STORIES FROM THE ROAD THIS YEAR COOPERATIVE LIVING IS TAKING A

ROAD TRIP ALONG THE LENGTH OF ROUTE 11 AS

IT CROSSES FROM NORTH TO SOUTH.

EACH ISSUE, CORRESPONDENT DEBORAH HUSO

WILL RELATE HER EXPERIENCES ALONG THE WAY.

Story and photos by Deborah Huso, Contributing Writer

Bikes, Burgers, and Barter Find fun bicycling for the family, great eats, and historic small towns along Route 11 through the and beyond.

s I head south on sandwich on ciabatta and Route 11 out of indulge in a dessert of ASalem and into decadent cupcakes with Christiansburg, I find my cream cheese frosting. journey converging with The indulgence is okay that of Norfolk Southern’s today because when I rail line, which parallels reach the small mountain this highway along much town of Pulaski, I’m going of its length through the to hit the New River Trail Shenandoah, Roanoke and on a bike. New River Trail New River valleys. In fact, State Park is actually a lin - in downtown Radford, the ear park that offers 57 track is right next to the miles of bicycle trail on an road, reminding me of the old railroad right-of-way. critical transportation Two-thirds of the trail par - A scene in downtown Abingdon, a town described as “wonderfully routes this area of Virginia allels the New River, and romantic” that’s home to the Barter Theater and the head of the provides for both truck and it’s a great ride for families, Virginia Creeper Trail. rail transport, linking the being mostly level. agricultural riches of the region with the rest of the world. I stop at Pulaski Bikes to rent a ride. Located in the town’s old train depot directly adjacent to the Dora Trail, BIKING THE NEW which ties into the New River Trail, it’s a tiny shop and I take a break from my travels in Christiansburg to owner Mike McMillan’s first. He’s been here three years, browse the treasures of Antiques on Main with its wide selling, repairing, and renting bicycles. A native of West array of dealers and some very fine mahogany antique fur - Virginia’s Canaan Valley, he was living in the Washington, niture pieces. Next door is the unassuming Mockingbird D.C., region before relocating to Pulaski. Bakery & Café. Its simple décor and tiny dining area belie As I browse the shop, a regular customer comes in, just how popular this place is with the locals, who filter in and McMillan quips, “Need a pedal wrench? You can and out for midday lunch runs as I eat a divine caprese open beer with it, too!”

30 Cooperative Living/November-December 2014 McMillan says he recommends the six-mile ride to Draper and back from his front door as a good hour loop for families, so that’s the one I take. It’s not the level of chal - lenge that serious mountain bikers like McMillan seek, however. He has mountain-biked his whole life and hands me a map of circuitous and steep trails up and down Draper Mountain. With names like McTwist and the Draper Drop, the trails look intimidating to an ama - teur like myself. “Outside of town limits,” McMillan says, “you can climb 6,000 feet in trails, and you can also do a vertical mile right here in Pulaski, as the town owns the side of Draper Mountain.” With a laugh, he adds, “Bikers use that as a spring gut check!” McMillan’s passion for biking has brought an increase in tourism to Pulaski. “When I first moved here and asked locals where the Dora trail was, they didn’t know!” he remarks. But his rental and shuttle service has changed all that, though he says most of his business Antiques on Main’s rustic exteri - is still in sales. or (top left) is a magnet for antique aficionados. Inside the A LANDMARK TOWN business (top right), antique Biking isn’t a passion of mine, seekers will be pleased with a but it is an interest, so I’m excited fine array of pieces. Mike to experience yet another old rail - McMillan (above) is a good road right-of-way trail further along source of information for bicy - my southward journey on Route 11 clists who want to tour the area, to Abingdon, home to the head of and cyclists can rent a bike at the Virginia Creeper Trail, a more his Pulaski Bikes (above right). challenging 34-mile trail, which Creeper’s End Lodging (right) is runs into the village of Damascus, a favorite of visitors to Barter along the Whitetop Laurel River, all Theatre and the Virginia Creeper the way to its highest point at Trail. Barter Theatre (below) is Whitetop Station. an Abingdon landmark. The trail ranks as one of my favorite leisurely rides in no small part because of its beginnings in the charming historic town of Abingdon. “This town has so much history,” says Jill Dalton, owner of Creeper’s End Lodging, where I spend the night in a private cottage with fireplace only a few hundred feet away from the trail’s northern terminus. Dalton knows Abingdon well. Her mother was once mayor of the town, and her brother is on the city council.

November-December 2014/www.co-opliving.com 31 Good Eats in Bristol M O

Route 11 in Virginia terminates at Bristol, home of the “World’s Fastest C . L

Half Mile” at the Bristol Motor Speedway (151 Speedway Boulevard, O O H C

423-989-6933, www.bristolmotorspeedway.com), which is actually on the S G N

Tennessee side of the city. Legends like Richard Petty and Dale Earnhardt I C A

have raced here, and so can you with a speedway drag tour. R E M I

Whether or not you choose to make the speedway part of your explo - T T A E

ration, at least take in some good eats while in Bristol, including retro ham - S . W

burgers and fries (served by poodle-skirt-wearing waitresses) at the famous W W Burger Bar (8 Piedmont Ave., 276-466-6200, www.burgerbarbristol.com), Bristol Motor Speedway is a NASCAR favorite. located on State Street, where Virginia is on one side and Tennessee on the other. Reportedly, this is also where Hank Williams ate his last meal before dying on Jan. 1, 1953, after extensive abuse of alcohol and morphine. You can also build your own pizza at the Mellow Mushroom (3500 Lee Highway, 276-644-3663, www.mellowmushroom.com) right on Route 11. Choose among bases like garlic and olive oil, pesto, and red sauce, and then choose your own cheese and toppings, too. Tofu on pizza, anyone? The Amazing Journey The Mellow Mushroom is one of many fine Bristol of Mary Draper Ingles eateries. While you’re traveling Route 11 through the New River Valley region, be sure to stop at the Draper’s Valley Overlook just south of Pulaski. Here is a historic marker chronicling the capture and amazing escape of Mary Draper Ingles, the subject of Follow the River, a novel by James Alexander Thom. In 1755, this early pioneer on the Virginia frontier, along with her two sons and sister-in-law Bettie Robertson Draper, was captured by during the . After two-and-a-half months of captivity, Ingles escaped the Shawnee, going on a nearly 600-mile jour - ney through the frontier to return to her home near present-day Blacksburg. Draper’s Valley Overlook The Shawnee adopted her sons, and she never saw them again. n and trail beckon the adventurous.

Dalton started renting cottages to Owner Jack Barrow opened 128 Pecan three weekenders three years ago and, years ago. The small, unassuming restaurant on unsurprisingly, says a lot of her busi - an Abingdon side street offers serendipitously ness is made up of cyclists. “The superb cuisine. Creeper Trail and the Barter Theatre before my entrée even are the biggest draws here,” she notes. arrives when my Caesar Opened in 1933, the Barter Theatre dinner salad sparks my on Main Street (Route 11) is one of tongue with the best the longest-running professional the - housemade dressing I can aters in the country and was started by ever remember tasting. Robert Porterfield in an effort to pro - dining room, but the Lester has been work - vide a living of some kind to starving food is superb. Owner ing with Barrow for more actors. Patrons could pay with produce Jack Barrow opened than 16 years and calls to attend shows (hence its name!). the restaurant three her hometown of Alums of the theater include (believe years ago, but he’s Abingdon “a wonderfully it or not!) Gregory Peck, Ernest been in the restaurant business for three romantic place.” As she pours me a Borgnine, and Kevin Spacey. decades. Elva Lester, my loquacious glass of Riesling, she remarks, “Route For dinner, Dalton sends me for a waitress, encourages me to order the 11 passes right through downtown, quick walk up the street to 128 Pecan. house favorite: chicken Florentine and Norfolk Southern track runs right An unassuming restaurant on one of served over mashed potatoes and along it here. The train rumbles Abingdon’s side streets, 128 Pecan has drenched in goat cheese and dressing. through town at night, and I love the a tiny, one might even say cramped, But the food starts delighting my palate sound.” n

32 Cooperative Living/November-December 2014 IF YOU G O ... Before you take Route 11 through the and Visitors Bureau (335 Cummings New River Valley region, which runs Street, 276-676-2282, visitabingdon from the Christiansburg area to Pulaski virginia.com). If you’re a cyclist, then and beyond, check out the area online you’ll definitely want to ride the Virginia (www.explorenewrivervalley.com). Then Creeper Trail (www.vacreepertrail.com), stop in at local visitors centers, including though there is plenty to do here for arts the Montgomery County Regional and culture enthusiasts as well. Be sure to Tourism Office (775 Roanoke Street, take in a show at Barter Theatre (127 Suite 2E, 540-394-2120 ext. 4225) in West Main Street, 276-628-3991, www. Christiansburg or the Radford Visitors bartertheatre.com); explore The Arts Center inside the Glencoe Museum Depot (314 Depot Square, 276-628- (600 Unruh Drive, 866-605-6442). 9091, www.abingdonartsdepot.com), If you like antiquing, then be sure to located in an 1890s freight station and visit Antiques on Main (4 West Main featuring the studios and wares of dozens St., 540-381-0539) while in of artists and artisans; visit Heartwood, Christiansburg, and stop in for lunch at Southwest Virginia’s Artisan Gallery the Mockingbird Café (110 West Main (www.myswva.org/heartwood); or take a St., Suite 110, 540-382-3432, road trip on the Countryside Artisan www.mockingbirdcafebakery.com). Trail (www.myswva.org/rtm/trails-and- After a hearty lunch, hit the bike trail at map /countryside-artisan-trail), which will New River Trail State Park (276-699- lead you on an exploration of shops and 6778, www.dcr.virginia.gov/stateparks/ galleries throughout Washington County new-river-trail.shtml), which can be as well as Bristol. accessed in Pulaski via the Dora Trail. For the best eats in town, I highly rec - If you don’t bring your own bike, then ommend 128 Pecan (128 Pecan Street stop in at Pulaski Bikes (20 South SE, 276-698-3159, www.128pecan.com), Washington Ave., 540-922-9119, where I’m sure to eat every time I visit this www.pulaskibikes.com) and rent one. town. Menu favorites include cracker- South of Pulaski, Route 11 joins I-81 crusted trout and chocolate espresso for several miles before returning to two- bread pudding! The Tavern (222 East lane highway in Wytheville . Rest your Main Street, 276-628-1118, www. bike-weary bones in the Main Street abingdontavern.com) is something of an community of Marion at the historic Abingdon institution. It’s one of the oldest General Francis Marion Hotel (107 buildings west of the Blue Ridge and has East Main Street, 276-783-4800, gfm been a tavern since 1779, serving the hotel.com/blackrooster/) with its newly likes of Henry Clay and Andrew Jackson. renovated guest rooms and suites within If you’re a cyclist, you’ll appreciate walking distance of all the downtown’s the ease of access to the Virginia shopping and dining. The onsite Black Creeper Trail afforded by area lodgings, Rooster Restaurant and Lounge will including Creeper’s End Lodging fill you up with southern-style delicacies (121 Railroad Street, 276-525-2031, like pork loin medallions simmered in www.virginiacreepersendlodging The General Francis Marion Hotel on Main apple brandy and cider. abingdonva.com), which is directly adja - Street in Marion, Va. (top) has newly reno - A Virginia Historic Landmark founded cent to the trailhead. Or you can stay vated guest rooms and suites within walk - in 1778, Abingdon is easily one of my at the Inn (150 ing distance of the community’s downtown favorite towns. It’s as picturesque as a West Main Street, 276-628-3161, attractions. Something of an Abingdon postcard with tree-lined streets, bricked www.marthawashingtoninn.com), which institution, the Tavern (middle) is one of the sidewalks, historic buildings all through served as a college starting in 1860 but oldest buildings west of the Blue Ridge and the downtown, and many shops, gal - became a hotel in 1935. The inn offers has been in operation as a tavern since leries, and fine restaurants (some serving a Creeper Trail Express, which shuttles 1779, serving the likes of Henry Clay and farm-to-table cuisine). You can easily you to the bike trail’s southern terminus Andrew Jackson. The Martha Washington spend a long weekend here and never at White Top Mountain and then picks Inn, (bottom) another Abingdon landmark, run out of things to do. Start your explo - you up at the Abingdon trailhead three served as a college starting in 1860 and ration at the Abingdon Convention hours later. n became a hotel in 1935.

34 Cooperative Living/November-December 2014