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COSMETICS SPRAY TECHNOLOGY MARKETING

Marketing Exploring new avenues for colour

Markets Concise analysis of the ingredients market and future outlook

Packaging Tube of the Year: Novel applications and closures lead the way

Events Luxe Pack 2015: Inspiring avant-garde solutions on show

VIP of the Month Anne-Kathrin Thom from Leco Instrumente about the challenges in assessing MOAH content

10/2015 Focus: Colour + style www.cossma.com

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Current trends pointing the way

There is no denying the fact that colour cosmetics is a category that does really well. If we take a look at its global development, the sales of this segment have increased from 43.7M USD in 2009 to 56.9M USD in 2014. This constituted a year on year increase of no Care Analyst at Euromonitor International, it was Tom Ford’s less than 30 per cent. Yet even more impressive were Christmas launch of 50 pocket size that initiated this the year on year growth figures in Latin America with trend. For the summer holidays, colour cosmetics brands 87.3 per cent and in the Middle East and Africa with looked at ways to capitalise on the idea of smaller packaging 83.9 per cent. in beauty with e.g. YSL Pur Couture Travel Selection and thus tapped into the recent growth in sales. Lipsticks grew by 8 per cent in 2014, outpacing the total col- Downloads our cosmetics industry, which grew by 6 per cent. Lip care Additional information can be found also emerged as a fast-growing category, with an increase of at www.cossma.com/qr00001 or you can just scan the QR code! 5 per cent in 2014, on the back of the success of beauty Your access codes for October: bloggers’ favourite , EON. User name: cossma10 Password: style While new launches of smaller packaging suitable for travel have mainly been centred on the fast-growing lipstick cate- PS: Our QR codes and our tablet compatible e-paper will take you directly to TV-clips, downlowads, book tips gory, it has been filtering into other colour cosmetics catego- and more ries as well, such as OPI’s Travel Sets. One brand is even using smaller packaging as its key differentiating While the sales of lip products increased by 27.4 per factor. The beauty products created by Stowaway Cosmet- cent in this time period, the growth was less pro- ics are portable, convenient and reasonably priced. The nounced in Europe. Here the sales figures only grew by brand claims that the smaller packaging prevents product 4.5 per cent to 13.6M USD. waste, as consumers will not have more than they can use But this growth rate for a market as saturated as Europe before its expiry date. is still quite noteworthy indeed. If we look at the most There are many facets to the fascinating world of colour cos- recent developments in Germany, colour cosmetics metics – and quite a few of these are covered in this issue to continued its success story in the first half of 2015 and inspire you and create tomorrow’s trail-blazing products. with a sales increase of 5 per cent; this was the segment with the highest growth. According to Sabine Hefter, Di- Sincerely yours rector Premium Cosmetics from Information Resourc- es, consumers were particularly keen on spending their Angelika Meiss money on lipsticks and foundations. In the field of mas- Senior editor, COSSMA cara it was not only new developments that met their PS: Our QR codes and our tablet compatible e-paper will take you directly to TV clips, interest but also established products proved popular. downloads, book tips and more In contrast to this, sales of nail polish in perfumeries de- creased – for the second time. After the cost-effective small nail polish bottle trend in Follow us on: 2014, no new developments were launched which

spurred consumer interest to indulge in nail polish. www.linkedin.com/in/cossma www.twitter.com/cossmagazine On a more global level, small packaging is on the rise in general and even more so in the field of colour cosmet- www.facebook.com/cossmamagazin www.youtube.de/cossmatv ics. According to Nicole Tyrimou, Beauty and Personal

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COS1510_003Editorial.indd 3 24.09.15 09:13 Contents 3 Editorial 6 Download List

NEWS 8 Markets + Profiles

FOCUS Colour + style 10 Xenia Petsitis and Angela Carmen Traut, Merck: Striking effects in cosmetic applications – Sparkle up 14 Valerie Pian, BASF: Preview of ‘Alive’ – Colour trend 14 Preview of colour inspired by nature’s jazzy hues trends for 2017 18 Emmanuelle Moeglin, Mintel: International launches 20 Gabrielle Moro, Codif Recherche et Nature: Corneosticker DS – The new soft focus generation 22 MakeUp in New York 2015: The latest fashion in colour cosmetics

MARKETING 30 Nikola Matic, Kline: Personal care ingredients – Trends driving the market 30 32 Mei Gräfe, Intergate Consulting: Online business for Personal consumer goods – Digital China care ingre- 34 Clariant’s Sustainability Dialog: Can sustainability dients with a drive innovation? most prom- 37 Star of the Month: Liquid compact – Make-up at the push of a button ising future PRODUCTION 38 62nd SEPAWA Congress: Cosmetics-oriented preview showcase 42 Anne-Kathrin Thom, Leco Instrumente: Lipcare products – Determination of MOSH and MOAH 44 New Ingredients 46 Luxe Pack Monaco 2015: Inspiring avant-garde solutions 32 Online sales 50 New Packaging + Equipment platforms in China 52 Tube of the Year 2015: with tremendous Novel applications and closures lead the way potential SERVICES 54 Essential Oils: Price list 56 Formulations: Body care 59 Events Diary 60 Suppliers‘ Guide 64 International B2B Exchange 65 Advertisers‘ Index 42 65 Masthead Page Challenges in 66 Preview assessing 66 Trend statement by Stephan Schmied,

the MOAH Leading articles content Front cover picture: Kubais, Shutterstock.com

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MakeUp in New York 2015 The latest fashion in colour cosmetics

Take a closer look at what was on show at MakeUp in New York from September 9–11 and get to know the innovative products selected for the Inno- vations Trees presented in New York and also at the show in Paris in June.

Two make-up palettes in one case to be opened

from the front or the back York New in MakeUp Paris, in MakeUp photos:

eka, who will soon be produc- red. It is encased in the new stock lip cators allow users to change applica- ing standard packs in the US, gloss packaging. tor, as tips can be changed by just ro- Gpresented the American-Style www.geka-world.com tating the tool between two fingers. Set, which comprises three mascara The new beauty buzz all over the Galaxy, the company’s new mascara brushes, a lip gloss applicator, and a world has become: how to comb, shape family developed in the Tips Studio, comb for brows combined with formu- and coat eyebrows. Albéa introduced a has multifunctional fibre brushes in fu- lations. The helix-shaped CatwalkLash- selection of eyebrow shaping solu- turistic design. These brushes com- es 1K-brush which combines bristles tions: Magnify & Prettify Brushes and bine two technologies of the company: and discs provides an open surface the Eyebrow Designing Kit, all devel- Multi-Zones consists in using different for formula while catching every lash. oped by the company’s Tips Studio Pro- fibres and creating separate zones on MissCurl has a finely curved mould- gram*. Magnify is a smart and ergo- the brush, and Da Vinci cuts and over- ed brush which lifts lashes into an up- nomic two-faced nano brush which, twists the brush for a special effect. The ward curve. Due to the creamy textured due to its miniature size, offers a very duo shape brush Eclipse was inspired bulk, application is easy. The Smooth- precise gesture. Its two different sides by the solar eclipse. The sequence of Styler brush is paired with an intense allow two uses: The flat side with stiff zones catches lashes and coats them jet-black formula. The brush combines short bristles is good for coating, and from root to tip. The brush Stellar can the company’s Hypno-cut technology the butterfly-shaped side is suitable be used for all types of formulas in- for optimal mascara distribution and for extra combing and brow design. cluding waterproof. The brush Aurora the Sepa technology for lash separa- The fibre mix of the nano brush Prettify, with its comb fan design inspired by tion as well as the new 2-component which is for shaping brows, is an extra the Aurora Borealis provides separa- Sensitive Fiber for an extending effect mini brush with a thin tip, creating full- tion at lash tips. for volume. The wedge-shaped fibres er brows but also permitting a pol- www.albea-group.com prevent the bulk from clumping. The ished, well-groomed brow look. The autumn novelties of Faber-Cas- easy to use brow tamer MiniPerfector The company’s Eyebrow Designing tell Cosmetics include: Crème Lips is a with its 1K-applicator combs and de- Kit features the Trilogy compact and a mini chubby lipstick with propel-repel fines brows with one stroke, while the 3-in-1 numbered applicator, designed mechanism. This hydrating lipstick clear gel which can easily be dosed as a make-up lesson for brows with a with shea and mango butter has a keeps them in place all day. GentleLips step-by-step guide to applying the semi-matte finish. Velvet Delight, a pig- has a very smooth flocked 2K-applica- right colour in the right place with the ment-rich lipstick lasts for 6 hours. The tor and a saturated matte formula in right applicator. The ergonomic appli- non-feathering and transfer-proof for-

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The first mascara decorated with a Skinsleeve The viscosity and the choice of raw materials was adapted to the special packaging

Provides a specially calibrated New mascara dose of powder by turning the jar family with multifunc- tional fibre brushes in futuristic design

Helix-shaped 1K brush combines bristles and discs and provides

an open surface for formula Geka photo:

mula is enriched with emollients, film the show MakeUp in New York from hand first. Thus no product is wasted forming polymers and a mattifying and September 9–11. The 26 products fea- or contaminated by bacteria. cushioning agent. The shiny lipstick tured on this tree were selected by a Taiki’s Flex Applicators are flexible Lip Sorbet with an illuminating silver professional jury** as the most inno- applicators made of TPE. In contrast to shimmer is enriched with plumping in- vative in the categories Formulation, the standard nylon flexor, they provide gredients such as Maxi Lip, cool mint Packaging, Full Service and Accesso- a very flexible and durable application. for a fresh feeling and hot ginger for ries from the 62 product entries in to- With a mitt they are suitable for make- flushed lips. Brow Tint, also suitable tal. up uses, and without for pinpoint skin- for men, has a slanted tip to sculpt and These were the winning products in care applications. fill in with lasting water-based tint to the category Accessories: These are the winners of the catego- create a natural, refined brow styling. Lock In Your Look Retractable from ry Full Service: www.fc-cosmetics.com Anisa International is a retractable Eyebrow Gel Volume from ABC Tex- Sleever International developed a brush which is adjustable on 3 differ- ture is a formulation enriched in fibre. laser-focused market application: ent levels and thus a multi-purpose With the 30° angled brush, the product SleeverMakeUp. It is supported by ex- brush for several types of coverage. can be applied very accurately. clusive inks to achieve a perfect colour HCT’s 2-in-1 brush Double Down Fusion des Teintes from Aircos match and give access to a wide range Brush Set for can be assem- turns colour into a masterpiece with of special print effects for premium bled into a double-ended brush by re- the help of a random injection, which products: metallics, silver, gold, irides- moving the larger brush head and at- creates a design at lower cost as it does cent and matte varnishes. The sensori- taching it to the handle of the smaller not require specific equipment. al world of 3D with the Skinsleeve pro- brush. The smaller brush head is thus Liquid Like Gel Sensation EL from vides a design finish which imitates protected and kept clean for eye area Alkos Group is a gliding gel texture textured material effects such as skin, contact. which combines the precision of a wood, metal, stone and fabric. The Livcer’s Fill’N’Go allows four shades liquid liner with the easy applica- Scandeleyes line from is the of lipstick or eyeshadow to be sampled tion and the professional result of a first mascara decorated with a Skin- in an extra thin format. pencil. sleever. New Eyeliners and Nail Cares Pennellifaro’s Tip and Blend Brush Art of Contouring from Faber-Castell by Sephora is a limited edition de- Collection has been developed by stud- Cosmetics is a natural face lift in 3 signed by Craig and Karl. ying how foundations are applied. It steps in a modern twist pack. www.sleever.com has a rounded shape with a central tip The Dewy Light Eye Serum from in relief and is made from dermatolog- Mascara Plus reduces the appearance Innovative products at ically tested and registered synthetic of fine lines and wrinkles. MakeUp in New York hair. Due to its shape, a small amount Cushion Liner from Pascual Cosme- The Innovation Tree is a feature of liquid or cream can be tiques, another derivative of the ‘cush- first introduced in Seoul and after that poured straight onto the tip without ion’ trend, is a fluid eyeliner captured in Paris, and which has premiered at having to put it on the back of your in a foam. This product also featured

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photo: Faber-Castell Cosmetics A fluid eyeliner – an- other derivative of the ‘cushion’ trend

Brow Tint, also suitable for men, has a slanted tip to create a natural brow styling

Due to its shape, a small amount of product can be poured straight onto the tip

Eyebrow gel applied with the 30° angled brush photos: Albéa photos: Eyebrow shaping solutions: 2 brushes and Eyebrow

Designing Kit Albéa photo: photos: MakeUp in Paris, MakeUp in New York New in MakeUp Paris, in MakeUp photos:

on the Innovation Tree presented at pouch and has a restitution rate of is lightly coloured but not glossy and MakeUp in Paris. more than 95%. gives a natural look to nails. Taiki’s Triangle Shaped Eyebrow The Powder Lifter and Eye Lifter Matistick from Strand Cosmetics is Pencil ensures precise application with from Roberts Cosmetics provides a a matte lipstick with long-lasting prop- its bevelled mine and adjustable specially calibrated dose of powder. To erties. brush. The aluminium components activate it, the jar is turned upside make the pencil luxurious. Anodising once and returned to normal position Innovation Tree Winners at in order to match the aluminium com- before the lid is opened. MakeUp in Paris ponents in target colour of the pencil These were the winners in the cate- For the 22nd Innovation Tree Prod- – in particular matching the gun metal gory Formulation: ucts presented on the occasion of the or brownish colour – was a challenge. BASF’s water-based Gilded Forest MakeUp in Paris show in June this year, These were the winners in the Pack- Green Watercolor Eyeshadow that 34 exhibiting companies joined the aging Category: dries to an ultra-soft finish. contest with a total of 73 products. The closure system of Albéa’s At- The natural Aqua Power Foundation These were the winners in the cate- traction protects the compact form and by Pascual Cosmetiques resembles a gory Formulation: makes handling more comfortable. ‘water foundation’. It covers the face The long-lasting texture of the What is innovative about this solution with freshness and gives it a pow- Matte Lipstick from ABC Texture’s en- with a reduced weight is the fully plas- der-like comfortable effect. riched with vitamin E and F feels like a tic, pinless hinge and that there is no Wax’up by Strand Cosmetics cre- second skin. As it has no volatile sili- need for neodymium magnets to close ates a new gesture when removing cone it does not require a sealed pack. the compact. long-lasting make-up. The texture of BASF’s Luminous EFA Packaging Industrial is an ex- ICC’s Liquid Metal Coloured is a very Skin Serum To Oil transforms from a pert in vacuum metallisation with UV fast drying nail polish with a metallic ef- light serum to a rich oil, and is suitable varnish. Their Blue & Love Story Pow- fect which dries in less than 60 seconds. for massage, beauty rituals or as a drop ders were selected due to the quality of The silky texture of the water-resist- on specific zones. The highly transpar- their decoration ant Luminous from CSR ent gold effect pigment, a new synthet- Fusion Packaging’s Curved Tip & Cosmetic Solutions is applied with a fin- ic substrate, leaves a natural glow Single Rollerball Airless Direct Applica- ger or a brush and has a metallic finish. on the skin. tors accurately dose products. The Cream To Powder Blush from The formulation of Bonne’s long-last- Jih Hsin Glass developed a special Pascual Cosmetiques changes into ing rich Watercolour Tint with vibrant acid etching for glass, creating a unique powder on the cheeks. shiny colours has a water-containing pattern on a glass surface. The pattern ICC’s BB Cream for men is a nail formula which provides a synergy be- embedded on the glass will not come product for men to reactivate the nail tween oil content and low viscosity. off. barrier and protect nails from breakage Coson’s skin-protecting Marbling Lumson’s APP Green PE made of an and from flaking due to dehydration Pack also protects from the sun. It cov- eco-friendly material derived from sug- caused by the nails’ exposure to sol- ers up the skin and adheres close to arcane is an airless system with a vents and surfactants. The special base the skin.

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COS1510_022_MUP.indd 26 23.09.15 15:16 FOCUS: COLOUR + STYLE EVENTS - photos: MakeUp in Paris, Make Paris, in MakeUp photos: York New in Up Wax creates new gesture when The cushion protects the formulation, its fluidity removing long-lasting make-up and the freshness effect during application

A jelly eye shadow with a gum-like network structure

Lightweight texture gives the sensation of an elastic jelly and a silky powder

Water in the formulation of Aqua case, the system can be opened from fume. The viscosity and the particular Lip Balmy Colour from Mascara leaves the front or the back. choice of raw materials were first select- a sensation of hydration once applied. PPB: Petite Boite à Beauté from ed as they had to be adapted to the sug- Enriched with oils with a high refrac- MKTG Industry is a new collection of gested pack. The clean applicator doses tion, it results in a film with a brilliant compact cases and palettes by Italian the product which protects the formula- effect. Once the water evaporates, the designers. tion. The system operates in all posi- product stays on the lips with an emol- Oekabeauty’s Beauty Stylist appli- tions, regardless of the degree of filling. lient feeling. cator with its unique shape was devel- These were the winners in the cate- Coson’s chewy Jelly Shadow is an oped with the international make-up gory of Accessories: eye tint with a gum-like network struc- artist Max Herlant. This multi-benefit Lancôme’s Triangle Zone Brush cre- ture and crystal pearls. cosmetic make-up tool creates thin or ated by Cosmogen is a brush stick The Mattifying Stick from S & J Inter- thick lines. developed specifically for the fluid national with its lightweight formula- The bulb of the Virospack dropper foundation Lancôme Blanc Expert. The tion contains a new silicone powder. can be produced in different materials length of the brush is adjustable ac- The new lightweight texture of the to either serve compatibility or aes- cording to the desired coverage: short high shine Elastic Eyeshadow from thetics requirements. In injection the for high coverage and to erase and cover S & J International gives the sensation mould determines the finish of these, imperfections, and long for light cover of an elastic jelly and a silky powder. whereas in the spraying process there and stretching the material on the face. The long-lasting formulation of the is no limit on the finish. Taiki’s Style Brush Collection with Cooling Stick Blusher from S & J Inter- These products were the winners in synthetic CosmeFibre is an alternative national refreshingly melts into the the category Full Service: to conventional brushes. The angular skin. It can be easily mixed with a for- The waterproof eyeshadow Jumbo brush head position facilitates a more er- mulation comprising a high moisture Twist with its creamy texture and in- gonomic application of powders, liquids ingredient. tense colour from Alkos in an airtight or emollient-based products while the These were the winners in the cate- packaging has a pen-like tip and lasts balanced handle provides control. gory Packaging: up to 15 hours. Jelly Collection from LF Beauty pro- Due to the new film lamination, the Bomo Trendline’s Permanent Eyelin- vides a 3D effect by superimposition of haptics of Nars Lipstick from Homer ers have a thin applicator for precise textiles. AM Colour Printing correspond to the prod- application. UltraBlack has a water- * The Albéa Tips Studio is a programme which brings uct inside. proof, paraben-free and FDA-approved together all the company’s applicator know-how in fibre and plastic mascara brushes, gloss applicators, eyeliner Easy Cushion from Easy Powder pro- formulation with shea butter, and the and other beauty tips, and develops and produces appli- cator solutions. tects the formulation, its fluidity and Waterproof one in carbon black pro- the freshness effect during application. vides a shiny result. ** Florence Bernardin, Founder of the market research agency Information & Inspiration, Hélène Capgras, Reverso 3 from LF Beauty holds two Rouge Passion Baume Passion from Manager of Brain for Beauty for the Martine Leherpeur Conseil, Charles-Emmanuel Gounod, Founder and Man- make-up palettes in one case, e.g. one Orléans Cosmetics is a range of lipsticks ager of Beautyworld Connections, Jean-Louis Matthiez, Founder and Manager of Cinqpats, Luisa Oliva, Inter- for day and one for night colours. De- and coloured balms focusing national Consultant with expertise in formulation, Serge German, Director of the Ecole Supérieure Européenne pending on the selected side of the on two active ingredients and a per- de Packaging (ESEPAC).

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