LUXURY TRAVEL Elegance in exploration of

the city’s iconic property, a 618-room ur- ban resort high atop a bluff in the histori- cal Old City (www.fairmont.com/frontenac -quebec). Delivering elegance and comfort at every turn, Frontenac rooms offer every convenience and amenity. Several floors are reserved for Fairmont Gold members, offering enhanced amenities and services. The hotel’s Le Champlain restaurant serves French and Continental dishes, while Le Cafe de la Terrasse dishes out seasonally in- spired creations by Jean Soulard, the chef for Team Canada’s Olympic squad in Lon- don this year. Hotel Le Germain-Dominion is a bou- tique property delivering homey elegance Le Manoir Richelieu in in each of its 60 rooms (www.germain La Malbaie, in the heart dominion.com). The intimate, city-center of Quebec’s property is comfortable and refined, in- region. tegrating the early 20th century with the modern. A cozy lounge with a fireplace greets guests in the hotel’s main level and By Jerry Soverinsky sonniere, an 18-room Relais & Chateaux in the coastal village of Saint-Irenee, where serves a complimentary breakfast and hotel that delivers luxury, comfort and musicians have been performing for more espresso drinks. A terrace with bar service he usual?” the bartender splendid river views (www.lapinsonniere than 30 years (www.domaineforget.com). opens during summer. asked as I ambled up to .com). An on-site sommelier guides guests No visit to Charlevoix is complete with- Auberge Saint-Antoine, a Relais & Cha- through a mesmerizing collection of more out a whale-watching excursion, and teaux property, is an architectural delight “Tthe bar in the afternoon. than 750 labels, a complement to the inn’s family-run AML Cruises is the area’s most carved out of the ruins — literally — of It was my second day at Le Manoir sophisticated cuisine. Rooms are smartly experienced operator (www.croisieresaml the Old City (www.saint-antoine.com). Richelieu in La Malbaie, an assuming decorated — think W Hotels meets coun- .com). Daily departures from Baie-Sainte- Rooms are of the highest comfort, while yet accomplished tourist destination two try inn — while a tennis court, indoor Catherine take guests for up-close views of the Panache restaurant delivers masterful hours east of in the heart of pool, spa and art gallery round out the fa- blue whales, belugas and other marine life creations in a visually stunning space that the province’s Charlevoix region (www cilities. Savor a glass of port by the stone on boats accommodating 12 to 1,000 guests. formerly housed a 19th century riverside .fairmont.com/richelieu-charlevoix). fireplace in the public living room, gazing Just 15 minutes northwest of Baie-Saint- warehouse. No detail has been overlooked I had not spent my first day wading at the hills over flowered terraces. Paul lies Emu Charlevoix, Canada’s largest at this hotel-museum concept, where cen- through bottles of the locally brewed Do- emu eco-farm (emeucharlevoix.com). Its turies-old artifacts from the hotel’s site minus Vobiscum Blanche (a tasty Belgian- A tourism ringmaster shop sells pure, hydrating emu oil among a have been unearthed, with a unique piece style ale); I had ordered exactly one drink La Malbaie is also a train ride away via range of exclusive body products. gracing each room’s entryway. A business the previous day, a generic draft beer. new, high-end rail service by way of Baie- center, cinema, spa and fitness room fea- The bartender’s recollection underscores Saint-Paul, an artist’s village and birthplace Capital ideas turing weekly yoga classes round out the the level of intimacy and attention to de- of Daniel Gauthier, co-founder of Cirque A visit to Quebec City is essential. The services at this property. tail at this nearly century-old French castle du Soleil. city harmoniously incorporates the hotel, despite having more than 400 rooms. Gauthier has played an integral role de- old and new, with a European-inspired Set atop a cliff overlooking the St. Law- veloping tourism infrastructure in Charle- center surrounded by a progressive city. rence River, the five-star hotel has amenities voix, especially in Baie-Saint-Paul. His Hotel When it comes to upscale lodging and that offer both a fully self-contained visit La Ferme is an impeccable property com- amenities, the city sets a high bar. and the perfect base from which to explore bining both rural and chic in a full-service Fairmont le Chateau Frontenac is the regional landscape that has inspired hotel (www.lemassif.com). La Ferme’s five countless painters and writers as well as pavilions offer distinct decor and ambience Right, a room at the Hotel Le Germain-Dominion in Quebec City’s Old Port district. Below, the Auberge U.S. President William Howard Taft, who in 145 rooms and lofts, a restaurant show- Saint-Antoine’s Panache restaurant. The eatery had maintained a summer residence nearby and casing Charlevoix products, a bar-lounge, been a riverside warehouse in the 19th century. christened the resort’s award-winning golf spa and gym. A multifunction venue will no course in 1925. doubt lure ambitious entertainment pro- Over the past decade, the Fairmont- ductions, with its cavernous, open-canvas owned property has spent roughly $175 design. An on-site bicycle taxi service, Char- million in upgrades, ensuring its facilities levoix Ecomobilite, offers the opportunity to are all first-rate. Foodies will be spoiled for explore the town while gaining thoughtful choice, with executive chef Patrick Tur- insights from an experienced guide (www cot incorporating the area’s finest organic .charlevoixecomobilite.com). products into his dishes. Seeking a convenient link between Baie- For a smaller-scale alternative nearby, Saint-Paul and Quebec City, Gauthier also the L’Auberge des Falaises (www.auberge renovated the local rail station. It now of- desfalaises.com) is a cozy, family-run inn fers daily, high-speed service that hugs the with 42 rooms divided between a main coastline. The avant-garde train cars, with house and adjacent pavilion. Insist on a loft-style architecture, define luxury travel. room in the pavilion, with a fireplace and With the help of Le Manoir Richelieu’s Tur- balcony that offers panoramic views of the cot, the train offers a peerless gastronomic St. Lawrence. A pool and new spa house of- experience. fer relaxation after a day hiking in the near- by hills. The restaurant serves savory dishes Rounding out Eastern Quebec prepared with mostly local ingredients. For those visiting Charlevoix in sum- For uncompromising service and refine- mer, Sunday brunch hits a high note at Do- ment in a boutique property, go to La Pin- maine Forget, a historical enclave located

24 N OVEMBER 26, 2012 WWW. TRAVELWEEKLY. COM