Pinar Çelik, Hüseyin Kadoğlu A Research on the Compact for Long Yarns Ege University, Department of Textile Engineering 35100 Bornova, Izmir, Turkey Abstract E-mail: [email protected] Compact spinning produces a new yarn structure, as the edge fibres are incorporated into the [email protected] yarn due to the elimination of the spinning triangle, so that the harmful effects of the spinning triangle on yarn characteristics are eliminated. The compact yarns possess less hairiness, better strength, better uniformity and lower values of thick & thin places and neps compared to the conventional ring-spun yarns. In this article, some quality parameters of long-staple compact yarns are compared to those of long-staple conventional ring yarns. Key words: compact spinning, conventional , spinning triangle, spin- ning, yarn hairiness, yarn tenacity. n Introduction yarn hairiness, especially on eliminating with lower twist coefficients, resulting in the longer hairs which have a particularly an increase in production rate, and also Compact spinning technology has been bad influence on the further process[ 4]. better handling properties of the end- gaining much more interest since its first product. commercial introduction at ITMA-Paris Many researchers have described the tech- in 1999. These spinning machines have nical principles of compact spinning and Another advantage of the compact spun been installed in several spinning facto- the more organised structure without pe- system is the fly and dust reduction as an ries all over the world. Compact spinning ripheral fibres and with a better twist dis- effect of condensation. The cleaning re- is a modified ring spinning process which tribution. The compact yarn shows higher quirement is reduced when compared to has special advantages, and can be used strength, reduced hairiness, and improved conventional ring spinning frames. in both short- and long-staple yarn spin- evenness. (Artzt, 1997 [5]; Olbrich, 2000 ning areas. [4]; Stalder, 2000 [3]). M. Nicolic et al. Compact spun worsted yarns also have [10,11]are among those researchers who the advantages of better quality proper- The zone between the line of contact investigated the similarities and differenc- ties and different surface specifications, of the pair of delivery rollers and the es in the structural, mechanical/physical which will help to improve further twisted end of the yarn is called the and texturing properties of ring-spun yarns processing and increase their production spinning triangle. In this zone, the fibre of 20 tex, manufactured from various yarn rate [7]. assembly contains no twist. Edge fibres blends (combed cotton, PET, CV, PA) splay out from this zone, and make little When using compact yarns, and allow- or no contribution to the yarn strength. from the same , employing compact spinning on the Fiomax 1000 and Fiomax ing for the same level of warp breaks, The spinning triangle is the critical the consumption of sizing agents can weak spot of the spinning process [1]. E1 ring-spinning machines from Suessen. According to their test results, the qualities be reduced. This provides considerable cost savings in sizing and de-sizing. The The spinning triangle prevents the edge of compact yarns are better than those of same is true for warp breaks in weaving. fibres from being completely incorporat- ring-spun yarns [10,11]. ed into the yarn body. However, in com- Compact yarns permit better yarn regu- pact spinning, the drafted fibres emerging The compact spinning process produces larity and the formation of a smoother from the nip line of the front roller of the a new yarn structure which approaches yarn surface. This reduces the number drafting arrangement are condensed in a the ideal staple fibre yarn construction of end-breaks by 30-50%, and leads to line [2]. even more closely. This has positive savings in the weaving department with effects on raw material use, productiv- significant improvements in efficiency, in Ring-spun yarn is not perfect. If the ity, downstream processing, and on the the range of 3-5% [6]. enlarged view of ring spun yarn is exam- product appearance [5]. ined, it is easy to see that the integration Industrial trials of compact yarns have of many fibres is poor, and they therefore The end breaks in spinning are approx. revealed a fly reduction of 1/3 on the make no contribution to yarn strength. 50% fewer, which permits the reduction In other words, if all fibres could be of the number of fibres in the cross-sec- completely integrated in the yarn, both tion, or to spin a finer yarn count. Reduc- strength and elongation could in turn ing the possibility of the number of fibres be further enhanced. It is thus obvi- in the cross-section allows for the use of ous that even ring-spun yarns are not lower-priced tops with coarser fibres [6]. yet ideal as regards yarn structure [3]. In compact yarns, fibres are uniformly The development of the compact spin- oriented and joined into the yarn right ning process began with the desire to after the end of the drafting arrangement. achieve a significant step for yarn quality Therefore, better tenacity, elongation, by influencing the spinning triangle (Fig- and hairiness properties can be ensured. ure 1). This work is focused on achieving The better tenacity properties of compact Figure 1. Conventional and compact ring higher yarn strength and a reduction of spun yarn provide opportunities to work spinning yarns (Spinnovation 7/2000) [9].

FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe October / December 2004, Vol. 12, No. 4 (48) 27 knitting machine. If one considers the compact spinning equipments (Suessen the test results, statistical results and F number of faults due to knitted-in fly EliTe) was available. It was thus pos- values are found in Çelik [12]). lumps as a percentage of the total fault sible to compare both the systems under count in knitting, there is distinct cost- identical machine conditions. Table 1 Yarn evenness reducing potential here with the use of shows the experiment plan. After the these yarns. [5] With their increased yarn spinning trials, the physical properties of When we examined the yarn evenness of strength and reduced formation of fluff, each yarn sample were measured, and the 100%- yarns, the Uster CV% and compact yarns permit higher machine measurement results of conventional ring the thin place values of both compact and efficiency to be achieved, and therefore yarns and compact yarns were compared conventional yarns were found to have production on knitting machines can to each other. a statistically significant difference for a achieve a reduced ends-down rate, fewer significance level of α=0.05 for both 19 interruptions and fewer fabric faults [8]. Yarn evenness (CV%), thick & thin tex and 25 tex yarn counts (Figure 2). On places, nep values and yarn hairiness the other hand, the differences of the two values were measured with an Uster spinning systems in terms of the mean n Experimental Tester 3 (the measurement length was numbers of thick places and neps of Materials and methods 400 m/bobbin). Yarn tenacity (cN/Tex) 100% wool yarns were found to be sta- tistically significant for only the fine yarn In this study, we compared the yarn and elongation at break (%) were meas- count, 19 tex. The Uster CV%, the thin properties of compact yarns and the ured with a Statimat M. In addition, yarn and thick place values of compact and conventional ring spun yarns in terms of hairiness was also measured with a Zwei- yarn hairiness (the number of protruding gle G565 yarn hairiness tester (the meas- conventional 45% wool/55% PET yarns fibres on the yarn’s surface), yarn even- urement length was 100 m/bobbin). were found to have a statistically signifi- ness, tenacity and elongation (%). cant difference for 19 tex (Figure 3). n Results and Discussion The experimental work of this study was When we examined the yarn irregular- conducted on a Long Staple Tester PR The compact spun yarns had better yarn ity CV%, there was a statistically sig- 135 ring spinning machine by using four property values - irregularity, thinand nificant difference between the compact different raw materials. Compact spin- thick places, nep values, yarn hairiness, and conventional ring yarns which was ning has some advantages for both weav- tenacity and elongation at break (%) produced with 50% wool/50% PAN for ing and knitting. The 100% wool and - than the conventional ring spun yarns both two yarn counts, 25 tex and 36 tex, 45% wool/55% PET materials were spun for all material types. The 100% wool and all twist factor levels; but the differ- with weaving twist factors, and the 50% yarn hairiness test results were given in ences of two systems were found to be wool/50% PAN and 100% PAN materials Table 2 as an example. statistically significant in terms of thin were spun with knitting twist factors. In and thick places for fine yarn count only, the market, acrylic yarns and their blends The results obtained from the laboratory 25 tex (Table 3). with wool are usually preferred for knit- testing of yarn samples were statistically ting products; on the other hand, wool evaluated by using SPSS software. Vari- The differences of compact-spun and and wool/PET worsted yarns are usually ance analysis was applied, and by using conventionally-spun yarns which were preferred for woven products. F values we tried to find out if there was produced with 100% PAC, in terms of any statistically significant difference the Uster CV% and I.P.I. values (thin & On the ring spinning machine, the op- between the yarn quality data of conven- thick places and neps) were not found to tion of spinning compact yarn by adding tional and compact yarns. (The details of be statistically significant, but the com-

Table 1. Experimental plan.

Longstapel Tester PR135 Longstapel Tester PR135 Longstapel Tester PR135 Longstapel Tester PR135 Parameter conventional ring compact ring spinning conventional ring compact ring spinning spinning machine machine spinning machine machine Yarn count, tex 19 19 25 25 100% wool Twist coefficient, texα 2530, 2685, 2845, 3160 2530, 2685, 2845, 3160 2530, 2685, 2845, 3160 2530, 2685, 2845, 3160 (21.3 micron, max. fibre length 130 mm) count, tex 2.3 2.3 2.3 2.3 speed, rpm 9200 9200 9200 9200 Yarn count, tex 19 19 25 25 45%wool/50% PET Twist coefficient, texα 2530, 2685, 2845, 3160 2530, 2685, 2845, 3160 2530, 2685, 2845, 3160 2530, 2685, 2845, 3160 (wool 22 micron/PET 1.65 dtex) Roving count, tex 2.1 2.1 2.1 2.1 Spindle speed, rpm 9200 9200 9200 9200 Yarn count, tex 25 25 36 36 50%wool/50% PAN Twist coefficient, texα 1675, 1900, 2055, 2210 1675, 1900, 2055, 2210 1675, 1900, 2055, 2210 1675, 1900, 2055, 2210 (wool 23.5 micron/ PAN 3.3 dtex) Roving count, tex 2 2 2 2 Spindle speed, rpm 9200 9200 9200 9200 Yarn count, tex 25 25 36 36

Twist coefficient, texα 1675, 1900, 2055, 2210 1675, 1900, 2055, 2210 1675, 1900, 2055, 2210 1675, 1900, 2055, 2210 100% PAN (3.3 dtex) Roving count, tex 2.1 2.1 1.3 1.3 Spindle speed, rpm 9200 9200 9200 9200

28 FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe October / December 2004, Vol. 12, No. 4 (48) FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe October / December 2004, Vol. 12, No. 4 (48) 29 pact yarns’ Uster CV% values are lower Table 2. Yarn hairiness test results of 100% wool yarns. than the conventional ones. 100% wool 25 tex yarn 100% wool 25 tex yarn

Measured yarn properties αtex αtex αtex αtex αtex αtex αtex αtex Yarn tenacity and elongation 2530 2690 2845 3160 2530 2690 2845 3160 For all material types, the tenacity and conventional 6.38 6.14 5.99 5.54 6.97 6.61 6.38 6.06 Hairiness (H) elongation (%) values of compact yarns Uster compact 4.71 4.52 4.34 4.02 4.82 4.64 4.49 4.29 were higher than those of the conven- Tester 3 conventional 1.85 1.75 1.73 1.60 1.86 1.76 1.71 1.62 sh tional ring yarns. But the evaluations of compact 1.30 1.26 1.20 1.07 1.26 1.22 1.16 1.09 statistical analysis results of the differ- conventional 7828 8458 8493 8336 9149 9617 9724 9530 Class 1 mm ence of two systems changed according compact 4723 4930 5062 5288 5773 5934 5687 5407 to the types of material. conventional 2240 2400 2420 2267 2646 2674 2662 2501 Class 2 mm When we examined yarn tenacity, there compact 1240 1255 1276 1239 1431 1424 1356 1290 was an important difference between conventional 964 1082 1062 938 1151 1173 1085 1044 Class 3 mm compact and conventional ring yarns compact 418 412 419 374 505 455 430 387 which were produced with 100% wool conventional 503 573 553 479 609 607 550 481 Zweigle Class 4 mm for two yarn counts and all twist levels. G 566 compact 175 155 143 133 187 171 165 125 The compact-spun yarns’ tenacity and Hairiness conventional 162 185 180 157 189 169 139 158 Tester Class 6 mm elongation (%) values are higher than the compact 25 30 28 19 35 27 29 19 conventional ones, but at the high twist Class 8 mm conventional 99 126 124 109 98 93 65 128 level, the elongation values of compact compact 11 12 12 10 12 12 10 9 and conventional ring yarns were very conventional 47 61 63 53 36 46 25 71 Class 10 mm similar. compact 3 2 2 3 3 3 3 4 S3-value conventional 1814 2086 2041 1779 2110 2130 1887 1966 On the other hand, when we examined (∑≥3 mm) compact 634 613 606 540 744 670 637 545 45% wool/55% PET yarns, the differ- ences of tenacity values were found to Table 3. Test results and statistical results of 50% Wool/50% PAN yarns (*statistically be statistically significant only for 25 significant forα =0.05). tex yarns (Figure 4). In addition, there was no statistically significant difference 50% wool/50% PAN 25 tex yarn Measured yarn properties between the compact and conventional αtex αtex αtex αtex ring yarns which were produced with 1675 1900 2055 2210 conventional 8.25 9.39 9.81 10.21 45% wool/50% PET for elongation (%) Yarn tenacity, cN/tex values, and those for both yarn counts. compact 9.80 10.66 11.12 11.23 Statistical evaluation significance 0.000* 0.000* 0.000* 0.002* conventional 17.22 16.93 16.90 16.87 There was a statistically significant dif- Uster CV% ference between the compact and con- compact 16.42 16.25 16.06 16.04 ventional ring yarns produced with 50% Statistical evaluation significance 0.001* 0.000* 0.000* 0.000* wool/50% PAN in terms of yarn tenacity conventional 96 75 92 80 Thin places/1000 m for both yarn counts, 25 tex and 36 tex. compact 60 44 48 55 However, the differences in the two spin- Statistical evaluation significance 0.002* 0.001* 0.000* 0.034* ning systems were found to be significant conventional 31 21 22 18 Thick places/1000 m in terms of elongation (%) values for 25 compact 13 14 9 7 tex yarns only. Statistical evaluation significance 0.009* 0.028* 0.013* 0.006* conventional 8.18 6.89 6.62 6.14 When we examined 100% PAN yarns, Hairiness (H) compact 5.83 5.34 4.80 4.73 there were statistically significant dif- Statistical evaluation significance 0.001* 0.000* 0.000* 0.000* ferences between the two spinning sys- conventional 1897 1646 1634 1553 tems for low twist levels only in terms Zweigle hairiness S3 of tenacity and elongation at break (%) compact 955 729 631 607 (Figure 5). Statistical evaluation significance 0.000* 0.000* 0.000* 0.002*

Yarn hairiness statistical analyses, statistically sig- in all hair length classes on the compact When we examined yarn hairiness val- nificant differences were found between yarn’s surface. This improvement was ues, the compact yarns’ hairiness values compact and conventional ring yarns for found to be promising for the compact were very low, even for yarns with all material types in terms of Uster hairi- yarn’s subsequent textile processes. For low twist levels for all material types. ness and Zweigle hairiness. example, knitting yarns are generally For example in 36 tex yarns produced with 50%wool/50% PAN, the compact spun with low twist values which pro- yarns’ S3 values were found as 1115 for The hairiness properties of yarns were vide softer and hairier yarn. Although αtex=2530, and 769 for αtex=3160. On measured using a Zweigle G565 hairiness high hairiness of a yarn is accepted as an the other hand, the classic yarns’ S3 val- tester which classifies hair length on yarn advantage for some knitting yarns, it is ues were found as 2563 for αtex=2530, surfaces. The hairiness measurementss- also a disadvantage because it is a source and 1643 for αtex=3160. According to how that there is a significant reduction of pilling. The S3 code, which defines

28 FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe October / December 2004, Vol. 12, No. 4 (48) FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe October / December 2004, Vol. 12, No. 4 (48) 29 Figure 2. Thin places values of 100% wool yarns. Figure 3. Uster CV% values of 45% wool/55% PET yarns.

Figure 4. Yarn tenacity values of 45% wool/55% PET yarns. Figure 5. Yarn tenacity values of 100% PAN yarns.

the total number of hairs of 3mm length them with conventional ring yarns. In of α=0.05 between all the yarn properties and above, exhibits a hairiness level addition, low twist level means high of 100% wool compact and conventional that causes the pilling problem. When production. ring yarns. In terms of other yarns spun compact and conventional yarns are with 45% wool/50% PET, 50% wool/ compared, it is seen that compact yarns 50% PAN and 100% PAN raw materi- have lower S3 values than conventional n Summary als, these differences have not been ring yarns (Figure 6). In addition, yarn In this experimental work, some of found statistically significant for all yarn hairiness is very important for the weav- the yarn properties of compact spun parameters. 100% wool compact yarns ing preparation and process, so compact and conventional ring spun yarns were have better tenacity, elongation at break weaving yarns have more advantages (%), evenness, thinand thick places, nep than conventional ring yarns in terms of compared. We investigated the effects of spinning technique and material type on values and hairiness values than conven- yarn hairiness and yarn strength. tional ring yarns. But only 50% wool/ the properties of yarn. 50% PAN compact yarns have better According to these results, although the tenacity and lower yarn evenness (Uster The compact yarns covered in this study compact yarns are produced with low CV%) values than conventional ring showed better yarn properties than con- twist levels, their yarn hairiness values yarns, and their differences were found ventional ring yarns. It has been demon- are lower than the conventional ring to be statistically significant for α=0.05. strated that there are statistically signifi- yarns. So we can produce softer products In 100% PAN yarns, the difference of with compact yarns when we compare cant differences for the significance level Uster CV% and I.P.I. values between two spinning systems were not found to be statistically significant for α=0.05. According to these results, the difference of yarn parameters between two spinning systems is clearer when natural fibres are used. In addition, the difference is clearer when a high percentage of natural fibre is used in the blend, also.

Another comparison was made between Figure 6. Zweigle two yarn counts, and it was seen that hairiness S3 values of 50% Wo/50% there was also a significant difference PAN yarns. between the two different yarn numbers.

30 FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe October / December 2004, Vol. 12, No. 4 (48) FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe October / December 2004, Vol. 12, No. 4 (48) 31 In the fine yarn counts, the number of for producing different products in the § Investigations into compact yarn’s fibres in the yarn cross-section is more future. Weaving and knitting sectors advantages in downstream processing important than the coarser yarn counts, can profit from the compact spinning (weaving, knitting, dyeing, etc.) should because fine yarn has fewer fibres than system. be still continued. coarser yarn in the yarn cross-section. In compact spinning, the drafted fibres emerging from the nip line of the drafting arrangement’s front roller are condensed n Conclusions References in a line. In this way, almost all the § Fine compact yarns have more ad- 1. Hechtl R., Melliand International, 1996, drafted fibres are incorporated into the vantages than fine conventional ring Vol.1, p.12-13. yarn body. Thus, fine compact yarns have yarns. 2. Kadoğlu H., Melliand International, 2001, more advantages than fine conventional Vol. 7, p. 23-25. § The most important advantage of ring yarns. 3. Stalder H., Melliand English, 2000, Vol.3, the compact spinning technique is p. E26-E27. a reduction in yarn hairiness, which In addition, the compact yarns at low 4. Olbrich A., Melliand English, 2000, Vol. brings new opportunities for the 3, p. E27-E28. twist level have better yarn properties production of different products in 5. Artzt P., International Textile Bulletin, values than conventional yarns at high the future. The weaving and knitting 1997, Vol. 2, p. 41-48. twist level. For example, in 25 tex yarns 6. Campen W., Melliand English, 2002, Vol. produced with 50% wool/50% PAN, con- branches can profit from the compact 6, p. E82-E83. ventional ring yarn tenacity values were spinning system. 7. Anonym, Spinnovation, 2001, September, § Although the compact spinning tech- p. 6-7. 8.25 cN/tex for αtex=1675, and 9.81 cN/ tex for α =2055. On the other hand, the nique brings advantages regarding 8. Anonym, Spinnovation, 2000, December, tex p. 18-19. compact yarn tenacity value was 9.80 quality and production, we must bear in mind that the investment cost of 9. Anonym, Spinnovation, 2000, July, p. 8-11. cN/tex for αtex=1675. 10. Nicolic M., Lesjak F, Stritof A., TEKSTIL, the compact spinning machines are 2000, July, 49(7), p. 349-356. However, the most important advantage higher than the conventional ring 11. Nikolic M, Stjepanovic Z, Lesjak F, Stritof of the compact spinning technique is the spinning machines, and the cost of A., Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe, reduction in yarn hairiness. When we compact yarn is higher than the con- Vol. 11, No 4 (43), 2003, p. 30-35. looked at the laboratory results for all ventional ones, also. Consequently, 12. Celik P., M.Sc. Thesis, The Institute of Natural and Applied Sciences, Ege Uni- worsted compact yarns are preferred material types, the compact spun yarns versity, Izmir-Turkey, 2002, September. have less yarn hairiness than the conven- for high quality and expensive prod- tional ring-spun yarns. This reduction in ucts, especially for woven fabrics in yarn hairiness brings new opportunities the market. Received 15.03.2004 Reviewed 02.07.2004

8th International Conference ArchTex ‘High Technologies in Textiles’ 18-20 September 2005, Kraków, Poland Organiser: Institute of Textile Architecture (IAT), Łódź, Poland.

International Scientific Committee President - Professor Iwona Frydrych, Ph.D., D.Sc. (IAT, Łódź, Poland). Members: Prof. Mario de Araújo, Ph.D., D.Sc. (University of Minho, Portugal); Kim Gandhi, Ph.D. (UMIST, Manchester, Great Britain); Urania Kechagia, Ph.D. (NAGREF, Thessaloniki, Greece); Prof. Jiři Militký, Ph.D., D.Sc., Eur. Ing. (Technical University of Liberec, Czech Republic); Prof. Edward Rybicki, Ph.D., D.Sc. (IAT, Łódź, Poland); Prof. Arvydas Vitkauskas, Ph.D., D.Sc. (Kaunas University of Technology, Lithuania). Organising Committee President - Andrzej Kluka, M.Sc. Secretary - Małgorzata Skrobecka, M.Sc.

Scientific and technical topics Important dates: § The latest worlds’ advanced technologies of: production of § Submission of abstract - 15 January 2005 man-made fabrics, spinning, finishing, knitting, clothing, § Acceptance of paper and instructions for preparing paper and nonwovens. - 15 February 2005 § Information technology in textiles. § Submission of full papers - 31 March 2005. § Nanotechnology in textiles. § Technical textiles. For more information please contact: § Medtextiles. Institute of Textile Architecture § Quality assurance systems in the textile industry. ul. Piotrkowska 276, 90-950 Łódź, Poland § Environment protection and ecology. Tel.: (48-42) 682-59-29 Fax (48-42) 684-23-00 § Protective clothing. E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.iat.com.pl

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