HIKE PLETT VLAGGIE

BREATHE DEEP (clockwise from top left). On Robberg, you can take a short cut across a sandbar that connects the main peninsula with an offshoot called The Island. It’s a steep climb to Forest Hall, where lunch awaited on the first day. Keep your eyes on the canopy and listen for the oep-oep-oep, korr-korr-korr call of a turaco. Luck’z Mdzeke, one of the guides, looks out over from Robberg. Tapas at Bramon is more than welcome after a full day’s hiking. Our first day on the Plett Trail started on the beach at , east of Plett. Hardy Loubser, another guide, kicks off his vellies on the Circles in the Forest trail in the Diepwalle section of the Knysna Forest.

COME HIKE ALONG! Hike the Garden of Eden There’s hardly a more beautiful place in than Plettenberg Bay. Come and explore the indigenous forests and dramatic coastline on a new go! slackpacking trail.

WORDS PIERRE STEYN PICTURES RONEL STEYN

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he area around Plett has always been a bottom, followed by black mussels and limpets, along beaches, cliffs, through fields of fynbos one of the oldest and grandest historical estates FOREST VILLAGE (top right). Nature’s hiker’s paradise. Okay, always is forever with brown mussels on top. and forests, and even across a river or two. in the region. A picnic lunch is waiting for us, Valley is the end point of the first day’s and that’s a long, long time. But it is Scarcely an hour ago I was in the hustle and Sarah checks if we’ve lathered ourselves with courtesy of Grahame Thomson and his sister hike. Before you descend to the beach, true that some of the first people to bustle of modern Plett, enjoying a cappuccino enough sunblock and that we have water in our Julie Carlisle, the owners of Venture Beyond. you’ll want to pause for a while and walkT the earth, some 160 000 years ago, did so and a croissant. Now I’m looking at a place that daypacks. Taking a nap after a self-induced food coma take a few photos of the view. around here. hasn’t changed much since the Stone Age! It’s It’s a balmy, windless autumn day. The blue sounds like a great idea, but we’ve still got a full I’m at the Matjes River rock shelter, a this unique combination of modern conve- ocean is on my right and lush green cliffs reach afternoon of walking ahead – through a coastal BAHIA FORMOSA (below right). It’s easy 30-minute walk east of the main beach at nience and natural beauty that really sets this for the sky on my left. Ahead, there’s a long forest section of the Garden Route National to see why early Portuguese explorers Keurboomstrand, and I’m looking at an ancient trail apart. white beach unblemished by footprints. This Park. We also have to cross the Salt River before called this the “beautiful bay”. rubbish heap that contains thousands of years I’m hiking with a company called Venture doesn’t feel like work! the tide comes in. of history. It’s a midden, a place where the Beyond. A year ago, they worked with Pletten- We reach the mouth of the Matjes River Still, the temptation is huge to just unpack strandlopers and their ancestors deposited food berg Bay Tourism to create the Plett Trail. The and Sarah shows us the tracks of a Cape claw- at one of the many scenic viewpoints and spend scraps like shells and bones from small animals idea was to mix and match various existing less otter that must have crossed the river just the afternoon daydreaming. Instead, Ronel and and fish, as well as ash, shards of pottery and hiking trails – along the coast and in the for- ahead of us. Not too far away, African black I take lots of photographs and we make it to bits of tools. est – and create a number of multi-day hiking oystercatchers scurry around the intertidal zone, the Salt River with the water no higher than FRESH AIR (top left). This cliff path Today, this rubbish heap is 30m long, 15m packages. An expert guide would be included in searching for food. These once-threatened birds our ankles. We climb the last hill of the day awaits once you’ve walked east along wide and 10m deep, and archaeologists read it the package, along with comfortable accom- with their blood-red beaks and legs are abun- and reward ourselves with a spectacular view of the beach from Keurbooms and like a suspense thriller. The layers at the bottom modation, delicious food, wine tasting and even dant here: a good indication that the ecosys- Nature’s Valley, where the minibus is waiting to crossed the Matjes River. It’s just past tell of a time when you wouldn’t have been able horse riding or paddling. I’m here on a recce to tem is still healthy. Sarah tells us that once an take us to our accommodation for the night. the famous Arch Rock formation. to see the sea from Matjes River. The coastline test a slackpacking route designed specifically oystercatcher has taken a mate, there’s no such was roughly 100km to the south, until about for go! readers. thing as divorce or fooling around. They mate Bright and early the next morning, guide VIEWS FOR AFRICA (bottom left). Take 14 000 years ago when the Ice Age blew out its for life. Luck’z Mdzeke arrives to take us to Robberg. a welcome breather and admire the last freezing breath. Ocean levels started to rise The walk on the first day starts at 9am in After about an hour’s easy walking along the The whole of the Robberg Peninsula is a nature view before you wade through the and the original cross-country hikers became the parking area at Keurbooms. The Venture beach, we head inland through a milkwood for- reserve, with three circular trails of escalating Salt River, preferably at low tide. The beachcombers who feasted on mussels. You Beyond minibus drops us off with our guide for est and up a hill covered in fynbos. Then we’re difficulty and distance. hill on the other side was the final can see how their diet changed in the different the day, Sarah Hearn. The plan is to hike about in the shade of yellowwoods, ironwoods and Our plan is to hike the longest trail, which climb on day one. layers of the midden: white sand mussels at the 14km from Keurbooms to Nature’s Valley, stinkwood trees. Our destination is Forest Hall, will take us right to the end of the peninsula,

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around The Point. Luck’z says that it’s about migrate east. Who knows, by 2050 Graham- 8km and should take about five hours. He also stown might have replaced Stellenbosch as the tells us that Plett’s beaches have been closed to epicentre of the South African wine industry! swimmers and surfers for a few days because of all the great white sharks that have been In this neck of the woods, you’re spoiled for spotted in the area. If we’re lucky, we might see choice when it comes to good eating and drink- HIKE WITH • a great white – or even a killer whale – hunting ing. The next day, after we’ve done the Circles in • Cape fur seals in the aquamarine water below the Forest trail in the Diepwalle section of the the cliffs. Knysna Forest with Meagan Vermaas – the of- We’re not that fortunate, but we do see a ficial Dalene Matthee guide – we stop at Totties massive elephant seal bobbing around like a fat Farm Kitchen in Rheenendal for their legendary submarine. He’s far from home – maybe his Sunday buffet lunch. Even though today’s route GPS malfunctioned… was flat and no longer than 4km, it still took Robberg might only be a caracal leap away us more than three hours and we’ve worked up from downtown Plett, but it’s a wild, isolated an appetite. It’s Meagan’s fault: Her encyclo- MORE THAN A HIKE (clockwise from place with views that often slam you to a halt. paedic knowledge of Matthee’s books, and her top left). There’s more to the Plett Trail Luck’z is a fountain of knowledge and tells us all stories about the elephants, giant yellowwoods, than putting one foot in front of the about the shipwrecks, the geology, the vegeta- woodcutters and gold miners, could have kept How does it work? other. If you want, you can include a tion, animals and birds of the region. us spellbound for days. This is slackpacking at its best over four days paddling outing on the Keurbooms We finish our hike around midday and re- As I sip a craft beer and work my way and four nights in the company of expert Camp with us Stay in a lodge Day 1 We gather at the Diepwalle camping site Day 1 We meet at our hotel late in the River or a tasty meal (and craft beer) at ward ourselves with a decadent lunch and wine through a heaped plate of comfort food, I think guides. The hiking groups are small - no late in the afternoon, and enjoy supper around afternoon, and enjoy supper in the restaurant. Totties in Rheenendal. Along the way, tasting at Bramon, the original Plett wine estate. about all I’ve experienced over the past few days. more than 14 people in a group. Just bring the campfire. your guides will tell you fascinating It’s best known for its sparkling wines and has It’s one thing to chart your own course in a your hiking shoes, walking stick, camera, Day 2 Our minibus takes us to Nature’s Valley, stories about a variety of subjects, won an array of awards. beautiful place like Plett, but it’s another thing binoculars and a daypack - we’ll see to your Day 2 Meagan Vermaas guides us on the and we hike to Keurbooms beach. We’ll stop like the archaeological history of the Peter Thorpe and his wife Caroline bought to experience it with passionate guides like Sar- accommodation, all your meals, your entrance “Circles in the Forest” trail, we enjoy lunch at for lunch at Forest Hall. region and how the giant yellowwoods the farm in 2000. Peter tells us how the land ah, Luck’z and Meagan. How else would I have fees to the nature reserves and your transport Totties in Rheenendal and take a afternoon around Diepwalle inspired the writer was being strangled by invasive plants, which learnt that the bidup-bidup-bidup sound in the from one route to the next. We’ll also pick you walk through the Diepwalle forest. Day 3 We spend today hiking through coastal Dalene Matthee. Plett even has its own they painstakingly cleared to plant vines. Their bush is the call of a green-backed camaroptera, up and drop you off at the Plettenberg Bay forest and on the beach on the beautiful wine route, where a farm like Bramon first harvest was in 2004 and they set the trend: if Meagan hadn’t carefully parted the leaves to airport if you arrive by plane. Cem Air offers Day 3 Today we hike from Nature’s Valley to trail between Plettenberg Bay and has taken the lead with its Méthode Today there are more than 20 wine estates in show me his hideout? direct flights daily to Plettenberg Bay from Keurbooms beach. We stop halfway for lunch Knysna. Cap Classique sparkling wines. the region, as the Cape Winelands gradually Yes, the new Plett Trail will definitely see me Cape Town & Johannesburg. at Forest Hall. In the meantime our camp has There is a glamping option or you can transferred to Keurbooms River. Day 4 Today we walk the “Circles in the Forest” choose to stay in a lodge. If you camp with us, route with Meagan Vermaas, we lunch and it will cost R8 950 p.p. sharing (the cost for an Day 4 It’s another full day’s hiking in coastal taste wine at Bramon and we end the day with individual is R11 635). We provide luxury tents, forests and on the beach on the beautiful a sunset cruise on the Keurbooms River. beds, linen and towels, and there are ablution Kranshoek trail just west of Plettenberg Bay. facilities at the campsites. We’ll set up camp in Day 5 It’s our last day of hiking, where we the Diepwalle forest for two nights, and camp Day 5 The Robberg peninsula is on the menu explore the Robberg peninsula in the morning. next to the Keurbooms River for two nights. today, as well as a last picnic lunch before we We’ll enjoy a picnic lunch, and then it’s time to The lodge option costs R10 950 p.p. sharing say goodbye. * say goodbye. * (there is a supplement of 30% extra for individuals) and you’ll stay in selected three Dates 27-31 October 2017; 24-28 November Dates 20-24 October 2017; 17-21 November and four star graded country lodges in the 2017; 2-6 March 2018 2017; 16-20 March 2018 Plettenberg Bay and Crags areas.

* The price includes accommodation for the five day trail, all meals, transfers, professional guides, picnic lunches, airport collections and conservation fees The program can be adapted on the last day if you rather want to go horse riding or rowing, but it will cost extra.

BOOK Book your spot - call Venture Beyond at 044 533 0882; [email protected] 98 September 2017 NOW! Go to venturebeyond.co.za for more information September 2017 99