Inspirational knowledge and the people behind the drink

September INTERNATIONAL 2013

INTERNA Web Auction TIONAL special

FRANO MILOS NATURAL HARMONY - IN SOUTHERN WINE PRODUCTION ON - WINEMAKER IN sid 12 GERMAN sid 17 FOUR CONTINENTS sid 34 page 6 A WINE EQUILIBRIST IN A TROPICAL ENVIRONMENT page 12 FRANO MILOS - WINEMAKER IN CROATIA page 17 NATURAL HARMONY - IN SOUTHERN GERMAN WINEMAKING page 28 GARDEN WITH BODY & SOUL page 34 Wine production on four continents page 39 LA CHABLISIENNE page 44 SWEDEN´S STATE OWNED OFF- LICENSE CHAIN THE SYSTEMBOLAGET IS INCREASING ITS EMPHASIS UPON CONSUMER INFORMATION IN STORES page 46 THE AUTUMN BUDGET PROMISES RAISED TAXES WebAuction Special: PAGE 52 ONLINE AUCTION OCTOBER 7 TO 9 STHLM PAGE 55 NETAUCTION 7-9 STHLM COMMENTS BY PETER THUSTRUP OCTOBER 5TH SALE PAGE 59 ACKER MERRAL & CONDIT OCTOBER 26 SALE IN HONG KONG PAGE 54 SOTHEBY´S 5 OCTOBER SALES IN HONG KONG SOTHEBY´S MOËT & CHANDON SALE IN LONDON 13 NOVEMBER LEGENDARY LATE OWNER OF PÉTRUS AND LATOUR Á POMEROL PAGE 68 SHANGHAI INTERNATIONAL WINE & SPIRITS SHOW 24 - 26 OCTOBER INTERNATIONAL notice

Argentina Comes to Gary Baumgarten visits Stockholm Stockholm One of South Africa’s top producers of pre- Roberto Luka and Rogelio Rabino mium wines, Gary Baumgarten, CEO of Ru- were responsible for creating a magi- pert Wines, made a lightning appearance cal evening in Stockholm’s Old Town. It at Lisa Elmqvist in the Östermalmshallen was all about tasting Finca Sophenias in Stockholm for a presentation of its pre- white and red wines together with mium segment. some Argentin- The wines tested were Anthonij Rupert, ian food. Unfortu- Optima and the Cape of Good Hope. Both nately though, only of them gave a lasting impression of the one of the wines high quality these wines represent. Perhaps a future investment? Let’s hope we see is available on the them again in Sweden soon. Swedish market. Learn more about these wines on www.rupertwines.com FINCA SOPHENIA 2011, which Diebolt-Vallois´s Crown Jewel was launched on – makes a world debut in Sweden June 1 at the Swed- ish state-owned The Diebolt-Vallois family has chosen Sweden to become the first country in the off-license chain, world to offer the highly acclaimed Diebolt-Vallois Fleur de Passion the Systembola- 2006 (99414). get. Item No: 6611, On the 2nd September, 840 bottles of Champagne House’s pride and joy, took Price: 99 kr, Alc: their place in the Systembolaget’s exclusive range. Those who were there and 14.5% willing to pay 599 Swedish crowns were able to uncork a memorable taste experience, which can only be described as delicate, complex and intense. For those who can wait, they will get the most out of this champagne after a few years cellaring.

Fine Wine - the on-line Magazine ”Life is too short to drink bad wine.” The quotation is familiar to most people and is often used when fine wines are men- tioned. But how does it really affect our behaviour when we’re preparing for a dinner party with good friends? When it comes to food we prepare the very best we can afford. But what about when it comes to buying the wine? Here in Sweden, the boulevard press are always recommending the discount bag-in-a-box or the cheapest drinkable plonk. Time to make a change don’t you think? In this issue of Fine Wine we will be travelling to the warm regions of southern Spain; we will be- come acquainted with new wines from Croatia and make a flying visit to Chablis. We also check out some southern German ‘ producers’ and visit a producer in South Africa who makes ‘Garden Wine’ with body and soul. In our Web Auction Special we evaluate some of the lots in the upcoming online auction. Enjoy.

Ove Canemyr, Editor in chief Fine Wine-the on-line magazine in a glass of its own! www.FineWine.nu

Please feel free to share Fine Wine International with friends and acquaintances who are over 20 years old and who interested in Fine Wines. Let us know of any interesting events, meetings and so on, in your part of the world. [email protected] We cannot accept responsibility for unsolicited material, omissions or inaccuracies. Please quote freely from Fine wine, but we ask that you always reveal your source.

Editoral Office: Ove Canemyr: Editor in Chief , Fine Wine Magazine/Trendsetter Box 24013, 104 50 Stockholm. Layout : Sophie L Slettengren, By Design AB, English texts: Roger Brett, Broadcasting Arts. [email protected] Editing and Proofreading: Kristine Larsen [email protected] Cover photo: Anne-Marie Canemyr

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Gay Wine is launched in Uruguay Recently, it became final that Uruguay is going to allow same-sex marriage . The country’s President Jose Mujica of the Extreme Left Wing party has welcomed The Lily Bollinger Award the bill, describing it as “Having Easter already in May.” This makes Uruguay Lat- for 2013 is decided Elunda, Deon och Andrea in America’s second country state after This year’s top female is A Trio Of Winemakers the neighboring Argentina who have Ulrika Ferlin from Mariefred. After a At a tasting of South African wines at also approved same-sex marriages . tough final round yesterday in Stock- holm the Lily Bollinger Award for The JanÅke Wine Group in Stockholm And to manifest its happiness in this de- 2013 was decided. Ulrika Ferlin can recently, there were no less than three cision , the wine industry has jumped now call herself “This Year Lily “ after South African winemakers present: on the band wagon. Because now it Lily Bollinger, the champagne widow, Elunda Basson, senior winemaker at has launched its very first Gay Wine. who for decades raised the venerable Pongracz, Dean Boshoff, senior win- The wine , which goes under the name Bollinger champagne house to the emaker at Zonnenbloem and A Place of Ithaca, will be sold in up-market bars high reputation it enjoys today. in the Sun, and Andrea Freeborough, mainly in the capital of Montevideo. winemaker for Fleur du Cap. “I’m so happy that it went so well! _ “We do not mean that the wine is From Pongracz there was a selection Hardest thing was the theory, and I only for gay people , but that the wine that included a number of sparkling was very nervous as I stood there on is intended for a public that is generally wines -Pongracz Brut, Rosé, and De- the stage but it all went well in the more open” , says Martín Guerra Vergara, siderius Pongracz Brut. Pongracz Brut end. Now I’ll digest this and then I sup- entrepreneur and promoter at a press is stocked by the Swedish off-license pose I’ll be eager to continue compet- conference to the country’s press. chain Systembolaget and the other ing,” says the 22-year old Ulrika. two can be specially ordered. Zonnenbloem showed off their white To celebrate her 75th birthday, the legendary Swedish Zonnebloem (a big variety artist Lill-Babs will launch seller at Systembolaget in BiB) and her own wine and donate the profits to their red Zonnenbloem Lauréat, both charity. 2010 . The Lill-Babs Sauvignon Blanc is dry, fresh and fruity and Fleur du Cap presented, amongst pairs perfectly with fish, seafood and chicken, or just to drink others, their Unfiltered 2010 and also as it is. an unfiltered 2009 . Both are available at the Systembolaget. Lill-Babs Sauvignon Blanc is available through the Swedish South African wines are gaining in state-owned off-license chains Systembolaget ordering cat- popularity and for most the alog, priced at 89 Swedish crowns, item # 75044. Northern European market is the Lill-Babs birthday is on the 9th March and all profits will go largest and most important. to her own Lill-Babs Foundation which works to improve More about the wines available at people’s living conditions, and protect and enhance natural www.janake.se and cultural resources.

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www.finewine.nu 3 INTERNATIONAL notice

The Douro Boys are celebrating ten years of joint wine making The small group exclusive winemakers in northern Portugal, called the Douro Boys , are now celebrating ten years of joint production. To commemoratethis, they have produced a and a port where all the come from their associ- ated wineries. These are not just any old wineries by the way. They are amongst the most emblematic in the area : Quinta do Vallado , Quinta do Crasto, Quinta Vale D. Maria , Quinta do Vale Meao and Quinta de Nápoles . To name but just a few. The project has made ​​headlines in the where the association was first published a decade ago . It is rather surprising really because many of these pro- ducers were previously competitors to each other, and to some extent still are. The wines are as follows: The Douro Boys Cuvée 2011 and Douro Boys Vintage Port 2011, made in​​ only 750 magnum bottles each. Sales are through a wine auc- tion in the Douro Valley on 13 September this year. Behind the Douro Boys , we find producers Francisco Olazabal , Miguel Roquett , Francisco Ferreira , Dirk van der Niepoort and Cristiano van Zeller .

Spanish youth rejecting Wines There is almost panic in the wine industry in Spain. Consumption has plunged during the last two decades and now reports say that it has plummeted from 40 liters per person down to a mere 15 liters per capita per year . If this is true , then numbers are extremely controversial , because it will mean that the producers will have to exert themselves even more to focus upon the export market. Experience tells that this is a not an easy road to take . Right now the industry is about to launch a giant bet campaign towards the younger generation. There will be “Round “Table discussions, and a series of sem- inars will be held , to highlight the burning question. While out in the country , most young people have long since switched to beer and cocktails. But even here, there´s been a healthy switch towards low wines that end up in the Span- ish shopping baskets instead of the more traditional wines . But the industry is also casting an eye on the Nordic and UK market , where wine consumption seems to be stable. Or, as in Sweden , where it has reached new heights. Today , in Sweden we drink almost 30 liters of wine per person per year .

Distell / Cape Legends and CSR Policy program. In June of this year, Carina Gous, manager of wine production at Distell / Cape Leg- ends in South Africa, attended the JanÅke Wine Group together with Sue Birch of WOSA (Wines of South Africa) to tell us more about CSR (Corporate Social Responsi- bility) and the attendant policies pertinent to this initiative. Prior to the merger between Distillers Corporation and The Stellenbosch Farmers there was already a policy in place dealing with social issues within the com- pany structure. Carina explains that while progress has been made in this sphere, Carina Gous Su Birch many challenges remain. There is an expectation through CSR that issues such as poverty, health, education and community development within the and wine industries will be addressed. Sue told me about her background, experience and their own initiatives in the con- text of building WOSA. This was a well-attended seminar in which many questions was answered. If interested in more information please contact janåke.johansson@ janåke.se for more information. 4 INTERNATIONAL

Good news for Connoisseurs

This autumn you have the possibility to buy rare bottles at Systembolagets online auctions in collaboration with Stockholms Auktionsverk at www.stadsauktion.se

7–9 of October starting at 1 pm 11–19 of November starting at 1 pm 9–11 of December starting at 1 pm

C294274_FineWine_180x240_SE+ENG.indd 2 2013-09-12 10:08

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a balancing act in a tropical

environmentWords & Pictures: Johan Franco Cereceda

Just a stone’s throw away from the Costa Tropical in southern Spain, wine cultivation is start- ing to establish itself. And the wines they are making are surprisingly good. Best of all is the Horacio Calvente which has already attained international cult status for its .

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It’s a sleepy kind of place and it In the middle of the small town is who are beginning to make their proved difficult to contact them, the Fig Square, where Jörgen Wet- presence felt. but after a few tries, eventually tervik and his wife Sandra have “Horacio Calvente is undoubtedly someone at the Bodegas Horacio established a restaurant selling one of the better. But the funny Calvente pickd up the phone and shrimp sandwiches. It has become thing is that there are more and we agreed upon a date and time popular with the local Swedes more winemakers who are prov- for me to visit. I promised to call who have settled here in the tropi- ing it’s possible to make wine in a the day before to confirm but cal environment. Jörgen is famil- tropical setting.” when I did they had completely iar with the local wine producers forgotten that I was coming! Well, being flexible is a hallmark of the Spanish, or so I thought! When I arrived the following day the owner, Horacio Calvente, was not there – he’d forgotten, but he promised to hurry up. And sure enough, after a while waiting out- side the little bodega, he came screeching up in his car. “I’ve lost a day this week - I thought it was Thursday and it’s already Friday,” he apologized. The bodega is located ten minutes’ drive to the north of the Span- ish seaside town of Almuñécar. Many Swedes find their way here during the winter months and it seems like half the population have apartments they can escape to during the insanely hot sum- mer months. The city is located in what is known as the Costa Tropical which sports a coastline worthy of the name. It’s a pleasantly humid late July afternoon and as the mercury ris- es towards the 40’s the humidity is worthy of a steam room. They grow bananas, chirimoya , mango and avocado here, and just 20k’s to the east in Montero there is a rum distillery, using sugar from the cane which they grow locally.

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Previously, the entire southern “I have a vineyard called Castillejos coast of Spain was known for its which lies at around 1000 meters. fortified wines made from the Up there we grow a few acres of sweet Muscatel . Of course , Merlot, in the Jerez area you would quench and . All four your thirst with a dry fino. Inter- are blended into the wine that estingly, today more and more bears the Castillejos label. The producers are making dry wines - His interest is great and he is well result is excellent for a wine posi- red, rosé as well as white. And it is traveled, even though his happy tioned in the upper medium price the white wine that pours out of hunting grounds are in the vicin- range. Horacio Calventes’s winepress, for ity. We are sitting at 200, perhaps The vineyard has a very different both domestic and international 300 metres above sea level. It’s climate which gives the fruit that consumption. In a recent edition still hot and very humid. Grow- much needed acidity. It is very of ‘1001 Wines you need to Drink ing grapes in an environment like steep, in places upwards of 45 de- before you Die’, Calvente’s white this may seem like taking the risk grees, and the barren soil is both wine is included. Who would have of a lifetime. It would make sense rocky and mineral-rich which thought that just a few years ago? to be up in the mountains further lends the wines a pleasant com- “The major challenge lies in mak- inland. Like the Sierra Nevada plexity. ing a dry white wine,” he says, mountain range, with peaks above The yield is low, no more than 3000 metres. And indeed, this is when we eventually settle down 4,500 kg per hectare, and only where Horacio Calvente has his for a chat in the bodega. All the best fruit is selected so as to . around us hang many animal tro- maintain quality. Releasing a wine phies from his years of hunting. >>>

8 INTERNATIONAL of ‘flexible character’ is not some- knew quite what you had in the vente’s philosophy ensures that thing you’d want to do. glass - it was a bit of an adventure! production is restricted in spite of Today’s low quality considerably glowing reviews, the international “No, it would destroy just about everything that I’m trying to build higher than before.” acclaim and growing demand. up,” says Horacio. “Today, the He believes the quality must im- This applies to the dry white wine name Horacio Calvente stands prove before the area becomes in particular, the Calvente Guin- for quality, despite, or perhaps in known for premium wines. Expo- dalera. Made from Muscat, it is spite of, the area where the wines sure to the Costa Tropical, and the known for its aromatic charac- come from. To compromise the Costa del Sol to the west, is almost ter and gentle acidity. The wine quality would be disastrous. All I infinite, and it’s there that Señor is surprisingly fresh, with a large have is my name as a guarantee of Calvente wants his wines. There dose of tropical fruitiness. Quite quality.” are already several top restaurants brilliant in its simplicity and a in the country that stock them and really exciting wine to go with The area falls within a DOP, Vino de Calidad de Granada, but the he exports to dozens of countries, grilled monkfish accompanied by denomination is not well-known, but is always on the lookout for mango chutney. new markets. The Swedish market and many of the wines haven’t “This is my pride, the wine I work yet attained the highest standard. is particularly attractive, given the with mostly. Making a dry, white Horacio Calvente is nevertheless Swedish colony in southern Spain wine with good acidity to balance pretty happy with the develop- is still expanding. a lot of fruit is a big challenge,” he ment. Production is limited, with scarce- says, smiling. A smile that reveals ly ten acres, which yields a few he knows he has succeeded. ” If you compare it to what it was hundred thousand bottles and the a few years ago, there have been The wines have an amazing con- enormous improvements. When bodega, in the small village of Jete centration, attributed partly to you drank local wine in this re- about 10 k’s north of Almuñécar, the vines being pre-phylloxera, gion, say ten years ago, you never has no room for expansion. Cal- meaning they are more than 120

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Horacio Calventes wines: Xate-O, dry white, Moscatel de Ale- jandría and Viognier. years old and not grafted onto Xate-O, a white wine Moscatel / Simple, straightforward wine, aro- American rootstock. The isolated Viognier blend which is selling as matic with good fruit and a sprightly high-altitude location has made soon as the stock hits the shelves acidity. this possible. in shops all along the Mediterra- nean coast. Pink-O, rosé a blend of Petit Verdot Horacio Calvente is far too rest- and Tempranillo. less a man to settle for this; he Should you experience the essence Sturdy, fruit-driven in more of a clar- has several projects in the pipeline of his vision, the Calvente Guin- et style wine than a lighter red wine. and has recently planted one hec- dalera white and Castillejos red There is a certain roughness and a tare of Viognier. We are talking are both excellent examples of dominant cherry length. about wine cultivation 1,500 me- how surprisingly good wines can Laguin-da, red, 55% Tempranillo, tres above sea level. On the other come from a tropical setting. A 45% Syrah. hand, his Petit Verdot Rosé has paradox in itself; what a surprise! become a hot topic among wine Fruity, well-balanced, fresh with a lit- aficionados in Spain as well as his tle mineral character. Guindalero Blanco, dry white, Moscatel de Alejandría. Aromatic, complex in that peculiar style in which the Muscat grape dominates the aroma, while main- taining a good acidity on the palate with a tropical fruit-oriented charac- ter and hints of minerality. Guindalero Tinto, red, a blend of Tempranillo, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvi- gnon and Merlot. Fruit-oriented flavour, a bit straggly in style, with light jam-like elements and a certain arduous finish. Castillejos, red, 40% Syrah, 35% Ca- bernet Sauvignon, 15 % Tempranillo & 10% Merlot. Solidly exciting, good balance, fruity. A well-integrated wine, com- plex with good acidity, peppery with good length.

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11 INTERNATIONAL frano milos– winemaker with his sights set on plavac mali TEXT: SUSANNE BERGLUND KRANTZ PHOTO: SUSANNE BERGLUND KRANTZ and FRANO MILOS

I am reporting from the beautiful world-heritage city of Dubrovnik in the southern-most part of Croatia. Travelling on a local bus, I take in the stunning beauty of the Orika coastline to Ston on the Peljesac peninsula, one hour north of Dubrovnik. This is home to winemaker Frano Milos, known not only here but with a reputation that reaches far beyond Croatia’s borders. Frano, together with his with daughter Franica, meets us at the station and from there our journey continues in the family’s jeep, to their vineyards and cellar.

Frano Milos in the vineyard >>> 12 INTERNATIONAL

Croatia’s southern coastline

CROATIA the vineyards and in the wineries. and Korcula and on the Peljesac peninsula . The vineyards of this This country has a history of viti- The country is divided into two culture stretching back in time main regions; Continental Hrvat- coastal region dominate with local to the ancient Greeks and Phoe- ska, in the interior. This region is grape varieties in the hundreds, nicians. They helped take the divided into sub regions (like Sla- such as the common blue Plavac wine further west into Europe a vonia, where many an Italian Mali and green Posip . In addition hundred years before the birth of cask originates) and these are fur- to wine, they produce olive oil and Christ. During Tito’s rule of Yu- ther defined into smaller districts. salt on the Peljesac peninsula, and goslavia most of the cooperative Here, behind the mighty moun- there is also a significant number wineries disappeared, and the civil tain ranges, the climate is conti- of oyster farms. war in the 1990s saw the demise nental and white wines dominate Frano MILOS of many vineyards. production. From picturesque Ston, with its Today, there are many wineries but Primorska Hrvatska is the coastal five kilometre long stone wall (a very few make premium wines region that includes offshore is- fortification of historical signifi- with a high price tag. EU entry lands, and enjoys a varied Mediter- cance), we drive to Milos’ vine- could possibly give the country’s ranean climate. This region is also yards in the bright sunshine and winemakers a boost and eventu- divided into several sub-regions summer heat. When we arrive ally we may get to enjoy some of - Istria and Dalmatia - which in at the steep, rocky vineyard situ- the best wines Croatian has to of- turn are divided into smaller dis- ated at high altitude, there is a fer here in Scandinavia. The po- tricts. Several of the most notable pleasant wind that fans us and tential for quality is there, both in are located on the islands of the temperature is naturally lower >>>

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than down in the valley. Light, and islands. Frano produces dry, ideal which is to as fresh sunshine, heat and the winds semi-dry, semi-sweet and sweet and concentrated grapes as is pos- from the sea, and the mountains wines from a hybrid grape which sible. Biodiversity is clear through to the west and the north makes is a cross between Crljenac and numerous medicinal herbs (from the area ideal for organic farm- Dobricic; both of these are local which the family produces special ing. Mildew poses no threat and varieties. Plavac Mali needs a lot teas) and many different animal there’s no need for spraying. The of sun and heat to ripen and the species, which is an important ground is stony, rich in limestone, thick skin protects it against in- part of Milos’s organic farming and well drained. There are both tense sunshine and provides a lot philosophy. The winery is located old and newly erected stone walls of concentrated colour, tannins, in the village of Ponikve were tra- along the terraces to prevent ero- and aromas. ditionally they use only old, large sion. Frano Milos owns 15 hec- barrels of Slovenian oak. Never The wines of this grape give, at best, tares with vines solely focused very good aging potential. Frano new oak, and never small casks, so up Plavac Mali. Some of these intervenes as little as possible the character of the grape domi- were planted by Milos’s fore- in the vineyard and strives only nates. Milos also produces olive bears. Plavac Mali is indigenous wishes to develop his ancestor’s oil from his own plantations of to the southern Dalmatian coast Oblic and Past Rica varieties.

The village of Kingston with the Maturing Plavac Mali Frano Milos´s cellar part of the wall visible in the back- ground

TIP The Croatian coast is well worth a visit with its many is- in the surrounding villages, but by Swedish standards is lands. Many of the towns and villages are well kept and most affordable. D’ Vino Wine Bar has a great range of quite beautiful. Dubrovnik is the jewel in the crown with wines, a good selection of appetizers and if you buy one its medieval stone wall that embraces the old town with with the wine you will pay regular Cash-and-Carry prices. its streets and shiny cobblestones. A visit to Lokrum Is- The Restaurant 360 degrees has lovely terrace, overlooking land, 20 minutes by boat from the port, is worth the effort. the harbour where, in the evenings, you can sit beneath The city was severely bombed during the war, but has the stars .The wine is from well-established wineries; in ad- been reconstructed and renovated and is now on the UN- dition to Frano Milos there is Roxanich from Istria, Grgich ESCO world heritage map. It’s more expensive here than from the island of Korcula, and Zlatan Otok from Hvar.

>>> 14 INTERNATIONAL the tasting 2012 ROSÉ 2009 PLAVAC 2006 STAGNUM The new Franos wine se- Basic wines of Plavac Mali Frano Milos’s pride. These lection, where premium are styled as a premium grapes are grown in 30-year fruit of Plavac Mali grown wines fermented with wild old terraced vineyard loca- on high altitude vine- yeasts and stored in large, tion. Wild yeast fermenta- yards, is used. Beautiful old Slovenian oak barrels. tion and large old Sloveni- and intense cherry-red Unfiltered and with mini- an oak barrels contribute to colour with strong aro- mal sulphur added. a fine end result. The wine mas of fruit, minerality is unfiltered with minimal It has a medium intensity and stony clay predomi- sulphur added. Deep red appearance with a ruby nate. The palate is struc- hue with developed, broad red hue and grenadine- tured, with fresh acidity, grenadine-coloured edge. tinged edge. The aroma is focused, full-bodied and The aromas are developed, fresh and clean with spice concentrated with min- deep, complex, spicy and and red berries. The palate erality. The aftertaste is herbaceous with dark fruit. The palate displays minerals and herbs with a long, elegant and balanced. Perfect is fruit-driven with noticeable alcohol, firm structure and tannin without be- with grilled fish, roasted potatoes still nicely integrated into the whole. ing too aggressive. Pleasant and bal- and browned butter. The texture is silky with ripe tannins anced in alcohol. Very harmonious. and balanced acidity. Hints of rose- An ‘everyday wine’ that can be served mary, licorice, allspice and mineral is chilled to accompany cheese or other clear and experienced in layers. The snacks. overall impression remains, which de- spite its youthfulness, reveals the fur- ther aging potential. A long aftertaste. With such power and complexity, the wine will pair well with slow-cooked lamb, mushrooms, herbs and artichoke.

2003 STAGNUM 2007 STAGNUM 2007 STAGNUM This vintage was very hot HALVSÖT in Europe and Frano was Made of very ripe grapes The fruit for this sweet wine extremely pleased with the and residual sugar of 16 with 100 grams/l of residual result. The wine was stored grams per liter. Deep ruby- sugar is allowed to dry on the for 5 years before bottling. red hue. Aromas of licorice, vine as long as the weather It has a ruby-red hue with delicious cherries in choco- permits. They are then hung grenadine-coloured halo late, woody tones & pine. It up in a special room for a around the core. The aro- is intensely fruity on the pal- further 2 months. The grapes ma is ripe with secondary ate, with a fresh acidity, tan- are then pressed in the time- aromas of leather, tobacco nin and balanced sweetness. honoured way by foot, and and spices. The mouth feel The aftertaste is long and after fermentation the wine is soft and ripe with tones concentrated with little ani- is stored in large, old oak bar- of fruit, mineral, tobacco and herbs. mal tones. Enjoyable with chocolate rels. Medium intensity ruby-red colour The structure is noticeably steady with that has a high cocoa content. tending towards grenadine. The aroma marked but fine-boned tannins. Al- is complex, smoky, with some mineral- cohol is integrated and balanced. The ity and hints of blue cheese. The taste is aftertaste is long and harmonious. This slim and elegant despite the sugar but wine is great on its own, but goes well overall balanced thanks to the slender with wild meat with mushrooms, root tannin structure. The acidity expresses vegetables or a mature cheese. a certain freshness and the aftertaste is an explosion of cherries. The wine is a dessert in itself. 15 INTERNATIONAL

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natural harmony in southern german winemaking PHOTO: Anne-Marie Canemyr

There is an exciting development occurring in the viniculture industry of Southern Germany with the focus predominantly on . A number of producers are investing in the production of biodynamic and organic wines.

Many are already established in come from their own vineyards duced under optimal conditions the Swedish market, but a num- and are managed according to the with no loss of quality for many ber of smaller producers are now strict standards required by the years. Only established regional looking for importers to take their VDP. grapes may be used. drier into northern Eu- VDP ORTSWEIN (local Wine) comes VDP GROSSE LAGE (High Grade) rope. from the best vineyards in a spe- consists of specially selected wines The new classification of these cific geographical area and con- from German vineyards of the wines can, at times, be difficult to tains only typical regional grape highest quality. Special – understand, but here is their VDP varieties. awarded for the environment and classification: optimal maturation, naturally VDP ERSTE LAGE (1st class) come with quality-controlled regional VDP.GUTSWEIN is the introductory from premium vineyards with level to the quality division of pre- their own distinct character and grape varieties that befit each win- mium wine producers. The grapes where fine wines have been pro- ery best. >>>

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Well that seems pretty easy to un- derstand! Not always. We have - ited a number of these producers along the southern Rhine to try the products and examine the extent to which the production is either bio- dynamic or organic. They all have one thing in com- mon; they want to produce wines of the highest quality without any additives or pesticides being used. Many go even further and use plantings of different flowers and herbs to achieve a balance in the

vineyards. Managed in this way, thus have extra organic material to they entice insects and birdlife enhance soil health. that take care of any parasites and The really biodynamic farmers use diseases that should not be there. cow horn mixed with cow dung. A diversity of bees and butterflies This is dug into the soil when the are not only a feast for the eyes but moon is in the right place at rate of also for the vineyards. Some pro- 4 horns per hectare. ducers with slightly more difficult conditions on steep slopes like to use horses instead of machines and >>>

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Whether or not this is effective, wines produced here are also sold But let’s start in we leave it up to the consumer to on the domestic market. With a Rheinhessen decide, but we can conclude that few exceptions, they include The Weingut Brüder Dr. Becker Rieslings from southern Germany Weingut Christmann which is al- are very dry. ready in great demand on the Scan- This a traditional biodynamic dinavian market. grower who strictly follows the es- How will they promote these wines tablished rules of Rudolf Steiner, on the domestic market? The style who is the ancestor of growers in of this white wine has changed over Vienna who spread their ideas at the last few years, and most of the the beginning of the last century. 11 Hectare in total. One of the first organic producers in the 70’s. www.brueder-dr-becker.de

Weingut Brüder Dr. Becker >>>

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Weingut Wittman Classified as biodynamic since 2003. 25 Ha. Riesling and Pinot Blanc. Producing a total of 150 to 200,000 bottles a year. 60% of pro- duction goes to domestic markets and 40 % is exported. www.wittmannweingut.com

>>>

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Weingut Sander

Weingut Sander Weingut Weinreich Then we head down to The Rhine- A total of 25 ha. 250,000 bottles 16 ha. 120,000 bottles a year. land Pfaltz region per year. 85% sold on the domes- 80% sold on the domestic market, tic market and 15% is exported. 20 % is exported. 75% are white wines. Runs a restaurant business. www.weingut-sander.de www.weinreich-wein.de >>>

Weingut Weinreich

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Weingut Christmann They have been Biodynamic grow- ers since 2002, producing 140,000 bottles per year with a tradition of making dry wines. As early as 1907 Riesling from the Pfaltz was as costly as Bordeaux wines in res- taurants in England for example. 40% is currently exported (mostly to Sweden) and 60% consumed on the premises. Weingut Christmann www.weingut-christmann.se

Weingut Pflüger 20 ha at the present time and a production of 160,000 bottles per year. 1970 saw the start of the tran- sition to organic farming. 2010 Al- exander took over from his father. Today they are one of the few who use horses on the vineyard slopes, principally because they are so steep but also to get a natural sup- ply of manure. www.pflueger-wein.de

>>>

Weingut Pflüger

www.vinlusenab.se

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Weingut Dr. Bürklin-Wolf

Weingut Dr. Bürklin-Wolf Hofgut Ruppertsberg 85 ha and 130,000 bottles a year. A restaurant offering organically 1995 began the transition to or- grown food and wine. ganic wine production. Culinary delicacies of a high stand- “In Germany we are waking up ard, with premium quality wines. our own terroir,” says Tom Benns www.dashofgut.com . In 2005 25 hectares was organic but the volume is increasing year Hofgut Ruppertsberg by year.” www.buerklin-wolf.de Time to drive further west towards the Middle Rhine and Geisenheim.

>>>

Fine Wines från Italen! Se själv på www.wineoclock.se

Att beställa vin från Wine O´clock är helt lagligt och bekymmersfritt. Sedan juni 2007 kan svenskar bestäl- la vin från utlandet och få det hemlevererat. Svensk Alkoholskatt och moms är redan inkluderat i priset.

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At the Geisenheim Research Institute, we met Professor Dr. Randolf Kauer

At the Geisenheim Research Insti- growing, which has been developed “ production must tute, we met Professor Dr. Ran- extensively by the students them- come from within if it is to func- dolf Kauer who is responsible for selves. ”The Farm as an organism” tion at all,” concludes Dr.Randolf. education and research on organic and “Body, soul and wine” are two We also met Mr. Ralph Dejas, CEO wine. The institute has a reputation Rudolf Steiner sayings that are of- of ECOVIN the largest German for being the foremost research ten quoted here. association of organic farmers in and educational facility in Europe IFOM is the name of the organization Germany. in the cultivation and production that works towards establishing of organic wines. They have sev- global guidelines for organic wine eral hectares of experimental vines production. >>>

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Weingut Peter Jakob Kühn

Weingut Peter Jakob Kühn Have been biodynamic growers for 10 years. He points out how im- portant the moon phase is at har- vest time. He also spreads 10 tons of cow manure per hectare. www.weingutpjkuehn.de

Weingut Ankermühle A very high-class restaurant serving their own wines, which was widely used throughout the conference. www.ankermuehle.de

>>>

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Time for us to move on to Wiesbaden for the start of this year’s sales and to taste over 420 wines from the 2012 vintage. www.vdp.de/en/vdp-die-praedi- katsweingueter

We also had time for a visit to Lorch im Eheingau. We also had time for a visit to Lorch im Eheingau

In conclusion, we want to empha- size that there is a big change going on here in southern Germany. Not only in terms of production, but more as a result of organic produc- tion which is resulting in a very in- teresting development in the mar- ketplace. For premium dry Riesling wines. The future and effects of climate change will dictate what happens next. Today, 7.1% or 6,900 Ha, Weingut Graf von Kanitz are under organic production in Wine has been produced here since Germany. How many will there be 12th century. Not hard to believe tomorrow? when you see all the old castles along

the steep banks that flank the river Weingut Graf von Kanitz Rhine. Weingut von Kanitz has 14 Ha of vines and produces 75,000 bottles a year. Member of ECOVIN since 1991. The head winemaker is Ian Kolbert. www.weingut-graf-von-kanitz.de

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Les Cailloux Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2010

Art.nr. 79121 299 kr Alc.5 % vol. Producent: Lucien et André Brunel Parker: 93 poäng

www.bravin.se

Alkohol är beroendeframkallande

27 INTERNATIONAL garden wines with body and soul PHOTO: DMZ Welcome to the DeMorgenzontext brittfamily karlsson in Stellenbosch, PHOTO per karlsson, South bkwine.com Africa. Here, at 200-400 meters above sea level, with magnificent views over Cape Town and Table Mountain, the Atlantic and Indian oceans, lies the family Appelbaums Garden Wine Vineyards.

>>>

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“Thanks to our elevated position Merwe, chief winemaker at De- here on the eastern and south- Morgenzon, as he makes a grand, ern slopes of the Ribbokoop val- sweeping gesture with his hand. ley, we get the morning sun here In the early 1700’s they were culti- first. Hence the name DeMorgen- vating grapes of high quality here. zon – meaning ‘the morning sun’ And the conditions that created in Dutch. And it is here in the wines with a taste of the old world various micro-climate zones that were probably one of the reasons , Syrah and Mourvérdre why Wendy and Hylton Appel- grapes thrive best and make up baum bought the DeMorgenzon the basis of the Rhone blend that property in 2003. we create here,” says Carl van der

>>> 29 INTERNATIONAL

They had a plan to create a bio- logical diversity and immediately they set about transforming the vineyard. Within a few years they reached their objective - wild flow- ers and herbs were allowed to flour- ish between the vines in the soils of Oakleaf and Tukula, providing the very best conditions for producing DMZ Concerto wine. The varieties growing on the 60 hectares were specifically selected as being suit- able for the microclimate here. The name Concerto was given to the wine for a simple, yet special, rea- son. ”At the end of the ripening process, you give your grapes an extra dose of music. But not just any old mu- sic. It has to be Baroque, and the fruit responds to the music with body and soul; this living organ- ism is affected during the course of maturation,” Carl continues con- vincingly. This method of playing music to the vines in the vineyards is also prac- ticed in Italy and areas of South America with great success. The harmony of nature and the har- mony of the music obviously gives the fruit both body and spirit, Wendy and Hylton are careful to point out.

>>>

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“You can sense both the terroir and Storing for 12 months in French fruitier, and combine it with Old the body. It makes the wine flavour- oak casks also leaves an impres- World elegance, thus providing a ful, nuanced and balanced, with sion on the palate. The aim has structured and elegant wine for the character of ripe plums, spices, been to make an elegant wine in the world market. black pepper, violets and oak. “ a New World style that is a little

>>> VINBANKEN

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“ Our total production is about 500,000 bottles a year and our main markets today are South Af- rica, USA, Holland and Belgium. TheS candinavian will grow. To an- swer your question of which wine is particularly suited to the food? Why not elk steak with chanterelle sauce, or beef Provençale, “ they say with a smile. DMZ Concerto provides the best of both worlds and offers an experi- ence that is out of the ordinary for anyone visiting. Try the wine at DeMorgenzon in Stellenbosch!

Facts: DMZ Concerto Red wine in bottle Area WO Stellenbosch, South Africa Item nr in Sweden: 3156-01 Vintage 2012 Alcohol content 14.5% Acid 5.60 g / l Sugar 2:00 g / l Price at the Systembolaget in Swe- den: 119: Swedish Crowns (750ml)

Världspremiär för En Värld av Vin på nätet All världens vinländer, regioner, viner och producenter i en dator nära dig. Registrera dig gratis på www.envarldavvin.se. Välkommen hälsar Mikael Mölstad.

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”bästa FYND! mousserande vin 2012”

finns även ”matigt bubbel på halvflaska:- med intensiv 65 koncentration” ”mest köp! champagnelika mousserande vinerna och ”fyndpris för avsevärt så mycket bättre” kvalitet” RöttoRps bästa mousseRande vineR

Pongrácz Brut 12%VoL, Art.nr 7628 750ML 109Kr / 375ML 65Kr

www.janake.se

Alkohol i samband med arbete ökar risken för olyckor.

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wine production on

fourP HOTOcontinents: Ove Canemyr/Hess Family Estate

Donald Hess has created an empire. His portfolio includes not only wine but also real estate and modern art. The empire is controlled from its HQ in Bern, Switzerland. Christoph J. Ehr- bar, CEO of HESS Holdings, is also responsible for Peter Lehman in Australia and Colomé in South America, which are two of the continents. The others are The Hess Collection Winery in California and Glen Carlou in South Africa. All of them are headed up by Timothy Persson. Both Christoph and Timothy Christoph.J.Ehrbar are married to Donald Hess and Ursula’s daughters.

>>>

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“Why have you decided to make various parts of the world. We “There are of course major markets wine in 4 different parts of the have achieved a total sales increase in the making in the vicinity of world?” The question goes to of 15% in recent years.” where we are located today, so cer- Christoph . tain evolution make take place in The purely commercial part of that direction in the future,” says “It’s all about being in the best lo- the business is secured by HESS cations on the continents where Holdings, which provides pro- Christoph with a smile. opportunities exist to develop each tection for the real estate and the Let’s look at grape variety and thus increase the world-renowned art collection. one of the con- potential to make better and bet- Donald Hess has also opened his tinents where ter fine wines,” says Christoph . own museums with the art being HESS Family “We have logistical considerations displayed in different parts of the Estates are al- to make over all of our different world where HESS Holdings op- ready in place. markets within the organisation erate. South America, and the majority of our sales are specifically Ar- When asked if there will be more Thibaut Delmotte made domestically, even if all our continents of the Empire in the gentina, where wines are naturally exported to future, the answer was: oenologist Thibault Delmotte is

>>>

Amalaya Winery Argentina

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Barossa landscape Glen Carlou Winery SA

Old Barossa Shiraz Vine Colome Winery

responsible for the production of “When you’re involved in organic “One problem we face is with ants. Bodega Colomes´s wines for the farming, you shouldn’t irrigate too They are necessary, but they can South American portfolio. much, so it is important to store do more harm than good if there water in a dam so it’s always on are too many. Currently, intensive “Here in the high altitudes, in the shadow of the Andes, we have a hand when you need it. There are, efforts are underway to solve this problem with drought in that of course, many birds and other problem, which is by no means rain doesn’t flow down into the insects that help maintain balance unique in the production of or- valley very often, so you have to in the vineyards, so there’s no need ganic wines, no matter where you rely on the river that runs through for pesticides and spraying.” are in the world.” the valley. Vineyard El Arenal, at Thibault is very careful to describe 2,600 m above sea level, was the just how important balance in the first vineyard to planted by Don- vineyard is, to get the high quality ald Hess in 1999. fruit needed to supply premium wines from Colomé.

>>>

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Glen Carlou Vineyards SA

FACTS: Argentina South Africa AMALAYA Tinto Calchaqui Valley GLEN CARLOU , Paarl AMALAYA Blanco Calchaqui Valley GLEN CARLOU Quartz Stone Chardonnay, Paarl COLOMÉ Estate Malbec Calchaqui Valley GLEN CARLOU Grand Classique, Paarl COLOMÉ Estate Torrontés Calchaqui Valley GLEN CARLOU Gravel Quarry Cabernet Sauvignon, Paarl

Australia California PETER LEHMANN Portrait Cabernet Sauvignon, HESS Select Chardonnay, Monterey Barossa Valley HESS Select Cabernet Sauvignon, North Coast PETER LEHMANN Portrait Shiraz, Barossa Valley ARTEZIN Mendocino County PETER LEHMANN Portrait Eden Valley Dry Riesling THE HESS COLLECTION 19 Block Cuvée Mount Veeder PETER LEHMANN Layers Red, Barossa Valley THE HESS COLLECTION Chardonnay Napa Valley Su´skol PETER LEHMANN Layers White, Adelaide Hills Vineyard PETER LEHMANN Clancy´s Red, Barossa Valley SEQUANA Dutton Ranch , Green Valley of PETER LEHMANN Mentor Cabernet Sauvignon, Russian River Barossa Valley SEQUANA Sundawg Ridge Pinot Noir, Green Valley of PETER LEHMANN Stonewell Shiraz, Barossa Valley Russian River

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GULD. IGEN. De 30 vinrecensenterna har sagt sitt: För andra året i rad är Vila Santa Reserva ”Årets Röda Box” enligt Allt om vin.

Vila Santa Reserva 2011 Portugal, 14 % vol Box, 3 liter, Art.Nr. 12507, 269 kr

Alkohol i samband med arbete ökar risken för olyckor.

38 INTERNATIONAL

la chablisienneText & PHOTO Sofia Ander

“For us three hundred feet is nothing, but for Chablis it means everything!” Hervé Tucki, Brand Ambassador, explained as he greeted us on our visit to La Chablisienne winery. “The soil here is very complex and multi-dimensional. It is not so important what’s on top, but rather what lies below the surface” he continues.

We are touring Burgundy in of the region’s total production. number of winemakers decided to France. From Burgundy to Chab- join forces, making it easier to sell This would be a big undertaking lis suddenly seems quite easy with for a single winery or private vine- their wines. only white wine and a few premier yard. But for La Chablisienne this This arrangement continued for cru and grand cru to keep track of. is not a problem - it is a large co- approximately 25 years. Members Of course it is much more com- operative, comprising more than gave their wines to La Chablisi- plex than one might expect. 300 members. enne, who in turn took care of sales Chablis itself consists of 6,800 to wholesalers and retail outlets. It was started in 1923 during the hectares, 4,700 of which are in great depression. Europe was in Over time, La Chablisenne wanted grapes. La Chablisenne accounts for the throes of an economic crisis; to make their make their own approximately 1,200 acres, or 25% the wine industry in particular. A wine and started buying fruit >>>

39 INTERNATIONAL from growers, and this business There are two different wines pro- “What´s your opinion on using oak arrangement continues to the pre- duced in Grenouille. Le Fief de casks?” I ask. sent day. Grenouilles, grown in clay and “We like to use oak barrels, but limestone, it is aged one year on La Chablisienne produces wines from only to highlight and accentuate six of the seven Grand Cru estates, lees in both oak barrels and steel the wine, not disguise or hide it,” which own most of Grenouille. It tanks. says Hervé. also boasts the beautiful Château The Château Grenouille comes All the wines are characterised by a Grenouille, where the winery holds from rigorously selected grapes fine minerality and crispness, but tastings and dinners. A beautiful from old vines. It is an intense also good body and roundness. setting, it is surrounded by vine- wine that cellars well. yards, and the Serien River which Finesse and elegance take pred- In all, La Chablisienne owns 7.2 flows through Chablis is also home edence over muscles with Chablis. acres of land here, more than any Especially in La Chablisienne. to lots and lots of frogs. Grenouille other winery in Chablis. is French for ‘frog’. >>>

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The seven Grand Cru Petit Chablis 2012 Chablis Premier Cru estates Classic Petit with fresh acid- Fourchaume 2011 • Les Clos ity, freshness, fine minerality and An enticing wine with well-integrat- • Les Preuses lovely citrus tones. ed oak and a lovely touch of spice. • Blanchot Chablis La Peirrelée 2011 Chablis Premier Cru • Vaudesir A well-rounded wine with a little Vaulorent 2011 • Grenouilles more body than usual. This wine Vaulorent is adjacent to the Grand is something of an experiment Cru estate Les Preuses. This wine • Valmur and a project for the new win- is big and delicious, well-rounded • Blanchot emaker (who joined in 2011) who in its complexity, with hints of La Chablisenne produces over 30 allowed it to rest longer on less in spicy oak and delicate nuances of white wines, ranging from Petit the barrel. yellow stone fruits. Chablis to Grand Cru. Here is a Chablis Les Venerables Old Chablis Premier Cru Montée selection and their recent . Vines 2011 de Tonnerre 2011 2009 was a warmer vintage which Young and tight at the present More austere than the previous gave us fruitier wines, ready to be time, but displaying good min- wines. Nevertheless it offers fresh- drunk relatively early. erality and acidity in the back- ness, good acidity and slightly 2010 was an outstanding year, ground. peppery finish. with good acidity and a long life. Chablis Premier Cru La Chablis Grand Cru Les 2011 was also a fine and settled Singuliere 2011 Preuses 2010 year, with wines that can be drunk Fresh, with good concentration and A young wine; the oak is not yet today but will also benefit from hints of smokiness, green apples and integrated. Stylish and elegant, cellaring. citrus. with pleasant crunchy tones and yellow stone fruit. 2012 was a rainy and cold year, Chablis Premier Cru with a meagre harvest. Vaillons 2011 Chablis Grand Cru Château Grenouille 2010 2013 looks to be better, after a Complex with delicious fruit, smoky sluggish start to the summer. with a minerality. Focused with A very elegant and complex wine strong hints of yellow stoned fruit from a fine 2010 vintage. Young and apples. but already focused, with strong hints of citrus, a little oak, spice and toasted hazelnuts.

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Hälften av alla som drunknar har alkohol i kroppen

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43 INTERNATIONAL changes at systembolaget Sweden’s state-owned off-license Chain, the Systembolaget, is increasing its emphasis on consumer information in stores. This coincides with the introduction of their new range. One of those responsible for drafting the new material is Hanna Frändh-Samuelsson . We met at the Systembolaget’s retail outlet on Nybrogatan in downtown Stockholm for her to explain what drove this decision.

“The new model has been in place for the past year,” Hanna told me. “We’ve been testing new ways of presenting our products as well as offering new information,” Amongst other things, there are brochures pertaining to a vari- ety of red and white wines, beers and spirits and suitable pairing with food. In this way staff can help customers with recipe ideas, which they take home along with their other purchases. “This makes it easier for everyone working in the stores, because here are the answers to many of the questions customers usually ask us,” says Hanna. “Actually, there are lots of and lots of great recipes; they are really get- ting a bargain!” The layout in the stores has been changed making it easier for cus- tomers to find their way around. Countries are in alphabetical or- der, with the shelves well flagged. Stock is displayed according to

>>> 44 INTERNATIONAL price. In this way, one can eas- ily find a wine in the 100 Swedish crown class (€10). It is also easy to find wine, beer and spirits on the shelves by following the colour codes displayed around the shops. These are the same col- our codes for product groups that were previously used in catalogues. This new setup also makes it easier for customers to find the more ex- pensive wines, as they are now also on display on the shelves. It is hoped that in the long term this will help increase the consump- tion of the better premium wines, something that will hopefully ben- efit everyone.

Time will tell whether the new tran- sition is a success or not. The aim of increasing customer awareness instore is in line with what is hap- pening in the major supermarket chains in the country.

45 INTERNATIONAL the autumn budget promises raised taxes text: Christopher Jarnvall

The Christian Democrat Party (who are part of a 4 party coalition) managed to push through its demand to raise taxes on alcohol in this year’s autumn budget. It means a price increase of 2 Swedish Crowns per bottle of wine and 40 öre on a bottle of beer. The spirits will only increase marginally. This increase corresponds to a 7% increase on beer and wine while the tax on spirits will go up by only 1%. It is estimated that government income will be boosted by 730 million Swedish Crowns more per annum (€83.8 mill).

With a record-high Swedish crown, volume. Already ‘vodka cars’ are We all know what the position is; especially against the Euro, those on the increase - cruising around, nevertheless the Minister respon- halcyon days will become even selling indiscriminately to young sible is not particularly worried sweeter for German retailers along revelers. It’s a lucrative business that the increased taxes will lead the border with Scandinavia. It for criminal networks, where the to increased smuggling. She ar- wouldn’t be surprising if illegal illegal alcohol trade is often a part gues that the Swedes have more imports of alcohol becomes even of a larger operation. money to spend, hence the tax more profitable and increases in increase. >>>

46 INTERNATIONAL

Anders Borg, Chancellor of the toms and Excise authorities and tion, a recently published HUI Exchequer, is satisfied. Unfortu- the police force. report outlines the dangers of rais- nately the Swedish alcohol policy ing the price on alcohol too much. This could have some effect, but is not so much about social con- only in part. Sweden is not an The parties in the governing Alli- siderations but more about boost- isolated island; it is positioned in ance have differing opinions on ing the state’s coffers. Swedes may the middle of Europe’s traffic flow raising the tax. The Christian actually have no difficulty in gain- and is, along with Norway, a very Democrats and Liberals have been ing access to alcohol despite the profitable market for smugglers. in favour of a raise, usually citing government’s intentions, but the The smuggling won’t stop at our the effects of alcohol on public Treasury is well aware that you borders. This is the reality we re- health. However, the Conserva- can’t raise taxes too much. If you signed ourselves to in 1995 when tives, and particularly the Center tighten the screws too much, legal we joined the EU. party held back, primarily to consumption will drop off. Despite these increased taxes, study the implications for cross- Many others - particularly young enough people will continue to border shopping, before deciding people – will find ways to get hold buy their alcohol legally, which upon a possible tax increase. of cheaper alcohol. The “Vodka means 730 million Swedish Sweden must take into account the Express” is open 24 hours a day, crowns- to the exchequer! rest of the world on this matter. seven days a week! The Euro is at a record low level Many people – everyone from the compared to the Swedish crown temperance movement to the beer, Why Is this then? and the fact that Denmark recent- wine and spirits industry – are all Well 730 million Swedish crowns ly lowered its beer tax as a coun- agreed that trading illegally in al- a year is not exactly peanuts. The ter-measure to the influx of Ger- cohol is evil, but proposed rem- Chancellor’s original idea was to man beer and to protect the Dan- edies vary. The industry itself ad- raise taxes on beer and wine by ish brewing industry all makes vocates lower taxes and therefore 13% and on spirits by five per- it rather attractive to would-be lower prices to restore commercial cent. TheT reasury Department smugglers. This naturally con- volume to the legal market. The was made aware of the risks of do- cerns those who want an increase temperance movement does not ing this and these were highlight- in alcohol tax. want to sacrifice traditional Swed- ed by the high-profile crackdown No radical decisions will be taken on smugglers from Germany and ish alcohol policy but suggest that in Sweden, at least not until a gen- Denmark into Sweden with cars the illegal market be combated by eral election looms on the horizon. increasing resources to the Cus- stuffed to the gunnels. In addi-

47 INTERNATIONAL

Nyhet! Nu på Systembolagets hyllor Le Bertille Rosso di 2011

Artikel nummer 2380-01 Pris: 98 kr Importör: VINLUSEN AB

www.vinlusenab.se

Alkohol är beroendeframkallande

48 INTERNATIONAL

Våra medlemmar

Altia Sweden AB Berntson Brands Caro Vin AB Box 271 44, 115 28 Stockholm Torsgatan 13 Box 24 005 115 28 Stockholm 111 23 Stockholm 104 50 Stockholm Tel +46 (8) -557 790 00 Tel: +46 (8)-610 06 90 Tel +46 (8)-505 515 00 Email: firstname.lastname@altiacor- Fax: +46 (8)-610 06 99 Fax +46 (8)-651 09 96 poration.com Email: [email protected] Homepage: www.carovin.se Homepage: www.altia.se Homepage: www.berntsonbrands.se Cezar Group Arcus Sweden AB Bergs Vinhandel Margaretetorp Birger Jarlsgatan 20 Skalldalsvägen 47 266 98 Hjärnarp 114 34 Stockholm 436 52 Hovås Tel: +46 (431)-45 46 20 Tel +46 (8) -545 534 30 Tel: +46 760002350 Fax: +46 (431)-45 46 44 Fax +46 (8)-545 534 39 Email: marcus@bergsvinhandel. Homepage: www.cezargroup.com Email: [email protected] Homepage: www.bergsvinhandel.se Homepage: www.arcus.no Concha Y Toro Bergslagens Destilleri Birger Jarlsgatan 2 Arvid Nordquist Vin och Sprithandel Pettersbergsvägen 2A 114 34 Stockholm Ekensbergsvägen 117 703 69 Örebro Tel: +48 (8)- 505 667 60 Box 1285 Tel: +46 733 189 000 Fax: +46 (8)- 505 65 299 171 25 Solna Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Tel: +46 (8)-799 18 00 Homepage: Homepage: www.cytsweden.se Fax: +46 (8)-29 60 99 www.bergslagensdestilleri.se Email: [email protected] DIAGEO SWEDEN AB Homepage: www.arvid-nordquist.se Bibendum St Eriksgatan 46A Sandhamnsgatan 63 Box 49 159 Bacardi AB 115 28 Stockholm 1oo 29 Stockholm Wallingatan 2 Tel: +46 (8)-598 110 00 Tel: +46 (8)-508 820 00 111 60 Stockholm Email: [email protected] Fax: +46 (8)-729 00 49 Tel: 0+46 (8) - 566 480 00 Homepage: www.bibendum.se Homepage: www.diageo.com E:mail: [email protected], Homepage: www.bacardi.se Bornicon & Salming AB Darom AB Spirits & Liqueurs Holländargatan 17 Elbegatan 4-6 Backafallsbyn AB/ Spirits of Hven 111 60 Stockholm 211 20 Malmö Norreborgsvägen 55 Tel: +46 (8)-32 02 20 Tel: +46 (40) 782 50 260 13 Sankt Ibb Fax: +46 (8)-32 02 10 Homepage: www.darom.se Tel: +46 (418) 44 99 99 Homepage: www.bornicon-salming.se Homepage: www.backafallsbyn.se, Domaine Wines & Spirits AB www.hven.se Box Destilleri AB Holländargatan 20 Box Kraftverk 140 111 60 Stockholm 1872 96 Bjärtrå Tel: +46 (8)-20 61 00 Tel: +46 (70)552 78 28 Homepage: www.domaine.se Homepage: www.boxwhisky.se >>>

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Edrington Sweden AB Heering LO Smith Luntmakargtan 45 Regeringsgatan 111 Blombergs Säteri 102 47 Stockholm Box 73 27, 103 90, Stockholm 533 93 Källby Tel: +46 (8)-440 83 00 Tel: +(8) 412 60 40 Tel: +46 (0)- 510 54 20 14 Fax: +46 (8)-20 87 80 Homepage: www.heering.com Email:[email protected] Email: [email protected] Homepage: www.losmith.se Homepage: www.edrington.se Henkell & Co Hangövägen 29, positionen 4 Mackmyra Svensk Whisky Fondberg Sweden 115 42 Stockholm Hantverkargatan 5, hus 5 Linnégatan 87D Tel: +(8) 120 90 400 112 21 Stockholm 115 23 Stockholm Stockholm Email: [email protected] Tel: +46 (8)-5560 25 80 Tel: +46 (8)- 555 292 00 Homepage: www.henkell-sverige.se Email: [email protected] Homepage: www.fondberg.se Homepage: www.mackmyra.se Hermansson & Co Grythyttan Whisky Sturegatan 6 Malmköpings Nya Spritbolag Ekeberg Box 72 45, 103 83 Stockholm Landsvägsgatan 3 705 98 Lillkyrka Tel: +46 (8)-587 410 80 642 60 Malmköping Tel: +46 (19) 761 79 00 Fax: +46 (8)-587 410 89 Tel: +46 157 201 90 Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Homepage: www.grythyttanwhisky.se Homepage: www.hermanssonco.se Homepage: www.malmasb.se

Giertz Vinimport AB Juvinum AB Miguel Torres Sverige AB Bredgränd 2 Frihamnen, Magasin 6, uppg 2, 4 tr Kungsgatan 87 111 30 Stockholm 115 56 Stockholm 112 27 Stockholm Tel: +46 (8)-21 83 88 Tel: +46 (8)-663 18 81 Tel: +46 (8)-545 833 91 Fax: +46 (8)-21 33 82 Fax: +46 (8)-663 18 83 Homepage: www.torres.se Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Homepage: www.giertz.se Modern Wines AB Kanon AB Linnegatan 87 D Granqvist Vinagentur AB Sågkärrsvägen 20 Box 27225 Vulcanön, Vulcans Väg 1 647 51 Åkers Stycke bruk 102 53 Stockholm 522 30 TIDAHOLM Tel: 0159-800 300 Tel +46 (8)-10 33 66 Tel: +46 (502)-148 88 E-post: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Fax: +46 (502)-158 88 Hemsida: Homepage: www.modernwines.se Email: [email protected] www.gripsholmdistillery.com Homepage: www.granqvist-vin.se NO1 Brands Kiviks Musteri AB Getingevägen 12 Handpicked wines Karakås 461 65 Trollhättan Prinz väg 19 277 35 Kivik Tel +46 (520)-48 05 40 142 66 Trångsund Tel: +46 (414) - 719 00 Fax +46 (520)- 48 05 44 Tel: +46 (8)-510 691 00 Email:[email protected] Email: [email protected] Homepage: Homepage: www.akessonvin.se, Homepage: www.no1.se www.handpickedwines.se www.kiviksmusteri.se NIGAB Heba Food and Beverages AB LO Smith Energigatan 12 Box 142 Blombergs Säteri Box 10296, 434 23 Kungsbacka 372 22 Ronneby 533 93 Källby Tel: +46 (300)-180 20 Tel: +46 (457)-240 85 Tel: +46 (0)- 510 54 20 14 Fax: +46 (300)-121 53 Fax: +46(457)-206 20 Email:[email protected] Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Homepage: www.losmith.se Homepage: www.nigab.se Homepage: www.heba.se

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Oenoforos AB Purity Vodka AB Spirits of Gold AB Box 24 005, 104 50 Stockholm Kansligatan 1B Box 7350, 103 90 Stockholm Tel +46 (8)-651 09 95 211 22 Malmö Tel: +46 (8) 660 32 10 Fax +46 (8)-651 09 96 Tel: +46 (40) 20 47 60 Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Homepage: www.purityvodka.com Homepage: www.spiritsofgold.com Homepage: www.oenoforos.se The Absolute company Saturnus AB Årsta Ängsväg 19 A Pernod Ricard Sweden AB Bronsyxegatan 11 117 97 Stockholm Årstaängsvägen 19A Box 9040, 200 39 Malmö Tel: +46 (8)- 744 73 53 117 97 Stockholm Tel: +46 (40)-671 19 00 Homepage: www.absolut.com Tel: +46 (8)-744 70 00 Fax: +46 (40)-671 19 39 Email: Email: [email protected] Treasury Wine Estate [email protected] Homepage: www.saturnus.se Birger Jarlsgatan 55 Homepage: 111 45 Stockholm www.pernod-ricard-sweden.com Stellan Kramer AB Tel: +46 (8)- 696 96 00 PO Box 111 Homepage: www.twegolbal.com PhilipsonSöderberg 102 12 Danderyd Sandhamnsgatan 62 Tel: +46 (8)-544 905 90 VinUnic AB 115 28 Stockholm Fax: +46 (8)-544 905 99 Regeringsgatan 109 Tel: +46 (8)- 598 112 00 Email: [email protected] Box 7471, 114 44 Stockholm Email: [email protected] Homepage: www.stellankramer.se Tel: +46 (8)-660 84 15 Homepage: Fax: +46 (8)-660 84 53 www.philipsonsoderberg.se Spendrups Vin Email: [email protected] Vårby Allé 39 Homepage: www.vinunic.se Prime Wine Sweden 143 40 Vårby Södra Hamnvägen 9, Tel: +46 (8)- 672 77 00 Hus K, Frihamnen Email: [email protected] 115 56 Stockholm Homepage: www.spendrup.se Tel: +46 (8)-679 52 00 Fax: +46 (8)-679 52 13 Email: [email protected] Homepage: www.primewine.se

Fine Dining

INTERNATIO NAL wine DININGseptember 2013 INTERNATION

AL DINING Välkommen till Fine Dining Fine Dining INTERNATION – hela världens mötesplats i SverigeDINING Välkommen som prenumerant på AL

ine INTERNATIONdining Fine Dining AL

Din egen tidning som handlar om just det – fine dining. Kommer 4 gånger om året och till din egen mailbox om du vill. Anmäl dig utan kostnad som prenumerant nu eller ge Fine Dining till en god vän – en present som räcker hela året.

Skicka dina kontaktuppgifter och mailadress till: [email protected] 51 INTERNATIONAL WebAuc tion special

Online auction Oct 7 to 9

By: Sören Nylund

The auction will feature approximately 400 lots, when col- lectibles come under the hammer in this autumn’s first wine and whisky auction. The total volume of sold lots is expected to realize €230,267 against an estimated value of €207,240. The September auction elicited strong interest in vintage champagne. There were more than 100 lots of champagne of various vintages and sizes. As an example, two bottles Comtes de Champagne 1976 reached a price of €1,554 compared to the estimate of €690. Seven bottles of Dom Pérignon 1980 went for £21,000, £7,000 more than the es- timate. A case of 6 bottles of Bollinger Grande Année 1996 valued at €967 achieved a final price €1,610. and in some cases have exceeded the major international There are many more examples worth highlighting. Cham- auctions. pagne of good vintage and with proven storage prove- nance saw the bids climbing; prices were far higher in Swe- An example of this includes a large collection of Château den than at other similar auctions. Mouton Rothschild. A total of 76 different vintages aroused great interest in June 2013 with a lot containing four bot- The largest turnover was in red wines from Bordeaux. As tles (1945-1949) selling for €13,815 against an estimate of in all international auctions, sales of Bordeaux typically €7,830. account for 60-70% of total wines on offer. We’re seeing a growing trade in wines from Champagne, Burgundy, Italy Final prices in September 2013 leave us wondering if Cha- and California. Swedish sales have generally been stable teau Lafite is heading back towards record price levels? A >>>

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bottle of 1982 vintage went for €1,785. Even a 12-bottle In October we will see several interesting and unusual items case of Chateau Lynch-Bages 2008 vintage reached €1,785 such as Dom Pérignon 1961 and 1964 in magnums. There against an estimate of €968. 12 bottles of Chateau Pi- will be full cases of Pétrus 1987, Latour 1989, and even a chon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 1999 also achieved Romanee Conti 1978 single bottle along with several wines €1,785, compared to the estimate of €828. from the same winery, DRC. Armand de Brignac Gold in a 6-litre bottle, known as a Methuselah, will be vying for at- Very high prices for collectors’ whisky and other distillates of tention alongside a wide selection of Californian wines odd vintages have been noted in Sweden. The same applies which include Harlan, Bond, Koningsgaard and Ovid. to unique products in collectible limited editions which are in great demand. On the spirits side we will see lots of Ardbeg whisky in several varieties and vintages of Rare Malts Selection, and The Swedish auction market for fine wines in relation to the some rare, old rum. major foreign markets is still quite small by comparison, but it is growing every year. Global sales at beverage auctions We offer valuations throughout the autumn. By complet- amount to in excess of €287 million. The three largest inter- ing the evaluation form, you can receive information about national players account for more than €172.7 million, while the items that qualify as collectibles and also have them in Sweden the annual turnover is around €1.8 million. appraised. We also have open evaluation days where you are most welcome to come along to meet us and have your We have planned for additional beverage auctions this sea- bottles appraised for sale at auction. son with upcoming auctions between 7-9 October and 11- 13 November and the season finale on 9-11 December.

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Peter Thustrup Online auction Oct 7 to 9

Grands Échézeaux 1973 200703 - Wine DRC, Côte de Nuits, Grand Cru 1 bottle of 1975 Ch Mouton Rothschild Stored in private cellar An aromatic Mouton, with its trademark blackcurrant fla- Danish tax label vour, this wine should be drunk soon. Tasted 17 times, most 1 bottle testers awarded 87-90/100. Soft and pleasant, but there may be a risk of oxidation. Pay 85/100 attention to the colour. To pay more than 3000 Swedish Estimate: €165 crowns would be risky. 85/100 200709 - Wine Estimate : €345 1 bottle of 1981 Ch Mouton Rothschild Classic, good fruit, charming perfumed nose, still relatively 205969 - 2006 Romanée - Conti, DRC tight - would benefit from being decanted an hour before. Romanée - Conti 2006 Tested 12 times. DRC , Côte de Nuits , Grand Cru 88-91/100 Bottle No. 03731 Estimate : €185 Stored in private cellar 1 bottle 200715 - Wine Beautifully refined with perfect balance, extremely complex 1 bottle of 1984 Ch Mouton Rothschild with good length, but still young. Has not reached even 50 One of the best of 1984’s severe vintage. Mouton was suc- % of its potential. cessful, in that it is 95% Cabernet . Good classic Bordeaux 95/100 structure and some blackcurrant. Has softened, but a little Estimate : €520 dry, relatively complex. Tested 11 times and given 87-91/100 205975 - 2006 Grands Échézeaux , DRC 90/100 Grands Échézeaux 2006 Estimate: €185 DRC , Côte de Nuits , Grand Cru Bottle No. 06786 200727 - Wine Stored in private cellar 1 bottle of 1985 Ch Mouton Rothschild 1985 1 bottle I’ve always liked the Mouton 1985. Not a pretentious wine, Relatively mellow, already very enjoyable with good but always damn good. Tried 13 times 90-94/100 balance, dense fruit, fine tannins. Spicy with good length. Estimate : €230 92/100, Estimate: €460

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200728 - Wine 202246 - Wine 1 bottle of 1986 Ch Mouton Rothschild 1 bottle of Ch Margaux 1983 Tried repeatedly (20 times). From 1990 to 1993, this was my Deliciously soft and classy with ripe fruit; rather more re- favourite, with concentrated fruit and slightly dry tannins I fined than round and complex. Wonderful 1990-2005, but gave it 92-100/100. Over recent years it has become dry, since then I feel it has lost some fruit and complexity - this rigid and dull; still potentially a great wine but hard for me may be due to the bottles I tried. Tasted 30 times 87-95/100 to know what to think now. Maybe going through a difficult 88/100 period ? Estimate : €288 90 + ? / 100 Estimate : €460 202248 - Wine 200731 - Wine 1 bottle Ch Haur Brion 1983 1 bottle of 1988 Ch Mouton Rothschild Beautiful and smoky, well-balanced with good concentra- Good, but now a relatively hard Mouton, I find it difficult to tion. Moderate complexity, it is pleasant without being ‘get into’ this wine. Not particularly complex, but clean with great, except for one bottle, tested in 2000, which was out- some enjoyment. Tried 12 times 87-90/100 standing. I rated it 94/100. 86/100 Tried 7 times 86-94/100 89/100 200816 - 1982 Chateau Mouton Baronne Philippe Château Mouton Baronne Philippe 1982 Really good, typical 1982, soft, mature, pleasant; a delightful wine to enjoy with lunch. 88/100 Estimate : €485

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AUCTION OF FINE & RARE WINES Saturday, OctOber 5th, 2013 ~ 10:00aM

“Acker Autumn”

at Marea Restaurant, 240 Central Park South, New York SEARCH AND BID ONLINE WWW.ACKERWINES.COM TOLL FREE Tel: 877.ACKER.47 • Fax: 877.ACKER.24 • Email: [email protected]

October 5th Sale By John Kapun

Lots 309 - 435 is our first anchor of the sale. This is a collection that extends well beyond a single country. We’ll start with a nice dispute with which to get involved. It will be a long time before the debate is settled about which Bordeaux vintage from the 2000s is the best.

Votes are represented by cases of 2005 Cheval Blanc, Cos, Margaux and Latour plus 2009 Brane Cantenac, Hosanna, Leoville Poyferre, Pontet Canet and Pape Clement on of- fer. Big time Burgundy makes its voice heard via cases of 1988 La Tache, 1990 Clos de Tart, 1996 Vogue Bonnes Mares plus bottles of 1993 and 2002 Drouhin Musigny, 1999 Roumier Musigny with many more gems beyond these – take a look. Rhone is showcased by Beaucastel, Pegau, Guigal, Rayas and Chave. Iconic Clos Ste. Hune is offered. Shifting the dialogue from French to Italian makes for a seamless transition. Some of the greatest red wines I’ve drunk have come from Giacosa. There are three vintages from the eighties of his wonderful Bar- baresco Santo Stefano Riserva. Add in Voerzio, Dal Forno and Gaja to make sure Italy’s brilliance is presented plus Screaming Eagle, Harlan and a vertical of Grange and you have a wonderful collection. Lots 309-435 has some- thing for everyone!

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Our next featured collection, Lots 436–546 is from a man Creek? That initial, less well-known group is headed where with wonderfully definitive views on a range of subjects. It’s those latter seven are today – fame and acclaim. You know tough to argue with what’s in his cellar. He wisely bought what the market does after that. This collection has all of parcels of 1995 Ducru, 1996 Pichon Lalande, 1998 and 1999 those mentioned plus other you do should get to know. Guigal La Landonne, 2001 Jamet, 1998 Sorrel and 1990 Dom. These won’t be insiders’ wines for long. And you already Those alone are persuasive choices, as are the Burgundies. know how wonderful their more famous colleagues are A case of 1988 Rousseau Chambertin and two cases of 1999 among Lots 244-308. DRC Duval-Blochet in OWC are impressive, worthy of seri- ous cellars. Lots from Leroy, Dujac, Roumier Dugat, Dugat- Next we return to the motherland, France, via Lots 655-722 Py and d’Angerville reinforce this collector’s wisdom about with wines justifiably famous for decades and longer… Burgundy. As do the white Burgundies, all from our favorite such as 1949 Leroy Richebourg, 1969 DRC Richebourg, grand and premier cru vineyards and winemakers - Coche, 1999 Mugnier Musigny, Roumier Bonnes Mares, rare Ra- Ramonet, Leflaive, Jadot, Niellon and Sauzet. Rare treasures monet from the 1980s, Rayas, Beaucastel Hommage, Bon- here amidst the white are two of the most famous Montra- neau Celestins and Chave Cuvee Cathelin. chets ever made: the 1996 DRC Montrachet and 1982 Ra- Beautifully cellared such as the wonderful monet Montrachet. Don’t miss a case of Clos Ste. Hune , one 1975 and 1990 Dom Perignon Oenotheque, and four vin- of the few whites that competes with great white Burgundy. tages all in large format of Pol Roger Winston Churchill in- The entire collection comes to us from professional storage cluding its first vintage are plentiful too . This collector was in England. far from chauvinistic which is why you’ll find ten magnums Our third featured collection is unique. It contains California of Harlan, a superb Screaming Eagle vertical, Colgin and winemakers and estates that are secrets among insiders – SQN in quantity. Every wine in Lots 655-722 has been prop- albeit only temporarily because the wines are that impres- erly stored. sive. Lots 244-308 contain both a beautiful range of cut- And we barely scratched the surface of the gems in this ting edge and already famous west coast winemakers. Let’s auction. I’ll tempt you with a few of the greats. Petrus 1959 go around the room. Raise your hand if you have heard of (1958 too), Vogue Musigny back to 1949 – an impressive Thomas Rivers Brown, Luc Morlet, Martha McClellan, Aaron verticals - magnums of Dujac, many more great Burgundy Pott and Maggie Harrison? I see a few raised hands from producers. Full cases of legends from Italy like Conterno the star students. How about SQN, Colgin, Bryant, Scream- Montfortino and Bartolo Mascarello. More Giacosa (there’s ing Eagle. Harlan (magnums), Kistler and Quilceda never too much ) and far more from that great land. There is also a wealth of great, old Spanish wines including CVNE, Lopez de Heredia and Vega Sicilia back to 1941.

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XXIX

October 26th in Grissini at the Grand HyattHotel, HONG KONG

• A spectacular 24 vintage vertical of Romanée Conti (lot 512) • A Lucky 8 case, vintage vertical of increasingly rare DRC assortments (lot 513) • An incredible 63-vintage vertical of Lafite (lot 349) • A rare 40 vintage vertical of Petrus (lot 445A) • A 68-vintage vertical of monumental Mouton (lot 349A) • A 61-vintage vertical of the beautiful Chateau Margaux (lot 445) • A 23-vintage vertical celebrates every single vintage of Masseto (lot 540) • A monumental 10-vintage vertical of Sassacaia in Double Magnums (lot 539) • A near-complete 14-vintage vertical collection of Sassic- aia in Magnums (lot 538A)

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SOTHEBY’S HONG KONG PRESENTS TWO IMPORTANT SINGLE-OWNER WINE SALES ON 5 OCTOBER

Hong Kong, 15 August 2013 Sotheby’s Hong Kong is pleased to announce the sales of an- other two important private wine collections on 5 October during its Autumn 2013 Sales Series (4 – 8 October) at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre.

The two sales - A Magnificent Bordeaux Cellar and Impor- tant Burgundy and Bordeaux From A Private Cellar – will offer a total of over 800 lots, expected to fetch HK$43 – 60 million / US$5.5 – 7.8 million*. In addition to the ex-cellar sale of Domaine Clarence Dillon: Wines Direct from the Cel- lars of Château Haut-Brion – Château Quintus – Château La Mission Haut-Brion on 4 October, these two private collec- tions cover an impressive quantity of top mature Bordeaux and rare Burgundy from the most coveted vintages, accom- panied by strong selections of wines from Champagne, the Rhône Valley, Italy and Australia.

A Magnificent Bordeaux Cellar 10 am, 5 October This magnificent collection features 288 lots estimated at HK$14 – 20 million / US$1.8 - 2.6 million. Topclass Bordeaux – the five First Growths plus Château Cheval Blanc - from the best vintages are available, such as 1982, 1986, 1989, 1990, 1995, 1996, 2000. Many of these are offered in parcel quantities - 10 cases of Château Mouton Rothschild 2000, 8 cases of Château Cheval Blanc 2000 and 8 cases of Château

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Margaux 2000. For Sauternes lovers, there is also an impres- great appeal. One of the exciting elements of this collection sive selection of Château d’Yquem from the most excellent is the preponderance of legendary wines at their beautiful vintages over the past 30 years, such as 1975, 1988, 1990 maturity, absolutely ready to drink, after suitable ‘resting’ and 2001. In addition, rare vertical selections of Vega Sicilia following delivery. One has only to look at the ‘forest’ of First Único spanning 5 decades (1941 - 1999) with labels signed Growth 1982s to start salivating. Mature wines are rarely by Pablo Alvarez are also on offer. available at restaurants, unless you bring your own, so it is Commenting on this Bordeaux cellar, Serena Sutcliffe, Mas- wise to stock up. And then there is the generous amount of ter of Wine (M. W.), Head of Sotheby’s International Wine 2000s at top level – do make sure your grandchildren and Department, said: “This is a classic collection of stunning great-grandchildren have something suitable to drink at wine, utterly desirable bottles of pristine provenance and the turn of this century!”

SALE HIGHLIGHTS: Château Haut-Brion • 6 Lots: 1982 (12 bottles) – Est. HK$48,000 – 70,000 / US$6,000 – 9,000 • 5 Lots: 1989 (12 bottles) – Est. HK$100,000 – 140,000 / US$13,000 – 18,000 • 8 Lots: 1995 (12 bottles) – Est. HK$30,000 – 42,000 / US$3,750 – 5,500

Château La Mission Haut-Brion • 4 Lots: 1982 (12 bottles) – Est. HK$70,000 – 100,000 / US$9,000 – 13,000 • 4 Lots: 1989 (12 bottles) – Est. HK$70,000 – 100,000 / US$9,000 – 13,000 • 4 Lots: 2000 (12 bottles) – Est. HK$50,000 – 70,000 / US$6,500 – 9,000

Château Lafite • 4 Lots: 1981 (1 Imperial) – Est. HK$28,000 – 40,000 / US$3,500 – 5,000 • 6 Lots: 1986 (12 bottles) – Est. HK$90,000 – 130,000 / US$12,000 –17,000 • 7 Lots: 1996 (12 bottles) – Est. HK$80,000 – 110,000 / US$10,000 –14,000 • 4 Lots: 2000 (12 bottles) – Est. HK$110,000 – 150,000 / US$14,000– 19,000 (pictured right) • 2 Lots: 1982 (12 bottles) – Est. HK$240,000 – 380,000 / US$30,000– 50,000

Château Latour • 5 Lots: 1996 (12 bottles) – Est. HK$55,000 – 75,000 / US$7,000 – 9,500 • 4 Lots: 2000 (12 bottles) – Est. HK$80,000 – 110,000 / US$10,000 – 14,000

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Château Margaux • 4 Lots: 1982 (12 bottles) – Est. HK$60,000 – 80,000 / • US$7,500 – 10,000 • 8 Lots: 1996 (12 bottles) – Est. HK$40,000 – 55,000 / • US$5,000 – 7,000 • 8 Lots: 2000 (12 bottles) – Est. HK$70,000 – 110,000 / • US$9,000 – 14,000 (pictured left)

Château Mouton Rothschild • 8 Lots: 1986 (12 bottles) – Est. HK$60,000 – 80,000 / • US$7,500 – 10,000 • 10 Lots: 2000 (12 bottles) – Est. HK$65,000 – 90,000 / • US$8,500 – 12,000 (pictured on p1) • 3 Lots: 2000 (1 Jeroboam) – Est. HK$80,000 – 110,000 / • US$10,000 – 14,000

Château Cheval Blanc • 4 Lots: 1990 (12 bottles) – Est. HK$65,000 – 90,000 / US$8,500 – 12,000 • 4 Lots: 1998 (12 bottles) – Est. HK$30,000 – 44,000 / US$3,750 – 5,500 • 8 Lots: 2000 (12 bottles) – Est. HK$60,000 – 85,000 / US$7,500 – 11,000

Château d’Yquem • 6 Lots: 1990 (12 bottles) – Est. HK$36,000 – 48,000 / US$4,500 – 6,000 • 2 Lots: 1990 (24 half bottles) – Est. HK$36,000 – 48,000 / US$4,500 – 6,000

Important Burgundy And Bordeaux From A Private Cellar Approx. 12:30pm, 5 October

This is an exceptional collection of the finest Burgundy and ing Domaine de la Romanée Conti, Domaine Leroy, Do- Bordeaux wines, alongside a superb selection from Cham- maine Comte Georges de Vögué plus Henri Jayer, Domaine pagne, Italy and Australia. Of particular note, significant par- Coche-Dury and Domaine Leflaive, among others. 250 lots cel quantities of mature wines are being offered which are of Bordeaux provide collectors looking for significant quan- rarely seen in any market. Over 500 lots estimated at HK$29 tities of top mature wines an exceptional opportunity with – 40 million / US$3.7 – 5.2 million will be featured. 1982 and 1990 - two of the best vintages of the 20th century - creating the backbone of the collection. An unheard-of 46 Over 150 lots of rare red and white Burgundy from the re- cases of the legendary Château Haut-Brion 1989 highlight gion’s most celebrated wineries begin the auction, includ- the Bordeaux section with other important parcels includ-

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ing Château Mouton Rothschild 1982 (26 cases), Château the two are intimately connected! The depth and breadth of Cheval Blanc 1982 (12 cases), Château Margaux 1990 (12 this starry array of names is breathtaking, but the bouquet cases), Château Latour 1990 (14 cases) and Château Le Pin and flavours of the wines are celestial. It is extremely rare to 1990 (3 cases). come across bottles, and cases, of this calibre and the quan- tities involved make one gasp. Many of Asia’s most enthusi- Top Rhône wines from Chave, Chapoutier, Rayas and Jabou- astic and knowledgeable wine lovers were too young to buy let follow plus excellent Champagne from Dom Pérignon these vintages as ‘futures’, so a collection such as this pre- and Krug. Italy’s Super Tuscans are present in benchmark sents a phenomenal opportunity to ‘catch up’ and acquire vintages such 1990 and 1997, and Australia’s finest in the them when they are at their show-stopping best.” form of Penfolds Grange and Clarendon Hills Astralis round off the auction. All wines were inspected by Sotheby’s experts at a profes- sional storage facility in Bordeaux and were shipped to Talking about this important cellar of Bordeaux and Bur- Hong Kong via dedicated temperature controlled ocean gundy, Serena Sutcliffe, Master of Wine (M. W.), Head of freight. Many of the wines in this sale were previously pur- Sotheby’s International Wine Department, remarked: “This chased from Sotheby’s auctions in New York and London. great wine collection is all about pedigree and pleasure –

SALE HIGHLIGHTS: Burgundy Domaine de la Romanée Conti: • 4 lots: Echézeaux 1990 Domaine de la Romanée Conti (12 bottles) – Est. HK$90,000 – 120,000/ US$12,000 – 15,000 • 1 lot: La Tâche 1990 Domaine de la Romanée Conti (12 bottles) – Est. HK$320,000 – 480,000 / US$40,000 – 60,000 • 4 lots: Richebourg 1990 Domaine de la Romanée Conti (12 bottles) – Est. HK$180,000 – 260,000 / US$22,500 – 32,500 • 1 lot: Romanée Conti 1990 Domaine de la Romanée Conti (6 bottles) – Est. HK$600,000 – 850,000 / US$75,000 – 110,000 (pictured left) • 2 lots: La Tâche 1996 Domaine de la Romanée Conti (12 bottles) – Est. HK$200,000 – 280,000 / US$26,000 – 36,000

Henry Jayer: (pictured left) • 1 lot: Echézeaux 1991 Henry Jayer (12 bottles) – Est. HK$240,000 – 360,000 / US$30,000 – 45,000 • 2 lots: Vosne Romanée, Cros Parantoux 1991 Henri Jayer (12 bottles) – Est. HK$280,000 – 400,000 / US$35,000 – 50,000 Comte Georges de Vogüé: • 1 lot: Musigny, Cuvée Vieilles Vignes 1990 Comte Georges de Vogüé (12 bottles) – Est. HK$50,000 – 70,000 / US$6,500 – 9,000 Domaine Leflaive: • 3 lots: Bâtard Montrachet 1992 Domaine Leflaive (12 bottles) – Est. HK$48,000 – 65,000 / US$6,000 – 8,000

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Sotheby’s to offer grand vintage collection champagnes direct from the cellar of moËt & chandon for sale at Sotheby’s London on 13 November 2013.

Auction celebrates Moet & Chandon’s 270th Anniversary. Nearly a century of Champagne vintages for sale at Sotheby’s London on 13 November 2013.

London – Continuing its tradition of bringing to market wines have been stored since production. Each vintage has rare and extraordinary wines. Sotheby’s is delighted to an- been selected by Moet & Chandon’s Chef de Cave, Benoit nounce a sale wich celebrates Moët & Chandon’s 270th anni- Gouez and Sotheby’s International Head of Wine, Serena versary with an offering of Champagnes which span nearly Sutcliffe MW. a century – from 2004 to 1914. Sotheby’s auction of Grand The auction comprises 270 bottles of Blanc and Rose Vintage Collection Champagnes direct from the cellars of Champagnes to celebrate the House’s 270 1 anniver- Moët & Chandon, in partnership with the legendary French sary, together with 174 magnumsand three jeroboams, to House, will take place at Sotheby’s London on 13 November honour its foundation in 1743 by Claude Moet. The 74lots 2013. This selection of Champagne has never previously left will be offered in Sotheby’s sale of Finest & Rarest Wines and Moët & Chandons 28 km of cellars in Epernay wher all the overall, they are estimated to bring in excess of £100,000.

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Serena Sutcliffe MW, Worldwide Head of Sotheby’s Wine De- partment, said “We have never before heldan auction of this sca/e, with such a selection of rare and fine Champagnes from one pro- ducer. /t is a truly historie range - one that offers you the chance to step into the heritage of the Moet cellars. l tastedthe legendary 1914 with Beno/t earlier this year and it is superlative. Tasting such a range of extraordinary Champagnes in perfeet condition in the cellars where they have been lying for decades, some for near/y a century, is something you wi/1 remember all your Iife.” Benalt Gouez, Moet & Chandon’s Chef de Cave, comments, “There are some incredible wines in this auction, which offers a fantastic insight into Moet’s 270 year history. Some have been rest- ing in our cellars since their ‘degorgement’ up to ten years ago and show great rnaturity and complexity; but others from 1914, the ‘20s, ‘sos and ‘60s have been on their lees until their ‘degorgement’ earlier this year and show such a youthful character. 1914 wi/1 be particular/y evocative: the harvest was brought forward due to the war, and the wine took a Iong time to develop, but today it is truly remarkable.” Moet & Chandon, one of the first luxury brands, is celebrating more than a quarter of a millennium as the world’s leading Champagne. The founder’s pioneering grandson Jean Remy- Moet was one of the most important figures in the history of Champagne, introducing his family’s wine to the courts of Eu- rope. The House’s legacy flourished and continu es to this day, its name synonymous with tradition and pleasure. Soth eby’s sa le marks a very special moment in its history.

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Sotheby’s to offer rare bootles from the private cellar of Madame Lacoste-Loubat Legendary late owner of Pétrus and Latour à Pomerol In London on 23 November 2013.

Unmissable opportunity to acquire a piece of Bordeaux history. Pétrus and Latour à Pomerol reconditioned at the Châteaux especially for sale.

LONDON – Continuing its tradition of bringing to market rare and extraordinary wines. Sotheby’s is delighted to an- nounce a sale of the legendary Lacoste-Loubat cellar in its London sale of Finest & Rarest Wines on 23 October 2013. This private cellar is remarkable treasure trove of three fabu- lous Right Bank wines: Châteaux Pétrus, LaTour à Pomerol and La Fleur, bottles that have been ‘sleeping’ for decades, but are now released to wine connoisseurs around the world. The collection, comprising over 300 lots, is being sold to bebefit the Foundation ‘Le Foyer de Charité’ and is esti- mated to bring in excess of £800,000 In addition, the sale features a superb selection of Bordeaux and Burgundy from a Connoisseur, which is expected to realiseover £500,000. The wines from the Private Cellar of Madame Lacoste- Loubat have been nurtured with care and, exceptionally, in the case of Petrus and Latour a Pomerol, reconditioned at the respective Chateaux: new labels and capsules have been applied and all bottles are offered in new original wooden cases. Serena Sutcliffe MW, Worldwide Head of Sotheby’s Wine Department, comments: “/t isanimmense privilege to bring to auction the legendary Lacoste-Loubat Cellar. This is an unrnissab/e opportunity to acquire a piece of Bordeaux history. The vast majority of the wines are rnature and demanding to be drunk and appreciated, just one of the many enormous pleasures waiting to be experienced by wine lovers around the globe.” >>>

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Madame Lily Lacoste-Loubat inherited both Chateau Petrus and Chateau Latour a Pomerol in 1961 from her aunt, Madame Loubat, who had established the reputa- tion of Chateau Petrus during and after the Second World War. Tegether with these two great Pomerols, Madame Lily Lacoste-Loubat also owned the St. Emilian Grand Cru, Chateau La Fleur. The range of Chateau Petrus encompasses vintages from 1945 to 1999 and formats from bottie to double magnum. As Serena Sutcliffe MW notes, “it is especially rare to see such a !arge selection of Petrus which, coming with this re- markable history and provenance, makes this sa/e unique”. Star lots include a magnum and a bottie of Chateau Petrus 1945, estimated respectively at £12,000-16,000 and £4,400-5,000, and a magnum of Chateau Petrus 1949, whi ch carriesan estimate £l,000-9,000. The span of vintages of Chateau Latour a Pomerol is even wider, from 1929 to 1995, available in bottles and magnums. The mythical 1947 is just one of many out- standing of the fabled 1961 vintage carries an esti- mate of £40,000-50,000 for 12 bottles vintages on offer: a four-bottie Iot is estimated to bring£3,800-4,800. A com- plete case of the fabled 1961 vintage carries an estimate of £40,000-50,000 for 12 bottles (illustrated right), such a Iot never before appearing at a Sotheby’s auction in London. Collectors with a desire to campare the styles of Petrus and Latour a Pomerol can ehoase between vintages such as 1950, 1964 and 1990, all particularly delectable. The sale provides a further treat for collectors with a wine that is rarely seen at auction. Covering a mere 6.3 hectares, Serena Sutcliffe says of Chateau La Fleur: “If everthere were a ‘secret’, inside track wine, this is it!” A parce! of the 1959 vintage is estimated at £500-600 per 12-bottle case.

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