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West & the Isles of Scilly

Why Go? West Cornwall...... 220 While most visitors head for the tourist honey pots of the St Ives...... 220 north coast, the wild west of Cornwall receives fewer visitors outside the major draws of St Ives and Land’s End. But the The . real beauty of this corner lies off the beaten track: it’s a land Peninsula...... 227 where stone monuments rise up from the hilltops, ancient ...... 235 moorland butts up against gorse-topped cliffs, and forgotten The Lizard...... 245 mine stacks stand out in relief against the skyline. ...... 245 With its sparkling seaside setting and artistic connec- Lizard Point & . tions, the attractions of St Ives are very well-known, and Around...... 247 the town can feel uncomfortably crowded between July and Isles of Scilly ...... 250 September, but time your visit for early spring or autumn and you’ll find things quieter. Similarly, the main beaches St Mary’s...... 251 around Gwithian, and the Lizard can be very busy, but many more remote coves can be reached via the coast path. And for a real escape, the lesser-visited islands of Scilly feel like a whole different world. Best Places to Eat ¨¨Tolcarne Inn (p240) When to Go ¨¨Porthminster Beach Café ¨¨May St Mary’s on the Isles of Scilly hosts the World (p225) Pilot Gig Championships over a weekend in early May. Accommodation is almost impossible to find, so you’ll need ¨¨Gurnard’s Head (p229) to book at least six months’ ahead. ¨¨Ben’s Cornish Kitchen ¨¨ Penzance stages its big summer street celebration (p244) Jun during the : try and visit on Mazey Day if you can, when the whole town turns out to party. ¨¨Dec lights cover the harbour around Mousehole, Best Places to and Penzance’s pagan Montol Festival provides a slightly Stay more alternative view of the festive season. ¨¨Old Coastguard Hotel (p241) ¨¨Artist Residence Penzance (p238) ¨¨Venton Vean (p238) ¨¨Boskerris (p224) - s \ # o e l ck h #\ Trur \ # vern ra th Mawe m d glis ve Ke ou or s St 0 k lf 1 En \ # Co Channe St lm \ # mile He Fa Isles of of Isles 8 \ # \ # 5 æ # # 9 A3 /· ck 's s nryn y Roskilly’s Roskilly’s usel nna Pe ve illy s Farm at Lizard (p247) h Ke Sand Ho Co sk wn \ # Goonhill Do Ro th t (p250) e (p249) Redrut in æ # 7 zard of some Trying #õ gig an evening Watching #

fog- the Sounding 94 Th \ # dgwi Li Po A3 Lizard e 0¸ 0 0 n Ca ve 7 horn inside the historic lighthouse home-made best Cornwall’s at ice-cream Farm 9 on the idyllic race Scilly Point 8 #\ nc n Co # \ # na e tols #\

Ky e He \ # \ # Mullio h æ # allo \ # ool at vy nw re Minack Minack en Pedn Pedn an These These days it’s a blend of boutique chic rt ev Gu eLo P hi odre Po it coastal towns. Historically the town was an was town the Historically towns. coastal reinvent it but harbour, pilchard important stream a after arts the for haven a as itself ed and set painters of sculptors up influential ‘30s. and 1920s the during here studios and old-fashioned seaside. From the harbour, old a maze of cobbled alleys and e rthl Gw &G Towans s Po inhibitions your i) Penwith Moors Penwith # Hayl ç ce s \ #

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