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FE A T T R Santa Fe N A I A L Santa Fe National Historic Trail / , , , S ® New ,

National Park Service Official Map & Department of the Interior Guide - Large Print Formatted for ADA standards at 11” x 17” print size. The Great were changed forever. Highway Soldiers used the Trail The stirs during the 1840s border imaginations as few disputes between the other historic can. Republic of and For 60 years the Trail Mexico, 1846–1848 one thread in a web Mexican-American War, of international trade and America’s Civil routes. It influenced War, and troops policed economies as far away as conflicts between traders and London. and Indian tribes. With Spanning 900 miles of the traders and military the between freighters tramped a the curious company of (Missouri) and Mexico gold-seekers, emigrants, (Santa Fe), it brought adventurers, mountain together a cultural men, hunters, American mosaic of individuals Indians, guides, packers, who cooperated—and translators, invalids, at times clashed. In the reporters, and Mexican process, the rich and children bound for varied cultures of Great schools in Los Estados Plains Indian peoples Unidos (the United caught in the middle States).

Rev. 02/05/13 Spain jealously protected the borders harnesses; greased wagon wheels; doctored of its colony, prohibiting animals; and hunted. They moved on and international trade. soon after noon, fording streams before Missourians and others visiting Santa that night’s stop because overnight storms Fe told of an isolated provincial capital could turn trickling creeks into torrents. starved for manufactured goods and And stock that was cold in the harness first supplies—a potential gateway to Mexico’s thing in the morning tended to be unruly. At interior markets. In 1821 the Mexican day’s end, crews took care of animals, made people revolted against Spanish rule. With necessary repairs, chose night guards, and independence, they un-locked the gates enjoyed a few hours of well-earned leisure of trade, using the Santa Fe Trail as the and sleep. key. Encouraged by Mexican officials, the Santa Fe trade boomed, strengthening and linking the economies of Missouri and “The Vast Plain Like a Mexico’s northern provinces. The close of Green Ocean” the Civil War in 1865 released America’s industrial energies, and the railroad pushed Westward from Missouri, forests—and then westward, gradually shortening and then —give way to shortgrass replacing the Santa Fe Trail. prairie in Kansas. In Kansas, roughly at the Hundredth Meridian, semi-arid conditions develop. For Trail Life on the Trail travelers, venturing into the unknown Movies and books often romanticize void of the plains could hold the fear of Santa Fe Trail treks as sagas of constant hardship or the promise of adventure. Long peril—violent prairie storms, fights with days traveling through seemingly endless Indians, and thundering buffalo () expanses of tall- and , herds. However, a glimpse of buffalo, , with a few narrow ribbons of trees along antelope (pronghorn), or prairie dogs was the waterways, evoked vivid descriptions. sometimes the only break from the tedium “In , the vast plain heaves and rolls of eight-week journeys. Trail travelers around like a green ocean,” wrote one early mostly experienced dust, mud, gnats and traveler. Another marveled at a mirage in mosquitoes, and heat. Occasional swollen which “horses and the riders upon them streams, wildfires, strong winds, hailstorms, presented a remarkable picture, apparently or could imperil wagon trains. extending into the air . . . 45 to 60 feet high. . . . At the same time I could see beautiful Trail hands scrambled at dawn in noise and clear lakes of water with . . . bulrushes and confusion to round up, sort, and hitch up other vegetation . . . .” Other Trail travelers the animals. The wagons headed out, the dreamed of cures for sickness from the air ringing with whoops and cries of “All’s “purity” of the plains. set!” and soon, “Catch up, catch up!” and “Stretch out!” Stopping at mid-morning, Deceptively empty of human presence as crews unhitched and grazed the teams, the prairie landscape appear, the lands hauled water, gathered wood or buffalo the Trail passed through were the long- chips for fuel, and cooked and ate the day’s held of many American Indian main meal, created from a monotonous peoples. Here were the hunting grounds daily ration of one pound of flour, one of the , Kiowa, southern bands pound or so of sowbelly (bacon), one ounce of and Arapaho, and Plains of coffee, two ounces of sugar, and a pinch , as well as the homelands of the of salt. Beans, dried apples, or buffalo or Osage, Kansas (Kaw), , Ute, other game were occasional treats. Crews and Pueblo. Most early encounters were then repaired their wagons, yokes, and peaceful negotiations centering on access to tribal lands and trade in horses, , and other items that Indians, Mexicans, But the tide turned at , New and coveted. As Trail traffic Mexico, on the Santa Fe Trail, in a decisive increased, so did confrontations—resulting western battle of the Civil War. Union from misunderstandings and conflicting forces secured victory when they torched values—that disrupted traditional American the nearby Confederate supply train. The Indian lifeways and Trail traffic. Mexican Confederates abandoned hope of reaching and American troops provided escorts for Fort Union—and of keeping their foothold wagon trains. Growing numbers of Trail in New Mexico. The Union Army held the travelers and settlers moved west, bringing Southwest and its vital Santa Fe Trail supply the railroad with them. As lands were line. parceled out and buffalo were hunted nearly to extinction, Indian peoples were pushed aside or assigned to reservations. Commerce of the Soldiers and Forts Suspicion and tension between the United The story of the Santa Fe Trail is a story of States and Mexico accelerated in the 1840s, business—international, national, and local. because Americans wanted territorial In 1821 , bankrupt and expansion, Texans raided into New Mexico, facing jail for debts, packed goods to Santa and the United States annexed Texas. The Fe. Capt. Don Pedro Ignacio Gallego and Mexican-American War erupted in 1846. more than 400 troops met Becknell and Gen. Stephen Watts Kearny led his Army of five others from Missouri on November 13 the West down the Santa Fe Trail to take and outside Las Vegas, N. Mex. The Americans hold New Mexico and Upper were welcomed and encouraged to trade. and to protect American traders on the Entrepreneurs and experienced business Trail. He marched unchallenged into Santa people followed—James Webb, Antonio Fe, and, although communities such as Taos José Chávez, Charles Beaubien, David and Mora fought back, American control Waldo, and others. prevailed. The Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo ended the war in 1848. The Santa Fe Trade developed into a complex web of international business, The Santa Fe Trail became the lifeline for social ties, tariffs, and laws. Missouri and protection and communication between New Mexico merchants had connections Missouri and Santa Fe. From a succession with New York, London, and Paris. of military forts such as Mann (1847), Atkinson (1850), Union (1851), Larned Traders exploited social and legal systems (1859), and Lyon (1860), the army tried to to facilitate business. Partnerships, such as control conflicts between American Indians Goldstein, Bean, Peacock & Armijo, formed and Trail travelers. As the military presence and dissolved. David Waldo “converted” to grew, freighting and merchant operations Catholicism—and also became a Mexican burgeoned. In 1858 many of the 1,800 citizen. Dr. Eugene Leitensdorfer, of wagons traveling the Santa Fe Trail carried Missouri, married Soledad Abreu, daughter military supplies. of a former New Mexico . Trader Manuel Alvarez claimed citizenship in In 1862 the Civil War arrived in the West. Spain, the United States, and Mexico. Confederates from Texas pushed up the into New Mexico, After the Mexican-American War, Trail intent on seizing the territory and Fort trade and military freighting boomed. Union, and ultimately the rich Colorado Firms such as Russell, Majors and gold fields. Albuquerque and Santa Fe fell. Waddell, and Otero and Sellar obtained and subcontracted lucrative government 1870s. Some American Indian groups resisted contracts. Others operated mail and encroachment by Euro-Americans on their services. lands and resources. Historical Center [painting], National Geographic society [drawing] Trade created other opportunities. From New York, Manuel Harmony shipped English goods to Independence for [photo caption] After the Mexican-American and Civil wars, freighting over the Santa Fe Trail. New military freighting grew, to support forts built Mexican saloon-owner Doña Gertrudis along the route. This soldier’s letter (right) “La Tules” Barceló invested in trade, and from Fort Larned talks about his health, trader Charles Ilfeld ran mercantile stores. Indians, and how much he wants to get back Wyandotte Chief William Walker leased a to the farm. warehouse in Independence, and his tribe invested in the trade. bought [artwork caption] his freedom from slavery and became a Santa Fe markets became glutted with goods, wealthy maker of trade wagons—and one and traders sought southern markets along of the largest employers in Independence. the Camino Real (Chihuahua Trail). , hotel owners, arrieros (muleteers), lawyers, and many others also [artwork caption] found their places along the Trail. Trade Mexican arrieros pack stock for trading north. flourished. [photo caption] [artwork caption] Jesus Vialpando (far left, shown with is son In 1821 the eastern Trail terminus was Avelino) began working on the Trail at age Franklin, Mo.; by 1832 Independence, Mo.; 13. Colorado Springs Pioneers Museum and by 1845, here at Westport Landing (now Kansas City, Mo.). Missouri Historical Society [photo caption] [train] Kansas State Historical Society [photo caption] Textiles (left) and hardware were traded west; [photo caption] silver and mules were traded east. NPS Santa Fe Trail ruts. Cover photograph by George H. H. [artwork caption] Emily Fisher’s Independence Hotel catered to Trail travelers. [credit] William J. Curtis

[artwork caption] and ox drivers made day-to-day Trail operations work. Mexican arrieros (muleteers) were famous for their abilities. Oxen became favored to pull freight wagons. Public Library Western History Department

[artwork caption] Pittsburgh-made Conestoga wagons hauled two to three tons. Wagons were made in Missouri later.

[photo captions] The Trail crossed prairies and semi-arid lands. Travelers might see fleet antelope (right). Buffalo were driven close to extinction in the Santa Fe Trail 1821 Mexico wins independence from Spain, and Timeline William Becknell’s party from Missouri is 4, 1846 welcomed in Santa Fe. First wagons leave Nauvoo and cross the 1825 River. Sen. Thomas Hart Benton of Missouri arranges for U.S. Government to survey Pre-1540 Trail. American Indians establish trade and travel The whole distance from the settlements routes that later become part of Santa Fe on the Missouri to the Mountains in the Trail. neighborhood of Santa Fe, is a prairie country, with no obstructions to the route. . 1540–1541 . . A good wagon road can . . . be traced out, Francisco Vázquez de Coronado explores upon which a sufficient supply of fuel and from Mexico to (Kansas). water can be procured, at all seasons, except in winter 1601 —Alphonso Wetmore, 1824 Juan de Oñate spends 5 months traveling with wagons and artillery through the 1833–1834 Plains. The Bent brothers, Charles (left) and William, and Cerán St. Vrain build Bent’s 1739 Fort. Paul and Peter Mallet make first French trading venture to Santa Fe from 1836 country. Texas wins independence from Mexico.

The road . . . contemplated will trespass upon 1844 the soil or infringe upon the jurisdiction of Trader chronicles his trips no state whatever. It runs a course and a over the Trail in Commerce of the Prairies. distance to avoid all that; for it begins upon the outside line of the outside State [Missouri] and runs directly toward the setting sun, far 1846 away from all the States. U.S. invades Mexico. —Sen. Thomas Hart Benton, 1825 Far away from my wife and child, and six hundred miles of constant danger in 1792 an uninhabited region was not a pleasant Frenchman Pedro Vial travels from Santa Fe prospect for contemplation. But I laughed to Saint Louis for Spanish government. with the rest, joked about roasting our bacon with buffalo chips, and the enjoyment we 1819 would derive from the company of skeletons Financial panic creates need for hard that would strew our pathway. currency in . Adams- — Hezekiah Brake, 1858 Onís Treaty between U.S. and Spain makes River international boundary. 1848 1987 War ends. United States acquires almost Congress designates Santa Fe National half of Mexico’s lands (including New Historic Trail under the National Trails Mexico) in the Treaty of Guadalupe System Act. Hidalgo. Now the Santa Fe Trail belongs to the keening 1849-1852 wind. It belongs to summer rains and to the fearful of winter. It is owned by the California increases Trail traffic. , the jackrabbit, the rattlesnake . . . . And for a brief interval it is mine, by 1851 adoption, since I choose to stake my claim to a Fort Union is established to help protect tiny fragment of its shining history. Trail commerce. —Marc Simmons, 1986 1861-1865 U.S. Civil War. 1862 battle at Glorieta Pass holds Southwest for the Union. 1869 Trail grows shorter as railroads push westward.

But the rejoicing at home . . . the feasts and the bailes [dances]— not to mention the wine made in their absence and saved for the occasion—was a rich compensation . . . for the hardships that were now in the dead past —José Librado Gurulé, 1867 1878 Railroad reaches Ratón Pass on the Mountain Route. 1880 Railroad reaches Santa Fe; Santa Fe Trail slips into history. 1906 The Daughters of the American Revolution begins erecting Trail markers. 1986 Santa Fe Trail Association forms to help preserve and promote awareness and appreciation of Trail. Visiting the Trail Today Trail sites on federal lands: Bent’s Old Fort National Historic Site Freight wagons no longer cross the prairies, (NPS) 35110 Highway 194 E. but the Trail’s legacy endures as buildings, La Junta, CO 81050-9523 historic sites, landmarks, and original 719-383-5010 wagon-wheel ruts. The , working with the Santa Fe Trail (USDA Association, coordinates efforts to preserve, Forest Service) 242 Hwy. 56 East develop, and enjoy the Trail and provides P.O. Box 300 technical and limited financial help to Trail Elkhart, KS 67950 projects. Private landowners, nonprofit 620-697-4621 groups, and federal, state, and local agencies manage most Trail resources. Comanche National Grassland (USDA Forest Service) 1420 East 3rd St. For information contact: National Trails La Junta, CO 81050 System Office—Santa Fe, National Park 719-384-2181 Service, P.O. Box 728, Santa Fe, NM 87504-0728; 505-988-6888; www.nps. Fort Larned National Historic Site (NPS) gov/safe. Rt. 3, Larned, KS 67550 620-285-6911 For membership and activities information contact: Santa Fe Trail Fort Union National Monument (NPS) Association, Santa Fe Trail Center, RR3, P.O. Box 127 Larned, KS 67550; www.santafetrail.org. , NM 87753 505-425-8025 Private individuals and organizations own much of the Santa Fe Trail. Not all (U.S. Army Corps sites are open for public use; some are of Engineers) For information contact: open only certain hours and days. Check John Martin Reservoir State Park guidebooks and ask locally before going 30703 Rd. 24 onto private land. Many state, , and Hasty, CO 81044 city museums, chambers of commerce, and 719-829-1801 tourist information centers provide Trail information. Distinctive signs mark the auto (USDA Forest tour route that parallels the Trail. Service) 714 N. Main St. Clayton, NM 88415 Certified Trail Properties: Non-federal 505-374-9652 historic sites, trail segments, and interpretive facilities that meet National Park Service Pecos National Historical Park (NPS) standards for resource protection and P.O. Box 418 public enjoyment may become part of the Pecos, NM 87552-0418 Santa Fe National Historic Trail through 505-757-6414 voluntary certification. Look for the official Trail logo. (USDA Forest Service) 1474 Rodeo Road As you visit Trail sites, please heed the P.O. Box 1689 following to protect yourself, the Trail, and Santa Fe, NM 87505 rights of private owners. Unless otherwise 505-438-7840 indicated, hike on designated trails and keep off historic buildings, ruins, and other structures. Do not use metal detectors, dig at sites, or collect—or disturb—artifacts. Obtain travel information for FE A T Missouri, Kansas, Colorado, T R N A I Oklahoma, or New Mexico A L from: S

Colorado Welcome Center ® 109 E. Beech, Suite B Lamar, CO 81052 719-336-3483

Colorado Welcome Center 309 Trinidad, CO 81082 719-846-9512

Kansas of Travel and Tourism 700 S.W. Harrison, Suite 1300 Topeka, KS 66603-3712 800-252-6727

Missouri Division of Tourism P.O. Box 1055 Jefferson City, MO 65102 800-877-1234

New Mexico Department of Tourism P.O. Box 20003 Santa Fe, NM 87503 800-545-2040

Oklahoma Tourism and Recreation Department 500 Will Rogers Memorial Bldg. 2401 N. Lincoln Blvd. , OK 73105-4492 800-652-6552