A ugus t, 1966, Rev. E. M. 2162 l

TAILORING PROCEDURES

Hazel L. Roberts Extension Specialist

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COOPERATIVE EXTENSION SERVICE • COLLEGE OF AGRICULTURE • WASHINGTON STATE UNIVERSITY • PULLMAN In cooperation with the United States Department of Agriculture Issued in furtherance of the Acts of May 8 and June 30, 1914, by the Washington State University Cooperative Extension Service, John P. Miller, Director August, 1966 (Rev.) E. M. 2162

TAILORING PROCEDURES

Hazel L. Roberts Extension Clothing Specialist

Tailoring may be effectively taught using a workshop method or short demon­ stration lessons.

~:~ A.s a leader training workshop, approximately four days need to be scheduled for the completion of a coat. Between six and eight leaders may be trained in this four-day period and each leader teaches the same information to six home­ makers. Conducted as a tailoring workshop, the clothing construction leaders participating need to know alteration for themselves and know the tech­ niques and· principles taught in the construction of dresses.

Some new learnings and techniques to be taught include:

Handling of fabric Preshrinking of wool--refer to Fabric and - E. B. 568 Pres sing of woolens Use of interfacing Tailored - E. B. 576 Notched collars Coat linings Other tailoring techniques

Objectives of the tailoring workshop are to:

1. clothing leaders in tailoring techniques. 2. Teach advanced clothing construction methods. 3. Teach good selection of wool fabrics. 4. Develop an appreciation for a well- tailored garment. 5. Help use time and money more effectively.

These are some of the techniques you should know and will use:

Preparation of fabric for cutting Recognizing placing a pattern on Getting right size of pattern straight of Altering pattern to fit Setting in Stays ti tc hing Making bound buttonholes E. M. 2162 Page 2

Check to see that you have all of your supplies and equipment as suggested at the preliminary meeting. The woven interfacing and muslin should be shrunk. Make or buy a ham before the first day of the workshop (E. M.P. 3 "How to Make a Pres sing Ham").

The better the working conditions, the better the-. workshop. Start promptly : on time each day. Strive for good lighting, plenty of table space, well­ adjusted machines, and good pressing equipment. Refer to E. M. 1422 for arranging your work space. Each participant needs a machine.

The leader should check all pattern alterations. After the Dress Workshop, each member should know pretty well how to alter a pattern for herself.

Lay pattern on fabric--

1. Fold right side of fabric together ready for markings and stitching. 2. Place fabric on table, grain straight, end and sides forming right angles. 3. Make necessary pattern alterations. 4. Place pattern as shown in pattern directions, observing the up and down of fabric weave. 5. Check pattern markings for straight of grain. 6. pattern to fabric.

CUT THE COMPLETE GA.RMENT

Mark crosswise and lengthwise grainline on pattern as indicated in Figures 1 and 2 of Garment Fitting E. M. 2246.

- On straight of grain mark a line for padding on the undercollar pattern. This marking should stay within the 5/8 inch allowance. (Fig. 1, page 5)

- the coat, facings, linings and interfacing.

Cut accurately with long strokes. The cutting line becomes the guide line for stitching.

Cutting the Lining -

Check your pattern - when back neck facing : is used, the back neck. line of the lining is cut differently than the body of the coat. E. M. 2162 Page 3

Jacket Lining - Allow 112 inch pleat in the center back of the jacket lining.

Most jacket patterns· allow for an l-112 inch hem. hems are usually 1-112 inch. A . little is needed in the length of the lining. One-quarter inch ease is allowed if the lining is cut off at the fold line of jacket and sleeve hems . Cut the lining longer if more ease is desired.

Coat Lining- Allow l inch pleat in center back of coat lining.

Coa:t hems are usually from 2 to 2-112 inches.

For a finished 1-l I 4 inch hem in the coat lining:

Cut the lining l-112 inches shorter than the wool if the coat is to have a 2 - l I 2 inch hem.

Cut the lining l inch shorter than the wool if the coat is to have a 2 inch hem.

Cut the lining a little longer if a hem wider than 1-114 inches is desired.

Front and Interfacing

Use woven interfacing fabric for the front and collar. Interfacing fabric of wool, and goat hair blend is good for tailoring. Choose· a weight of interfacing fabric which will go with the wool. Some interfacing fabric will need to be shrunk.

Cut front interfacing pattern from the coat front pattern. This insures match­ ing grain and easy transfer of construction details to the interfacing.

Back Interfacing Muslin is used for back interfacing and in the hems. Shrink the muslin before cutting.

When you have finished cutting your coat:

Pick up and fold together all parts of each coat unit. Fold lining pieces together. E. M. 2162 Page 4

PLAN OF WORK

Make the coat in units.

l. Collar : Interfacing Under collar Back seam Press and let dry on pressing pad.

2. Front of coat: Mark center front and buttonholes with matching baste stitching. Baste darts in wool, check for fit, then stitch darts. Make darts in interfacing. Tape interfacing. Attach interfacing to.front, at shoulders, neck edge and armscye. Make buttonholes.

3. Attach outer edge of top collar to undercollar. Press outer edge of collar and let dry.

4. Back of coat: Center back seam Darts Interfacing Baste back to the front shoulder seams.

5. (make or buy if needed).

6. Hand baste or pin baste underarm seam: Put in shoulder pads and check fit of shoulder and underarm seamline. Sew shoulder seams. Sew underarm seams. (The coat may be hemmed at this time if you are sure of the length. )

7. Sew back neck facing to front neck facing.

8. Attach collar.

9. Sleeves: Darts Gathers Underarm seams Hem sleeves

10. Hem coat if needed at this time.

11. Put in lining. E. M. 2162 Page 5 UNDERCOLLAR

The top collar is always cut on the lengthwise grain of fabric. Interfacing and undercollar are usually cut on true bias.

On undercollar interfacing, mark the line for padding stitch (Fig. 1), using 's carbon and .

Trim away the interfacing at the point of the collar.

Stitch undercollar and interfacing together on the marked lines (Fig. 1), using match­ Fig. 1 ing and regulation stitch.

On a 5/8 inch stitch interfacing to under collar at the ends, center back, neck edge and outer edge. (Fig. 1) the interfacing close to the stitching line except at the neck edge. Do not trim the inter­ facing at the neck edge.

Join center back seam of undercollar. Press seam open and each side of the center back seam. (Fig. 2)

Shape the undercollar, to give it a curve at the neck­ line for a closer fit. This may be done by pressing it on the ham or a cushion on the end of the ironing board. To do this fold the under- collar on fold line in the Fig. 2 back, matching the and outer edges and continu- ing the fold to the seam allowance at the neckline edge at the ends. Dampen the interfacing on the folded collar and press with upward strokes, following the grain from the outside edge to the fold.

Continue pressing and shaping until the desired curved shape is obtained. Let the undercollar dry on the pressing pad. E. M. 2162 Page 6

FRONT OF COAT

On the coat fabric mark all construction lines and perforations with 1 s tacks, chalk or dressmaker's carbon paper. Make a tailor's at the termination of the collar. The center back, center front, top of sleeves and darts may be marked at the seam edge with 1/8 inch clip.

With hand basting and using contrasting thread mark the crosswise and lengthwise grainlines as marked on the pattern (indicated in Figures 1 and 2 of Garment Fitting E. M. 2246).

1. Mark the center front line with machine basting. This A B will be on straight of grain c (A - Fig. 3). I I 2. Make a second line of basting I I J 1/8 inch beyond the center ----_-,.!-- D front (B - Fig. 3 ).

3. Measure the diameter and I thickness of the to I determine the placement of I the third line of basting on I the lengthwise grain of the fabric. (C - Fig. 3). The distance from line B to line C is the diameter and thickness of the button. I I 4. Machine ba-ste on the straight T ------D 1 crosswise grain of the I fabric, lines D for the button­ I hole placements (Fig. 3 ). J When pattern has shoulder darts, baste Center front darts and check for fit. Stitch darts Basting lines in front of coat from wide end to point and lock stitch for buttonholes or tie threads. Trim darts and press open over the ham pressing pad (Fig. 4) Fig. 3 Leave the pressed darts on the pressing ham while working on the interfacing. E. M. 2162 Page 7

Front Darts (inside)

Fig. 4

Darts in Interfacing - Slash one side of interfacing dart on marked line ­ from outer edge to point. Lap cut edge to other side of dart, matching markings, and stitch close to edge. Stitch again, approximately 1/8" from the first stitching.

Trim close to stitching. Stitch a two- inch square of interfacing or musiin over point of dart on under side to prevent pulling out. (Fig. 5)

Slash and lap stitch dart in interfacing. Under side of front interfacing. Fig. 5 E. M. 2162 Page 8

TAPE INTERFACING

The facing may be cut with the body of the coat or cut separately.

FACING CUT SEPARATELY. This method is used for a shaped

Cut a 1-1/2 inch wide bias strip of muslin. Place this muslin strip on the interfacing, matching the outer edges and shape it to fit the front edge of the coat. {Fig. 6) This side of the interfacing is to be placed next to the front of the coat. Sew muslin strip to interfacing 3/4 inch from the cut edge and along the inside edge of the muslin. Trim interfacing back to first row of stitching-­ only the bias muslin strip will be in the seam.

Place the muslin strip side of the interfacing next to the wool. Using directional stitching, staystitch the interfacing to the front of the coat at the front edge, neck edge, shoulder, armscye and 3 inches below the armscye . . Outside of front interfacing Make buttonholes (E. B. 576). Fig. 6

COAT AND FRONT FACING CUT IN ONE PIECE - Seam tape may be used. Be sure to shrink the tape before attaching to the interfacing.

Stitch tape to interfacing approximately 1/4 inch from the straight edge. Be sure tape isn't tight. It should appear a little full before pressing.

Stitch a second time, along the inner edge of the tape.

Trim interfacing away close to first row of stitching.

Slip stitch edge of tape to coat on the fold line with small stitch,e s, 1/2 inch apart, invisible on the right side.

Make buttonholes (E. B. 576).

ATTACH FRONT FACING TO COAT

Join front edge of the facing to the front edge of the coat. · Press seam open. Grade the seam- -above the roll line of the lapel, trim the facing seam to approximately 3/8 inch and the body of the coat seam to 1/4 inch. E. M. 2162 Page 9

Below the roll line of the lapel, trim the coat seam to 3/8 inch and the facing seam to l/4 inch. The roll line of the lapel usually ends in line with the top .

ATTACH TOP COLLAR TO UNDERCOLLAR

Place undercollar and top collar, right sides to­ gether. Stitch outer edge of collar, stitching on interfacing side. Do not close ends of collar. (Fig. 7)

Press collar edge seam open and grade, leaving under.collar seam 1/8 inch and upper collar seam l/4 inch. Press the outer edge of the collar. Do not press out the fold lihe Fig. 7 of the undercollar which was shaped on the ham.

BACK OF COAT

Join any lengthwise seams in back of coat. Stitch and press .shoulder darts.

If there are shoulder darts, Inside slash the muslin in center of back coat the darts and lap, matching dart marking lines. Do not stitch back shoulder darts in muslin.

Staystitch the muslin to the back of the coat in correct direction at shoulders, neckline, armscye, and 3 inches below armscye. (Fig. 8)

Staystitch interfacing to coat Fig. 8 E. M. 2162 Page 10

If there are darts, baste stitch for first fitting.

Baste the shoulder and underarm seams. Make or buy shoulder pads if needed.

First Fitting:

Try on coat with shoulder pads pinned in place. Match center fronts and pin.

Check the shoulder line and underarm seams. The underarm seams should hang perpendicular to the floor.

Stitch the shoulder and underarm seams.

A TTA.CH COLLAR TO THE COAT

Pin center back of undercollar to center back· of coat neckline. Match notches. At neckline, clip to perforation indicating location of finished end of collar. Baste and sew the under collar to the back of the coat with the seam line of the end of the undercollar attached at the clip at the neckline. Press neckline seam open and clip as needed. Ends of the collar are still open.

Sew the shoulder seam of front facing and back neck facing. Press the seam open.

Sew the top collar to the front and back neck facings, matching notches. Clip facing at neckline indicating location of finished end of collar. Clip the seam and press open.

Close the notch of the lapel stitching from the outer edge to the center front. (Fig. 9) Press the seam open and grade. E. M. 2162 Page 11

Stitch notch of lapel Stitch ends of collar

Fig. 9 Fig. 10

Stitch the ends of the collar, stitching from center front neckline to the outer edge of the collar. (Fig. 10) The top collar should be a little larger than the undercollar so the collar will lay flat. Press the seam open and grade.

With seams pressed open, attach the facing seam to the neckline seam with a running stitch.

SLEEVES

If there are elbow darts, stitch and press downward. If it is a two-piece sleeve, one piece is eased in over the elbow.

Stitch a continuous line of staystitching and gathering around the sleeve cap very near the seamline. Press hem line in bottom of sleeve. Cut a bias strip of muslin the width of the hem plus l /2 inch.

Place and pin bias muslin strip at th~ bottom of the sleeve, one edge along the fold or of the sleeve.

Fold the sleeve hem back on the muslin strip and sew the bottom of the sleeve to the muslin, approximately l/8 inch from the edge. (Fig. ll) E. M. 2162 Page 12

The muslin will extend 1/2 inch beyond the edge.

Stitch underarm seam and press open.

Catch the muslin to the sleeve with a running hemming stitch. Do not pull the thread tight.

Set in the Sleeves

Pin in the sleeve, pull up the ­ ing threads until the sleeve fits the armscye. Unpin the sleeve and shrink out the fullness at the seam­ line using a pressing ham or sleeve board. After all fullness at the sleeve cap seam has been eliminated Sleeve with muslin strip pin the sleeve into the armscye again and sew.

Fig. 11 Sew in the shoulder pads if they are used.

Front Facing:

With a running stitch attach front facing to interfacing. End the running stitch approximately 6 inches above the hemline.

HEMLINE

- Jacket and short coat hems are made like sleeve hems. The lining is attached to the jacket approximately 1 inch from the fold line of the hem. Allow for ease in the lining.

- Three-quarter and full-length coat hems and their 1 ining hems are hemmed separately. The lining hem is attached loosely to the coat hem at the seamlines. A as used in making belt loops in E. B. 580 or a swing tack may be used to attach lining to coat.

Jacket Hem

Mark and press the hemline of the jacket. (The jacket may be hemmed before setting in the sleeves if you are sure of the length. ) E. M. 2162 Page 13

Place a bi.as strip of muslin i.nsi.de of t.he hem--the muslin should be 1/2 inch wider than the finished hem. Lay the bias muslin on the body of the coat, one edge along the pressed hemline. Fold the hem back on the muslin. Pin and stitch approximately 1/4 inch from the edge. Overlap the end of the muslin strip on the front interfacing and catch by hand running stitch. The front interfacing should come to the fold of the hemline.

Catch the muslin to the wool with a loose running hemming stitch.

Trim off approximately 1/2 inch from the bottom of the front facing and slip stitch the facing to the hem of the jacket.

Coat Hem

A. tailor's hem as shown in E. B. 579 may be used.

LINING THE JA.CKET OR COAT

Staystitch the shoulder line, neck edge and armscye. Machine baste the sleeve cap of the lining.

Machine stitch all lengthwise seams and sleeve seams and press open. Do not stitch the shoulder seam.

Baste and press center back pleat and any darts. Catch- stitch the pleat in the back 2 inches below the neck edge. The pleat may be catch- stitched again at the waistline.

Between the notches of the lower half of the armscye, stitch the sleeve into the lining.

Each lengthwise seam of the lining is attached to the corresponding seam of the coat by hand. Begin at the center back or underarm seams and ease the lining to the coat. Attach with a long, loose, running stitch, starting and ending about 2 inches from the end of the seam.

With a running stitch attach the lining to the sleeve at the lower armscye be­ tween the notches.

With a running stitch attach the lengthwise sleeve seams of the lining to the sleeve, 2 inches below the armscye, fastening the thread about 2 inches above the hem.

Slip stitch the front edge of the lining over the front facing of the jacket to within 2 inches of the bottom of the jacket. E. M. 2162 Page 14

With a running stitch attach the shoulder edge of the front lining to the shoulder pad.

Turn under seam allowance at the back of the neck and the back shoulder edge. . Slip stitch in place.

The armscye of the lining is slip stitched to the coat lining.

Slip stitch the linin ~ to the bottom of the sleeve. Finish the bottom of the hem as described on pag~ 12.

If careful pressing was done with each step, little pressing will be required after the garment is completed.

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