indonesia and we haven’t seen any veterinarians. Your pet may pick up diseases if not properly looked after.

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APPENDIX A: BLUE HEELER'S ANCHORAGES IN INDONESIA The table below lists the anchorages during our stay in Indonesia. Most of the anchorages can be found in the book '101 Anchorages'.

Departure Left Arrived at LAT/LONG Distance Comments (nm)

28-Jul-12 Fannie Bay, Darwin Kupang, Indonesia 10° 09.720' S 470 Reasonable holding; plenty of room for up 123° 34.150' E to 100 boats.

05-Aug-12 Kupang, Indonesia Tanjong Gumuk, 09° 31.252' S 45 Exposed roadstead - not recommended as Timor 123° 47.343' E an anchorage.

06-Aug-12 Tanjong Gumuk, Tanjong Tobo, 09° 20.573' S 20 Open to west through to east, but good Timor Timor 124° 01.015' E holding.

07-Aug-12 Tanjong Tobo, Kalabahi, Alor 08° 13.317' S 75 About 40 boats; reasonable holding, but Timor 124° 34.507' E the wind can blow. Anchor in 5-10 metres.

10-Aug-12 Kalabahi, Alor Balurin Village, 08° 14.362' S 57 Difficult entrance thru reef – lots of coral Alor 123° 42.476' E bommies; anchorage for up to 6 yachts

11-Aug-12 Balurin Village, Alor Tanjong Siru 08° 14.715' S 9 Merangwutun 123° 36.210' E

12-Aug-12 Tanjong Siru Adunara Island 08° 14.670' S 16 Excellent place to stay for a few days. Up Merangwutun (Mokko) 123° 19.538' E to 8 boats, 25m depth good holding. Good swimming and snorkelling.

17-Aug-12 Adunara Island Telok Hading, 08° 13.603' S 45 Shit anchorage. Exposed to offshore winds (Mokko) Flores 122° 45.914' E from south. Only good for 3-4 boats.

18-Aug-12 Telok Hading, Pulau Besar 08° 26.750' S 24 Nice easy anchorage near village. 3-4 Flores 122° 24.485' E boats good holding.

20-Aug-12 Pulau Besar Wodong, Flores 08° 36.393' S 14 Lovely spot, bit exposed to North, close to 122° 28.476' E Dive Resort and lovely restaurant

22-Aug-12 Wodong, Flores Batu Boga East, 08° 28.292' S 35 Quiet but tricky to get into without Google Flores 121° 57.426' E Earth images.

23-Aug-12 Batu Boga East, Mausambi, Flores 08° 30.186' S 13 Lovely place, locals very friendly. Anchor Flores 121° 47.218' E behind natural breakwater.

26-Aug-12 Mausambi, Flores Island near Riung, 08° 23.360' S 47 Great place for a few days swimming – Flores 121° 03.403' E approx. 1nm to Riung village.

29-Aug-12 Island near Riung, Linggeh, Flores 08° 17.546' S 33 Too many kids!!! Otherwise okay Flores 120° 35.549' E anchorage.

30-Aug-12 Linggeh, Flores Gili Boda Is, 08° 22.120' S 37 Nice anchorage; good swimming Flores 120° 00.891' E

02-Sep-12 Gili Boda Is, Flores Labuan Bajo, 08° 30.915' S 18 Plenty of room south of town. Anchor mud Flores 119° 52.159' E 4/5 metres

02-Sep-12 Labuan Bajo, Flores Pulau Rinca 08° 39.160' S 18 Room for 4-5 boats. 20m anchorage (Komodos) 119° 42.800' E

pg. 11

Indonesian Anchorages - continued

Departure Left Arrive at LAT/LONG Distance Comments (nm)

05-Sep-12 Pulau Rinca Sabajor Besar 08° 30.237' S 10 Mooring available. (Komodos) 119° 42.696' E

06-Sep-12 Sabajor Besar North Komodo 08° 29.624' S 10 Two moorings - poor snorkelling. 119° 33.070' E

07-Sep-12 North Komodo Gili Lawa Laut, 08° 29.815' S 5 No anchoring allowed - 2 moorings. Komodo 119° 34.026' E Excellent diving/snorkelling clear water

08-Sep-12 Gili Lawa Laut, Telok Batu Monco, 08° 26.753' S 8 Plenty of room, 15m depth. Open to NW. Komodo Komodo 119° 27.113' E Good dive NE corner

09-Sep-12 Telok Batu Monco, Telok Bima, Pulau 08° 21.349' S 50 Exposed to south west, but otherwise Komodo Sumbawa 118° 43.547' E okay.

10-Sep-12 Telok Bima, Pulau Karanga, Pulau 08° 08.266' S 62 Sumbawa Sumbawa 117° 46.148' E

11-Sep-12 Karanga, Pulau Pulau Metang 08° 14.155' S 24 Large swell. Anchored in 10m. Left early Sumbawa 116° 17.614' E due to roly uncomfortable anchorage.

12-Sep-12 Pulau Metang Amoramor, 08° 14.155' S 62 Exposed to NW swell. Anchor in 10m. Lombok 116° 17.614' E Calm weather anchorage.

13-Sep-12 Amoramor, Lombok Medana Bay, 08° 21.762' S 14 Anchoring fee IDR50000 per day Lombok 116° 07.755' E

22-Sep-12 Medana Bay, Gili Air 08° 22.032' S 5 Exposed to S. Anchor 20m. Left at 3am Lombok 116° 04.937' E due to 25/30knot winds.

24-Sep-12 Gili Air Lovina Beach, Bali 08° 09.478' S 72 Slight swell. Good holding and plenty of 115° 01.400' E room. Anchor in 8-15m.

27-Sep-12 Lovina Beach, Bali Kumai, Borneo 02° 44.430' S 400 Dirty river. Good holding. 8m. Okay to 111° 43.970' E leave boat while visiting Orang Utans.

03-Oct-12 Kumai, Borneo Kelayang, Belitung 02° 33.300' S 265 Good holding in 10m. Dirty beach (some 107° 40.600' E caught worm parasites in feet).

07-Oct-12 Kelayang, Belitung Pulau Kentar 00° 03.340' N 240 Good holding in 10m - slightly exposed. 104° 45.631' E Opp. to have Equator party on beach.

10-Oct-12 Pulau Kentar Karas Island 00° 45.514' N 50 Good holding 5m off fishing village. Didn’t 104° 20.291' E go ashore.

11-Oct-12 Karas Island Nongsa Point, 01° 11.808' N 30 Marina and pool very nice, but far from any Batam Island 104° 05.837' E shops. Clearance done for a fee. Indonesia

15-Oct-12 Nongsa Point, Danga Bay 01° 28.390' N 50 Dirty but cheap! (A$30 per week). Toilet Batam Island Marina, Malaysia 103° 43.420' E and laundry facilities in state of disrepair. Indonesia

pg. 12

APPENDIX B: EXAMPLE PROVISIONING LIST Note: this list was used as a guide when provisioning in Australia. After five months there is probably a good percentage of items still on board. Take what you need to last three months as most items below are easily sourced once you reach Danga Bay at Johor Bahru, Malaysia.

Location Sub-compartment # Category Description Quantity

Galley Under sink Cleaning Garbage bags - small bin Head Under sink Cleaning Bleach 2 litres Head Under sink Cleaning Domestos 1 bottle Head Under sink Cleaning Vinegar (cleaning) 2 bottles Head Under sink Cleaning Washing powder 2kgs Head Under sink Cleaning Ammonia 1 Head Under sink Cleaning Boric acid Head Under sink Cleaning Brasso 1 bottle Head Under sink Cleaning Butane n/a Head Under sink Cleaning Cleaning cloths Chux/etc Head Under sink Cleaning Cleaning sponges 1 Head Under sink Cleaning Earth power cleaner 2 bottles Head Under sink Cleaning Eucalyptus spray 1 can Head Main cupboard Cleaning First Aid Kit(s) See other sheet Head Under sink Cleaning Fly spray 1 can Galley Under sink Cleaning Garbage bags - large 2 rolls Head Under sink Cleaning Glen 20 1 Head Under sink Cleaning Green scrubbers Head Under sink Cleaning Gumption 1 Head Under sink Cleaning Jif 1 Head Under bench Cleaning Methylated spirits 1 Head Under sink Cleaning Solvol 2 Head Under sink Cleaning Stain remover 1 Head Under sink Cleaning Steelo scrubbers 4 Head Under bench Cleaning Turps 2 liters Head Under sink Cleaning Wash cloths Head Under bench Cleaning Wax & Grease remover 1 liter Head Under sink Cleaning Window cleaner Head Under sink Cleaning Wood cleaner / Mr Sheen 1 Saloon Cupboards Drinks Cordial 8 bottles Saloon Cupboards Drinks Soft drinks Saloon Cupboards Food - Canned Canned - apricots 2 Saloon Cupboards Food - Canned Canned - beanshoots Saloon Cupboards Food - Canned Canned - beetroot 2 Saloon Cupboards Food - Canned Canned - corn kernels 6 Saloon Cupboards Food - Canned Canned - green beans Saloon Cupboards Food - Canned Canned - mackerel 2 Saloon Cupboards Food - canned Canned - oysters 1 tin pg. 13

Saloon Cupboards Food - Canned Canned - peaches/fruit 4 Saloon Cupboards Food - Canned Canned - potatos 3 Saloon Cupboards Food - Canned Canned - salmon 3 Saloon Cupboards Food - Canned Canned - sardines 4 Saloon Cupboards Food - Canned Canned - Spag bog 3 Saloon Cupboards Food - Canned Canned - Stag chilli 2 Saloon Cupboards Food - Canned Canned - tomato soup 3 cans Saloon Cupboards Food - Canned Canned - tomatoes (diced) 9 Saloon Cupboards Food - Canned Canned - tuna 4 tins Saloon Cupboards Food - Canned Coconut milk 3 cans Saloon Cupboards Food - Canned Anchovies 3 Saloon Cupboards Food - Canned Baked Beans 3 cans Saloon Cupboards Food - Canned Corned beef Saloon Cupboards Food - Canned Crab meat Saloon Cupboards Food - Canned Curry paste - Massoman 6 tins Saloon Cupboards Food - dry Biscuits - Choc chip 2 pkts Saloon Cupboards Food - dry Biscuits - Scotch Finger 4 pkts Saloon Cupboards Food - dry Cake mix - plain Galley Cupboard Food - dry Cheese - Parmesan 5 Saloon Cupboards Food - dry Chocolate drink 2 cans Saloon Cupboards Food - dry Coconut milk - powder 3 pkts Saloon Cupboards Food - dry Coffee - decaf Saloon Cupboards Food - dry Coffee - instant 1 lg can Saloon Cupboards Food - dry Coffee - jarrah 4 cans Saloon Cupboards Food - dry Couscous Saloon Cupboards Food - dry Crackers - Corn crackers 2 pkts Saloon Cupboards Food - dry Crackers - Jatz Saloon Cupboards Food - dry Crackers - pretzels 2 pkts Saloon Cupboards Food - dry Crackers - Rice crackers 4 pkts Saloon Cupboards Food - dry Crackers - Salada Saloon Cupboards Food - dry Dried - chickpeas 2 pkts Saloon Cupboards Food - dry Dried - yeast 2 cans Saloon Cupboards Food - dry Flour - plain 8 kg Saloon Cupboards Food - dry Flour - SR 4 kg Saloon Cupboards Food - dry Flour - wholemeal 1 kg Saloon Cupboards Food - dry Gravox 1 Saloon Cupboards Food - dry Lemon meringue mix 1 Saloon Cupboards Food - dry Milk - powdered full cream 8 pkts Saloon Cupboards Food - dry Muesli 4 pkts Saloon Cupboards Food - dry Mustard - powder 1 small tin Saloon Cupboards Food - dry Noodles - Singapore 3 x pkts Saloon Cupboards Food - dry Nuts - almonds 1 kg Saloon Cupboards Food - dry Nuts - cashews 2 kg pg. 14

Saloon Cupboards Food - dry Nuts - chopped peanuts 4 Saloon Cupboards Food - dry Nuts - for cooking slices, etc Saloon Cupboards Food - dry Pasta - spirals/penne 3 pkts Saloon Cupboards Food - dry Pringles 3 pkts Saloon Cupboards Food - dry Rice - Arborio 3 x kg pkts Saloon Cupboards Food - dry Rice - brown Saloon Cupboards Food - dry Rice - long grain 3 x kg Saloon Cupboards Food - dry Rice - sushi 1 pkt Saloon Cupboards Food - dry Spices - Basil Tube 3 Saloon Cupboards Food - dry Spices - Black pepper 2 Saloon Cupboards Food - dry Spices - Coriander Saloon Cupboards Food - dry Spices - Coriander tube 3 Saloon Cupboards Food - dry Spices - Cumin Saloon Cupboards Food - dry Spices - Curry power 1 pkt Saloon Cupboards Food - dry Spices - Curry power Indonesian 2 cans Saloon Cupboards Food - dry Spices - Garlic powder Saloon Cupboards Food - dry Spices - Lemongrass tube Saloon Cupboards Food - dry Spices - Salt 1 kg Saloon Cupboards Food - dry Spices - Tumeric Saloon Cupboards Food - dry Spices - White pepper 2 Saloon Cupboards Food - dry Tea - plain 200 Saloon Cupboards Food - dry Baking powder 1 Saloon Food - dry Bicarbonate of soda 1 Saloon Cupboards Food - dry Breadcrumbs 1 pkt Saloon Cupboards Food - dry Cocoa 1 pkt Saloon Cupboards Food - dry Coffee - perculator 3 pkts Saloon Cupboards Food - dry Cornflour 1 Saloon Cupboards Food - dry Dried - apricots 1 pkt Saloon Cupboards Food - dry Dried - bananas 1 pkt Saloon Cupboards Food - dry Dried - beans 2 pkts Saloon Cupboards Food - dry Dried - cheese (processed) 1 pkt Saloon Cupboards Food - dry Dried - dates 2 pkts Saloon Cupboards Food - dry Dried - egg powder 2 cans Saloon Cupboards Food - dry Dried - peas (dehydrated) 8 pkts Saloon Cupboards Food - dry Dried - peas (soup) 2 pkts Saloon Cupboards Food - dry Dried - potato 2 pkts Saloon Cupboards Food - dry Dried - shallots 1 pkt Saloon Cupboards Food - dry Dried - sultanas Saloon Cupboards Food - dry Easiyo satchets 20 Saloon Cupboards Food - dry Gnocchi 3 Saloon Cupboards Food - dry Lentils - green 1 kg Saloon Cupboards Food - dry Lentils - orange Saloon Cupboards Food - dry Matches 6 pg. 15

Saloon Cupboards Food - dry Mushrooms Dry 1 Saloon Cupboards Food - dry Noodles - long life dry 1 x 500gm Saloon Cupboards Food - dry Noodles - vermicelli 1 x 500gm Saloon Cupboards Food - dry Oats 1 x kg Saloon Cupboards Food - dry Onion flakes Saloon Cupboards Food - dry Onion powder Saloon Cupboards Food - dry Pasta - lasagne Saloon Cupboards Food - dry Pasta - macaroni Saloon Cupboards Food - dry Pasta - spaghetti 3 pkts Saloon Cupboards Food - dry Pie crust mix 1 pkt Saloon Cupboards Food - dry Polenta 1 pkt Saloon Cupboards Food - dry Popcorn 3 pkts Saloon Cupboards Food - dry Sugar - brown/raw 2 kgs Saloon Cupboards Food - dry Sugar - castor Saloon Cupboards Food - dry Sugar - sugarine 2 pkts Saloon Cupboards Food - dry Sugar - white 2 kgs Saloon Cupboards Food - dry Tea - green & chamomile 50 Saloon Cupboards Food - dry Tea - peppermint 50 Saloon Cupboards Food - dry Wasabi peas Galley Cupboard Food - fresh Cabbage Galley Cupboard Food - fresh Capsicum 3 Galley Cupboard Food - fresh Carrots 2 kg Galley Cupboard Food - fresh Onions 3 kg Galley Cupboard Food - fresh Oranges 3 kg Galley Drawer Food - fresh Potato 2 kg Galley Cupboard Food - fresh Sweet potato 2 kg Galley Cupboard Food - fresh Apples 2 kg Galley Cupboard Food - fresh Garlic Galley Fridge Food - fridge Butter 6 x 250gm blocks Galley Fridge Food - fridge Cheese - blue 4 Galley Fridge Food - fridge Cheese - fetta 1 Galley Fridge Food - fridge Cheese - Mersey valley Galley Fridge Food - fridge Cheese - sliced 2 x 24 slices Galley Fridge Food - fridge Cheese - Tasty 4 x 1kg blocks Galley Fridge Food - fridge Chocolate blocks Galley Fridge Food - fridge Chocolate buds 2 pkts Galley Fridge Food - fridge Meat - bacon 3 Galley Fridge Food - fridge Meat - ham 2 Galley Fridge Food - fridge Meat - mince 2 Galley Fridge Food - fridge Meat - sausages 6 Galley Fridge Food - fridge Meat - Strasbourg Galley Fridge Food - fridge Meat - Salami 3 Galley Cupboard Food - Jar/bottle Cooking oil - canola/vegetable 5 litre pg. 16

Galley Cupboard Food - Jar/bottle Cooking oil - olive 1 litre Galley Cupboard Food - Jar/bottle Cooking oil - spray olive oil 1 can Galley Cupboard Food - Jar/bottle Cream - carton 6 Galley Cupboard Food - Jar/bottle Ghee 2 jars Galley Cupboard Food - Jar/bottle Lemon juice 1 Galley Cupboard Food - Jar/bottle Maple Syrup 2 Galley Cupboard Food - Jar/bottle Pickles - eggplant 1 jar Galley Cupboard Food - Jar/bottle Pickles - mango chutney 3 jars Galley Cupboard Food - Jar/bottle Pickles - picallilly 1 jar Galley Cupboard Food - Jar/bottle Pickles - tomato chutney 1 jar Galley Cupboard Food - Jar/bottle Sauce - HP 1 Galley Cupboard Food - Jar/bottle Sauce - Mustard 1 Galley Cupboard Food - Jar/bottle Sauce - Soy 3 Galley Cupboard Food - Jar/bottle Sauce - Tomato 1 Galley Cupboard Food - Jar/bottle Sauce - Wasabi 1 Galley Cupboard Food - Jar/bottle Mayonnaise 4 Galley Cupboard Food - Jar/bottle Sauce - Worcestershire 2 bottles Galley Cupboard Food - Jar/bottle Vinegar white 5 x 2l bottles Galley Cupboard Food - Jar/bottle Condensed milk - tube 3 Saloon Cupboards Food - Jar/bottle Garlic crushed 3 jars Galley Cupboard Food - Jar/bottle Golden Syrup 1 Galley Cupboard Food - Jar/bottle Honey 2 Galley Cupboard Food - Jar/bottle Lime juice 1 Galley Cupboard Food - Jar/bottle Mustard - american 1 botle Galley Cupboard Food - Jar/bottle Mustard - hot Galley Cupboard Food - Jar/bottle Mustard - seed 1 jar Galley Cupboard Food - Jar/bottle Olives, green stuffed Galley Cupboard Food - Jar/bottle Olives, kalimata 2kg Galley Cupboard Food - Jar/bottle Peanut butter Galley Cupboard Food - Jar/bottle Semi dried tomatoes 2 x 2kg Galley Cupboard Food - Jar/bottle Tomato paste 10 Galley Cupboard Food - Jar/bottle Vegemite 5 jars Galley Cupboard Food - Jar/bottle Vinegar, Apple cider 1 x 500ml Galley Cupboard Food - Jar/bottle Vinegar, Balsamic 2 Galley Cupboard Galley supplies Dish liquid 2 liters Galley Cupboard Galley supplies Paper towels 12 rolls Galley Cupboard Galley supplies Aluminium foil 2 Galley Cupboard Galley supplies BBQ sauce Galley Cupboard Galley supplies Bouillon, chicken 24 Galley Cupboard Galley supplies Bouillon, veg. Galley Cupboard Galley supplies Bran 1 pkt Galley Cupboard Galley supplies Cling wrap 1 x 50m Galley Cupboard Galley supplies Disinfectant 1 litre pg. 17

Galley Cupboard Galley supplies Paper bags Galley Cupboard Galley supplies Tooth picks 2 Galley Cupboard Galley supplies Waxed paper Galley Cupboard Galley supplies Ziplock bags - large Galley Cupboard Galley supplies Ziplock bags - small Head Under bench Misc Glues, greases Saloon Library Misc. Canon printer cartridges no. 37 & 1 38 Nav Station Under bench Misc. Batteries - 6 volt for torch 2 Nav Station Under bench Misc. Batteries - 9volt & C size 4 Nav Station Under bench Misc. Batteries - AA, AAA, 9V, C cell 24 each Saloon Library Misc. A4 paper 1 Nav Station Under bench Misc. Notepads Nav Station Under bench Misc. Pens Nav Station Under bench Misc. Rubber bands - large / small Nav Station Under bench Misc. Sticky tape 2 Saloon Table Misc. Vacumn seal bags Head Main cupboard Toiletries Ungvita 50g Head Main cupboard Toiletries Deodorant 7 cans Head Under sink Toiletries Fly spray - Rid/Off 4 cans Head Main cupboard Toiletries Hair conditioner 1 Head Main cupboard Toiletries Lip balm, chapstik 4 Head Main cupboard Toiletries Panty liners 2 pkts Head Main cupboard Toiletries Shampoo 1 x 500ml Head Main cupboard Toiletries Soap - bars 10 Head Main cupboard Toiletries Sunscreen - 30 SPF 1 liter Head Main cupboard Toiletries Toilet paper 20 rolls Head Main cupboard Toiletries Toothbrushes Head Main cupboard Toiletries Toothpaste 10 Head Main cupboard Toiletries Baby oil 1 bottle Head Main cupboard Toiletries Dental floss 2 Head Main cupboard Toiletries Dettol 2 bottles Head Under sink Toiletries Fly spray - Aeroguard 2 cans Head Under sink Toiletries Fly spray - surface spray 1 can Head Under bench Toiletries Freezer bags (large) 2 pkts Head Under bench Toiletries Freezer bags (small) 2 pkts Head Main cupboard Toiletries Hydrogen Peroxide 100ml Head Main cupboard Toiletries Lavender Oil 100ml Head Main cupboard Toiletries Pawpaw cream 1 Head Main cupboard Toiletries Razors 5 Head Main cupboard Toiletries Rubber gloves 1 pair Head Main cupboard Toiletries Rubber gloves surgical 1 box Head Main cupboard Toiletries Soap - cream 2 litres

pg. 18

Head Main cupboard Toiletries Sorbolene 1 liter Head Main cupboard Toiletries Sunscreen - Bushmans Tube Head Main cupboard Toiletries Sunscreen - face 1 300ml Head Main cupboard Toiletries Talcum powder 1 bottle Head Main cupboard Toiletries Teatree oil 200ml x 2 Head Main cupboard Toiletries Tiger balm Head Main cupboard Toiletries Vaseline 2 Head Main cupboard Toiletries Vitamin E Cream 1 large bottle Head Main cupboard Toiletries Wet-ones 1 pkt Head Main cupboard Toiletries Zinc cream

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First Aid Treatment

Description Ailment Athletic foot cream Anti-fungal Band aids - general Bandages and strapping tape Bepanthol Dry skin Betadine Disinfectant Calamine Caneston Anti-fungal Clonea Anti-fungal Cotton balls and cotton tips Daktarin Anti fungal powder Dental repair kit Broken tooth Dermo relief ointment Skin problems Ear cleaner Ear infection Elastoplast Gaviscon Heartburn Ice spray Iodine / Betadine Lanolin cream Skin repair Laxettes Constipation Mylanta tablets Heartburn Paraderm Burn cream Paraderm plus Burn cream Permethrin Insect repellant Rectinol Haemorrhoids Rid repellant Safety pins Savlon liquid Antiseptic Sling Stingose spray Bites Syringe For washing wounds Tampons Not generally available in Indonesia - although pads, etc., are. Thermometer Codral Cold & flu Lalex Antibiotic Paracetamol and Ibuprofin Headache / Antiinflammatory Pramin Nausea (prescribed) Roxin Internal antibiotic Telfast Antihistamine Norfloxacin-GA 400mg Antibiotic diarrhea/bladder (prescribed) Simplotan tinidazone 500mg Antibiotic giardia (prescribed) Malarone Malaria prevention (prescribed)

pg. 20