West Cornwall & the Isles of Scilly
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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd West Cornwall & the Isles of Scilly Why Go? West.Cornwall. 220 While most visitors head for the tourist honey pots of the St.Ives. .220 north coast, the wild west of Cornwall receives fewer visitors outside the major draws of St Ives and Land’s End. But the The.Penwith.. real beauty of this corner lies off the beaten track: it’s a land Peninsula. 227 where stone monuments rise up from the hilltops, ancient Penzance. 235 moorland butts up against gorse-topped cliffs, and forgotten The.Lizard. 245 mine stacks stand out in relief against the skyline. Helston. 245 With its sparkling seaside setting and artistic connec- Lizard.Point.&.. tions, the attractions of St Ives are very well-known, and Around. 247 the town can feel uncomfortably crowded between July and Isles.of.Scilly . .250 September, but time your visit for early spring or autumn and you’ll find things quieter. Similarly, the main beaches St.Mary’s. .251 around Gwithian, Sennen and the Lizard can be very busy, but many more remote coves can be reached via the coast path. And for a real escape, the lesser-visited islands of Scilly feel like a whole different world. Best Places to Eat ¨ Tolcarne Inn (p240) When to Go ¨ Porthminster Beach Café ¨ May St Mary’s on the Isles of Scilly hosts the World (p225) Pilot Gig Championships over a weekend in early May. Accommodation is almost impossible to find, so you’ll need ¨ Gurnard’s Head (p229) to book at least six months’ ahead. ¨ Ben’s Cornish Kitchen ¨ Penzance stages its big summer street celebration (p244) Jun during the Golowan Festival: try and visit on Mazey Day if you can, when the whole town turns out to party. ¨ Dec Christmas lights cover the harbour around Mousehole, Best Places to and Penzance’s pagan Montol Festival provides a slightly Stay more alternative view of the festive season. ¨ Old Coastguard Hotel (p241) ¨ Artist Residence Penzance (p238) ¨ Venton Vean (p238) ¨ Boskerris (p224) 220 WEST CORNWALL coastal towns. Historically the town was an important pilchard harbour, but it reinvent- ed itself as a haven for the arts after a stream of influential painters and sculptors set up St Ives POP 9870 studios here during the 1920s and ‘30s. Huddled at the end of a peninsula fringed These days it’s a blend of boutique chic by golden sands and glittering sea, St Ives and old-fashioned seaside. From the old is unquestionably one of Cornwall’s prettiest harbour, a maze of cobbled alleys and Portreath #\ #\ ATLANTIC Truro OCEAN #\ Redruth Ù# St Ives Camborne #\ #1 Bay #\ St Ives ç#Gwithian /· Zennor Tate &Godrevy A39 #\ Men- St Ives Towans #\ Hayle We an-Tol #\ Morvah #\ ä# Penwith #4 /·A30 Penryn St Mawes s Moors #\ #2 #2 T #\ C Botallack Ding Falmouth #\ Penzance Marazion 0¸A394 orn Dong St Just- #] #\ Mine V# St Michael's in-Penwith Helston #\ Mount #\ w Land's Newlyn #3 Newlyn all End School of Art Porthleven #\ #\ Mousehole #\ Helford #\ St Buryan #æ & Loe Pool Treen #\ Lamorna #æ Goonhilly #\ Porthcurno #\ Downs T Gunwalloe St Keverne #\ Pedn h Minack ##ý5 #6 Roskilly's #\ E Theatre Vounder ##æ8 Is Farm Isles of Scilly Mullion #\ #\ Coverack le (22mi)D Cadgwith #\ s Kennack O Isles of Scilly St Martin's The Sands f Lizard Tresco Middle Town Scilly #\ #\ Kynance Lower #\ Cove ##õ7 Housel #\ Town Higher Town Lizard Cove The Town Point Isles of Penzance English W . S Scilly (28mi) Channel t est #9 D I ves St Mary's C Hugh #\ ornwall Town #\ Old Town ATLANTIC St Agnes OCEAN 0 5 km e# 0 10 km 0 2.5 miles 0 5 miles West Cornwall & the Isles of Scilly Highlights 1.Seeing.the.work.of.key. 4.Seeking.out.the.hillforts. 7.Sounding.the.fog- St.Ives.artists.at.the.Tate St and.stone.circles.scattered. horn.inside.the.historic. Ives.(p221) across.the.Penwith Moors. lighthouse.(p247).at.Lizard. 2.Hiking.to.the. (p227) Point picturesque.ruins.of. 5.Watching.a.cliff-top. 8.Trying.some.of. Botallack.and.Ding Dong play.at.the.amazing.Minack Cornwall’s.best.home-made. Mine (p229) Theatre.(p234) ice-cream.at.Roskilly’s 3.Bringing.out.your.inner. 6.Losing.your.inhibitions. Farm.(p249) artist.at.the.Newlyn School (and.your.swimsuit).on. 9.Watching.an.evening.gig. of Art.(p240) the.nudist.beach.of.Pedn race.on.the.idyllic.Isles of Vounder.(p234) Scilly (p250).