Big Shopping Weekend Has Good, but Not Great, Turnout

Daily Edition november 28, 2016 1

Brow Beater Going Bigger Banana Band Benefit Cosmetics may now be Selfridges has unveiled Greg Lauren unveils a the market leader in the brow the first phase of its new Made in L.A. collection with category thanks to social media. accessories department. Banana Republic. Page 11 Page 9 Page 12 Fashion. Beauty. Business.

business Big Shopping Weekend Has Good, but Not Great, Turnout ● Store executives say Thanksgiving weekend results Track were decent although no barometer for the overall season.

By David Moin with contributions from Vicki M. Young, Sharon Edelson, Jean E. Palmieri, Kari Hamanaka and And Field Holly Haber Retailers got through the Thanksgiving Athletic references have crept into designer stretch well enough, thanks largely to collections the past few seasons, and for spring, their online operations, but there’s a long bumpy ride ahead. ready-to-wear and performance brands alike opted And they’re holding their breath that for graphic, color-blocked track separates with apparel will start to pick up. throwback appeal. Paired with a sleek shirt and Still, decent store traffic and the significant online gains from Nov. 24 through reworked denim, track jackets look anything but Nov. 27 have retailers hopeful of meeting dated. Here, P.E. Nation’s polyester and mesh jacket; their modest holiday gains of around Tibi’s cotton shirt; From Trinity’s cotton denim 3 percent. Cyber Monday, which has evolved into a Sunday-Monday event; fore- jeans; Joseph shoes; earrings from Anteprima, casts for a colder winter, and Americans Chrishabana and Vita Fede; Spinelli Kilcollin rings. seeking “retail therapy” for relief after the For more, see pages 4 and 5. pain of the long and divisive presidential campaign are giving retail executives Photograph by Kinya cause for optimism. “People are saying, ‘let’s move on with life.’ That’s why you’re going to see strong sales,” predicted Greg Maloney, Americas chief executive officer of JLL Retail, which provides retail investment and property management services. ndrew S hang A ndrew S tyled by E mily M ercer; ssistant: Craig Johnson, president of Customer Growth Partners, said overall for the Thanksgiving period, traffic levels were OK and flattish. “It wasn’t a blowout but arket A ashion M arket it was consistent with our forecast of a 4.1 percent gain in total sales, $632 billion aylor; F from November to December, compared to $607 billion last year, excluding autos, auto parts, gas, oil and restaurants. More than half the increase is coming from the roduction: E mily T roduction: Internet.” He’s more bullish than the NRF, which projects a 3.4 percent gain in sales for the season. “This is the best year for consumer electronics since 2006,” Johnson said, spurred by TVs where prices were down 20 to 25 percent year-over-year. TVs, toys and other hardlines outpaced apparel sales, which were up 1 percent in sales dollars while apparel unit volume was up 5 percent. The difference is apparel’s 4 percent in price deflation. Traffic was fueled by “tons of stores at 40 to 50 percent off. Some of the promotions were planned, some unplanned. He said shoppers from Asia were “mobbing lite; P M odel: Jada at E lite; H azuki M atsushita; by H air and makeup atanabe; the high-end of Woodbury Common” including the Prada, Saint Laurent and Tory Burch outlets, suggesting renewed interest in luxury among tourists. Many bring back items for family or friends, or

itsuyoshi W M itsuyoshi ssistant: resell them, he said. “Black Friday is an imperfect predictor

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business greets in various Bloomingdale’s locations. In the beauty sector, the retailer hosted in-person events in partnership Topshop, Adidas, Nordstrom with Allure magazine. This triad of Top 5 engagement served its growth well. Tap Accessibility for High ROI Across all brand and retailers in the top 10 earned media value rankings, Trending ● During September, these certain brands and mimicking their Instagram served as the top provider for on WWD.com brands and retailers dropped apparent shopping behavior — despite the earned media value. fact a chunk of bloggers’ wardrobes are exclusivity in exchange for frequently gifted or provided in exchange Top 10 Non-Luxury Brands by EMV — accessibility for big payoffs. for a social shout-out. September 2016 Topshop and Adidas — representing the 1. Adidas By Elizabeth Doupnik number-one spots in third-party retailer 2. Zara and non-luxury apparel segments, respec- 3. Nike Tribe Dynamics’ September earned tively — have cashed in on the blogger and 4. H&M media value reports revealed that brands social media frenzy while expertly align- 5. Topshop and retailers such as Topshop, Adidas ing themselves with the socially minded 6. Forever 21 and Nordstrom succeeded in significantly Millennial set. 7. Fashion Nova growing their value via heightened engage- What’s arguably more interesting is 8. Tommy Hilfiger ment with top social media influencers. the revitalization of Tommy Hilfiger and 9. Michael Kors Tribe Dynamics quantifies the estimated Bloomingdale’s. Tommy Hilfiger created 10. Missguided value of publicity gained through digital waves during its New York Fashion Week earned media and respective engagement show, debuting a collaboration with social Top 10 Third-Party Retailers by EMV levels to devise its earned media value. supermodel Gigi Hadid. The report noted — September 2016 The agency assigns a specific dollar value that Hadid’s runway show and social 1. Topshop to each piece of content based on the pub- gushing accrued about $2.2 million in 2. Asos lishing value of digital word-of-mouth. earned media value from her 26 posts. 3. Nordstrom Once aspirational images and advertis- What’s more, mentions of Tommy x Gigi 4. Urban Outfitters ing campaigns depicting unattainable set- earned $9.6 million EMV. 5. Revolve tings were the way to succeed in getting Bloomingdale’s secured the number 6. Macy’s consumers’ mouths to water. These days, 10 position in third-party retailers with 7. Net-a-porter “Gilmore Girls” shoppers aren’t interested in what they impressive year-on-year growth — about 8. Anthropologie can’t have, they’re looking for how seem- 195 percent. In September, the retailer 9. NastyGal Costume Designer ingly real-person bloggers are wearing tapped top influencers to hold meet and 10. Bloomingdale’s Talks Netflix Reboot and the Story Behind business Hampshire in its statement said, “While we are disappointed with this Rory’s Handbag Hampshire Files for Chapter 11 outcome, the prospect of the company being unable to continue to effectuate ● Brenda Maben talks ● The company said litigation company’s creditors and stakeholders,” a controlled wind-down of its licensed reuniting with the show’s with a creditor forced it into Hampshire said in a statement. “Regret- businesses out-of-court were severely cast and the significance of tably, the litigation efforts pursued by and negatively jeopardized by the actions bankruptcy to wind down its one unsecured creditor since July of this taken by a single unsecured creditor.” Rory’s Jamah bag. licensed business. year have compelled the company and The company specializes in men’s certain of its affiliates to seek protection sportswear for department stores and ● More Details Emerge as By Evan Clark under Chapter 11 in order to continue mass merchants, including Dockers Nasty Gal Bankruptcy to pursue, and ultimately complete, the under a license that was expanded in Proceedings Roll On After struggling with litigation, financ- wind-down process without disruption.” 2014, but has been shifting back to Levi ing and a changing marketplace, Hamp- The largest unsecured creditor listed Strauss & Co. this fall. Hampshire also ● Personalized Denim: shire Group filed for Chapter 11 bank- in the filing is Seoul-based Onewoo made private label goods and was explor- Japan’s Custom Craze ruptcy protection in Delaware. Corp., which is listed as being owed a ing options for its James Campbell brand. The New York company said it was disputed claim of $3.5 million. Onewoo In conjunction with the bankruptcy, ● Dior Homme Unveils “unable to attract a financing source to sued Hampshire as well as its chairman Hampshire received a commitment from provide adequate liquidity to fund the and chief executive officer Paul Bux- its senior secured credit, Salus Capital Black Carpet Collection company’s ongoing strategic turnaround baum and chief financial officer William Partners, that will allow it to use “cash In Beijing initiatives.” Drozdowski in New York in June, alleging collateral in accordance with a mutually “As a result, the company’s board of that it was owed $4.5 million for over agreed upon budget that is designed to ● Workers at Topshop’s directors determined that an orderly liq- 500,000 total units of shirts and pants afford the company the requisite runway Distribution Depot Plan uidation and wind-down of its licensed delivered in the prior seven months. The to consummate the wind-down effort that Strike on Cyber Monday businesses would be the best way to suit claimed breach of conduct and fraud has been diligently pursued over the past maximize value for the benefit of the amid other charges. several months.” NEWSMAKERS business This Week’s Most Talked About Names Experts Warn of Counterfeit Risk During Holidays In Our Industry ● As retail sales peak during the Phillips Nizer LLP partner Jeremy eBay, and work with them to have coun- shopping season, Richardson said consumers, retailers and terfeits taken down.” Behr offered some brands can all be negatively impacted by advice for consumers too: “If it looks too so do sales of phony goods. the sales of counterfeit goods. Over the good to be true, it almost surely is.” By Arthur Zaczkiewicz past decade, efforts to thwart the produc- Behr shared some firsthand insights as tion of counterfeit goods has resulted in an example. “A few years ago, I bought a

BEI / S hutterstock M att B aron/ by acon; Lauren As shoppers swarm stores and shop some wins. But online shopping and social Giorgio Armani tie from a prominent off- online for the best deals and the holiday media has reinvigorated the market — price New York retailer,” he explained. “It Jason Wu Rita Ora shopping season officially kicks off this especially around the holidays, according has the control tag and proper labels. The ave T D ave u by weekend, retailers and brands are look- to brand protection firm MarkMonitor. next time I was in the shop, another also ing to post their highest sales volumes of Alan Behr, a partner at Phillips Nizer bore the Armani control tag and label. I the year. with practice areas that focus on intellec- picked up another example of that neck-

etflix; W N etflix; dyani/ But it is also a peak time for sales of tual property protection and trademark tie — same pattern, same color — and this counterfeit goods, which is a $600 billion enforcement for fashion, luxury and time it had the Yves Saint Laurent label.” global market, according to the World general market brands, said “counterfeits Behr said he asked the staff about it, Trademark Review. And according to law are a fact of life in Asia, but efforts to stop “and they speculated that both companies enforcement officials and brand protec- them here [in the U.S.] have met with sold the same tie. Wrong. My earlier pur- Greg Lauren Roland Mouret tion firms, designer handbags and acces- some success.” chase and those two were all counterfeit. sories are some of the most counterfeited For brands, Behr said “you have to Only an expert would have known, but for irls’ still by S aeed A by still G irls’ G ilmore ‘ goods offered in the market. monitor the big sites, such as Amazon and the mistake of using different labels.” november 28, 2016 4

Koché’s satin jacket. Joseph’s patchwork nylon jacket. No Ka’oi’s polyamide and elastane pullover.

Trends Tracksuits And Track Field

Ready-to-wear and athletic brands introduced bright, colorfully blocked track separates for spring, a nod to Nineties vintage dressing that has a notably modern-day appeal. From the vibrant and roomy Koché jacket to the slim-fitted version at Sandro, there’s an ath-leisure style and fit for more than the track. Styled by Andrew Shang Photographs by George Chinsee

Nike’s polyester pants. Koché’s satin pants. Tim Coppens’ nylon pants. november 28, 2016 5

Mr. & Mrs. Italy’s viscose, virgin wool, Sandro’s viscose and polyamide jacket. Kith’s polyester jacket. cotton and elastane jacket.

Photo Assistant Fashion Market Assistant Mitsuyoshi Watanabe Emily Mercer Trends Tracksuits

Deveaux’s lightweight Mr. & Mrs. Italy’s cotton, Gypsy Sport’s polyester pants. cotton pants. polyamide and elastane pants. november 28, 2016 6

Big Shopping Weekend Has Good, but Not Great, Turnout continued from page 1

of the total season’s sales. Year after year, we have seen a lot of people buying much closer to need,” Johnson said. Amazon, Best Buy, Target, Nordstrom, H&M, Lululemon, Sephora, Victoria’s Secret, Macy’s, J.C. Penney, Primark, as well as outlet centers such as Woodbury Common in New York, were seen as among the strongest traffic generators over the last four days, although observers said brick and mortar traffic was at best flat and most probably down. Retailers caution that the Thanksgiving period, while critical, is not necessarily a Here and below: barometer for the season. Concerns range The scene on Black Friday. from too much outerwear and apparel on the shelves to the shopping lull that big surge at the end. We have a number of Shay said. The line started at 3 a.m. We had 1,500 occurs right after Cyber Monday and lasts great and exciting promotions and incen- The shopping dynamic is changing. people waiting at the north doors.” until about two weeks before Christmas. tives for that gap.” “Omni” shopping has taken hold to a Mall of America attracted shoppers with Retailers hope the pause in shopping isn’t The NRF said 154 million consumers greater degree as more consumers bought contests, activities and a prize redemption too deep, triggering steeper markdowns. shopped during the Thanksgiving period or researched products online and picked area/lounge. Shoppers who arrived at 5 Business should pick up again around compared to 151 million shoppers in 2015. them up or purchased them in stores. a.m. received Mall of America gift cards Super Saturday, which this year is Dec. 17, Average spending per person totaled Online research led to higher in-store worth between $10 and $500. Other con- but so could discounting. $289.19, down slightly from $299.60 last conversion rates, even with the lighter cus- sumers received scratch-and-win mystery “The Black Friday period is still mean- year, with an average of $214.13 specifically tomer traffic. While J.C. Penney and Macy’s cards. “We gave away 10,000 cards and ingful, but I don’t know if it’s an indicator for gifts or 74 percent of total purchases. experienced long lines outside some key $200,000 worth of prizes,” Renslow said. of how healthy the business will be for the “It was a strong weekend for retailers, locations, thanks to doorbusters, across “Every card is a winner. There were big next four weeks,” said Larry Mentzer, chief but an even better weekend for consum- the nation there was less urgency to race screen TVs, fishing poles and concert revenue officer for the Century 21 off-price ers who took advantage of some really to stores for deals. The stampedes of years tickets. It really helped generate that ear- chain. “It’s really about the last seven days. incredible deals,” NRF president and ceo past didn’t materialize, and crowds were ly-morning traffic.” It used to come down to the last 10 days.” Matthew Shay said. “In fact, over one-third orderly. Consumers felt they could shop Wal-Mart launched select Cyber Monday “November is critical for selling outer- of shoppers said 100 percent of their pur- later in the day on Nov. 25 and Nov. 26, at deals Sunday in advance of its full menu wear. It has been way too warm,” said one chases were on sale.” their leisure. of deals midnight Sunday. The early wave retail ceo, who requested anonymity. The survey for the weekend, conducted “Results across the retail industry under- included a Samsung 32” LED HDTV for About one million more Americans are by NRF and Prosper Insights, found that score the superiority and vitality of the $147.99, regularly $419.99; and a Shoppies seen shopping this year’s Cyber Monday, 44 percent went online and 40 percent all-channel model,” said Jerry Storch, ceo Girl Gemma Stone Raglan T-shirt with according to the National Retail Federa- shopped in-store. The most popular day of Hudson’s Bay Co., parent of Saks Fifth legging set, $12.97, regularly, $19.97. tion’s Cyber Monday Expectations Survey to shop online was Black Friday, up 1.3 per- Avenue, Lord & Taylor and Hudson’s Bay Kevin Mansell, president and ceo of conducted by Prosper Insights & Analytics cent from last year to 74 percent, followed stores in North America. Based on his own Kohl’s, said the retailer saw “solid” brick- over the weekend. NRF said 122 million by Saturday, 49 percent, Thanksgiving, 36 observations and those of retail tracking and-mortar traffic on Nov. 24 and early Americans plan to shop online on Cyber percent, and Sunday, 34 percent. services, Storch concluded that brick-and- Nov. 25 and “double-digit, record-breaking Monday, up from the 121 million who The survey also found that only nine mortar sales across the industry were in a online sales.” planned to last year. percent of consumers have finished their “statistical dead heat with last year’s levels “We’ve seen excitement around elec- At Target, “We’re expecting a significant holiday shopping, down from 11 percent while online sales grew double digits.” tronics with TVs, game systems, cameras surge of activity on Sunday and Monday. I last year. Twenty-three percent have yet to “The omnichannel promise is kicking in, and items like Apple Watch, which sold out feel great about the advances we’ve made make any dents to their lists, up from 19 particularly for a business like Best Buy,” quickly. In addition, toys and home have from a technology standpoint,” said Brian percent last year. said William Taubman, chief operating performed exceptionally well and active Cornell, chairman and ceo. “Millions of consumers shopped over officer at Taubman Centers. and wellness has been strong. Loyalty is a Asked about the lull post-Cyber Monday, Thanksgiving weekend and reserved a Traffic at the Mall of America on Friday key differentiator for Kohl’s with Yes2You Cornell said, “What we’ve all seen over the portion of their budgets exclusively for was “fantastic,” said Jill Renslow, senior Rewards and Kohl’s Cash, which really last few years is the dumbbell effect. A big Cyber Monday, knowing that there will be vice president of business development helped drive business on Thanksgiving and surge at the beginning of the season and a digital deals that are too good to pass up,” and marketing. “The mall opened at 5 a.m. will be critical for the rest of the holiday season,” he added. Among the weekend surprises, Aéropostale, which has been weak for years, was said to have drawn big crowds with its 70 percent off sale. Macy’s took a hit when its web site experienced dis- ruptions on Black Friday. On Nov. 27, the retailer offered an extra 20 percent off online and free shipping at purchases of at least $25, as well as “Cyber Week specials” for the first time, through Nov. 30. Accord- ing to a Macy’s spokeswoman, “The delay issues were resolved Friday. We were still taking a high volume of orders, but traffic was slowed. All the online promotions currently running were planned.” The $27 billion retailer is closing about 100 stores this year and leaning more on its web site for revenues. Lou Amendola, chief merchandising officer for Brooks Brothers, said his expectations for the weekend were not huge and the results were “maybe a couple of points better” than the trend season-to-date and flat to last year — “Our traffic in our brick- and-mortar stores was down double digits, but half of that was made up online. It’s not a season where people are not spending, but we’ve gotten reports that business is supposed to be up 3.6 percent and we haven’t seen that yet.” He said dress and sport shirts were clear

hotographs by T homas I annaccone by P hotographs Continued on page 7 november 28, 2016 7

Pedestrians outside Lord & Taylor’s window holiday display on Fifth Avenue.

all three days,” said Mentzer of Century 21. Big Shopping Weekend “We saw nice incremental sales gains both Has Good, but in stores and online.” The business got a lift from a promotion offering $30 off $160 Not Great, Turnout spent, and $40 off $200 spent, and from continued from page 6 opening eight of the off-pricer’s 11 stores on Thanksgiving, compared to four last year. “There is holiday creep. Black Friday leaders while tailored clothing, which had has become diluted, but it is still a phe- been the star, lagged a bit, indicating shop- nomenon,” Mentzer said. “People will go pers were gravitating toward gifts. out and wait on line. There is something Bob Mitchell, co-ceo of Mitchells Family cultural about that day for an American of Stores, said the weekend was “mixed,” shopper. We definitely had people waiting with Nov. 25 strong and Nov. 26 slower. to get into our stores.” “Traffic was slightly down and there were Mentzer believes that so far this season, fewer serious buyers, but the average retail promotions were generally planned spend was up.” The top performer was in advance and not reactionary. “I didn’t high-end outerwear, he noted, as colder see retailers giving anything away. The weather drew shoppers to the stores. promotions didn’t seem any deeper or dra- Mitchells does not run promotions or matic. It’s really a market share game on Black Friday specials. “This weekend is Black Friday. No one was super aggressive the smallest of all for us,” over the holiday dumping inventory,” though he acknowl- period but the two extra shopping days this edged that could change later. season are expected to “help December in Shay of NRF insisted that “there’s no a significant manner,” he said. “But it’s way discounting at the expense of margins. All too early to gauge the whole November-De- we’ve seen is a very thoughtful approach cember season at this point, and every year to getting customers out.” business gets later and later.” Charlie O’Shea, lead retail analyst at Ken Giddon, president of Rothmans, a Moody’s who focuses on big-box retailers three-unit men’s chain in the New York and Amazon, noted that most of the 40 to area, said he “beat expectations” last week- 50 percent apparel discounts widely seen end. “I have no idea why. We were no more are planned promotions. Once the promo- promotional than last year, even slightly tions hit 70 percent off, that could either be less. I don’t know if it was post-election an indicator that the retailer didn’t manage where those who were depressed at the the promotions right overall or that one outcome needed some shopping therapy particular item was a fashion miss. and those who were exuberant decided to David Bassuk, managing partner and fulfill their pent-up demand.” co-head of the retail group at consulting He said thanks to recent colder weather, firm Alix Partners, said, “Our clients saw outerwear was particularly strong, people a bit of good news on their early read on were buying suits, and denim alternatives Black Friday, noting that it was fairly pos- such as mélanges and twills from J Brand itive and that the extended sales over the and Citizens of Humanity did well. long weekend has been going very well. “I think Christmas will be pretty strong,” There’s been a big transfer of shopping Giddon said. “I don’t see a lot of ‘woe is patterns to online, but they expected A shopper hails a me,’ so I’m pretty fired up.” that. So far they are positive about the taxi after shopping. hotographs by T homas I annaccone by P hotographs “We were very happy with the results on Continued on page 8 november 28, 2016 8

Big Shopping Weekend Has Good, but Not Great, Turnout continued from page 7

beginning of the holiday [sales] season.” Bassuk also said most of the current promotions are planned, and even though they seem steep, it’s about winning consumer dollars early rather than later when deeper promotions might be required. He said that many consumers would rather wait to get better deals and take the risk of an item selling out. Here and left: At Taubman Centers, “There’s no ques- The scene on tion traffic was up materially. Every single Black Friday. one of our mall managers said traffic was up,” Taubman said. “What you are seeing had a nice average ticket so the basket was now is a picking up of demand after the good,” he said. “They were not just com- hostility of the election has passed us. Sep- ing in and buying the opening price, pro- tember and October were not great.” motional items. They also saw the value in According to Sarah Quinlan, senior the most expensive items and were buying vice president of market insights for the things that they loved.” Consumers MasterCard Advisors, “The consumer has seem “confident” he added, buying across continued to spend. We’ve seen very good all the price bands. spending the entire month of November The Thanksgiving stretch wasn’t all and double-digit growth online Thursday about price promoting. Some shopping and Friday and high-single-digit growth for centers provided new experiences. brick-and-mortar.” Westfield Corp. introduced a robot called She said the shopping was less harried. “Pepper” at Westfield San Francisco Cen- “You didn’t see people sleeping out. They tre and Westfield Valley Fair in Northern feel they can shop how and when they California. Pepper will be tested for a few want. Omnichannel is finally a reality,” months and engages with humans with with people shopping both channels in games and selfies, and soon will help their holiday buying journey. She used shoppers navigate the centers, according the word “patient” to describe the con- to Westfield San Francisco Centre senior sumer mind-set. general manager Leah Heil. “The outlook “The challenge is...Americans have not for this holiday is looking very good right been buying apparel,” Quinlan said. Many now and adding something like Pepper places of work, MasterCard included, do is another layer of an experience for our not require people to dress up anymore, customers,” Heil said. she said. The Americana at Brand and The Grove Among those fashion retailers struggling centers on Black Friday began offering is Neiman Marcus, though last weekend complementary Uber rides to shoppers shoppers embraced ornamentation and spending at least $300 while Irvine Spec- velvet, according to Ken Downing, senior trum Center offered free valet, carousel vice president and fashion director. Marcus in downtown Dallas. “It more than “For our customer, it’s the one time of rides and ice skating admission on Black “Everything embellished, decorated, met our expectations,” store cofounder year that we offer a promotion of that mag- Friday, making for “more of a social event adorned, embroidered and super special and president Brian Bolke said of the holi- nitude so we’ve really been pleased with than ‘I need to go out and get a great deal,” is what the customer is finding most excit- day weekend. “Traditionally, this is never how the customer responded to that,” said said Irvine Co. retail properties chief mar- ing for holiday gift-giving,” he said. “Vel- an important weekend for us because our Cotton On Group USA country manager keting officer Easther Liu. vet in every category for men and women core clientele generally travels, so it was Mark Pan. Irvine Co.’s Fashion Island center in has been popular from the beginning of nice to see new faces.” Fabletics, part of the TechStyle Fashion Newport Beach this month added same the season and is continuing strong over Traffic was in line with expectations Group portfolio of brands that includes day deliveries in Orange County and the holidays.” at Cotton On, which has 130 stores in the JustFab and ShoeDazzle, over the weekend texting for inquiries. “The differentiator is Curiosity and good weather brought U.S. The retailer offered 40 percent off the offered 50 to 70 percent off, on par with the experience…to get a shopper out of the customers into the Forty Five Ten flagship entire store and 50 percent off everything a year earlier, according to president and house, get off their computers and come to that opened Nov. 12 across from Neiman online beginning Nov. 27 for Cyber Monday. general manager Gregg Throgmartin. “We our centers,” she said.

business largest online shopping day of the year.” It’s estimated that 122 million Americans plan to shop online on Cyber Monday, Is Cyber Monday Losing Its Touch? with 28 million of them planning to shop on a mobile device. This is about the same ● While e-commerce has phones for what has traditionally been one found conversion rates on Black Friday amount as last year, according to the traditionally been a focus of the busiest shopping days of the year. were down 34 percent. National Retail Federation’s Cyber Mon- Adobe reports that Friday was the first day Adobe said mobile shopping drove 56 day Expectations Survey conducted by on the Monday after in retail history to drive more than $1 billion percent of visits to retail web sites on Prosper Insights & Analytics. According to Thanksgiving, mobile in mobile revenue, which is 25 percent Black Friday and accounted for 40 percent NRF president and chief executive officer shoppers are jumping more than last year. Amazon reported that of sales, with an average order value of Matthew Shay, consumers who shopped Black Friday was one of the busiest mobile $142 on iPhones and an AOV of $130 on during the weekend reserved a portion of on deals earlier. shopping days on Amazon in the U.S., with Android devices. EBay reported that the their budgets for Cyber Monday, in antici- By Maghan McDowell more mobile app orders than on either gross merchandise bought on mobile pation of digital deals. Cyber Monday or Black Friday last year. compared to desktop purchases was up Lucinda Duncalfe, who is ceo of PayPal said purchases made on mobile 15 percent compared to last year, with hot Monetate, said the shift to online holiday Black Friday is giving Cyber Monday a devices accounted for a third of all total items including watches — an Apple Watch shopping benefits retailers as much as run for its money. payment volume on both Thanksgiving sold every 13 seconds — and Fitbits. consumers. This year, the day after Thanksgiving and Black Friday. “The negative impact on online shop- “Retailers now have the ability to use set records with an estimated $3.34 billion And omnichannel personalization ping we saw following the election has not deep data to enrich and personalize the spent online, which is 21.6 percent more firm Monetate reported that the average been fully made up, but consumers are customer experience, which in turn leads than last year. order values on mobile devices on Black back online and shopping,” said Tamara to greater sales and increased loyalty,” Cyber Monday is expected to slightly Friday increased 22 percent, with mobile Gaffney, who principal analyst and director she said. “Gone are the days of rushing surpass that, with a projected $3.36 billion conversion rates up 38 percent on Black of Adobe Digital Insights. She added that from the Thanksgiving dinner table into in online sales, which would become the Friday and cart abandonment rates falling conversion rates were up nearly a full per- crowded stores in order to stock up on largest online sales day in history, accord- 7 percent. Total e-commerce average order cent across all devices in the evening hours gifts. Clearly, e-commerce has not only ing to data from Adobe. value, according to Monetate, was $171.55. on Black Friday. “Black Friday may have arrived but is now the channel of choice

hotographs by T homas I annaccone by P hotographs Shoppers are increasingly turning to their And although this is up overall, the firm just dethroned Cyber Monday’s position as for holiday buyers.” november 28, 2016 9

business Selfridges Opens First Phase of Accessories Hall ● The multiyear project is slated for completion in 2018.

By Samantha Conti

LONDON — Selfridges tugged open the curtain on phase one of its supersized, David Chipperfield-designed accessories hall on Wednesday, a space that aims to be sustainable and approachable. The new space is part of a 300 million pound, or $372 million, overhaul of the eastern end of the store with the goal of creating the world’s largest accessories hall. When the project is finished in 2018, the accessories hall will span 60,000 square feet, taking up one-third of Selfridges’ ground floor space. The merchandise — chiefly handbags and small leather goods for men and women — will eventually generate 45 percent of the store’s overall accessories sales. (Shoes are located upstairs, while watches and jewelry are sold in the ground floor Wonder Room). The accessories opening is the third major one for Selfridges this year: It has introduced the Body Studio, which taps into the ath-leisure trend, and the Designer Studio, which focuses on items rather than brands. The new accessories space is located in the former high street and contemporary area. Design features include neo-classical columns, terrazzo floors, flashes of marble and glass and warm lighting. The overall space is generous, while entrances to the shops-in-shops, such as Inside Selfridges’ Gucci, are wide and meant to encourage new accessories hall. shoppers to drift in and out. “We didn’t want to make it intimidating — we wanted it to be an accessible, enjoyable, social place that was also about sustainability,” Sebastian Manes, the store’s buying and merchandising director, said during a walk-through. Selfridges asked brands to work organic, sustainable materials into shop designs. The retailer said it wanted to create an atmosphere where customers felt they were investing in something special rather than snapping up a commodity. Loewe has installed ancient stone cylinders from Spain, which it’s using as displays for its multicolored bags, while Chanel has created glass, museum-like entrance on Duke Street, also houses cases for a series of dramatic sculptures the only Chrome Hearts shops-in-shop made from wickerlike branches. in Europe: The space has double-fronted The new hall also has a big round bar windows that face Duke Street, and the called The Fount, which serves different furniture — including the silver inlays on types of water and water infusions — as the floor — have been made and embel- well as soft drinks and cocktails. It has a lished by hand, according to Manes. dedicated mixologist known as Mr Lyan, Selfridges also asked the brands to have and is open all day. The brands that skirt some fun with the displays and assort- the bar were asked to riff on the theme of ments: The Gucci space has an elegant water for their shop fits. black-and-white mosaic floor adorned Stella McCartney used recycled fishing with the brand’s motifs — snakes, swirls line as part of her display, while Anya and bugs. Wallets and other small acces- Hindmarch has made shelves from sories are dotted across display walls aqua-colored lava (a giant lava lamp will thanks to removable magnets tucked soon be installed). Jimmy Choo’s display inside them. cases have rounded edges meant to recall Phase two is set to open in November droplets of water. 2017 and will involve the refurbishment of Manes said the store’s commitment the old ground floor accessories hall: The to sustainability also stretched to the brands that are currently there will either adjacencies. There’s a big emphasis on remain in place while the work is being British brands, he said, with Burberry and done, or move temporarily to the new, Mulberry in key positions, near Chanel, phase one accessories space. Celine and Chloe. It’s not just the store interiors that are Chaos, the London-based collection getting a makeover. By 2018, Chipperfield of jewelry and small accessories started will have redone the entire facade on Duke by Charlotte Stockdale and Katie Lyall, Street, creating a triple-height entrance sits alongside the big luxury brands. One into the accessories hall. He’s also plan- long wall will be dedicated to a series of ning to redesign the store’s main entrance pop-ups, the first of which features Atelier on Oxford Street. cuts into the building on Duke Street and through the smaller Oxford Street entrance Swarovski accessories and home ware. Other structural changes include doing uniting the buildings under one facade. (the one nearest to Duke St.) will be able to

hotographs by James M ason James by P hotographs The new area, which has its own away with the loading bay that currently By 2018, visitors entering the store take in the entire accessories hall. november 28, 2016 10

business Does Snap Inc Have Staying Power? ● The parent company of the Snapchat-parent Snap Inc. started, but based on what we’ve seen so social media platform could is looking to move on to far, the kind of hockey stick growth, the the next stage with an IPO. data at their disposal and interesting ad hit the public market with a opportunities, we like their chances, at $25 billion valuation. least in the near term.” Jon Bucci, ceo of Veri, which connects By Evan Clark influencers with their fans, said Snap’s venture capital backers are going to want With Snap Inc.’s IPO more a matter of to pull their money out eventually, making when than if, the real question is whether an IPO a sure thing. Snapchat’s parent company will thrive like “The timing is quite optimal,” Bucci Facebook or wither like Twitter under the said. “It has been a slow year for IPOs, glare of the public markets. the newly concluded presidential race Snap is said to have already confiden- has resulted in an optimistic Wall Street, tially filed paperwork for an initial public and, Snapchat remains the heavy favor- offering, which is expected to ultimately ite for advertising dollars targeting 13- to pin the company with a valuation of 24-year-olds.” as much as $25 billion — nearly twice Bucci said Snapchat has plenty of room Twitter’s $12.9 billion market cap, but to grow with “new markets to conquer still a long ways from Facebook’s value of each other. offer, particularly because they can not as most users are North American, new $357.2 billion. But chief executive officer Evan Spie- only reach their customers, but find out possible demographics as users are mostly Whether Snap can grow to not just be the gel has proven to be canny, for instance more about them in the process. under 25 years of age, and, novel revenue buzzy new name, but a digital giant, will turning down Facebook’s Mark Zucker- Einstein said Snap and its sponsored streams to explore as it has only really depend on just how much the company can berg’s offer reportedly buy Snapchat for $3 geo-filters drive relevant experiences that tapped into advertising dollars.” offer its users and advertisers and if it can billion not long after its founding. can be tagged to a specific location and The offering should give Snap whatever develop the corporate chops necessary to Not bad for a twentysomething ceo who understood through data. money it needs to try to sustain its expan- flourish under a pubic company’s scrutiny. finds himself atop an increasingly import- The challenge now is for the company sion, but Bucci noted, “This is easier said The bet is that Snapchat has a chance ant promotional outlet for fashion brands. to be able to roll out that kind of offering than done. given how far it’s come and how quickly — “They’re looking much more like Face- at scale. “We have all witnessed Twitter’s failure its ad business hit with full force this year book than Twitter,” said Nick Einstein, And Einstein said Snap is also nudging to appeal internationally and Vine’s and is projected to drive $360 million in vice president of research for marketing into other areas, for instance, launching inability to successfully monetize,” he revenue for 2016 and $1 billion next year. technology firm The Relevancy Group. Spectacles, sunglasses that take videos. said. “Nevertheless, IPOs in social media Key to the equation is Snapchat’s ability “Snapchat wasn’t around four years ago A broader approach was signaled with and messaging platforms provide a fresh to know just who is seeing those ads and and it’s going to be [valued at] $25 billion a name change in September — cutting chance to figure out how to turn such where they are when they get the message. and specifically because the advertising Snapchat down to Snap. companies into profitable corporations. It Even so, making the ultra-big time is experiences are engaging. Display ads, “They are certainly looking to be wider, is definitely an exciting proposition and it a tall order for a company that rose to big diminishing returns, it’s tough to get they’re looking to expand,” Einstein said. seems safe to predict that investors will be prominence as a way for teenagers to send people clicking through.” “They just started generating revenues this quick to jump at the opportunity to own a racy, but quickly disappearing pictures to Brands like what the platform has to year….They are just a little baby getting piece of Snapchat.”

business is not going to be that big, compared to AR. I’m not saying it’s not important, it is important,” Cook said at the Utah Tech Snapchat Ventures Into Eyewear Tour. He added that he’s betting on AR because few people think it’s acceptable ● “Snapbots” have begun Snap’s Snapbot to be tethered to a computer or to be selling connected sunglasses is a Spectacles enclosed in something, as in a VR headset. vending machine. It is one of Silicon Valley’s worst-kept called Spectacles. secrets that Apple has been hiring engi- neers who are likely working on a form of By Maghan McDowell smart glasses. Spectacles are a far cry from Google’s The wearable tech war has moved on to techie-looking, $1,500 iteration. In keeping eyewear as augmented and virtual reality with Snap’s playful, Millennial-friendly start to gain more traction. ethos, Spectacles are positioned as a $130 Snapchat is the latest company to novelty. They come in three colors, and introduce techie glasses, but Silicon Valley customers can only buy a limited quantity, bigwigs Facebook and Apple are also keen but they are already reselling on eBay for on giving users a new way to see the world. four times that much. Snapchat parent Snap Inc. recently The secretive aspect, which extends to began deploying “Snapbots” — vending the number of products available, fuels machines that sell its connected sun- customer anticipation and results in glasses, called Spectacles — in surprise considerable social media hype, while the locations throughout the U.S., including a photo-worthy locations provide worthy New York pop-up store that garnered long backdrops for Snapchatters’ first shared lines in freezing temperatures. Spectacles content. With its first physical product, Snap is uncomfortable, and really poisoned Glass’ Augmented reality and virtual reality, Temporary Snapbot “landings” include working hard to steer clear of the pitfalls reputation,” Gownder said. and thus eyewear devices, have become a Venice, Big Sur and the Santa Monica Pier that ultimately doomed Google Glass. Spectacles have a video camera that primary thrust for tech companies. “This in California; Catoosa, Okla., and the Grand “Snap is employing a gradual, viral, grass- records circular videos and can be added to is a big game, because smart glasses could Canyon. Each vending machine is there roots approach to both seed Spectacles in Snapchat using Bluetooth or Wi-Fi. In addi- someday in the future — five years? — rival for about 24 hours, although the New York the minds of its target audience while also tion to being sunglasses, they have lights smartphones,” Gownder said. store will be open through New Year’s Eve. simultaneously getting an early read on that indicate when they are recording. In October, Facebook’s Mark Zuckerberg Apple would be doing something very issues like privacy,” said Forrester analyst They also are more of a novelty — for now. demonstrated the use of AR and VR using different, likely in the form of augmented J.P. Gownder. “A slower rollout gives the “Smart glasses can superimpose digital the company’s Oculus headset at a live or mixed reality smart glasses, such as device more time to establish an identity — information over the user’s field of view, demonstration, and Google introduced a what Microsoft HoloLens or Magic Leap which Snap will shepherd carefully.” augmenting the world with images and new VR headset called Daydream View. offer, Gownder said. Privacy was a major concern that digital information,” Gownder said. So far, Apple’s chief executive Tim Cook said Cook said that indeed, AR would take undermined Google Glass in the eyes of Spectacles are just a pair of glasses with this fall that he was banking on aug- a while to take off, due to technology the consumer, as wearers could surrep- a video camera — but that could change. mented reality, which adds a digital image challenges there. “But it will happen in a titiously record people, and the devices Snapchat earlier this month, added “World to a user’s field of vision (while virtual big way, and we will wonder when it does, were banned from some businesses. “The Lenses” that use AR to add images to the reality offers and view of an entirely simu- how we ever lived without it. Like we perception that someone is recording outward-facing camera (in the vein of lated reality). wonder how we lived without our phone

RE X/ S hutterstock N ewscast/ by S napchat IPO photograph me in public places made a lot of people Pokemon), rather than just selfies. “AR will become really big. VR I think today,” he said. november 28, 2016 11

beauty Sponsored Lenses that were available to users during the day of launch. The brand reportedly spent about half a million dollars on its efforts with the Benefit Challenges ephemeral messaging platform, which included Chain Geofilters in addition to the Sponsored Lenses, where a wand appeared to “magically transform” a user’s eyebrows. Results from a Millward Brown Anastasia for Its Crown Lift Study showed that the campaign had ● This year’s success of Benefit Cosmetics’ assortment 78 million impressions. of eyebrow products. In 24 hours, the overall campaign got Benefit’s eyebrow products 36 million views, and users played with confirms digital and social the Lenses 38 million times, spending an media drive launches. average of 26 seconds engaging with the product, according to Snapchat. Addition- By Rachel Strugatz ally, the partnership generated an 18-point lift in brand favorability — 4.3 times higher It looks like Benefit Cosmetics is surpass- than the benchmark — as well as an 18 per- ing Anastasia as the top spot in the brow cent lift in purchase intent, which is seven category, thanks to social media and a slew times greater than the mobile norm. of new products. Frusci also spoke to a “pulsed” Face- The LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuit- book approach started with a brow refer- ton-owned brand is getting a bang for its ral program in early June that gave access buck this year with a collection of eye- to three of the new products to fans who brow-centric products that came out ear- referred friends to benefitcosmetics.com. lier in June — and industry estimates proj- Tens of thousands of units intended for a ect this range alone could soon become a Frusci declined to give sales figures to Enhancer, a $24 wand that gives subtle 10-day initiative ran out in just three days. multi-hundred-million-dollar business. date or projections for the new eyebrow brow-enhancing highlights. The next phase, a four-week brow The success of this launch nailed down offering, which includes nine core prod- While Benefit’s success here could be campaign that kicked off on June 24, the new order: digital and social media ucts, but a source with knowledge of the attributed to its multipronged launch strat- drove a 10-point lift in purchase intent for drive launches. company said Benefit is on track to surpass egy that combined paid digital ads, social Benefit, said Karin Tracy, Facebook’s head A digital influencer event held in Las the target of $100 million in retail sales in media, influencers, in-store partnerships of industry, beauty, luxury and retail (this Vegas this spring started to generate buzz the first six months, with the potential to and traditional print ads — timing can’t be number is reportedly 10 times the average six weeks before any product even went on reach nearly a quarter of a billion dollars ignored. Brows are hotter than ever — and lift of one point). sale, and campaigns on both Facebook and in sales during its first year. The brand’s the more prominent the better. The campaign included two eyebrow Snapchat far surpassed industry bench- brow category is said to be growing 30 to The company quoted NPD Group transformation videos and then retargeted marks, according to Nicole Frusci, senior 40 percent year over year and is carried at figures, which named Benefit the num- video viewers using six different mixed vice president, U.S. marketing, at Benefit. Sephora, Ulta Beauty, select Macy’s, Bene- ber-one brow brand worldwide from July media carousels. The carousels were tai- Also instrumental were Google search ads, fit’s own boutiques and its e-commerce site through September of this year (based lored to the target demographic from the a series of native and display advertising at benefitcosmetics.com. on estimated total global prestige brow type of model (age) to brow-related issues, partnerships with PopSugar and Refin- Frusci said Benefit, which has 1,850 product retail sales). NPD also reported said Tracy, who noted that building brand ery29, as well cross promotion online from brow bars and 4,000 aestheticians earlier this month that brows and lips were awareness — and not driving users to the participating retailers, she said. worldwide in 39 markets, took an existing among the fastest-growing makeup catego- e-commerce site — was the goal of the “We knew we were announcing [the five-product assortment and gave it a ries during the third quarter of this year. campaign. But despite this, traffic to bene- launch] early with the big influencer trip, reboot. Two items — Speed Brow and Brow related items saw a 37 percent bump fitcosmetics.com was three times higher in but also knew we had to sustain excitement Instant Brow pencil — were retired, in sales, driven by innovation. July than it had been all year, Frusci said. and buzz knowing that we weren’t going to another three were repackaged and Digital research firm L2 released a And finally, print, while it had its place have the collection for sale until late June. reformulated and six new products were report in early November, “Brow Wars: in the marketing plan, is clearly on the That’s a really long time to keep people introduced. They include: Browvo, a $28 The Battle for Market Share in an Emerging back-burner. Although Frusci said the excited, especially in a time when people conditioning eyebrow primer; Goof Proof Category,” that crowned Benefit and Anas- brand did some print advertising, she want instant gratification,” Frusci said, not- Eyebrow Pencil, a $24 “easy” brow-filling tasia Beverly Hills as the market leaders maintained that the company hasn’t ing that 90 influencers from more than 20 and shaping pencil; Precisely, My Brow online in this fast growing category. Benefit “touched traditional advertising in a very markets published 848 posts between May Eyebrow Pencil, a $24 ultra-fine defin- is currently the most searched brand for long time.” Ads appeared in the September 13 and June 24 — garnering a total of 387 ing pencil; Ka-Brow Eyebrow Cream-gel eyebrow related inquiries on both Sephora and October books of Allure, Marie Claire million impressions during this period. For Color, a $24 cream-gel brow color with a and Ulta’s web sites, according to L2. and Elle in an attempt to “hit different her, sustaining that momentum through brush; Ready, Set, Brow Clear Brow gel, But when asked which initiative yielded segments that we don’t normally touch,” the summer and fall, and now as the brand a $24 invisible shaping and setting gel the biggest return on investment, Frusci including a more mature customer whose enters the holiday season, is paramount. for brows, and 3-D Browtones Eyebrow was quick to point to the Snapchat and the brows might start to thin or fall out.

fashion 20th century and employing Art Deco materials. Floors and walls are paved in white statuary marble and black silk mar- Saint Laurent Sets Second Miami Unit ble, while fixtures come in polished brass, glass, leather and nickel-plated brass. ● The boutique in Miami Design brand momentum — makes it an ideal time Clothing rails descend from the ceiling. District stocks exclusive items to open this new boutique. Additionally, YSL declined to indicate the size of the by new creative director we have witnessed the strategic impact unit. that Miami has on our quickly developing Bellettini noted that the store concept Anthony Vaccarello. business in South America.” evolves constantly based on the “surround- The new Miami unit brings to 31 the ing environment, preexisting architecture, By Miles Socha number of stores Saint Laurent operates and geographic location.” in the Americas region, its second-largest She described the Miami Design District PARIS — Fast-growing Saint Laurent is market after Europe. boutique as “streamlined,” and accen- doubling up in Miami. The brand counts 23 stores in the U.S., tuated with concrete columns by Eric The French fashion house, already pres- five in Mexico, two in Canada and one in Slayton and African-inspired seating. ent at Bal Harbour Shops, is today opening Brazil. “We also incorporated vintage furniture a two-level unit in the Miami Design Saint Laurent plans to keep investing in in order to enhance the atmosphere in District on the eve of Art Basel Miami, the Americas region “as it represents a key The Saint Laurent each room. We utilized eclectic styles and which attracts scores of big spenders — and opportunity in all categories and chan- store in the Miami combined different eras and materials — partiers — every December. nels,” Bellettini said. Design District. from Pierre Jeanneret to Pierre Chareau,” “The south Florida market represents Boston and Las Vegas are among cities Bellettini said, referring to Swiss and a key opportunity for the brand and our slated to get Saint Laurent boutiques in Anthony Vaccarello, who succeeded Hedi French architects known for their striking business in the Americas region,” said 2017, she added. Slimane as creative director last April and furniture designs. Francesca Bellettini, chief executive officer The new Miami unit is to showcase Saint showed his first women’s collection on the In the third quarter, revenues at Saint of Yves Saint Laurent. “We have experi- Laurent’s full range of products including Paris runway last September for the spring Laurent were up 33.9 percent thanks to its enced consistent, strong growth over the ready-to-wear, leather goods, shoes, sun- 2017 season. permanent collections and good response last few years and believe that the recent glasses and jewelry for men and women. The boutique follows the existing Saint to new handbag models such as the Sunset development within the Miami Design These include some limited edition items Laurent décor template, referencing the Monogram. Retail sales were up 34 percent District — combined with our current from the first Saint Laurent collection by French Modernist movement of the early and wholesale revenues gained 36 percent. november 28, 2016 12

fashion monogram print adorned a sweater or the back of a cape. “Our main customers fall [between the ages of 20 and 35],” said Brian Yiu, chief executive officer of Fila China and Hong Jason Wu, Fila Work on Kong. “We wanted to create a collection that would reflect their lifestyle, something they could purchase to work out in but also wear in their everyday life.” Third Asia-Only Collection Wu was given full design freedom in drafting the line, with technical support ● The youthful, vintage-inspired The Fila and Jason Wu from the athletic wear giant in selecting event at Pace Beijing, and working with sports fabric and textiles. line hits stores in mainland 798 Art District. “We worked very well with Jason,” said China, Hong Kong and Macau Yiu, who declined to discuss sales or Fila’s next month. expansion plans. “And hope to roll out more joint projects in the future, although By Marianna Cerini I can’t say more than that for now.” With the sportswear market in China The ath-leisure phenomenon is a global expected to surpass the luxury sector and one. But Jason Wu’s collaboration with Fila grow to $43.1 billion by 2020 from $25.3 — now in its third season — is very much a billion in 2015, it’s no wonder Yiu wishes region-specific project. to continue the collaboration. Unlike similar designer-sports brand Chinese consumers have started embrac- mash-ups, such as Adidas Originals by ing wellness and healthy lifestyles and they Alexander Wang or Louis Vuitton’s Kim are spending their money accordingly. Jones for NikeLab, this collaboration is “We haven’t suffered at all from the destined exclusively for the Asian market, economic slowdown,” Yiu said. “Workout specifically mainland China, Hong Kong clothes have become wardrobe staples, and Macau. And Wu himself is taking and synonymous with comfort. People great pains to keep things local — he even don’t want to make sacrifices on that. declined to speak to international press at What puts us in a very strong position a Beijing runway show of the line’s spring in the market is that while other sports collection on Nov. 24. The show, which brands offer mainly gym clothes, Fila has took place at the Pace Gallery of the 798 become a one-stop label for casual attire.” Art Zone, drew actress Zhang Li. The Jason Wu x Fila line, which hits Keeping with the aesthetics of the two stores in Asia next month, costs about 30 previous seasons, the designer presented percent more than Fila’s regular line but 67 looks inspired by the sports trends Yiu is confident it will sell well. and classic Fila models of the Sixties and “The past two seasons were incredibly Seventies — albeit with a modern, youth- defined most of the crewnecks, track- There were plenty of nods to vintage Fila well received, and it’ll be the same for this ful twist. Asymmetrical cuts, floral prints suits, polo dresses and do-anything-in styles of the past, from the iconic tennis one. With Jason’s name behind it, why and geometric, color-blocked patterns clothes that walked down the runway. dress to pool slippers. The occasional JW wouldn’t it?” he said.

men’s main line, where it sells for between $1,800 and $2,500. For the $998 version produced for Banana Republic, “we used a beautiful charcoal herringbone with a Greg Lauren, Banana Republic pigment-dyed canvas with grommets,” he said. “I think we moved it out of the hard- core inaccessible category.” Partner for Men’s Collection Lauren also paid homage to twill, which has played a big role in Banana Republic’s ● The designer and retailer “a true balance between an artistic, history. Devising a three-day wardrobe strike a balance between handmade approach and something that is intended for a customer who packs production-friendly.” everything he needs for adventures in the an artistic approach and a To be candid, “that is what L.A. has mountains, on the beach and at a black-tie production-friendly line been struggling to figure out,” he said. gala in one bag, he stonewashed a black made in the U.S. “L.A. is a pocket of denim and T-shirts. version of the utilitarian fabric and cut it Now we have this creative voice that is into the $898 tuxedo jacket and matching By Khanh T.L. Tran emerging. Most of us have figured out how $598 pants. “We made garments for a guy to create in-house and in our own studio that is out there ready for something a Banana Republic is following Greg Lau- these very specific brand identities.” little different,” he said. ren down the path of artisanally crafted, Lauren has shopped Banana Republic in Anderson liked that Lauren’s rough-and- domestically sewn fashion for its new the past, and he grew up wearing apparel tumble tuxedo contrasts the style Banana men’s collaboration. from Ralph Lauren, who’s his uncle. He Republic has offered in the past. “It’s Lauren, who’s known for designing takes pride in making all the clothes he known to be very polished and sometimes clothes that meld Old World tailoring with wears now. But like other emerging design- uptight. We broke that down to a sports- resourcefulness in incorporating vintage ers based in the City of Angels, he faces a wear point of view,” he said. fabrics at his namesake Los Angeles-based moment of reckoning: How does he scale a The elevated prices and limited supply label, is offering 16 pieces that have under- business without compromising his integ- filter the number of Banana Republic’s gone multiple washings and hand-done rity? The yearlong process of working with stores that have been designated to carry techniques in local factories. In a partner- Banana Republic toward the Dec. 6 release the collection. The retailer is offering ship with the Council of Fashion Designers of the collection provided some answers. the $178 black thermal shirts, $298 light of America, Gap Inc.’s Banana Republic is A look from From the onset, Lauren took care not to blue linen tuxedo shirts, $548 gray wool embarking on the new capsule collection Greg Lauren’s collaboration water down his designs. “I don’t want to lounge pants and $3,000 black cashmere to follow a women’s project designed with with Banana Republic. take my most artisanal pieces and dilute overcoats at its locations in SoHo and the Timo Weiland last March. them to make them less expensive,” he Flatiron District in New York, and also “We want to challenge our customers, the CFDA’s proposition from Banana Repub- said. “That was not the goal. With too at stores in the Grove in Los Angeles and the ones that are forward thinking,” said lic was: “Wow — that’s interesting. Are you many designers, when they do a diffusion on the Third Street Promenade in Santa Michael Anderson, the retailer’s senior sure they really want to work with me?” line or a secondary line, you can tell when Monica, Calif. vice president of design. Having observed Banana Republic did. Hoping to reverse the most creative thing was diluted down Some prices are triple Banana Repub-

acon Lauren’s emergence in the industry, he a 10 percent drop in comparable sales at to less expensive fabric. We wanted to lic’s usual price points, but Anderson isn’t added, “What really interested me in him its worldwide stores that were open for at maintain the quality of the pieces.” concerned with potential sticker shock. is: His reference points in his collection are least a year in 2015, the retailer flexed its Perhaps the biggest challenge was the “You’re paying more for this manufac- very similar to our reference points.” sourcing clout to provide Scottish tweed, adaptation of his signature jacket, named turing and the attention to details. We Fond of whimsical details, such as insert- Italian cashmere and twill it designed in Oliver, to become the MVP of the collab- think it’s worth it,” he said. Besides, some ing a red whipstitch on a denim jacket as Asia exclusively for its own use. With each oration. Sewn from vintage fabrics, the things can’t be measured in numbers. “It it’s being slipped into a box for shipping, taking a step toward the middle, Banana jacket with a peak lapel and built-in vest shines a different light on both our brand ave T D ave by u/ F ila photograph

W Lauren recalled that his initial response to Republic and Lauren struck, in his words, epitomizes dandy dressing in Lauren’s and Greg’s.” november 28, 2016 13

London’s Design Museum Gets New Home The museum opened to the public on Nov. 24, with a permanent exhibition called “Designer Maker User.”

The new Design Museum in London. LONDON — London's Design Mu- is Paul Smith," and "Women He added that his brief is seum has a new home designed Fashion Power," and has show- "always to try to make a building The Designer Maker User exhibit. by John Pawson in the former cased the works of Paul Smith, for people, as well as objects." Commonwealth Institute in Zaha Hadid and Frank Gehry. The Pawson worked with OMA, Rein- meant to have a positive impact," Holland Park; it's triple the size of Shad Thames venue closed five er de Graaf, Allies and Morrison said Nadja Swarovski, member of the old space on the Thames and months ago. and Arupon on the Sixties struc- the Swarovski executive board. filled with a variety of 20th-cen- The new museum is located ture, and said the job was a jigsaw "We feel that education is the tury objects including a Burberry 224-238 Kensington High Street, in puzzle, due to the restrictions on solution for so many issues, and trenchcoat, Christian Louboutin an historic Sixties building. It spans the Grade-II listed site. The ground that some of the solutions are in Pigalle heels and punk creations 108,000 square feet, with two floor resembles the interconnect- design, which (encourages) prob- by Vivienne Westwood. gallery spaces dedicated to tem- ed setup of the Guggenheim in lem solving. The art world, design Two years behind schedule, the porary shows, the free "Designer New York — but with sharp angles. and fashion industries might museum opened to the public on Maker User" showcase and the Visitors can gaze upward at seem intimidating to the outside Nov. 24, with a permanent exhibi- Swarovski Foundation Center for the original angular roof and see world, but all of these industries tion called "Designer Maker User," Learning. It also houses the Bakala all the floors from the main atrium. are there to cater to the general that includes more than 1,000 auditorium, the Sackler Library Interiors feature Italian public, so let’s open these doors." items of contemporary design and a designers-in-residence terrazzo and Dinesen blond oak Conran said the opening of the from the 20th century. A digital dis- studio. There is also a shop café, flooring and wall panels. An oak new venue was an emotional time play will allow visitors to view and restaurant and members’ area, staircase that connects the cen- for him. "I was almost in a flood of OMA/AMO’s The engage with various fashions of offering views over Holland Park. tral ground-floor atrium with the tears. I think one of the things that Pan-European Living Room. the decade. The first show, "Fear "This is my first public building, upper levels features bench-style John Pawson has achieved is a and Love: Reactions to a Complex and it’s the most complex project leather seating. lovely feeling of quality around the it as an architectural archive. Union member countries. World," will focus on how design is that we’ve done," said Pawson, The Swarovski Foundation space that you don’t find in many "Fear and Love: Reactions The Beazley Designs of the tied to commerce and culture. who has created minimalist store Centre for Learning and the Sack- British buildings." Conran added to a Complex World," will open Year award and exhibition, will Founded in 1989 by Sir Terence designs for designers including ler Library and Archive are located that he is still fond of the former with the museum next week. The also open next week and includes Conran, the museum focuses Calvin Klein and Christopher upstairs. The Swarovski center is Shad Thames space, which show includes Hussein Cha- more than 70 designs, some of on modern design and architec- Kane. "It’s not the biggest, or the comprised of five learning areas had previously been a banana layan’s range of wearable emo- them fashion from designers ture. The original venue on Shad most expensive. It’s just been and will offer programs, events warehouse. It was sold to the late tion-detecting tech items and Craig Green, Agi and Sam and Thames in east London was host very complex to do with all sorts and activities for schools, adult Zaha Hadid's architecture firm, OMA’s The Pan-European Living Richard Malone. The awards will to more than 100 shows, including of people. I think architecture is a learners and design professionals. and Conran noted that the firm Room, an installation featuring be announced on Jan. 26. the blockbuster "Hello, My Name lot about communication." "This center is a platform will pursue her original idea to use creations from 28 European — Lorelei Marfil Lucius on Fashion, Music and ‘Pulling Teeth’ The group’s frontwomen are known for rocking matching hairstyles along with colorful capes or kimonos.

Musical artists have long un- whittled them down to create a derstood the power of costume. ride or a journey for our listeners. Presenting a unified look can It’s a good opportunity now, after enhance sonic harmony, too, as we’ve been touring for almost a The Beatles and The Supremes year, to release something new knew, as did the many bands that for the holidays. We’re proud of followed after them. those songs,” Laessig said. Among the most talented and They are equally enthusiastic eye-catching acts today is Lucius, about their custom-made capes, fronted by vocalists Jess Wolfe by Austin-based designer Kathie and Holly Laessig, who are known Seavers of Ft. Lonesome. The for their onstage mirror imag- ones pictured here are based ing — rocking matching, auburn on an antique kimono motif that bobs, or platinum top knots, along Wolfe found. with colorful capes or kimonos. “We create look books all the The women, both 31, formed the time and we brought [Seavers] a band in 2005 while students at few different ones. Then she does Berklee College of Music; six her thing,” Wolfe said. The pair years later musician Dan Molad also works with Brooklyn-based joined, followed by Peter Lalish. costume designer Christian Joy, This year, the band relocated to who has created pieces for Karen Los Angeles from Brooklyn. O and Alabama Shakes. “We started off being inspired “We are always looking to by a lot of artists with a very collaborate so who knows what The cover of Lucius’ new strong visual representation of the next record will bring about, record, “Pulling Teeth.” the music — Bowie, Prince, Little “ Laessig said. One may be able Richard. A lot of artists that we for a moment, there’s something terial,” said Wolfe. While they’ve to glean a few hints from their im Jenkins; Lucius portrait by D an operalski by portrait im Jenkins; Lucius grew up listening to had a very exciting about that.” been playing the title track on Instagram account, which she strong aesthetic,” Wolfe said. Laessig has often compared their recently wrapped tour (they says is the social media platform “I think it was a way to coat our their sartorial M.O. to that of a also opened for Tegan and Sara that they enjoy most. discomfort on stage. We didn’t choir, presenting a single image and Roger Waters), the other “We’re a little antiquated. We really know how to be up there; that reflects multiple voices sing- song, “The Punisher,” hasn’t yet get comfortable in one zone, then it was a little difficult to get into ing as one. Fans can hear that been performed live. there’s a whole new invention. We a zone and we were looking for in two of their newest singles, “We created those songs are still not in on the Snapchat something more exciting. If you released Nov. 25 on a 10-inch for potential record contenders frenzy. By the time we are, it will Jess Wolfe and Holly can create a landscape for your- record titled “Pulling Teeth.” [their second album 'Good Grief' be something else,” she said. Laessig of Lucius. useum photographs by T by M useum photographs D esign self and your audience to live in “It’s perfect post-election ma- came out earlier this year], but we — Marcy Medina men’s wear MARCH 21 summit BROOKLYN 1 HOTEL BROOKLYN BRIDGE • OFFICIAL VENUE PARTNER

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Fashion Scoops

point of H&M’s 2016 holiday marketing marking the end of the three-year The campaign, which debuts today. partnership with the brand. That doesn’t The accompanying fashion campaign mean that her career as a designer is Midnight Hour shots feature models such as Alek Wek over. Far from it: She plans to launch her Milan-based contemporary label MSGM and Ashley Graham modeling party and own stand-alone brand. is preparing to launch its first women’s cold-weather looks. “I’ve done so much for this brand, and capsule collection dedicated to special H&M has been going for names with we’ve done so much together, that we occasions and after-dark events. big social media reach for its latest ad couldn’t just leave it like that,” said Ora, Called “MSGM p.m.,” the season-less campaigns. In October, the firm revealed who spent the summer filming as the collection includes about 50 pieces meant Chinese celebrity power couple Fan Bing- new host of “America’s Next Top Model.” to fuse the brand’s feminine attitude bing and Li Chen as the new faces of its It’s the end of my designing journey with infused with a playful and ironic sensibility. Chinese New Year campaign, while earlier Adidas as a brand, but it’s the beginning “The goal was to create a no-season this fall, the retailer united the unlikely pair of something else, the beginning of our collection that would work for different of David Beckham with comedian Kevin new relationship. I’ve been working with kinds of occasions, from a cocktail to Hart for the second time for a video about Adidas for three years, and I have learned a special event, all year round,” said the pair in a tour bus on their way to Las a lot about them and about branding, MSGM founder and creative director Vegas in hopes of bringing the fictional “I, and the collaboration has led me to great Massimo Giorgetti. Beckham: The Musical” to life. ventures coming in the New Year.” “Also, I wanted to bring back some of The Swedish fast-fashion retailer Ora said she plans to launch her own la- the codes I developed in my first collec- Hennes & Mauritz is also amidst an in- bel in the new year, in all likelihood working Backstage at tions for the brand, which is now more fo- ternational expansion. Earlier this month, in some capacity with Adidas. “This collab- MSGM spring 2017. cused on a streetwear-oriented aesthetic.” H&M said it would open its first stores oration has expanded my personal brand. Giorgetti reworked some of MSGM’s in the country of Georgia next year, in It’s stretched my name out into countries I witch. It’s fantasy meets greed. I run a Industry and Culture and Communica- themes of past collections: He designed a addition to four to five new markets in never even knew I could be in so, you know, town, she runs a forest; I’m all about the tion, the first edition of the Forum de la duchesse bustier dress featuring an acid 2017, including Colombia, Iceland and so I’m forever grateful for that,” she said. power. I want lots of power — and every- Mode, or Fashion Forum, is set for Dec. floral print, and asymmetrical ruching, as Kazakhstan. — SOPHIA CHABBOTT “We’ve already been working on my new thing that comes into this city in Italy 6. The daylong inaugural event will fea- well as tulle frocks with plunging necklines line, doing bits over the last few years, but — but I’m not getting it, because of these ture a series of round-table discussions and embroidered trousers in destroyed it takes a few months to build it up properly, kids that have a lot of control.” with experts from fashion, finance and denim. The range also includes fluid dress- One Door probably about another year.” Among Ora’s guests were stylist Kyle government, and will end with work- es with big asymmetrical ruching, lace Until then, Ora, who will appear in the De’Volle, Henry Holland, Noel Gallagher, shops to allow attendees to meet and blouses and a one-shoulder sweatshirt next “Fifty Shades of Grey” film, is filming Caroline Flack, Mabel McVey and British make contacts. with a ruffle embroidered with crystals. Closes “Wonderwell” in Italy. “This is my first R&B singer Raye, who has penned tracks Culture and communication minister — ALESSANDRA TURRA Rita Ora hosted a dinner at the Ivy proper lead role, and I play alongside for Ora in the past and cowrote the lyrics Audrey Azoulay is to open the event, Chelsea Garden in London to celebrate Carrie Fisher, who is incredible,” she said. for Charlie XCX’s latest single, “After the which is set to feature presentations by her 15th and final collection for Adidas, “I play a bad witch and Carrie is the good After Party.” The rising star, signed to Experienced Capital Partners founder All Aboard Polydor, has an album on the way and Frédéric Biousse and Hermès Inter- Calling all fans of “The Darjeeling Lim- said she is most inspired when riding on national executive vice president of ited” — and pretty much any Wes Ander- public transport. manufacturing and equity investments son-Adrien Brody film. “I find that the train is the best place to Guillaume de Seynes. The cult-movie director-actor duo who come up with lyrics, when you’ve just got Supported by the Fédération Française also worked together on “The Grand Bu- time to think,” Raye said. “I’ll just sit there de la Couture, du Prêt-à-Porter des dapest Hotel” and “Fantastic Mr. Fox,” is and sing to myself in front of strangers. I Couturiers et des Créateurs de Mode back, channeling the critically acclaimed have no space on my phone left, not be- and the Fédération Française du Prêt à 2007 film that takes place on a fantas- cause of photos or whatever, but because Porter Féminin, the event takes place at tical old train for a new short film from it’s completely full of voice notes. the Gaité Lyrique cultural center and is H&M. The nearly four-minute video is set — JULIA NEEL free to attend, although pre-registration on a magical train ride with Brody playing is necessary. The event was one of the the train’s conductor. After a winter bliz- recommendations of socialist politician zard delays the train, all the passengers A New Forum Lyne Cohen-Solal’s report into France’s “come together” to celebrate the holiday Adrien Brody stars in a film for A new fashion event is coming to fashion industry, published last December. spirit in style. The video is the the focal H&M, directed by Wes Anderson. Paris. Backed by France’s Ministries of — ALEX WYNNE Memo Pad

Lagerfeld was as meticulous with the on whether he regrets making such a de- Barbara Kruger. Be My Guest text as with the images, and he made a finitive prediction and what his thoughts “We, and Kruger, had always intended Since Choupette is never far from Karl “surprising choice” for the person who are on the media’s role in the presidential for our cover to convey multiple mean- Lagerfeld’s elbow, she figures in the interviewed him, Lalanne teased, keeping election. Through a spokeswoman, the ings: certainly that Trump was running holiday issue of Vogue Paris that the the name under wraps. editor declined to comment as he was behind, but also that America itself was designer guest edited. “It’s full of surprises,” he said of the closing the next issue of the magazine. losing, dragged down into a filthy dumb- The pampered feline crept her way issue, marveling at Lagerfeld’s elaborate To make matters worse, GQ also show campaign,” New York said. into a portfolio Lagerfeld lensed of some grooming regimen, which he also shares. ran a feature and coverline in the same Meanwhile at Vanity Fair, longtime of the ladies in his life — Princess Caroline “He buys a lot of products.” issue, which read: “Trump’s Secret Plans editor in chief and even longer-time of Hanover, Amanda Harlech, Virginie In the issue’s editorial letter, editor in Revealed! It’s Gonna Be So Much Better Trump critic Graydon Carter, didn’t make Viard, Delphine Arnault, Vanessa Paradis chief Emmanuelle Alt echoes the point. Than Being President.” The assumption, the bold prediction that GQ’s Nelson did, and Charlotte Casiraghi among them — “With a look as iconic as Elvis’, a The cover of the Vogue Paris shared by many journalists, was that but he teetered that line, while throwing in and he shares elements of the blue-eyed razor-sharp wit and legions of fans, he December 2016/January 2017 Trump would lose and start a media a few well-written jabs. Birman’s beauty routine in the 276-page is undoubtedly the most emblematic issue lensed by Hedi Slimane. company with ex-Fox News boss Roger “He is a mad jumble of a man, with magazine, due on newsstands Dec. 5. It fashion figure of our times. We think we Ailes and Breitbart’s Steve Bannon, who a slapdash of a campaign and talking carries 115 pages of advertising. know what Karl is all about, but this issue GQ went a step further. worked as his campaign ceo. points dredged from the dark corners at Lagerfeld’s favorite moment of the proves that he still has the power to The issue, which features Russell West- That may be Trump’s third act, after the bottom of the Internet. I don’t think he project? “When Hedi took the cover with surprise us,” she writes. brook on the cover, includes a letter from he and the controversial Bannon, now will get to the White House, but just the me,” the designer said, referring to Hedi According to Vogue, Lagerfeld reflects editor in chief Jim Nelson entitled “Hack his chief strategist, move into the White fact that his carny act has gotten so far Slimane, who has clearly resumed his edi- his epic career in fashion and shares his Trump,” which forecasted a Trump loss. House. along the road will leave the path with torial photography career since exiting the greatest reads, favorite sunglasses and a Nelson predicted that after Nov. 8, “Don- GQ wasn’t alone in it sentiment. a permanent orange stain,” Carter said creative helm of Saint Laurent last April. selection of photography, including a new ald Trump will go. But he will not go easy.” Especially noteworthy was Vogue editor in his November editor’s letter. “Trump, Paradis’ daughter Lily-Rose Depp fashion story starring Kristen Stewart, a The editor expounded on that thought: in chief Anna Wintour’s role in holding more than even the most craven politi- shares the black-and-white cover with Chanel ambassador. — Miles Socha “The good news: He will lose this election fund-raisers for Clinton while her maga- cians or entertainers, is a bottomless Lagerfeld, who approached the project badly, by which I mean poorly. Exceedingly zine endorsed and advocated for Clinton. reservoir of need and desire for atten- in his inimitable fashion: “Very articulate, poorly….Donald Trump is the enemy of the And in the days leading up to the election. He lives off crowd approval. And at very focused and quick — and with so Alternate people.” (The letter still appears online, tion, New York magazine ran a Trump cov- a certain point that will dim, as it always much wit,” marveled Olivier Lalanne, unchanged and without a postscript). er with the word “Loser” written across does to people like him, and the cameras deputy editor in chief at the Conde Nast Endings While most publications endorsed his face. The Oct. 31 cover accompanies will turn to some other American novelty. title. “He was one of the easiest to work Pick up the November issue of GQ rival Clinton (and to be fair, almost no one a story by Gabriel Sherman that portrays When that attention wanes, he will be left with, and we all had so much fun. He’s and you may think you’ve landed in an in establishment media expected the in- campaign staffers pondering their next with his press clippings, his dyed hair, his deep and light at the same time.” alternate universe — one in which Donald flammatory Trump to win), GQ’s prediction acts after an inevitable loss. fake tan and those tiny, tiny fingers.” Vogue Paris released select details Trump lost the election. While many in was bolder than most — an unusual move A week later and the world changed. That last part may turn out to hold about the issue today, confirming a WWD the media disavowed Trump via endorse- for a lifestyle magazine, unless there’s a And while it wasn’t quite “Dewey Defeats water. Carter could not be reached to report on Oct. 13 that Lagerfeld — and ments in favor of his opponent Hillary medium on staff writing horoscopes. Truman,” New York back peddled some- comment on the rest. Slimane — were implicated. Clinton or sharply penned editor’s letters, photograph by Kuba D abrowski Kuba by MSGM photograph WWD sought a comment from Nelson what on its cover, which was produced by — Alexandra Steigrad