HOW TO DO

nd big, fat eaches — Colonial mansions with crumbling facades. Mojitoslet aexpert cigars. Revolutionary billboards, salsa and sandy b you’ve seen them show all in you your how to make fantasies. the dream Now a reality... Claire Boobbyer

String fellow: walking past a mural of the Cuban flag in Santiago

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ith its cigar-smoking Precious metal: rebels, sparkling seas, above, sculpture of Che Guevara on vintage vehicles, potent Havana’s Revolution music, and locals who Square; right, classic survive on their wits car on the historic Paseo de Martí and humour, Cuba will almost certainly steal your heart. But like so many seducers, this tropical island, shaded a Socialist red on the map, is complicated. It’s at once gorgeous and falling apart; ridiculously rich in culture, but short on basic goods and common conveniences. (Cuba’s not for you if you need Instagram connection 24/7; or if you don’t handle train cancellations well; or if you come over shaky when you can’t find a breakfast latte with soya milk.) The island’s a little longer than the UK and packs in a lot of encounters and experiences, so you’ll need two weeks to do it justice. For us, that means seeing the Days 1-3 highlights and a bit more: the capital Havana; lush EASY BOOKING Hot-right-now Havana Viñales Valley; Trinidad and Santiago cities; and the Havana is utterly beautiful. Not quite the starlet she once Favourite five the capital’s best , ● La Cocina de Ortíz, Baracoa: ● Baracoando, Baracoa: There’s distant east — jungly Oriente is Cuba’s best-kept secret When it comes to was, perhaps, but her 500-year-old bone structure is still serving fresh seafood platters Ineldis Ortíz cooks exquisitely no better vegan and vegetarian accommodation, Food spots accompanied by an expert wine fresh Baracoa food: red tuna with joint on the island than Aristides and you won’t regret stretching your time. Anxious about you can be there, in primped-up plazas and swanky mansions. The bypassing urbane Santa Clara and coastal Cienfuegos spontaneous — city is Cuba’s political and cultural capital and, more Long gone are the days when list (00 53 7203 8315, otramanera mango sauce; tender wreckfish Smith’s hurricane-wrecked home towns? You’ll get more colonial grandeur and sexier just book your prosaically, has the biggest airport for arrivals. Most ration-book food fuelled lahabana.com; mains about £10). in coconut sauce; and Baracoa (Flor Crombet 9; 00 53 2164 4008; beaches on the route mapped out here. first few nights to flights touch down in time for dinner and cocktails, and Cuba. New business rules chocolate and raisin brownies set vegetarian platters £6). get started. B&Bs, ● Delays and safety concerns make domestic flights indicated by an in the land of rum and sugar, you’d be nuts not to take have revolutionised dining, Restaurant Cuajaní, Viñales: (Rafael Trejo 15; mains about £8). a bad idea and car hire is expensive and convoluted. upside-down advantage. From the airport, Havana is 40 minutes by with smart tables, farm food Outstanding fresh tomatoes, Instead, do as most travellers do and take cross-country blue anchor image taxi (£20) via a flipbook of socialist billboards. Few places and stylish cafes. You’ll goat’s cheese salads, and ● Grados, Havana: Chef Raulito on front doors, coaches or hire a car and driver. Pack patience, flexibility, on Earth offer stays in such splendour for such great value find Cuba’s tastiest food pumpkin and ginger risotto Bazuka has revived forgotten abound on the your sense of humour and your glad rags. Cuba’s island. Go ahead — think Spanish colonial romance meets Art Deco (for in private , — the finest food south of island recipes, such as lamb infectious magic will knock you sideways before you and knock. Cuba , see page 109). Havana is a city on the up, and you’ll known as paladares Havana, in a pretty setting marinated in Pru, an eastern even sip a Mojito. From cutting-edge art and hip- Junky’s offline find its coolest creative types on the rooftop at El del (Carretera El Moncada km 2.2, Cuban herbal brew (Calle E 562, app assists ● swivelling music to wild beaches, colonial hotspots (cuba-junky.com). Frente (O’Reilly 303). Come and dine alfresco, then slip Otra Manera, Havana: This Dos Hermanas; 00 53 5882 between 23 & 25; 00 53 7833 and brilliant B&Bs, here’s how to pack it all in... into speakeasy-feel Cero Habana (Aguiar 209). Prefer > glam converted ’50s home is 8925; mains about £9). 7882; mains about £11; pictured).

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Valley high: Trinidad somewhere more established? Anyone with a guidebook can go further with a curator-guide (Sussette Martínez; taxi for a window onto street life — having first bought Favourite five ● Diablo Tun Tun, Havana: Nueva trova and the Valle de los will know about Ernest Hemingway’s favourite bars. [email protected]; from £30pp per half day), visiting a cigar factory ticket, available from any (£7.50). The singer-songwriter Ray Fernández Ingenios. Opposite, clockwise from top By all means take a stool at his Daiquiri spot, El Floridita artists’ home-studios: maybe see a Cadillac converted H Upmann Factory tour reveals one of the world’s most Music venues brings down the house during his left, musician in (Obispo 557), and drink in the long, classy bar and into a submarine, or a Che Guevara ‘Turin’ shroud. aromatic and elaborate crafts (San Carlos & Peñalver; Thursday matinee (Casa de la Música Santiago; Havana’s live music along with your £4.50 cocktail. But avoid Wherever you’re going, grab a rickshaw-style bicycle mornings only, Mon-Fri). Buy cigars from official The bedrock of the island is its de Miramar, Calle 20, corner of 35). Fábrica de Arte La Bodeguita del Medio (Empedrado 207), which does taxi for speed (from £3). Havana’s almendrón taxi system ‘Habanos’ stores only (on the street, you might get fakes seductive sounds: from jazz, timba Cubano club; Trinidad street scene; Viñales the city’s worst Mojito. — classic cars running fixed routes — has disintegrated made of dried banana). There is a Habanos branch selling (pimped up salsa), rumba and ● La Zorra y el Cuervo, Havana: tobacco fields; The plundered loot of Spain’s Latin American empire somewhat. Now, you’ll pay £4.50-£7.50 for taxis for smokes and rum around the corner, so pick up a Ron politicised nueva trova, to body- A Brit-style red phone-box door leads Mojitos at El del was funnelled through Havana for more than 200 years, journeys of up to 4km. The hop-on-hop-off circulating Santiago, aged 11 or 12 years, while you’re there. shaking reggaeton, with its vulgar to this intimate basement jazz club Frente bar; fishing son off Havana’s Malecón via the so-called treasure fleets. And the silver cascading red tourist bus (£7.50) is for people with plenty of time. If cigars aren’t your bag, try a farm-to-table cooking lyrics, and Afro-Cuban music. The (Calles 23 & O, Vedado; pictured). through the Atlantic-facing city needed protection — with Shimmy along for matinee rumba at tight, sweaty and class at organic paradise Finca Tungasuk (tungasuk.com; best places are in Havana, but there’s forts mostly built by African slaves — to defy those pirates untouristy El Jelengue de Areito (San Miguel 410; £3) £30pp) in buried-in-the-bushes Caimito, 40 minutes top talent in Santiago, too. Matinees run ● Casa de la Trova, Santiago de Cuba: WARNING of the Caribbean. Havana’s wealth was later bolstered in Centro Habana, a dilapidated residential zone. After from Havana. Or make like Rihanna in Havana and hire from about 5pm; late-night acts start Pitch up for old-time son musicians by sugar exports, and profits were invested in handsome dinner, look out for the green light bulb on Calle 11 a Cadillac with driver (malecon663.com; from £23/hr). at 11pm. Prices range from £1 to £7.50. playing matinees; bands get livelier Expect to meet jineteros: hustlers bricks and mortar. Now those Old Havana streets are marking under-the-radar La Casa de la Bombilla Verde, to Explore the two castles defending the Bay of Havana, in the evenings (Heredia 208). trying to make an made for walking, between Unesco-protected Baroque hear live nueva trova music (en-gb.facebook.com/lacasa then motor to the leafy, artsy El Vedado district, home ● Club 1830, Havana: For hot salsa extra buck on churches, bougainvillea-draped portals, lofty mansions, delabombillaverde). Your next address is the city’s Fábrica to wedding-cake mansions, top paladares (private bands, dance to the door of this cars, hotels and muscular fortresses and kerbside cafes. The four main de Arte Cubano (www.fac.cu; £1.50) for challenging restaurants), bars and music venues. After snapping the alfresco seaside club (Malecón & 22). cigars. They’re harmless, and ‘No, plazas — Catedral, Armas, Vieja and San Francisco — are photography, singer-songwriters, avant-garde dance and monumental Plaza de la Revolución, step into Christopher gracias’ should be highlights. Devote time to the plush presidential-palace- the chance to mingle with Cuban entrepreneurs amid Columbus Cemetery (£4) for the largest communion of ● Café Teatro Bertolt Brecht, Havana: deterrent enough. turned-Museum of the Revolution (Refugio 1; £6), which three bars, a restaurant and cigar lounge. Do this lot and marble angels in Latin America (see a husband’s devotion A smokin’ hot basement haunt. Cubans don’t mess with tourists charts Cuba’s history of rebellion. In the Museum of Fine you’ll have captured Cuba’s political, social and cultural embodied in bronze, stone and Lalique glass at Catalina Dedicate Wednesday nights to because the Arts, opposite (www.bellasartes.co.cu; £4), take a guided zeitgeist. You can sleep when you get home. Lasa’s tomb). In the golden hour before sunset, cruise up Robertico Carcassés and fusion punishments tour (£2.50) of the Cuban collection (make for the Take the strain off your feet on your last day in and down Havana’s seaside boulevard, the Malecón, with band Interactivo (Calles 13 & I). are severe. avant-garde and contemporary art floors). Artsy types Havana and make your way through Centro by bicycle- its hymn to fabulous, colourful architectural eclecticism. >

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Clear winner: idyllic Maguana Beach, north of Baracoa

Toast your time in Havana with a Daiquiri at the roof better valley sights than those tipped in the guidebooks palaces, sexy salsa, and coppery horses ridden by mangón partner to approach. If you’re a learner, standby, too. It’s bar of the Kempinski hotel (kempinski.com); you’ll have a on a walk with a guide from the Visitors’ Centre (close to (very good-looking) cowboys trotting through town. the only way to improve and Cubans are accommodating. great view of curlicued motifs on theatres and museums. Hotel Los Jazmines; 8.30am-5pm; £8pp). Otherwise, stroll Víazul’s daily bus from Viñales takes nine-and-a-half Morning light spills over Trinidad in a golden sheen. Partygoers should end the night dancing salsa in front of around a private mogote with farmer Omar from Casa hours (or rent a car; see page 108). But if you’re prepared Photographer Julio Muñoz has been capturing life a live band at alfresco Club 1830 (see page 103). In the Old Omar y Mayra ([email protected]; £8pp), or for a little organised chaos, you can keep it to six or seven there for years. His easy manner and contacts make his SAFETY Town, music-crawl the bars of Calle Obispo: La Lluvia ask your B&B to help you hire horses for a guided ride to hours by taking collective taxis. Vintage vehicles pick up street-photography tour a nuanced introduction beyond de Oro is a winner for its old-time looks and live bands. the unspoilt Valley of Silence (from £4/hr). In town, Patio passengers from Viñales B&Bs and drive them to a the city’s Unesco-protected chocolate-box facade (photo. Cuba is very safe. Lured by the late-night billings at the city’s two Casa de del Decimista, on the main street, regularly hosts the highway restaurant; you could then be shifted to another trinidadphoto.com; £20). Later, climb the observation True, females la Música clubs? Be warned, they can get a bit raunchy. band Sol del Valle — its leader plays the recorder through vehicle and redirected to Trinidad. It sounds like a jumbled tower at the Cantero Palace history museum (Desengaño of all ages (even those his nose. Swap valley sunsets the next day for tangerine- plan, but go with it — you’ll never be stranded in Cuba. 423; £1.50), where a central fountain once sprinkled eau accompanied by Days 4-5 coloured starfish at Cayo Jutías, a sparkling white beach Trinidad was central to Cuba’s 19th-century sugar de cologne for the ladies and gin for society gents. Look men) will receive Verdant Viñales that’s an easy day-trip with one of the travel agencies on boom, and its wealthy sugar barons enshrined egos in out for the faces of Trinidad’s elderly folk exquisitely a deluge of attention via Rise early for Víazul’s 9am coach to Viñales, 180km the small main strip (£16). Or hire a taxi to take you to the stone: palaces embellished with all the finest furniture, carved into abandoned door pieces at the gallery of piropos (chat-up west of Havana. You’ll want as much time as tobacco farm of Hector Luis Prieto. He does a superb tour frescoes and chandeliers money could buy. You can sleep Lázaro Niebla Castro (Real 11). lines). But it’s all allows in the town and its lush valley (for coach and and creole lunch for a bargain £8pp (hectorfinca.com). amid the grandeur at some of the small city’s finest homes benign, mostly accommodation details, see page 108). Unesco-protected The insatiable could squeeze in both by private taxi. (see page 109). The next day, gain full immersion by just Days 8-10 called out in passing Viñales Valley is a vision of velvet-green mountains — wandering. A cluster of music venues, all within a cocktail Sights and salsa in Santiago and never mogotes — rising from palms, tobacco plants and ruddy Days 6-7 stick’s throw of each other, makes flirting with each one Santiago is steeped in history, humidity and a rocking threatening. To red soil tilled by oxen and plough. Besides the country air, Trinidad: colonial splendour a cinch. Top dazzler is Casa de la Trova (Echerri 29; £1), music scene. With African, Haitian and Jamaican roots, deflect attention, don’t counter or its greatest draws are the organic food, Mojitos at sunset, There’s no quick fix to reach Trinidad, but it’s a must-visit a traditional colonial home with live bands and a patio for its vibe is more Caribbean than Havana’s. To get there make eye contact. horse-riding and rock-climbing. And you’ll see much for its pistachio- and cinnamon-coloured homes, dreamy dancing. If you know the moves, wait at the edge for a from Trinidad, don’t spend a day on Víazul’s direct route >

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(12hr 50min); instead take a £30-£35 taxi to Sancti Pep up the package Spíritus (about one hour north) and catch the 3.10pm bus or an overnighter (9.10pm and 1.50am; 10hr 20min). So you’ve booked a ? Don’t pack all the sights into your first day — plan a We know the best day-trips you siesta, breaks on the Casa Granda hotel terrace (iberostar. can take, and how to line them up… com) or coffee at museum cafe Casa Dranguet (facebook. com/pg/CasaDranguet). Explore highlights of the ● From Varadero: There’s really 500-year-old historic core on foot: the first governor’s nada to see in Varadero’s waters, mansion (£1.50) and the Bacardí museum (£1.50), which is why you should take a dive then walk to the Moncada Museum charting Fidel or snorkel trip to the south coast’s Castro’s rise to power (£1.50). Bay of Pigs (below, top), where easy Start the night at funky alfresco chess cafe, Café immersions reveal a huge coral wall Ajedrez (Felix Peña & Enramada), with its nightly live and wrecks of US craft from the 1961 bands, followed by evening ensembles at Casa de la Trova invasion. It’s easiest to sort via your (Heredia 208), and a storming end-of-night salsa shiver at hotel; all offer these . Bar Claqueta (Félix Peña, between San Basilio & Heredia), close to the cathedral. Next day, swap city for country and ● From Cayo Santa María: Head to hire a car and driver through Out of the Box (outofthebox. pretty, colonial Remedios (which zone; from £36pp) or your B&B. Plan to take in glorious hosts a Christmas Eve firework Avenida Manduley mansions in the Vista Alegre district, festival) and Santa Clara, home Fidel Castro’s tomb at magnificent marble Santa Ifigenia to Che Guevara’s tomb and other Cemetery (£2.50), and impressive Unesco-protected El Che sites; transport is complicated, Morro Castle (£4) at the mouth of Santiago Bay. Time so book the hotel tour. your visit for the sunset cannon-firing ceremony. Fancy carnival? Come in July, prepared for stifling temperatures. ● From Gardens of the King: Stay put, and learn to kitesurf at Cayo Days 11-14 Guillermo (below, bottom). The most Baracoa: beautiful beaches experienced instructors work for Baracoa is spellbinding. Some of the world’s smallest havanakiteboarding.com, not SHORTCUT species of bird, frog and bat live here, as does the rainbow- bookable through hotels. Lessons coloured hyper-local natural beauty the polymita snail. start at £60/hr; kit rental from £45. It’s not easy to find These small wonders inhabit the coconut palms, cocoa cultural listings, but these trees, coffee bushes and pine forests of this Atlantic ● From Guardalavaca, north of will help: region. When Christopher Columbus first glimpsed the Holguín: Chirpy Gibara, a weathered suenacubano. wild beaches and green slopes in 1492, he wrote there was com /cartelera/; seaside town 50km west, hides caves lapapeleta.cult.cu; ‘so much beauty that I can find no words to describe it’. for walking and diving. Experienced noticiasde A Víazul bus from Santiago at 7.40am can get you to diver Arturo Rojas offers two dives santiagodecuba. this tropical enclave in time for lunch. Climb the hill to from £85pp, including equipment; com/category/ Hotel El Castillo for lush views of anvil-flat mountain El cartelera- transport extra (facebook.com/pg/ cultural; Yunque, and map out the following days’ plans. For wild AquaCuba; [email protected]). havanaviptours. beach exploration, head south, going off-piste on hired com/13599/ bikes (baracoabikerental.com; £8) or in a cab (£20 return). havana-vip- At Manglito Beach, sink into an Adirondack chair with nightlife-app. a beer, and order fresh seafood from Tato’s food shack (mains about £6). If you’ve swerved the Mojito hangover from dancing salsa at Baracoa’s small Casa de la Trova (Maceo 149), hike up through palms the next day to El Yunque’s summit (£13 with Ecotur at 1511, Ciro Frías 26). The views of the nibbled Atlantic coastline — a jade-green forest hemline against a peacock-blue sea — are awesome. After that you’ll want relaxation. You can find it at Maguana, the cutest beach corner in Cuba, a rugged 22km north of Baracoa. Book your last night or two at Casa Carlos (see page 109), to share a secluded cove with one other house, and splash about in aquamarine sea. Do Sitting pretty: nothing more than order a seafood feast from fisherman- clockwise from top owner Carlos and plot your next holiday in Cuba. left, Havana locals Then grit your teeth, book a cab to Baracoa’s bus station on Plaza de la Catedral; mural (£20), and catch the 1pm coach all the way back to Havana on Santiago de (17hr 30min). (That’s unless you book an open-jaw flight Cuba’s Revolution home with Thomas Cook; it departs from Holguín — Square; roof terrace maybe seven hours’ drive from here; see overleaf.) If you of the Kempinski hotel, Havana; squeezed in a dip in the area’s glassy River of Honey, Viñales Valley legend says you’ll return to Baracoa. You know you will.>

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Key phrase: Must try: Nutty, Must buy: Silky headache. Road signage is atrocious, so TRINIDAD At hacienda Finca Kenia, with a guide-driver, bespoke tours, Quieres bailar? honey-stuffed Selección de if you’re taking the plunge, use detailed expect horses, antiques, fine food and luxury B&B accommodation, Get me there = Wanna dance? cucuruchos Maestros rum offline map Galileo, and look for the and a flourishing garden (fincakenia. costs from £1,716pp, excluding Guía de Carreteras road map in com; doubles from £77, B&B). international flights. Alternatively, offices. For more details, see cuba SANTIAGO With an eye for glorious group- G Adventures travelnetwork.com/car-rental-cuba. Spanish colonial style, Juan Martí runs (gadventures.co.uk) has the 16-day Go independent com or expedia.co.uk. Visa per person as Víazul fares. Private the wonderful Terraza Pavo Royal Cuba on a Shoestring itinerary from Local’s tip Virgin Atlantic flies to Havana from requirements and legal compliance modern taxis (you can hail or use ranks) Where to stay (cubacasas.net/cities/santiago/Juan; £1,149pp, excluding flights. Journey Ariel Causa, Gatwick from £677. Thomas Cook make it complicated to fly via the USA. with seatbelts and air-con are more HAVANA La Loma del doubles from £23, B&B). Latin America (journeylatinamerica. co-founder of restaurant website Airlines flies from Manchester to expensive — Havana to Viñales costs Angel offers sublime romance and BARACOA Rooms at Villa Paradiso co.uk) has a 14-day self-drive holiday and app AlaMesa Varadero from £550 return; and from Get around £60; meter usage is rare. Cars with unrivalled service in Old Havana (villaparadisobaracoa.com; doubles from £2,322pp, B&B, including return Gatwick and Manchester to Holguín Most travellers use punctual cross- drivers can be hired anywhere at short (lomadelangel.com; doubles from from £20, B&B) have panoramic Bay flights, car hire and excursions, and ‘Snack on (near Gibara) from £430, and to Cayo country Víazul coaches (viazul.com) — notice (from about £7.50 an hour in £274, B&B). Economía 156 is an elegant of Honey views. Casa Carlos (airbnb. accommodation in some of Cuba’s malanga Coco (near Cayo Guillermo) from the national bus line Astro doesn’t Havana); ask at your B&B. Don’t hire a Old-Havana townhouse turned into co.uk/rooms/17417994; from £13, best hotels and homestays. (root veg £400. It often works out cheaper to fly accept foreigners. Online tickets can be vintage car for a long journey — they’re a casa particular (economia156.com; sleeping four) is a clapboard cottage fritters) and indirect; you can get Havana returns bought at least seven days before travel uncomfortable and few have air-con. doubles from £108, B&B). on a secret beach. When to go tostones with Air Europa via Madrid (from (Havana to Viñales, for instance, costs Hiring your own car will get you off VINALES Casa MogoteArt is a rural The weather is hot and dry from (plantain £683), Iberia via Madrid (from £563), £9). Multiple collective taxis use the beaten track (nose at the gate to hideaway (airbnb.co.uk/rooms/ Go with the experts November to April. From May, chips). And Air France via Paris (from £674), and anything on wheels — from Ladas to Guantánamo Bay; explore Hershey’s 23166351; doubles from £48, B&B). Havana-based and -run Cuba Private humidity climbs and the rainy season try mamey KLM via Amsterdam (from £674). converted hearses and farm trucks — to Cuban chocolate town), but rental is Casa Deborah y Juan Carlos (airbnb. Travel (cubaprivatetravel.com) has begins. July and August are stiflingly Flying via European hubs only adds a serve the entire country. Driving is fast costly (from £55 a day including co.uk/rooms/16414169; doubles more than 15 years’ experience of hot and are carnival months. The milkshakes, few hours to the flight journey; find and seatbelts are absent. For long insurance and unlimited mileage), from £19, B&B) has garden rooms organising high-quality travel to Cuba. hurricane season runs from June made from deals and compare fares at travelup. routes, prices are generally the same availability an issue and accidents a and is run by an enchanting family. Its two-week, tailor-made holiday to November. local fruit.’

Further information The internet is accessed online provider, by wi-fi scratch cards cubavisas.com, charges (75p-£1.50/hr) available £24, including delivery. from your B&B or, if you Allow a week to apply. speak Spanish, from Cuba is a cash individuals on kerbs and economy and uses streetside chairs (though two currencies: the strictly speaking, it’s not convertible peso for most allowed). Cuba has 3G but transactions (about 80p you’ll need a Cuban SIM; to CUC$1); and the Cuban SCOTT JESSOP SCOTT they’re £30 at Etecsa peso for Havana’s MAP: MAP: offices all over the island, collective taxis and local including £7.50 of calls, snacks (CUP$1 is about data packages and scratch 30p). Take as much cash cards. Buy Cubacel (sterling) as you feel cards for call top-ups comfortable with. ATMs at Etecsas, street kiosks and bureaux de change or online via ding.com. (Cadeca) are widespread, All tourists need a but card withdrawals tourist card, sometimes incur hefty bank charges. erroneously called a visa. On arrival in Havana, Virgin Holidays sells its exchange cash at Cadeca

4CORNERS, ALAMY, AWL IMAGES, GETTY, KATE HOCKENHULL HOCKENHULL KATE GETTY, IMAGES, AWL ALAMY, 4CORNERS, passengers 30-day in Departures. Don’t tourist cards (£15) at bring any cards Gatwick. The cheapest connected to US banks. PHOTOGRAPHS: PHOTOGRAPHS:

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