B hutan THE LAST SHANGRI-LA

MARCH 24 – APRIL 5, 2017 TOUR LEADER: JUDY TENZING

Tigers Nest, Paro

Bhutan Overview The last Shangri-La

Little has changed over the centuries in the tiny Kingdom of , perched among the pristine forests and snow-capped peaks of the eastern Tour dates: March 24 – April 5, 2017 Himalayas. Only at the time of the present King’s father’s coronation (1974) was the first trickle of foreigners permitted to enter. It still remains Tour leader: Judy Tenzing an isolated land and the present King is keen to preserve its rich historic customs and cultural traditions, memorably expressed in its architecture – Tour Price: $9,825 pp, twin share (land only) mountain-top , Buddhist temples and traditional villages – as well as in its textiles and its hardy and proud people. Its history is a Single Supplement: $1,745 for sole use of capsule of all that is mystical about the Himalaya; re-incarnate rulers who double room used black magic to defeat Tibetan aggressors, -saints who foretold the future and fought demons opposed to the spread of , civil Booking deposit: $500 per person wars between powerful district governors, known as , who laid plot and counter-plot in an endless cycle of strife and assassinations. Our 12- Recommended airline: Thai Airways day tour takes you across the country at a gentle pace, visiting remote mountain monasteries, examining local arts and crafts and marvelling at Maximum places: 20 the scenery with visits to the dzongs and villages. This remote corner of the Himalaya can be unpredictable and will be a challenging adventure to a place only just emerging into the twenty-first century. Come with an Itinerary: Bangkok (1night), Paro (3 nights), open mind and the willingness to appreciate Bhutan as it is and you will be (2 nights), Wangdue (1 night), Gangtey afforded a rare and wonderful experience. (2 nights), Punakha (2 nights), Paro (2 nights) Date published: May 18, 2016 Your tour leader

Judy Tenzing has a lifelong passion for travel and over 30 years’ experience as a tour leader on the sub-continent and in Asia. Judy has a degree in South Asian History and has regularly presented courses at Sydney University’s Centre for Continuing Education on the history and culture of this remarkable region. Bhutan has always been a special destination for her – its unique combination of stunning natural beauty, a rich and ancient culture plus an attitude to the modern world, and Bhutan’s place in it, that makes most first world nations stand up and take notice.

Being tucked away at the far eastern end of the great Himalaya, Bhutan remained isolated from the outside world until the 1970s and even then, trod a very careful path towards emergence from this isolation in ensuing decades. The monarchy and the new parliamentary government have maintained a clear focus on protecting and preserving Bhutan’s rich Buddhist culture as well as its thriving art, textiles and architectural heritage. This strong sense of national identity permeates Enquiries and every town and village in Bhutan and ensures that all Bhutanese bookings understand and appreciate the importance of maintaining Bhutan’s extraordinary natural and cultural environment. For further information and to Judy says, “There is no other place like Bhutan and it is a privilege to be secure a place on this tour able to visit this tiny kingdom and learn from all that they have achieved please contact Erin Laffin at and value”. Academy Travel on 9235 0023 or 1800 639 699 A passenger on Judy’s most recent tour commented: “Judy Tenzing was (outside Sydney) or email an excellent tour leader and the tour was very well paced. The [email protected] accommodation choices were excellent.”

Caption

BHUTAN: A KINGDOM LIKE NO OTHER

In a recent TED Talk the Prime Minister of Bhutan, Mr Tshering Tobgay, stated that Bhutan is not “Shangri La” – that it is, in fact, a tiny, developing country of just 700,000 people with a GDP of less than $2 billion sandwiched between the 21st century superpowers of China and India and is simply trying to survive. This of course is true but as Tshering Tobgay humbly goes on to explain, Bhutan is also one of the most remarkable places on earth. It offers extraordinary natural beauty – a land which encompasses 7,000m Himalayan peaks, endless valleys of virgin forests and sub-tropical lowlands which produce a vast array of food. Its spiritual and cultural riches make it the last true bastion of the Mahayana Buddhist culture in full bloom, with meticulously preserved fortress monasteries (dzongs) and a unique national architectural style that is protected by law. Add to this its vibrant monastic community as well the rich tapestry of its art and textile traditions and you have a nation that, however small, makes quite a mark on the world.

However, the concept that is most impressive about Bhutan is their very real support of the concept of what the 4th King – His Majesty Jigme Singye Wangchuk – called Gross National Happiness. It is easy to take this as a somewhat token slogan for a country whose people are still mostly farmers and mountain dwellers – yet this would be to miss the point. Gross National Happiness is a holistic approach to national development within the framework of a sound working government. It incorporates economic growth, social development, environmental sustainability and cultural preservation – and it is taken very seriously indeed by the Bhutanese and their rulers who understand that non -economic aspects of well-being are of equal importance to economic ones.

There is an actual Department of Gross National Happiness in Thimphu, Bhutan’s tiny capital and it oversees and monitors nine main domains of Bhutanese life – namely psychological wellbeing, health, education, time use, cultural diversity and resilience, good governance, community vitality, ecological diversity and living standards. There is input from all sectors of the community, from the King to the elected government and the general populace and its findings are scrutinised and affect policy development and decisions. Bhutan has become a nation that watches and learns – from the rest of the world and from its own mistakes and successes. It is exceptional in so many ways and there is a great deal that we in the “developed” world could learn from this tiny Himalayan kingdom.

Tour Highlights

 Bhutan’s remarkable architecture as seen it its fortresses and monasteries, such as the Tigers Nest in Paro  The towering Himalayan peaks of the eastern Himalaya – many over 7,000m  The remote and splendid Phobkijha Valley in central Bhutan – winter home of the famed black-necked cranes  The rich architecture and textile traditions of this ancient land  The wonderful people of Bhutan – archers, farmers, artists and aesthetics  The vast , one of the most spectacular buildings in Asia  Revered Buddhist painting and sculpture in shrines, monasteries and galleries  The dramatic Dochu La pass (3140 m), where on a clear day, one gets magnificent views of the eastern Himalayas Above: a depicting Guru Padmasambhawa, patron saint of Bhutan

Above: 108 memorial chortens punctuate the landscape along the Dochu La pass Above: a beautifully carved wall fragment Tigers Nest

Above: Punakha Dzong's stunning location makes it arguably the most beautiful in Bhutan

Detailed itinerary

Included meals are shown with the symbols B, L and D.

Friday 24 March bangkok The tour commences in Bangkok at the Novotel Suvarnabhumi Airport Hotel. Current Druk Air schedules make a pre-tour stay at Bangkok Airport impossible to avoid.

saturday 25 March bangkok to paro Our Druk Air flight departs for Paro early this morning. After some time to settle in and a hearty lunch we visit the imposing Paro Dzong also known as which means ‘fortress on a heap of jewels’, built in 1646 by Shabdrung Nawang Namgyal. Housed in the Dzong’s ancient watchtower is the Paro Museum (Ta Dzong), which houses a wonderful collection of art, armoury and weaponry and textiles and is a beautifully maintained showcase of Bhutanese history. Dzongs are large forts which dominate every major town in Bhutan. They are the administrative and religious centres of the district and were once the mainstay of each district’s defences against invading Tibetans and, often, rival Bhutanese clans. The evening, like most in Bhutan, is free to relax and enjoy some real Bhutanese hospitality with our welcome dinner. Overnight Paro (L, D)

sunday 26 March in paro Today we visit the far reaches of the Paro valley and the Above: A traditional covered wooden bridge crosses the Paro River leading to Rinpung Dzong; prayer flags flutter in the breeze spreading ruined monastery/fortress of Drugyel Dzong. The dzong was goodwill and peace to all destroyed by fire early in the 20th century. However, it is an interesting coincidence that the destruction of the fortress occurred around the time when the Governor of Paro was opposing the Tongsa , who eventually became Below: Buddhist rituals play an integral part in a monk's daily life installed as the first hereditary ruler of Bhutan. On a clear day views of the 7326m snow domed peaks of sacred Mt Chomolhari can be seen. On the way back from Drugyel we stop at the famous Tiger's Nest, or Taktsang Monastery, which is perched some 600m up on a cliff overlooking the Paro valley and is said to be the spot where the legendary Indian saint, Guru Padmasambhawa, flew from Tibet on the back of a tiger to defeat five demons who were opposing the spread of . Tragically damaged by fire in 1998, it has now been restored to its former glory. Overnight Paro (B, L, D)

monday 27 March in paro Today we visit a textile weaving centre in Paro. There will also be time for some local walks as well as a visit to , one of Bhutan’s oldest and most beautiful temples. This temple was originally constructed in the 7th century as a geomantic temple and is today one of the most sacred shrines in the kingdom. The orange tree outside is said to bear fruit all year round. Overnight Paro (B, L, D) tuesday 28 March to thimphu After breakfast we take the 90 minute drive to the least- visited of all the Himalayan capitals, Thimphu. The road twists its way gradually up and into the broad Thimphu Valley. The first large monastery fortress we pass in the valley is and like many of these large castles was built by the first ruler of Bhutan, Nawang Namgyal in1629. On arrival we have lunch then take an orientation walk through the bustling township. Overnight Thimphu (B, L, D) wednesday 29 March in thimphu Our day begins with a visit to the , the Monastic and civil centre of Bhutan. The dzong houses the Royal Chamber, the ministries of government and a school for young monks. It is also the summer head quarters of the Je Khempo, Bhutan’s Head Abbot and head of the religious Drukpa Kagyupa school .The original dzong was destroyed by fire in 1772. When the third King of Bhutan, Jigme Dorje Wangchuk made Thimphu his capital, he rebuilt the dzong using traditional methods. This became the seat of government and was completed in 1969. We also visit the Textile Museum, the Heritage Museum and, time permitting, the thangkha painting centre. Overnight Thimphu (B, L, D) thursday 30 March to wangdue After breakfast today we depart on the first part of our journey – the drive to Punakha (approx 3 hours), the old winter capital of the Bhutanese monarchs and clergy. Leaving Thimphu the road climbs via a series of zigzags over the spectacular Dochu La Pass at 3,000m. On a clear day panoramic views can be had of the eastern Himalaya, including Bhutan's highest mountain, Gangkar Punsum (7,550m). The road drops down through varied forests, finally emerging into the highly-cultivated Punakha valley. The main monastery/fortress was the power base for the old system of re-incarnating rulers. The remains of the original ruler of Bhutan, Nawang Namgyal, are kept in a small room at the top of the highest tower and only the king and the head of the monastic order, the Je Khempo, are allowed to enter this room. We have lunch here before continuing on to Wangdue, and visit the great Wangdue Dzong which was devastated by fire in June 2012 but is being lovingly rebuilt. Overnight Wangdue (B, L, D)

Images right: Tashichho Dzong in the North of Thimphu was the site of the formal coronation of the fifth king in 2008; a beautiful woven thangka in the textile museum, Thimphu; it's difficult not to be impressed by the architectural splendour of the Tashichho Dzong friday 31 March to gangtey

Today we drive 2.5 hours to the beautiful Phobjikha Valley, a stunning glacial valley on the western slopes of the Black Mountains. It is also one of the most important wildlife reserves in the country and the seasonal home of the rare black-necked crane, which spends winters in this serene valley. We may also be lucky enough to see muntjaks (barking deer), wild boars, sambars, Himalayan black bears, leopards and red foxes – all native to this region. Gangtey Gompa sits on top of a conical hill in the middle of the valley with the small township nestling at its feet. Overnight Gangtey (B, L, D) saturday 1 april in gangtey Today we visit the Black Crane Information Centre and take a short nature walk in the valley. Then there will be time to simply relax and wander the village and soak up this special time in this exquisite and remote Himalayan valley. Overnight Gangtey (B, L, D) sunday 2 april to punakha Today we will retrace our steps to Punakha where we will have an overnight stay and time to explore the magnificent Dzong. We may also visit the markets at Lobesa and , a monastery built by Lama Drukpa Kunley (also known as the Divine Madman) with a most colourful history, which is a short walk through the paddy fields. Overnight Punakha (B, L, D) monday 3 april return to paro Today we head back to Paro and spend a leisurely evening in this beautiful valley. Overnight Paro (B, L, D) tuesday 4 april At leisure A day free today to wander into Paro town, take a walk along the river and just take time out to soak up the magic of this extraordinary place. For those who wish to try a traditional hot stone bath we can arrange this on this afternoon in Paro. Our last evening in Bhutan will feature some local dancers and musicians who will offer us songs which are centuries old and reflect the rich artistic traditions still very much alive in Bhutan. Overnight Paro (B, L, D) wednesday 5 april departure This morning we transfer to Paro airport for the Druk Air flight to Bangkok, departing mid morning.

Temple Etiquette

Buddhist etiquette dictates that you will need to remove your shoes inside the monasteries but in the main Dzong area you can leave tour shoes on. Always walk to left (clockwise) around prayer flags and chortens and . Never touch a local person on the head and never point the soles of your feet at people or statues and deities in temples.

Hotels Hotels on this tour have been handpicked by Judy Tenzing for their location and charm. Not all are defined by their star rating but instead are chosen for their surroundings and welcoming atmosphere. All are clean and comfortable, many with spectacular views of the surrounding mountains and countryside. The hotels in Wangdue, Punakha and Gangtey are small and family run while the hotel in Paro is of an international standard.

 Bangkok, Novotel Suvarnabhumi Hotel (1 night) www.novotelairportbkk.com

 Paro, Naksel Hotel (5 nights in total) www.naksel.com

 Thimphu, Hotel River View (2 nights) www.riverviewbhutan.com

 Wangdue, Kichu Resort (1 night) no website

 Gangtey, Hotel Dewachen (2 nights) www.dewachenhotel.com Images clockwise top left: Gangtey Gompa is an important monastery of the Nyingmapa school of Buddhism; Punakha Dzong features  Punakha, Hotel Meri Puensum (1 night) whitewashed walls highlighted with elaborately painted gold, red and black www.meripuensum.bt carved wood; Tigers Nest perched precariously on the cliffside of the Upper Paro Valley; masks, colourful costumes and dancing are a highlight of the Paro Tsechu religious festival; black-necked cranes make their annual migration to Bhutan from the Tibetan Plateau * Hotels may be subject to change (to another hotel of equivalent quality). Any changes will be advised to all clients booked on the tour.

Tour Inclusions Fitness Requirements of THIS tour Included in the tour price  11 nights’ accommodation in carefully selected hotels Grade Three  All breakfasts, lunches, and dinners during the tour  1 night pre-tour accommodation at Bangkok airport It is important both for you and for your fellow travellers that  Return international flights from Bangkok to Paro you are fit enough to be able to enjoy all the activities on this  Services of tour leader from arrival in Paro to departure tour. To give you an indication of the level of physical fitness from Paro required to participate on our tours, we have given them a  Services of an English-speaking Bhutanese guide star grading. Academy Travel’s tours tend to feature  Background talks and tour notes extended walking tours and site visits, which require greater  Land travel throughout by air-conditioned coach fitness than coach touring. We ask you to carefully consider  All entrance fees to sites mentioned in itinerary your ability to meet the physical demands of the tour.  All tips to local guides, drivers and restaurants  Porterage of one piece of luggage at all hotels Participation criteria for this tour  Visa costs for Australian passport holders  Tourism development fee in Bhutan This Grade Three tour is among our most physically demanding. To participate on this tour, you should be able to Not included in the tour price comfortably undertake up to seven hours per day, over several days. Activities may include travelling long distances,  International airfares to and from Bangkok walking on difficult terrain, climbing stairs, embarking and  Travel insurance disembarking trains and/or boats, exposure to high altitudes  Expenses of a personal nature, such as laundry, phone and long days of touring. These tours may include one night etc stops and early starts.

You should be able to: Air travel  keep up with the group at all times The tour price quoted is for land content only. For this tour  walk for 5-7 kilometres at a moderate pace with only we recommend Thai Airlines which offers daily flights into short breaks and out of Bangkok from most Australian cities. Druk Air is  stand for a reasonable length of time in galleries and the only airline authorised to fly into and out of Bhutan. museums Please contact us for the best possible prices on economy, business or first class fares. Transfers between airport and  tolerate varying climatic conditions such as humidity and hotel are included for all passengers booking their flights heat through Academy Travel. These may be group or individual  a reasonable level of physical and respiratory fitness transfers.  tolerate a diet that can be significantly different from a typical Australian diet, and where some dietary Enquiries and requirements cannot be met  walk up and down slopes bookings  negotiate steps and slopes on archaeological sites or For further information and to secure a place on this tour mountain paths, which are often uneven and unstable please contact Erin Laffin at Academy Travel on 9235 0023  get on and off a large coach with steep steps, train or or 1800 639 699 (outside Sydney) or email boat unassisted, possibly with luggage [email protected]  move your luggage a short distance if required

Weather on Tour A note for older travellers We regret that we are not able to accept bookings on a March and April is considered the most beautiful time of the Grade Three tour from people more than 80 years old, or year with generally clear weather and all the mountain with restricted mobility. flowers in bloom. Expect temperatures of 10 to 20 degrees on most days. There is a chance of rain while we are in Thimphu but the rest of the country should remain dry at this time of year.