2000 Annual Report Inside

ACCESS FUND LAUNCHES BOULDERING CAMPAIGN P. 24

2000 ANNUAL REPORT INSIDE

CLIMBING • CONSERVATION •ACTIVISM

Director. “Given the growing popularity of climbing, it is VOL• 42 critical that effective management practices are established • to protect unique cliff habitats while allowing for diverse climbing experiences. We encourage land managers to reach SEPT. 2001 for this resource before drafting plans affecting the climb- ACCESS FUND PUBLISHES NEW ing environment.” Copies of Climbing Management will be available to any- HANDBOOK TO SUPPORT RESOURCE one working on climbing issues. A limited number of com- plimentary copies will be available for Access Fund regional PROTECTION & CLIMBING AREAS coordinators, land managers, editorial reviewers, educators The Access Fund is proud to announce the publication of and local climbing organizations. Copies can be ordered a unique 96-page handbook providing the first-ever from the Access Fund (mailto:[email protected]) for overview of climbing issues and management approaches in $20.00 (shipping and handling included). Check or credit the United States. Supported by a grant from Recreational cards are accepted. Equipment Inc. (REI), Climbing Management: A Guide to Climbing Issues and the Production of a Climbing Management Plan draws from successful models of climbing management and local climbing organizations to create a useful tool for resource management planning. The goal of this handbook is to share information and encourage greater consistency in climbing management. Land managers are currently drafting management plans at such popular climbing areas as New River Gorge, West Virginia; Indian Creek River Corridor, Utah; Devils Tower National Monument, Wyoming, and others. It will also provide valuable guidance to organizations tackling climbing management issues abroad. Two years in the making, Climbing Management contains over 50 illustrations and previously unassembled information on topics such as climbing and cultural resource protection; bouldering; practices for mitigating impacts to vegetation, landowner liability; and education and outreach. The document also contains 30 pages of appendices and a 10-page bibliography. A summary and table of contents can be previewed at http://www.accessfund.org. “Climbing Management was written to meet the tremen- dous demand for information on climbing and climbing management issues from land managers, land owners and climbing organizations in the US and increasingly from overseas,” said Kath Pyke, Access Fund Conservation

vertical times november 2000 1 Jeremy Collins www.godismyrock.com

2 vertical times september 2001 GOVERNMENT POLICY PERTAINING TO CLIMBERS

The Access Fund opposes use fees for now and tell them that you support public lands. Recreational, non-com- full funding for our public lands – but mercial access to the public domain, through the appropriation process except for National Park Service lands, rather than through discriminatory and has always been free - it is part of our unnecessary use fees. national heritage. America’s national For more information, e-mail Jason parks, forests, wildlife refuges, recre- Keith, Access Fund Policy Analyst at PAY-TO-PLAY? AN EXPLANATION OF THE ation areas and open spaces are the [email protected]. ACCESS FUND’S POSITION ON THE birthright of every citizen and the RECREATION FEE DEMO PROGRAM opportunity to experience and enjoy these lands must be preserved. In 1996 Congress authorized the Congress should provide funding for Recreation Fee Demonstration Program the necessary protection and mainte- (“Fee Demo”) for a three-year test peri- nance of our public lands and their od. The program has been extended recreational facilities through annual three times for one-year periods and it budget appropriations. could be be extended again for four The Fee Demo program raises serious years in the Interior Appropriations Bill questions regarding societal impacts, for 2002. funding priorities, forest economics, The program imposes fees on certain and industry subsidies. recreational uses of lands managed by The Access Fund does not oppose the National Park Service, the United paying fees for developed facilities and States Fish and Wildlife Service, the services (such as campgrounds), but we Bureau of Land Management, the cannot support a “tollgate” charge for Bureau of Reclamation, and the Forest the privilege of simple recreational Service. These are not entrance fees activities that require little if any fees for simply walking, paddling, infrastructure. climbing, fishing or biking on public The Access Fund recognizes that lands. many federal land managers currently Also, in the Senate a bill has been rely on funds from Fee Demo to sup- introduced that would give federal land port infrastructure, maintenance and managers permanent authority to critical resource management programs. Access Fund collection impose new fees and raise existing However, the amount of money collect- fees. ed through Fee Demo can easily be off- For the past several years, the AF set by a small adjustment in has been working on this issue, since Congressional spending priorities. use fees directly affect climbing access. Before the American public is The AF is a founding member of the required to pay for the simple privilege Public Access Coalition, and has joined of parking a car on national forest with groups such as the Sierra Club and lands, Congress should end all subsidies the Outdoor Industry Association in for timber harvesting, mining and graz- ing on public lands. The Access Fund pushing Congress to open up the use “The Access Fund opposes use fees for public believes we should not institutionalize fees issue for public coment, to stop lands. Recreational, non-commercial access to funding for public lands management extending the “temporary” fee authori- the public domain (except for National Park through use fees, but rather support ty through federal spending bills, and Service lands) has always been free. It is our land managers through income tax- to provide more money for lands agen- part of our national heritage. Contact your derived funds already available in the cies to support recreation and natural legislator today to prevent the extension of federal budget. Contact your legislators resource protection. the Fee Demo program this fall!

vertical times september 2001 3 SOUTHEAST Kathryn Dodgen

71 volunteers completed trail work at Rocktown, Georgia and raised $2900 for the Access Fund, Southeastern Climbing Coalition, and the Jeff Wingo Scholarship Fund.

http://www.seclimbers.org and control on this state property. They http:www.southernslopers.com for have a blue and grey four-wheel-drive updates on the park’s status and infor- truck with a new laser gun. Go slow mation on how you can help. when visiting Rocktown!

R OCKTOWN, GA TRAIL DAY R ED R IVER G ORGE, KY On May 5, 71 volunteers joined The Red River Gorge Climber’s together to complete trail work and Coalition (RRGCC) is proud to host the maintenance on Rocktown Trail on “Signs-of-the-Times” Project in con- Pigeon Mountain in LaFayette, Georgia. junction with the Access Fund’s H ORSE P ENS 40 IS CLOSED They collected trash at the overlook nationwide Adopt-a-Crag Day during (report provided by bluff and collected climbing schwag the weekend of September 8-9. Climber http://www.seclimbers.org) through give-a-ways and a raffle that volunteers will be installing important On August 7th, The park at Horse raised over $2900 for The Access Fund, informational signs at parking areas, Pens 40, a prime bouldering area in he Southeastern Climbers Coalition, trailheads and crags to help protect Alabama, was officially closed. The clo- and the Jeff Wingo Scholarship Fund at natural and cultural resources at climb- sure stems from issues unrelated to Berry College! ing areas in the Red River Gorge (RRG). climbing. There are interested parties This project is intended to protect who are trying to lease the park and sensitive resources and inform visitors continue business as usual (climbing S PEEDERS B EWARE how they can help. The signs explain included), but nothing has been final- R OCKTOWN, GA the need to avoid camping and camp- ized. The DNR staff at Pigeon Mountain is fire building in rock shelters and at the The park is now for sale for a whop- constantly receiving complaints about base of climbing routes. Recent surveys ping $978,000. Even so, park developer drivers going too fast on Rocky Lane. by Forest Service personnel have Adam Henry said he thinks the closure The arrests that have been made in revealed that camping and fire building is not long-term and that the park response to these complaints have all in rock shelters pose one of the great- should re-open by fall. The Access involved rock climbers. The posted est threats to sensitive resources at the Fund is working with its Regional speed limit is 20 MPH. Remember, the RRG. This project is part of the RRGCC’s Coordinators and the Southeastern climbing opportunities in the Walker commitment to “promoting responsible Climbers Coalition to restore access as County Jail are limited. The Georgia climbing” through cooperation, initia- soon as possible. Check State Patrol is assisting with the traffic tive, and self-awareness.

4 vertical times september 2001 logging on to: BALANCED R OCK, WI NORTHEAST www.state.vt.us/anr/fpr/lands/ (report submitted by Steve Frye, Wisconsin willoughby Regional Coordinator) Climbers are urged to direct all The Access Fund/Wisconsin Outdoor inquires and comments to: Access Balanced Rock Trail Project is now complete. A $500 grant given to Gary Sabourin-State Lands Forester the Friends of Devil’s Lake group will Vermont Department of Forests be matched by the state of Wisconsin Parks and Recreation and FDLG for a total of $1500 to be 1229 Portland Street, Suite 201 donated towards new signage through- Saint Johnsbury, VT 05819 out the park. Last year a great group of climbers MIDWEST over 30 strong moved rocks the size of surfboards into place across a boulder scree slope just below Watermarks Wall and the Balanced Rock Trail. The Conservation Corp trail ran directly W ILLOUGHBY S TATE F OREST, below the climbing wall and led to V ERMONT L ONG-RANGE safety concerns and was a constant M ANAGEMENT P LAN IN source of irritation for climbers and THE WORKS hikers alike. (Report provided by Heather Hibbard, On June 16, WOA finished the pro- Vermont Regional Coorinator) ject by reworking the steps. The CRAG-VT members Alden Pellett, Will “bypass” is already proving popular. So Mayo, Jim Shimberg, and Access Fund much Booty was donated by Wheeler’s Regional Coordinator Heather Hibbard Campground and Climbing Shop in attended a June 13 public hearing held Baraboo that everyone who volun- by the Vermont Department of Forests, teered received something. Now the Parks and Recreation (DFPR) concern- hikers will have their views of the lake ing the long range management plan and the rocks for Willoughby State Forest. According • continued on next page to Gary Sabourin, who is spearheading the planning effort, there has previously been no representation from the climbing community despite the well- known recreational use of Mt. Pisgah, Wheeler Mountain, and Mt. Hor for world-class ice and rock climbing. There is a high potential for climbing access to be constrained in the area. CRAG-VT will work with the State of Vermont during this planning process and seek collaborative solu- Eric Landman tions that will preserve the history and integrity of climbing in this area. General comments regarding the stewardship of Willoughby State Forest On June 16, volunteers finished the Access Fund/Wisconsin Outdoor Access Balanced Rock Trail will be accepted throughout the plan- Project by reworking the steps. The project diverted the trail away from the Watermarks Wall ning process. You can learn more by to benefit hikers and climbers.

vertical times september 2001 5 Area Reports Continued...

as they pass and the climbers can areas such as Chihuahua Power and belay in peace. New Wave Wall. Local activists James SIGN UP FOR THE Special thanks to Jim”Big Air Crash” DeRoussel and Andrew Kornylak report Switzer who took time off from riding that although many crags are close to and work to mason a great entrance the highway, access should not be ACCESS FUND wall off the new entrance from the affected permanently. While the cliffs may be temporarily affected during the existing Balanced Rock Wall Trail. VIRTUAL construction, the contractors and Also, thanks to the volunteers who Forest Service have agreed to take the risked life and limb finishing the trail necessary steps to ensure post- TIMES in fine fashion. ELECTRONIC NEWSLETTER WEST AND RECEIVE MONTHLY ACCESS NEWS VIA EMAIL! GOTO WWW.ACCESSFUND.ORG AND CLICK “JOIN LIST” OR EMAIL [email protected] Adam Johnson “accesses” the Sundance Buttress, Lumpy Ridge, Colorado. photo: John Heisel

L ITTLE C OTTONWOOD C ANYON, UT QUARRY R ESTORATION Climbers are urged to avoid tram-

pling revegetated slopes and to stay Heisel John out of the restoration area in the vicin- ity of Gate Buttress in Little Cottonwood Canyon. Utah Regional Road construction on the Mount Lemmon, Coordinator Allen Sanderson has been highway in Arizona may close climbing at the working with the Church of Latter Day classic areas of Chihuahua Power and the New Saints and the county to create a for- Wave Wall. mal trail system that will alleviate erosion problems. The new trail system construction access. In some cases, access may actually be improved due to will parallel the one on the south side construction of additional parking pull- of the canyon with switchbacks to outs. Furthermore, the integrity and climbing areas. Trail building is expect- aesthetics of the rock should not be ed to take several years. adversely affected in the long-term. Construction is expected to continue M T. LEMMON, AZ through 2003. As individual phases of PLEASE NOTE: The Virtual Times (Report provided by James DeRoussel) construction are completed, volunteers does not replace the Vertical Climbers in the Tucson area have will be needed for access and trail Times but complements it to expressed concern that road construc- improvements. Inquiries and concerns keep you informed. tion on the Mount Lemmon highway can be e-mailed to will close or permanently alter classic [email protected].

6 vertical times september 2001 W ORKING FOR YOUR C LIMBING F UTURE MEET THE NEW POLICY ANALYST JASON KEITH, INTERVIEW BY JOHN HEISEL HEISEL: Where are you from? Where were you before you moved to Boulder? KEITH: I grew up in Seattle, but have lived in Wyoming, Utah, Arizona, and Colorado over the last 20 years. I recently moved to Boulder from Glenwood Springs, Colorado where I was working as a lawyer in a small firm. HEISEL: What are you presently doing for the Access Fund as Policy Analyst? KEITH: As Policy Analyst, I work on legislative, regulatory, and resource management planning issues. I’m responsible for building relationships, negotiating agreements, and advocating on behalf of the Access Fund in all levels of land management planning. Recently, I traveled to Castle Rock

Ranch, near City of Rocks, and toured the property with the Jason Keith collection climbing ranger there to discuss issues related to opening the climbing area next spring. It’s also my role to initiate discussions with environmental and recreation groups, and other advocacy organizations. Basically, I address any areas of conflict, mutual concern or agreement. This fall I’ll be working in opposition of the Fee Demo program that may be extended again. Jason airs it out on the Good Book in Yosemite California. HEISEL: Wow, that’s a lot! I hope you can find some time to favorite cragging areas like the City of Rocks. It’s also mak- crank. But more importantly, Jason, tell why do you climb? ing sure climbers have a voice in the planning processes at KEITH: It takes you everywhere – usually to the most beau- other climbing areas like Yosemite. The Fund has estab- tiful places on the planet. It’s also very goal oriented, and lished a national presence on critical management issues lends itself to absolutely unique experiences. So much pertaining to climbing, like fixed anchors, so land managers climbing; so little time… take us seriously. Really important to me is the Access HEISEL: What was your motivation to work for the Fund? Fund’s dual mission of maintaining access to climbing while KEITH: I’ve been climbing for 20+ years – some of my first working to conserve the resource also. People should know outdoor memories are following my Dad on these death that we’re not an access-at-all-costs organization. We work marches up snowy volcanoes in the Cascades. Before borrow- the conservation side as much as the access side. ing a stack of cash for school, I worked as a mountain guide HEISEL: Well then, why should people join? in the Tetons and abroad for KEITH: Climbers should join the Access Fund to help sup- about ten years. I then got a port our mission. I feel like a lot of people are passionate master’s degree in public lands about the issues the Access Fund deals with – joining gives policy and a law degree. My job them a way to show they care about their crags. here at the Access Fund lets me HEISEL: What can people do to help climbing access in their work to protect those climbing area? areas that I’ve used over the KEITH: Keep up on what’s going on, get involved in the years. process, and stay sensitive to the concerns of landowners. HEISEL: Yeah, but what has the HEISEL: OK, enough about work, what is your favorite Fund done for you or places you climb?! like to climb at over the last 10 KEITH: Probably whatever the most recent good climb that years? I’ve done. Three weeks ago, it was the the “Pitch of a John Heisel John KEITH: Where to start…the Hundred Hand Jams” on the Lost Temple Spire of the Wind Access Fund has worked to main- River Range in Wyoming. Hopefully there will be a new Jason Keith, Access Fund Policy Analyst tain access at some of my favorite after this weekend!

vertical times september 2001 7 2000 ANNUAL REPORT

8 vertical times september 2001 2000 ANNUAL REPORT

From the President and Executive Director The Access Fund’s past, and future, success is directly In 1990, thanks to the vision of a few climber activists dependent on the help and generous support of our and seed money from Yvon Chouinard, the Access Fund 10,000+ members, corporate sponsors, and Community was incorporated as a national, non-profit climbers advo- Partners. With the continued backing of these committed cacy group. Ten years later, we remain the only organiza- climbers and companies, our impressive team of volun- tion dedicated solely to preserving access for climbers, teers, local climber activists, staff and board of directors and to protecting the climbing environment. will do more – and better – things to protect climbing In 2000, we built on our previous successes by spend- freedoms and keep the mountains and crags healthy. ing more than $600,000 on innovative projects, actions, In the past ten years, we have accomplished a lot. We and resources to support climbing throughout the United have much to be proud of. We are not finished yet, States. We provided more than $175,000 through our though… not by a long shot. Threats to access and the Climbing Preservation Grants program for trail improve- climbing experience increase almost daily, but we are ments, environmental restoration, scientific research, and committed to prevailing in the challenges which lie ahead. climber education. We fought for, and won, passage of There have never been more opportunities for the Access the Castle Rock Ranch Acquisition Act, which preserves Fund to make a difference, and we have never been bet- exciting new climbing opportunities near City of Rocks, ter prepared to do so. Idaho. We led a coalition of climbers serving on a federal advisory committee, convened by the US Forest Service, to Sincerely, help resolve the fixed anchors in wilderness issue. We continued our fight to keep Hueco Tanks, perhaps the world’s finest bouldering area, open to climbing, and offered $100,000 to support climber education, trails, and resource protection there. We negotiated the acquisition Becky Hall, President of Quartz Mountain in Oklahoma, which will be preserved as a state park beginning in 2001. We prevailed in the lawsuit we joined to save Yosemite’s venerable Camp 4 from “redevelopment.” Sam Davidson, Executive Director On the Conservation front, we collaborated with North Carolina State University to publish an annotated bibliography of scientific research and studies related to climbing. We provided tens of thousands of dollars to preserve archeological resources at Red River Gorge (KY); for restoration of vegetation in eroded areas of Indian Creek (UT); and for wildlife preservation efforts in Arizona, Idaho, North Carolina, and California. We hired a cultural resources specialist to help us work out positive solutions to issues at Red River Gorge, Hueco Tanks, Cave Rock, Devils Tower, and the Bishop-area (CA) boulders. We also increased our commitment of resources to promote grassroots advocacy and local climber activism. At areas like Cochise Stronghold (AZ), Indian Bluffs (IA), New River Gorge (WV), Cradle Rock (NJ), Joshua Tree (CA), Kootenai Canyon (MT), Woodbury (CT), and Boulder Canyon (CO), we provided funds and other support for local initiatives to recover, improve, or preserve Becky Hall Sam Davidson climbing access.

vertical times september 2001 9 2000 Board of 2000 Staff Directors

President Sally Moser Michael Kennedy Executive Director Vice President Phil Powers Sam Davidson Secretary Senior Policy Analyst Becky Hall Treasurer Kath Pyke Rob Raker Conservation Director Board of Directors Conrad Anker Chris Archer Rick Thompson/Shawn Tierney Mia Axon Access&Acquisitions Director Jeff Bowman Susy Levin Truly Bracken Ken Cline Development Director Scott Cosgrove Russ Clune Aarik Eberhardt Malcolm Daly Assistant Development Director Paul Diefenderfer Andy Fitz Don Silver/John Heisel Charlotte Fox Publications Director Mark Kroese Larry Gustafson Heather Clark Eric Hobday Events Coordinator Goose Kearse Bob Margulis Reese Martin Kerry Cowan Chris McNamara Office Manager

Honorary Board Member & Founder Armando Menocal

10 vertical times september 2001 2000 50 WAYS ACCESS FUND PARTNERSHIPS MADE A DIFFERENCE LAST YEAR

Public Policy Areas Where Access Was Restored, Preserved or Where Our 1. Served on special committee to help US Forest Service Work Continues make new policy on use of fixed anchors in Wilderness. 16. Pinnacle Peak, AZ. Worked with City of Scottsdale to 2. Led coalition of climbers’ groups in continuing negotia- develop climbing policy; continued to advocate for official tions with environmentalists and government officials over reopening of the area. climbing in Wilderness. 17. Oak Creek Overlook, AZ. Negotiated with Coconino 3. Successfully worked with Congress and The Conservation National Forest to reopen closed section of popular crag Fund to pass The Castle Rock Ranch Acquisition Act – pre- near Sedona. serves exciting new climbing opportunities near City of 18. Red River Gorge, KY. Helped Red River Gorge Climbers Rocks, ID. Coalition develop Memorandum of Understanding with the 4. Participated in landmark government task force to Forest Service to consult on climbing policy, climber educa- develop guidelines for managing visitor capacity on public tion, and resource protection efforts. lands. 19. Rumbling Bald, NC. Continued to work on preserving 5. Mt. Hood, OR. Convinced Mt. Hood National Forest to access, lately threatened by illegal camping at the parking change wilderness management plan—would have reduced area. access to most popular climbing routes by more than 90%. 20. Golden Cliffs, CO. Continued to make improvements for 6. Appealed initial ruling on lawsuit over closure of Twin climbing and public access. Sisters at City of Rocks National Reserve, ID. 21. Madrone Wall, OR. Continued to support local climbers 7. Red River Gorge, KY. Successfully negotiated with in fight to save this area from quarrying. Forest Service to update management guidelines for climb- 22. Woodbury, CT. Worked with Ragged Mountain ing. Foundation to negotiate with private landowner over the 8. Continued to work with other recreation advocacy access trail. groups to oppose passage of permanent use fee legislation. 23. Lava Tube Caves, near Bend, OR — Worked with newly 9. Worked with Congress and public lands agencies to raise formed group, Oregon Climbers Coalition, and the Forest funding in the federal budget for recreation/resource pro- Service over resource concerns and access arrangements for tection. forthcoming Environmental Impact Statement. 10. Provided comments on landmark proposal to set aside 60 million acres of national forest land as permanent road- Land Management and Planning less areas. 24. Obed River, TN. Provided comments on proposed 11. Hired cultural resource specialist to find positive solu- climbing management plan for this prime Sandstone Belt tions to protect archeological and historic values at Red climbing area. River Gorge (KY), Hueco Tanks (TX), Cave Rock (NV), Happy 25. Eastern Sierra Wilderness Areas. Provided comments Boulders (CA), and other climbing areas. on revised environmental impact statement management 12. Hueco Tanks, TX. Offered $100,000 grant to Texas changes in three wilderness areas including: Mt. Whitney, Parks & Wildlife Dept. for resource protection, trail improve- the Palisades, and the Minarets. ments, and climber education. Continuing to work for eas- 26. Indian Creek, UT. Worked with BLM and Nature ing of restrictions through site-specific protection of arche- Conservancy to begin development of Recreation ological resources. Management Plan for Indian Creek Resource Area — will 13. Provided feedback to Congress during legislation to deal with camping, parking, and human waste issues. compel a study of rescue cost recovery. 27. Yosemite National Park, CA. Provided comments on 14. Submitted testimony for Congressional committee Yosemite Valley Plan and Merced River Plan – still working hearings on use fees and wilderness issues. closely with Park Service to protect Camp 4, preserve camping opportunities, ensure climbers’ transportation, and 15. Submitted comments on the US Forest Service’s new parking needs are met. Recreation Agenda, which applies to climbing areas such as Tahquitz and Suicide Rocks (CA), the Mt. Lemmon highway 28. Castle Rock State Park, CA. Continued helping to pre- crags (AZ), Jackson Falls (IL), Rumney (NH), and Mt. Hood pare climbing management plan and visitor information (OR). brochure.

vertical times september 2001 11 50 WAYS ACCESS FUND PARTNERSHIPS MADE A DIFFERENCE LAST YEAR

29. Big South Fork National River, TN. Continued to corre- included a site management plan, brochures, and signs. spond with National Park Service as General Management 43. Flagstaff Mountain, CO. Project with Flatirons Climbing Plan is prepared. Council and City of Boulder Mountain Parks to protect soils 30. Red Rocks, NV. Worked with Climbers Liaison Council and vegetation from erosion. to enter into Memorandum of Understanding with the 44. Linville Gorge, NC - $2,000 to North Carolina Wildlife Bureau of Land Management — will help review proposed Resources Commission for monitoring peregrine nest sites. routes, and support resource protection goals. 31. Cave Rock, NV. Provided comments to the US Forest Support For Grassroots Advocacy and Climber Education Service on an Environmental Assessment for new manage- 45. Cochise Stronghold, AZ — Grant to Southern Arizona ment policy for Cave Rock – successfully kept this area Climbers Coalition to assist with 4th year of annual pere- open to climbing and continued to seek compromise over grine monitoring project. The data allowed early lifting of Native American issues. restrictions at four outlying climbing areas. 32. Mojave National Preserve, CA. Continued to work with 46. Indian Bluffs, IA. Worked with Eastern Iowa Climbers National Park Service to finalize management direction for Coalition to respond to threat of removal of climbing Clark Mountain. anchors and wildlife concerns. 33. New River Gorge, WV. Continued working directly with 47. Supported formation of Climbers Alliance of Mid- National Park Service planners on preparation of climbing Missouri, dedicated to honoring local traditions, promoting management plan. safe climbing practices, and working with private landown- 34. Joshua Tree National Park, CA. Supported climber rep- ers on access. resentation on park’s advisory council and worked with 48. Cradle Rock, NJ. Worked with New Jersey Climbers National Park Service to develop new route protocol. Coalition to advance Preserve Cradle Rock Initiative—will 35. Rocky Mountain National Park, CO. Helped local save access through acquisition and easements. climbers respond to proposed changes to parking/access for 49. Joshua Tree, CA. Provided $5000 grant to help Friends Lumpy Ridge. of Joshua Tree publish newsletter and outreach to climbers.

Conservation Program Land Acquisitions 36. Worked with North Carolina State University to pub- 50. Quartz Mountain, OK. The Access Fund worked together with the Oklahoma Tourism and Recreation lish annotated bibliography of scientific research and agency studies related to climbing. Department, Witchita Mountains Climbers Coalition and Oklahoma State Parks system to acquire Baldy Point and add 37. Provided $10,000 grant to the Red River Gorge it to the Quartz Mountain State Park. The acquisition will Climbers Coalition and the Daniel Boone National Forest to preserve climbing at Baldy Point, which offers some of the study and preserve archeological resources. finest climbing between the Mississippi River and Rocky Pawtuckaway State Park, NH - $3900 grant to 38. Mountains. The Witchita Mountains Climbers Coalition raised University of New Hampshire Outdoor education program for more than $16,000 to support the acquisition. trails, signs, and brochure. 39. Continued working with resource managers and acade- mics to prepare ‘Climbing Management’ - a key policy document to help with local climbing plans, and climbing issues. 40. Donnelly Canyon, Indian Creek, UT $2000 to Rocky Mountain Field Institute for vegetation restoration using transplants and seeding techniques with Prescott College. Marion Hutchison 41. Listing of Year 2000 seasonal climbing restrictions around the U.S. on the Access Fund website and in the newsletter. Black Cliffs, near Boise, ID - $1800 grant to Boise 42. Quartz Mountain (Baldy Point), Oklahoma Climbers Alliance for an education outreach project that

128 vertical times september 2001 2000 National Trails Initiative

Since 1990, the Access Fund has financed, sponsored, and side of the cliff. organized cooperative trail projects from coast to coast, pri- marily through our Climbing Preservation Grants Program. •Wild Iris, WY- Made general improvements to existing The projects completed under this program are the result of trail including water bars and cliff base stabilization and the significant community support for the Access Fund’s restoration at OK Corral and Main Wall. efforts to keep climbing areas open and conserve the climbing environment. The spirit in which we work in partnership to •Shelf Road, CO- Completed a comprehensive trail system accomplish these projects embodies one of the Access Fund's connecting the Cactus Cliff, the Gym, the Cash Wall and the core values: community-based stewardship. The projects Vault to the newly built day parking area. included the following: •New River Gorge, W.V.- In partnership with NPS, •Tieton River, WA- Designed and built a sustainable trail designed and finished trial work, assisted with funding for a system to replace existing social trails, installed rock retaining tool cache. walls at key cliff base areas to address erosion problems. •Flagstaff, CO- In partnership with Boulder Mountain •Horsetooth Reservoir, CO- Completed restoration work Parks, completed an extensive restoration project at a popu- at Rotary Park bouldering area. lar bouldering area.

•Sinks Canyon, WY- In partnership with the BLM, fin- •Wichita Wildlife Refuge, OK- Maintenance and repair ished building 2,500 feet of trail to provide access to the west work of existing Narrows Trail, construction of new trail. Regional Coordinator Action Network

The Access Fund’s Regional Coordinator Network is the cor- Hawaii - Terry Kerby nerstone of our support for grassroots climber activism and is Idaho - Michael Lanza one of our primary resources utilized in keeping climbing areas Illinois - Eric Ulner open. As knowledgeable sources of information on access-relat- Iowa - Evan Fales ed issues, Regional Coordinators are the Access Fund’s princi- Kentucky - Shannon Stuart-Smith pal liaisons to local areas and represent climbers’ interests on Western KY & TN - Eman LaCoste both public and private lands. In addition, Regional Massachusetts - Al Rubin, Richard Doucette Coordinators can provide expertise on a wealth of related sub- Minnesota - David Pagel jects, from organizing conservation or trail-building projects to Missouri - Barry Gilbert Montana the acquisition of a threatened climbing area. - Steve Porcella, Nevada - Position Open The dedicated volunteers who serve as Regional New Mexico - Eric Radack, Bryan Pletta Coordinators are committed to providing climbers with solu- New Jersey - Jeff Holt tions that will preserve America’s diverse climbing resources for New York - Russ Clune future generations. North Carolina - Aram Attarian When access issues arise in your area, please contact your Oklahoma - Marion Hutchison regional coordinator. For general information, please call Shawn Oregon - Ian Caldwell, Jim Angell Tierney, Access & Acquisitions Director, at 303.545.6772 ext. Pennsylvania - Lonny Whitcomb, Bob Value 105 or Shannon Stuart-Smith, Action Committee Chair, at South Carolina - Sean Cobourn 859.269.8796. Tennessee - Frank Harvey Texas - Position Open Alaska - Position Open Utah - Allen Sanderson, Jason Stevens Arizona - Kerry Nodal Vermont - Heather Hibbard California - Mike Brown, Paul Minault Virginia - Dusty Wismath Colorado - Jim Ghiselli, Tod Anderson, Dave Turner, Washington - Andy Fitz Steve Johnson, Rick Thompson West Virginia - Gene Kistler Connecticut - Jeff Sargeant Wisconsin - Steve Frye Georgia - Chris Watford Wyoming - Position Open

vertical times september 2001 139 Funding Source of Funds Outreach Other 5 % Grants 2 % 7 %

Corporate 19 %

Individual, Foundation and Organization Support 67%

National Policy, Acquisitions & Fundraising and Use of Funds Special Programs Administrative 44.6 % 14.7%

Climber Education & Conservation These are unaudited figures. For our current audited 12.3 % financial statement, please contact Sam Davidson, Executive Director at 303.545.6772 ext. 101. Climber Outreach, Advocacy & Communication 28.4 %

The Access Fund. Your climbing future.

Help us conserve and preserve climbing by giving a gift to the Access Fund.

* Stock * Bequest * Charitable Gift Annuity * Pooled Income Fund If your gift is $10,000 or more, you may designate it for one of the following categories: Acquisitions, Advocacy & Activism, Membership,Trails, Education, Climbing Preservation Projects or Unrestricted. For more information on any of these options, contact Heather Clark in the Access Fund office at 303.545.6772, ext. 100.

148 vertical times september 2001 2000 Community Partnership Program Mark Weber

The climbing gyms, retail stores, local Mountain Sports-Boulder, CO Friends - $100 - $249 climbing organizations, guiding ser- Mountain Sports-Crossroads - 8000 Meter Club Members of S. vices, and outdoor programs in the Boulder, CO California, San Clemente, CA Community Partnership Program pro- The Mountaineer - Keene Valley, NY ACC Rock Climbing Club- mote the Access Fund’s mission of PATC Mountainering Section - Vienna, Queensbury, NY keeping climbing areas open and con- VA Action Committee for Eldorado- serving the climbing environment. As Puget Sound REI Stores-Seattle, WA Eldorado Springs, CO hosts of letter-writing campaigns, Adventure Treks, Inc. - Flat Rock, NC adopt-a-crag events, trail projects, Alpine Ascents International - Leaders - $250 - $499 membership promotions and other Seattle, WA AMC-NY Chapter Mountaineering fundraising events, Access Fund part- Arizona Climbing and Adventure Committee-Brooklyn, NY ners complement the Fund’s conserva- School - Carefree, AZ High and Wild Mountain Guides - tion objectives, educational outreach Aspen Alpine Guides, Inc.-Aspen, CO and grassroots advocacy. At the same Moab, UT Atlanta Rocks! -Doraville, GA time, the Access Fund provides the Hurst Sports Center - St. George, UT Avery Brewing Company-Boulder, CO climbing community with formal input New Belgium Brewing Co. - Barrel Mountaineering-Bozeman, MT regarding policy and management of Fort Collins, CO Black Dome Mountain Sports - climbing resources, a voice in Pacific Edge-Santa Cruz, CA Asheville, NC Congress, Climbing Preservation Petra Rock Climbing Gym- Blue Star Camps - Hendersonville, NC Grants and support for local clean-ups, Springfield, MO Boulder Mountaineering School- climbing competitions and slide shows. Philadelphia Rock Gym-Oaks, PA Boulder, CO Community Partners for 2000: Guides - Rim of the World Climbing Club- CA Polytechnic Outings- Poly $1,000+, First Ascenders-$500 - $999, Running Springs, CA Escapes-San Luis Obispo, CA Leaders-$250 - $499,Friends- $100 - Rok Haus Indoor Climbing Gym- Call of the Wild-Roswell, GA $249, Supporters-$50-$99, Lafayette, LA Camp High Rocks - Sanctuary Rock Gym-Sand City, CA Cedar Mountain, NC Guides - $1,000+ Solid Rock Sports - Shorewood, WI Carolina Adventures - Chapel Hill, NC Berkeley Ironworks - Berkeley, CA Chicago Mountaineering Club- Spokane Mountaineers-Spokane, WA Phoenix Rock Gym - Tempe, AZ Chicago, IL Stone Gardens-Seattle, WA Touchstone Climbing, Inc. - Berkeley, CityRock Gym-Emeryville, CA Summit Cayon Mountaineering - CA Class 5 Fitness-San Rafael, CA Glenwood Springs, CO Cleveland Rock Gym - Cleveland, OH First Ascenders - $500 - $999 Sunlight Sports-Cody , WY Colgate University Outdoor Education Appalachian Mountain Guides, Inc. - Sun & Ski Sports - Tulsa, OK Hamilton, NY Vilas, NC Teton Mountaineering-Jackson, WY Colorado Mountain Club - Golden, CO Arizona Mountaineering Club- Texas Mountaineers - Arlington, TX Cragmont Climbing Club - Phoenix, AZ Vertical World-Seattle, WA Berkeley, CA Mission Cliffs - San Francisco, CA CU Outdoor Program - Boulder, CO

vertical times september 2001 159 Partnership Program continued

Earth Games, LLC-San Clemente, CA Wilderness Exchange - Berkeley, CA Tahoe Paradise, CA Erehwon Mountain Outfitter- Wilson’s Eastside Sports-Bishop, CA Maine Rock Gym, Portland-ME Schaumburg, IL X-TREME Rock Climbing Center- Mazamas-Portland, OR Explorer’s Club of Pittsburgh- Miami, FL Mountain Adventure Seminars - Bear Valley, CA Pittsburgh, PA Mountain Adventure Tours - Exum Mountain Guides - Moose, WY Supporters - $50-$99 Scaly Mountain, NC Footsloggers - Boone, NC Alpine Club of Canada- Toronto, ON Mountain Adventure Unlimited - Hamilton College-Clinton, NY Aspire Adventures-Austin, TX Malibu, CA Kansas City Climbing Club - ATMAS-Fryeburg, ME Mountain Experience-Lakewood, WA Raytown, MO BaseCamp USA - Miami Beach, FL Mountain High, Inc-Wichita, KS K.E. Adventure Travel-Aspen, CO Blackhole Climbing - Clarksville, TN Mountain Ventures - Atlanta, GA Kent Mountain Adventure Center, Inc. Blue Ridge Mountaineering Assn. - New Heights Rock Gym - Tulsa, OK New Trier Climbing Club - Estes Park, CO Roanoke, VA Blue Ridge Outdoors-Blacksburg, VA Winnetka, IL Las Vegas Climber’s Liasion Council - Niagara Climbing Center - Blue Ridge Outdoors-Fayetteville, WV Las Vegas, NV North Tonawanda, NY Blue Ridge Outdoors-Roanoke, VA Lost River Sports - Hailey, ID Nomad, Inc-Roanoke, VA Memphis Mountaineers-Memphis, TN Boston Rock Gym-Woburn, MA North Idaho Climbing Club - Mission Cliffs-San Francisco, CA Bugaboo Mountain Sports - Sandpoint, ID Moosely Seconds-Jackson, WY Santa Cruz, CA North Wall, Inc - Crystal Lake, IL Mountain Chalet - Campmor - Paramus, NJ OKC Rocks - Arcadia, OK Prime Climb Climbing Gym- Colorado Springs, CO CASBC - Vancouver, BC Climb Aloha - Honolulu, HI Wallingford, CT Mountain Dreams International, Inc- Climbers Alliance of Mid-Missour - Ramsey Outdoor Store - Paramus, NJ Pittsburgh, PA Columbia, MO Rock and Snow, Inc - New Paltz, NY MTU Ridge Roamers - Houghton, MI Climbers at Georgia Tech-Atlanta, GA Rock Creek Outfitters - North Summit Climbing Gym- Chattanooga, TN CLIMBMAX - Ashevile, NC Wind Gap, PA Rocknasium - Davis, CA Climb North -Wexford, PA NU Climbing Club-Lincoln, NE Santa Fe Climbing Gym - Santa Fe, Climb Time of Cincinnati - Peregrine Outfitters-Williston, VT NM Cincinnati, OH Portland Rock Gym - Portland, OR She Climbs, Inc-Boulder, CO Colby Moutaineering Club - Sky’s The Limit-Red Rocks, NV Prairie Walls, Inc-Rochester, MN Waterville, ME Southwest Climbing Resource - REI-Phoenix, AZ Cross Country Connection - Santa Fe, NM Rhino Productions-Tempe, AZ Laramie, WY Stone Works Climbing Gym, Inc- Shasta Mountain Guides - CU Alpine Club - Boulder, CO Carrollton, TX Mount Shasta, CA Erehwon Mountain Outfitter - Texas Rock Gym-Houston, TX Sierra Mountain Center-Bishop, CA Prospect Heights, IL The Backpackers Shop - Skinny Skis-Jackson, WY Expeditions Unlimited - Wheaton, IL Sheffield Village, OH Southern Oregon Climbing Club- GearExpress.com - Utica, IL The Bag and Pack Shop-Vail, CO The Peak Climbing Gym-Casper, WY Ashland, OR Hakan Thyr Climbing Books - The Rock Barn-Plymouth, NH Stone Age - Manchester, CT Brighton, MA Venture Crew 5.10 - Amarillo, TX Stone Age Climbing Gym, Inc- Harborside Athletic Club - Vertical Endeavors-Saint Paul, MN Albuquerque, NM Portsmouth, NH Vertical Hold-San Diego, CA Stonehenge-Modesto, CA Higher Ground Rock Climbing Centre- Vertical Pursuits - Duluth, MN Talus Climbing Service - Boulder, CO Grand Rapids, MI Vertical Relief Rock Gym - Telluride Mountain Club-Telluride, CO Indiana State University - Flagstaff, AZ Texas Mountain Raiders-Houston, TX Terre Haute, IN Whitman College Outing Program - The Mountaineers-Seattle, WA Inner Wall - New Paltz, NY Walla Walla, WA University of Missouri Climbnig Club - Liquid Moon Sports - YMCA Prescott - Prescott, AZ Columbia, MO Olympic Valley, CA Long Rock Adventures - Upper Limits-Bloomington, IL

168 vertical times september 2001 2000 Summit CLUB THE SUMMIT CLUB IS COMPOSED OF INDIVIDUALS WHO CONTRIBUTED $250+ TO THE ACCESS FUND IN 1999 Mark Weber

Above the Clouds Gregory Schaffer Sandy Mailliard Jon Krakauer Tony Scott Brent Manning Thomas Isaacson George Shaw Drew McRoberts Michael Sherwin Jean Miller Granite $9,999–$2,500 Wayne Simon Rob Moellering Rick & Dee Booth Georgie Stanley, II Allan Nadel Robert & Ellen Hostetler Tyler Vogt Allen Peery Michael Kennedy Christopher Walker Phyllis Ponte Richard Ringoen Gayle Gordon & Rob Wesson Phil Powers Leon & Peggy Sharyon Keith Rampmeier The Lightner Sams Foundation of Quartzite $999–$500 Thomas Rihimaki Wyoming, Inc. Jeff Altherr & Teresa Alder Charles Schreck Dorcas Miller & Ben Townsend Drew Allan Evan Siddall Jim Angell Amy Simper Limestone $2,499–$1,000 Mary Beatty Ray Snead Samuel Adams John Burbidge Susan Sosin Drew Allan Rob Connoley Jack Staffa Jim Angell Jim Curl Allen Steck Bob Barron Steve & Amy DeWeese Roger Taylor Kenneth Cline Diane Escobar Richard Tyler Sean Cobourn Barry Gavrich Nick Van Driel Bill Cosgrove David Goeddel Ken Wagers Dan Crouse Edmund Grainger, III Chris Wegener Paul Diefenderfer David Green Doug Wilson Timothy Forbes Larry Gustafson John French Ed & Kathe Henry Sandstone $499-$250 Marilyn Geninatti David Hopp Rebecca Abernathy Kimberly Knox Peter Jackson Joel Ager Mark Kroese Loren Jahn Gary Allen Tom, Elke & Chris Lindner Mike Jenner Ron & Amy Ambrose Roger Linfield Pete King Michael Anderson Chuck Lohn Robert Koehnen James Ansara Ben Maddox Mike Kurinij Cheri Asher Charlotte Fox & Reese Martin Michael Lau Martin Avidan Burton Moomaw Randy Leavitt Mia Axon Hal Murray, Jr. John Lee Spike Bascou Robert Raker George II Lowe III, Elizabeth Regan Lowe David Benson

vertical times september 2001 179 2000 Summit CLUB continued

Bill Berkley Jan Michael Heinemann James Pearre Tony Berlier Josh Hess-Yoder Allen Peery John Bicknell Duncan Highsmith Rockie Pennington John Bliss Chris Hill John Prentice Gary Bocarde Margaret Judith Hillenbrand Lisa Foss & Robert Price Jim Boyd Bert Honea Dorothea Reilly Rich Branson Gregory Huff Robert Reynolds Glen Brazell Bradley Huffman Nicholas Rhind Patrick Brennan Hume Family Alfred Riddle Dennis Burns Ross & Susan Humphreys Thomas Riihimaki Clayton Caldwell Jason Hurst David Rikert Jay Smith & Kitty Calhoun Loren Jahn Greg & Diana Rogers Steven Capps Rich Johnston Peggy Sayer Hillary Cartimandua-Emer Chris Jones Robert Schaller, Jr. Bob & Kirstin Cenk Dann Kelehan Elan Schultz Paul Certa Robert Ryne & Elizabeth Kelly Sharon Scott Stephen Cole James Kennedy Mattie Sheafor Robert Craig, CPA Richard Kent Audrey Sheridan Eugene Dammel John & Kim Kent Jay & Andrea Shotwell Denise Danielson Steve Knutson John Sirois D. Kirk Davidson Jim LaRue Anne Smith Scott Davis Marc Leblond Tom Story George R. Carr Jr. & Amy Derbyshire Peter Pryde & Suzanne Lee Matthew Stover Laura Domoto Daniel Leu Barry Sullivan Martha & Richard Draves Dougald MacDonald Avon Swofford Thomas Duke Eva Gurne & Anthony Mannina John Taladay Sandy & Gale Dunlap Steven Markusen Kent, Laura, & Cassandra Taylor James Edwards John Matthews Donald Thomas John Ehrig Jim Mattson, Jr Susan Candee & Richard Tocher Maria Enrione Greg McAuliffe James Tucker, III Lisa & Phil Ensign J. Bruce McCubbrey Lein Tung Rich Fettke David McGavran Cynthia Tyler Sam Finne David McIlrath Jutta Ulrich Charlie Fowler Jason Mikos William Viner & Rebecca Upham James Frank Jay Moldow Mark Urban Donna Garoutte Mark & Steve Monti Terry Vest Kenny Gasch Robert & Barb Moody Richard Vlamynck Robert & Mary Gerstein David Moore Sarah & Randy Vogel Jim Ghiselli Brian Moore John Welton Chuck Gorman Bernard Moret Daniel White Phil & Becky Gruber Wally Naylor Walt & Suzy Wilkinson Yosh & John Haggerty Jeffrey Newsom Denise & Jean Wilks Robert Hall Claire Nolan Damon Williams Becky Hall Mia Jensen & Sean O’Malley T. Jon Williams Maureen Hamilton Bryan O’Sullivan Colleen Willoughby Rick Hanheide Bob Pace Bill Zaumen Allan Hass Kevin, Deven & Tejal Parikh-Carmichael Peter & Rebecca Zurcher

18 vertical times september 2001 2000 Corporate PARTNERS

Diamond Partners $20,000+ •Lowe Alpine Systems •Bearing Images •Black Diamond Equipment •Metolius •Cloudveil Mountain Works Bibler/Scarpa •Maxim Ropes •Excalibur DMM •Climbing •Prana •Free West Rock Guides •Galyan’s •Weathered Stone •Gravity Kills Company •REI Major Partners 1,000+ •Greischar Dungan Architects •Rock & Ice •Altrec.com •Jackson Hole •The North Face/A5 Mountain Guides •American Bouldering Series •Jagged Edge Mountain Gear Platinum Plus Partners $15,000+ •Arc’teryx •Joshua Tree Rock •Hothouse Design & Advertising •Cascade Designs Climbing School •Omega Pacific Mountaineering •Cordless •Moonstone Gold Plus Partners $7,500+ •Gregory Mountain Products •Mountain Madness •Hi-Tec Sports •Eagle Creek •Mountain Tools •Jansport •MountainWoman.com •Patagonia •Marmot •Polartec/Malden Mills •Nicros •Misty Mountain Threadworks •Planet Outdoors.com Gold Partners $5,000+ •Mountain Gear •Ropegun •Campmor •Mountain Hardwear •Seattle Manufacturing •Five.Ten •Mountainzone.com Corporation •La Sportiva •New Belgium Brewing Company •Mammut •Sickle Climbing •Outside •Sierra Designs •Nalgene •Outdoor Research •Petzl America •Phoenix Bouldering Comp •Soma Entertainment •Trango USA & •Phoenix Rock Gym •Stone Age Climbing Stonewear Designs •PMI •Sun & Ski Sports Silver Partners 2,500+ •PowerBar •TellurideGear.com •Advanced Base Camp •P-uR •Ushba Mountain Works •BlueWater •Royal Robbins •Verve •Boreal •Sport Chalet •XDOGS.COM •Boulder Rock Club •Sterling Rope •ZuluSports.com •Clif Bar •Wild Country USA Media Partners •Climb High •Yates Gear •Apex •Corplan Contributing Partners $500+ •Blue •Crazy Creek Products •All Terrain •Elevation •Entre Prises USA •Alpine Ascents International •Freeskier •Falcon Publishing •American Ref-fuel •Indoor Gym Climber

vertical times september 2001 1911 ACCESS FUND GRANTS PROGRAM GRANTS AWARDED IN THIRD CYCLE – JULY 2001

The Access Fund utilizes your membership dollars to fund projects that preserve or enhance climbing opportunities and conserve the climbing environment. Thus far in 2001, the AF has awarded $46,386 to applicants nationwide. Grants approved for the third funding cycle 2001 totaled $9,480 and were distributed to support five separate projects by local climbing organizations, public agencies, and conservation groups. Education and survey projects were prominent in this grants cycle.

1. INTERPRETIVE SIGNS TO HIGHLIGHT ROCK ART AT H UECO TANKS S TATE PARK, TX.

$3,530.00 to Hueco Tanks State Park to support an edu- John Heisel cation project highlighting cultural resource values, rock art and climbing at the State Park. Two outdoor exhibits will be located in the North Mountain Table Area - one on the End Loop Boulder area and the other on the “front side” cliffs. The target audience will be climbers and the general Looking Glass Rock, North Carolina park visitor. The Access Fund will be working closely with 4. GROUND RESTORATION PROJECT AT THE BASE the State Park over this project. OF L OOKING G LASS, NC. $2,500.00 to a project coordinated by Brandon Calloway, 2. EDUCATION BROCHURE AND STUDY ON GROUP NC Outward Bound School to carry out ground stabilization USE WITH N ORTH C AROLINA S TATE PARKS & and restoration work at the base of the three popular R ECREATION, NC. routes, The Nose, Peregrine and Sundial Crack on Looking $1,100 to Aram Attarian, President of Carolina Climbers Glass. Pisgah National Forest will be carrying out an envi- Coalition and Access Fund regional representative, for two ronmental assessment to determine scope and suitable projects. The first will entail producing a climbing educa- materials for the project before work proceeds. The project tion brochure for distribution at North Carolina State Parks. was originally planned as a 2001 Adopt-a-crag Access Fund The second focuses on group use at Crowders State Park and project, but will be extended into Spring 2002 while further will lead to management guidelines on mitigating and planning is undertaken. reducing impacts. Both these projects build on a successful partnership between NC State Parks and Carolina Climber 5. SURVEY OF LOCAL RESIDENTS TO ASSESS ATTI- Coalition in addressing climbing management issues state- TUDES TOWARDS CLIMBING AT G IBRALTAR R OCK, wide. WI. $1,100.00 to Wisconsin Outdoor Access for a survey of 3. PORTABLE TOILET AT JACKS C ANYON, AZ. local residents to better understand attitudes towards climb- $1,250.00 to Northern Arizona Climbers Coalition to sup- ing at the currently closed site in Richmond Memorial Park port 12 months of maintenance costs for a portable toilet at ( also known to climbers as Gibraltar Rock). This meets a the popular sport climbing area, Jacks Canyon. This grant request from Columbia County Highways Department who provides interim funding while local climbing groups work require this data as part of their requirements for reconsid- with Coconino National Forest over installation of a perma- ering access. The restoration of access to Gibraltar Rock has nent vault toilet facility which will address visitor needs in been the focus of local group, Wisconsin Outdoor Access, the long term. since the closure of the site in 1995.

2012 vertical times september 2001 Events Pinnacle • $4461 - 18th Annual Phoenix Bouldering Contest Calendar • $3185 International Climbers Festival, Lander, WY • $1950 Kickin Access 2001 Kurt Smith 9/9 Carmel,CA - Pinnacles Clean Up- date 10/13 Vantage,WA - Frenchman Coulee slide show EMS, The Rock Barn-Rhinoceros Mountain Guides, Plymouth, NH tentative, Mountain Tools, Larry Arthur and Trail Project- tentative date, Andy Fitz, • $1690 Kickin Access 2001 slide show Monteray Penninsula Climbers,831-620-0911 Frenchman’s Coulee Climber’s Coalition, REI with Kurt Smith, Neptune Mountaineering, Federal Way store,253-761-7866 Boulder, CO 9/14 Eldorado Springs, CO - Celebrate • $1145 Kickin Access 2001 slide show Eldo, Action Committee for Eldorado, with Kurt Smith, Sport Climbing Center, 10/13 Bishop, CA - Adopt-a-Crag- Happy Colorado Springs, CO Jennifer Shinn- 970-586-4075 & Sad Boulders, BLM, Scott Justham, 760- • $1130 6th Annual Rocktown Trail Days, 872-4881, [email protected], Wilson’s The Challenge Rock Climbing School & 9/15 Pocatello,ID - Pocatello Pump, Idaho Atlanta Climbers Coalition, Pigeon Eastside Sports, 760-873-7520, Mick Ryan, Mountain, GA State University, Peter Joyce,-208-236-3912 760-873-9147, Bouldering.com • $1011 4th Annual Adventure Photography slide show with Dan Bailey, 9/15 Monument,CO - Adopt-A-Crag: Fort Collins, CO Garden of the Gods, Bob Hostetler, 10/20 Houston,TX - 9th Annual Forearm • $805 Red River Gorge, KY-Kickin Access 719-488-8867 Frenzy, Sun & Ski Sports EXPO,281-537-0928 2001 Kurt Smith slide show, Miguels • $785 Foster Falls Climb Fest 2001, Southeastern Climbers Coalition 9/22 Laramie,WY - 4th Annual Fat Crack 10/20 Joshua Tree,CA Women Rock Josh Fest, Cross Country Connection, Wade • $752 Access Fund Boudering Blow Out, climbing workshop weekend for women, Upper Limits, Bloomington, IL Griffith, 307-721-2851 Friends of Joshua Tree, Patty Rambert • $630 Kickin Access 2001 slide show with www.friendsofjosh.org Kurt Smith, Blue Ridge Outdoors, New 9/22 Joshua Tree, CA - trail project and River Gorge, WV slide show, Friends of Joshua Tree, Phil • $540 Kickin Access 2001 slide show with 10/21 Golden,CO - Horsetooth Hang & Kurt Smith, Rock and Snow, New Paltz, NY Spinelli 760-366-9699 www.friendsofjosh.org AMGA annual meeting, Craig Luebben, • $500 Kickin Access 2001 slide show with 970-493-2849 Kurt Smith, Call of the Wild, Roswell, GA 9/22 Sam’s Throne, AR - Adopt-a-Crag- Sept. 22 & 23, Petra Rock Climbing Gym, • $465 Kickin Access 2001 slide show with 10/27 Enchanted Rock, TX trail project, Kurt Smith, SportRock Climbing Center, Corey Canada- [email protected], Alexandria, VA Texas Mountaineers- Friends of Enchanted 417-860-0104 • $465 Kickin Access 2001 slide show with Rock, Michael Lewis, 210-682-4480 Kurt Smith, Urban Krag Climbing Center, Dayton, OH 9/22 Charleston,SC - 4th-year • $460 Kickin Access 2001 slide show with Anniversary, Charleston County Park & 10/27 Box Canyon Clean Up, Stone Age Kurt Smith, Rok Haus Indoor Climbing Recreation, Jason Rich, 843-762-8090 Climbing Gym, Byran Pletta, Gym, Lafayette, LA [email protected], 505-341-2016 • $440 Kickin Access 2001 slide show with Kurt Smith, Mountain Dreams 10/6 Cincinatti, OH - 9th Annual Forearm International, Pittsburgh, PA Frenzy, Sun & Ski Sports, 513-745-0099 11/1 Bloomington,IL - Hangdog • $390 Kickin Access 2001 slide show with Jamboree, Upper Limits, Jody Furr, Kurt Smith, CLIMBMAX, INC, Asheville, NC 10/6 Boulder,CO - Adopt a Crag at the 800-964-7814 • $384 Royal Robbins slide show, EMS, Amphitheatre Oct.6 & 7th,Mountain Sports, Boulder, CO Flatirons Climbing Council and the Boulder 11/17 Enchanted Rock, TX trail project, • $325 Kickin Access 2001 slide show with Rock Club, Holly Scherbo, 3034428355, Dave Kurt Smith, Footsloggers, Boone, NC Texas Mountaineers- Friends of Enchanted Turner 303-554-8535 and Matt O’Conner • $325 Taylor Falls clean up, Midwest Rock, Michael Lewis, 210-682-4480 Mountaineering, Minneapolis, MN 303-447-2804 • $250 Climbathon/Pumpfest, Black Hills Climbers Coalition, SD 10/12 Tulsa,OK - 9th Annual Forearm 12/15 Enchanted Rock, TX trail project, Texas Mountaineers- Friends of Enchanted • $240 Kickin Access 2001 slide show with Frenzy-10/12-14, Sun & Ski Sports, Kurt Smith, Boulders Sport Climbing 918-254-0673 Rock, Michael Lewis, 210-682-4480 Center, Harker Heights, TX

vertical times september 2001 21 government programs that collect time NOLS instructor and executive funds be revoked. They discriminate staff member, and Stefan Jackson, against climbers. NOLS’ representative at the Negotiated Finally, the government should pay Rulemaking: RESCUE COSTS for the public lands out of tax money Powers: “Are you saying that it is I read about rescue cost issue in because that is the only way to truly the official position of NOLS that new Vertical Times and one thing comes to preserve the lands for the future. If fixed anchors should never be permit- mind: firemen. Yes, firemen. Kimber use fee income drops off then what ted in wilderness?” Fitzmorgan (Letters VT#41) thinks happens to the land? Probably a lum- Jackson: “Yes.” climbers should pay their rescue costs. ber company, or rancher would buy it, That was it. [This statement] was Does she think people should pay their and it would be gone from the public followed by a long silence, as most of fire department to come to their house forever. We need to maintain the lands the climbers in the room sucked in and put out a fire? What if a rat for the future generations that will their breath and had nothing to say. chewed through the wires? Does the want or need it. rat pay? Armando Menocal This question should open eyes to David Rector Wilson, WY the fact that climbers, homeowners, Lake Tahoe, NV drivers, and most other people use ARMANDO RESPONDS TO “ACCESS Access Fund Executive Director city, county, state, and federal funded FUND V. TRUTH” Sam Davidson Responds facilities. I believe that Kimber and Richard Morse responded in the past As a former NOLS field instructor, and the others with this opinion do not actual- issue of Vertical Times to my editorial Access Fund’s representative to the ly pay-as-they-go. These individuals (VT Vol. 40) criticizing the editors for Negotiated Rulemaking, I also was surprised are very selective about the organiza- allowing an opinion that “falsely por- by some of the statements Stefan Jackson tions they support, but they are usual- trays the National Outdoor Leadership made on behalf of NOLS during the negotia- ly hypocritical about the organizations School (NOLS) as an enemy of fixed tions. Richard Morse is right in that all they condemn. anchors in the wilderness.” He says, groups with a stake in the outcome of the I believe that climbers should pay that although I was there [at the fixed anchors in wilderness issue should for rescue costs when the climbers are Negotiated Rulemaking meetings], I work together. However, some of us felt that negligent. Ski areas charge skiers for got it wrong [about NOLS’s position]. NOLS was less committed to this goal during rescues if the skier goes out-of- Not only was I there, I took notes. In the meetings than we expected. We certainly bounds. I believe that any rescue cost them is this exchange between Phil did not intend to foster any personal issues be applicable to hikers, bikers, Powers, President of the American grudges or criticize the exemplary leader- and backpackers. I believe that any Mountain Guides Association, long ship and work that NOLS has consistently demonstrated on many other recreational use and wilderness management issues. Menocal’s editorial highlighted the differ- ences of approach and philosophy that pre- vented the Negotiated Rulemaking committee from reaching consensus. We hope that in the future, we can overcome these differ- ences and achieve a broadly acceptable, long-term solution to the fixed anchor issue. Stefan Jackson, to his credit, did try to act as a “bridge-builder” during the negotia- tions. From the Access Fund’s perspective, however, NOLS’s position, as Morse affirms, John Heisel John supports the continued (albeit restricted) use of fixed anchors in wilderness areas, Should climbers pay for their rescues? “Climbers should pay for rescue costs when the climbers are negligent,” says David Rector,”Ski areas charge skiers for rescues if the skier goes out-of- and Stefan could have made bounds. I believe any rescue cost be applicable to hikers, bikers and backpackers.” this more clear.

22 vertical times september 2001 TO ALL WHO’ VE HELPED US ACHIEVE OUR MISSION

climbing comps President Jim Waugh and everyone at the Phoenix Bouldering Comp, Ski Haus Becky Hall, CO–The Nature Conservancy International, Toni Brumbaugh, Inner Peaks Climbing Center, Page Lee hosting or giving a slide show Vice President Jeff Bowman, MA–Climber Activist KURT SMITH, ELAINA ARENZ AND DJ CHUCK!! YOU GUYS ROCK! Thanks as well to all the gyms and retailers out there supporting Kurt’s show and the work he’s doing for Secretary the Access Fund! So far Kurt’s tour has raised $15,000 and nearly 400 new members!! Eric Hobday, UT–Wichita Mountain Neptune Mountaineering, Boulder Rock Club, Matt O’Conner, Jim Shimberg, Jennifer Climbers Coalition Hawbaker, Hans Florine, Gene Kistler festivals, demos, membership promos Treasurer Leslie Van Orman, Kathryn and Jerry Dodgen, Lance Brock, Scott Glowgoski, Outpost Rob Raker, CO–Filmmaker Wilderness Adventures, David Appleton, Vertical World, Seattle, Board of Directors Boulders Climbing Gym Conrad Anker, CA–The North Face for just being awesome! Chris Archer, CO–Attorney Folks at the Lander Bar, Wilson’s Eastside Sports, Upper Limits, Pam Schmick, Andy Mia Axon, CO–CO Outward Bound School Carson, David Silberman, Conrad Anker, Rob Raker, Eric Hobday, Charlotte Fox, Reese Leslie Brown, WA–Electric Lightwave Martin, Mark Kroese, Armando Menocal, Becky Hall, Lisa Rands, Wills Young Tommy Andy Carson, WY–Trad Climber Caldwell, Dave Graham Ken Cline, CO–Computer Consultant Andy Fitz, WA–Asst. Attorney General 2001 CORPORATE PARTNERS Charlotte Fox, CO–High Altitude Climber The Access Fund sends great thanks to industry members and like-minded Larry Gustafson, TX–Attorney businesses for partnering with the Access Fund this year. Pat Jodice, OR–Oregon Cooperative PLEASE SUPPORT THEM Fish & Wildlife Unit Goose Kearse, NC–Misty Mt. Threadworks Diamond Partners $20,000 •Boulder Rock Club •Yates Gear Michael Kennedy, CO–Former Owner and •Black Diamond, Bibler/Scarpa •Corplan Editor of Climbing •Climbing •Eagle Creek Contributing Partners $500+ Mark Kroese, WA–Writer, Climber Activist •Galyan’s •Entre Prises USA •All Terrain •REI •Falcon Publishing Bob Margulis, WA–Climber Activist •Alpine Ascents International •Rock & Ice •Gregory Mtn. Products •Bearing Images Reese Martin, CO–Sempra Energy •Kelty •Cloudveil Mountain Works Chris McNamara, CA–SuperTopo, LLC Platinum+ Partners •Lowe Alpine Systems •Excalibur DMM Dave Rosenstein, NY–Campmor $15,000+ •Metolius •Flannel Design Shannon Stuart Smith, KY–Attorney •Hothouse Design & Advertising •Maxim Ropes •Gravity Kills Company Jeff Widen, CO–CO Environmental Coalition •Omega Pacific Mountaineering •New Belgium Brewing Co. •Greischar Dungan Architects •Sterling Rope •Jackson Hole Mountain Guides Platinum Partners •Weathered Stone Honorary Board Member & Founder •Jagged Edge Mountain Gear $10,000+ •Joshua Tree Rock Armando Menocal, WY–Human Rights & Major Partners 1,000+ •The North Face Climbing School Environmental Advocate •Altrec.com •Megalith •American Bouldering Series Gold Plus Partners •Mountain Madness Access Fund Staff •Arc’teryx $7,500+ •Mountain Tools •Cascade Designs/ Executive Director •CLIF Bar •Nicros Therm-a-Rest Sam Davidson . . . . . [email protected] •Patagonia •Philadelphia Rock Gym •Cordless •Polartec/Malden Mills •Ropegun Conservation Director •Hi-Tec Sports •W.L. Gore •Seattle Manufacturing Kath Pyke ...... [email protected] •Jansport Corporation Gold Partners $5,000+ •Marmot Access & Acquisitions Director •Shoreline Mountain Products •Campmor •Misty Mountain Threadworks Shawn Tierney . . . [email protected] •Sickle Climbing •Crazy Creek Products •Mountain Gear •Soma Entertainment Policy Analyst •Five.Ten •Mountain Hardwear •Stone Age Climbing Jason Keith...... [email protected] •La Sportiva •Outside •T.K. Michaels D.D.S., P.S. • Climb High/Mammut •Outdoor Research Publications Director •Voodo Holds •Nalgene •Phoenix Bouldering Comp John Heisel ...... [email protected] •Ushba Mountain Works •Petzl America •Phoenix Rock Gym •ZuluSports.com Associate Development Director •PrAna •PMI Heather Clark. . . [email protected] •Trango USA & •PuR Media Partners Stonewear Designs •Red Point, Inc. Membership Director •Blue •Royal Robbins Kerry Cowan . . . . . [email protected] •Elevation Silver Partners 2,500+ •Sport Chalet •Freeskier Office Assistant •Advanced Base Camp •Sun & Ski Sports •Southeastern Adventures Aimee Baker •BlueWater •Wild Country/Red Chili USA •Boreal

vertical times september 2001 23 The Access Fund, PO Box 17010 Non-Profit Org. Boulder, CO 80308 US Postage PAID Permit No. 904 THE BIG STORY Address Service Requested Denver , CO Climbing Management Plan . . . . .p.1 MEET THE A.F. ANGEL A new cartoon series by Jeremy Collins p.2 POLICY UPDATE Use Fees ...... p. 3 AREA REPORTS Regional access news across the nation ...... p. 4-6 MEET THE ACCESS FUND New Policy Analyst Jason Keith . . .p. 7 2000 ANNUAL REPORT Letter for the President and Executive Director, reports, accomplishments, and year 2000 supporters ...... p. 8-19 RESOURCE UPDATE Third Cycle 2001 Grants ...... p. 20 HOT PROJECTS AND EVENTS: Sizzling Fall events near you . . .p.21 LETTERS Responses from climbers ...... p. 22 THANKS AND PARTNERS Events/volunteer thank yous and CCESS UND AUNCHES OULDERING AMPAIGN Corporate Partners ...... p. 23 A F L B C The Access Fund has initiated a •Target a portion of the Access Fund The Access Fund is a national, nonprofit dedicated to keeping climbing areas open & nationwide bouldering campaign for grants program towards improving conserving the climbing environment. Since its 2001-2002 to preserve access and nat- opportunities for bouldering, or reduc- incorporation in 1990, the Access Fund has ural resources at America’s diverse ing impacts at bouldering sites. provided more than $1 million for climbing conservation and education across the US. bouldering areas. After consulting with We’ve paid for land purchases, climbers’ camp- well-known climbers, local climbing E DUCATION AND O UTREACH: grounds, educational brochures, toilets, signs, organizations and Access Fund Regional •Produce an inspirational poster fea- and scientific research on climbers’ impact on birds of prey and cliff-dwelling plants. For Coordinators, the AF has produced the turing top boulderers with endorsement more information, please contact us. purpose and initiatives described statement, simple bouldering code and below: industry logo’s. www.accessfund.org •Produce a laminated tag with boul- C AMPAIGN P URPOSE dering code for use on sales tags of phone: 303-545-6772 •To raise awareness about bouldering bouldering products. address: P.O. Box 17010, among land managers and the public. •To promote care and respect for •Stickers for events, retail outlets, Boulder, CO 80308 natural places visited by boulderers. gyms, etc. •To mobilize the climbing communi- •Enlist the support of our corporate Vertical Times is the membership ty to act responsibly and work. cooper- and community partners. newsletter of the Access Fund pub- atively with land managers and land •Work with popular bouldering web- lished six times a year in January, owners. site webmasters to incorporate our March, May, July, September and •To protect and rehabilitate boulder- campaign message on their sites. November. Authorizing organization: ing resources. •Produce a “bouldering whitepaper” the Access Fund, 2475 Broadway, •To preserve bouldering access. with management guidance for land Boulder, CO 80304. managers and local climbing organiza- This issue date: September 1, 2001. M AJOR C AMPAIGN I NITIATIVES Volume #42. Price: $30/yr. •Target the acquisition of a signifi- tions working on access issues at boul- Editorial Director: Sam Davidson cant bouldering area under threat. dering sites. Editor: John Heisel •Provide a telephone help-line for For more information, e-mail Shawn Exceeds 50 percent recycled content support and advice on dealing with Tierney, Access Fund Access and Acquisition bouldering access issues. Director, at [email protected].

24 vertical times september 2001