Western Ghat Cycling Expedition-1 April 4 to 9 2007 515 km (thenmala, ambanad hills, , vagamon)

Day 1

Play Safe or Go Wild?

destinations • atelier ( 6:45 am) - 0 km • creek (10:00 am) - 30 km • thenmala (3:30 pm) - 69 km • ambanad Hills (6:30 pm) - 90 km

4 April 2007

Day 1 - Play Safe or Go Wild?

Check list The Making of Western Ghat Trip Music—CD player + CD + □ charger Partly inspired from the immense success of the previous cycling expeditions and partly Cash—Rs. 2500/- opti- □ mal Rs. 300/- per day from the need of a low-budget vacation, one of the most wildest, adventurous and exciting Dress—3 tees + 3 trou- □ trip-plan was born. In fact it was there dor- sers + towel (no under- garments please) mant for quite some time, waiting for the right time to sprout. And what better time than Mobile + charger □ when business responsibilities were relaxed Books— travel + □ and all the financial year ending mayhem sett- pocket diary + business led. development Sunset at ambanad hills—an unexpected gift of Day 1 Camera □ Though not an early bird, the day started with an amazing bout of energy. A funny Hygiene Accessories □ idea of strategically placing a bag of grapes on the handle bar ensured that I could (minimal) eat while riding. This helped in taking me the initial few kilometers without break- fast. Come anad (18 km) and the smell of hot appam and kadala curry tempted me to take the first break. The Strategy

• Maximize mountain biking “Bridge in danger” was the next signpost I • Tentative return date—9/4 was on the lookout for. What if the bridge was in danger, it was very safe under the bridge • Travel up—4,5 & 6 for a quick dip at the creek. That’s when the • Travel down—7,8 & 9 first entry into the traveling diary was made. • 60 to 70 km per day on That’s also when I found out one of the most mountain terrains inspiring ways to write– by stretching out your legs into the stream of running water! • 90 to 100 km per day on

level roads Halt at the creek for a quick dip The roads start winding upwards and the real excitement begins. Is this just the intial • No booze! enthusiasm or will it last, I wondered.

Page 2 Day 1 - Play Safe or Go Wild

, the regular, safer and less challenging So how could I make the trip wild option or try to find a way through the forest and and memorable? The answer the mountains to the other side. A quick check with lied in doing something more the map made me realize that there were no unusual than the usual. charted road connecting thenmala with achankovil. Something adventurous with a A casual chat with the local residents confirmed dash of spook and a pinch this and their warnings about wild animals on the of uncertainity. lurk after dark only added to the excitement. With my mind sorted I analyzed A sudden gush of troubles hindered my journey a the available options with a new A silly but adventurous shortcut bit—chain slippage, fatigue, muscular spasms and perspective—either go down to finally the call from trichur office for clarifications which took over half an hour. But once decided nothing actually can deter me. So here I took the turn into ambanad hills and within hours all signs of humanity vanished completely.

“either go down to punalur, the regular The forest, though offered splendid sights, was a difficult terrain because it was hot, humid and not a single leaf was fluttering due to absence of wind. safer and less challenging option or Everything was so still that I was wondering if I was actually watching a try to find a way through the forest painting of the forest. Anyway the journey soon became from unbearable to unthinkable with me running out of water, extreme fatigue and lack of any and mountains to the other side!” road signs.

Out of desperation I ended up doing something silly. Spotting the winding road reaching high up ahead I thought of taking a shortcut by climbing through the forest. Half way through happened an almost black out and I had to halt for almost ten minutes. Took some snaps at this awkward posi- tion which, to my surprise, turned out pretty well.

However tough the going was, the tempting jungle trail ensured that the journey continued. Soon the sun gave up on tormenting me and a gentle breeze began to soothe me. But as darkness crept in a new anxiety crept in—”where in this jungle would I sleep tonight?”

The signpost reading “Private property” on arrival at ambanad estate further darkened my fears. On enquiry I realized that there was this es- tate bungalow for tourists but it would cost around three thousand ru- pees, all of my budget!. I had two options—either shack somewhere at the canteen or rush back. You know me by now so I settled for an early night at the floor of the canteen. To win the sympathy of the workers was easy. I was already looking pathetic and a ‘lost-in-the-jungle’ story The jungle trail—perfect for mountain biking and really helped. trekking

So that brought an end to the first day of the trip and yes it felt good sleeping on the hard floor in the hut in the middle of nowhere.

Day 2

Country Walking Through the Forest

destinations • ambanad hills ( 6:45 am) - 0 km • achankovil (11:30 am) - 20 km • creek (1:20 pm) - 28 km • konni (8:35 pm) - 82 km

5 April 2007

Day 2 - Country Walking Through the Forest

Breathtaking and Unexplored

Had to compromise on the breakfast for an early start. Made a quick check of all systems and yes I was raging to go! The journey started on cycle. How- ever, on entry into the jungle the roads vanished and soon I was forced to walk. To call it country walking would be improper because in the entire stretch of five hours I barely came across half a dozen pedestrians and a jeep. So beyond a point, after exiting the tea estate, it was more of jungle trailing than country walking.

The walk through the jungle rewarded me with a wide mix of emotions, at times I was awestruck by the breathtaking views and then I was desperately lost and tired. At a point when I got into the thick jungle it got so dark that I confess that I was a bit spooked. Entry to the forest—End of civilization Then came an intersection that I would never forget. It would be too silly ex- pecting a sign post in the middle of a jungle so I waited for about half an hour for someone to turn up and give me directions. No one turned up and I was forced to make a choice with a fear that a wrong turn would take me further into the jungle. Yes I was sure I had made that wrong turn. For another hour or so there were no signs of humanity. Then it happened, a distant horn of a jeep and boy I was pleased. I rushed in that direction and soon realized that I was back on track. Hypocrisy I admit, because few hours ago I was desperate to reach back civilization and now I was upset emerging from the forest.

Good Roads, Bad Roads Lessons from Day 1 A simple but sumptuous meals and lots of kanji • Carry a good back up of vellam from a tea stall helped me regain my en- fluids ergy. The journey continued again on cycle but • Cover face with a wet towel, was soon met with hopelessly damaged roads. I feels good with the wind of was so desperate and was telling my self that I the face was better off lost in the jungle! • Have a preventive self mas- I had gone too far to turn back and was thinking sage to avoid spasms of breaking my principle and hitchhiking.

That’s when I heard the rumble of a river. The achankovil river. Spent almost an hour in the river and that was enough. It was so rejuvenating that I felt I Natural Cove and Private Pool could cycle all the way to thekaddi non stop.

Page 2 Day 2 - Country Walking Through the Forest

Then I was almost shocked to see one of the most beautiful roads that I have seen in my entire life. How could the same government make such drasti- cally varying roads within the span of few kilometers?

With the arrival of good roads I started a new concept of mental flagging. At definite intervals with good experiences I started putting up mental flags which read. “All the pains taken to this point have been rewarded”

Thus ended the descend from the first hill of my expedition and I had to cover as much as I could before hitting the sack for the day. So I covered another forty five kilometers and reached a place named konni at around 8:30 pm. Cyclist’s Paradise—One of the Best Roads Traveled

Took a small lodge room and washed up some cloths. The stay was unbelievably enjoyable for just sixty rupees a night. Sleep came easy dreaming about the heights that I would conquer the next day.

Day 3

Friday was Good

destinations • konni ( 8:00 am) - 0 km • (12:10 pm) - 40 km • kuttikanam (6:00 pm) - 73 km

6 April 2007

Day 3 - Friday was Good - Real Good

Good Friday started a little late with me resting my weary bones till 7 am. Sleep was my constant companion till noon. Had I not been on move I would have been cuddling up somewhere. Thinking about the destination did not do much good so had to gulp down a whole pack of glucose. Now that had some effect “Honestly a simple and by 1 pm I was fully awake and alert. The level terrain ended at a place called logic kept me going Mundakkayam. That was the entry point into . on—the more you People warned me of steep ascend. I did not take heed but the one thing that was struggle pushing the cycle up the ascend bothering me was the insufferable heat. Already I had tanned a bit and was sure that the more you are going by the end of the trip I would be sunburned. But I kept rolling on. Or exactly I kept to enjoy the roller- strolling on. I could barely pedal a kilometer or two during the entire twenty one kilo- costar ride down". meter stretch from mundakkayam to kuttikanam. But beyond a point sun had vanished amongst the clouds and I was enjoying every bit of the lazy stroll.

Vehicles were vrooming past. Children were looking with amusement and college freaks were a bit teasing . I knew they were not offensive and took it in lighter spirits. But four hours of pushing my cycle with the bag in tow was be- ginning to get difficult. Breaks were more frequent and fluids were gushing down in huge quantities. Beyond a point I stopped wiping the sweat dripping into my eyes. I was eagerly waiting for the hair pin bend after which the roads would level down for me to pedal.

Honestly a simple logic kept me going on—the more you struggle pushing the cycle up the ascend the more you are going to enjoy the roller-costar ride down.

By the time I reached kuttikanam it was around 6 pm. Climate was really soothing and I was looking forward to hitting the sack early. Unfortunately all rooms were taken up by participants of a gather- ing at a church. I was getting ready to sleep by the closed shops when I stumbled upon a room. Sleep did not come as easily as I had hoped for thanks to the mosquitoes. Listening to the At Last after 21 km of Trekking songs ,angel of sleep visited me around 1 am.

Day 4

Payback Day

destinations • kuttikanam (8:10 am) - 0 km • ellapara (10:00 am) - 8 km • vagamon (11:30 am) - 22 km • palai (6:45 pm) - 60 km

7 April 2007

Day 4 - Payback Day

It had to happen sooner or later. And it happened precisely on Day 4. I felt proud, excited and exhilarated! The cake had been delivered and the dishes have been served. All I had to do was to jump in!

Everything about the day was picture perfect, precisely chiseled for maximum pleasure.

Tension Free Start Unlike the previous three days the fourth day had no target destinations or targets. The only agenda was to have fun! So started off aimlessly around 8: 30 am. Took snaps to hearts content and was breezing down the gentle slopes with the soft kiss of clean air.

Cool Afternoons For the last three days afternoons were greasy, itchy and fatigue-filled. So it was a comfortable change when at 1 pm I was feeling cool breeze on my face and not a drop of sweat. It was payback day after all!

All Gain no Pain “How far would this ecstasy last?” that was the constant thought from 9 Breezing Down Kissing the Clean Air am to 3 pm! Definitely more than I had deserved for the pains I had taken to climb the ascend. The only muscles that moved were of the hands applying brakes! Not a minute of pedal- ing!. The only sounds being that of occasional vehicles or the sounds of the forest. Miscalculated payback!

And Came the Rain As if I was not fully satisfied with the results, mother nature showered her love in the form of much-awaited rain. At that very point I regretted getting angry for hot and humid days 1 to 3.

My Favorite Shots at Tea Estate

Day 5 & 6

All Good Things Come to an End (only to start all over again!)

destinations Day 5 Day 6 • palai - 0 km • - 137 km • - 29 km • - 181 km • - 101 km • atelier - 210 km • karunagapally - 114 km

8 & 9 April 2007

Day 5 & 6 - All Good Things Come to an End (to start all over again!)

The return journey was quiet sober an uneventful. Most of the time I was lost in the memories of the last 4 days. Rest of the time I was day dreaming the next trip. Any way the stay at hotels were comfortable and it gave me some time to summarize the journey.

1 Total Distance Covered 515 km

2 Total Mountain Terrain 194 km

3 Total Forest Trails 28 km

4 Total Expenses Rs. 1650 only!

5 Best Moments Kuttikanam to Vagamon

6 Toughest Moments Trekking up Ambanad Hills

7 Average Daily Mileage Level Terrains—90 to 105 km per day Mountain Terrains– 60 to 80 km per day

Lessons for the next trip

• Protect your skin from sunburn • Plan maximum coverage during mornings from 6 am to 10 am and in evenings from 4 pm to 7 pm • Pack fluids and glucose if you are planning a jungle trail trekking • Wear a cap if possible • Minimize luggage—a heavy bag does not help when pushing the cycle up hill