Is the Sweetest City in the World Introduction

Community City Guide

is the sweetest city in the world introduction

“Abidjan is the sweetest city in the world“. This popular slogan has proven itself true for several years now in Côte d’Ivoire and throughout all of Francophone Africa.

It’s with great pleasure that Facebook offers this city guide that will allow this popular expression to resonate even further. A true declaration of love from its inhabitants and those visiting the economic capital of Côte d’Ivoire, “Abidjan is the sweetest city in the world“ also expresses the joyful energy of this city, which is a reference to West Africa, both for its economic vitality and for its cultural wealth.

In line with Facebook’s commitment to support the communities that are the lifelines of our societies, this guide, to just some of Abidjan’s must-see locations, was made to provide Ivorian Facebook groups and influencers an opportunity to share with us everything that gives this city its special flavour.

As they say in Côte d’Ivoire: “Those who know, win; and those who don’t, don’t lose!“ In other words, thanks to the generosity of these groups who will take us around the city, Abidjan will no longer be unknown to those of us who have never been, and even more familiar for those who have.

This guide is an invitation to travel, to discover and to get to know “Babi“, as the city is called by those who know it well. It earns its reputation thanks to its gastronomy, its culture, and its incomparable energy.

Olivia Nloga, Facebook Communications Manager for Francophone Africa Akwaba Welcome

Dear readers and visitors, You are holding in your hands, either in its physical or digital form, this City Guide which will allow you to better know and navigate through the city of Abidjan, our economic capital and the window by which the world sees Côte d’Ivoire.

Abidjan is a sprawling city with a unique charm that has for many decades been labeled with names that speak volumes about its attractiveness, such as: The Pearl of the Lagoon, Little Manhattan or The Pearl of Lights. This has been reinforced by the ministry’s initiative to boost the tourism industry “Sublime Côte d’Ivoire“, which promotes Abidjan’s ambition to become a truly smart city, a city of the future in the present, here and ready for you now. Abidjan is a metropolis that fully embraces its rich history with its very active cultural and artistic scene, all the while setting the tone as a great destination for business and leisure.

This City Guide, created by Facebook, gives a glimpse into the world of Abidjan by showcasing some of the best things it has to offer. This includes a close-up on Ivorian foods, with its multitude of indoor and outdoor restaurants (commonly called maquis), and the waterfront venues offering magnificent views onto the Atlantic Ocean and the beautiful lagoon. Grand Bassam and Assinie, which are part of the greater Abidjan area, are popular seaside resort areas.

The urban city of Abidjan is also known as one of the most attractive business hubs on the African continent. And when the sun goes down, you can experience Abidjan-by-night and see how Ivorians have fun. The Museum of Civilization and the Abidjan Craft Centre (CAVA) are an invitation to a journey through time, thanks to their cultural and handcrafted works. Finally, you will know from reading this guide that the charm of the city comes from the city’s communities that make up the social fabric day by day, and that there is nothing deceptive about the actions they carry out on a daily basis, but rather a real solidarity and enthusiasm that we are happy to see expressed on Facebook as well physically in the city.

We hope you enjoy reading this guide and discovering Abidjan, the cornerstone of “Sublime Côte d’Ivoire“. We’re waiting for you: welcome to our home and yours!

Siandou Fofana, Minister of Tourism and Leisure of Côte d’Ivoire

Foreword by Marguerite Abouet 08

Treat yourself to the best 10 Facebook Community City Guide Community Facebook 01

02 Out on the town 18

03 Where to take a break? 26

04 Zest of culture 32

05 A community mindset 40

06 Abidjan and its influencers 48

Nouchi slang dictionary 56 Abidjan, Côte d’Ivoire Abidjan, Côte

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foreword Abidjan is the sweetest city in the world... because of its bubbling artistic creativity, honoured by many contemporary art galleries, foundations, showrooms, and museums that welcome talented artists from the country and Abidjan is the sweetest the entire continent. Abidjan is the sweetest city in the world... because of the vast and rich cuisine it shares with its neighbouring countries and the rest of the world. Take some city in the world time to settle down somewhere in the shade to take a small local snack and wash it down with a nice cold beer. You will absolutely love the local dishes such as Ivorians like to say: “Everything always starts with a first time.” From your very Garba, chicken Kedjénou, Fried Fish with Alloco, Sauce graine (or Palm soup as first steps in this city, you will feel right at home and be greeted by its strong it is called in neighbouring Ghana), and many others local favourites in one of sense of hospitality as you embark on a trip to new, warm, and bustling lands. the open-air restaurants, typically called maquis, that line the streets. There is Facebook Community City Guide Community Facebook In no time at all, you will feel as comfortable as if you have lived there your something for everyone, no matter your taste preferences or your budget, from entire life and will be ready to dive into all the fun without hesitation. Welcome common spots to the most luxurious hotspots. to Abidjan... or Babi, for those in the know. But if it ever gets too hot, the air-conditioned “Babi the beautiful“ restaurants will offer you the same traditional Abidjan is the sweetest city in the world... because of its way of life. Abidjan is will not have finished dishes. Globalisation, of course, will allow you to less of an actual place and more like a state of mind. You will come to understand also find beef bourguignon, steak tartare, pizzas, that living in Abidjan means enjoying every minute for all it’s worth. This city plays bewildering you and hamburgers. centre stage to a scene where they love to banter, to laugh about everything, to play on words, and just have a good time. There is a spirit of spontaneous and Abidjan is the sweetest city in the world... because of its nightclubs, air- mutual kindness that makes it easy to meet people and find a good reason to conditioned bars, drinking spots and dance maquis—which will hit you hard get together. The style of living in the moment is infectious; you’ll love it and it will with high decibels of music genres such as coupé-décalé, Zouglou and much make you want to stay. more. You can put your faith in the DJs who will compete with one another to showcase their talents with the sole aim of keeping you entertained for as long as Abidjan is the sweetest city in the world... because of its cosmopolitan, possible... and they will do it with a smile. When you get back to your hotel in the supercharged, and highly interactive inhabitants with whom the city shares its early morning, at about the same time as the fresh morning air hits you, the taxi joys, sorrows, desires, and hopes. It’s almost as if Abidjan was inspired by their driver will take the Félix Houphouët-Boigny Bridge. Still “guinze“ (drunk) you will daily lives. After passing through the police and customs, you will discover the be surprised by the futuristic skyscrapers adorned with advertisements and, for type of people of Abidjan, you will notice the clashes with the bag carriers or a moment, you will think you are in Manhattan, New York. But only for a moment the drivers of unregistered cars. This constant proximity will introduce you to the because Babi, gentle, calm and now so easy to love, will come back to life in a few pulses of carefree optimism and vibrant energy. In most cases, fortunately, you hours to become unbridled and unpredictable again. “Babi the beautiful“ will not will quickly forget the unpleasantness. Prepare yourself for the worse but expect have finished bewildering you. Abidjan still deserves many more compliments, if the best. Then there is always the famous phrase, “we are together!“ (in French: only to give you an irresistible desire to visit this city. “on est ensemble!”) which is so popular with Ivorians, that it will quickly take place in your vocabulary.

Abidjan is the sweetest city in the world... because of the language spoken by most of the population. You will hear the persistent echo of Nouchi, the street slang of Abidjan. You will no longer ignore that “gazer” in Nouchi means to go out clubbing, that “s’enjailler“ in Nouchi means having a good time, and that Marguerite Abouet “boucantiers“ refers to those who have enough money to share with everyone, Ivorian writer, screenwriter and and that “faire leur farotage“ means to show off. Don’t be surprised if someone director, and author of the successful d’Ivoire Abidjan, Côte asks, “On dit quoi!“, which literally means: “what do we say?“ and is instantly answered by a “Ya foye“, which means “it’s all good”. comic strip Aya de Youpougon. 09 10 01

Facebook Community City Guide Community Facebook Treat yourself to the best From maquis (open-air restaurants) to gourmet restaurants, there’s plenty to enjoy in Abidjan. You can taste the traditional fish and Attiéké of the city at Miss Zahui’s or enjoy a unique dining experience at Le Toit d’Abidjan. Abidjan is also the home of innovative café concepts, such as the Bushman Café or Villa Thoannyd, where culture reigns. You’ll also find Migrations, a socially committed restaurant, which allows you to enjoy a good meal and do a good deed all at the same time. d’Ivoire Abidjan, Côte 11 12

Migrations Eating and being absorbed into the surroundings at the same time is possible at Migrations thanks to renowned chef Loïc Dablé. Located in the heart of Panaf, this third place pan-african culinary experience is a new restaurant concept. The cuisine is creative, ethical, and socially Facebook Group committed. Migrations has an important social mission and promotes the integration of young and former migrants. Here you can enjoy a good meal while contributing to the training of the staff. Low prices guaranteed. There won’t be a reason for you to not love it.

29 av. Jean Mermoz, in the street behind the Goethe Institute Facebook Community City Guide Community Facebook I Love Open Tuesday - Sunday from 08:00am - 10:00pm The Bushman Café More than just a simple café, Bushman is a new concept. This blended living space combines restaurant, hotel, boutique shop and even Abidjan exhibition spaces. A favourite destination for those who love to go on nice strolls, enjoy cultural activities, and treat their taste buds. The restaurant offers a great menu with a lot of choices, including fresh and gourmet products. And for the art lover in you, you’ll be able to enjoy it A great local guide to this capital city. surrounded by decor worthy of an art gallery. This place is truly a treat for all your senses, which you won’t want to miss. You’ll discover trendy restaurants, the latest openings and get the latest Cocody Riviera 3, route de M’pouto. Open Tuesday - Friday from 06:00pm - 12:00am / Saturday - Sunday 08:00am - 12:00pm information on all the hot spots. Perfect for staying up to date on cultural events and everything else you won’t want Le Toit d’Abidjan to miss when you live in or visit Abidjan. Nestled away on the 23rd floor of the Sofitel Hotel Ivoire tower building, This group allows you to fully discover the Toit d’Abidjan offers an exceptional panoramic view of the city. But it owes its reputation to its fine dining experience, which does not this unique and vibrant city. hesitate to combine Ivorian flavours with French gourmet cuisine. On the menu, you’ll find a rack of lamb in an almond crust, vegetable tian and jeera (cumin) water or beetroot carpaccio with wasabi butter. A real journey for the senses.

Cocody - Sofitel Ivoire 8, boulevard Hassan II Open daily from 08:00am – 09:00pm Abidjan, Côte d’Ivoire Abidjan, Côte

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Miss Zahui Parenthèse At Miss Zahui’s, you can enjoy one of the best made “Fish Attiéké Alloco”, an emblematic dish in Côte d’Ivoire, made up of grilled fish, The Parenthèse restaurant is a space where you can get away from grated cassava and plantain banana. At Miss Zahui’s, the food is tasty it all and quickly find yourself in the middle of green plants and classy and the atmosphere authentic. Here you can choose your fish while it decorations. One of the main attractions of this great setting is the is still swimming in the tank, how it will be cooked, and even make your huge bay window overlooking the lush plants. This sudden immersion own seasoning. Welcome to Abidjan. into nature will set the tone for you to fully enjoy their delicious dishes, presented in a sophisticated and original way.

Cocody Riviera Palmeraie. 25 rue du Canal in Zone 4. Open daily from 11:00am - 03:00pm / 06:00pm - 12:00am

Facebook Community City Guide Community Facebook Open daily from 09:30am - 05:00pm

Jay’s No doubt about it, you will absolutely love Jay’s. An outdoor bar and grill that offers a friendly atmosphere and portions that are just as generous. Jay, the chef and soul of the restaurant, is an attraction in his own right. A passionate creative chef with a Rasta look, he cooks with feeling according to the ingredients available but also according to the desires of the customers to whom he offers personalised dishes. At Jay’s, they don’t skimp on the quality of the products. Seafood and meat lovers will not be disappointed.

Paul-Langevin Street in Zone 4, adjacent to Parker Place. Open Monday - Friday 11:00am - 03:00am / Saturday - Sunday 06:00am - 03:00am

Villa Thoannyd At Villa Thoannyd, you’ll find fine dining, African art and culture all in one place. A place of great tranquillity and beauty, it’s easy to note that art is a central theme here, with a building covered in traditional African designs. The Villa offers a terrace, a lovely patio with a swimming pool and a lounge area for relaxing. In the restaurant you can enjoy 100% African dishes. In short, the sweet life.

Cocody Angré, 7th section. Open Tuesday - Thursday 12:00pm - 03:00pm / 06:00pm - 11:00pm Friday - Sunday 12:00pm - 12:00am Abidjan, Côte d’Ivoire Abidjan, Côte

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Chez Tantie Alice Are you yearning for a good plate of fish and Attiéké? Then Auntie Alice (or in French: Tantie Alice) is here to welcome you into her restaurant, famously known for this exact dish. Each meal is cooked with love and quality products. Fresh fish and ingredients, Tantie Alice does not skimp on anything and knows how to concoct other Ivorian dishes just as well. A maquis (common name in the region for outdoor restaurants) with an authentic atmosphere that is a sensation in itself.

Riviera Palmeraie.

Facebook Community City Guide Community Facebook Open daily from 09:00am - 07:00pm

Chez Tantie Aba Located in Cocody Palmeraie, Auntie Aba (or in French: Tantie Aba) is one of the best spots to feast on a good plate of fish and Attiéké. Here, the recipe has been handed down from generation to generation, keeping the mystery of its unique flavour. On the menu, fresh fish, simmered sosso fish, and quality seasonings. An ideal place to have lunch with family, friends or even alone. This very popular spot can get a little crowded, so it might be best to go a little early.

Riviera Palmeraie before Belle Côte hotel. Open daily from 09:00am - 11:00pm

O’sogo Saakan Restaurant If you are a meat lover, then O’sogo is the place to be to share a great Located on the edge of the lagoon in Plateau, the Saakan meal in a good ambiance. Located next to Abidjan Mall, O’sogo has restaurant offers excellent African cuisine. The chef, Christelle Vougo, made meat its specialty. Whether grilled, in soup or choukouya style, appropriates African flavours with creativity and originality. You’ll simply all preparations are possible. To accompany your gourmet plate of melt in front of her yam and tuna Napoleon. The setting is modern and pork, beef or sheep, don’t hesitate to try their home-made juices and trendy with subtle hints of African culture. It is simply impossible to cocktails. Pineapple-ginger to passion-lemon, there’s a flavour for resist the charm of the waitresses in their traditional outfits. everyone Avenue Chardy in Plateau. Open Monday - Sunday Riviera Bonoumin. Open Monday - Saturday: 12:30pm - 10:00am / 11.30am - 03:00pm, 06:30pm - 10.30pm (11.30pm on weekends) Sunday 05:00pm - 10:00pm Abidjan, Côte d’Ivoire Abidjan, Côte

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Facebook Community City Guide Community Facebook Out on the town

The city of Abidjan is constantly bubbling and known as the capital of Francophone Africa when it comes to lively parties. Fans of the Zouglou* music genre will find their happiness at the venue named Internat, while reggae fans will enjoy Parker Place. Finally, the trendiest will want to go to the LifeStar nightclub to party until dawn, dancing to the rhythm of the coupe décalé music genre. Abidjan, Côte d’Ivoire Abidjan, Côte

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The Pharmacy The Pharmacy is a cocktail bar with an original concept. Shots served in syringes, waitresses dressed as nurses, this place is just what the doctor ordered. The bar is also well known for its excellent cocktails Facebook Group with a selection of more than 20 types of whiskies, gins, and vodkas.

Boulevard Giscard d’Estaing in Koumassi. Open Tuesday - Thursday from 08:00pm - 05:00am / Friday - Sunday from 08:00pm - 06:00am Facebook Community City Guide Community Facebook ZOR The RooPh The RooPh just happens to be the name of one of the best rooftop Zouglou lounge areas in Abidjan. In this cosy and classy atmosphere, you’ll be able to enjoy its magnificent terrace overlooking the rooftops of Abidjan while sipping on one of their delicious shots. The cocktail bar is something not to be missed with its exceptional spirits, syrups, and cocktails with original recipes. Before you leave, you absolutely have to try the delicious plantation rum created from a home-made recipe. A Ou Rien memorable experience. in English: “Zouglou or nothing“ Riviera Bonoumin, carrefour Djédjé Mady. Open Monday - Wednesday: 10:00am - 11:00pm / Thursday - Saturday: 10:00am - 02:00am / Sunday: 07:00pm - 11:00pm More than 24,000 members are united in this group dedicated to Zouglou music. With its joyful rhythms and socially conscious lyrics, Zouglou is at the heart of Parker Place urban Ivorian music. In this group, you will In Babi, reggae lovers meet up at Parker Place, which is open Thursday, find information on upcoming events, but Friday and Saturday nights. The dance floor has a relaxed atmosphere. The line-ups are always unique and live sessions are organised also the latest news on celebrities from regularly.

this music scene. A mix of good vibrations Paul Langevin Street. that makes you want to party. Open daily from 09:30pm - 06:00am Abidjan, Côte d’Ivoire Abidjan, Côte

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The Bloom The Internat This is the bar and restaurant that has Abidjan buzzing. A beautiful The Internat is the temple when it comes to Zouglou music. Here, blend of lifestyle and culture in an ultra-stylish setting with cosy sofas, you can be sure the party will be lively. This outdoor maquis area will plants, and a great cocktail bar. Here, people come to enjoy after-work welcome you with its warm, music-filled atmosphere. Every Sunday, drinks or parties in a lively atmosphere. As for the music, you can count you can attend an exceptional show with some of the best artists in on a line-up that includes the best of Afro pop. Don’t worry if you start the country. If you’re lucky enough, you might even meet the stars of getting hungry; it won’t be long before you enjoy their mouth-watering Zouglou such as Magic System or Yodé and Siro. tapas platters. Nothing but joy. Yopougon, Niangon Sud on the right. Rue des jardins in Cocody. Open Tuesday: 09:00am - 02:00am / Open Sunday from 04:00pm - 11:00pm

Facebook Community City Guide Community Facebook Wednesday - Sunday: 06:30pm - 02:00am

La Cour Royale Want to enjoy a refreshing drink while listening to Zouglou music with your feet in the sand? Then go straight to La Cour Royale, a nightclub always open and waiting for nothing more than you. Here, live acts bring to life Zouglou or rumba music that will keep you dancing until dawn. To steer you through this experience, you will find talented artists setting the dance floor on fire. The sand, the bar-cabana, and the coloured lights will immediately put you in a festive mood.

Voie de la Djibi in Cocody Angré. Open 24/7

The Paon In addition to its innovative cuisine, The Paon restaurant (Paon being the French word for Peacock) offers festive live performances from Zouglou and Congolese Rumba music artists. You can also enjoy African or European dishes, comfortably sitting in the lounge sofas. To top it off, this magical and welcoming setting hosts an exotic garden where peacocks roam freely.

Carrefour du Lycée Américain at Riviera 3. Open Monday - Sunday 11:00am - 02:00am Abidjan, Côte d’Ivoire Abidjan, Côte

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Pullman Hotel This is where Abidjan’s trendiest after-works are held. On the line- up, DJs and cocktails on a magnificent terrace overlooking the Ebrié Lagoon. You can meet the best of the best of Abidjan in a cosmopolitan and relaxed atmosphere. The Pullman also offers atypical experiences, such as private showcases with artists, arty aperitifs, and creative workshops.

Avenue Abdoulaye Fadiga in Plateau. Open every day Facebook Community City Guide Community Facebook

Life Star Life Star is one of the trendiest nightclubs in the city. On the dance floor, all of Abidjan comes together in a glamourous atmosphere. The dress code: chic and glamorous, as here you will find the best of the best of Abidjan’s high class. The line-up is excellent with renowned DJs scheduled to play. An absolute must-see, not to be missed if you want to keep sweet memories of Abidjan-by-night.

Avenue Chardy in Plateau. Open Thursday - Sunday 11:00pm - 06:00am Abidjan, Côte d’Ivoire Abidjan, Côte

The Internat, p.23 25 26 03

Facebook Community City Guide Community Facebook Where to take a break?

In the sweet city of Abidjan, there are many places to relax and enjoy the exceptional surroundings. If you want to take a dip in a swimming pool with a view of the coconut trees, then head on over to Boulay Beach Resort or Coconut Grove Lodge. If you are more of a nature lover, then the Kafolo Lagoon or the Bingerville Botanical Garden will not disappoint you, with their free roaming animals and multiple outdoor activities. d’Ivoire Abidjan, Côte

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Hotel Particulier What better way to escape the urban city heat than to hide away at Hotel Particulier? Situated in the heart of the Cocody commune, this hotel offers a unique atmosphere for anybody looking for a moment of tranquillity: a superb outdoor swimming pool and a cosy terrace where Facebook Group time finally seems to stand still. To take experience even further, their concept store is ready to offer you handcrafted products and natural cosmetics. You’ll come out feeling more relaxed than ever.

52 route du Lycée Technique, Cocody. Open every day Facebook Community City Guide Community Facebook Randon- Kafolo Lagoon

Nestled away on an island full of plants, Kafolo Lagoon is the perfect place for those looking for a little adventure. There’s a wide range of activities to choose from, including guided tours of the wildlife park to nées Côte a boat trip on the lagoon, as well as tree climbing and zip lining. If you feel like taking the adventure one step further, you can stay overnight in one of the bungalows on stilts. By the way, the restaurant serves delicious cuisine with African and European flavours on the menu.

Abatta Village, Bingerville. d’Ivoire Open every day in English: “ Hiking Côte d’Ivoire“

Would you like to discover the surroundings The botanical garden of Abidjan and enjoy the natural beauty of Bingerville it has to offer? In the Facebook group Just outside Abidjan, the Bingerville Botanical Garden (or in French: Le jardin botanique de Bingerville) is an oasis in the heart of the city. Randonnées Côte d’Ivoire (or in English: This beautiful setting is a real treat for those wanting to take a stroll, “Hiking Côte d’Ivoire“) you will find some of whether with family or friends. You’ll be able to take advantage of the immense lawns to have a picnic or simply take a nap in the shade of the organised excursions and tours available the large tree-lined paths. The botanical garden has been designed in Abidjan and its surroundings. Here you’ll to preserve plants of various kinds and offers a sublime collection of greenery that one can’t help but marvel at. find hikes over beautiful landscapes, bucolic boat rides, trips through national parks just Opposite the Military Preparatory and Technical School, Bingerville. Open Monday - Friday 07:30am - 05:00pm /

waiting to be discovered and much more. Saturday - Sunday 07:00am - 17:00pm d’Ivoire Abidjan, Côte Offering you a unique way to experience Côte d’Ivoire and meet its inhabitants. 29 30

Boulay Beach Resort Located on Boulay Island, this hotel and its dream-like setting are perfect for an afternoon with friends or a romantic getaway. Here, you can relax in a canopy next to the lavish pool. If you start feeling a little hungry, that feeling won’t last for long thanks to the hotel’s restaurant, which offers a tasty menu and fruity cocktails. Once its night-time, enjoy the pool party with the city’s best DJs.

Boulay Island in Yopougon. Open every day Facebook Community City Guide Community Facebook

Coconut Grove Lodge The Coconut Grove Lodge is a true haven for those seeking peace and quiet. You can spend the afternoon basking in the beauty of the landscape and the relaxing atmosphere of the hotel. From the private beach to the pool overlooking the lagoon, it won’t be difficult to take a nice, quiet swim. The hotel also offers outdoor activities such as canoeing and horse riding. This place is a treasure.

Boulay Island in Yopougon. Open every day Abidjan, Côte d’Ivoire Abidjan, Côte

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Facebook Community City Guide Community Facebook Zest of culture

Lovers of art and all beautiful things will easily find their happiness in Abidjan. You’ll find marketplaces that within themselves give you a glimpse into the wide variety of African crafts that exists. As far as museums go, the Musée des Civilisations (Museum of Civilizations) is a tribute to African heritage. For those who prefer contemporary art, the Donwahi Foundation or the Cécile Fakhoury Gallery will allow you to discover the hidden treasures of the Ivorian art scene. Abidjan, Côte d’Ivoire Abidjan, Côte

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Museum of Civilizations Situated in the Plateau commune, the Museum of Civilizations is a must-see spot for those wanting to fully understand the country’s history. Here you will find the greatest collection of masks, statuettes, musical instruments and cultural objects brought together. There are Facebook Group thousands of works that reflect the different ethnic groups and religions of Côte d’Ivoire. You’ll enjoy temporary exhibitions, which are always fascinating. Since its renovation in 2017, the Museum of Civilizations has put a special spotlight on contemporary creations, with a room dedicated to artists from all over the continent and a garden enriched with modern works. Facebook Community City Guide Community Facebook Nouvelles Behind the Cité administrative in Plateau. Open Tuesday - Saturday 09:00am - 06:00pm / Sunday - Monday 11:00am - 04:00pm

de mon Dozo Concept Store This trendy concept store is in vogue in Abidjan with its arty décor that offers a selection of modern designer brands, much to the delight of in English: fashion lovers. More than just a store, the Dozo Concept Store organises meetings with designers, personalised workshops and sewing lessons. News from my country As a special surprise, every night a DJ transforms the boutique into a pays place to dance and have fun. The Facebook Group “Nouvelles de mon 24 avenue Boga Doudou. Open Tuesday - Saturday 10:00am - 08:00pm / Sunday 01:00pm - 08:00pm pays” (directly translated as: News from my country) brings together all those who love this country and wish to share their love for Cécile Fakhoury Gallery

Ivorian culture. Among the numerous posts, Opened in 2012, the Cécile Fakhoury gallery contributes to the you will find members sharing new cultural international visibility of contemporary African art. It represents artists who set themselves apart by their approaches and their enlightened discoveries, but also favourites and a few view of society. Thanks to its participation in international fairs and posts just to make you laugh. You will not be biennials, the gallery offers artists the possibility to be seen and appreciated even beyond the borders of the country. disappointed with this journey offered from Boulevard Latrille in Cocody between Sodemi and Immeuble the point-of-view of the inhabitants. Carbone. Open Tuesday - Saturday 10:00am - 07:00pm Abidjan, Côte d’Ivoire Abidjan, Côte

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Treichville market This is one of the markets in Abidjan that you should not miss out on. In this popular market, you can find absolutely everything: handicrafts, jewellery, local fabrics, clothes, but also fresh fruit and vegetables. It’s a joyful jamboree that immerses you in the daily life of the local experience. A few small stalls allow you to grab something to eat outside

Avenue Biaka Boda, Treichville. Open daily 05:45am - 08:00pm Facebook Community City Guide Community Facebook

Handcrafts Centre of Abidjan (CAVA)

Calling all bargain hunters and handcraft lovers! The Handcrafts Centre of Abidjan has about fifty small stalls full of African handmade treasures. Statuettes, loincloths, masks, ethnic jewellery, and African fabrics, there is something for everyone. Calm and crossed by wide alleys, this place is an ideal setting to visit with family or friends. To top it off, you’ll find the best prices.

22 rue des ferronniers in Zone 4. Open daily 08:00am - 06:00pm Abidjan, Côte d’Ivoire Abidjan, Côte

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Kouté market The Kouté market is the biggest market for second-hand items in Abidjan. You can find everything at low prices. It has also become a meeting place for bargain hunters, who come to find the rare treasures in this real-life cave of Ali Baba. Here, you must be quick, have a good eye, and know how to bargain. If you’re feeling peckish, you’ll find stalls selling delicious fritters, cakes, and fruit juice for a 100% local experience.

Yopougon Kouté.

Facebook Community City Guide Community Facebook Open Tuesdays and Fridays

Donwahi Foundation Opened in 2008, the Donwahi Foundation is a space dedicated to contemporary Ivorian art. The structure is composed of three villas, which host exhibitions, artist residencies and cultural events. Here, one can contemplate monumental sculptures by artists or watch film projections. The foundation is committed to showcasing a variety that reflects contemporary African art. Those who want to mix business with pleasure can enjoy a drink on the superb terrace.

Boulevard Latrille, Cocody ENA. Open Tuesday - Saturday 10:00am - 01:00am Abidjan, Côte d’Ivoire Abidjan, Côte

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Facebook Community City Guide Community Facebook A community mindset In Abidjan, you will notice a sense of community spirit, which includes mutual aid and solidarity initiatives. Facebook groups such as “Les Zinzins du Bonheur” (in English: Crazy about spreading joy) and “Bénévoles de premiers secours” (in English: The First Aid Volunteers) bring thousands of people together to help respond to humanitarian needs. These community values have even led to entire neighbourhoods being renovated, such as the Abobo commune or the village of Abobo Baoulé, transforming them into places Abidjan, Côte d’Ivoire Abidjan, Côte with unique personalities that are worth visiting. 41 42

Facebook Group Facebook Group

Facebook Community City Guide Community Facebook Les Bénévoles Zinzins du de premiers Bonheur secours in English: Crazy about spreading joy in English: First Aid Volunteers

The members of this Facebook group reach With more than 290,000 members, out to help the most disadvantaged, but the First Aid Volunteers are now a reference always with joy, good humour and dancing. in the humanitarian field. Every day, many On their Facebook page, which has 22,300 of its members don’t hesitate to come to the members, you can see the various actions rescue of those in need. For them, “Carrying they carry out daily, from collecting donations good acts is not a choice, but a civic duty“. to raising awareness on environmental issues. Thanks to the mobilisation they’ve been able The Zinzins are everyday heroes motivated to achieve on social media, they manage by the idea of donating their time individually to collect funds to pay for the care of sick and the strength of collective efforts. children. Abidjan, Côte d’Ivoire Abidjan, Côte

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Abobo is Zo Launched in July 2020, “Abobo est Zo“, which is an expression that means “Abobo is beautiful“, is the name of this initiative to rehabilitate this commune of Abidjan, labelled as having difficult living conditions. This initiative has allowed Abobo to change their image for the better, Facebook Group becoming a temple of street art made in Africa, where one can now admire walls and facades filled with a range of colours and graffiti art, some signed by the popular painter Obou.

Facebook Community City Guide Community Facebook Les enfants d’Abobo in English: The Children of Abobo This group brings together the inhabitants of the Abobo commune and those who have lived in this commune, which happens to be one of the most disadvantaged in Abidjan. On the group’s page, members freely post information about the commune, flashbacks, photos and stories. Abidjan, Côte d’Ivoire Abidjan, Côte

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The DJ Arafat Intersection The DJ Arafat intersection is a place of cultural pilgrimage in Abidjan. It’s in this place that fans of the music star DJ Arafat, who tragically died in a motorcycle accident in August 2019, come to gather. His community of fans, who call themselves “Les Chinois“, have not forgotten him and regularly come to pay tribute to one of the biggest names in Ivorian music.

DJ Arafat Intersection, Cocody Angré, 7th section. Facebook Community City Guide Community Facebook

Abobo Baoulé, the model village Located between the communes of Abobo and Cocody, Abobo Baoulé is a small village full of charm with its flower-filled roundabouts and beautiful public gardens. Its inclusive and sustainable development model has become a reference for other villages in the country. Abidjan, Côte d’Ivoire Abidjan, Côte

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Abidjan Community City Guide Abidjan Community Abidjan and its influencers Abidjan, Côte d’Ivoire Abidjan, Côte

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Facebook Community City Guide Community Facebook Obou Visual artist

I love Abidjan for its infectious energy, its dabali*, the warmth of the people and, above all, the party scene. Abidjan is everything!

Born in 1992, Obou Gbais is a young painter of the Ivorian creative scene. He is known for his colourful masks mixing tradition and modernity. Behind these mysterious faces, you find not only art, but also a committed artist. Marked by the war, he depicts Ivorian society in a raw and truthful way that shows both the ugly and beautiful sides of things. This was the essence of an artistic movement called “Braid Art“. Obou does not hesitate to multiply his artistic performances, notably with his gigantic mural that he painted in Abobo, always with the ambition of changing the way people look at things. Abidjan is everything! Abidjan, Côte d’Ivoire Abidjan, Côte * See Nouchi slang dictionary page 56 © Julia Thielke 51 52 I had just earned my secondary school diploma that year. I had to leave the town of Divo where I grew up to go to Abidjan, the capital, the sweetest place in the world. I was finally about to experience it for myself. I had to live with my aunt who lived out in 2 Plateaux, in those old buildings that saw every bit of Abidjan’s rapid urbanisation.

Facebook Community City Guide Community Facebook Lafalaise Fashion Dion designer I would walk down Latrille Boulevard every day to get to the establishment I was going to at the time. Along the way, there was a massive wall and huge trees covered with leaves. I started reading what I saw written on that massive wall: “Ananias Leki Dago“. It was a name. And that was the first time A childhood dream, I saw the Donwahi Foundation. That name written in large letters. It was the name of one of the most talented finally come true Ivorian photographers who was presenting an exhibition there. I repeated his name to myself so many times that day. And then, as time went by, there were other names, other artists I would discover on that same wall, and then go look up on Lafalaise Dion is an Ivorian fashion designer. She has become famous for her beautiful ornaments made from cowrie shells, which have Google. The Donwahi Foundation, for me, represents a place been used for centuries in West Africa. Her creations, by drawing from where knowledge is within reach, a place for research, to ancestral African art, contribute to the promotion of African culture connect with nature, but above all, a home for artists that gives throughout the world. It didn’t take long for her to reach a great level them a chance to showcase their talent. This year, I had the of success. The designer has appeared in many of the biggest fashion magazines and made pieces for international stars, including musician opportunity to make my first artistic performance there. Abidjan, Côte d’Ivoire Abidjan, Côte Beyoncé. A childhood dream, finally come true. 53 54

Konnie Facebook Community City Guide Community Facebook Touré Radio and TV host, producer and actress

My absolute favourite has to be Hôtel Particulier. I love this hotel situated in the heart of Abidjan. There’s I like to escape something about its modern design that creates a peaceful and romantic ambiance. I am a huge fan of the city life this place and others like that feel like a refuge from the busy urban city life. Abidjan is a great city to live in and is a place where having a good time just Konnie Touré is one of the most followed female public figures in comes naturally. So, how about you? Will you come Côte d’Ivoire. She is a radio and TV host, producer, singer, actress and take full advantage of these places and discover and, today, the managing director of one of the highest-rated radio why Abidjan is the sweetest city in the world? I highly stations in the country. Her professional track record and vision make her an icon for the younger generation. Konnie Touré is a ball of Abidjan, Côte d’Ivoire Abidjan, Côte recommend you do. optimism and energy. 55 56

Enjaillement Party / Fun / Entertainment Etre dans pain Having worries / problems Nouchi slang Etre enjaillé Extremely happy Etre piqué / moisi / Tchass Being in a precarious financial situation / without money dictionary Faire un atalakou Praising Faroter / se blôfer / se laka Showing off / being clever Nouchi is Ivorian slang. It’s a mixture of French, Fo gbayé To talk and words and expressions from local languages Fo le Kpokpo You have to talk to him spoken in other West African countries. Some Fo le Wélé You should call him Facebook Community City Guide Community Facebook popular Nouchi words have even made it into the Fo mé couman Talk to me Larousse dictionary. Fo té po Sit down Fraya Escape Gaou Naive / Green Nouchi English Gbangban A chaotic situation Gbasser Put you under a spell / enchanting Barre fils 1,500 CFA Francs Gbè est mieux que dra Even hurtful truth is better Beou Leaving; getting out of there than shame. Brobroli Job Gbé He is full (after having ate) / Ça ment pas It’s good quality satisfied / rich (in some cases) Chui bôrô I am happy Gbon 5, 000 Francs Côcô Leeching off of someone or something Gomie The young girl Coyi He is gone Il a Douff He is deceased / dead Dabali Food Il a le jeton/ Il a le djai He has a lot of money / He has the cash Dal Hunger / hungry Kessia What’s up? Dangôrô A great man Kôrô A person older than yourself, Danhéré He is strong like an older brother Dêmin-dêmin/Grouiller, grigra Working hard / Grinding / Hustling Kpakpatoya Gossip Dibi-dibi Suspicious / sketchy Kpata Pretty Dja He’s dead Kpêkpêro A person younger than Djassa The market yourself, like a young brother

Enjaillé I am amazed / satisfied krangba / popodipo I am sitting down and have no d’Ivoire Abidjan, Côte intention of moving. 57 58

Krika 1,000 CFA Francs Mon Djai My money Mousso My Wife / Sweetheart On se dit les gbês We speak frankly to each other Plomb/Togo 100 CFA Francs Poto Eating greedily with your fingers Prendre dra To suffer the consequences of one’s actions

Facebook Community City Guide Community Facebook Se gnépé Getting drunk Siri To catch, to seize Sômon Sleep Taper poteaux Fail Togo cinquante 150 CFA Francs Tu es dans mes Kpakites /Dents I am madly in love with you Un goumin A heartache Un kpakpato Person who likes gossip / likes talk about others Y’a dra There is a major issue Y’a foye/Y’a fo / Y’en a de fologo Nothing new / All is well Yé si fan (de toi) I like you Ye si Kalé / Voilà moi Here I am / This is me Yé si po I’m sitting down Zango Well dressed Zouker dans le jeton de quelqu’un/ Spending or wasting Bouffer, vaper, daba ou badou le someone’s money / Taking full jeton de quelqu’un of advantage Abidjan, Côte d’Ivoire Abidjan, Côte

59 Acknowledgements

Ministry of Digital Economy, Telecommunications and Innovation of Côte d’Ivoire Ministry of Tourism and Leisure of Côte d’Ivoire as well as Peintre Obou.

Photo credits and copyright

Cover - Abidjan News, Peintre Obou, 2020. Page 10 - Love inter-culturel, Peintre Obou, 2020. Page 18 - Lune de miel à Anono, Peintre Obou, 2020. Page 26 - Le polygame 03, Peintre Obou, 2020. Page 32 - Lady Dan 04, Peintre Obou, 2020. Page 2, 40 and 61 - Les Kpata Mousso d’Abobo, Peintre Obou, 2020. Page 48 - Museum Anono, Peintre Obou, 2020.

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