“All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!” TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET Go further with Lonely Planet 1 Book your travels 2 Download PAGE PLAN YOUR PLANNING TOOL KIT Photos, itineraries, lists and suggestions Find a fl ight our apps 2 Our travel apps give you offl ine maps Find the right fl ight through our YOUR TRIP to help you put together your perfect trip and GPS tracking so you can navigate online booking service. without roaming charges. Download the free Lonely Planet Travel Guides Welcome to Reserve a room app to get started. Visit the Lonely Planet website to book the Netherlands ...... 2 author-reviewed and recommended Welcome to accommodation for any price range. Map ...... 4 the Netherlands 10 Top Experiences ...... 6 Book activities Discover and book amazing experiences Need to Know ...... 12 AMSTERDAM FREE online for destinations around the globe. TRAVEL APP What’s New ...... 14

If You Like ...... 15 Art & Icons Big in Size & Spirit lonelyplanet.com/destinations lonelyplanet.com/appslonelypelypplanet.com/ap In the world of art the Netherlands has The Dutch themselves seem oversized (ac- given us Rembrandt and Van Gogh. Sure, tually they are statistically the tallest na- 12 there’s also Frans Hals, Hieronymus Bosch tionality on the planet.) Gregariousness, and Piet Mondrian – but when you’ve got thrift, good sense and wry humour are the À rst two, why mention the rest? (OK all national traits, as is no-holds-barred that Vermeer guy, he’s big…). Then there honesty. This is not the country for the Month by Month ...... 18 Need to are icons: classic windmills, the ultimate neurotic to ask: ‘Do you think I look fat green machines that are back in vogue a in this?’ (Not that this can be much of a century after the Dutch used these twirl- worry in the best place to ride a bike on Know ing beasties to pump the country dry. the planet.) Clogs? Renewable. AՖ ordable. Floatable (if the dykes break). Tulips? The Dutch Essential Amsterdam Currency Language have made a fortune from little bulbs that For Amsterdam – the entire city is also Itineraries ...... 21 » Euro go in (€) the ground, then» Dutch burst and English forth with a Dutch icon – current upheavals will beauty that is universally loved. merely create more ripples in a city used to waves of change. Misunderstood by 3 Talk to locals Cycling in the When to Go Your Daily 01-welcome-to-net5.indd 2 Budget 1/02/2013 10:11:53 AM Budget less than With just a few words in the local language you can

Texel €100 GO Apr–Oct # » Dorm bed €22-€35, Netherlands ...... 24 private room under make a real connection when you travel. €60 » Supermarkets and lunchtime specials for Our superb range of phrasebooks and language Amsterdam # food €15 GO Year-round Deventer # GO Apr–Oct » Free outdoor Travel with Children ...... 32 exploration apps is guaranteed to get you talking, no matter Rotterdam # Midrange What’s For this new edition of GO Mar–Nov Netherlands, our auth €100– €200 where you’re going. hunted down the fresh » Double room €100 Regions at a Glance ...... 35 New transformed, the hot a » Good dinner in Warm to hot summers, mild winters casual restaurant €30 Warm to hot summers, cold winters Maastricht happening. These are # GO Year-round » Museums and trains our favourites. For up €20 Top end more High Season Shoulder Low Season than minute recommendati (Jun-Aug) Season (Apr & (Nov-Mar) lonelyplanet.com/neth » Everything is open. May, Sep & Oct) » Many sights €200 » Most sights open. outside of major shop.lonelyplanet.com/phrasebooks » The odds of balmy » Luxurious hotel weather to enjoy a » Few crowds. cities closed. double room €160 cafe or a countryside » Prices moderate, » It may just be you » Dinner in top bike ride are best – only book popular and a masterpiece at restaurant with drinks but not assured. places in Amsterdam a famous museum. €60 Rijksmuseum, Amsterdam Museum Broeker Veilin » Crowds fill the » Weather mixes the » Weather cold and » First-class trains, After a 10- year renovation, the na- famous museums. good with wet and or wet, biking is only guided tours €40 Langedijk » Prices peak, book cold. Bring warm for the hardy. 1 tion’s premier art trove reopened in its A great example of the ahead. clothes for outdoors. » Deals abound. entirety in 2013, splashing Rembrandts, 7 and idiosyncratic mus Vermeers and 7500 other masterpieces land: new multimedia disp over 1.5km of galleries. See p65 . life a region of 15,000 vege

were farmed by boat. See04-need-to-know-net5.indd p 12 24/01/2013 2:10:17 PM Stedelijk Museum, Amsterdam Amsterdam’s modern art museum Oudeschild, Texel 2 À nally popped the top on ‘the Bath- This À shing port is a g 4 Check out our full range of guides tub’, its new wing that nearly doubles the 8 get a boat tour, visit th space for Monets, Mondrians, glassworks, museum or feast on smoke posters and textiles. See p 66 . getting a real centre on the TravellingTravelling somewheresomewheomewheere else?else? StayingStayyingyin longerlonger in a particularparticula place? Check out our full range of See p 129 . EYE Film Institute, Amsterdam guides,guides, wriwrittentten and researchedresearched byby expertexpert authors to givee you an amazing travelt experience. 3 It’s ready for its closeup: the Neth- Fyra

PAGE GET MORE FROM YOUR TRIP UNDERSTAND Learn about the big picture, so you CITYY & COUNTRYCOOUNNTRY DISCOVERDISCOVER POCKETPOCKET EBOOKS 251 05-whats-new-net5.indd 14 8/02/2013 12:32:47 PM TheTh freedom f ddd you need tot Full-colourFll l iimages Perfect for The same great content THE NETHERLANDS can make sense of what you see plan the perfect trip. and top itineraries. a quick visit. with added interactivity. shop.lonelyplanet.com shop.lonelyplanet.com/ebooks The Netherlands Today ... 252 History ...... 254 The Dutch Way of Life .... 265 The Netherlands Get inspired to travel Today 5 The award-winning Lonely Planet Traveller is the most exciting Dutch Art ...... 270 Among the qualities the Netherlands is best known is its famous tol- erance. However this idea of ‘You don’t bother me and I won’t bother you’ seemed under threat recently. Instead of a broad coalition govern- magazine for people who want to see more of the world. ment based near the centre of the political spectrum, the Dutch in 2010 shifted right. The coalition government formed that year included Geert Go online to fi nd out more and see the latest subscription off er. Architecture ...... 277 Wilders, leader of the Party for Freedom, a far-right movement with a History tough stance on foreigners living in – or immigrating – to the Nether- lands. Facts While the Netherlands seems like a rather placid place now, you’d ne During the next two years the government under prime minister Mark ation: 16.7 guess the high drama of its history. It’s like going into a cinema an h Rutte made a number of proposals that were a sharp break from previ The Dutch Landscape ... 282 ous Dutch policies. They weakened environmental regulations, slashed after the last show: other than a few popcorn boxes laying on the flo 41,526 arts and culture funding and even passed what was thought to e a near there’s little evidence of the spectacles that played out just recently. death sentence for the country’s coffeeshops (where pot is sold legally). Greed, lust and war are prominent in the Dutch story, with dose n tulip The former y e rock Dutch commitment to the Euro ean Union was 0 sq km action that include pirates and high seas adventure. It’s the story of la t Dutch Cuisine ...... 287 much invaded, whether by armies on land or water from the sea. At lonelyplanet.com/magazine highs it has produced astonishing art matched only by wretched exce Y et through it all, a society has emerged that has a core belief in man rights, tolerance and perhaps most surprising given the vicissitu of its existence, consensus. Invaders STAY IN TOUCH The first invaders to take note of the locals in today’s Netherlands w the Romans, who, under Julius Caesar, conquered a wide region alo the Rijn Rhine) and its tributaries by 59 BC. Celtic and Germanic tri lonelyplanet.com/contact i iti ll b d t C ’ l d Ut ht b i t AUSTRALIA Locked Bag 1, Footscray, Victoria 3011 twitter.com/ %03 8379 8000, fax 03 8379 8111 lonelyplanet ISBN 978-1-74179-895-1 99525 Paper in this book is certified USA 150 Linden Street, Oakland, CA 94607 facebook.com/ against the Forest Stewardship %510 250 6400, toll free 800 275 8555, fax 510 893 8572 lonelyplanet Council™ standards. FSC™ promotes 21-netherlands-today-net5.indd 252 24/01/2013 2:13:19 PM environmentally responsible, socially beneficial and economically viable UK Media Centre, 201 Wood Lane, London W12 7TQ lonelyplanet.com/ ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 9 781741 798951 management of the world’s forests. %020 8433 1333, fax 020 8702 0112 newsletter

22-history-net5.indd 254 24/01/2013 2:14:15 PM netherlands-5-cover.indd 2 8/02/2013 12:41:11 PM PAGE ON THE YOUR COMPLETE DESTINATION GUIDE 38 In-depth reviews, detailed listings ROAD and insider tips

Northeast Friesland Netherlands (Fryslân) p207 p193

Haarlem & North Holland p101 #_ Amsterdam Central p40 Netherlands Utrecht p219 Rotterdam p135 & South Holland p146 Maastricht & Southeastern Netherlands p236

PAGE SURVIVAL VITAL PRACTICAL INFORMATION TO 295 GUIDE HELP YOU HAVE A SMOOTH TRIP

WANT MORE? Directory A-Z ...... 296 For in-depth language information and handy phrases, check out Lonely Planet’s Dutch Phrasebook. You’ll À nd it at shop .lonelyplanet.com, or you can Transport ...... 303 buy Lonely Planet’s iPhone phrasebooks at the Apple App Store. Language ...... 310 Index ...... 318 Languagelanguage Dutch has around 20 million speakers world- How are you? wide. As a member of the Germanic language Hoe gaat het hoo khaat huht family, Dutch has many similarities with met u/jou? (pol/inf) met ew/yaw English. The pronunciation of Dutch is fairly Fine. And you? straightforward. It distinguishes between Goed. khoot Map Legend ...... 327 En met u/jou? (pol/inf) en met ew/yaw long and short vowels, which can aՖ ect the meaning of words, for example, man (man) What’s your name? and maan (moon). Also note that aw is pro- Hoe heet u/je? (pol/inf) hoo heyt ew/yuh nounced as in ‘law’, eu as the ‘u’ in ‘nurse’, ew as the ‘ee’ in ‘see’ (with rounded lips), oh as My name is … the ‘o’ in ‘note’, öy as the ‘er y’ (without the Ik heet … ik heyt … ‘r’) in ‘her year’, and uh as in ‘ago’. Do you speak English? The consonants are pretty simple to Spreekt u Engels? spreykt ew eng·uhls pronounce too. Note that kh is a throaty sound, similar to the ‘ch’ in the Scottish loch, I don’t understand. r is trilled and zh is pronounced as the ‘s’ in Ik begrijp het niet. ik buh·khreyp huht neet ‘pleasure’. This said, if you read our coloured pronunciation guides as if they were English, ’ll b d t d j t À Th t d ACCOMMODATION

31-language-net5.indd 309 24/01/2013 2:22:59 PM THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Ryan Ver Berkmoes, Karla Zimmerman

000-title-page-net5.indd0-title-page-net5.indd 1 88/02/2013/02/2013 1:14:441:14:44 PMPM › A7 E22 Bourtange Emmen 7ºE A1 Delfzijl

E233 erdiep Hengelo Roodeschool Almelo

Winschot Eemskanaal A37 A30 Uithuizen Assen Groningen DRENTHE E232 A28 A28 OVERIJSSEL A1 Top Experiences Top N355 E232 Lauwersoog GRONINGEN

Drachten

IJssel Margrietkanaal Zwolle National Park Schiermonnikoog A32 Dokkum A7 A50 E22 6ºE Heerenveen Kampen Holwerd Giethoorn A28 Weerribben National Park A6 E232 Schiermonnikoog Sneek Schokland A31 Hogebeintum FLEVOLAND E22 Franeker Urk Leeuwarden A6 A7 Ameland Lelystad FRIESLAND Oostvaardersplassen Nature Reserve Stavoren Harlingen

Workum I J s s e l m e e r Enkhuizen Almere Makkum A7 A1 Naarden Hindeloopen E22 Volendam Terschelling Medemblik

Edam 5ºE e e z n e d d a W Monnickendam Muiden A7 Hoorn E22 AMSTERDAM NOORD A10 Den Helder HOLLAND Vlieland A8 A4 A9 Purmerend Amstelveen Texel Aalsmeer Alkmaar Velsen IJmuiden Haarlem Noordzeekanaal National Park Kennemerland Ndk

4ºE Texel Food, dunes and fun (p123) S E A N O R T H Amsterdam World-famous canals good for exploring (p40) The Netherlands The

53ºN ›

002-destination-map-net5.indd2-destination-map-net5.indd 4 88/02/2013/02/2013 10:57:5210:57:52 AMAM A4 Naarden A30 A1 002-destination-map-net5.indd 5

2 Aalsmeer - A1 A1 Hengelo d Noordwijk aan Zee A35 e A44 Apeldoorn Deventer s Katwijk aan Zee E35 Hilversum A1 t Enschede i n LeidenA2 A27 E30

a Amersfoort naal t i o Den Haag Twenteka Delft E19 UTRECHT A30 Hoge Veluwe Zutphen n Alphen Utrecht - (The Hague) E30 National Park

m The perfect little A12 a/d Rijn Zeist A50 National Park a canal town (p163) A12 A12 p E30 Nieuwegein A348 De Veluwezoon - Gouda VeenendaalE232Ede n Monster e E25 Doorn t 52ºN A13 GELDERLAND 5 Delft Oudewater Amerongen A12 . Hoek van Holland A18 i Oosterbeek n A20 E35 A325 ArnhemE35 d Lek d A2

A15 ROTTERDAM

Waal 5 KinderdijkA15 Gorinchem Hoge Veluwe National Park ZUID A27 Maas HOLLANDA16 Nijmegen Discover masterpieces A29 Dordrecht Zaltbommel A50 E19 E311 of nature and art (p234) A59 Oss A59 Biesbosch Schouwen-A4 National Park A77 Westenschouwen Duiveland A261 A73 A17 Willemstad NOORD Den Bosch Delta Project A2 Zierikzee E312 BRABANT Breda A58 E25 Domburg Noord- A58Veere Beveland Roosendaal Tilburg Walcheren E312 Middelburg A4Goes Bergen A67 op Zoom A67 Helmond E34 Vlissingen Zuid-Beveland EindhovenA2 ZEELAND Rotterdam A city-sized gallery E25 Venlo Zeeuws-Vlaanderen of architecture (p168) LIMBURG

Roermond G E R M A N Y Thorn A76

A79 ELEVATION Maastricht Cafes crowd ancient 500m A2 Sittard 88/02/2013 10:57:54 AM wonders (p237) Julianakanaal / 200m 0

2 0 B E L G I U M / 2

0 below sea level Heerlen 1 3

Kerkrade

1 0 30 km Maastricht

0 0 20 miles Valkenburg : 5 7 : 5 4

A M 21

Itiner- Whether you’ve got six days or 60, these itineraries provide a aries starting point for the trip of a lifetime. Want more inspiration? Head online to lonelyplanet. com/thorntree to chat with other travellers.

IJMEER Waterland

•#

Haarlem •# É #_ É AMSTERDAM Deventer

Keukenhof Gardens •# •# É É

•# É É Leiden •# N O R T H Den Haag •# Utrecht •# É Kröller-Müller S E A (The Hague) •# Museum ÉDelft •# RotterdamÉ

•# Kinderdijk É •#

Delta Project •# É Den É

É É Bosch

•# É Middelburg É WESTERSCHELDE

GERMANY

É

BELGIUM É

•# Maastricht

Three Weeks Southern Sojourn

Start in Amsterdam, stay three days, visit the city’s big museums and relax in Von- delpark. Discover the Jordaan and the Southern Canal Belt, then take a load off in Hoppe, a grand cafe on the Spui. Plunge into the city’s celebrated nightlife. Escape the city by bicycle to enjoy the classic beauty of the Waterland region. Continue on as in the one-week tour to Haarlem, Leiden (and Keukenhof Gardens, in season), Den Haag (The Hague) and Rotterdam, but add a day for Delft and its Vermeer splendour. Take the ferry to see the windmills at Kinderdijk, then head for Middelburg, Zeeland’s prosperous capital, and the nearby Delta Project. Take trains through the Neth- erlands’ southern provinces, stopping for the hidden canals of lovely Den Bosch, before continuing to Maastricht, a city with more panache than most; two days should be enough to sample some great cuisine and meander through the medieval centre. Head north to visit Hanseatic Deventer and then head east to the excellent Kröller-Müller Museum. Polish off your trip in the cosmopolitan yet deeply historic city of Utrecht.

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Ameland •#Schiermonnikoog N O R T H Terschelling •#Nes f# S E A •# f# •# Lauwersoog Oosterend •#Holwerd É Vlieland f# f# •# É É É f# •#

PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN Leeuwarden •# Texel É

•#De Cocksdorp Harlingen Ecomare •# É É WADDENZEE •# Den •# Afsluitdijk Hoorn f# Oudeschild •#

Den Helder •# Hindeloopen É

IJSSELMEER ITINERARIES É É É •# Enkhuizen

•# Alkmaar Houtribdijk

GERMANY É Edam •# •# Zwolle •# Marken •#

#_ Waterland Island Escapes AMSTERDAM É •#Muiden Circumnavigating Naarden•# the IJsselmeer

Two Weeks One to Two Weeks The IJsselmeer Island Escapes

A practical place to start this tour is The necklace of low-lying Wadden Amsterdam; three days will whiz Islands (Texel, Vlieland, Terschelling, by in a blur of museums, parks, ca- Ameland and Schiermonnikoog) is nal tours and nightlife. Head north recognised by Unesco and makes for along the IJsselmeer coast through the Wa- good island-hopping. Some ferry links re- terland region to the tiny fishing village quire advance planning; you might be able of Marken. Cycle the dykes to cute-as-a- to link all five by boat but for most there will button Edam. Stay overnight before reach- be connections via the mainland. From Am- ing Alkmaar early to experience its kitsch sterdam, head to Texel. Bike along the is- but fun cheese market, then wander through land’s western coast from sleepy Den Hoo- Enkhuizen’s enthralling Zuiderzeemu- rn through dark copses to the Ecomare seal seum. and bird refuge. Comb the eastern side of Next, catch a bus to Den Helder, and the island, visiting the superb Maritime & a ferry to Texel. Spend two days (or two Beachcombers Museum in Oudeschild. weeks…) dividing your time between beach From De Cocksdorp at the northern end and bike exploration, then take another fer- of Texel, board the morning ferry to car-free ry to Vlieland to appreciate the wilder side Vlieland to explore its nature and hiking of the Frisian Islands. From Vlieland, get a trails before catching the boat to Terschell- ferry to charming Harlingen, from where ing, Friesland’s main tourist island. Hole up Leeuwarden is only a short train ride away. in peaceful Oosterend and cycle the un- Friesland’s capital is an entertaining place, touched dunes, then hightail it by ferry to as is the nearby chain of coastal towns high- Harlingen, a pretty little port on the Frisian lighted by Hindeloopen on the IJsselmeer. coast, and on to Holwerd, to ferry across Break the train trip at Hanseatic Zwolle to somnolent Ameland. Stay in the whaling and add more stops in Naarden and Mui- port of Nes. Return via the ports of Hol- den, two historical fortress towns. werd and Lauwersoog and back on a ferry to Schiermonnikoog, the smallest of the Frisian Islands and featuring a windswept, evocative national park.

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•# WADDENZEE Groningen

É

•# É Bourtange

Afsluitdijk Borger É •# •#

N O R T H Kamp TRIP YOUR PLAN IJSSELMEER Weerribben-Wieden

S E A National Park Westerbork #÷ É

Houtribdijk É É

•# Zwolle

AMSTERDAM É

Haarlem •# #_ É •# Keukenhof Gardens ITINERARIES •#Deventer

•#Leiden É Den Haag GERMANY •# #÷ (The Hague)

É Hoge Veluwe É National Rotterdam •# Kinderdijk Park

•# É #÷Biesbosch Dordrecht •# National

Park Eastern Experience

É •# É Den Bosch The Lay of the Lowlands Oosterschelde •# Breda

One Week One Week Eastern Experience The Lay of the Lowlands

The Netherlands’ eastern expanse is Begin in Amsterdam. Visit the Van largely ignored by tourists, but there Gogh Museum and the Rijksmuse- is myriad highlights to discover. um and rent a bicycle to explore the Begin your trip in Groningen, a pretty neighbourhood of Jordaan. vibrant city filled with students, bars, cafes On the second day board a canal boat tour and a couple of fine museums. Cycle south- and walk the Red Light District before hit- east to Bourtange, a perfectly preserved ting a brown cafe or coffeeshop. Or both. 17th-century fortified town, before moving Head west to the town of Haarlem – on to Borger and its prehistoric hunebed- stroll the compact old quarter, and view the den, stone arrangements once used as masterpieces at the Frans Hals Museum burial chambers. Cycle through the woods and the stained glass of the Grote Kerk to Kamp Westerbork and encounter its van St Bavo. In tulip season (mid-March moving, horrible heritage. Catch a train to mid-May) witness the unbelievable col- to Zwolle, an unhurried Hanseatic town ours of the Keukenhof Gardens, north of that’s ideal for backstreet meanders. A trip Leiden. Then spend a day among Leiden’s through nearby Weerribben-Wieden Na- old-world splendour. Next, take a day in tional Park should include renting a canoe. Den Haag (The Hague), being sure not to From Zwolle it’s only a short train ride to miss the Mauritshuis collection, with five- Deventer, one of the most appealing small star works from everyone from Vermeer to towns in the Netherlands. Next, explore the Warhol. Hoge Veluwe National Park, a natural oa- In the remaining time take a harbour sis that’s home to a renowned art museum. boat tour in Rotterdam and visit the Mu- Then head for Den Bosch, which has a dy- seum Boijmans van Beuningen and the namite museum dedicated to its namesake Maritiem Museum Rotterdam. The next artist. Breda is your next stop, where you morning, do a walking tour of the city’s can enjoy the city’s cafe-filled centre. Go modern architecture before departing for back to nature at Biesbosch National Park Kinderdijk and its gaggle of Unesco-recog- before finishing up on the lovely old streets nised windmills. and canals of Dordrecht.

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Look out for these icons: Our author’s top A green or No payment recommendation sustainable option required

AMSTERDAM ...... 40

HAARLEM & NORTH HOLLAND ...... 101 NORTH HOLLAND ...... 102 Haarlem ...... 103 Zaanse Schans ...... 109 Waterland Region ...... 109 Monnickendam ...... 110 Marken ...... 111 Volendam ...... 112 Edam ...... 112 Alkmaar ...... 114 Broek op Langedijk ...... 118 Hoorn ...... 118 Enkhuizen ...... 120 Medemblik ...... 122 Den Helder ...... 123 Texel ...... 123 Muiden ...... 130 Het Gooi ...... 130 FLEVOLAND ...... 132 Lelystad ...... 133 Urk ...... 134

UTRECHT ...... 135 UTRECHT CITY ...... 136 AROUND UTRECHT CITY . . 143 Loosdrechtse Plassen . . . . .143 Kasteel de Haar ...... 143 Amersfoort ...... 143 Doorn ...... 145 Amerongen ...... 145 Oudewater ...... 145

112a-OTR-title-net5.indd2a-OTR-title-net5.indd 3388 88/02/2013/02/2013 11:12:0711:12:07 AMAM See the Index for a full list of destinations covered in this book.

On the Road

ROTTERDAM & SOUTH NORTHEAST NOORD BRABANT ...... 245 HOLLAND ...... 146 NETHERLANDS . 207 Den Bosch (‘s-Hertogenbosch) ...... 245 SOUTH HOLLAND ...... 147 GRONINGEN CITY ...... 208 Eindhoven ...... 248 Leiden ...... 147 Around Groningen ...... 215 Efteling ...... 248 Around Leiden ...... 153 Bourtange ...... 216 Breda ...... 249 Den Haag (The Hague) . . . 153 DRENTHE ...... 217 West Noord Brabant . . . . 250 Gouda ...... 161 Assen ...... 217 Delft ...... 163 Kamp Westerbork ...... 218 Rotterdam ...... 168 National Parks ...... 218 Around Rotterdam ...... 181 Orvelte ...... 218 Dordrecht ...... 183 Biesbosch CENTRAL National Park ...... 186 NETHERLANDS . . . . 219 Slot Loevestein ...... 186 OVERIJSSEL ...... 220 ZEELAND ...... 186 Deventer ...... 221 Middelburg ...... 187 Zwolle ...... 224 Around Middelburg ...... 190 Kampen ...... 227 Waterland Neeltje Jans . . . 191 Weerribben-Wieden Schouwen-Duiveland . . . . . 191 National Park ...... 228 Zeeuws-Vlaanderen ...... 192 Northern Overijssel ...... 228 GELDERLAND ...... 229 FRIESLAND Nijmegen ...... 229 (FRYSLÂN) ...... 193 Arnhem ...... 233 LEEUWARDEN Around Arnhem ...... 234 (LJOUWERT) ...... 195 Hoge Veluwe AROUND LEEUWARDEN . . .199 National Park ...... 234 Sneek (Snits) ...... 199 Apeldoorn ...... 235 Harlingen (Harns) ...... 199 Elburg ...... 235 Hindeloopen (Hylpen) ...... 201 MAASTRICHT & FRISIAN ISLANDS ...... 202 SOUTHEASTERN Vlieland ...... 202 NETHERLANDS . . . .236 Terschelling ...... 203 MAASTRICHT ...... 237 Ameland ...... 204 Around Maastricht ...... 244 Schiermonnikoog ...... 205 North Limburg ...... 244

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These symbols will help you fi nd the listings you want: 1 Sights T Tours 6 Drinking Look out for these icons: Beaches Festivals & Events Entertainment r z 3 Our author’s o recommendation 2 Activities 4 Sleeping 7 Shopping No payment Information/ F required C Courses 5 Eating 8 Transport A green or S sustainable option These symbols give you the vital information for each listing: Our authors have nominated % Telephone Numbers W Wi-Fi Access g Bus these places as demonstrating h Opening Hours s Swimming Pool f Ferry a strong commitment to p Parking v Vegetarian Selection m Metro sustainability – for example by supporting local communities n Nonsmoking E English-Language Menu b Subway and producers, operating in an a Air-Conditioning c Family-Friendly t London Tube environmentally friendly way, i Internet Access # Pet-Friendly j Tram or supporting conservation d Train projects. Reviews are organised by author preference.

Map Legend Sights Drinking Routes Geographic Beach Drinking Tollway Hut/Shelter Buddhist Cafe Freeway Lighthouse Castle Primary Lookout Christian Entertainment Secondary Mountain/Volcano Entertainment Hindu Tertiary Oasis Islamic Shopping Lane Park Jewish Shopping Unsealed Road Pass Monument Plaza/Mall Picnic Area Museum/Gallery Information Steps Waterfall Post Office Ruin Tunnel Tourist Information Winery/Vineyard Pedestrian Hydrography River/Creek Zoo Overpass Transport Intermittent River Other Sight Airport Walking Tour Swamp/Mangrove Border Crossing Walking Tour Reef Activities, Courses Bus Detour & Tours Path Canal Cable Car/ Diving/Snorkelling Funicular Water Canoeing/Kayaking Cycling Boundaries Dry/Salt/ International Skiing Ferry Intermittent Lake State/Province Glacier Surfing Monorail Disputed Swimming/Pool Parking Areas Regional/Suburb Walking S-Bahn Beach/Desert Marine Park Windsurfing Taxi Cemetery Cliff (Christian) Other Activity/ Train/Railway Course/Tour Wall Cemetery (Other) Tram Park/Forest Tube Station Sleeping Population Sportsground Sleeping U-Bahn Capital (National) Sight (Building) Camping Underground Capital Train Station (State/Province) Top Sight (Building) Eating Other Transport City/Large Town Eating Town/Village

334-our-writers-net5.indd4-our-writers-net5.indd 327327 88/02/2013/02/2013 12:01:3012:01:30 PMPM OUR STORY A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their fi rst travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offi ces in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS

Ryan Ver Berkmoes Coordinating Author; all chapters except Amsterdam Ryan worked on the fi rst edition of Lonely Planet’s The Netherlands, a country where they pronounce his name better than he can, possibly because his ancestors are lurking about there somewhere. Ryan is thrilled to see it continues to be the same charming, amusing, idiosyncratic place. He travels the world writing about great places to visit. Learn more at ryanverberkmoes.com or on Twitter: @ryanvb. Read more about Ryan at: lonelyplanet.com/members/ryanverberkmoes Karla Zimmerman Amsterdam During her Amsterdam travels, Karla admired art, bicycled crash-free, ate an embarrassing quantity of frites and bent over to take her jenever like a local. She has been visiting Amsterdam since 1989, decades that have seen her trade space cakes for stroopwafels, to a much more pleasant eff ect. She never tires of the city’s bobbing houseboats, cling clinging bike bells and canal houses tilting at impossible angles. Based in Chicago, Karla writes travel features for newspapers, books, maga- zines and websites. She has written several Lonely Planet guidebooks covering the USA, Canada, Caribbean and Europe. Read more about Ryan at: lonelyplanet.com/members/karlazimmerman.

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN 36 005 607 983 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason- 5th edition – May 2013 able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about ISBN 978 1 74179 895 1 the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi- © Lonely Planet 2013 Photographs © as indicated 2013 mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in China All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

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