WWDMILESTONES SECTION II HOTO ASSISTANT: LAUREN POGGI; FASHION ASSISTANT: CATHERINE BROADBENT; STYLED BY MAYTE ALLENDE MAYTE STYLED BY BROADBENT; CATHERINE ASSISTANT: LAUREN POGGI; FASHION HOTO ASSISTANT:
REFLECTIONS Tahari FROM ELIE TAHARI BUILDING THE At 40 BUSINESS A journey to America leads to four decades on Seventh MEN’S WEAR, Avenue and a $500 million DIGITAL, sportswear powerhouse. LICENSING AND MORE MODEL PHOTO BY GEORGE CHINSEE; An Elie Tahari look for spring. PORTRAIT BY THOMAS IANNACCONE MODEL: DARIA P/WILHELMINA; HAIR BY JEANIE SYFU USING TRESEMMÉ/ARTMIX BEAUTY; MAKEUP BY DAVID STELLA FOR ELLIS FAAS COSMETICS; P STELLA DAVID FOR ELLIS FAAS MAKEUP BY BEAUTY; JEANIE SYFUMODEL: DARIA P/WILHELMINA; USING TRESEMMÉ/ARTMIX HAIR BY 2 WWD TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2013
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WWDMILESTONES Tahari’s Travels Key moments over four decades of building a sportswear giant.
1971 Q Women’s outerwear in partnership with S. Q Handbags launch at Bergdorf Goodman. Elie Tahari moves from Israel to the U.S. and 510 Fifth Avenue Rothschild and the T Tahari line launch. Q A men’s suit collection is introduced in eventually gets work in New York’s Garment QRory Tahari, creative director, is named partnership with Peerless Clothing. Center as an electrician’s assistant. vice chairman. Q Kobi Halperin is named executive creative director, succeeding Rory Tahari, who leaves 1973 2008 the company. Tahari popularizes the tube top. Terry Richardson photographs the spring 2008 ad campaign with model 1974 Erin Wasson. Begins designing namesake label Tahari. Q Tahari holds its spring 2009 runway show at The Four Seasons Restaurant. Q A freestanding boutique opens in Boca Raton, Fla., and in-store shops bow in London and Russia. W Tahari offers a limited-edition swimwear and caftan collection in collaboration with artist Kenny Scharf.
2002 Fabien Baron redesigns the logo as the The Dallas boutique. company name changes to Elie Tahari.
2003 V The designer opens Tahari sells his stake in 2011 his first boutique on Theory to Link International Q Freestanding boutiques open in Madison Avenue. and Fast Retailing; Andrew Washington and Dallas, and expanded in- Rosen retains his stake. store shops open with Neiman Marcus in 1977 Dallas, and Bloomingdale’s in New York. First fashion show 2004 Q E-commerce begins at elietahari.com at Studio 54. The company opens its Q T Tahari jewelry launches. first freestanding boutiques Q Tahari collaborates with actress Emmy 1989 in New York’s SoHo Rossum to create the Emmy Bag to benefit Tahari is named neighborhood and Las Vegas. Safe Horizon, and the designer partners one of Crain’s with Jennifer Hudson and Saks Fifth most successful 2005 Avenue for Key to the Cure benefiting 40 under 40. A freestanding store bows in Women’s Cancer Research Fund. Atlanta, followed by Boston a Q Tahari takes a stake in Catherine 1990 year later. Malandrino to expand the brand with a First WWD front page. diffusion line, new product categories and 2006 in international markets. 1992 The launch of the Alan Grosman is men’s wear collection 2012 named president 1984 and women’s accessories Q Tahari is a guest judge on of Tahari. with shoes and belts. “Project Runway All Stars” Season 2. Q Tahari sues his former Q The designer is honored by 1994 business partner Rosen Worldwide Orphans. Tom Murry succeeds Alan Grosman and 10 other defendants in New York State Q Freestanding boutique opens in Qatar. as president. Supreme Court in a dispute over the sale Q Tahari is admitted to the Council of of Theory. Ultimately, the case was settled 2013 Fashion Designers of America. out of court. An eyewear collection and men’s furnishings Q The designer goes to the White House are introduced. and meets with the Clintons. 2007 Q The company sells a majority stake in The company opens its European Catherine Malandrino to Bluestar Alliance. 1996 headquarters in Milan, and a store in W Sept. 4 is designated Elie Tahari Day Tahari moves into new digs in the East Hampton, N.Y. In-store shops open by the City of New York, in recognition Grace Building on West 42nd Street and at Saks Fifth Avenue in Beverly Hills and of the company’s 40th anniversary. initiates a major expansion campaign, Bloomingdale’s in San Francisco. including licensing, international sales and a fragrance. With Joan Rivers on Elie Tahari Day. 1997 Tahari teams with Andrew Rosen to launch Theory, a line of stretch sportswear that hits 2009 stores in February. V Tahari designs a limited-edition bicycle with proceeds going to Matthew Modine’s 1998 charity Bicycle for a Day. Mark Mendelson joins Tahari Ltd. QThe company opens in-store shops in as president of sales and marketing. Korea and Paris. QThe company signs a deal for leather Q Men’s dress shirts and ties are introduced and active outerwear with Synergy Sport in partnership with Phillips-Van Heusen. International of Hong Kong, and for a line Q Tahari’s iPhone application for the fall of hats with Forget-Me-Not Hats. collections makes its debut.
2001 2010 Tahari purchases 510 Fifth Avenue, which The designer holds a fall runway show becomes the brand’s design center. for the first time at Bryant Park as part of Q Arthur S. Levine partners with the designer Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week. to form Tahari ASL, which includes the Q In-store shops open in Dubai and Mexico, Tahari Arthur S. Levine brand of suits and and freestanding boutiques open in Istanbul dresses, as well as a private-label division. East Hampton, N.Y. and Newport Beach, Calif. PHOTO BY STEVE EICHNER PHOTO BY Congratulations to
on 40 years 40of success 4 WWD TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2013 SECTION II
WWDMILESTONES A Well-Suited Life Elie Tahari reflects on his evolution, career and current philosophy. By Marc Karimzadeh
THE NOTES TO Elie Tahari’s first fashion show — for the Tahari label on Resort 2000 April 24, 1978 — promised a “Fashion Spring 2012 Spectacular.” Held at Studio 54, which had opened just a few weeks prior, the designer had assembled the right models and the right music of the moment (the runway soundtrack included hits of the time, like “More Than a Woman,” “Sophisticated Lady,” “Gigolo” and “Walk in Love”). It was a major moment for Tahari, who, in just a few years, had become a hot fashion commodity with his Morning Lady dresses, Midnight Lady tops and the Danièle O collection. But it was the day after the show that had the real impact, for reasons that were much less spectacular. “The next night, I felt like s--t,” the designer recalled, chuckling. “[Studio 54 co-owner] Ian Schrager told me after my show, ‘Come tomorrow, and we’ll figure out how much you owe me, so you can write me the check.’ I arrive at Studio 54 in an old Rolls-Royce, and Mark [Benecke] at the door sees me and says, ‘Tahari, your party was last night. You’re confused, it’s not tonight.’ I say to him — and I was wearing this beige John Travolta suit — ‘Ian is waiting for me in the office.’ ‘Well, he can wait,’ he says. ‘You’re not on the
Spring 1985 PHOTOS BY ROBERT KIRK AND GEORGE CHINSEE ROBERT PHOTOS BY
list. You can wait all night.’” iting a friend he had met at the kibbutz, America was everything he’d envisioned Talk about a reality check. and ultimately to New York, where, from watching Hollywood movies as “I got so insulted, and I realized at more than four decades later, he now a kid, and then some. New York, a city that moment — and this was the biggest heads a $500 million fashion enterprise. with a vibrant and visible Jewish com- thing in my life — that I am not the hot “When I was growing up, I did not munity and many Israeli expats, provid- s--t I thought I am. That’s what started know that I was in pain,” said Tahari, ed a sense of belonging and home that breaking down my ego, because I had a reflecting with candor on his early had previously eluded him. strong ego then.” years. His parents had left their native “I was no longer different — sud- It should still be noted that it took Iran for Israel, and Tahari spent part of denly I was treated according to my Schrager six months and daily phone his life at an orphanage. “Life was filled character and the way I treat others,” calls to Tahari to finally get his money. with steady crisis. I had seen a lot at a he said. “If I treat others nice, they treat “He made it happen, because I would young age. I grew up in Israel, I came to you nice here. New York is the least have never paid him,” Tahari said. America in 1971. I was completely con- judgmental and most accepting city on Sitting in his light-filled office on fused. Everything about America was a planet Earth.” West 42nd Street that is decorated with dream. Coming here, it was daily growth Like so many New York rags-to- a tasteful mix of contemporary art and and inspiration. riches stories, though, not all was roses furniture, some 35 years later, Tahari “I wasn’t that eloquent or knowledge- at first, and eventually, the young, penni- is full of such colorful anecdotes, each able about America,” he added. “My less Tahari found himself on the streets replete with a life lesson of sorts while education was through movies. So for of Gotham. also demonstrating the designer’s me, to escape to a different planet was “I slept everywhere,” he said, but charm and passion. At age 61, Tahari to sneak into movie houses and see a stressed that in a city like New York, he is still as willing to take risks as he was different world. When I got to America, never felt like he was homeless. “I was at when he came to America from his na- that energy and culture that I saw in the a picnic. New York was alive 24 hours. A tive Israel when he was just 19 with less movies suddenly became a reality.” kind man found me an emergency shel- than $100 in his pocket. He recalled how, arriving in New ter. It was sponsored by the St. Marks The Tahari story is the classic York in 1971, he made his way from Church on 69 St. Marks Place. It was for American dream: a mix of hard work, John F. Kennedy International Airport boys who had run away from home with keen instinct and fashion savvy that led to the YMCA on the Upper West Side nowhere to go, and they found jobs [for from an Israeli kibbutz to a short stint in (which is, incidentally, right by his them]. I was under 22, so I could stay.” Manchester, England, where he was vis- current home on Central Park West). {Continued on page 6} WWD TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2013 5 WWD.COM
Elie Tahari in his studio last month. PHOTO BY THOMAS IANNACCONE PHOTO BY 6 WWD TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2013
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{Continued from page 4} workplace,” Tahari said. “I wanted to manager,” Tahari reflected. “I went to a lot since those early days. He now Not that Tahari needed much help. create clothes that made them feel pow- lunch and there were 12 people there. designs women’s and men’s apparel as Demonstrating his can-do attitude and erful, clothes that they could wear into I didn’t know how to handle myself. well as accessories, including hand- survival instinct, he was at a diner on the boardroom and feel confident in. He gave me a sip of wine, and I never bags and eyewear, and footwear. He First Avenue and struck up a conversa- The power suit and work pants became drank without food. I hadn’t even had also has a retail network that, domes- tion that eventually landed him a job my most popular designs. The pants breakfast. They wanted to give me a tically, includes boutiques in prime as a helper for two electrical compa- had a flat front and were made from spot in the most central location where locations, such as on Fifth Avenue and nies in the Garment Center, putting to soft fabric. Women were spending long they do the most business. Marvin said in SoHo in Manhattan, as well as East use electrician skills he had learned hours at the office, and it was important to me, ‘Elie, I know what’s good for Hampton, N.Y., Dallas, Las Vegas and while studying electrical engineering for me to create something comfortable you. That’s the best location because it Atlanta. Globally, there are freestand- in the Israeli Air Force. yet stylish for them to wear. has the most traffic.’ I said, ‘I don’t like ing stores in Istanbul, Warsaw and His fashion trajectory really kicked “Ladies loved the power suit — it the [resources] I am around. I want to Doha in Qatar. Major stores like Saks into high gear with his other job, work- gave them the ability to wear some- be next to designers.’” and Bloomingdale’s devote significant ing the evening shift at the Fig Leaf thing other than a dress or skirt to A heated back-and-forth resulted in real estate to the designer. clothing boutique in Greenwich Village. The job revolved around two major tasks — “to sell, Elie Tahari at work in 1998. and to meet women,” he laughed. “I worked with three other Persians. We’re still friends today — three handsome guys and all the girls were coming to the store. I was a nightbird. I would go out at night. That’s how I learned about fashion.” He learned enough about fashion and retail to inspire him to open his own store, Elie’s Boutique, on East 53rd Street between Second and Third Avenues, on the same street as Betsy Bunky Nini, and, as he pointed out, on “the cor- ner where the gay prosti- tutes stood.” “A week after I opened, somebody broke in the front door and took everything inside,” he said. “I had no insur- ance, no credit, nothing.” Not one to give up on his store, he took the challenge as a blessing and turned it into an opportunity. “They were build- ing the Citicorp tower and knocking the block down, so I went and took a gate from a building about to be torn down. We installed it. Then I went to Broadway to the fabric stores, bought fab- rics for 50 cents a yard and decorated the store with them.” Observing real women on the street, he became acutely aware of their fashion preferences, and in 1973, one of his first hits became the tube top, inspired by the Seventies’ club culture and the pro- PHOTO © PHILIP GREENBERG clivity for many young women of that era to go braless. He found bandeaulike, printed work, and they felt empowered. To this Tahari throwing down his napkin, getting Going through such significant Indian gauze fabric tubes — a manu- day, women still come up to me and up midway through the meal and leaving. growth, there were many high points facturing error — in a New York store say, ‘I wore a Tahari suit on my first day “I walked out and said, ‘That’s the and low moments, plenty of success- owned by Murray Kleid, bought up the of work,’ or ‘I wore Tahari on my first end.’ Then Barbara Bass came here with es (including the founding of Theory stock and had elastic sewn into the interview and got the job.’” a bag of candy and said, ‘Marvin doesn’t in 1997 and several wise retail in- pieces. In his hands, the look became a He pioneered the bridge movement want to have lunch with you anymore. vestments) and some that were less disco-ready hit. and became one of the top names in This time he wants to have breakfast.’” so (i.e., his failed 2004 attempt to buy “I knew that these bandeaus would modern sportswear, which was driven It was an astute gesture, and an Barneys New York). Asked to recount be a hit,” he recalled. “It was complete by items rather than ensembles. even better idea, as talks resulted in some of the highlights and challeng- fate. I started the tube-top craze and It didn’t take long for Tahari getting his own prime spot in es, Tahari, who has been studying began my career off of a pure accident.” Bloomingdale’s to notice, as did the store. A Bloomingdale’s ad in the the Kabbalah in the past couple of He also made a splash in the late Charivari, Neiman Marcus, Bergdorf New York Times in March 1983 pro- years, deflected. Seventies with disco dresses, includ- Goodman, Saks Fifth Avenue and claimed the Tahari boutique “a plea- “The low is where you correct your ing the tube dress and the handker- Barneys New York. His first encounter sure palace, a hexagon complex with direction,” he said. “So the lows, the chief dress. Before long, Tahari moved with Bloomingdale’s then-president two pavilions in a luxurious Chinese challenges, are where the blessing is. on from nightclubs to boardrooms, de- Marvin Traub spoke volumes about motif,” adding that the Tahari name It’s all Kabbalah. I have always been signing suits that captured the essence Tahari’s confidence and conviction. “may be new to you but remember it in thirst of spirituality and looking for of the time. “I had a lunch date with Marvin well, for Elie is one of the prime design truths. I study Kabbalah because I find “It was the Eighties, and women re- Traub, who had heard about me from talents of the Eighties.” it is endless truth.” ally began to make their mark in the Barbara Bass, his general merchandise Tahari’s business has evolved quite {Continued on page 8} CONGRATULATIONS TO CUSTOMER
ON 40 YEARS AS A FASHION POWERHOUSE
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{Continued from page 6} Fall 1985 There are still some classic Elie- An ad from isms that remain part of his daily the Eighties. philosophy, among them, “Even a kick in the ass is good when it faces the right direction.” He admits that he is more spiritual than he has ever been, and his Middle Eastern roots continue to play an im- portant role in the Tahari story. In fact, bowls full of roasted almonds are placed throughout his headquarters; his executive assistant arranged for baklava for this meeting. For his 40th milestone, he created a capsule called Elie Tahari Edition 1974, with updated versions of his most iconic looks, including a new tube top, jumpsuit, power suit, tuxedo and several signature leather pieces for spring 2014. These looks will be unveiled as part of his spring presentation today. “Over the years, I feel so blessed to have had the opportunity to make
an impact on the fashion world,” forward to the next 40 years filled with Tahari said. “I was one of a small light and truth.” group of designers to create a mod- His life mission goes far beyond ern sportswear section in depart- just making clothes. These days, he ment stores. It was important to loves nothing more than spending serve our customers and meet their time with his children — 12-year-old needs. I wanted to create a shopping Jeremy and nine-year-old Zoe — and area, which eventually became whole his girlfriend, Joanne Blessinger. floors where ladies could have their Tahari takes his future on spiritually. blouses, dresses, jackets. This was “I feel my work on planet Earth has the birth of modern sportswear, at only just begun,” he said. “Business that time called bridge. is a means to do your real work. I feel “When I reflect over the past 40 I have a reason for me to really go to years, I am so grateful to my loyal work, and the reason I am here is not Elie Tahari had a hit with customers. They are my biggest ac- only to do with our industry and busi- the tube top in 1973. complishment, the ones who made my ness. I am appreciative for this life
PHOTO BY GEORGE CHINSEE PHOTO BY dreams a reality,” he reflected. “I look and owe a lot to it in return.”
Manhattan’s Chelsea neighborhood. The hangout was viewed by more than one million fans. Scott Currie Several digital initiatives surrounding the brand’s 40th anniversary launched last week, when the de- Chic Click signer was honored by New York City and Mayor Michael Bloomberg on “Elie Tahari Day.” The Expanding the digital initiative. hashtag #ElieTahari40, created to mark the occa- By Rachel Strugatz sion, is appearing on the social platforms where it maintains a presence, as well as on shopping bags, ELIE TAHARI REVEALED via Skype the winner of print ads, elietahari.com, e-mail signatures company- his New York Fashion Week competition last month, wide and online banner ads. during which entrants had to “like” the brand’s “What I find to be the biggest change is how Facebook page and post a comment with the hashtag engaged the consumer has become,” said Scott #ElieTahari40. Currie, Elie Tahari vice president of global com- The brand then took this a step further: The con- munications. “The beginning was just about push- versation was recorded and broadcast across Elie ing out material about the brand, but once Elie Tahari’s social channels so followers on Facebook, got really involved in social [it changed]. If you Twitter and Instagram could watch the announce- look on Facebook or Twitter, there is a nice en- ment. Tahari received more than 2,500 entries for gagement rate of people writing back and giving the contest. us insight. When we announced Elie Tahari Day, “Instead of inviting somebody from Los Angeles the number of people that wrote to congratulate to New York to present to the winner, we did it on- him was amazing.” line so everyone could see it. Years ago, we had a The company also operates ETC Magazine, its personal appearance, and now it’s a ‘public appear- online magazine that features trends, behind-the- ance’ [because of digital]. Now you can help more scenes shots, celebrities spotted wearing Elie Tahari people online,” Tahari said, describing tools like and celebrity contributors like Jessica Stam, also the Skype and Google Hangouts. In July, the designer face of the fall ad campaign. participated in a Google Hangout with blogger Kelly Product shots garner a strong response from fans, Saks and Glamour magazine at Google’s offices in as well as anything pertaining to Tahari’s personal life — whether it’s a quote from him or a photo of him speaking at a class — Currie said. The company unveiled the 40th anniversary logo on Instagram to coincide with Mayor Bloomberg’s proclamation. It also revealed images from its spe- cial 40th anniversary capsule collection exclusively on the platform, with select styles available for pre- order on elietahari.com in January. Beyond the social channels — on which Currie ad- THOMAS IANNACCONE PHOTO BY mitted Elie Tahari didn’t become heavily active until about two years ago — e-commerce has become in- bilities, and international shipping will be available creasingly integral to the business. in early September. According to Currie, the brand’s digital flagship As for the digital marketing spend, a significant por- at elietahari.com is the company’s number-one store tion is dedicated to paid search, but Currie maintains — and it has been since six months after launching that the brand has never had a “huge ad spend.” at the end of 2011. Ten percent of direct sales comes “We create synergies across all mediums,” he said. from elietahari.com. “The new campaign hitting now is consistently launch- A shot of ETC Magazine. The site just enabled review and feedback capa- ing as banner ads [online], print ads and in-store.”
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WWDMILESTONES Galvin’s Game Plan Chief executive officer Bob Galvin is working with the designer on expansion and transforming the company’s mind-set. By Lisa Lockwood
BOB GALVIN, chief executive offi- propriate, and that the fit is ap- cer of Elie Tahari Ltd., is on a mis- Bob Galvin propriate,” added Galvin. sion to bring a retail mentality to the In fact, one point of differen- sportswear stalwart. tiation about Tahari’s line is the “We want to think and act like multigenerational aspect. “There retailers in what we do,” said are moms that come in with their Galvin, who was hired last January daughters and both come out with to strengthen and position the $500 an Elie Tahari wardrobe that’s ap- million fashion company for aggres- propriate for them,” said Galvin. sive growth. He was charged with Galvin said Tahari has never spearheading wholesale, retail and considered a different label for international sales for women’s and the casual aspects of the line, be- men’s collections, as well as fortify- lieving that the Elie Tahari brand ing such areas as accessories, mer- is elastic enough to be both casu- chandising, marketing, licensing, al and career. In 2002, Tahari had product development and produc- his logo redesigned by Fabien tion. His appointment freed up Elie Baron and they changed the com- Tahari, chairman, to focus on prod- pany’s moniker to Elie Tahari so uct and design. it would have a designer name. Galvin said his primary attrac- The ratio of career to casual tion to the brand was the opportu- has changed in the past 25 years, nity to work with Tahari. along with what is considered “Elie is a visionary and product acceptable to wear on the job, genius,” said Galvin, who cut his Galvin said. teeth at Camuto Group, Fila and “Career clothing has evolved Nine West. “When you have a brand over the years along with wom- that’s survived for 40 years, that’s a en’s roles in the workplace. wonderful combination.” Twenty-five years ago, women When he joined the company, the were not given too many options first thing he did was get to know the when it came to work attire. designer, to understand his vision Today there is so much more flex- and what he valued so they were ibility as the corporate world has moving in the right direction. become less formal and women “What Elie had established was a have many more options, so it wonderful foundation over 40 years. would be hard to determine what There was a lot of diversification percentage would be designated built in. You had a men’s business as exclusively ‘career.’ and you had a women’s business. “We find that for work, the You had a specialty store business, Elie Tahari woman buys transi- outlet store business and e-com- tional pieces and styles of dress- merce business. You had Elie Tahari es and separates that she can Collection and the diffusion lines, T wear to work and also take her Tahari [which was launched in 2007 into the evening for dinner or as an exclusive with Macy’s and is cocktails,” he said. now widely distributed] and Tahari Asked how they are able to [an off-price label],” said Galvin. stay young and bring in the next Nevertheless, there were places that generation of Elie Tahari custom- were underdeveloped. ers, Galvin said the company is Women’s currently generates 85 taking several steps. percent of the business, while men’s “One is having the younger accounts for 15 percent. customer get to know Elie Tahari, His main priorities have been to the person and the designer. It’s expand Tahari’s men’s business, T always easier when you can con- Tahari, licensing (see page 18), global nect to that person, so social and direct-to-consumer operations. media is a big initiative,” he said. Tahari launched its e-commerce Web “Elie is a true designer, and it’s site in August 2011. “With a lot of ef- people getting to know him.
fort and energy, it will double in sales THOMAS IANNACCONE PHOTO BY “The other thing is, if you look this year,” said Galvin. at Elie’s designs, they’re true to Thinking and acting like retailers who that customer is, and there’s is a common thread that weaves through everything cludes units for the collection and outlets. There also a modern element, so it’s attractive to a younger they do. One of Galvin’s goals is to control and en- are more than 600 points of distribution for the Elie consumer at the same time.” hance the customer experience, whether it’s online, Tahari collection. The designer keeps tabs on the contemporary in the company’s own freestanding stores or at whole- “What I’ve tried to instill with Elie’s support is market by shopping the stores, talking to customers sale accounts. that we need to expand [the brand’s] footprint as far and making personal appearances. “He always comes The team consistently strives to improve the brand as the product and presence is concerned. While Elie back inspired from one of these trips,” said Galvin. message, the look of the visuals and the product, as has a tremendous amount of mind share in terms of Tahari plans to expand its retail presence in the well as how the sales associates and brand ambassa- consumer awareness and recognition, I like to think U.S. and abroad. Right now, the company is consid- dors present the merchandise in the stores. our responsibility is to increase the closet share of ering locations in such markets as Los Angeles, New “Do they understand the product, and do they Elie Tahari. Most consumers out there are aware of York, San Francisco, Chicago and Miami for addition- have the proper tools and training to enhance the who Elie Tahari is and the depth, credibility and di- al freestanding stores. sales experience?” asked Galvin. rection of his product,” he said. “From a store perspective, I look for us to grow Over the past year, the firm has made several key Galvin acknowledged that Tahari was known more in a double-digit manner over the next few years,” hires to improve the sales team, as well as nam- for career in the early days, and has since evolved into said Galvin. ing Fabio Guidetti president of international for a full lifestyle collection. “So it’s not just 9 to 5 in the Tahari opened a full-price pop-up shop in June at Tahari. There are close to 150 dedicated people in work environment, but it’s 9 a.m. to 11 p.m., seven days 510 Fifth Avenue in New York, which he’s using as a the field through department store programs and a week,” he said. The suitings and dresses are now laboratory. Products are manufactured on the fourth field merchandisers. rounded out with denim, casual T-shirts and knitwear. and fifth floors of the building and are then tested in the At present, Tahari has 12 freestanding specialty “Elie’s always concerned that his woman — store. The space is frequently the site of photo shoots. stores and just under 40 stores in total, which in- whether she’s 25, 45 or 55 — looks great and feels ap- {Continued on page 12}
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Galvin’s Game Plan The Middle East is a major growth spot. Here, the shop in Istanbul.
{Continued from page 10} “Elie’s vision is to take that and roll it out to a larger retail footprint,” said Galvin. He noted, too, that Tahari and the visual, sales, marketing and design teams spend time in the store. “Elie’s always going down there. That’s where he starts and ends his day. We do test shoots for the e- commerce team down there. We do set-ups for the mannequin displays, and we have DJs on Thursdays.” He said the store is also a useful tool to get customer feedback — “It’s part commercial and part experimental.” The pop-up will remain open through the end of the year. To celebrate its 40th anniversary, Tahari will offer Elie Tahari Edition 1974, a select group of pieces that encapsulate his career, such as a suit, a leath- er piece, a tube top and a trenchcoat. They will be available in stores this spring. International expansion is another big initia- tive at the firm. Currently, Tahari is distributed in more than 30 countries, including Australia, Hong Kong, Indonesia, the Philippines, South Korea, Taiwan, Belgium, Germany, Italy, Ireland, the U.K., the Netherlands, Poland, Russia, Azerbaijan, Spain, Portugal, Turkey, Brazil, Dominican Republic, Mexico, Panama, Dubai, Israel, Kuwait, Qatar, Saudi Arabia, Bermuda and South Africa. “We are growing in Eastern Europe, Middle East and Asia,” said Guidetti, who was previously senior vice president of international sales at St. John. “We are currently registering great sell-through perfor- mance from the spring 2013 season. Our major part- ners in Spain, Mexico and Korea are also registering a positive performance from the previous year.” At present, 10 percent of Tahari’s business is done overseas, with plans to grow to 30 percent, he said. There are 250 points of distribution overseas and nearly 50 freestanding shops. Guidetti noted that over the next 12 months, the main focus will be on China, Eastern Europe, the U.K., France and Germany. “I always welcome and target customers and cit- ies where the affluence of tourism is growing and be- coming a significant part of their business,” he said. He noted that this month, the company’s e-commerce site will add the capabilities to ship internationally to more than 100 countries. Interestingly, Tahari has built a half-billion-dollar business (in wholesale and retail sales) with relative- in developing an e-commerce Web site. Tahari also The biggest wholesale markets currently for the ly little traditional advertising. likes to go into the stores, make personal appearanc- Elie Tahari brand are New York, California, Las Vegas, “We haven’t had a big advertising presence,” said es and get involved with charity events, such as Saks Florida and Dallas. The brand also does a strong busi- Scott Currie, vice president of global communica- Fifth Avenue’s “Catwalk for the Cure,” an annual ness in Greenwich, Conn., and Houston. Top accounts tions. “She [the customer] is coming in for the clothes event that takes place in Houston in November. This are Saks Fifth Avenue, Bloomingdale’s, Bergdorf because she identifies with the brand.” year, as the featured designer, Tahari will present a Goodman and Neiman Marcus. Galvin noted that Elie Galvin said the company made a big investment fashion show of his spring looks at the Hotel ZaZa. Tahari is the largest sportswear vendor at Saks and is in 43 doors. The brand has the largest space on the “Wear Now” fourth floor, a 2,500-square-foot shop. Joseph Boitano, group senior vice president and general merchandise manager of Saks, said, “Tahari has been and continues to be an important brand for Saks Fifth Avenue. Their dedication to outstanding design, precise tailoring and use of elegant fabrics is exactly what the Saks customer wants.” At Bloomingdale’s, “For the last 20 years, Elie has been the backbone of our New View department,” said Frank Doroff, vice chairman and general merchandise manager of ready-to-wear and bloomingdales.com. Galvin said for the current fall season, product has performed well and the initial read is strong. Besides helping transform the company’s mind- set, creating a vibrant international business and ex- panding products and direct-to-consumer business, Galvin said, “We want to make sure the here and now is functioning properly and that we’re moving the ball forward. Elie is thinking two or three steps down the road. He’s thinking about what will happen with the market, how the consumer will want to shop, what’s the message we want to send. The one thing about Elie is, he’s not opposed to change.” He also said he’s learned a lot from Tahari. “I’m able to gain a better understanding of him, the vision and the aesthetic.…I think of the world of Elie as far as what he creates, the vision he has and how he wants to reshape the way the business is con- ducted,” Galvin stated. “He’s not looking to say, ‘What was done the last 10 years?’ Elie is thinking about what he wants to do for the next 10 years. He’s abso- Tahari’s Fifth Avenue store. lutely focused on the future.”
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Spring 2012
Reaching the Modern Man Counting on men’s as a key growth driver. By David Lipke
NOT A SINGLE men’s wear design leaves you can go out with it. We’re doing sweat- Father’s Day encompass about 24 styles. company is contemplating opening a the Elie Tahari design studios without pants that look cool. It’s all about feeling “Our Tahari customer is looking for temporary men’s-only store next year. Elie Tahari giving it a test run first. good but also about looking good.” quality pieces with a modern, updated Men’s generates 10 percent of overall “I try on every piece. I have an aver- Tahari first launched his men’s aesthetic. We see a lot of our female company sales for the Tahari brand. age height, and I don’t think we should sportswear collection in the fall of 2006, customers who know Tahari women’s Besides the core sportswear busi- fit on a runway model,” reasoned the initially as a minor supplement to the buying Tahari men’s,” said Tom Ott, ness, the men’s offerings have expand- hands-on founder and chairman of Elie core women’s business. More recently, senior vice president and general mer- ed to a number of licensed categories. Tahari. “I think we should fit on a regu- the business has grown in importance, chandise manager of men’s and home Current licenses are Peerless Clothing lar guy. I do clothes for a body that is a and the company is aiming to make at Saks Fifth Avenue. “Printed wovens for suits and suit separates; PVH Corp. regular body, that everyone can wear. men’s a key growth driver in the future. and outerwear are our strongest clas- for dress shirts and ties; Collezione And I want to know that there’s a rea- Today, Elie Tahari men’s wear is sifications season after season.” for outerwear; Imperial for under- son for me to buy it. If I don’t need it, wholesaled to about 120 retail ac- This fall, Saks partnered with Elie wear and furnishings — with gloves why are we doing it?” counts. Bloomingdale’s and Saks Fifth Tahari on an exclusive leather capsule and scarves to come next fall — and That real-world approach infuses Avenue are the largest partners, fol- line, helping to fill a need in the luxury Colors in Optics for eyewear, which the entire men’s collection, which em- lowed by Macy’s, Lord & Taylor and a retailer’s leather assortments. will launch in stores next year. phasizes simplicity in silhouette mar- host of independent specialty stores. In “Tahari has historically done very Other men’s license areas that ried to a modern stance. There’s a Europe, the men’s collection is stocked well with great quality leather styles at Tahari sees future potential in include sleek attitude to the brand, but comfort in Galeries Lafayette, Printemps, Saks, so we see this as an opportunity shoes, bags and watches. is always paramount to Tahari. Harrod’s and Harvey Nichols. for growth,” noted Ott, pointing to de- Last month, the company showed its “I would say it’s more on the casual There are six deliveries of men’s signs like a slim suede shirt jacket in men’s collection at the Project trade side than the dressed-up side. We do wear annually, compared with 12 deliv- midnight blue and bottle green, a black show in Las Vegas, a first for the brand. pants for men that are like sweatpants, eries in the larger women’s collection. motorcycle-style shearling jacket and a “It was great exposure to specialty but it’s not a traditional sweatpant. It’s These include spring, Father’s Day, a four-pocket lambskin field jacket. stores and in general for marketing got a narrow leg,” explained Tahari. summer-to-fall transition range, fall, Apart from wholesale, Elie Tahari purposes. Several new accounts were “Sweatpants were for sweating in the holiday and pre-spring. The primary men’s wear is sold at the company’s added in the U.S. and Canada as a re- past. Today, if a sweatpant has a great spring and fall deliveries offer about own freestanding stores, including sult of attending Project,” said Sandy cut, you put something dressy on top and 140 styles, while smaller deliveries like 12 full-price units and 24 outlets. The {Continued on page 16} “Clothing should be quieter than the woman so that her true beauty can shine through.”
- ELIE TAHARI
MACY’S AND BLOOMINGDALE’S CONGRATULATE ELIE TAHARI
ON FOUR DECADES OF KNOWING WHAT WOMEN WANT 16 WWD TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2013
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{Continued from page 14} Wax, president of men’s and special projects at Fall 2010 Elie Tahari. Wax joined the company last November after previously founding and running Tahari outerwear licensee Collezione. Wax sold that company to S. Rothschild, a maker of women’s outerwear, in March 2012.
For fall 2014, the company will launch re- plenishment programs in suits and denim to boost those categories, said Wax. Last year, Tahari updated its in-store shops at Bloomingdale’s 59th Street and the flagship Saks Fifth Avenue in New York. The renova-
tions included new video screens, updated fixtures, backlit displays and furniture, in- cluding an orange Hans Wegner “Papa Bear” chair — a favorite of Tahari’s, who is a collec- tor of midcentury modern furniture — in the Bloomingdale’s shop. Adjacencies for·· Elie Tahari at Bloomingdale’s include Armani Collezione, Ralph Lauren and Hugo Boss. At Saks, adjacencies include Theory, Emporio Armani and Z Zegna. Tahari believes that men’s remains a work in progress but has the potential to become a major building block for the brand. “I think when we get our men’s wear where it needs to be, it will fuel a lot of our growth,” he noted. Tahari would like to amp up the design fac- tor in the men’s collections to bring it up to par with women’s. A fall 2012 look from licensee Peerless. Fall 2013 I see more men open to new ideas in dressing. — ELIE TAHARI
“I think we can do a better job. I think the women’s design has been a lot cooler and younger and trendier than the men’s,” he ac- knowledged. “I think the men’s is going to catch up this year.” Men’s wear was a secondary consideration at the company for much of its history, the de- signer conceded. “We launched at a time when we owned fac- tories in Italy and I had a house ··in Tuscany and men’s was thriving in Italy, obviously,” recalled Tahari. “Really, I did it for myself and what I would like to wear. We didn’t take it as seri- ously as we are taking it now. We were too busy with women’s wear. At the time we started, it was like a toy — we needed some men’s wear for our own stores and we were playing with it. But now, we are looking at it and thinking how to turn it into a big business internationally.” Tahari see a cultural shift in the way men dress, making the category ripe for expansion. “Men are ready to dress in fashion. When I was growing up, 40 years ago when I came to New York, men were not interested,” remem- bered Tahari. “I think now they are interested. Maybe it’s my perception. But I see more men Fall 2011 open to new ideas in dressing.” Celebrities who have recently worn Elie Tahari include Bradley Cooper, Andrew Rannells, Justin Bartha, Darren Criss and Penn Badgley. “People are into their bodies. They go to the gym, exercise and eat healthy. They are getting more educated. Naturally they want to pay more attention to how they look on the out- side,” observed Tahari. “Of course, the inside is more important. But it’s all one thing — you have to pay attention to the inside and the out- side. The world is smarter now.” Moving forward, Tahari is buoyant about the road ahead. “I’m planning to go with the flow and let the light guide me,” said the designer. Of his four decades in business, Tahari said he’s just getting started. “I think it takes 40 years to learn about this industry. I think I just graduated and I’m ready to do it. I’m a slow student — it took me 40 years,” he quipped. “You know, there are [lots of] people in the U.S. who are over 100 years old now. So, I have a chance. In another 40 years, I’ll be in that category.” I I 18 WWD TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2013
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WWDMILESTONES Women’s footwear is made by Highline United; scarves are by Imperial; eyewear by Colors in Optics.
Finishing Touches Expanding into an array of apparel, accessories and home categories is essential for building a lifestyle brand. By Lisa Lockwood
ELIE TAHARI’S licensing program has tional shops with partners, nonapparel begun to percolate. categories become very important. This The company’s three brands — Elie will help fuel our growth both domesti- Tahari, Tahari and T Tahari — have cally and internationally.” developed licensing programs to vari- Top priorities for the company are ous degrees in categories ranging from developing the home business — table- women’s footwear, handbags, hosiery, top and bedding — and forging a jewelry, sunglasses and outerwear to handbag deal for the Elie Tahari men’s underwear, shirts and suits. brand. It already has a handbag “The goal is not only to expand what license for T Tahari and Tahari we do on a wholesale basis. But [li- with Envisage Group. Also high on censed products] will also enhance the the wish list is a fragrance. shopping experience online and in our “That would be one of the biggest stores,” said Bob Galvin, chief execu- opportunities for growth,” said Galvin, “We have a huge men’s initiative hats, gloves and scarves, as well as tive officer of Elie Tahari Ltd. “Today, noting that the marketing and advertis- under way in accessories [belts, small men’s underwear. non-apparel-related items represent 5 ing supporting it, and the great visuals, leather goods, cuff links]. We do suits, For spring, Tahari will launch wom- percent or less of sales. Our goal is to would boost Tahari’s global presence. shirts and ties,” said Galvin. en’s and men’s sunglasses with Colors have it be 20 to 30 percent of all store At present, however, no fragrance deals He also noted that the company in Optics. sales. You need the product categories are imminent. “We’re talking to a number is looking aggressively into kids’ ap- Asked why they haven’t been more to drive that.” of people in the category,” he added. parel and footwear, and is consid- aggressive with licensing over the past Having an expanded footwear offer- Men’s has been a growing cat- ering women’s swimwear, women’s 40 years and are becoming more so ing, for example, will allow Tahari to egory, and the firm has inked deals loungewear and activewear. The firm now, Galvin said it’s important to find expand that business quicker overseas, with Peerless Clothing, PVH Corp., recently signed deals with Imperial the best partners out there, that not he said. “As we’re rolling out interna- Collezione SA and Imperial. for men’s and women’s cold weather only have great quality, but get Tahari’s aesthetic and design and understand the DNA of the brand. LICENSEES PRODUCT LABEL “It’s easy to do a lot of licensing deals. Highline United Women’s footwear Elie Tahari, Tahari, T Tahari Everyone that I pick up the phone and call would love to become part of the S. Rothschild Women’s outerwear Elie Tahari, Tahari, T Tahari Elie Tahari family. We’re just much more K&M Associates Women’s jewelry T Tahari, Tahari selective in terms of who we invite to be part of the family,” said Galvin. “Elie Envisage Group Women’s handbags and small leather goods T Tahari, Tahari loves product and loves having great Peerless Clothing Men’s suits, sports coats, trousers, tuxedos Elie Tahari product that represents him in the mar- Collezione SA Men’s outerwear Elie Tahari ketplace. Whether sunglasses or a belt, anything that has his name attached to it PVH Corp. Men’s dress shirts and ties Elie Tahari has to be Elie Tahari. If his name is out Imperial Women’s scarves Elie Tahari there, it has to be wonderful.” Imperial Women’s cold weather and gloves Elie Tahari, Tahari, T Tahari Galvin said Tahari gives the licens- ees design direction. Imperial Men’s gloves, scarves, underwear and handkerchiefs Elie Tahari “The right category expert is able to Colors in Optics Sunglasses, optical eyewear Elie Tahari, Tahari, T Tahari interpret [Tahari’s aesthetic] into that Mallory & Church Women’s hosiery and socks Elie Tahari product category so it’s on-brand. And {Continued on page 20}
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{Continued from page 18} vice president of Colors in Optics, said She’s very sophisticated, timeless and a lifestyle brand. We design for every then it comes back to us for approval. that Elie Tahari and Tahari sunglasses wants to be of the moment.” occasion where she would need a Nothing goes out without Elie’s OK,” will launch next spring. T Tahari sun- Elie Tahari eyewear and sunglasses coat,” said Ferraro. “It’s very much said Galvin. glasses will launch in spring 2015, as will be all hand-made of European the DNA of Elie Tahari. It has a very Rick Paterno, ceo of Highline well as optical frames for Elie Tahari. acetates and European hinging. They easy-to-understand aesthetic. As his United, the women’s footwear li- “We were always fascinated by will have a discrete logo, reflective line has evolved, we tailor that to censee for all three brands, said the Elie’s exceptional designs and the of the Tahari brand, she said. As for our market. Elie has a very good eye. footwear labels have been doing well. way he interprets fashion. It’s a great design, she said, “They would have a He’ll give us a general feeling, such The collections “take their design fit for us,” said Hutton. “We are a de- modern twist on the retro infusion in as the colors, silhouettes and overall cues from Elie.” eyewear today.” spirit, and we try and complement “He’s very involved. It’s clean, Elie Tahari sunglasses will retail his collection.” sophisticated and modern, and for $150 to $250 and are geared to Elie Tahari outerwear wholesales we work very closely with Elie better department stores and opti- from $120 to $400, depending on the in design,” said Paterno, noting cal shops. T Tahari, aimed at depart- classification. T Tahari wholesales from that Highline’s designer meets with ment stores, will retail approximate- $65 to $150, while Tahari coats go from Tahari a few times each season. ly from $75 to $95, and the Tahari $50 to $135. “We try to keep the same The Elie Tahari label is sold in brand, which is geared to volume- aesthetic across the board. The custom- stores such as Saks Fifth Avenue, driven retailers, sells for around $50. er who loves Elie Tahari should be able Bloomingdale’s and Neiman Jack Mann, ceo of Imperial, said to get it at any level,” she said. Marcus, and the Tahari footwear his company licensed Elie Tahari for She added Tahari has been consis- brand — the largest piece of the women’s accessories including cold- tent for 40 years. business — is geared to stores weather and fashion scarves, hats and “He’s one of the first people to such as Macy’s, Lord & Taylor and gloves, as well as men’s underwear, understand branding and gives the Belk. Paterno said Highline recent- scarves, hats, gloves, handkerchiefs customer what she wants. Elie does ly presented the T Tahari collection and pocket squares. a lot of in-store events and he’s got to Nordstrom. “We think it’s a great company with quite a following. He made a name Paterno said the color and mate- great brand recognition,” said Mann. for himself and delivers consistent, rial direction is coordinated with “It hits the more contemporary, more fashionable and on-trend outer- Tahari’s sportswear collections. modern customer.” wear,” said Ferraro. Historically, the Elie Tahari foot- Mann believes there are numerous Describing the essence of the Elie wear line was “pretty dressy and so- synergies with the ready-to-wear col- Tahari brand and what the team hopes phisticated, but now we’ve expanded lection. He said Tahari designs a lot of their products convey, Galvin summed the casual and weekend collection nuanced colors and shades “and really it up this way: “Elie’s all about femi- with more sneakers, sport casuals wonderful print designs.” He said his ninity. Whatever the product is about, and flats,” he said. own design team works collaboratively it has to exude femininity. It’s not a “It performs well. We just came with Tahari’s team. harsh leather, it’s a soft leather.” off FFANY [the Fashion Footwear Elie Tahari eyewear launches in the spring. Betsy Ferraro, president of better He added that from a design per- Association of New York show], and the women’s outerwear at S. Rothschild spective, Tahari loves architecture and reaction to the collection was outstand- sign house for eyewear, and we’re & Co., said her company makes every fit, and there’s a richness to his product. ing. We’ve had two good shows back to both timeless, sophisticated and use type of outerwear for its Elie Tahari, T “You look at the clothing and the back,” said Paterno. fresh styling of the moment that can Tahari and Tahari collections, includ- way Elie is able to mix materials and Elie Tahari footwear retails from last for years to come.” ing leather, wool, down, fake fur and have things come together that cre- $200 to $350, while T Tahari is in the She described the Elie Tahari puffer coats and jackets. ates a ‘wow’ factor. He’s also known for $120 to $200 range and Tahari footwear woman as someone “who has a sense of “We do all classifications,” she great prints,” Galvin said. “I think ma- goes from $90 to $140. her own creativity, has a great sense of said, from sporty to dressy. “The Elie terial innovation and design direction Rhona Hutton, creative director and style and is diverse in what she likes. Tahari customer isn’t ubercasual. It’s is all about Elie.”
doors in Mexico with eight new shops scheduled to open next year. In Spain, the collection is of- fered in 12 stores and six more will make their debuts in 2014. Developing more concept shops domestically and overseas is another priority. While the sig- T Time nature collection offers more select pieces in- The younger line gets a boost. cluding what Galvin described as “great leather By Rosemary Feitelberg outerwear north of $1,000,” the T Tahari collec- tion is more affordable, but of the same design AGGRESSIVE GROWTH PLANS are in store for the aesthetic and quality. T Tahari collection. Around the globe, dresses and blouses con- The Elie Tahari Co. aims to strengthen the pres- tinue to be bestsellers, he said. Current offer- ence of its secondary line in international markets ings at Nordstrom, for example, include the T while building its U.S. base. Drawing upon the Elie Tahari Asher shirtdress at $138 and the T Tahari Tahari brand’s heritage, T Tahari is meant to offer Sisley zip-front blouse at $108. accessible luxury and understated, chic design to a So shoppers might have a closer tie to the com- broader audience. Launched in spring 2007, T Tahari pany’s founder, Tahari is expected to make more has become a recognizable label in the past six years, public appearances to try to build awareness for and offering affordable price points has been a key the T Tahari collection around the world. A trip to part of its strategy. Blouses retail from $79 to $118, Spain is being planned for next year, and Mexico dresses run from $128 to $158 and outerwear falls be- is also a possibility, as the company continues to tween $200 and $400. grow its business in those countries. “Elie wants to be sure there is always great value in the product,” Galvin said, “because he understands that in this economy, shoppers have all sorts of choices to make.” It generates about 20 percent of the $500 million There is also talk of developing the first T fashion company’s volume. Tahari advertising campaign, though nothing While the domestic market continues to be an has been finalized just yet. area of emphasis, this year and next T Tahari will The T Tahari label is now offered in 200 continue to build its American and overseas busi- doors and that figure is expected to increase in A fall style from T Tahari at Bloomingdale’s. nesses by broadening its range of products and up- the next 12 months. The introduction of a foot- grading the collection. Among the initiatives are wear collection this fall through a licensing deal of a modern, younger sister. That said, Galvin was plans to renovate the 700-square-foot T Tahari con- with Modern Shoe is one of the ways the company quick to note that both lines are treated with the cept shop in Bloomingdale’s flagship, according to plans to build the business. The way things stand, same degree of attention in care and design develop- Bob Galvin, chief executive officer of Elie Tahari. U.S. sales account for 80 percent of all T Tahari sales, ment. There is also a good deal of crossover shopping The concept shop at Lord & Taylor will also get an with international comprising the remaining 20 per- among consumers who buy merchandise from both upgrade and it will be expanded to 1,200 square feet. cent, Galvin said. labels and mix them, he said. As of late August, the average T Tahari in-store shop Launched last year, T Tahari handbags are cur- Further emphasizing the international develop- was about 200 square feet. rently sold via Nordstrom and Belk. A large T Tahari ment of the collection, executives are working on Overseas, T Tahari is currently sold in more than dome satchel, which retails for $238, is among the of- plans to possibly show T Tahari in Milan, which could 50 doors, and executives are keen to foster growth ferings. Elie Tahari sunglasses will launch this spring come next year. And, to make sure product gets in through existing partners in Europe and Asia. As and T Tahari shades will launch in fall 2015. hands around the world, the company is also focused things are, the label’s two largest accounts are in Connected as the two collections are, executives on executing its shipping through its distribution cen- Mexico and Spain. Shoppers can find T Tahari in 22 at the company think of the T Tahari label as more ters in New Jersey, Europe, Canada and Hong Kong. VISION IS THE ART OF SEEING ALL THAT IS POSSIBLE.
WE SALUTE ELIE TAHARI FOR 40 STYLISH YEARS. 22 WWD TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2013
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WWDMILESTONES Levine’s Lessons A basic truth guides the Tahari ASL business. By Arthur Friedman
ARTHUR S. LEVINE has run multimil- lion-dollar companies for many years in the often-complicated fashion world, Arthur S. Levine but has developed a simple philosophy for success. “The only thing that matters is the product,” Levine said in a phone in- terview, when asked about the key lessons learned in his 50-year career. “And there’s no substitute for quality and look.” As a partner and chief executive officer of Tahari ASL, which includes the Tahari Arthur S. Levine brand of suits and dresses, as well as a private- label division, Levine’s legacy on Seventh Avenue is deep, established as the longtime ceo and chairman of Kasper ASL and principal and ceo of Anne Klein. Levine, who was also owner and ceo of the fa- bled Bobbie Brooks company in the late Sixties and early Seventies, recalled that while the partnership with Elie Tahari was a long time in for- mation, it hit a formidable ob- stacle out of the starting gate. That’s because Levine and Tahari started the Tahari ASL business on Sept. 10, 2001, the day be- fore the Sept. 11 attacks, so it was a pre- carious time to begin a new endeavor. “Elie really pushed me on, he was
my biggest cheerleader,” Levine said. THOMAS IANNACCONE PHOTO BY “It has turned out to be a very success- ful venture and an exciting 12 years.” Levine also runs the Catherine days at Bobbie Brooks, Sasson, Anne ties, in the early days of importing. It Levine said he has known Tahari for Malandrino business. Last month, Klein, Sassco and Kasper, Levine said was at that time that Levine had sold nearly the entire 40 years he has been Bluestar Alliance acquired a major- he has seen the industry evolve be- 50 percent of Bobbie Brooks to Chinese in business. ity stake in the Catherine Malandrino yond his imagination. manufacturing executive Tomio Taki. “He was making better suits, and I brand and intellectual property as- “It’s a completely a different world “Tomio Taki brought me to China, was knocking him off all through those sets from Tahari ASL and established today,” he said. “In the old days, if you and I started operating out of there,” he years,” he said. “As a design talent, he a joint venture that is majority-owned didn’t sell Macy’s, you could sell to said. “By 1980, we were totally operat- certainly inspired me. I copied almost by Bluestar, in partnership with Tahari Gimbels or Ohrbach’s. There were so ing out of Hong Kong and Taiwan, and everything he made. We used to meet ASL. Levine said Tahari ASL retained many opportunities.” in the Nineties I transitioned to China. for lunch once a year, never knowing about 25 percent ownership. Today, following decades of re- In 1995, we opened our own factory in what was going to happen to Kasper Tahari and Levine had invested and tail consolidations, the industry has China while I was at Kasper and it was would happen, with Leslie Fay going formed a partnership with Malandrino changed drastically, especially at the very successful. When Elie and I opened into bankruptcy.” in 2011. department store level, he noted, in 2001, at the same time we opened a In 1992, Kasper ASL was a division “I was looking for a sportswear which has dwindled down to a precious factory in [Shenzhen] China. We had 200 of the Leslie Fay Cos., which was rocked brand for a long time,” he said. “Elie few key operators. people working for us. Today, we have by an accounting scandal in which two always admired Catherine as a design- “If anybody would have told me about 700 people. It’s a very good factory. of its executives fraudulently reported er, and I felt the same way.” seven or eight years ago that Amazon Suits are a very difficult product to make. quarterly figures. In April 1993, Leslie He noted that the Malandrino com- would be one of our biggest accounts, There has to be a mentality in the factory Fay was forced to declare bankruptcy, pany had fallen into a difficult finan- I would have had them put away,” he to work with very high standards.” where it remained for five tumultuous cial condition, particularly with large said. “It’s been one hell of a trip from About 15 to 20 percent of the line is years and eventually folded. investments in its own stores in places the world after World War II to the one made in that factory. Levine noted that Levine said after that, “We started like Las Vegas and Los Angeles that we’re in today in the fashion business. about 10 years ago, he started manufac- talking about ‘What if?’ Kasper was had not done well. You’ve got to be better today than you turing in Vietnam, and “we do quite a sold to Jones, and then I went to Elie “We opened eight months ago for were back then. In those days, if you bit there now.” and said, ‘I’m ready.’ From that point, fall, and it’s been fantastic,” Levine were mediocre, there was always some- Levine said the Catherine it took less than two weeks. It’s been a said. “Now, we’re really going to blast one to sell to. Today, you’re either with Malandrino line does some manufac- great run.” that open.” it or you’re not.” turing in New York. He agreed with the The executive noted the Tahari ASL He said Blue Star’s expertise in li- One of the biggest stories, Levine trend that much of the production that suit and dress business, which had ini- censing and brand extension “will take said, is the dress sector. He said in has expanded or come back to the U.S. tial projections of $75 million in annual the company sky high.” Eighties and Nineties, the dress business is in the knit sector, which has become sales, went to “$175 million to $200 mil- Malandrino said at the time of the had a steady decline, with many compa- more automated, and the ability to do lion in a few years.” Bluestar investment that her diffusion nies going out of business and stores de- smaller production runs. “Elie has always had the confidence line, which was launched for spring voting less space to the category. He said his business and the Tahari that I would make a product worthy of 2013, has wholesale volume of between “When it did reemerge [which he business have done well in the last five having the Tahari name on the label,” $15 million and $20 million, while the pinpointed to be in 2003], it did so with years since the economic downturn. he said. “Honestly, after Kasper, I designer collection generates wholesale young women who were brought up in a “In the end, it boils down to prod- never thought it could happen again.” volume of around $25 million and is sold world without dresses,” he said. “So it uct,” he said. “If you have product The business started with suits, and in such stores as Bergdorf Goodman, became something new they had never that’s retailing well, you’re going to ex- then Levine began to do private label, Saks Fifth Avenue, Neiman Marcus and worn. It reemerged out of the sports- ceed the economy.” mostly for Dillard’s, which he said Bloomingdale’s, as well as on her Web wear market. I started to see in the Looking ahead, Levine said the dress- “has developed into a huge business.” site, catherinemalandrino.com, and sportswear collections that among their es and suited separates have been strong The Tahari ASL collection has also through international accounts. bestsellers were a group of dresses.” and should continue to grow. Noting that moved into what he calls “suited sepa- From his first job in the shipping Levine noted that for the first part the high-end Elie Tahari brand has a rates, which is very good right now,” department in the Kelley Arden divi- of his career, he manufactured locally, chain of its own stores, Levine said, he said, “and our dress business has sion of Stacy Ames Co., where he even- like everybody else. Then he started to “We’re definitely thinking about” open- been fantastic.” tually became sales manager, to his manufacture in Asia in the mid-Seven- ing Tarahi ASL stores down the road. ELIE TAHARI WE’RE CRAZY ABOUT YOU!
From tube tops to tailored suits—your contributions to the industry always have a modern sophistication with a youthful twist. We can’t wait to see what you do next.
Happy 40th Anniversary! 24 WWD TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2013
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WWDMILESTONES BY MAYTE ALLENDE MAYTE BY MAKEUP BY DAVID STELLA FOR ELLIS FAAS COSMETICS; PHOTO ASSISTANT: LAUREN POGGI; FASHION ASSISTANT: CATHERINE BROADBENT; STYLED BROADBENT; CATHERINE ASSISTANT: LAUREN POGGI; FASHION COSMETICS; PHOTO ASSISTANT: STELLA DAVID FOR ELLIS FAAS MAKEUP BY
SophisticatedPale and sexy, but still with structure Fire — the Elie Tahari spring collection, here through page 32, offers plenty of casual, chic and dressy options. PHOTOS BY GEORGE CHINSEE; MODELS: DARIA P/WILHELMINA AND AURELIA/FORD MODELS; HAIR BY JEANIE SYFU USING TRESEMMÉ/ARTMIX BEAUTY; MODELS; HAIR JEANIE SYFU USING TRESEMMÉ/ARTMIX GEORGE CHINSEE; MODELS: DARIA P/WILHELMINA AND AURELIA/FORD BY PHOTOS BY WE SALUTE
ELIE TAHARI
FOR 40 YEARS OF MODERN SOPHISTICATION AND STYLE
WE ARE PROUD TO BE A PART OF YOUR TEAM
PEERLESS CLOTHING 26 WWD TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2013
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WWDMILESTONES A dress from the 40th-anniversary collection, Edition 1974. Congratulations on making “The American Dream Come True” 28 WWD TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2013
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WWDMILESTONES With great admiration and respect,
your friends at S. Rothschild & Co., Inc. honor you and the Elie Tahari brand on its
40th anniversary.
Your innovation, creativity, and humility
truly deserve Elie Tahari Day.
Best wishes and continued success.
Sincerely,
Mark Friedman
President of S. Rothschild & Co., Inc.
&
Betsy Ferraro
President of Better Women’s 30 WWD TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2013
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WWDMILESTONES You don’t
a day over 29 Congratulations on ELIE TAHARI’s 40th.
ELIE TAHARI JACKET, $498; PANTS, $298 CALL 212.753.4000, VISIT SAKS.COM, DOWNLOAD THE SAKS APP OR FIND US ON FACEBOOK, TWITTER AND SAKSPOV.COM GET THE SAKSFIRST CARD: GIFT CARDS • EXCLUSIVE ACCESS • FREE SHIPPING 32 WWD TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2013
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WWDMILESTONES
A dress from the 40th- anniversary collection, Edition 1974. The Rubin Group is honored to be a part of Elie Tahari’s 40th Anniversary celebration.
It is a privilege to be partnered with Elie and share his ongoing vision.
Phone number: 212-791-4300 | Address: 111 John Street, Suite 1900, New York, NY 10038 | Email: [email protected] 34 WWD TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2013
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WWDMILESTONES
Fall 1996 Spring 1997
A ROMP THROUGH WOMEN’S CAREERWEAR IN THE SEVENTIES, EIGHTIES AND BEYOND WOULDN’T BE COMPLETE Fall 1989 WITHOUT BIG SHOULDERS, BUT TAHARI EVOLVED WITH THE DECADES TO INCLUDE MUCH MORE. HERE AND ON PAGE 36, A LOOK AT HIS FASHIONS THROUGH THE REARVIEW MIRROR. A Sartorial Journey
Fall 2011 Fall 1983 Fall 1996 Resort 2002 Fall 1999 CONGRATULATIONS
TH
FROM YOUR PARTNERS ARTHUR S. LEVINE & LES SCHREIBER AT ASL
CBIZ AND MAYER HOFFMAN McCANN P.C. CONGRATULATE ELIE TAHARI on 40 great years!
ACCOUNTING & TAX • AUDIT* • CORPORATE RECOVERY • PRIVATE CLIENT SERVICES • BUSINESS CONSULTING
1065 Avenue of the Americas | New York, NY 10018 | 212.790.5700 | www.cbiz.com/cbizmhm-newyork @CBIZNewYork *Mayer Hoffman McCann P.C. is an independent CPA firm providing audit, review and attest services, and works closely with CBIZ, a business consulting, tax and financial services provider. © Copyright 2013. CBIZ, Inc. and Mayer Hoffman McCann P.C. All rights reserved. 36 WWD TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2013
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WWDMILESTONES
Resort 1995 Spring 1985
Fall 1984 Resort 2012 Fall 1983 WOULD LIKE TO CONGRATULATE
ON 40 YEARS OF BRINGING US THE BEST IN MODERN LUXURY
Milestones. We measure progress by them.
That’s why it gives us great pleasure to congratulate Elie Tahari on making a positive impact in women’s fashion for 40 years.
HSBC has been helping business visionaries like Elie Tahari achieve success since 1865. With a global network of Commercial Banking experts connected in over 60 countries, find out how HSBC can help your business achieve success here and around the world.
Find out more at us.hsbc.com/business
Douglas Taliaferro Senior Vice President Regional Commercial Executive 212 525-5799 [email protected]
Matilde Reyes Senior Vice President Relationship Manager/Team Leader 212 525-4303 [email protected]
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HSBC Bank USA, N.A. Member FDIC, Equal Credit Opportunity Lender. ©2012 HSBC Bank USA, N.A 04265 196267 38 WWD TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2013
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WWDMILESTONES A dress designed by a “Project Runway All Stars” contestant was sold to benefit Helping Hands Save the Garment Center. Tahari gives back. By Rosemary Feitelberg
PHILANTHROPY HAS remained a constant in the York, Tahari said sometimes people need to be re- 40 years Elie Tahari has spent building his company. minded that their own interests should not always As part of the events marking his four decades come first. “Most people tend to think, ‘What will I in fashion, the designer revealed last Wednesday get out of it? What’s in it for me?’” he said. — which New York City Mayor Michael Bloomberg Before relocating to New York in his 20s, the de- Q Last year, the Worldwide Orphans Foundation hon- deemed “Elie Tahari Day” — two chari- signer spent his early years in an Israeli ored Tahari at its annual gala for overcoming hard- table initiatives, including his plans to orphanage. Once he got rolling profession- ship in his early life and going on to achieve success. donate proceeds from a dress designed ally, Tahari maintained his philanthropic Q In 2011, Tahari designed the limited-edition by “Project Runway All Stars” designer ways. “Whether you give money or advice, T-shirt that Jennifer Hudson modeled in Saks Fifth Anthony Ryan Auld and sold in Tahari that’s not enough. What we have to do is Avenue’s Key to the Cure initiative. His input helped stores to Save the Garment Center. bring attention to all the charities,” he said. to generate $593,000 sales of the shirt, which in turn In addition, Tahari created a capsule “I am starting with myself — with my fam- was donated to the EIF Women’s Cancer Research collection of updated signature looks that ily and my company.” Fund. The charity benefits more than 50 programs is being billed as “Elie Tahari Edition And in recent years Tahari repeatedly that seek new detection methods, better treatments 1974” and will be shown during his spring has done just that. As a guest judge on and potential cures for various women’s cancers. presentation today. The tube top, jump- “Project Runway All Stars,” the designer Q Also in 2011, Tahari teamed with actress Emmy suit, an updated power suit, tuxedo and welcomed contestants to his design studio Rossum to create the Emmy bag, a handbag that was signature leather pieces will be sold in and allowed them to use fabrics from his sold in four styles in Elie Tahari Collection stores, as Elie Tahari boutiques and wholesale archives. Their task was to create a dress well as Bloomingdale’s, Saks and Neiman Marcus. All partners worldwide in the spring. A por- inspired by the Elie Tahari collection, proceeds were directed to Safe Horizon, an organiza- tion of the proceeds from sales of this col- and the winning designs were sold in Elie tion that annually helps more than 250,000 children lection will be donated to charity. Tahari stores as well as through the compa- and adults who are impacted by crime and abuse. During an interview last month, ny’s Web site. The project raised more than Q In efforts to help emerging designers, Tahari started Tahari spoke at length about the need $32,000 in sales, with all proceeds benefit- a partnership with the Council of Fashion Designers for all people to help each other for the Emmy Rossum with the ing the Save the Garment Center initiative. of America in 2010 to promote select member jewelry greater good of society. Emmy Bag, 2011. Among his other endeavors and awards: designers by selling their wares in his East Hampton, “We need to help planet Earth and Q For three years from 2009 to 2012, the N.Y., store on a three-week rotation. Tahari partici- provide help to all of us,” he said. “The biggest way designer sponsored the Winter Antiques Show, which pated in the program for two consecutive years. we can do that is to change our consciousness. It’s supports the East Side House. That group serves Q In 2008, Tahari partnered with artist Kenny Scharf not about what you give, but the degree of conscious- 8,000 people in the South Bronx and in surround- to create a limited-edition collection that included a ness that you give to a situation.” ing communities to help them improve their lives Kenny Scharf surfboard. A portion of the proceeds Having studied at The Kabbalah Centre New through education. were donated to God’s Love We Deliver. Congratulations to Elie Tahari on 40 years of creativity, beauty and genius, and for making the world a more stylish place for all.
AUSTIN CENTURY CITY CHARLOTTE CHICAGO HOUSTON IRVING LOS ANGELES NEW YORK ORANGE COUNTY SAN FRANCISCO BAY AREA SHANGHAI WASHINGTON, DC
LONDON: KATTEN MUCHIN ROSENMAN UK LLP CONGRATULATIONS TO ELIE TAHARI ON 40 INCREDIBLE YEARS
WISHING YOU CONTINUED PROSPERITY & SUCCESS FOR MANY YEARS TO COME
YOUR FRIENDS AT TRENDY FASHION MANUFACTURING COMPANY LIMITED
www.trendy.com.hk